the morning wash off with soap and warm water, and apply the following:

 Vaseline, white      20 parts
 Bismuth carbonate     5 parts
 Kaolin                5 parts

Mix, and make an ointment.

III.—Leloir has found the following of service. Clean the affected part
with green soap or with alcohol, and then apply several coats of the
following:

 Acid chrysophanic     15 parts
 Chloroform           100 parts

Mix. Apply with a camel’s-hair pencil.

When the application dries thoroughly, go over it with a layer of
traumaticine. This application will loosen itself in several days, when
the process should be repeated.

IV.—When the skin is only slightly discolored use a pomade of salicylic
acid, or apply the following:

 Acid chrysophanic, from    1 to 4 parts
 Acid salicylic             1 to 2 parts
 Collodion                      40 parts

V.—When there is need for a more complicated treatment, the following
is used:

 (_a_) Corrosive sublimate              1 part
       Orange-flower water          7,500 parts
       Acid, hydrochloric, dilute     500 parts

 (_b_) Bitter almonds               4,500 parts
       Glycerine                    2,500 parts
       Orange-flower water         25,000 parts

Rub up to an emulsion in a porcelain capsule. Filter and add, drop by
drop, and under constant stirring, 5 grams of tincture of benzoin.
Finally mix the two solutions, adding the second to the first.

This preparation is applied with a sponge, on retiring, to the affected
places, and allowed to dry on.

VI.—According to Brocq the following should be penciled over the
affected spots:

 Fresh pure milk                     50 parts
 Glycerine                           30 parts
 Acid, hydrochloric, concentrated     5 parts
 Ammonium chlorate                    3 parts

VII.—Other external remedies that may be used are lactic acid diluted
with 3 volumes of water, applied with a glass rod; dilute nitric acid,
and, finally, peroxide of hydrogen, which last is a very powerful
agent. Should it cause too much inflammation, the latter may be
assuaged by using an ointment of zinc oxide or bismuth subnitrate—or
one may use the following:

 Kaolin                  4 parts
 Vaseline               10 parts
 Glycerine               4 parts
 Magnesium carbonate     2 parts
 Zinc oxide              2 parts

«Freckle Remedies.»—

 I.—Poppy oil               1 part
     Lead acetate            2 parts
     Tincture benzoin        1 part
     Tincture quillaia       5 parts
     Spirit nitrous ether    1 part
     Rose water             95 parts

Saponify the oil with the lead acetate; add the rose water, and follow
with the tinctures.

 II.—Chloral hydrate    2 drachms
      Carbolic acid      1 drachm {241}
      Tincture iodine   60 drops
      Glycerine          1 ounce

Mix and dissolve. Apply with a camel’s-hair pencil at night.

 III.—Distilled vinegar              660 parts
       Lemons, cut in small pieces    135 parts
       Alcohol, 85 per cent            88 parts
       Lavender oil                    23 parts
       Water                           88 parts
       Citron oil                       6 parts

This mixture is allowed to stand for 3 or 4 days in the sun and
filtered. Coat, by means of a sponge before retiring, the places of the
skin where the freckles are and allow to dry.

«Freckles and Liver Spots.»—Modern dermatological methods of treating
freckles and liver spots are based partly on remedies that cause
desquamation and those that depigmentate (or destroy or neutralize
pigmentation). Both methods may be distinguished in respect to their
effects and mode of using into the following: The active ingredients of
the desquamative pastes are reductives which promote the formation of
epithelium and hence expedite desquamation.

There are many such methods, and especially to be mentioned is that of
Unna, who uses resorcin for the purpose. Lassar makes use of a paste of
naphthol and sulphur.

«Sunburn Remedies.»—

 I.—Zinc sulphocarbolate     1 part
     Glycerine.              20 parts
     Rose water              70 parts
     Alcohol, 90 per cent     8 parts
     Cologne water            1 part
     Spirit of camphor        1 part

 II.—Borax             4 parts
 Potassium chlorate     2 parts
 Glycerine             10 parts
 Alcohol                4 parts
 Rose water to make    90 parts

 III.—Citric acid             2 drachms
 Ferrous sulphate (cryst.)    18 grains
 Camphor                       2 grains
 Elder-flower water            3 fluidounces

 IV.—Potassium carbonate     3 parts
 Sodium chloride              2 parts
 Orange-flower water         15 parts
 Rose water                  65 parts

 V.—Boroglycerine, 50 per cent    1 part
 Ointment of rose water            9 parts

 VI.—Sodium bicarbonate      1 part
 Ointment of rose water       7 parts

 VII.—Bicarbonate of soda            2 drachms
 Powdered borax                       1 drachm
 Compound tincture of lavender    1 1/2 drachms
 Glycerine                            1 ounce
 Rose water                           4 ounces

Dissolve the soda and borax in the glycerine and rose water, and add
the tincture. Apply with a small piece of sponge 2 or 3 times a day.
Then gently dry by dabbing with a soft towel.

 VIII.—Quince seeds      2 drachms
 Distilled water         10 ounces
 Glycerine                2 ounces
 Alcohol, 94 per cent     1 ounce
 Rose water               2 ounces

Boil the seeds in the water for 10 minutes, then strain off the liquid,
and when cold add to it the glycerine, alcohol, and rose water.

 IX.—White soft soap    2 1/2 drachms
      Glycerine          1 1/2 drachms
      Almond oil            11 drachms

Well mix the glycerine and soap in a mortar, and very gradually add the
oil, stirring constantly until perfectly mixed.

 X.—Subnitrate of bismuth    1 1/2 drachms
     Powdered French chalk       30 grains
     Glycerine                    2 drachms
     Rose water               1 1/2 ounces

Mix the powders, and rub down carefully with the glycerine; then add
the rose water. Shake the bottle before use.

 XI.—Glycerine cream             2 drachms
      Jordan almonds              4 drachms
      Rose water                  5 ounces
      Essential oil of almonds    3 drops

Blanch the almonds, and then dry and beat them up into a perfectly
smooth paste; then mix in the glycerine cream and essential oil.
Gradually add the rose water, stirring well after each addition; then
strain through muslin.

«Tan and Freckle Lotion.»—

Solution A:

Potassium iodide, iodine, glycerine, and infusion rose.

Dissolve the potassium iodide in a {242} small quantity of the infusion
and a drachm of the glycerine; with this fluid moisten the iodine in
a glass of water and rub it down, gradually adding more liquid, until
complete solution has been obtained; then stir in the remainder of the
ingredients, and bottle the mixture.

Solution B:

Sodium thiosulphate and rose water. With a small camel’s-hair pencil
or piece of fine sponge apply a little of solution A to the tanned or
freckled surface, until a slight or tolerably uniform brownish yellow
skin has been produced. At the expiration of 15 or 20 minutes moisten a
piece of cambric, lint, or soft rag with B and lay it upon the affected
part, removing, squeezing away the liquid, soaking it afresh, and again
applying until the iodine stain has disappeared. Repeat the process
thrice daily, but diminish the frequency of application if tenderness
be produced.

«A Cure for Tan.»—Bichloride of mercury, in coarse powder, 10 grains;
distilled water, 1 pint. Agitate the two together until a complete
solution is obtained. Add 1/2 ounce of glycerine. Apply with a small
sponge as often as agreeable. This is not strong enough to blister
and skin the face in average cases. It may be increased or reduced
in strength by adding to or taking from the amount of bichloride of
mercury. Do not forget that this last ingredient is a powerful poison
and should be kept out of the reach of children and ignorant persons.

«Improved Carron Oil.»—Superior to the old and more suitable. A
desirable preparation for burns, tan, freckle, sunburn, scalds,
abrasions, or lung affections. Does not oxidize so quickly or dry up so
rapidly and less liable to rancidity.

 Linseed oil          2 ounces
 Limewater            2 ounces
 Paraffine, liquid    1 ounce

Mix the linseed oil and water, and add the paraffine. Shake well before
using.

«LIVER SPOTS.»

 I.—Corrosive sublimate     1 part
     White sugar           190 parts
     White of egg           34 parts
     Lemon juice           275 parts
     Water to make       2,500 parts

Mix the sublimate, sugar, and albumen intimately, then add the lemon
juice and water. Dissolve, shake well, and after standing an hour,
filter. Apply in the morning after the usual ablutions, and let dry on
the face.

II.—Bichloride of mercury, in coarse powder, 8 grains; witch-hazel, 2
ounces; rose water, 2 ounces.

Agitate until a solution is obtained. Mop over the affected parts. Keep
out of the way of ignorant persons and children.

«TOILET POWDERS:»

«Almond Powders for the Toilet.»—

 I.—Almond meal    6,000 parts
     Bran meal      3,000 parts
     Soap powder      600 parts
     Bergamot oil      50 parts
     Lemon oil         15 parts
     Clove oil         15 parts
     Neroli oil         6 parts

 II.—Almond meal       7,000 parts
      Bran meal         2,000 parts
      Violet root         900 parts
      Borax               350 parts
      Bitter almond oil    18 parts
      Palmarosa oil        36 parts
      Bergamot oil         10 parts

 III.—Almond meal       3,000 parts
       Bran meal         3,000 parts
       Wheat flour       3,000 parts
       Sand                100 parts
       Lemon oil            40 parts
       Bitter almond oil    10 parts

«Bath Powder.»—

 Borax                 4 ounces
 Salicylic acid        1 drachm
 Extract of cassia     1 drachm
 Extract of jasmine    1 drachm
 Oil of lavender      20 minims

Rub the oil and extracts with the borax and salicylic acid until the
alcohol has evaporated. Use a heaping teaspoonful to the body bath.

«Brunette or Rachelle.»—

 Base                         9 pounds
 Powdered Florentine orris    1 pound
 Perfume the same.
 Powdered yellow ocher        (av.) 3 ounces 120 grains
 Carmine No. 40               60 grains

Rub down the carmine and ocher with alcohol in a mortar, and spread on
glass to dry; then mix and sift.

«Violet Poudre de Riz.»—

 I.—Cornstarch             7 pounds
     Rice flour             1 pound
     Powdered talc          1 pound
     Powdered orris root    1 pound
     Extract of cassia      3 ounces
     Extract of jasmine     1 ounce

{243}

II.—Cheaper.

 Potato starch        8 pounds
 Powdered talc        1 pound
 Powdered orris       1 pound
 Extract of cassia    3 ounces

«Barber’s Powder.»—

 Cornstarch            5 pounds
 Precipitated chalk    3 pounds
 Powdered talc         2 pounds
 Oil of neroli         1 drachm
 Oil of cedrat         1 drachm
 Oil of orange         2 drachms
 Extract of jasmine    1 ounce

«Rose Poudre de Riz.»—

 I.—Cornstarch               9 pounds
     Powdered talc            1 pound
     Oil of rose          1 1/4 drachms
     Extract of jasmine       6 drachms

 II.—Potato starch           9 pounds
      Powdered talc           1 pound
      Oil of rose           1/2 drachm
      Extract of jasmine    1/2 ounce

«Ideal Cosmetic Powder.»—The following combines the best qualities that
a powder for the skin should have:

 Zinc, white                         50 parts
 Calcium carbonate, precipitated    300 parts
 Steatite, best white                50 parts
 Starch, wheat, or rice             100 parts
 Extract white rose, triple           3 parts
 Extract jasmine, triple              3 parts
 Extract orange flower, triple        3 parts
 Extract of cassia, triple            3 parts
 Tincture of myrrh                    1 part

Powder the solids and mix thoroughly by repeated siftings.

«Flesh Face Powder.»—

 Base                          9 pounds
 Powdered Florentine orris     1 pound
 Carmine No. 40              250 grains
 Extract of jasmine          100 minims
 Oil of neroli                20 minims
 Vanillin                      5 grains
 Artificial musk              30 grains
 White heliotropin            30 grains
 Coumarin                      1 grain

Rub the carmine with a portion of the base and alcohol in a mortar,
mixing the perfume the same way in another large mortar, and adding the
orris. Mix and sift all until specks of carmine disappear on rubbing.

«White Face Powder.»—

 Base                         9 pounds
 Powdered Florentine orris    1 pound

Perfume the same. Mix and sift.

«Talcum Powders.»—Talc, when used as a toilet powder should be in a
state of very fine division. Antiseptics are sometimes added in small
proportion, but these are presumably of little or no value in the
quantity allowable, and may prove irritating. For general use, at all
events, the talcum alone is the best and the safest. As a perfume, rose
oil may be employed, but on account of its cost, rose geranium oil
is probably more frequently used. A satisfactory proportion is 1/2
drachm of the oil to a pound of the powder. In order that the perfume
may be thoroughly disseminated throughout the powder, the oil should
be triturated first with a small portion of it; this should then be
further triturated with a larger portion, and, if the quantity operated
on be large, the final mixing may be effected by sifting. Many odors
besides that of rose would be suitable for a toilet powder. Ylang-ylang
would doubtless prove very attractive, but expensive.

The following formulas for other varieties of the powder may prove
useful:

Violet Talc.—

 I.—Powdered talc          14 ounces
     Powdered orris root     2 ounces
     Extract of cassia     1/2 ounce
     Extract of jasmine    1/4 ounce

Rose Talc.—

 II.—Powdered talc          5 pounds
      Oil of rose          1/2 drachm
      Extract of jasmine     4 ounces

Tea-Rose Talc.—

 III.—Powdered talc         5 pounds
       Oil of rose          50 drops
       Oil of wintergreen    4 drops
       Extract of jasmine    2 ounces

Borated Apple Blossom.—

 IV.—Powdered talc             22 pounds
      Magnesium carbonate    2 3/4 pounds
      Powdered boric acid        1 pound

Mix.

 Carnation pink blossom (Schimmel’s)    2 ounces
 Extract of trefle                      2 drachms

To 12 drachms of this mixture add:

 Neroli         1 drachm
 Vanillin     1/2 drachm
 Alcohol to     3 ounces

Sufficient for 25 pounds. {244}

 V.—Talcum             8 ounces
 Starch                 8 ounces
 Oil of neroli         10 drops
 Oil of ylang-ylang     5 drops

 VI.—Talcum           12 ounces
 Starch                 4 ounces
 Orris root             2 ounces
 Oil of bergamot       12 drops

 VII.—Talcum          14 ounces
 Starch                 2 ounces
 Lanolin              1/2 ounce
 Oil of rose           10 drops
 Oil of neroli          5 drops

«TOILET VINEGARS:»

«Pumillo Toilet Vinegar.»—

 Alcohol, 80 per cent    1,600 parts
 Vinegar, 10 per cent      840 parts
 Oil of pinu spumillo       44 parts
 Oil of lavender             4 parts
 Oil of lemon                2 parts
 Oil of bergamot             2 parts

Dissolve the oils in the alcohol, add the vinegar, let stand for a week
and filter.

«Vinaigre Rouge.»—

 Acetic acid               24 parts
 Alum                       3 parts
 Peru balsam                1 part
 Carmine, No. 40           12 parts
 Ammonia water              6 parts
 Rose water, distilled    575 parts
 Alcohol                1,250 parts

Dissolve the balsam of Peru in the alcohol, and the alum in the rose
water. Mix the two solutions, add the acetic acid, and let stand
overnight. Dissolve the carmine in the ammonia water and add to
mixture. Shake thoroughly, let stand for a few minutes, then decant.

«TOILET WATERS:»

«“Beauty Water.”»—

 Fresh egg albumen    500 parts
 Alcohol              125 parts
 Lemon oil              2 parts
 Lavender oil           2 parts
 Oil of thyme           2 parts

Mix the ingredients well together. When first mixed the liquid becomes
flocculent, but after standing for 2 or 3 days clears up—sometimes
becomes perfectly clear, and may be decanted. It forms a light,
amber-colored liquid that remains clear for months.

At night, before retiring, pour about a teaspoonful of the water in the
palm of the hand, and rub it over the face and neck, letting it dry on.
In the morning, about an hour before the bath, repeat the operation,
also letting the liquid dry on the skin. The regular use of this
preparation for 4 weeks will give the skin an extraordinary fineness,
clearness, and freshness.

«Rottmanner’s Beauty Water.»—Koller says that this preparation consists
of 1 part of camphor, 5 parts of milk of sulphur, and 50 parts of rose
water.

«Birch Waters.»—Birch water, which has many cosmetic applications,
especially as a hair wash, or an ingredient in hair washes, may be
prepared as follows:

 I.—Alcohol, 96 per cent       3,500 parts
     Water                        700 parts
     Potash soap                  200 parts
     Glycerine                    150 parts
     Oil of birch buds             50 parts
     Essence of spring flowers    100 parts
     Chlorophyll, quantity sufficient to color.

Mix the water with 700 parts of the alcohol, and in the mixture
dissolve the soap. Add the essence of spring flowers and birch oil to
the remainder of the alcohol, mix well, and to the mixture add, little
by little, and with constant agitation, the soap mixture. Finally,
add the glycerine, mix thoroughly, and set aside for 8 days, filter
and color the filtrate with chlorophyll, to which is added a little
tincture of saffron. To use, add an equal volume of water to produce a
lather.

 II.—Alcohol, 96 per cent    2,000 parts
      Water                     500 parts
      Tincture of cantharides    25 parts
      Salicylic acid             25 parts
      Glycerine                 100 parts
      Oil of birch buds          40 parts
      Bergamot oil               30 parts
      Geranium oil                5 parts

Dissolve the oils in the alcohol, add the acid and tincture of
cantharides; mix the water and glycerine and add, and, finally, color
as before.

 III.—Alcohol        30,000 parts
       Birch juice     3,000 parts
       Glycerine       1,000 parts
       Bergamot oil       90 parts
       Vanillin           10 parts
       Geranium oil       50 parts
       Water          14,000 parts

 IV.—Alcohol         40,000 parts
      Oil of birch       150 parts
      Bergamot oil       100 parts
      Lemon oil           50 parts {245}
      Palmarosa oil      100 parts
      Glycerine        2,000 parts
      Borax              150 parts
      Water           20,000 parts

«Violet Ammonia Water.»—Most preparations of this character consist
of either coarsely powdered ammonium carbonate, with or without the
addition of ammonia water, or of a coarsely powdered mixture, which
slowly evolves the odor of ammonia, the whole being perfumed by the
addition of volatile oil, pomade essences, or handkerchief extract. The
following are typical formulas:

I.—Moisten coarsely powdered ammonium carbonate, contained in a
suitable bottle, with a mixture of concentrated tincture of orris root,
2 1/2 ounces; aromatic spirit of ammonia, 1 drachm; violet extract, 3
drachms.

II.—Fill suitable bottles with coarsely powdered ammonium carbonate and
add to the salt as much of the following solution as it will absorb:
Oil of orris, 5 minims; oil of lavender flowers, 10 minims; violet
extract, 30 minims; stronger water of ammonia, 2 fluidounces.

III.—The following is a formula for a liquid preparation: Extract
violet, 8 fluidrachms; extract cassia, 8 fluidrachms; spirit of rose,
4 fluidrachms; tincture of orris, 4 fluidrachms; cologne spirit, 1
pint; spirit of ammonia, 1 ounce. Spirit of ionone may be used instead
of extract of violet.

«Violet Witch-Hazel.»—

 Spirit of ionone                                  1/2 drachm
 Rose water                                          6 ounces
 Distilled extract of witch-hazel enough to make    16 ounces

«Cotton»

«BLEACHING OF COTTON:»

I.—Bleaching by Steaming.—The singed and washed cotton goods are passed
through hydrochloric acid of 2° Bé. Leave them in heaps during 1 hour,
wash, pass through sodium hypochlorite of 10° Bé. diluted with 10 times
the volume of water. Let the pieces lie in heaps for 1 hour, wash, pass
through caustic soda lye of 38° Bé. diluted with 8 times its volume
of water, steam, put again through sodium chloride, wash, acidulate
slightly with hydrochloric acid, wash and dry. Should the whiteness not
be sufficient, repeat the operations.

II.—Bleaching with Calcium Sulphite.—The cotton goods are impregnated
with 1 part, by weight, of water, 1 part of caustic lime, and 1/2
part of bisulphite of 40° Bé.; next steamed during 1–2 hours at a
pressure of 1/2 atmosphere, washed, acidulated, washed and dried.
The result is as white a fabric as by the old method with caustic
lime, soda, and calcium chloride. The bisulphite may also be replaced
by calcium hydrosulphite, and, instead of steaming, the fabric may be
boiled for several hours with calcium sulphite.

III.—Bleaching of Vegetable Fibers with Hydrogen Peroxide.—Pass the
pieces through a solution containing caustic soda, soap, hydrogen
peroxide, and burnt magnesia. The pieces are piled in heaps on
carriages; the latter are shoved into the well-known apparatus of
Mather & Platt (kier), and the liquid is pumped on for 6 hours, at a
pressure of 2/3 atmosphere. Next wash, acidulate, wash and dry. The
bleaching may also be done on an ordinary reeling vat. For 5 pieces are
needed about 1,000 parts, by weight, of water; 10 parts, by weight,
of solid caustic soda; 1 part of burnt magnesia; 30 parts, by weight,
of hydrogen peroxide. After 3–4 hours’ boiling, wash, acidulate, wash
and dry. The bleaching may also be performed by passing through barium
peroxide, then through sulphuric acid or hydrochloric acid, and next
through soda lye. It is practicable also to commence with the latter
and finally give a treatment with hydrogen peroxide.

The whiteness obtained by the above process is handsomer than that
produced by the old method with hypochlorites, and the fabric is
weakened to a less extent.

«TESTS FOR COTTON.»

I.—Cotton, when freed from extraneous matter by boiling with potash,
and afterwards with hydrochloric acid, yields pure cellulose or
absorbent cotton, which, according to the U. S. P., is soluble in
copper ammonium sulphate solution. The B. P. is more specific and
states that cotton is soluble in a concentrated solution of copper
ammonium sulphate. The standard test solution (B. P.) is made by
dissolving 10 parts of copper sulphate in 160 parts of distilled
water, and cautiously adding solution of ammonia to the liquid until
the precipitate first formed is nearly dissolved. The product is
then filtered and the filtrate made up to 200 parts with distilled
{246} water. The concentrated solution is prepared by using a smaller
quantity of distilled water.

II.—Schweitzer’s reagent for textile fibers and cellulose is made
by dissolving 10 parts of copper sulphate in 100 parts of water and
adding a solution of 5 parts of potassium hydrate in 50 parts of water;
then wash the precipitate and dissolve in 20 per cent ammonia until
saturated. This solution dissolves cotton, linen, and silk, but not
wool. The reagent is said to be especially useful in microscopy, as it
rapidly dissolves cellulose, but has no action on lignin.

III.—Jandrier’s Test for Cotton in Woolen Fabrics.—Wash the sample of
fabric and treat with sulphuric acid (20 Bé.) for half an hour on the
water bath. To 100 to 200 parts of this solution add 1 part resorcin,
and overlay on concentrated sulphuric acid free from nitrous products.
The heat developed is sufficient to give a color at the contact point
of the liquids, but intensity of color may be increased by slightly
heating. If the product resulting from treating the cotton is made
up 1 in 1,000, resorcin will give an orange color; alphanaphtol a
purple; gallic acid a green gradually becoming violet down in the acid;
hydroquinone or pyrogallol a brown; morphine or codeine, a lavender;
thymol or menthol a pink. Cotton may be detected in colored goods,
using boneblack to decolorize the solution, if necessary.

IV.—Overbeck’s test for cotton in woolen consists in soaking the fabric
in an aqueous solution of alloxantine (1 in 10), and after drying
expose to ammonia vapor and rinse in water. Woolen material is colored
crimson, cotton remains blue.

V.—Liebermann’s Test.—Dye the fabric for half an hour in fuchsine
solution rendered light yellow by caustic soda solution and then washed
with water—silk is colored dark red; wool, light red; flax, pink; and
cotton remains colorless.

To Distinguish Cotton from Linen.—Take a sample about an inch and
a half square of the cloth to be tested and plunge it into a tepid
alcoholic solution of cyanine. After the coloring matter has been
absorbed by the fiber, rinse it in water and then plunge into dilute
sulphuric acid. If it is of cotton the sample will be almost completely
bleached, while linen preserves the blue color almost unchanged. If the
sample be then plunged in ammonia, the blue will be strongly reinforced.

«Aromatic Cotton.»—Aromatic cotton is produced as follows: Mix camphor,
5 parts; pine-leaf oil, 5 parts; clove oil, 5 parts; spirit of wine (90
per cent), 80 parts; and distribute evenly on cotton, 500 parts, by
means of an atomizer. The cotton is left pressed together in a tightly
closed tin vessel for a few days.

«Cotton Degreasing.»—Cotton waste, in a greasy condition, is placed
in an acid-proof apparatus, where it is simultaneously freed from
grease, etc., and prepared for bleaching by the following process,
which is performed without the waste being removed from the apparatus:
(1) treatment with a solvent, such as benzine; (2) steaming, for the
purpose of vaporizing and expelling from the cotton waste the solvent
still remaining in it after as much as possible of this has been
recovered by draining; (3) treatment with a mineral acid; (4) boiling
with an alkali lye; (5) washing with water.

«COTTONSEED HULLS AS STOCK FOOD.»

Cottonseed hulls or other material containing fiber difficult of
digestion are thoroughly mixed with about 5 per cent of their weight
of hydrochloric acid (specific gravity, 1.16), and heated in a closed
vessel, provided with a stirrer, to a temperature of 212° to 300° F.
The amount of acid to be added depends on the material employed and
on the duration of the heating. By heating for 30 minutes the above
percentage of acid is required, but the quantity may be reduced if the
heating is prolonged. After heating, the substance is ground and at the
same time mixed with some basic substances such as sodium carbonate,
chalk, cottonseed kernel meal, etc., to neutralize the acid. During
the heating, the acid vapors coming from the mixture may be led into a
second quantity of material contained in a separate vessel, air being
drawn through both vessels to facilitate the removal of the acid vapors.

COTTONSEED OIL: See Oil.

COTTONSEED OIL IN FOOD, TESTS FOR: See Foods.

COTTONSEED OIL IN LARD, DETECTION OF: See Foods and Lard.

COUGH CANDY: See Confectionery.

COUGH MIXTURES FOR CATTLE: See Veterinary Formulas. {247}

COUGH MIXTURES AND REMEDIES: See Cold and Cough Mixtures.

«Court Plasters»

(See also Plasters.)

«Liquid Court Plaster.»—I.—If soluble guncotton is dissolved in acetone
in the proportion of about 1 part, by weight, of the former to 35 or
40 parts, by volume, of the latter, and half a part each of castor oil
and glycerine be added, a colorless, elastic, and flexible film will
form on the skin wherever it is applied. Unlike ordinary collodion it
will not be likely to dry and peel off. If tinted very slightly with
alkanet and saffron it can be made to assume the color of the skin so
that when applied it is scarcely observable. A mixture of warm solution
of sodium silicate and casein, about 9 parts of the former to 1 part of
the latter, gelatinizes and forms a sort of liquid court plaster.

II.—In order to make liquid court plaster flexible, collodion, U. S.
P., is the best liquid that can possibly be recommended. It may be made
by weighing successively into a tarred bottle:

 Collodion             4 av. ounces
 Canada turpentine    95 grains
 Castor oil           57 grains

Before applying, the skin should be perfectly dry; each application or
layer should be permitted to harden. Three or four coats are usually
sufficient.

III.—Procure an ounce bottle and fill it three-fourths full of flexible
collodion, and fill up with ether. Apply to cuts, bruises, etc., and it
protects them and will not wash off. If the ether evaporates, leaving
it too thick for use, have more ether put in to liquefy it. It is a
good thing to have in the house and in the tool chest.

COW DISEASES AND THEIR REMEDIES: See Veterinary Formulas.

CRAYONS: See Pencils.

«CRAYONS FOR GRAINING AND MARBLING.»

Heat 4 parts of water and 1 part of white wax over a fire until the
wax has completely dissolved. Stir in 1 part of purified potash. When
an intimate combination has taken place, allow to cool and add a
proportionate quantity of gum arabic. With this mixture the desired
colors are ground thick enough so that they can be conveniently rolled
into a pencil with chalk. The desired shades must be composed on the
grinding slab as they are wanted, and must not be simply left in their
natural tone. Use, for instance, umber, Vandyke brown, and white lead
for oak; umber alone would be too dark for walnut use. All the earth
colors can be conveniently worked up. It is best to prepare 2 or 3
crayons of each set, mixing the first a little lighter by the addition
of white lead and leaving the others a little darker. The pencils
should be kept in a dry place and are more suitable for graining and
marbling than brushes, since they can be used with either oil or water.

CRAYONS FOR WRITING ON GLASS: See Etching, and Glass.

«Cream»

(See also Milk.)

«Whipped Cream.»—There are many ways to whip cream. The following is
very highly indorsed: Keep the cream on ice until ready to whip. Take
2 earthen vessels about 6 inches in diameter. Into 1 bowl put 1 pint
of rich sweet cream, 2 teaspoonfuls powdered sugar, and 5 drops of best
vanilla extract. Add the white of 1 egg and beat with large egg beater
or use whipping apparatus until 2 inches of froth has formed; skim off
the froth into the other vessel and so proceed whipping and skimming
until all the cream in the first vessel has been exhausted. The whipped
cream will stand up all day and should be let stand in the vessel on
ice.

Special machines have been constructed for whipping cream, but most
dispensers prepare it with an ordinary egg beater. Genuine whipped
cream is nothing other than pure cream into which air has been forced
by the action of the different apparatus manufactured for the purpose;
care must, however, be exercised in order that butter is not produced
instead of whipped cream. To avoid this the temperature of the cream
must be kept at a low degree and the whipping must not be too violent
or prolonged; hence the following rules must be observed in order to
produce the desired result: {248}

1. Secure pure cream and as fresh as possible.

2. Surround the bowl in which the cream is being whipped with cracked
ice, and perform the operation in a cool place.

3. As rapidly as the whipped cream arises, skim it off and place it in
another bowl, likewise surrounded with ice.

4. Do not whip the cream too long or too violently.

5. The downward motion of the beater should be more forcible than the
upward, as the first has a tendency to force the air into the cream,
while the second, on the contrary, tends to expel it.

6. A little powdered sugar should be added to the cream after it is
whipped, in order to sweeten it.

7. Make whipped cream in small quantities and keep it on ice.

I.—Cummins’s Whipped Cream.—Place 12 ounces of rich cream on the ice
for about 1 hour; then with a whipper beat to a consistency that will
withstand its own weight.

II.—Eberle’s Whipped Cream.—Take a pint of fresh, sweet cream, which
has been chilled by being placed on the ice, add to it a heaping
tablespoonful of powdered sugar and 2 ounces of a solution of gelatin
(a spoonful dissolved in 2 ounces of water), whip slowly for a minute
or two until a heavy froth gathers on top. Skim off the dense froth,
and put in container for counter use; continue this until you have
frothed all that is possible.

III.—Foy’s Whipped Cream.—Use only pure cream; have it ice cold, and
in a convenient dish for whipping with a wire whipper. A clear, easy,
quick, and convenient way is to use a beater. Fill about one-half full
of cream, and beat vigorously for 2 or 3 minutes; a little powdered
sugar may be added before beating. The cream may be left in the beater,
and placed on ice.

IV.—American Soda Fountain Company’s Whipped Cream.—Take 2 earthen
bowls and 2 tin pans, each 6 or 8 inches greater in diameter than the
bowls; place a bowl in each pan, surround it with broken ice, put the
cream to be whipped in 1 bowl, and whip it with a whipped cream churn.
The cream should be pure and rich, and neither sugar nor gelatin should
be added to it. As the whipped cream rises and fills the bowl, remove
the churn, and skim off the whipped cream into the other bowl.

The philosophy of the process is that the churn drives air into the
cream, and blows an infinity of tiny bubbles, which forms the whipped
cream; therefore, in churning, raise the dasher gently and slowly,
and bring it down quickly and forcibly. When the second bowl is full
of whipped cream, pour off the liquid cream, which has settled to the
bottom, into the first bowl, and whip it again. Keep the whipped cream
on ice.

The addition of an even teaspoonful of salt to 1 quart of sweet cream,
before whipping, will make it whip up very readily and stiff, and stand
up much longer and better.

«CRESOL EMULSION.»

One of the best starting points for the preparation is the “creosote”
obtained from blast furnaces, which is rich in cresols and contains
comparatively little phenols. The proportions used are: Creosote, 30
parts; soft soap, 10 parts; and solution of soda (10 per cent), 30
parts. Boil the ingredients together for an hour, then place aside to
settle. The dark fluid is afterwards drained from any oily portion
floating upon the top.

CREAM, COLD: See Cosmetics.

CREAMS FOR THE FACE AND SKIN: See Cosmetics.

CREOSOTE SOAP: See Soap.

CROCKERY: See Ceramics.

CROCKERY CEMENTS: See Adhesives.

«CROCUS.»

The substance known as “crocus,” which is so exceedingly useful as
a polishing medium for steel, etc., may be very generally obtained
in the cinders produced from coal containing iron. It will be easily
recognized by its rusty color, and should be collected and reduced to
a powder for future use. Steel burnishers may be brought to a high
state of polish with this substance by rubbing them upon a buff made of
soldiers’ belt or hard wood. After this operation, the burnisher should
be rubbed on a second buff charged with jewelers’ rouge.

CRYSTAL CEMENTS FOR REUNITING BROKEN PIECES: See Adhesives, under
Cements. {249}

CRYSTALLIZATION, ORNAMENTAL: See Gardens, Chemical.

CUCUMBER ESSENCE: See Essences and Extracts.

CUCUMBER JELLY, JUICE, AND MILK: See Cosmetics.

CURAÇOA CORDIAL: See Wines and Liquors.

CURTAINS, COLORING OF: See Laundry Preparations.

CURRY POWDER: See Condiments.

«CUSTARD POWDER:»

 Corn flour         7 pounds
 Arrowroot          8 pounds
 Oil of almond     20 drops
 Oil of nutmegs    10 drops
 Tincture of saffron to color.

Mix the tincture with a little of the mixed flours; then add the
essential oils and make into a paste; dry this until it can be reduced
to a powder, and then mix all the ingredients by sifting several times
through a fine hair sieve.

CUTLERY CEMENTS: See Adhesives.

CYLINDER OIL: See Lubricants.

CYMBAL METAL: See Alloys.

«Damaskeening»

Damaskeening, practiced from most ancient times, consists in
ornamentally inlaying one metal with another, followed usually by
polishing. Generally gold or silver is employed for inlaying. The
article to be decorated by damaskeening is usually of iron (steel) or
copper; in Oriental (especially Japanese) work, also frequently of
bronze, which has been blackened, or, at least, darkened, so that the
damaskeening is effectively set off from the ground. If the design
consists of lines, the grooves are dug out with the graver in such
a manner that they are wider at the bottom, so as to hold the metal
forced in. Next, the gold or silver pieces suitably formed are laid on
top and hammered in so as to fill up the opening. Finally the surface
is gone over again, so that the surface of the inlay is perfectly
even with the rest. If the inlays, however, are not in the form of
lines, but are composed of larger pieces of certain outlines, they are
sometimes allowed to project beyond the surface of the metal decorated.
At times there are inlays again in the raised portions of another
metal; thus, Japanese bronze articles often contain figures of raised
gold inlaid with silver.

Owing to the high value which damaskeening imparts to articles
artistically decorated, many attempts have been made to obtain similar
effects in a cheaper manner. One is electro-etching, described further
on. Another process for the wholesale manufacture of objects closely
resembling damaskeened work is the following: By means of a steel
punch, on which the decorations to be produced project in relief, the
designs are stamped by means of a drop hammer or a stamping press into
gold plated or silver plated sheet metal on the side which is to show
the damaskeening, finally grinding off the surface, so that the sunken
portions are again level. Naturally, the stamped portion, as long as
the depth of the stamping is at least equal to the thickness of the
precious metal on top, will appear inlaid.

It is believed that much of the early damaskeening was done by welding
together iron and either a steel or an impure or alloyed iron, and
treating the surface with a corroding acid that affected the steel or
alloy without changing the iron.

The variety or damaskeening known as koftgari or kuft-work, practiced
in India, was produced by rough-etching a metallic surface and laying
on gold-leaf, which was imbedded so that it adhered only to the etched
parts of the design.

«Damaskeening by Electrolysis.»—Damaskeening of metallic plates may be
done by electrolysis. A copper plate is covered with an isolating layer
of feeble thickness, such as wax, and the desired design is scratched
in it by the use of a pointed tool. The plate is suspended in a bath of
sulphate of copper, connecting it with the positive pole of a battery,
while a second copper plate is connected with the negative pole. The
current etches grooves wherever the wax has been removed. When enough
has {250} been eaten away, remove the plate from the bath, cleanse it
with a little hydrochloric acid to remove any traces of oxide of copper
which might appear on the lines of the design; then wash it in plenty
of water and place it in a bath of silver or nickel, connecting it now
with the negative pole, the positive pole being represented by a leaf
of platinum. After a certain time the hollows are completely filled
with a deposit of silver or nickel, and it only remains to polish the
plate, which has the appearance of a piece damaskeened by hand.

«Damaskeening on Enamel Dials.»—Dip the dial into molten yellow wax,
trace on the dial the designs desired, penetrating down to the enamel.
Dip the dial in a fluorhydric acid a sufficient length of time that
it may eat to the desired depth. Next, wash in several waters, remove
the wax by means of turpentine, i. e., leave the piece covered with
wax immersed in essence of turpentine. By filling up the hollows thus
obtained with enamel very pretty effects are produced.

DANDRUFF CURE: See Hair Preparations.

«DECALCOMANIA PROCESSES:»

See also Chromos, Copying Processes, and Transfer Processes.

The decalcomania process of transferring pictures requires that the
print (usually in colors) be made on a specially prepared paper. Prints
made on decalcomania paper may be transferred in the reverse to china
ware, wood, celluloid, metal, or any hard smooth surface, and being
varnished after transfer (or burnt in, in the case of pottery) acquire
a fair degree of permanence. The original print is destroyed by the
transfer.

«Applying Decalcomania Pictures on Ceramic Products under a Glaze.»—A
biscuit-baked object is first coated with a mixture of alcohol,
shellac, varnish, and liquid glue. Then the prepared picture print is
transferred on to this adhesive layer in the customary manner. The
glaze, however, does not adhere to this coating and would, therefore,
not cover the picture when fused on. To attain this, the layer bearing
the transfer picture, as well as the latter, are simultaneously coated
with a dextrin solution of about 10 per cent. When this dextrin
coating is dry, the picture is glazed. The mixing proportions of the
two solutions employed, as well as of the adhesive and the dextrin
solutions, vary somewhat according to the physical conditions of the
porcelain, its porosity, etc. The following may serve for an example:
Dissolve 5 parts of shellac or equivalent gum in 25 parts of spirit and
emulsify this liquid with 20 parts of varnish and 8 parts of liquid
glue. After drying, the glaze is put on and the ware thus prepared is
placed in the grate fire.

The process described is especially adapted for film pictures, i. e.,
for such as bear the picture on a cohering layer, usually consisting
of collodion. It cannot be employed outright for gum pictures, i.
e., for such pictures as are composed of different pressed surfaces,
consisting mainly of gum or similar material. If this process is to be
adapted to these pictures as well, the ware, which has been given the
biscuit baking, is first provided with a crude glaze coating, whereupon
the details of the process are carried out as described above with the
exception that there is another glaze coating between the adhesive
coat and the biscuit-baked ware. In this case the article is also
immediately placed in the grate fire. It is immaterial which of the two
kinds of metachromatypes (transfer pictures) is used, in every case the
baking in the muffle, etc., is dropped. The transfer pictures may also
be produced in all colors for the grate fire.

«Decalcomania Paper.»—Smooth unsized paper, not too thick, is coated
with the following solutions:

I.—Gelatin, 10 parts, dissolved in 300 parts warm water. This solution
is applied with a sponge. The paper should be dried flat.

II.—Starch, 50 parts; gum tragacanth, dissolved in 600 parts of water.
(The gum tragacanth is soaked in 300 parts of water; in the other 300
parts the starch is boiled to a paste; the two are then poured together
and boiled.) The dried paper is brushed with this paste uniformly, a
fairly thick coat being applied. The paper is then allowed to dry again.

III.—One part blood albumen is soaked in 3 parts water for 24 hours. A
small quantity of sal ammoniac is added.

The paper, after having been coated with these three solutions and
dried, is run through the printing press, the pictures, however, being
printed reversed so that it may appear in its true position when
transferred. Any colored inks may be used. {251}

IV.—A transfer paper, known as “décalque rapide,” invented by J. B.
Duramy, consists of a paper of the kind generally used for making
pottery transfers, but coated with a mixture of gum and arrowroot
solutions in the proportion of 2 1/2 parts of the latter to 100 of
the former. The coating is applied in the ordinary manner, but the
paper is only semi-glazed. Furthermore, to decorate pottery ware by
means of this new transfer paper, there is no need to immerse the ware
in a bath in order to get the paper to draw off, as it will come away
when moistened with a damp sponge, after having been in position for
less than 5 minutes, whereas the ordinary papers require a much longer
time.

«Picture Transferrer.»—A very weak solution of soft soap and pearlashes
is used to transfer recent prints, such as illustrations from papers,
magazines, etc., to unglazed paper, on the decalcomania principle. Such
a solution is:

 I.—Soft soap         1/2 ounce
     Pearlash            2 drachms
     Distilled water    16 fluidounces

The print is laid upon a flat surface, such as a drawing board, and
moistened with the liquid. The paper on which the reproduction is
required is laid over this, and then a sheet of thicker paper placed on
the top, and the whole rubbed evenly and hard with a blunt instrument,
such as the bowl of a spoon, until the desired depth of color in the
transferrer is obtained. Another and more artistic process is to cover
the print with a transparent sheet of material coated with wax, to
trace out the pictures with a point and to take rubbings of the same
after powdering with plumbago.

 II.—Hard soap     1 drachm
      Glycerine    30 grains
      Alcohol       4 fluidrachms
      Water         1 fluidounce

Dampen the printed matter with the solution by sponging, and proceed as
with I.

DEHORNERS: See Horn.

DELTA METAL: See Alloys.

DEMON BOWLS OF FIRE: See Pyrotechnics.

DENTAL CEMENTS: See Cements.

«Dentifrices»

«TOOTH POWDERS:»

A perfect tooth powder that will clean the teeth and mouth with
thoroughness need contain but few ingredients and is easily made. For
the base there is nothing better than precipitated chalk; it possesses
all the detergent and polishing properties necessary for the thorough
cleansing of the teeth, and it is too soft to do any injury to soft or
to defective or thinly enameled teeth. This cannot be said of pumice,
cuttlebone, charcoal, kieselguhr, and similar abradants that are used
in tooth powders. Their use is reprehensible in a tooth powder. The
use of pumice or other active abradant is well enough occasionally, by
persons afflicted with a growth of tartar on the teeth, but even then
it is best applied by a competent dentist. Abrading powders have much
to answer for in hastening the day of the toothless race.

Next in value comes soap. Powdered white castile soap is usually an
ingredient of tooth powders. There is nothing so effective for removing
sordes or thickened mucus from the gums or mouth. But used alone or in
too large proportions, the taste is unpleasant. Orris possesses no
cleansing properties, but is used for its flavor and because it is most
effective for masking the taste of the soap. Sugar or saccharine may
be used for sweetening, and for flavoring almost anything can be used.
Flavors should, in the main, be used singly, though mixed flavors lack
the clean taste of simple flavors.

The most popular tooth powder sold is the white, saponaceous,
wintergreen-flavored powder, and here is a formula for this type:

 I.—Precipitated chalk                  1 pound
     White castile soap                  1 ounce
     Florentine orris                    2 ounces
     Sugar (or saccharine, 2 grains)     1 ounce
     Oil of wintergreen                1/4 ounce

The first four ingredients should be in the finest possible powder and
well dried. Triturate the oil of wintergreen with part of the chalk,
and mix this with the balance of the chalk. Sift each ingredient
separately through a sieve (No. 80 or finer), and mix well together,
afterwards sifting the mixture 5 or 6 times. The finer the sieve and
the more the mixture is sifted, the finer and lighter the powder will
be. {252}

This powder will cost about 15 cents a pound.

Pink, rose-flavored powder of the Caswell and Hazard, Hudnut, or
McMahan type, once so popular in New York. It was made in two styles,
with and without soap.

 II.—Precipitated chalk      1 pound
      Florentine orris        2 ounces
      Sugar               1 1/2 ounces
      White castile soap      1 ounce
      No. 40 carmine         15 grains
      Oil of rose            12 drops
      Oil of cloves           4 drops

Dissolve the carmine in an ounce of water of ammonia and triturate
this with part of the chalk until the chalk is uniformly dyed. Then
spread it in a thin layer on a sheet of paper and allow the ammonia to
evaporate. When there is no ammoniacal odor left, mix this dyed chalk
with the rest of the chalk and sift the whole several times until
thoroughly mixed. Then proceed to make up the powder as in the previous
formula, first sifting each ingredient separately and then together,
being careful thoroughly to triturate the oils of rose and cloves
with the orris after it is sifted and before it is added to the other
powders. The oil of cloves is used to back up the oil of rose. It
strengthens and accentuates the rose odor. Be careful not to get a drop
too much, or it will predominate over the rose.

«Violet Tooth Powder.»—

 Precipitated chalk      1 pound
 Florentine orris        4 ounces
 Castile soap            1 ounce
 Sugar               1 1/2 ounces
 Extract of violet     1/4 ounce
 Evergreen coloring, R. & F., quantity sufficient.

Proceed as in the second formula, dyeing the chalk with the evergreen
coloring to the desired shade before mixing.

 III.—Precipitated chalk              16 pounds
       Powdered orris                   4 pounds
       Powdered cuttlefish bone         2 pounds
       Ultramarine                  9 1/2 ounces
       Geranium lake                  340 grains
       Jasmine                        110 minims
       Oil of neroli                  110 minims
       Oil of bitter almonds           35 minims
       Vanillin                        50 grains
       Artificial musk (Lautier’s)     60 grains
       Saccharine                     140 grains

Rub up the perfumes with 2 ounces of alcohol, dissolve the saccharine
in warm water, add all to the orris, and set aside to dry. Rub the
colors up with water and some chalk, and when dry pass all through a
mixer and sifter twice to bring out the color.

«Camphorated and Carbolated Powders.»—A camphorated tooth powder may
be made by leaving out the oil of wintergreen in the first formula and
adding 1 1/2 ounces of powdered camphor.

Carbolated tooth powder may likewise be made with the first formula
by substituting 2 drachms of liquefied carbolic acid for the oil of
wintergreen. But the tooth powder gradually loses the odor and taste
of the acid. It is not of much utility anyway, as the castile soap in
the powder is of far greater antiseptic power than the small amount of
carbolic acid that can safely be combined in a tooth powder. Soap is
one of the best antiseptics.

Alkaline salts, borax, sodium bicarbonate, etc., are superfluous in
a powder already containing soap. The only useful purpose they might
serve is to correct acidity of the mouth, and that end can be reached
much better by rinsing the mouth with a solution of sodium bicarbonate.
Acids have no place in tooth powders, the French Codex to the contrary
notwithstanding.

«Peppermint as a Flavor.»—In France and all over Europe peppermint is
the popular flavor, as wintergreen is in this country.

English apothecaries use sugar of milk and heavy calcined magnesia in
many of their tooth powders. Neither has any particular virtue as a
tooth cleanser, but both are harmless. Cane sugar is preferable to milk
sugar as a sweetener, and saccharine is more efficient, though objected
to by some; it should be used in the proportion of 2 to 5 grains to the
pound of powder, and great care taken to have it thoroughly distributed
throughout.

An antiseptic tooth powder, containing the antiseptic ingredients of
listerine, is popular in some localities.

 IV.—Precipitated chalk     1 pound
      Castile soap           5 drachms
      Borax                  3 drachms
      Thymol                20 grains
      Menthol               20 grains
      Eucalyptol            20 grains
      Oil of wintergreen    20 grains
      Alcohol              1/2 ounce

Dissolve the thymol and oils in the alcohol, and triturate with the
chalk, and proceed as in the first formula. {253}

One fault with this powder is the disagreeable taste of the thymol.
This may be omitted and the oil of wintergreen increased to the
improvement of the taste, but with some loss of antiseptic power.

«Antiseptic Powder.»—

 V.—Boric acid              50 parts
     Salicylic acid          50 parts
     Dragon’s blood          20 parts
     Calcium carbonate    1,000 parts
     Essence spearmint       12 parts

Reduce the dragon’s blood and calcium carbonate to the finest powder,
and mix the ingredients thoroughly. The powder should be used twice a
day, or even oftener, in bad cases. It is especially recommended in
cases where the enamel has become eroded from the effects of iron.

«Menthol Tooth Powder.»—Menthol leaves a cool and pleasant sensation
in the mouth, and is excellent for fetid breath. It may be added to
most formulas by taking an equal quantity of oil of wintergreen and
dissolving in alcohol.

 Menthol                  1 part
 Salol                    8 parts
 Soap, grated fine       20 parts
 Calcium carbonate       20 parts
 Magnesia carbonate      60 parts
 Essential oil of mint    2 parts

Powder finely and mix. If there is much tartar on the teeth it will be
well to add to this formula from 10 to 20 parts of pumice, powdered
very finely.

«Tooth Powders and Pastes.»—Although the direct object of these is
to keep the teeth clean and white, they also prevent decay, if it
is only by force of mere cleanliness, and in this way (and also by
removing decomposing particles of food) tend to keep the breath
sweet and wholesome. The necessary properties of a tooth powder are
cleansing power unaccompanied by any abrading or chemical action on
the teeth themselves, a certain amount of antiseptic power to enable
it to deal with particles of stale food, and a complete absence of
any disagreeable taste or smell. These conditions are easy to realize
in practice, and there is a very large number of efficient and good
powders, as well as not a few which are apt to injure the teeth if
care is not taken to rinse out the mouth very thoroughly after using.
These powders include some of the best cleansers, and have hence
been admitted in the following recipes, mostly taken from English
collections.

I.—Charcoal and sugar, equal weights. Mix and flavor with clove oil.

 II.—Charcoal    156 parts
      Red kino    156 parts
      Sugar         6 parts

Flavor with peppermint oil

 III.—Charcoal              270 parts
       Sulphate of quinine     1 part
       Magnesia                1 part

Scent to liking.

 IV.—Charcoal                30 parts
      Cream of tartar          8 parts
      Yellow cinchona bark     4 parts
      Sugar                   15 parts

Scent with oil of cloves.

 V.—Sugar             120 parts
     Alum               10 parts
     Cream of tartar    20 parts
     Cochineal           3 parts

 VI.—Cream of Tartar            1,000 parts
     Alum                         190 parts
     Carbonate of magnesia        375 parts
     Sugar                        375 parts
     Cochineal                     75 parts
     Essence Ceylon cinnamon       90 parts
     Essence cloves                75 parts
     Essence English peppermint    45 parts

 VII.—Sugar                  200 parts
       Cream of tartar       400 parts
       Magnesia              400 parts
       Starch                400 parts
       Cinnamon               32 parts
       Mace                   11 parts
       Sulphate of quinine    16 parts
       Carmine                17 parts

Scent with oil of peppermint and oil of rose.

 VIII.—Bleaching powder     11 parts
        Red coral           12 parts

 IX.—Red cinchona bark        12 parts
      Magnesia                 50 parts
      Cochineal                 9 parts
      Alum                      6 parts
      Cream of tartar         100 parts {254}
      English peppermint oil    4 parts
      Cinnamon oil              2 parts

Grind the first five ingredients separately, then mix the alum with the
cochineal, and then add to it the cream of tartar and the bark. In the
meantime the magnesia is mixed with the essential oils, and finally the
whole mass is mixed through a very fine silk sieve.

 X.—Whitewood charcoal    250 parts
     Cinchona bark         125 parts
     Sugar                 250 parts
     Peppermint oil         12 parts
     Cinnamon oil            8 parts

 XI.—Precipitated chalk     750 parts
      Cream of tartar        250 parts
      Florence orris root    250 parts
      Sal ammoniac            60 parts
      Ambergris                4 parts
      Cinnamon                 4 parts
      Coriander                4 parts
      Cloves                   4 parts
      Rosewood                 4 parts

 XII.—Dragon’s blood        250 parts
       Cream of tartar        30 parts
       Florence orris root    30 parts
       Cinnamon               16 parts
       Cloves                  8 parts

 XIII.—Precipitated chalk    500 parts
        Dragon’s blood        250 parts
        Red sandalwood        125 parts
        Alum                  125 parts
        Orris root            250 parts
        Cloves                 15 parts
        Cinnamon               15 parts
        Vanilla                 8 parts
        Rosewood               15 parts
        Carmine lake          250 parts
        Carmine                 8 parts

 XIV.—Cream of tartar    150 parts
       Alum                25 parts
       Cochineal           12 parts
       Cloves              25 parts
       Cinnamon            25 parts
       Rosewood             6 parts

Scent with essence of rose.

 XV.—Coral                20 parts
      Sugar                20 parts
      Wood charcoal         6 parts
      Essence of vervain    1 part

 XVI.—Precipitated chalk    500 parts
       Orris root            500 parts
       Carmine                 1 part
       Sugar                   1 part
       Essence of rose         4 parts
       Essence of neroli       4 parts

 XVII.—Cinchona bark            50 parts
        Chalk                   100 parts
        Myrrh                    50 parts
        Orris root              100 parts
        Cinnamon                 50 parts
        Carbonate of ammonia    100 parts
        Oil of cloves.            2 parts

 XVIII.—Gum arabic           30 parts
         Cutch                80 parts
         Licorice juice      550 parts
         Cascarilla           20 parts
         Mastic               20 parts
         Orris root           20 parts
         Oil of cloves         5 parts
         Oil of peppermint    15 parts
         Extract of amber      5 parts
         Extract of musk       5 parts

 XIX.—Chalk         200 parts
       Cuttlebone    100 parts
       Orris root    100 parts
       Bergamot oil    2 parts
       Lemon oil       4 parts
       Neroli oil      1 part
       Portugal oil    2 parts

 XX.—Borax         50 parts
      Chalk        100 parts
      Myrrh         25 parts
      Orris root    22 parts
      Cinnamon      25 parts

 XXI.—Wood charcoal    30 parts
       White honey      30 parts
       Vanilla sugar    30 parts
       Cinchona bark    16 parts

Flavor with oil of peppermint.

 XXII.—Syrup of 33° B.             38 parts
        Cuttlebone                 200 parts
        Carmine lake                30 parts
        English oil of peppermint    5 parts {255}

 XXIII.—Red coral    50 parts
         Cinnamon     12 parts
         Cochineal     6 parts
         Alum      2 1/8 parts
         Honey       125 parts
         Water         6 parts

Triturate the cochineal and the alum with the water. Then, after
allowing them to stand for 24 hours, put in the honey, the coral, and
the cinnamon. When the effervescence has ceased, which happens in about
48 hours, flavor with essential oils to taste.

 XXIV.—Well-skimmed honey     50 parts
        Syrup of peppermint    50 parts
        Orris root             12 parts
        Sal ammoniac           12 parts
        Cream of tartar        12 parts
        Tincture of cinnamon    3 parts
        Tincture of cloves      3 parts
        Tincture of vanilla     3 parts
        Oil of cloves           1 part

 XXV.—Cream of tartar    120 parts
       Pumice             120 parts
       Alum                30 parts
       Cochineal           30 parts
       Bergamot oil         3 parts
       Clove                3 parts

Make to a thick paste with honey or sugar.

 XXVI.—Honey                 250 parts
        Precipitated chalk    250 parts
        Orris root            250 parts
        Tincture of opium       7 parts
        Tincture of myrrh       7 parts
        Oil of rose             2 parts
        Oil of cloves           2 parts
        Oil of nutmeg           2 parts

 XXVII.—Florentine orris       6 parts
         Magnesium carbonate    2 parts
         Almond soap           12 parts
         Calcium carbonate     60 parts
         Thymol                 1 part
         Alcohol, quantity sufficient.

Powder the solids and mix. Dissolve the thymol in as little alcohol
as possible, and add perfume in a mixture in equal parts of oil of
peppermint, oil of clove, oil of lemon, and oil of eucalyptus. About 1
minim of each to every ounce of powder will be sufficient.

XXVIII.—Myrrh, 10 parts; sodium chloride, 10 parts; soot, 5 parts;
soap, 5 parts; lime carbonate, 500 parts.

XXIX.—Camphor, 5 parts; soap, 10 parts; saccharine, 0.25 parts; thymol,
0.5 parts; lime carbonate, 500 parts. Scent, as desired, with rose oil,
sassafras oil, wintergreen oil, or peppermint oil.

XXX.—Powdered camphor, 6 parts; myrrh, 15 parts; powdered Peruvian
bark, 6 parts; distilled water, 12 parts; alcohol of 80° F., 50 parts.
Macerate the powders in the alcohol for a week and then filter.

XXXI.—Soap, 1; saccharine. 0.025; thymol, 0.05; lime carbonate, 50;
sassafras essence, enough to perfume.

XXXII.—Camphor, 0.5; soap, 1; saccharine, 0.025; calcium carbonate, 50;
oil of sassafras, or cassia, or of gaultheria, enough to perfume.

XXXIII.—Myrrh, 1; sodium chloride, 1; soap, 50; lime carbonate, 50;
rose oil as required.

XXXIV.—Precipitated calcium carbonate, 60 parts; quinine sulphate, 2
parts; saponine, 0.1 part; saccharine, 0.1 part; carmine as required;
oil of peppermint, sufficient.

XXXV.—Boracic acid, 100 parts; powdered starch, 50 parts; quinine
hydrochlorate, 10 parts; saccharine, 1 part; vanillin (dissolved in
alcohol), 1.5 parts.

«Neutral Tooth Powder.»—Potassium chlorate, 200 parts; starch, 200
parts; carmine lake, 40 parts; saccharine (in alcoholic solution), 1
part; vanillin (dissolved in alcohol), 1 part.

«Tooth Powder for Children.»—

 Magnesia carbonate    10 parts
 Medicinal soap        10 parts
 Sepia powder          80 parts
 Peppermint oil, quantity sufficient to flavor.

«Flavorings for Dentifrice.»—

I.—Sassafras oil, true 1 drachm Pinus pumilio oil 20 minims Bitter
orange oil 20 minims Wintergreen oil 2 minims Anise oil 4 minims Rose
geranium oil 1 minim Alcohol 1 ounce

Use according to taste.

 II.—Oil of peppermint, English    4 parts
      Oil of aniseed                6 parts {256}
      Oil of clove                  1 part
      Oil of cinnamon               1 part
      Saffron                       1 part
      Deodorized alcohol          350 parts
      Water                       300 parts

Or, cassia, 4 parts, and vanilla, 1/2 part, may be substituted for
the saffron.

«LIQUID DENTIFRICES AND TOOTH WASHES:»

«A French Dentifrice.»—I.—A preparation which has a reputation in
France as a liquid dentifrice is composed of alcohol, 96 per cent,
1,000 parts; Mitcham peppermint oil, 30 parts; aniseed oil, 5 parts;
oil of Acorus calamus, 0.5 parts. Finely powdered cochineal and cream
of tartar, 5 parts each, are used to tint the solution. The mixed
ingredients are set aside for 14 days before filtering.

Sozodont.—

II.—The liquid tooth preparation “Sozodont” is said to contain: Soap
powder, 60 parts; glycerine, 60 parts; alcohol, 360 parts; water, 220
parts; oils of peppermint, of aniseed, of clover, and of cinnamon, 1
part each; oil of wintergreen, 1–200 part.

 III.—Thymol                                 2 grains
       Benzoic acid                          24 grains
       Tincture eucalyptus                    2 drachms
       Alcohol quantity sufficient to make    2 ounces.

Mix. Sig.: A teaspoonful diluted with half a wineglassful of water.

 IV.—Carbolic acid, pure     2 ounces
      Glycerine, 1,260°       1 ounce
      Oil wintergreen         6 drachms
      Oil cinnamon            3 drachms
      Powdered cochineal    1/2 drachm
      S. V. R                40 ounces
      Distilled water        40 ounces

Dissolve the acid in the glycerine with the aid of a gentle heat and
the essential oils in the spirit; mix together, and add the water and
cochineal; then let the preparation stand for a week and filter.

A mixture of caramel and cochineal coloring, N. F., gives an agreeable
red color for saponaceous tooth washes. It is not permanent, however.

Variations of this formula follow:

 V.—White castile soap      1 ounce
     Tincture of asarum      2 drachms
     Oil of peppermint     1/2 drachm
     Oil of wintergreen    1/2 drachm
     Oil of cloves           5 drops
     Oil of cassia           5 drops
     Glycerine               4 ounces
     Alcohol                14 ounces
     Water                  14 ounces

 VI.—White castile soap    1 1/2 ounces
      Oil of orange            10 minims
      Oil of cassia             5 minims
      Oil of wintergreen       15 minims
      Glycerine                 3 ounces
      Alcohol                   8 ounces
      Water enough to make 1 quart.

 VII.—White castile soap    3 ounces
       Glycerine             5 ounces
       Water                20 ounces
       Alcohol              30 ounces
       Oil of peppermint     1 drachm
       Oil of wintergreen    1 drachm
       Oil of orange peel    1 drachm
       Oil of anise          1 drachm
       Oil of cassia         1 drachm

Beat up the soap with the glycerine; dissolve the oils in the alcohol
and add to the soap and glycerine. Stir well until the soap is
completely dissolved.

 VIII.—White castile soap    1 ounce
        Orris root            4 ounces
        Rose leaves           4 ounces
        Oil of rose         1/2 drachm
        Oil of neroli       1/2 drachm
        Cochineal           1/2 ounce
        Diluted alcohol       2 quarts

If the wash is intended simply as an elixir for sweetening the breath,
the following preparation, resembling the celebrated eau de botot, will
be found very desirable:

 IX.—Oil of peppermint        30 minims
      Oil of spearmint         15 minims
      Oil of cloves             5 minims
      Oil of red cedar wood    60 minims
      Tincture of myrrh         1 ounce
      Alcohol                   1 pint

Care must be taken not to confound the oil of cedar tops with the oil
of cedar wood. The former has an odor like turpentine; the latter has
the fragrance of the red cedar wood.

For a cleansing wash, a solution of soap is to be recommended. It may
be made after the following formula:

 X.—White castile soap      1 ounce
     Alcohol                 6 ounces
     Glycerine               4 ounces
     Hot water               6 ounces
     Oil of peppermint      15 minims
     Oil of wintergreen     20 minims
     Oil of cloves           5 minims
     Extract of vanilla    1/2 ounce

Dissolve the soap in the hot water and add the glycerine and extract of
vanilla. Dissolve the oils in the alcohol, mix the solutions, and after
24 hours filter through paper. {257}

It is customary to color such preparations. An agreeable brown-yellow
tint may be given by the addition of a small quantity of caramel. A red
color may be given by cochineal. The color will fade, but will be found
reasonably permanent when kept from strong light.

«TOOTH SOAPS AND PASTES:»

«Tooth Soaps.»—

 I.—White castile soap    225 parts
     Precipitated chalk    225 parts
     Orris root            225 parts
     Oil of peppermint       7 parts
     Oil of cloves           4 parts
     Water, a sufficient quantity.

 II.—Castile soap           100 drachms
      Precipitated chalk     100 drachms
      Powdered orris root    100 drachms
      White sugar             50 drachms
      Rose water              50 drachms
      Oil of cloves          100 drops
      Oil of peppermint        3 drachms

Dissolve the soap in water, add the rose water, then rub up with the
sugar with which the oils have been previously triturated, the orris
root and the precipitated chalk.

III.—Potassium chlorate, 20 drachms; powdered white soap, 10 drachms;
precipitated chalk, 20 drachms; peppermint oil, 15 drops; clove oil, 5
drops; glycerine, sufficient to mass. Use with a soft brush.

«Saponaceous Tooth Pastes.»—

 I.—Precipitated carbonate of lime    90 parts
     Soap powder                       30 parts
     Ossa sepia, powdered              15 parts
     Tincture of cocaine               45 parts
     Oil of peppermint                  6 parts
     Oil of ylang-ylang               0.3 parts
     Glycerine                         30 parts
     Rose water to cause liquefaction. Carmine solution to color.

 II.—Precipitated carbonate of lime    150 parts
      Soap powder                        45 parts
      Arrowroot                          45 parts
      Oil of eucalyptus                   2 parts
      Oil of peppermint                   1 part
      Oil of geranium                     1 part
      Oil of cloves                    0.25 parts
      Oil of aniseed                   0.25 parts
      Glycerine                          45 parts
      Chloroform water to cause liquefaction. Carmine solution to color.

Cherry Tooth Paste.—

 III.—Clarified honey        100 drachms
       Precipitated chalk     100 drachms
       Powdered orris root    100 drachms
       Powdered rose leaves    60 drops
       Oil of cloves           55 drops
       Oil of mace             55 drops
       Oil of geranium         55 drops

Chinese Tooth Paste.—

 IV.—Powdered pumice     100 drachms
      Starch               20 drachms
      Oil of peppermint    40 drops
      Carmine             1/4 drachm

Eucalyptus Paste.—Forty drachms precipitated chalk, 11 drachms soap
powder, 11 drachms wheaten starch, 1/4 drachm carmine, 30 drops
oil of peppermint, 30 drops oil of geranium, 60 drops eucalyptus
oil, 2 drops oil of cloves, 12 drops oil of anise mixed together and
incorporated to a paste, with a mixture of equal parts of glycerine and
spirit.

Myrrh Tooth Paste.—

 Precipitated chalk    8 ounces
 Orris                 8 ounces
 White castile soap    2 ounces
 Borax                 2 ounces
 Myrrh                 1 ounce
 Glycerine, quantity sufficient.

Color and perfume to suit.

A thousand grams of levigated powdered oyster shells are rubbed up
with 12 drachms of cochineal to a homogeneous powder. To this is added
1 drachm of potassium permanganate and 1 drachm boric acid and rubbed
well up. Foam up 200 drachms castile soap and 5 drachms chemically pure
glycerine and mix it with the foregoing mass, adding by teaspoonful 150
grams of boiling strained honey. The whole mass is again thoroughly
rubbed up, adding while doing so 200 drops honey. Finally the mass
should be put into a mortar and pounded for an hour and then kneaded
with the hands for 2 hours.

Tooth Paste to be put in Collapsible Tubes.—

 Calcium carbonate, levigated        100 parts
 Cuttlefish bone, in fine powder      25 parts
 Castile soap, old white, powdered    25 parts
 Tincture of carmine, ammoniated       4 parts
 Simple syrup                         25 parts {258}
 Menthol                               2 parts
 Alcohol                               5 parts
 Attar of rose or other perfume, quantity sufficient.
 Rose water sufficient to make a paste.

Beat the soap with a little rose water, then warm until softened, add
syrup and tincture of carmine. Dissolve the perfume and menthol in
the alcohol and add to soap mixture. Add the solids and incorporate
thoroughly. Finally, work to a proper consistency for filling into
collapsible tubes, adding water, if necessary.

«MOUTH WASHES.»

 I.—Quillaia bark    125 parts
     Glycerine         95 parts
     Alcohol          155 parts

Macerate for 4 days and add:

 Acid. carbol. cryst    4 parts
 Ol. geranii          0.6 parts
 Ol. caryophyll       0.6 parts
 Ol. rosæ             0.6 parts
 Ol. cinnam           0.6 parts
 Tinct. ratanhæ        45 parts
 Aqua rosæ            900 parts

Macerate again for 4 days and filter.

 Thymol              20 parts
 Peppermint oil      10 parts
 Clove oil            5 parts
 Sage oil             5 parts
 Marjoram oil         3 parts
 Sassafras oil        3 parts
 Wintergreen oil    0.5 parts
 Coumarin           0.5 parts
 Alcohol, dil.    1,000 parts

A teaspoonful in a glass of water.

 II.—Tincture orris (1 in 4)    1 1/2 parts
      Lavender water               1/2 part
      Tinct. cinnamon (1 in 8)       1 part
      Tinct. yellow cinch bark       1 part
      Eau de cologne                 2 parts

Orris and Rose.—

 III.—Orris root          30 drachms
       Rose leaves          8 drachms
       Soap bark            8 drachms
       Cochineal        3 1/2 drachms
       Diluted alcohol    475 drachms
       Oil rose            30 drops
       Oil neroli          40 drops

Myrrh Astringent.—

 IV.—Tincture myrrh     125 drachms
      Tincture benzoin    50 drachms
      Tincture cinchona    8 drachms
      Alcohol            225 drachms
      Oil of rose         30 drops

Borotonic.—

 V.—Acid boric                         20 parts
     Oil wintergreen                    10 parts
     Glycerine                         110 parts
     Alcohol                           150 parts
     Distilled water enough to make    600 parts

Sweet Salicyl.—

 VI.—Acid salicylic        4 parts
      Saccharine            1 part
      Sodium bicarbonate    1 part
      Alcohol             200 parts

Foaming Orange.—

 VII.—Castile soap       29 drachms
       Oil orange         10 drops
       Oil cinnamon        5 drops
       Distilled water    30 drachms
       Alcohol            90 drachms

Australian Mint.—

 VIII.—Thymol               0.25 parts
        Acid benzoic            3 parts
        Tincture eucalyptus    15 parts
        Alcohol               100 parts
        Oil peppermint       0.75 parts

Fragrant Dentine.—

 IX.—Soap bark     125 parts
      Glycerine      95 parts
      Alcohol       155 parts
      Rose water    450 parts

Macerate for 4 days and add:

 Carbolic acid, cryst    4 parts
 Oil geranium          0.6 parts
 Oil cloves            0.6 parts
 Oil rose              0.6 parts
 Oil cinnamon          0.6 parts
 Tincture rhatany       45 parts
 Rose water            450 parts

Allow to stand 4 days; then filter.

Aromantiseptic.—

 X.—Thymol                20 parts
     Oil peppermint        10 parts
     Oil cloves             5 parts
     Oil sage               5 parts
     Oil marjoram           3 parts
     Oil sassafras          3 parts
     Oil wintergreen      0.5 parts
     Coumarin             0.5 parts
     Diluted alcohol    1,000 parts

The products of the foregoing formulas are used in the proportion of 1
teaspoonful in a half glassful of water.

Foaming.—

 XI.—Soap bark, powder            2 ounces
      Cochineal powder            60 grains
      Glycerine                    3 ounces {259}
      Alcohol                     10 ounces
      Water sufficient to make    32 ounces

Mix the soap, cochineal, glycerine alcohol, and water together;
let macerate for several days; filter and flavor; if same produces
turbidity, shake up the mixture with magnesium carbonate, and filter
through paper.

Odonter.—

 XII.—Soap bark, powder            2 ounces
       Cudbear, powder              4 drachms
       Glycerine                    4 ounces
       Alcohol                     14 ounces
       Water sufficient to make    32 ounces

Mix, and let macerate with frequent agitation, for several days;
filter; add flavor; if necessary filter again through magnesium
carbonate or paper pulp.

Sweet Anise.—

 XIII.—Soap bark                    2 ounces
        Aniseed                      4 drachms
        Cloves                       4 drachms
        Cinnamon                     4 drachms
        Cochineal                   60 grains
        Vanilla                     60 grains
        Oil of peppermint            1 drachm
        Alcohol                     16 ounces
        Water sufficient to make    32 ounces

Reduce the drugs to coarse powder, dissolve the oil of peppermint in
the alcohol, add equal parts of water, and macerate therein the powders
for 5 to 6 days, with frequent agitation; place in percolator and
percolate until 32 fluidounces have been obtained. Let stand for a week
and filter through paper; if necessary to make it perfectly bright and
clear, shake up with some magnesia, and again filter.

Saponaceous.—

 XIV.—White castile soap    2 ounces
       Glycerine             2 ounces
       Alcohol               8 ounces
       Water                 4 ounces
       Oil peppermint       20 drops
       Oil wintergreen      30 drops
       Solution of carmine N. F. sufficient to color.

Dissolve the soap in the alcohol and water, add the other ingredients,
and filter.

 XV.—Crystallized carbolic acid    4 parts
      Eucalyptol                    1 part
      Salol                         2 parts
      Menthol                    0.25 parts
      Thymol                      0.1 part
      Alcohol                     100 parts

Dye with cochineal (1 1/2 per cent).

«Jackson’s Mouth Wash.»—Fresh lemon peel, 10 parts; fresh sweet orange
peel, 10 parts; angelica root, 10 parts; guaiacum wood, 30 parts;
balsam of Tolu, 12 parts; benzoin, 12 parts; Peruvian balsam, 4 parts;
myrrh, 3 parts; alcohol (90 per cent), 500 parts.

«Tablets for Antiseptic Mouth Wash.»—Heliotropine, 0.01 part;
saccharine, 0.01 part; salicylic acid, 0.01 part; menthol, 1 part; milk
sugar, 5 parts. These tablets may be dyed green, red, or blue, with
chlorophyll, eosine, and indigo carmine, respectively.

«Depilatories»

«Depilatory Cream.»—The depilatory cream largely used in New York
hospitals for the removal of hair from the skin previous to operations:

 I.—Barium sulphide        3 parts
     Starch                 1 part
     Water, sufficient quantity.

The mixed powders are to be made into a paste with water, and applied
in a moderately thick layer to the parts to be denuded of hair, the
excess of the latter having been previously trimmed off with a pair
of scissors. From time to time a small part of the surface should be
examined, and when it is seen that the hair can be removed, the mass
should be washed off. The barium sulphide should be quite fresh. It can
be prepared by making barium sulphate and its own weight of charcoal
into a paste with linseed oil, rolling the paste into the shape of a
sausage, and placing it upon a bright fire to incinerate. When it has
ceased to burn, and is a white hot mass, remove from the fire, cool,
and powder.

The formula is given with some reserve, for preparations of this kind
are usually unsafe unless used with great care. It should be removed
promptly when the skin begins to burn.

 II.—Barium sulphide                     25 parts
      Soap                                 5 parts
      Talc                                35 parts
      Starch                              35 parts
      Benzaldehyde sufficient to make    120 parts

Powder the solids and mix. To use, to a part of this mixture add 3
parts of water, at the time of its application, and with a camel’s-hair
pencil paint the mixture evenly over the spot to be freed of hair. Let
remain in contact with the {260} skin for 5 minutes, then wash off with
a sponge, and in the course of 5 minutes longer the hair will come off
on slight friction with the sponge.

Strontium sulphide is an efficient depilatory. A convenient form of
applying it is as follows:

 III.—Strontium sulphide   2 parts
       Zinc oxide           3 parts
       Powdered starch      3 parts

Mix well and keep in the dry state until wanted for use, taking then
a sufficient quantity, forming into a paste with warm water and
applying to the surface to be deprived of hair. Allow to remain from
1 to 5 minutes, according to the nature of the hair and skin; it is
not advisable to continue the application longer than the last named
period. Remove in all cases at once when any caustic action is felt.
After the removal of the paste, scrape the skin gently but firmly with
a blunt-edged blade (a paper knife, for instance) until the loosened
hair is removed. Then immediately wash the denuded surface well with
warm water, and apply cold cream or some similar emollient as a
dressing.

                               By weight
 IV.—Alcohol                   12 parts
      Collodion                 35 parts
      Iodine                  0.75 parts
      Essence of turpentine    1.5 parts
      Castor oil                 2 parts

Apply with a brush on the affected parts for 3 or 4 days in thick
coats. When the collodion plaster thus formed is pulled off, the hairs
adhere to its inner surface.

V.—Rosin sticks are intended for the removal of hairs and are made
from colophony with an admixture of 10 per cent of yellow wax. The
sticks are heated like a stick of sealing wax until soft or semi-liquid
(142° F.), and lightly applied on the place from which the hair is to
be removed, and the mass is allowed to cool. These rosin sticks are
said to give good satisfaction.

DEPTHINGS, VERIFICATION OF: See Watchmakers’ Formulas.

DESILVERING: See Plating.

DETERGENTS: See Cleaning Preparations and Methods.

DEVELOPERS FOR PHOTOGRAPHIC PURPOSES: See Photography.

DEXTRIN PASTES AND MUCILAGES: See Adhesives.

DIAL CEMENTS: See Adhesives, under Jewelers’ Cements.

DIAL CLEANERS: See Cleaning Preparations and Methods.

DIAL REPAIRING: See Watchmakers’ Formulas.

DIAMALT: See Milk.

«DIAMOND TESTS:»

See also Gems and Jewelers’ Formulas.

To Distinguish Genuine Diamonds.—If characters or marks of any
kind are drawn with an aluminum pencil on glass, porcelain, or any
substance containing silex, the marks cannot be erased by rubbing,
however energetic the friction, and even acids will not cause them to
disappear entirely, unless the surface is entirely freed from greasy
matter, which can be accomplished by rubbing with whiting and passing a
moistened cloth over the surface at the time of writing. So, in order
to distinguish the true diamond from the false, it is necessary only
to wipe the stone carefully and trace a line on it with an aluminum
pencil, and then rub it briskly with a moistened cloth. If the line
continues visible, the stone is surely false. If, on the contrary,
the stone is a true diamond, the line will disappear without leaving a
trace, and without injury to the stone.

The common test for recognizing the diamond is the file, which does not
cut it, though it readily attacks imitations. There are other stones
not affected by the file, but they have characteristics of color and
other effects by which they are readily distinguished.

This test should be confirmed by others. From the following the reader
can select the most convenient:

A piece of glass on which the edge of a diamond is drawn, will be cut
without much pressure; a slight blow is sufficient to separate the
glass. An imitation may scratch the glass, but this will not be cut as
with the diamond. {261}

If a small drop of water is placed upon the face of a diamond and moved
about by means of the point of a pin, it will preserve its globular
form, provided the stone is clean and dry. If the attempt is made on
glass, the drop will spread.

A diamond immersed in a glass of water will be distinctly visible, and
will shine clearly through the liquid. The imitation stone will be
confounded with the water and will be nearly invisible.

By looking through a diamond with a glass at a black point on a sheet
of white paper, a single distinct point will be seen. Several points,
or a foggy point will appear if the stone is spurious.

Hydrofluoric acid dissolves all imitations, but has no effect on true
diamonds. This acid is kept in gutta-percha bottles.

For an eye practiced in comparisons it is not difficult to discern
that the facets in the cut of a true diamond are not as regular as are
those of the imitation; for in cutting and polishing the real stone an
effort is made to preserve the original as much as possible, preferring
some slight irregularities in the planes and edges to the loss in
the weight, for we all know that diamonds are sold by weight. In an
imitation, however, whether of paste or another less valuable stone,
there is always an abundance of cheap material which may be cut away
and thereby form a perfect-appearing stone.

Take a piece of a fabric, striped red and white, and draw the stone to
be tested over the colors. If it is an imitation, the colors will be
seen through it, while a diamond will not allow them to be seen.

A genuine diamond, rubbed on wood or metal, after having been
previously exposed to the light of the electric arc, becomes
phosphorescent in darkness, which does not occur with imitations.

Heat the stone to be tested, after giving it a coating of borax, and
let it fall into cold water. A diamond will undergo the test without
the slightest damage; the glass will be broken in pieces.

Finally, try with the fingers to crush an imitation and a genuine
diamond between two coins, and you will soon see the difference.

DIAMOND CEMENT: See Adhesives, under Jewelers’ Cements.

DIARRHEA IN BIRDS: See Veterinary Formulas.

DIARRHEA REMEDIES: See Cholera Remedies.

«Die Venting.»—Many pressmen have spent hours and days in the endeavor
to produce sharp and full impressions on figured patterns. If all
the deep recesses in deep-figured dies are vented to allow the air
to escape when the blow is struck, it will do much to obtain perfect
impressions, and requires only half the force that is necessary in
unvented dies. This is not known in many shops and consequently this
little air costs much in power and worry.

«DIGESTIVE POWDERS AND TABLETS.»

 I.—Sodium bicarbonate    93 parts
     Sodium chlorate        4 parts
     Calcium carbonate      3 parts
     Pepsin                 5 parts
     Ammonium carbonate     1 part

 II.—Sodium bicarbonate             120 parts
      Sodium chlorate                  5 parts
      Sal physiologic (see below)      4 parts
      Magnesium carbonate             10 parts

 III.—Pepsin, saccharated (U. S. P.)    10 drachms
       Pancreatin                        10 drachms
       Diastase                          50 drachms
       Acid, lactic                      40 drops
       Sugar of milk                     40 drachms

 IV.—Pancreatin             3 parts
      Sodium bicarbonate    15 parts
      Milk sugar             2 parts

«Sal Physiologicum.»—The formula for this ingredient, the so-called
nutritive salt (_Nahrsalz_), is as follows:

 Calcium phosphate               40 parts
 Potassium sulphate               2 parts
 Sodium phosphate                20 parts
 Sulphuric, precipitated          5 parts
 Sodium chlorate                 60 parts
 Magnesium phosphate              5 parts
 Carlsbad salts, artificial      60 parts
 Silicic acid                    10 parts
 Calcium fluoride             2 1/2 parts

«Digestive Tablets.»—

 Powdered double refined sugar    300 parts
 Subnitrate bismuth                60 parts
 Saccharated pepsin                45 parts
 Pancreatin                        45 parts
 Mucilage                          35 parts
 Ginger                            30 parts

Mix and divide into suitable sizes. {262}

DIOGEN DEVELOPER: See Photography.

DIP FOR BRASS: See Plating and Brass.

DIPS: See Metals.

DIPS FOR CATTLE: See Disinfectants and Veterinary Formulas.

DISH WASHING: See Household Formulas

«Disinfectants»

«Disinfecting Fluids.»—

 I.—Creosote                    40 gallons
     Rosin, powdered             56 pounds
     Caustic soda lye, 38° Tw     9 gallons
     Boiling water               12 gallons
     Methylated spirit            1 gallon
     Black treacle               14 pounds

Melt the rosin and add the creosote; run in the lyes; then add the
matter and methylated spirit mixed together, and add the treacle; boil
all till dissolved and mix well together.

 II.—Hot water                  120 pounds
      Caustic soda lye, 38° B    120 pounds
      Rosin                      300 pounds
      Creosote                   450 pounds

Boil together the water, lye, and rosin, till dissolved; turn off steam
and stir in the creosote; keep on steam to nearly boiling all the time,
but so as not to boil over, until thoroughly incorporated.

 III.—Fresh-made soap (hard yellow)    7 pounds
       Gas tar                         21 pounds
       Water, with 2 pounds soda       21 pounds

Dissolve soap (cut in fine shavings) in the gas tar; then add slowly
the soda and water which has been dissolved.

 IV.—Rosin                                     1     cwt.
      Caustic soda lye, 18° B                  16     gallons
      Black tar oil                               1/2 gallon
      Nitro-naphthalene dissolved in boiling
                    water (about 1/2 gallon)    2     pounds

Melt the rosin, add the caustic lye; then stir in the tar oil and add
the nitro-naphthalene.

 V.—Camphor                         1 ounce
     Carbolic acid (75 per cent)    12 ounces
     Aqua ammonia                   10 drachms
     Soft salt water                 8 drachms

To be diluted when required for use.

 VI.—Heavy tar oil                                       10 gallons
      Caustic soda dissolved in 5 gallons water 600° F    30 pounds

Mix the soda lyes with the oil, and heat the mixture gently with
constant stirring; add, when just on the boil, 20 pounds of refuse
fat or tallow and 20 pounds of soft soap; continue the heat until
thoroughly saponified, and add water gradually to make up 40 gallons.
Let it settle; then decant the clear liquid.

«Disinfecting Fluids or Weed-Killers.»—

I.—Cold water, 20 gallons; powdered rosin, 56 pounds; creosote oil,
40 gallons; sulphuric acid, 1/2 gallon; caustic soda lye, 30° B., 9
gallons.

Heat water and dissolve the rosin; then add creosote and boil to a
brown mass and shut off steam; next run in sulphuric acid and then the
lyes.

 II.—Water                                  40 gallons
      Powdered black rosin                   56 pounds
      Sulphuric acid                      2 1/2 gallons
      Creosote                               10 gallons
      Melted pitch                           24 pounds
      Pearlash boiled in 10 gallons water    56 pounds

Boil water and dissolve rosin and acid; then add creosote and boil well
again; add pitch and run in pearlash solution (boiling); then shut off
steam.

III. (White).—Water, 40 gallons; turpentine, 2 gallons; ammonia, 1/2
gallon; carbolic crystals, 14 pounds; caustic lyes, 2 gallons; white
sugar, 60 pounds, dissolved in 40 pounds water.

Heat water to boiling, and add first turpentine, next ammonia, and then
carbolic crystals. Stir well until thoroughly dissolved, and add lyes
and sugar solution.

«DISINFECTING POWDERS.»

 I.—Sulphate of iron    100 parts
     Sulphate of zinc     50 parts
     Oak bark, powder     40 parts
     Tar                   5 parts
     Oil                   5 parts

II.—Mix together chloride of lime and burnt umber, add water, and set
on plates. {263}

«Blue Sanitary Powder.»—

 Powdered alum                     2 pounds
 Oil of eucalyptus                12 ounces
 Rectified spirits of tar          6 ounces
 Rectified spirit of turpentine    2 ounces
 Ultramarine blue (common)       3/4 ounces
 Common salt                      14 pounds

Mix alum with about 3 pounds of salt in a large mortar, gradually add
oil of eucalyptus and spirits, then put in the ultramarine blue, and
lastly remaining salt, mixing all well, and passing through a sieve.

«Carbolic Powder.» (Strong).—Slaked lime in fine powder, 1 cwt.;
carbolic acid, 75 per cent, 2 gallons.

Color with aniline dye and then pass through a moderately fine sieve
and put into tins or casks and keep air-tight.

«Pink Carbolized Sanitary Powder.»—

 Powdered alum                         6 ounces
 Powdered green copperas               5 pounds
 Powdered red lead                     5 pounds
 Calvert’s No. 5 carbolic acid    12 1/2 pounds
 Spirit of turpentine              1 1/2 pounds
 Calais sand                          10 pounds
 Slaked lime                          60 pounds

Mix carbolic acid with turpentine and sand, then add the other
ingredients, lastly the slaked lime and, after mixing, pass through a
sieve. It is advisable to use lime that has been slaked some time.

«Cuspidor Powder.»—Peat rubble is ground to a powder, and 100 parts
put into a mixing machine, which can be hermetically sealed. Then 15
parts of blue vitriol are added either very finely pulverized or in
a saturated aqueous solution. Next are added 2 parts of formalin,
and lastly 1 part of ground cloves, orange peel, or a sufficient
quantity of some volatile oil, to give the desired perfume. The mixing
machine is then closed, and kept at work until the constituents
are perfectly mixed; the powder is then ready to be put up for the
market. Its purpose is to effect a rapid absorption of the sputum,
with simultaneous destruction of any microbes present, and to prevent
decomposition and consequent unpleasant odors.

«Deodorants for Water-Closets.»—

 I.—Ferric chloride              4 parts
     Zinc chloride                5 parts
     Aluminum chloride            5 parts
     Calcium chloride             4 parts
     Magnesium chloride           3 parts
     Water sufficient to make    90 parts

Dissolve, and add to each gallon 10 grains thymol and 1/4 ounce oil
of rosemary, previously dissolved in about 6 quarts of alcohol, and
filter.

 II.—Sulphuric acid, fuming      90 parts
      Potassium permanganate      45 parts
      Water                    4,200 parts

Dissolve the permanganate in the water, and add under the acid. This is
said to be a most powerful disinfectant, deodorizer, and germicide. It
should not be used where there are metal trimmings.

«Formaldehyde for Disinfecting Books, Papers, etc.»—The property of
formaldehyde of penetrating all kinds of paper, even when folded
together in several layers, may be utilized for a perfect disinfection
of books and letters, especially at a temperature of 86° to 122° F. in
a closed room. The degree of penetration as well as the disinfecting
power of the formaldehyde depend upon the method of generating the gas.
Letters, paper in closed envelopes, are completely disinfected only in
12 hours, books in 24 hours at a temperature of 122° F. when 70 cubic
centimeters of formo-chloral—17.5 g. of gas—per cubic meter of space
are used. Books must be stood up in such a manner that the gas can
enter from the sides. Bacilli of typhoid preserve their vitality longer
upon unsized paper and on filtering paper than on other varieties.

There is much difference of opinion as to the disinfecting and
deodorizing power of formaldehyde when used to disinfect wooden
tierces. While some have found it to answer well, others have got
variable results, or failed of success. The explanation seems to be
that those who have obtained poor results have not allowed time for
the disinfectant to penetrate the pores of the wood, the method of
application being wrong. The solution is thrown into the tierce, which
is then steamed out at once, whereby the aldehyde is volatilized before
it has had time to do its work. If the formal and the steam, instead of
being used in succession, were used together, the steam would carry the
disinfectant into the pores of the wood. But a still better plan is to
give the aldehyde more time. {264}

Another point to be remembered in all cases of disinfection by
formaldehyde is that a mechanical cleansing must precede the action of
the antiseptic. If there are thick deposits of organic matter which
can be easily dislodged with a scrubbing brush, they can only be
disinfected by the use of large quantities of formaldehyde used during
a long period of time.

«General Disinfectants.»—

 I.—Alum 10 ounces
     Sodium carbonate     10 ounces
     Ammonium chloride     2 ounces
     Zinc chloride         1 ounce
     Sodium chloride       2 ounces
     Hydrochloric acid, quantity sufficient.
     Water to make 1 gallon.

Dissolve the alum in one half gallon of boiling water, and add the
sodium carbonate; then add hydrochloric acid until the precipitate
formed is dissolved. Dissolve the other salt in water and add to the
previous solution. Finally add enough water to make the whole measure 1
gallon, and filter.

In use, this is diluted with 7 parts of water.

II.—For the Sick Room.—In using this ventilate frequently: Guaiac, 10
parts; eucalyptol, 8 parts; phenol, 6 parts; menthol, 4 parts; thymol,
2 parts; oil of cloves, 1 part; alcohol of 90 per cent, 170 parts.

Atomizer Liquid for Sick Rooms.—

 III.—Eucalyptol              10 parts by weight
       Thyme oil                5 parts by weight
       Lemon oil                5 parts by weight
       Lavender oil             5 parts by weight
       Spirit, 90 per cent    110 parts by weight

To a pint of water a teaspoonful for evaporation.

Non-Poisonous Sheep Dips.—Paste.—

 I.—Creosote (containing 15 per cent
           to 20 per cent of carbolic acid)    2 parts
     Stearine or Yorkshire grease specific
           gravity, 1340                       1 part
     Black rosin, 5 per cent to 10 per cent.

Melt the rosin and add grease and soda lyes, and then add creosote cold.

 II.—Creosote                  1 part
      Crude hard rosin oil      1 part

Put rosin oil in copper and heat to about 220° F., and add as much
caustic soda powder, 98 per cent strength, as the oil will take up.
The quantity depends upon the amount of acetic acid in the oil. If too
much soda is added it will remain at the bottom. When the rosin oil has
taken up the soda add creosote, and let it stand.

«Odorless Disinfectants.»—

 I.—Ferric chloride          4 parts
     Zinc chloride            5 parts
     Aluminum chloride        5 parts
     Calcium chloride         4 parts
     Manganese chloride       3 parts
     Water                   69 parts

If desired, 10 grains thymol and 2 fluidrachms oil of rosemary,
previously dissolved in about 12 fluidrachms of alcohol, may be added
to each gallon.

 II.—Alum                   10 parts
      Sodium carbonate       10 parts
      Ammonium chloride       2 parts
      Sodium chloride         2 parts
      Zinc chloride           1 part
      Hydrochloric acid, sufficient.
      Water                 100 parts

Dissolve the alum in about 50 parts boiling water and add the sodium
carbonate. The resulting precipitate of aluminum hydrate dissolve
with the aid of just sufficient hydrochloric acid, and add the other
ingredients previously dissolved in the remainder of the water.

 III.—Mercuric chloride       1 part
       Cupric sulphate        10 parts
       Zinc sulphate          50 parts
       Sodium chloride        65 parts
       Water to make 1,000 parts.

«Paris Salts.»—The disinfectant known by this name is a mixture made
from the following recipe:

 Zinc sulphate            49 parts
 Ammonia alum             49 parts
 Potash permanganate       1 part
 Lime                      1 part

The ingredients are fused together, mixed with a little calcium
chloride, and perfumed with thymol.

«Platt’s Chlorides.»—

 I.—Aluminum sulphate      6 ounces
     Zinc chloride          1 1/2 ounces
     Sodium chloride        2 ounces
     Calcium chloride       3 ounces
     Water enough to make 2 pints.

II.—A more elaborate formula for a preparation said to resemble the
proprietary article is as follows: {265}

 Zinc, in strips            4 ounces
 Lead carbonate             2 ounces
 Chlorinated lime           1 ounce
 Magnesium carbonate      1/2 ounce
 Aluminum hydrate       1 1/2 ounces
 Potassium hydrate        1/2 ounce
 Hydrochloric acid         16 ounces
 Water                     16 ounces
 Whiting, enough.

Dissolve the zinc in the acid; then add the other salts singly in the
order named, letting each dissolve before the next is added. When
all are dissolved add the water to the solution, and after a couple
of hours add a little whiting to neutralize any excess of acid; then
filter.

Zinc chloride ranks very low among disinfectants, and the use of such
solutions as these, by giving a false sense of security from disease
germs, may be the means of spreading rather than of checking the spread
of sickness.

«Disinfecting Coating.»—Carbolic acid, 2 parts; manganese, 3 parts;
calcium chloride, 2 parts; china clay, 10 parts; infusorial earth, 4
parts; dextrin, 2 parts; and water, 10 parts.

DISTEMPER IN CATTLE: See Veterinary Formulas.

DIURETIC BALL: See Veterinary Formulas.

DOG APPLICATIONS: See Insecticides.

«DOG BISCUIT.»

The waste portions of meat and tallow, including the skin and fiber,
have for years been imported from South American tallow factories in
the form of blocks. Most of the dog bread consists principally of these
remnants, chopped and mixed with flour. They contain a good deal of
firm fibrous tissue, and a large percentage of fat, but are lacking
in nutritive salts, which must be added to make good dog bread, just
as in the case of the meat flour made from the waste of meat extract
factories. The flesh of dead animals is not used by any reputable
manufacturers, for the reason that it gives a dark color to the dough,
has an unpleasant odor, and if not properly sterilized would be
injurious to dogs as a steady diet.

Wheat flour, containing as little bran as possible, is generally
used, oats, rye, or Indian meal being only mixed in to make special
varieties, or, as in the case of Indian meal, for cheapness. Rye flour
would give a good flavor, but it dries slowly, and the biscuits would
have to go through a special process of drying after baking, else they
would mold and spoil. Dog bread must be made from good wheat flour, of
a medium sort, mixed with 15 or 16 per cent of sweet, dry chopped meat,
well baked and dried like pilot bread or crackers. This is the rule for
all the standard dog bread on the market. There are admixtures which
affect more or less its nutritive value, such as salt, vegetables,
chopped bones, or bone meal, phosphate of lime, and other nutritive
salts. In preparing the dough and in baking, care must be taken to keep
it light and porous.

DOG DISEASES AND THEIR REMEDIES: See Veterinary Formulas.

DOG SOAP: See Soap.

DONARITE: See Explosives.

DOORS, TO CLEAN: See Cleaning Preparations and Methods.

«DOSES FOR ADULTS AND CHILDREN.»

The usual method pursued by medical men in calculating the doses of
medicine for children is to average the dose in proportion to their
approximate weight or to figure out a dose upon the assumption that at
12 years of age half of an adult dose will be about right. Calculated
on this basis the doses for those under 12 will be in direct proportion
to the age in years plus 12, divided into the age. By this rule a child
1 year old should get 1 plus 12, or 13, dividing 1, or 1/13 of an
adult dose. If the child is 2 years old it should get 2 plus 12, or 14,
dividing 2, or 1/7 of an adult dose. A child of 3 years should get
3 plus 12, or 15, dividing 3, or 1/5 of an adult dose. A child of 4
should get 4 plus 12, or 16, dividing 4, or 1/4 of an adult dose.

As both children and adults vary materially in size when of the same
age the calculation by approximate weights is the more accurate way.
Taking the weight of the average adult as 150 pounds, then a boy, man,
or woman, whatever the age, weighing only 75 pounds should receive
only one-half of an adult dose, and a man of 300 pounds, provided his
weight is the result of a properly proportioned body, and not due to
mere adipose {266} tissue, should be double that of the average adult.
If the weight is due to mere fat or to some diseased condition of the
body, such a calculation would be entirely wrong. The object of the
calculation is to get as nearly as possible to the amount of dilution
the dose undergoes in the blood or in the intestinal contents of the
patient. Each volume of blood should receive exactly the same dose in
order to give the same results, other conditions being equal.

DOSE TABLE FOR VETERINARY PURPOSES: See Veterinary Formulas.

«DRAWINGS, PRESERVATION OF.»

Working designs and sketches are easily soiled and rendered unsuitable
for further use. This can be easily avoided by coating them with
collodion, to which 24 per cent of stearine from a good stearine candle
has been added. Lay the drawing on a glass plate or a board, and pour
on the collodion, as the photographer treats his plates. After 10 or
20 minutes the design will be dry and perfectly white, possessing a
dull luster, and being so well protected that it may be washed off with
water without fear of spoiling it.

DRAWINGS, TO CLEAN: See Cleaning Preparations and Methods.

DRIERS: See Siccatives.

DRILLING, LUBRICANT FOR: See Lubricants.

DRINKS FOR SUMMER AND WINTER: See Beverages.

DROPS, TABLE OF: See Tables.

DRYING OILS: See Oil.

DRY ROT: See Rot.

DUBBING FOR LEATHER: See Lubricants.

DUST-LAYING: See Oil.

DUST PREVENTERS AND DUST CLOTHS: See Household Formulas.

«Dyes»

In accordance with the requirements of dyers, many of the following
recipes describe dyes for large quantities of goods, but to make them
equally adapted for the use of private families they are usually given
in even quantities, so that it is an easy matter to ascertain the
quantity of materials required for dyeing, when once the weight of
the goods is known, the quantity of materials used being reduced in
proportion to the smaller quantity of goods.

Employ soft water for all dyeing purposes, if it can be procured,
using 4 gallons water to 1 pound of goods; for larger quantities a
little less water will do. Let all the implements used in dyeing be
kept perfectly clean. Prepare the goods by scouring well with soap and
water, washing out the soap well, and dipping in warm water, before
immersion in the dye or mordant. Goods should be well aired, rinsed,
and properly hung up after dyeing. Silks and fine goods should be
tenderly handled, otherwise injury to the fabric will result.

«Aniline Black.»—Water, 20 to 30 parts; chlorate of potassa, 1 part;
sal ammoniac, 1 part; chloride of copper, 1 part; aniline and
hydrochloric acid, each 1 part, previously mixed together. It is
essential that the preparation should be acid, and the more acid it is
the more rapid will be the production of the blacks; if too much so, it
may injure the fabric. The fabric or yarn is dried in ageing rooms at a
low temperature for 24 hours, and washed afterwards.

«Black on Cotton.»—For 40 pounds goods, use sumac, 30 pounds; boil
3/4 of an hour; let the goods steep overnight, and immerse them in
limewater, 40 minutes, remove, and allow them to drip 3/4 of an hour;
add copperas, 4 pounds, to the sumac liquor, and dip 1 hour more; next
work them through limewater for 20 minutes; then make a new dye of
logwood, 20 pounds, boil 2 1/2 hours, and enter the goods 3 hours;
then add bichromate of potash, 1 pound, to the new dye, and dip 1 hour
more. Work in clean cold water and dry out of the sun.

«Black Straw Hat Varnish.»—Best alcohol, 4 ounces; pulverized black
sealing wax, 1 ounce. Place in a phial, and put the phial into a warm
place, stirring or shaking occasionally until the wax is dissolved.
Apply it when warm before the fire or in the sun. This makes a
beautiful gloss. {267}

«Chrome Black for Wool.»—For 40 pounds of goods, use blue vitriol,
3 pounds; boil a short time, then dip the wool or fabric 3/4 of
an hour, airing frequently. Take out the goods, and make a dye with
logwood, 24 pounds; boil 1/2 hour, dip 3/4 of an hour, air the
goods, and dip 1/4 of an hour longer; then wash in strong soapsuds. A
good fast color.

«Black Dye on Wool, for Mixtures.»—For 50 pounds of wool, take
bichromate of potash, 1 pound, 4 ounces; ground argal, 15 ounces; boil
together and put in the fabric, stirring well, and let it remain in the
dye 5 hours. Take it out, rinse slightly in clean water, then make a
new dye, into which put logwood, 1 1/2 pounds. Boil 1 1/4 hours,
adding chamber lye, 5 pints. Let the fabric remain in all night, and
wash out in clean water.

«Bismarck Brown.»—Mix together 1 pound Bismarck, 5 gallons water, and
3/4 pound sulphuric acid. This paste dissolves easily in hot water
and may be used directly for dyeing. A liquid dye may be prepared by
making the bulk of the above mixture to 2 gallons with alcohol. To dye,
sour with sulphuric acid; add a quantity of sulphate of soda, immerse
the wool, and add the color by small portions, keeping the temperature
under 212° F. Very interesting shades may be developed by combining the
color with indigo paste or picric acid.

«Chestnut Brown for Straw Bonnets.»—For 25 hats, use ground sanders,
1 1/2 pounds; ground curcuma, 2 pounds; powdered gallnuts or sumac,
3/4 pound; rasped logwood, 1/10 pound. Boil together with the hats
in a large kettle (so as not to crowd), for 2 hours, then withdraw the
hats, rinse, and let them remain overnight in a bath of nitrate of 4°
Bé., when they are washed. A darker brown may be obtained by increasing
the quantity of sanders. To give the hats the desired luster, they are
brushed with a brush of couchgrass, when dry.

«Cinnamon or Brown for Cotton and Silk.»—Give the goods as much color,
from a solution of blue vitriol, 2 ounces, to water, 1 gallon, as they
will take up in dipping 15 minutes; then turn them through limewater.
This will make a beautiful sky blue of much durability. The fabric
should next be run through a solution of prussiate of potash, 1 ounce,
to water, 1 gallon.

«Brown Dye for Cotton or Linen.»—Give the pieces a mixed mordant of
acetate of alumina and acetate of iron, and then dye them in a bath of
madder, or madder and fustic. When the acetate of alumina predominates,
the dye has an amaranth tint. A cinnamon tint is obtained by first
giving a mordant of alum, next a madder bath, then a bath of fustic, to
which a little green copperas has been added.

«Brown for Silk.»—Dissolve annatto, 1 pound; pearlash, 4 pounds, in
boiling water, and pass the silk through it for 2 hours; then take
it out, squeeze well, and dry. Next give it a mordant of alum, and
pass through a bath of brazil wood, and afterwards through a bath of
logwood, to which a little green copperas has been added; wring it out
and dry; afterwards rinse well.

«Brown Dye for Wool.»—This may be induced by a decoction of oak bark,
with variety of shade according to the quantity employed. If the goods
be first passed through a mordant of alum the color will be brightened.

«Brown for Cotton.»—Catechu or terra japonica gives cotton a brown
color; blue vitriol turns it to the bronze; green copperas darkens it,
when applied as a mordant and the stuff is boiled in the bath. Acetate
of alumina as a mordant brightens it. The French color Carmelite is
given with catechu, 1 pound; verdigris, 4 ounces; and sal ammoniac, 5
ounces.

«Dark Snuff Brown for Wool.»—For 50 pounds of goods, take camwood, 10
pounds, boil for 20 minutes, then dip the goods for 3/4 of an hour;
take them out, and add to the dye, fustic, 25 pounds, boil 12 minutes,
and dip the goods 3/4 of an hour; then add blue vitriol, 10 ounces,
copperas, 2 pounds, 8 ounces; dip again 40 minutes. Add more copperas
if the shade is required darker.

«Brown for Wool and Silk.»—Infusion or decoction of walnut peels
dyes wool and silk a brown color, which is brightened by alum.
Horse-chestnut peels also impart a brown color; a mordant of muriate of
tin turns it on the bronze, and sugar of lead the reddish brown.

«Alkali Blue and Nicholson’s Blue.»—Dissolve 1 pound of the dye in 10
gallons boiling water, and add this by small portions to the dye bath,
which should be rendered alkaline by borax. The fabric should be well
worked about between each addition of the color. The temperature must
be kept under 212° F. To develop the color, wash with water {268} and
pass through a bath containing sulphuric acid.

«Aniline Blue.»—To 100 pounds of fabric, dissolve 1 1/4 pounds
aniline blue in 3 quarts hot alcohol, strain through a filter, and add
it to a bath of 130° F.; also 10 pounds Glauber’s salts, and 5 pounds
acetic acid. Immerse the goods and handle them well for 20 minutes.
Next heat slowly to 200° F.; then add 5 pounds sulphuric acid diluted
with water. Let the whole boil 20 minutes longer; then rinse and dry.
If the aniline be added in 2 or 3 proportions during the process of
coloring, it will facilitate the evenness of the color.

«Blue on Cotton.»—For 40 pounds of goods, use copperas, 2 pounds; boil
and dip 20 minutes; dip in soapsuds, and return to the dye 3 or 4
times; then make a new bath with prussiate of potash, 1/2 pound; oil
of vitriol, 1 1/4 pints; boil 1/2 hour, rinse out and dry.

«Sky Blue on Cotton.»—For 60 pounds of goods, blue vitriol, 5 pounds.
Boil a short time, then enter the goods, dip 3 hours, and transfer to
a bath of strong limewater. A fine brown color will be imparted to the
goods if they are then put through a solution of prussiate of potash.

«Blue Dye for Hosiery.»—One hundred pounds of wool are colored with 4
pounds Guatemala or 3 pounds Bengal indigo, in the soda or wood vat.
Then boil in a kettle a few minutes, 5 pounds of cudbear or 8 pounds
of archil paste; add 1 pound of soda, or, better, 1 pail of urine;
then cool the dye to about 170° F. and enter the wool. Handle well for
about 20 minutes, then take it out, cool, rinse, and dry. It makes no
difference whether the cudbear is put in before or after the indigo.
Three ounces of aniline purple dissolved in alcohol, 1/2 pint, can be
used instead of the cudbear. Wood spirit is cheaper than alcohol, and
is much used by dyers for the purpose of dissolving aniline colors. It
produces a very pretty shade, but should never be used on mixed goods
which have to be bleached.

«Dark-Blue Dye.»—This dye is suitable for thibets and lastings. Boil
100 pounds of the fabric for 1 1/2 hours in a solution of alum,
25 pounds; tartar, 4 pounds; mordant, 6 pounds; extract of indigo,
6 pounds; cool as usual. Boil in fresh water from 8 to 10 pounds of
logwood, in a bag or otherwise, then cool the dye to 170° F. Reel the
fabric quickly at first, then let it boil strongly for 1 hour. This is
a very good imitation of indigo blue.

«Saxon Blue.»—For 100 pounds thibet or comb yarn, use alum, 20 pounds;
cream of tartar, 3 pounds; mordant, 2 pounds; extract of indigo,
3 pounds; or carmine, 1 pound, makes a better color. When all is
dissolved, cool the kettle to 180° F.; enter and handle quickly at
first, then let the fabric boil 1/2 hour, or until even. Long boiling
dims the color. Zephyr worsted yarn ought to be prepared, first, by
boiling it in a solution of alum and sulphuric acid; the indigo is
added afterwards.

«Logwood and Indigo Blue.»—For 100 pounds of cloth. Color the cloth
first by one or two dips in the vat of indigo blue, and rinse it well,
and then boil it in a solution of 20 pounds of alum, 2 pounds of
half-refined tartar, and 5 pounds of mordant, for 2 hours; finally take
it out and cool. In fresh water boil 10 pounds of good logwood for half
an hour in a bag or otherwise; cool off to 170° F. before entering.
Handle well over a reel, let it boil for half an hour; then take it
out, cool and rinse. This is a very firm blue.

«Blue Purple for Silk.»—For 40 pounds of goods, take bichromate of
potash, 8 ounces; alum, 1 pound; dissolve all and bring the water to a
boil, and put in the goods; boil 1 hour. Then empty the dye, and make
a new dye with logwood, 8 pounds, or extract of logwood, 1 pound 4
ounces, and boil in this 1 hour longer. Grade the color by using more
or less logwood, as dark or light color is wanted.

«Blue Purple for Wool.»—One hundred pounds of wool are first dipped in
the blue vat to a light shade, then boiled in a solution of 15 pounds
of alum and 3 pounds of half-refined tartar, for 1 1/2 hours, the
wool taken out, cooled, and let stand 24 hours. Then boil in fresh
water 8 pounds of powdered cochineal for a few minutes, cool the kettle
to 170° F. Handle the prepared wool in this for 1 hour, when it is
ready to cool, rinse and dry. By coloring first with cochineal, as
aforesaid, and finishing in the blue vat, the fast purple or dahlia, so
much admired in German broadcloths, will be produced. Tin acids must
not be used in this color.

«To Make Extract of Indigo Blue.»—Take of vitriol, 2 pounds, and stir
into it finely pulverized indigo, 8 ounces, stirring briskly for the
first half hour; then {269} cover up, and stir 4 or 5 times daily for
a few days. Add a little pulverized chalk, stirring it up, and keep
adding it as long as it foams; it will neutralize the acid. Keep it
closely corked.

«Light Silver Drab.»—For 50 pounds of goods, use logwood, 1/2 pound;
alum, about the same quantity; boil well, enter the goods, and dip them
for 1 hour. Grade the color to any desired shade by using equal parts
of logwood and alum.

«GRAY DYES:»

«Slate Dye for Silk.»—For a small quantity, take a pan of warm water
and about a teacupful of logwood liquor, pretty strong, and a piece of
pearlash the size of a nut; take gray-colored goods and handle a little
in this liquid, and it is finished. If too much logwood is used, the
color will be too dark.

«Slate for Straw Hats.»—First, soak in rather strong warm suds for 15
minutes to remove sizing or stiffening; then rinse in warm water to get
out the soap. Scald cudbear, 1 ounce, in sufficient water to cover the
hat; work it in this dye at 180° F., until a light purple is obtained.
Have a vessel of cold water, blued with the extract of indigo, 1/2
ounce, and work or stir the bonnet in this until the tint pleases. Dry,
then rinse out with cold water, and dry again in the shade. If the
purple is too deep in shade the final slate will be too dark.

«Silver Gray for Straw.»—For 25 hats, select the whitest hats and
soften them in a bath of crystallized soda to which some clean
limewater has been added. Boil for 2 hours in a large vessel, using for
a bath a decoction of the following: Alum, 4 pounds; tartaric acid,
3/8 pound; some ammoniacal cochineal, and carmine of indigo. A little
sulphuric acid may be necessary in order to neutralize the alkali of
the cochineal dye. If the last-mentioned ingredients are used, let
the hats remain for an hour longer in the boiling bath, then rinse in
slightly acidulated water.

«Dark Steel.»—Mix black and white wool together in the proportion of
50 pounds of black wool to 7 1/2 pounds of white. For large or small
quantities, keep the same proportion, mixing carefully and thoroughly.

«GREEN DYES:»

«Aniline Green for Silk.»—Iodine green or night green dissolves easily
in warm water. For a liquid dye 1 pound may be dissolved in 1 gallon
alcohol, and mixed with 2 gallons water, containing 1 ounce sulphuric
acid.

«Aniline Green for Wool.»—Prepare two baths, one containing the
dissolved dye and a quantity of carbonate of soda or borax. In this
the wool is placed, and the temperature raised to 212° F. A grayish
green is produced, which must be brightened and fixed in a second bath
of water 100° F., to which some acetic acid has been added. Cotton
requires preparation by sumac.

«Green for Cotton.»—For 40 pounds of goods, use fustic, 10 pounds; blue
vitriol, 10 ounces; soft soap, 2 1/2 quarts; and logwood chips, 1
pound 4 ounces. Soak the logwood overnight in a brass vessel, and put
it on the fire in the morning, adding the other ingredients. When quite
hot it is ready for dyeing; enter the goods at once, and handle well.
Different shades may be obtained by letting part of the goods remain
longer in the dye.

«Green for Silk.»—Boil green ebony in water, and let it settle. Take
the clear liquor as hot as the hands can bear, and handle the goods in
it until of a bright yellow. Take water and put in a little sulphate of
indigo; handle goods in this till of the shade desired. The ebony may
previously be boiled in a bag to prevent it from sticking to the silk.

«Green for Wool and Silk.»—Take equal quantities of yellow oak and
hickory bark, make a strong yellow bath by boiling, and shade to the
desired tint by adding a small quantity of extract of indigo.

«Green Fustic Dye.»—For 50 pounds of goods, use 50 pounds of fustic
with alum, 11 pounds. Soak in water until the strength is extracted,
put in the goods until of a good yellow color, remove the chips, and
add extract of indigo in small quantities at a time, until the color is
satisfactory.

«PURPLE AND VIOLET DYES:»

«Aniline Violet and Purple.»—Acidulate the bath by sulphuric acid, or
use sulphate of soda; both these substances render the shade bluish.
Dye at 212° F. To give a fair middle shade to 10 pounds of wool, a
quantity of solution equal to 1/2 to 3/4 ounces of the solid dye
will be required. The color of the dyed fabric is improved by washing
in soap and water, and then passing through a bath soured by sulphuric
acid.

«Purple.»—For 40 pounds of goods, use {270} alum, 3 pounds; muriate
of tin, 4 teacups; pulverized cochineal, 1 pound; cream of tartar, 2
pounds. Boil the alum, tin, and cream of tartar, for 20 minutes, add
the cochineal and boil 5 minutes; immerse the goods 2 hours; remove and
enter them in a new dye composed of brazil wood, 3 pounds; logwood, 7
pounds; alum, 4 pounds, and muriate of tin, 8 cupfuls, adding a little
extract of indigo.

«Purple for Cotton.»—Get up a tub of hot logwood liquor, enter 3
pieces, give them 5 ends, and hedge out. Enter them in a clean alum
tub, give them 5 ends, and hedge out. Get up another tub of logwood
liquor, enter, give them 5 ends, and hedge out; renew the alum tub,
give 5 ends in that, and finish.

«Purple for Silk.»—For 10 pounds of goods, enter the goods in a blue
dye bath, and secure a light-blue color, dry, and dip in a warm
solution containing alum, 2 1/2 pounds. Should a deeper color be
required, add a little extract of indigo.

«Solferino and Magenta for Woolen, Silk, or Cotton.»—For 1 pound of
woolen goods, magenta shade, 96 grains, apothecaries’ weight, of
aniline red, will be required. Dissolve in a little warm alcohol,
using, say, 6 fluidounces, or about 6 gills alcohol per ounce of
aniline. Many dyers use wood spirits because of its cheapness. For a
solferino shade, use 64 grains aniline red, and dissolve in 4 ounces
alcohol, to each 1 pound of goods. Cold water, 1 quart, will dissolve
these small quantities of aniline red, but the cleanest and quickest
way will be found by using the alcohol, or wood spirits. Clean the
cloth and goods by steeping at a gentle heat in weak soapsuds, rinse
in several masses of clean water and lay aside moist. The alcoholic
solution of aniline is to be added from time to time to the warm or
hot dye bath, till the color on the goods is of the desired shade. The
goods are to be removed from the dye bath before each addition of the
alcoholic solution, and the bath is to be well stirred before the goods
are returned. The alcoholic solution should be first dropped into a
little water, and well mixed, and the mixture should then be strained
into the dye bath. If the color is not dark enough after working from
20 to 30 minutes, repeat the removal of the goods from the bath, and
the addition of the solution, and the re-immersion of the goods from
15 to 30 minutes more, or until suited, then remove from the bath and
rinse in several masses of clean water, and dry in the shade. Use about
4 gallons water for dye bath for 1 pound of goods; less water for
larger quantities.

«Violet for Silk or Wool.»—A good violet dye may be given by passing
the goods first through a solution of verdigris, then through a
decoction of logwood, and lastly through alum water. A fast violet may
be given by dyeing the goods crimson with cochineal, without alum or
tartar, and after rinsing passing them through the indigo vat. Linens
or cottons are first galled with 18 per cent of gallnuts, next passed
through a mordant of alum, iron liquor, and sulphate of copper, working
them well, then worked in a madder bath made with an equal weight of
root, and lastly brightened with soap or soda.

«Violet for Straw Bonnets.»—Take alum, 4 pounds; tartaric acid, 1
pound; chloride of tin, 1 pound. Dissolve and boil, allowing the hats
to remain in the boiling solution 2 hours; then add enough decoction
of logwood, carmine, and indigo to induce the desired shade, and rinse
finally in water in which some alum has been dissolved.

«Wine Color.»—For 50 pounds of goods, use camwood, 10 pounds, and boil
20 minutes; dip the goods 1/2 hour, boil again, and dip 40 minutes;
then darken with blue vitriol, 15 ounces, and 5 pounds of copperas.

«Lilac for Silk.»—For 5 pounds of silk, use archil, 7 1/2 pounds,
and mix well with the liquor. Make it boil 1 hour, and dip the silk
quickly; then let it cool, and wash in river water. A fine half violet,
or lilac, more or less full, will be obtained.

«RED, CRIMSON, AND PINK DYES:»

«Aniline Red.»—Inclose the aniline in a small muslin bag. Have a kettle
(tin or brass) filled with moderately hot water and rub the substance
out. Then immerse the goods to be colored, and in a short time they are
done. It improves the color to wring the goods out of strong soapsuds
before putting them in the dye. This is a permanent color on wool or
silk.

«Red Madder.»—To 100 pounds of fabric, use 20 pounds of alum, 5 pounds
of tartar, and 5 pounds of muriate of tin. When these are dissolved,
enter the goods and let them boil for 2 hours, then take out, let cool,
and lay overnight. Into fresh water, stir 75 pounds of good {271}
madder, and enter the fabric at 120° F. and bring it up to 200° F. in
the course of an hour. Handle well to secure evenness, then rinse and
dry.

«Red for Wool.»—For 40 pounds of goods, make a tolerably thick paste of
lac dye and sulphuric acid, and allow it to stand for a day. Then take
tartar, 4 pounds, tin liquor, 2 pounds 8 ounces, and 3 pounds of the
paste; make a hot bath with sufficient water, and enter the goods for
3/4 hour; afterwards carefully rinse and dry.

«Crimson for Silk.»—For 1 pound of goods, use alum, 3 ounces; dip
at hand heat 1 hour; take out and drain, while making a new dye, by
boiling for 10 minutes, cochineal, 3 ounces; bruised nutgalls, 2
ounces; and cream of tartar, 1/2 ounce, in 1 pail of water. When a