Auchinleck before dinner.

My father was not quite a year and a half older than Dr Johnson; but
his conscientious discharge of his laborious duty as a judge in
Scotland, where the law proceedings are almost all in writing, a
severe complaint which ended in his death, and the loss of my mother,
a woman of almost unexampled piety and goodness, had before this time
in some degree affected his spirits, and rendered him less disposed to
exert his faculties: for he had originally a very strong mind, and
cheerful temper. He assured me, he never had felt one moment of what
is called low spirits, or uneasiness, without a real cause. He had a
great many good stories, which he told uncommonly well, and he was
remarkable for 'humour, incolumi gravitate', as Lord Monboddo used to
characterize it. His age, his office, and his character, had long
given him an acknowledged claim to great attention, in whatever
company he was; and he could ill brook any diminution of it. He was as
sanguine a Whig and Presbyterian, as Dr Johnson was a Tory and Church
of England man: and as he had not much leisure to be informed of Dr
Johnson's great merits by reading his works, he had a partial and
unfavourable notion of him, founded on his supposed political tenets;
which were so discordant to his own, that, instead of speaking of him
with respect to which he was entitled, he used to call him 'a JACOBITE
FELLOW'. Knowing all this, I should not have ventured to bring them
together, had not my father, out of kindness to me, desired me to
invite Dr Johnson his house.

I was very anxious that all should be well; and begged of my friend to
avoid three topicks, as to which they differed very widely; Whiggism,
Presbyterianism, and--Sir John Pringle. He said courteously, 'I shall
certainly not talk on subjects which I am told are disagreeable to a
gentleman under whose roof I am; especially, I shall not do so to YOUR
FATHER.'

Our first day went off very smoothly. It rained, and we could not get
out; but my father shewed Dr Johnson his library, which, in curious
editions of the Greek and Roman classicks, is, I suppose, not excelled
by any private collection in Great Britain. My father had studied at
Leyden, and been very intimate with the Gronovii, and other learned
men there. He was a sound scholar, and, in particular, had collated
manuscripts and different editions of Anacreon, and others of the
Greek lyrick poets, with great care; so that my friend and he had much
matter for conversation, without touching on the fatal topicks of
difference.

Dr Johnson found here Baxter's Anacreon, which he told me he had long
inquired for in vain, and began to suspect there was no such book.
Baxter was the keen antagonist of Barnes. His life is in the
Biographia Britannica. My father has written many notes on this book,
and Dr Johnson and I talked of having it reprinted.

Wednesday, 3d November

It rained all day, and gave Dr Johnson an impression of that
incommodiousness of climate in the west, of which he has taken notice
in his Journey; but, being well accommodated, and furnished with
variety of books, he was not dissatisfied.

Some gentlemen of the neighbourhood came to visit my father; but there
was little conversation. One of them asked Dr Johnson how he liked the
Highlands. The question seemed to irritate him, for he answered, 'How,
sir, can you ask me what obliges me to speak unfavourably of a country
where I have been hospitably entertained? Who CAN like the Highlands?
--I like the inhabitants very well.' The gentleman asked no more
questions.

Let me now make up for the present neglect, by again gleaning from the
past. At Lord Monboddo's, after the conversation upon the decrease of
learning in England, his Lordship mentioned Hermes by Mr Harris of
Salisbury, as the work of a living authour, for whom he had a great
respect. Dr Johnson said nothing at the time; but when we were in our
post-chaise, told me, he thought Harris 'a coxcomb'. This he said of
him, not as a man, but as an authour; and I give his opinions of men
and books, faithfully, whether they agree with my own, or not. I do
admit, that there always appeared to me something of affectation in Mr
Harris's manner of writing; something of a habit of clothing plain
thoughts in analytick and categorical formality. But all his writings
are imbued with learning; and all breathe that philanthropy and
amiable disposition, which distinguished him as a man. [Footnote: This
gentleman, though devoted to the study of grammar and dialecticks, was
not so absorbed in it as to be without a sense of pleasantry, or to be
offended at his favourite topicks being treated lightly. I one day met
him in the street, as I was hastening to the House of Lords, and told
him, I was sorry I could not stop, being rather too late to attend an
appeal of the Duke of Hamilton against Douglas. 'I thought,' said he,
'their contest had been over long ago.' I answered, 'The contest
concerning Douglas's filiation was over long ago; but the contest now
is, who shall have the estate.' Then, assuming the air of 'an antient
sage philosopher', I proceeded thus: 'Were I to PREDICATE concerning
him, I should say, the contest formerly was, What IS he? The contest
now is, What HAS he?' 'Right,' replied Mr Harris, smiling, 'you have
done with QUALITY, and have got into QUANTITY.']

At another time, during our tour, he drew the character of a rapacious
Highland chief with the strength of Theophrastus or la Bruyere;
concluding with these words: 'Sir, he has no more the soul of a chief,
than an attorney who has twenty houses in a street, and considers how
much he can make by them.'

He this day, when we were by ourselves, observed, how common it was
for people to talk from books; to retail the sentiments of others, and
not their own; in short, to converse without any originality of
thinking. He was pleased to say, 'You and I do not talk from books.'

Thursday, 4th November

I was glad to have at length a very fine day, on which I could shew Dr
Johnson the place of my family, which he has honoured with so much
attention in his Journey. He is, however, mistaken in thinking that
the Celtick name, Auchinleck, has no relation to the natural
appearance of it. I believe every Celtick name of a place will be
found very descriptive. Auchinleck does not signify a 'stony field',
as he has said, but a 'field of flag stones'; and this place has a
number of rocks, which abound in strata of that kind. The 'sullen
dignity of the old castle', as he has forcibly expressed it, delighted
him exceedingly. On one side of the rock on which its ruins stand,
runs the river Lugar, which is here of considerable breadth, and is
bordered by other high rocks, shaded with wood. On the other side runs
a brook, skirted in the same manner, but on a smaller scale. I cannot
figure a more romantick scene.

I felt myself elated here, and expatiated to my illustrious mentor on
the antiquity and honourable alliances of my family, and on the merits
of its founder, Thomas Boswell, who was highly favoured by his
sovereign, James IV of Scotland, and fell with him at the battle of
Flodden field; and in the glow of what, I am sensible, will, in a
commercial age, be considered as genealogical enthusiasm, did not omit
to mention what I was sure my friend would not think lightly of, my
relation to the Royal Personage, whose liberality, on his accession to
the throne, had given him comfort and independence. I have, in a
former page, acknowledged my pride of ancient blood, in which I was
encouraged by Dr Johnson: my readers therefore will not be surprised
at my having indulged it on this occasion.

Not far from the old castle is a spot of consecrated earth, on which
may be traced the foundations of an ancient chapel, dedicated to St
Vincent, and where in old times 'was the place of graves' for the
family. It grieves me to think that the remains of sanctity here,
which were considerable, were dragged away, and employed in building a
part of the house of Auchinleck, of the middle age; which was the
family residence, till my father erected that 'elegant modern
mansion', of which Dr Johnson speaks so handsomely. Perhaps this
chapel may one day be restored.

Dr Johnson was pleased, when I shewed him some venerable old trees,
under the shade of which my ancestors had walked. He exhorted me to
plant assiduously, as my father had done to a great extent.

As I wandered with my reverend friend in the groves of Auchinleck, I
told him, that, if I survived him, it was my intention to erect a
monument to him here, among scenes which, in my mind, were all
classical; for in my youth I had appropriated to them many of the
descriptions of the Roman poets. He could not bear to have death
presented to him in any shape; for his constitutional melancholy made
the king of terrours more frightful. He turned off the subject,
saying, 'Sir, I hope to see your grand-children!'

This forenoon he observed some cattle without horns, of which he has
taken notice in his Journey, and seems undecided whether they be of a
particular race. His doubts appear to have had no foundation; for my
respectable neighbour, Mr Fairlie, who, with all his attention to
agriculture, finds time both for the Classicks and his friends,
assures me they are a distinct species, and that, when any of their
calves have horns, a mixture of breed can be traced. In confirmation
of his opinion, he pointed out to me the following passage in Tacitus,
Ne armentis quidem suus honor, aut gloria frontis (De mor. Germ.
Section 5) which he wondered had escaped Dr Johnson.

On the front of the house of Auchinleck is this inscription:

  ... Quod petis, hic est;
  Est Ulubris, animus si te non deficit aequus.

It is characteristick of the founder; but the animus aequus is, alas!
not inheritable, nor the subject of devise. He always talked to me as
if it were in a man's own power to attain it; but Dr Johnson told me
that he owned to him, when they were alone, his persuasion that it was
in a great measure constitutional, or the effect of causes which do
not depend on ourselves, and that Horace boasts too much, when he
says, aequum mi animum ipse parabo.

Friday, 5th November

The Reverend Mr Dun, our parish minister, who had dined with us
yesterday, with some other company, insisted that Dr Johnson and I
should dine with him to-day. This gave me an opportunity to shew my
friend the road to the church, made by my father at a great expence,
for above three miles, on his own estate, through a range of well
enclosed farms, with a row of trees on each side of it. He called it
the Via sacra, and was very fond of it. Dr Johnson, though he held
notions far distant from those of the Presbyterian clergy, yet could
associate on good terms with them. He indeed occasionally attacked
them. One of them discovered a narrowness of information concerning
the dignitaries of the Church of England, among whom may be found men
of the greatest learning, virtue, and piety, and of a truly apostolic
character. He talked before Dr Johnson, of fat bishops and drowsy
deans; and, in short, seemed to believe the illiberal and profane
scoffings of professed satyrists, or vulgar railers. Dr Johnson was so
highly offended, that he said to him, 'Sir, you know no more of our
church than a Hottentot.' I was sorry that he brought this upon
himself.

Saturday, 6th November

I cannot be certain, whether it was on this day, or a former, that Dr
Johnson and my father came in collision. If I recollect right, the
contest began while my father was shewing him his collection of
medals; and Oliver Cromwell's coin unfortunately introduced Charles
the First, and Toryism. They became exceedingly warm, and violent, and
I was very much distressed by being present at such an altercation
between the two men, both of whom I reverenced; yet I durst not
interfere. It would certainly be very unbecoming in me to exhibit my
honoured father, and my respected friend, as intellectual gladiators,
for the entertainment of the publick; and therefore I suppress what
would, I dare say, make an interesting scene in this dramatick sketch
this account of the transit of Johnson over the Caledonian hemisphere.

Yet I think I may, without impropriety, mention one circumstance, as
an instance of my father's address. Dr Johnson challenged him, as he
did us all at Talisker, to point out any theological works of merit
written by Presbyterian ministers in Scotland. My father, whose
studies did not lie much in that way, owned to me afterwards, that he
was somewhat at a loss how to answer, but that luckily he recollected
having read in catalogues the title of Durham On the Galatians; upon
which he boldly said, 'Pray, sir, have you read Mr Durham's excellent
commentary on the Galatians?' 'No, sir,' said Dr Johnson. By this
lucky thought my father kept him at bay, and for some time enjoyed his
triumph; but his antagonist soon made a retort, which I forbear to
mention.

In the course of their altercation, Whiggism and Presbyterianism,
Toryism and Episcopacy, were terribly buffeted. My worthy hereditary
friend, Sir John Pringle, never having been mentioned, happily escaped
without a bruise.

My father's opinion of Dr Johnson may be conjectured from the name he
afterwards gave him, which was Ursa Major. But it is not true, as has
been reported, that it was in consequence of my saying that he was a
CONSTELLATION of genius and literature. It was a sly abrupt expression
to one of his brethren on the bench of the Court of Session, in which
Dr Johnson was then standing; but it was not said in his hearing.

Sunday, 7th November

My father and I went to publick worship in our parish-church, in which
I regretted that Dr Johnson would not join us; for, though we have
there no form of prayer, nor magnificent solemnity, yet, as God is
worshipped in spirit and in truth, and the same doctrines preached as
in the Church of England, my friend would certainly have shewn more
liberality, had he attended. I doubt not, however, but he employed his
time in private to very good purpose. His uniform and fervent piety
was manifested on many occasions during our tour, which I have not
mentioned. His reason for not joining in Presbyterian worship has been
recorded in a former page.

Monday, 8th November

Notwithstanding the altercation that had passed, my father who had the
dignified courtesy of an old Baron, was very civil to Dr Johnson, and
politely attended him to the post-chaise, which was to convey us to
Edinburgh.

Thus they parted. They are now in another, and a higher, state of
existence: and as they were both worthy Christian men, I trust they
have met in happiness. But I must observe, in justice to my friend's
political principles, and my own, that they have met in a place where
there is no room for Whiggism.

We came at night to a good inn at Hamilton. I recollect no more.

Tuesday, 9th November

I wished to have shewn Dr Johnson the Duke of Hamilton's house,
commonly called the Palace of Hamilton, which is close by the town. It
is an object which, having been pointed out to me as a splendid
edifice, from my earliest years, in travelling between Auchinleck and
Edinburgh, has still great grandeur in my imagination. My friend
consented to stop, and view the outside of it, but could not be
persuaded to go into it.

We arrived this night at Edinburgh, after an absence of eighty-three
days. For five weeks together, of the tempestuous season, there had
been no account received of us. I cannot express how happy I was on
finding myself again at home.

Wednesday, 10th November

Old Mr Drummond, the bookseller, came to breakfast. Dr Johnson and he
had not met for ten years. There was respect on his side, and kindness
on Dr Johnson's. Soon afterwards Lord Elibank came in, and was much
pleased at seeing Dr Johnson in Scotland. His lordship said, 'hardly
any thing seemed to him more improbable'. Dr Johnson had a very high
opinion of him. Speaking of him to me, he characterized him thus:
'Lord Elibank has read a great deal. It is true, I can find in books
all that he has read; but he has a great deal of what is in books,
proved by the test of real life.' Indeed, there have been few men
whose conversation discovered more knowledge enlivened by fancy. He
published several small pieces of distinguished merit; and has left
some in manuscript, in particular an account of the expedition against
Carthagena, in which he served as an officer in the army. His writings
deserve to be collected. He was the early patron of Dr Robertson, the
historian, and Mr Home, the tragick poet; who, when they we were
ministers of country parishes, lived near his seat. He told me, 'I saw
these lads had talents, and they were much with me.' I hope they will
pay a grateful tribute to his memory.

The morning was chiefly taken up by Dr Johnson's giving him an account
of our tour. The subject of difference in political principles was
introduced. JOHNSON. 'It is much increased by opposition. There was a
violent Whig, with whom I used to contend with great eagerness. After
his death I felt my Toryism much abated.' I suppose he meant Mr
Walmsley of Lichfield, whose character he has drawn so well in his
life of Edmund Smith.

Mr Nairne came in, and he and I accompanied Dr Johnson to Edinburgh
castle, which he owned was 'a great place'. But I must mention, as a
striking instance of that spirit of contradiction to which he had a
strong propensity, when Lord Elibank was some days after talking of it
with the natural elation of a Scotchman, or of any man who is proud of
a stately fortress in his own country, Dr Johnson affected to despise
it, observing that, 'it would make a good PRISON in ENGLAND'.

Lest it should be supposed that I have suppressed one of his sallies
against my country, it may not be improper here to correct a mistaken
account that has been circulated, as to his conversation this day. It
has been said, that being desired to attend to the noble prospect from
the Castle Hill, he replied, 'Sir, the noblest prospect that a
Scotchman ever sees, is the high road that leads him to London.' This
lively sarcasm was thrown out at a tavern in London, in my presence,
many years before.

We had with us to day at dinner, at my house, the Lady Dowager
Colvill, and Lady Anne Erskine, sisters of the Earl of Kelly; the
Honourable Archibald Erskine, who has now succeeded to that title;
Lord Elibank; the Reverend Dr Blair; Mr Tytler, the acute vindicator
of Mary Queen of Scots, and some other friends.

Fingal being talked of, Dr Johnson, who used to boast that he had,
from the first, resisted both Ossian and the giants of Patagonia,
averred his positive disbelief of its authenticity. Lord Elibank said,
'I am sure it is not McPherson's. Mr Johnson, I keep company a great
deal with you; it is known I do. I may borrow from you better things
than I can say myself, and give them as my own; but, if I should,
every body will know whose they are.' The Doctor was not softened by
this compliment. He denied merit to Fingal, supposing it to be the
production of a man who has had the advantages that the present age
affords; and said, 'nothing is more easy than to write enough in that
style if once you begin'. [Footnote: I desire not to be understood as
agreeing ENTIRELY with the opinions of Dr Johnson, which I relate
without any remark. The many imitations, however, of Fingal, that have
been published, confirm this observation in a considerable degree.]
One gentleman in company expressing his opinion 'that Fingal was
certainly genuine, for that he had heard a great part of it repeated
in the original', Dr Johnson indignantly asked him, whether he
understood the original; to which an answer being given in the
negative, 'Why then,' said Dr Johnson, 'we see to what THIS testimony
comes: thus it is.'

I mentioned this as a remarkable proof how liable the mind of man is
to credulity, when not guarded by such strict examination as that
which Dr Johnson habitually practised. The talents and integrity of
the gentleman who made the remark, are unquestionable; yet, had not Dr
Johnson made him advert to the consideration, that he who does not
understand a language, cannot know that something which is recited to
him is in that language, he might have believed, and reported to this
hour, that he had 'heard a great part of Fingal repeated in the
original'.

For the satisfaction of those on the north of the Tweed, who may think
Dr Johnson's account of Caledonian credulity and inaccuracy too
strong, it is but fair to add, that he admitted the same kind of ready
belief might be found in his own country. 'He would undertake,' he
said, 'to write an epick poem on the story of Robin Hood, and half
England, to whom the names and places he should mention in it are
familiar, would believe and declare they had heard it from their
earliest years.'

One of his objections to the authenticity of Fingal, during the
conversation at Ulinish, is omitted in my Journal, but I perfectly
recollect it. 'Why is not the original deposited in some publick
library, instead of exhibiting attestations of its existence? Suppose
there were a question in a court of justice, whether a man be dead or
alive. You aver he is alive, and you bring fifty witnesses to swear
it: I answer, "Why do you not produce the man "' This is an argument
founded on one of the first principles of the LAW OF EVIDENCE, which
Gilbert would have held to be irrefragable.

I do not think it incumbent on me to give any precise decided opinion
upon this question, as to which I believe more than some, and less
than others. The subject appears to have now become very uninteresting
to the publick. That Fingal is not from beginning to end a translation
from the Gallick, but that some passages have been supplied by the
editor to connect the whole, I have heard admitted by very warm
advocates for its authenticity. If this be the case, why are not these
distinctly ascertained? Antiquaries, and admirers of the work, may
complain, that they are in a situation similar to that of the unhappy
gentleman whose wife informed him, on her death-bed, that one of their
reputed children was not his; and, when he eagerly begged her to
declare which of them it was, she answered, 'THAT you shall never
know', and expired, leaving him in irremediable doubt as to them all.

I beg leave to say something upon second sight, of which I have
related two instances, as they impressed my mind at the time. I own, I
returned from the Hebrides with a considerable degree of faith in the
many stories of that kind which I heard with a too easy acquiescence,
without any clear examination of the evidence: but, since that time,
my belief in those stories has been much weakened, by reflecting on
the careless inaccuracy of narrative in common matters, from which we
may certainly conclude that these may be the same in what is more
extraordinary. It is but just, however, to add, that the belief in
second sight is not peculiar to the Highlands and Isles.

Some years after our tour, a cause was tried in the Court of Session
where the principal fact to be ascertained was, whether a ship-master,
who used to frequent the Western Highlands and Isles, was drowned in
one particular year, or in the year after. A great number of witnesses
from the parts were examined on each side, and swore directly contrary
to each other upon this simple question. One of them, a very
respectable chieftain, who told me a story of second sight, which I
have not mentioned, but which I too implicitly believed, had in this
case, previous to this publick examination, not only said, but
attested under his hand, that he had seen the ship-master in the year
subsequent to that in which the court was finally satisfied he was
drowned. When interrogated with the strictness of judicial inquiry,
and under the awe of an oath, he recollected himself better, and
retracted what he had formerly asserted, apologizing for his
inaccuracy, by telling the judge 'A man will SAY what he will not
SWEAR.' By many he was much censured and it was maintained that every
gentleman would be as attentive to truth without the sanction of an
oath, as with it. Dr Johnson, though he himself was distinguished at
all times by a scrupulous adherence to truth, controverted this
proposition; and, as a proof that this was not, though it ought to be,
the case, urged the very different decisions of elections under Mr
Greville's Act, from those formerly made. 'Gentlemen will not
pronounce upon oath, what they would have said, and voted in the House
without the sanction.'

However difficult it may be for men who believe in preternatural
communications, in modern times, to falsify those who are of a
different opinion, they may easily refute the doctrine of their
opponents, who impute a belief in second sight to superstition. To
entertain a visionary notion that one sees a distant or future event,
may be called superstition; but the correspondence of the fact or
event with such an impression on the fancy, though certainly very
wonderful, IF PROVED, has no more connection with superstition, than
magnetism or electricity.

After dinner, various topicks were discussed; but I recollect only one
particular. Dr Johnson compared the different talents of Garrick and
Foote, as companions, and gave Garrick greatly the preference for
elegance, though he allowed Foote extraordinary powers of
entertainment. He said, 'Garrick is restrained by some principle; but
Foote has the advantage of an unlimited range. Garrick has some
delicacy of feeling; it is possible to put him out; you may get the
better of him; but Foote is the most incompressible fellow that I ever
knew: when you have driven him into a corner, and think you are sure
of him, he runs through between your legs, or jumps over your head,
and makes his escape.'

Dr Erskine and Mr Robert Walker, two very respectable ministers of
Edinburgh, supped with us, as did the Reverend Dr Webster. The
conversation turned on the Moravian missions, and on the Methodists.
Dr Johnson observed in general, that missionaries were too sanguine in
their accounts of their success among savages, and that much of what
they tell is not to be believed. He owned that the Methodists had done
good; had spread religious impressions among the vulgar part of
mankind: but, he said, they had great bitterness against other
Christians, and that he never could get a Methodist to explain in what
he excelled others; that it always ended in the indispensible
necessity of hearing one of their preachers.

Thursday, 11th November

Principal Robertson came to us as we sat at breakfast; he advanced to
Dr Johnson, repeating a line of Virgil, which I forget. I suppose,
either

  Post varios casus, per tot discrimina rerum,
  [Footnote: Through various hazards and events we move.]

or

  ... multum ille et terris jactatus, et alto.
  [Footnote: Long labours both by sea and land he bore. DRYDEN.]

Every body had accosted us with some studied compliment on our return.
Dr Johnson said, 'I am really ashamed of the congratulations which we
receive. We are addressed as if we had made a voyage to Nova Zembla,
and suffered five persecutions in Japan.' And he afterwards remarked,
that, 'to see a man come up with a formal air, and a Latin line, when
we had no fatigue and no danger, was provoking.' I told him, he was
not sensible of the danger, having lain under cover in the boat during
the storm: he was like the chicken, that hides its head under its
wing, and then thinks itself safe.

Lord Elibank came to us, as did Sir William Forbes. The rash attempt
in 1745 being mentioned, I observed, that it would make a fine piece
of history. Dr Johnson said it would. Lord Elibank doubted whether any
man of this age could give it impartially. JOHNSON. 'A man, by talking
with those of different sides, who were actors in it, and putting down
all that he hears, may in time collect the materials of a good
narrative. You are to consider, all history was at first oral. I
suppose Voltaire was fifty years in collecting his Louis XIV which he
did in the way that I am proposing.' ROBERTSON. 'He did so. He lived
much with all the great people who were concerned in that reign, and
heard them talk of every thing: and then either took Mr Boswell's way,
of writing down what he heard, or, which is as good, preserved it in
his memory; for he has a wonderful memory.' With the leave, however,
of this elegant historian, no man's memory can preserve facts or
sayings with such fidelity as may be done by writing them down when
they are recent. Dr Robertson said, 'it was now full time to make such
a collection as Dr Johnson suggested; for many of the people who were
then in arms, were dropping off; and both Whigs and Jacobites were now
come to talk with moderation.' Lord Elibank said to him, 'Mr
Robertson, the first thing that gave me a high opinion of you, was
your saying in the Select Society, [Footnote: A society for debate in
Edinburgh, consisting of the most eminent men.] while parties ran
high, soon after the year 1745, that you did not think worse of a
man's moral character for his having been in rebellion. This was
venturing to utter a liberal sentiment, while both sides had a
detestation of each other.'

Dr Johnson observed, that being in rebellion from a notion of
another's right, was not connected with depravity; and that we had
this proof of it, that all mankind applauded the pardoning of rebels;
which they would not do in the case of robbers and murderers. He said,
with a smile, that 'he wondered that the phrase of UNNATURAL rebellion
should be so much used, for that all rebellion was natural to man'.

As I kept no journal of any thing that passed after this morning, I
shall, from memory, group together this and the other days, till that
on which Dr Johnson departed for London. They were in all nine days;
on which he dined at Lady Colvill's, Lord Hailes's, Sir Adolphus
Oughton's, Sir Alexander Dick's, Principal Robertson's, Mr McLaurin's,
and thrice at Lord Elibank's seat in the country, where we also passed
two nights. He supped at the Honourable Alexander Gordon's, now one of
our judges, by the title of Lord Rockville; at Mr Nairne's, now also
one of our judges, by the title of Lord Dunsinan; at Dr Blair's, and
Mr Tytler's; and at my house thrice, one evening with a numerous
company, chiefly gentlemen of the law; another with Mr Menzies of
Culdares, and Lord Monboddo, who disengaged himself on purpose to meet
him; and the evening on which we returned from Lord Elibank's, he
supped with my wife and me by ourselves.

He breakfasted at Dr Webster's, at old Mr Drummond's, and at Dr
Blacklock's; and spent one forenoon at my uncle Dr Boswell's, who
shewed him his curious museum; and, as he was an elegant scholar, and
a physician bred in the school of Boerhaave, Dr Johnson was pleased
with his company.

On the mornings when he breakfasted at my house, he had, from ten
o'clock till one or two, a constant levee of various persons, of very
different characters and descriptions. I could not attend him, being
obliged to be in the Court of Session; but my wife was so good as to
devote the greater part of the morning to the endless task of pouring
out tea for my friend and his visitors.

Such was the disposition of his time at Edinburgh. He said one evening
to me, in a fit of langour, 'Sir, we have been harrassed by
invitations.' I acquiesced. 'Ay, sir,' he replied; 'but how much worse
would it have been, if we had been neglected?'

From what has been recorded in this Journal, it may well be supposed
that a variety of admirable conversation has been lost, by my neglect
to preserve it. I shall endeavour to recollect some of it, as well as
I can.

At Lady Colvill's, to whom I am proud to introduce any stranger of
eminence, that he may see what dignity and grace is to be found in
Scotland, an officer observed, that he had heard Lord Mansfield was
not a great English lawyer. JOHNSON. 'Why, sir, supposing Lord
Mansfield not to have the splendid talents which he possesses, he must
be a great English lawyer, from having been so long at the bar, and
having passed through so many of the great offices of the law. Sir,
you may as well maintain that a carrier, who has driven a packhorse
between Edinburgh and Berwick for thirty years, does not know the
road, as that Lord Mansfield does not know the law of England.'

At Mr Nairne's, he drew the character of Richardson, the author of
Clarissa, with a strong yet delicate pencil. I lament much that I have
not preserved it: I only remember that he expressed a high opinion of
his talents and virtues; but observed, that 'his perpetual study was
to ward off petty inconveniencies, and procure petty pleasures; that
his love of continual superiority was such, that he took care to be
always surrounded by women, who listened to him implicitly, and did
not venture to controvert his opinions; and that his desire of
distinction was so great, that he used to give large vails to the
Speaker Onslow's servants, that they might treat him with respect'.

On the same evening, he would not allow that the private life of a
judge, in England, was required to be so strictly decorous as I
supposed. 'Why then, sir,' said I, 'according to your account, an
English judge may just live like a gentleman.' JOHNSON. 'Yes, sir--if
he CAN.'

At Mr Tytler's, I happened to tell that one evening, a great many
years ago, when Dr Hugh Blair and I were sitting together in the pit
of Drury-lane play-house, in a wild freak of youthful extravagance, I
entertained the audience PRODIGIOUSLY, by imitating the lowing of a
cow. A little while after I had told this story, I differed from Dr
Johnson, I suppose too confidently, upon some point, which I now
forget. He did not spare me. 'Nay, sir,' said he, 'if you cannot talk
better as a man, I'd have you bellow like a cow.' [Footnote: As I have
been scrupulously exact in relating anecdotes concerning other
persons, I shall not withhold any part of this story, however
ludicrous.--I was so successful in this boyish frolick, that the
universal cry of the galleries was, 'Encore the cow! Encore the cow!'
In the pride of my heart, I attempted imitations of some other
animals, but with very inferior effect. My reverend friend, anxious
for my fame, with an air of the utmost gravity and earnestness,
addressed me thus: 'My dear sir, I would CONFINE myself to the COW!']

At Dr Webster's, he said, that he believed hardly any man died without
affectation. This remark appears to me to be well founded, and will
account for many of the celebrated death-bed sayings which are
recorded.

On one of the evenings at my house, when he told that Lord Lovat
boasted to an English nobleman, that though he had not his wealth, he
had two thousand men whom he could at any time call into the field,
the Honourable Alexander Gordon observed, that those two thousand men
brought him to the block. 'True, sir,' said Dr Johnson: 'but you may
just as well argue, concerning a man who has fallen over a precipice
to which he has walked too near, "His two legs brought him to
that"--is he not the better for having two legs?'

At Dr Blair's I left him, in order to attend a consultation, during
which he and his amiable host were by themselves. I returned to
supper, at which were Principal Robertson, Mr Nairne, and some other
gentlemen. Dr Robertson and Dr Blair, I remember, talked well upon
subordination and government; and, as my friend and I were walking
home, he said to me, 'Sir, these two doctors are good men, and wise
men.' I begged of Dr Blair to recollect what he could of the long
conversation that passed between

Dr Johnson and him alone, this evening, and he obligingly wrote to me
as follows:

March 3, 1785.
  Dear Sir,

... As so many years have intervened, since I chanced to have that
conversation with Dr Johnson in my house, to which you refer, I have
forgotten most of what then passed, but remember that I was both
instructed and entertained by it. Among other subjects, the discourse
happening to turn on modern Latin poets, the Dr expressed a very
favourable opinion of Buchanan, and instantly repeated, from beginning
to end, an ode of his, intituled Calendae Maiae (the eleventh in his
Miscellaneorum Liber), beginning with these words, Salvete sacris
deliciis sacrae, with which I had formerly been unacquainted; but upon
perusing it, the praise which he bestowed upon it, as one of the
happiest of Buchanan's poetical compositions, appeared to me very
just. He also repeated to me a Latin ode he had composed in one of the
western islands, from which he had lately returned. We had much
discourse concerning his excursion to those islands, with which he
expressed himself as having been highly pleased; talked in a
favourable manner of the hospitality of the inhabitants; and
particularly spoke much of his happiness in having you for his
companion; and said, that the longer he knew you, he loved and
esteemed you the more. This conversation passed in the interval
between tea and supper, when we were by ourselves. You, and the rest
of the company who were with us at supper, have often taken notice
that he was uncommonly bland and gay that evening, and gave much
pleasure to all who were present. This is all that I can recollect
distinctly of that long conversation.

Yours sincerely,

HUGH BLAIR.

At Lord Hailes's, we spent a most agreeable day; but again I must
lament that I was so indolent as to let almost all that passed
evaporate into oblivion. Dr Johnson observed there, that 'it is
wonderful how ignorant many officers of the army are, considering how
much leisure they have for study, and the acquisition of knowledge.' I
hope he was mistaken; for he maintained that many of them were
ignorant of things belonging immediately to their own profession; 'for
instance, many cannot tell how far a musket will carry a bullet;' in
proof of which, I suppose, he mentioned some particular person, for
Lord Hailes, from whom I solicited what he could recollect of that
day, writes to me as follows:

As to Dr Johnson's observation about the ignorance of officers, in the
length that a musket will carry, my brother, Colonel Dalrymple, was
present, and he thought that the doctor was either mistaken, by
putting the question wrong, or that he had conversed on the subject
with some person out of service.

Was it upon that occasion that he expressed no curiosity to see the
room at Dumfermline, where Charles I was born? 'I know that he was
born,' said he; 'no matter where.' Did he envy us the birth-place of
the king?]

Near the end of his Journey, Dr Johnson has given liberal praise to Mr
Braidwood's academy for the deaf and dumb. When he visited it, a
circumstance occurred which was truly characteristical of our great
lexicographer. 'Pray,' said he, 'can they pronounce any LONG words?'
Mr Braidwood informed him they could. Upon which Dr Johnson wrote one
of his sequipedalia verba, which was pronounced by the scholars, and
he was satisfied. My readers may perhaps wish to know what the word
was; but I cannot gratify their curiosity. Mr Braidwood told me, it
remained long in his school, but had been lost before I made my
inquiry. [Footnote: One of the best criticks of our age 'does not wish
to prevent the admirers of the incorrect and nerveless style which
generally prevailed for a century before Dr Johnson's energetick
writings were known, from enjoying the laugh that this story may
produce, in which he is very ready to join them'. He, however,
requests me to observe, that 'my friend very properly chose a LONG
word on this occasion, not, it is believed, from any predilection for
polysyllables (though he certainly had a due respect for them), but in
order to put Mr Braidwood's skill to the strictest test, and to try
the efficacy of his instruction by the most difficult exertion of the
organs of his pupils'.]

Dr Johnson one day visited the Court of Session. He thought the mode
of pleading there too vehement, and too much addressed to the passions
of the judges. 'This,' said he, 'is not the Areopagus.'

At old Mr Drummond's, Sir John Dalrymple quaintly said, the two
noblest animals in the world were, a Scotch highlander and an English
sailor. 'Why, sir,' said Dr Johnson, 'I shall say nothing as to the
Scotch highlander; but as to the English sailor, I cannot agree with
you.' Sir John said, he was generous in giving away his money.
JOHNSON. 'Sir, he throws away his money, without thought, and without
merit. I do not call a tree generous, that sheds its fruit at every
breeze.' Sir John having affected to complain of the attacks made upon
his Memoirs, Dr Johnson said, 'Nay, sir, do not complain. It is
advantageous to an authour, that his book should be attacked as well
as praised. Fame is a shuttlecock. If it be struck only at one end of
the room, it will soon fall to the ground. To keep it up, it must be
struck at both ends.' Often have I reflected on this since; and,
instead of being angry at many of those who have written against me,
have smiled to think that they were unintentionally subservient to my
fame, by using a battledoor to make me virum volitare per ora.

At Sir Alexander Dick's, from that absence of mind to which every man
is at times subject, I told, in a blundering manner, Lady
Eglingtoune's complimentary adoption of Dr Johnson as her son; for I
unfortunately stated that her ladyship adopted him as her son, in
consequence of her having been married the year AFTER he was born. Dr
Johnson instantly corrected me. 'Sir, don't you perceive that you are
defaming the countess? For, supposing me to be her son, and that she
was not married till the year after my birth, I must have been her
NATURAL son.' A young lady of quality, who was present, very
handsomely said, 'Might not the son have justified the faults?' My
friend was much flattered by this compliment, which he never forgot.
When in more than ordinary spirits, and talking of his journey in
Scotland, he has called to me, 'Boswell, what was it that the young
lady of quality said of me at Sir Alexander Dick's?' Nobody will doubt
that I was happy in repeating it.

My illustrious friend, being now desirous to be again in the great
theatre of life and animated exertion, took a place in the coach,
which was to set out for London on Monday the 22d of November. Sir
John Dalrymple pressed him to come on the Saturday before, to his
house at Cranston, which being twelve miles from Edinburgh, upon the
middle road to Newcastle (Dr Johnson had come to Edinburgh by Berwick,
and along the naked coast), it would make his journey easier, as the
coach would take him up at a more reasonable hour than that at which
it sets out. Sir John, I perceived, was ambitious of having such a
guest; but, as I was well assured, that at this very time he had
joined with some of his prejudiced countrymen in railing at Dr
Johnson, and had said, he wondered how any gentleman of Scotland could
keep company with him, I thought he did not deserve the honour: yet,
as it might be a convenience to Dr Johnson, I contrived that he should
accept the invitation, and engaged to conduct him. I resolved that, on
our way to Sir John's, we should make a little circuit by Roslin
Castle, and Hawthornden, and wished to set out soon after breakfast;
but young Mr Tytler came to shew Dr Johnson some essays which he had
written; and my great friend, who was exceedingly obliging when thus
consulted, was detained so long that it was, I believe, one o'clock
before we got into our post-chaise. I found that we should be too late
for dinner at Sir John Dalrymple's, to which we were engaged: but I
would by no means lose the pleasure of seeing my friend at
Hawthornden, of seeing SAM JOHNSON at the very spot where BEN JOHNSON
visited the learned and poetical Drummond.

We surveyed Roslin Castle, the romantick scene around it, and the
beautiful Gothick chapel, and dined and drank tea at the inn; after
which we proceeded to Hawthornden, and viewed the caves; and I all the
while had Rare Ben in my mind, and was pleased to think that this
place was now visited by another celebrated wit of England.

By this time 'the waning night was growing old', and we were yet
several miles from Sir John Dalrymple's. Dr Johnson did not seem much
troubled at our having treated the baronet with so little attention to
politeness; but when I talked of the grievous disappointment it must
have been to him that we did not come to the FEAST that he had
prepared for us (for he told us he had killed a seven-year-old sheep
on purpose), my friend got into a merry mood, and jocularly said, 'I
dare say, sir, he has been very sadly distressed. Nay, we do not know
but the consequence may have been fatal. Let me try to describe his
situation in his own historical style. I have as good a right to make
him think and talk, as he has to tell us how people thought and talked
a hundred years ago, of which he has no evidence. All history, so far
as it is not supported by contemporary evidence, is romance ... Stay
now... Let us consider!' He then (heartily laughing all the while)
proceeded in his imitation, I am sure to the following effect, though
now, at the distance of almost twelve years, I cannot pretend to
recollect all the precise words:

'Dinner being ready, he wondered that his guests were not yet come.
His wonder was soon succeeded by impatience. He walked about the room
in anxious agitation; sometimes he looked at his watch, sometimes he
looked out at the window with an eager gaze of expectation, and
revolved in his mind the various accidents of human life. His family
beheld him with mute concern. "Surely," said he, with a sigh, "they
will not fail me." The mind of man can bear a certain pressure; but
there is a point when it can bear no more. A rope was in his view, and
he died a Roman death.' [Footnote: 'Essex was at that time confined to
the same chamber of the Tower from which his father Lord Capel had
been led to death, and in which his wife's grandfather had inflicted a
voluntary death upon himself. When he saw his friend carried to what
he reckoned certain fate, their common enemies enjoying the spectacle,
and reflected that it was he who had forced Lord Howard upon the
confidence of Russel, he retired, and, by a ROMAN DEATH, put an end to
his misery.' Dalrymple's Memoirs of Great Britain and Ireland. Vol. I
p. 36.]

It was very late before we reached the seat of Sir John Dalrymple,
who, certainly with some reason was not in very good humour. Our
conversation was not brilliant. We supped, and went to bed in ancient
rooms, which would have better suited the climate of Italy in summer,
than that of Scotland in the month of November.

I recollect no conversation of the next day, worth preserving, except
one saying of Dr Johnson, which will be a valuable text for many
decent old dowagers, and other good company, in various circles to
descant upon. He said, 'I am sorry I have not learnt to play at cards.
It is very useful in life: it generates kindness, and consolidates
society.' He certainly could not mean deep play.

My friend and I thought we should be more comfortable at the inn at
Blackflelds, two miles farther on. We therefore went thither in the
evening, and he was very entertaining; but I have preserved nothing
but the pleasing remembrance, and his verses on George the Second and
Cibber, and his epitaph on Parnell, which he was then so good as to
dictate to me. We breakfasted together next morning, and then the
coach came, and took him up. He had, as one of his companions in it,
as far as Newcastle, the worthy and ingenious Dr Hope, botanical
professor at Edinburgh. Both Dr Johnson and he used to speak of their
good fortune in thus accidentally meeting; for they had much
instructive conversation, which is always a most valuable enjoyment,
and, when found where it is not expected, is peculiarly relished.

I have now completed my account of our tour to the Hebrides. I have
brought Dr Johnson down to Scotland, and seen him into the coach which
in a few hours carried him back into England. He said to me often,
that the time he spent in this tour was the pleasantest part of his
life, and asked me if I would lose the recollection of it for five
hundred pounds. I answered I would not; and he applauded my setting
such a value on an accession of new images in my mind.

Had it not been for me, I am persuaded Dr Johnson never would have
undertaken such a journey; and I must be allowed to assume some merit
from having been the cause that our language has been enriched with
such a book as that which he published on his return; a book which I
never read but with the utmost admiration, as I had such opportunities
of knowing from what very meagre materials it was composed.

THE END