by no means cheap; nor would they be so, even if the demands of St.
Helena could be answered from any other quarter; since the indolence of
the Dutch agriculturists would, it is to be feared, cause them to limit
their operations in proportion as the consumption might decrease. It is,
doubtless, owing to some such cause, that the greater part of the slaves
are maintained upon a very black, heavy kind of bread, on which the fat
of sheeps’ tails is smeared, as a substitute for butter; and that the
lower classes of the population live in the most wretched manner. This
should seem inexcusable, where thousands of acres of good soil lie
unheeded, within such a moderate distance of the town as could scarcely
fail to repay the ordinary expences of cultivation.

Although neither coal, nor peat, is found at the Cape, and the colony is
dependant entirely on the arborage of the vicinity for fuel, it is very
remarkable that little, or rather no, pains are taken to insure a
supply. If we except a few plantations, made purely for ornament, at the
several garden-houses within six or seven miles of Cape Town, we may in
vain search for any symptoms of foresight in respect to the future
supply of so indispensable an article. I recollect stating this to a
gentleman, who seemed to be, in other respects, well informed of Cape
affairs; but he silenced me with a remark which appeared unanswerable;
taking for granted it was true. He said, ‘We have endeavored, ever since
taking possession of the colony, to induce the Dutch to plant, and to
till, the adjacent lands; but in vain: they prefer a scarcity, or at
least a pretended one, on all occasions; because they think it
distresses us, while, at the same time, they have an excellent plea for
extorting the highest prices. Possessed of his waggon, and team, Mynheer
can always supply his own wants at a certain rate; but if more is
brought than is required for his own use, the surplus is spared to us
for a sum which covers the whole expence: therefore, the dearer the
article, the better for the waggon-master!’

I am free to confess, that where such hauteur, indolence, and extortion
prevail, and that, too, very extensively and actively, against a
protecting power, (for we really do not appear as conquerors in that
quarter,) I should not hesitate to adopt such measures as might fully
meet the exigency. If, in so doing, I should wound the feelings, or
partially injure the rights, of the inhabitants, my argument would be
brief, viz. ‘You created a necessity, and necessity has no law.’ Though,
here and there, something resembling an European vehicle may be seen,
the general instrument of conveyance, whether of families travelling, or
taking the air, is a waggon, usually drawn by eight small, but fiery
horses. One Hottentot commonly holds the reins of the pair next the
wheels, while another, with an immense whip, not less in the whole than
thirty feet long, manages the team with wondrous dexterity. In these
waggons are commonly three benches, slung crosswise, on leather straps;
each bench holding two persons. They are likewise provided with painted
canvas tilts, made to take off at pleasure. The motion of such a waggon,
while going over the rough part between the two capes, is ‘_most
horrible!_’

The lumber-waggons are made in the rudest manner, generally with large
truck wheels; some are boarded, or even thatched, above, and absolutely
look like moving houses. Whether owing to the awkwardness of their
construction, or to the badness of the roads, or to that incorrigible
thing called custom, may not be easy to decide; though, possibly, their
joint operation may be reasonably considered the cause; it is certainly
true, that, even with six or eight pairs of rather stout, but
high-boned, oxen, such a waggon rarely travels more than twelve or
fifteen miles within the day. Nor is the plough a whit better managed.
This stupendous machine, which appears calculated to turn up whole
mountains in its progress, rarely gets through more than two roods
daily, though drawn by six oxen, all in a line, and aided by three men;
one of whom holds the plough stilt, (there being but one,) another
drives with the usual enormous whip, and the third guides the leading
ox.

The operation of thrashing is commonly performed in the open air, within
an enclosed circle, about twenty yards in diameter, surrounded by a
stone, or mud wall, about four feet high: the floor is made of clay and
lime, rammed very hard. The sheaves being scattered within the circle,
the farmer’s horses are turned in, and driven about by a slave, who,
being provided with a whip, stands in the centre, and chases the cattle
about; while two, or more, of his associates in bondage, stir the
sheaves with forked sticks, in order that every part may be equally
trodden by the galloping steeds. The winnowing is done in the same area;
the horses being sent into another circle, to repeat their labors, while
several men, first removing the straw, sweep the thrashings towards the
windward side, and there toss it up, that the wind, which is commonly
rather forcible, may blow the chaff to the lee side, while the corn
falls nearly centrical; of course, as the latter goes with little
further preparation to the mill, the flour may be supposed to contain no
small portion of grit. The quantity of grain bruised, and left in the
straw, must be considerable.

Few ships remain long enough to allow of passengers proceeding to the
interior; where, however, they would find much to admire. At some of the
farms they may be well accommodated, with the great advantage of finding
their purses far less burthensome on their return! The famous vineyards
of Stellenbosch are well worth seeing, as is the Salt Lake, which
annually dries, leaving a bed of muriate of soda many miles in diameter,
and of unknown depth! Surely, in parts accounted sterile, such a depôt
of manure ought not to be overlooked. The hot baths, situate in a most
romantic valley about forty miles from the Cape, demand the traveller’s
attention. Whether he may proceed on horseback, (as I should recommend,)
or in a waggon, a gun will be useful; both on account of the prodigious
quantity of game, of every description, and as a defence against the
numerous wild beasts which infest all the woody country beyond Hottentot
Holland.

I have been induced to enter upon the foregoing details regarding the
Cape, from the consideration of its being intimately attached to our
Asiatic possessions; and because so large a portion of those who visit
them, touch there; either in going to, or when returning from, India.
The political importance of a point so advantageously situated, and
having such an expanse of territory annexed, may, perhaps, at some
convenient moment, become a subject for future discussion: in the mean
while, as connected with the Cape, I shall treat of St. Helena.

This island is most singularly situated, being in the 16th degree of
south latitude, and separated from the two continents of Africa and
America by immense seas, in every part unfathomable: from the former it
is about 1200 miles distant; from the latter about 1800. According to an
analytic description, published in 1805, it appears tolerably certain,
that Saint Helena owes its elevation above the sea to some great
convulsion of nature; probably to, an earthquake: for it does not, like
its neighbour Ascension, shew much remains of volcanic matter, neither
does there appear any cavity at all resembling a crater. On the
contrary, the whole island is composed of immense strata of rock,
chiefly basaltic, which, from the variety of directions they assume,
some declining one way, some another, while a few assume nearly a
perpendicular tendency, may be supposed to have been disrupted, and
ejected from the great sub-marine mass, by some tremendous earthquake.
It would be difficult to form the least idea of the period when that
event took place; nor, indeed, can it be altogether certified that this
island was not coœval with the creation; since which it may have
undergone various changes, from volcanic operations within the deep: the
appearance of cinders without lava, and the regular intermixture of
clay, especially of puzolana, with the rock, by such a gradual
intercourse as to leave it undetermined where the one begins, and the
other ceases, may be considered a _lusus naturæ_, and certainly tends to
involve the origin of this now valuable island still more among the
arcana of nature.

Situated in the heart of the trade winds, and covering so small a space,
the whole island giving a girth of less than twenty-eight miles, it is
not to be expected that much rain should fall upon it: such is the
incertitude regarding a supply of water, that for three years in
succession scarce a shower fell! This severe drought proved fatal to a
very large quantity of cattle, which had, during the course of many
preceding seasons, been raised by the industrious efforts of the
inhabitants. Such were the chagrin, and the disappointment, felt on the
occasion, that few have, since that period, turned their attention to
the rearing of live stock in any quantity.

Water would never be wanting, if proper means were taken for its
preservation; as almost every valley has a copious spring, the produce
of which might be retained in tanks lined with the clay every where
abounding. These tanks should be situated as near as possible to the
spring heads; being dug in the form of a cone resting on its base, so as
to leave but little surface for evaporation. By this means they might be
kept in a continual state of overflow, from the upper tank or cone, to
others below the level of its surface, at such distances as should be
judged proper. The source of the spring supplying the stream that flows
through James’s Valley, whence the shipping receive their water, cannot
be less than six hundred feet above the level of the sea; therefore,
admitting that a succession of tanks were to be made at such places as
might be best suited to the retention of water, and to the supply of
cattle, &c. it follows, that any quantity, beyond the actual
consumption, might be upheld for times of scarcity.

It cannot fail to astonish my readers, that no means whatever have been
taken to prevent even the stream above alluded to from being lost, when
they are informed that it is computed, indeed, has been known to supply
no less than two thousand tons in three days; and could have furnished a
much greater quantity, had it been practicable to bring more boats, at
the same moment, near enough to the wharf-cocks, to have the hoses laid
into their respective casks. I have heard, that a computation of the
spring was made, whence it was shewn to be equal to that conduit which
supplies Liverpool. Now, the whole population of St. Helena are supposed
to be rather under, than over, 3000; which, compared with Liverpool, at
once displays the possibility of guarding against drought; though the
lands should be stocked to their utmost with cattle. This, of itself, is
sufficient reason for the adoption of some plan for preventing the
escape of the surplus fluid; which ought to be retained as high up as
possible; but when we consider, that, under such an improvement,
agriculture would thrive in situations now deemed untenable by any
farmer, merely from a want of water, there ought to be no hesitation in
resorting to the proper means for securing a due supply throughout the
island.

We should, at the same time, advert to the regular operations of nature,
which ever conform to the changes produced, either by time or by art.
The naturalist well knows, that in all well wooded islands, however
distant from continents, the dews are remarkably heavy, and encourage
vegetation to its utmost luxuriance: if, then, the soil could again be
covered with arborage, (for, when first discovered, about three hundred
years ago, the very summits of the hills were amply clothed with trees,
of which some were peculiar to the island,) it is obvious, that, even
without the aid of irrigation, an abundance of perpetual pasturage might
be found. In that case, every acre might have its inhabitant; whereas,
at this day, computing the whole area to measure, according to a very
accurate survey, about 30,300 acres, and the population to be 3000; it
should seem evident, that, although there is not more than one
inhabitant to every ten acres, at least four-fifths of their provision
are drawn from other countries.

The author of the ‘Description of St. Helena,’ quotes some anecdotes
which shew the narrow views of those persons who have never quitted the
island. In one instance, ‘a top-mast, or other spar, is reserved as a
great acquisition, to be sold at an immense profit to some vessel in
distress:’ in another, the author states his having been asked, ‘if the
arrival of the India fleet did not make London very gay!’

In these, we certainly recognise the language of insulated ignorance;
but when the author makes a jest of that exclamation of a native, who,
in walking with him over a spot luxuriantly verdant, declared, that ‘if
the whole island were like that part, it would be the richest spot in
the world;’ the joke does not fit. I am well aware of the hyperbole of
such an enthusiastic expression; but, from what appeared at the
Government House, where, under the fostering care of Colonel Brooke, the
late governor, wonderful improvements had been affected, especially in
the culture of exotics; and having witnessed the great perfection to
which vegetables had been raised, on a farm in the occupation of the
late Major Edward Smyth, of the artillery; as well as the plantations
upheld, under most inauspicious circumstances, by the late Deputy
Governor Lieutenant-Colonel Robson: I feel no hesitation in avowing an
opinion, that the now dreary, bleak, uncouth summits of St. Helena,
might become both ornamental and useful; while the lower parts should
teem with corn, wine, and oil.

In a climate where no hurricanes destroy the crops, where the medium
temperature is about 54°, where health and longevity seem to hold their
court, and where there exist the greatest essentials towards culture,
(viz. clay, lime-stone, sand, and manure, in the greatest abundance,) I
really cannot see why this now neglected, and comparatively desolate,
island, should not become a perfect paradise! That health should be a
common blessing among the natives, does not appear wonderful; because
they have not the means of excess, at least not in drinking; for wine,
and spirits, are most exorbitantly dear. I happened to be at Governor
Brooke’s on New Year’s Day, 1800, when intelligence was brought that the
whole of the troops were plunged into the deepest affliction, by the
loss of a cask of rum, served from the stores as the usual basis of
annual festivity: in rolling up towards the barracks, the cask had
burst, and spilled every drop of its precious contents. This, in any
other situation, would not have given a moment’s uneasiness; the
deficiency might have been easily made up: but, at St. Helena, where the
most sparing economy, in regard to all articles of subsistence, is
indispensably necessary, and where no private suttlers could fill up the
blank, it was really a most uncomfortable circumstance!

It cannot be expected, after the above detail, that provision should be
cheap, or abundant: so far the reverse, that persons of all ranks daily
receive their rations from the stores, as indispensable towards their
existence. Hence, sheep, poultry, flour, &c. are rarely procurable, in
any quantity, for the supply of the homeward-bound shipping; which,
being sometimes detained for months, waiting for convoy, occasions their
passengers to be put to considerable expence, without deriving
proportionate comfort; valetudinarians being the only strangers, who, in
such cases, experience the smallest benefit from the detention.

It would be difficult to state the expences incident to residence at any
of those houses where lodgings are let: which includes all, excepting
about half a dozen of the seniors on the island: the rates vary
according to the demand at the moment, or the expectation of early
arrivals. It may be concluded, that cheapness neither is, nor can be,
the characteristic of James Town, when I observe, that, merely for the
use of an apartment, such as nothing but the change of scene would have
induced me to occupy, wherein I occasionally slept on a truck-bed,
whereof the whole apparatus might safely have been sent to the paper
mills, the charge made was twelve shillings daily, or rather nightly;
for I never ate a meal in the house. Let it not be understood that I
speak this in derogation of the people: far otherwise; I experienced all
the civility they had the opportunity of shewing, and I really believe
they regretted their want of means to render my slumbers more
refreshing.

Their exertions might, perhaps, have obtained me a more comfortable
lodging, but there were other matters far beyond their power to remedy:
among these may be noticed the myriads of cock-roaches, (or _blatta
gigantea_,) which at night crawled about the bed; offending not only by
the very unpleasant sensations produced by their claws, but by their
peculiarly nauseous scent. As for rats, of no small breed, nor, indeed,
confined to one species, they made as free, at all hours, as though they
had paid for their lodging, and absolutely seemed to approach with
perfect indifference: their gallopings, not only within the walls, but
over me as I slept, together with some very unceremonious pulls at my
hair, (for I then used powder,) at length compelled me to sleep, when
opportunity offered, on board the vessel, wherein our stock of these
devastators, though not insignificant, was considerably less numerous,
and far more reserved. We had, however, abundance of cock-roaches, about
two inches in length, and an inch broad; but, owing to the pains taken
to catch them by means of saucers filled with oil, of which they are
extremely fond, their numbers were greatly reduced; but we could never
hope for their extirpation, as every crevice afforded them shelter, and
the opportunity of depositing their eggs in safety.

It may be asked why I did not move to some other house? In reply
thereto, it will be only necessary to observe, that I was recommended to
the good folks, or they to me, (I forget which) by a gentleman to whose
urbanity and kindness I was under much obligation: besides, I was daily
in hopes of quitting the island; therefore judged it most expedient to
remain where I was, lest I might, by avoiding Scylla, stumble upon
Charybdis. There are one or two shops in James Town, where goods of
various descriptions are sold. I had occasion to buy a hat, for which I
paid ten dollars, and on my arrival in England found that it could never
have stood the exporter in more than twelve shillings, even under a
salt-water invoice. But it was the best that was for sale, and I was
compelled to the purchase.

Such ships as have touched at the Cape, on their return from India, are
usually well stocked with every species of provision, and even import
their own fuel; according to existing regulations: were they to be
supplied with that article, or indeed with any other, to much extent,
the distress occasioned to the inhabitants would be deplorable. This
deficiency of fuel is occasioned, at present, by the number of wild
goats, every where secreting themselves among the crags; during the
night time they descend to the plantations, and to the fields, cropping
every thing within their reach. Until a war of extermination, as is now
proposed, be carried on against these destructive animals, it will be
useless to attempt planting, at least on such a scale as should prove
beneficial to the inhabitants. It may justly be supposed, that no weak
measures could produce so desirable a result; but it is reasonable to
conclude, that, if a party of soldiers were to be posted daily on those
superior points whence the goats could be seen and alarmed; and if a
number of half-bred greyhounds were to be kept to run them down, much
might be done in the course of a few years; especially if a reward were
given for every goat destroyed, by whatever means.

Yams and potatoes are cultivated in tolerable quantities on various
parts of the island; but the former will not grow except in very choice
situations, such as vallies through which streams flow. In Major Smyth’s
grounds, an immense variety of our esculents were to be seen, growing
luxuriantly: I recollect his pointing out to me a peculiarity regarding
the leek, and the onion, in both which he had been frequently
disappointed, after planting them to stand for seed. As an experiment
which did not promise success, he sowed the little seed vessels which
form the globular head of the stems; and found, that, by so doing, he
could insure a regular, and very rapid succession. He cut off the heads,
and separated the capsules, when they were in their green state, but
rather inclining to maturity.

Having undoubted proof of the readiness with which many plants,
indigenous to the cold, as well as to the hot, regions, may be
naturalized at St. Helena, it must excite some surprise to be informed,
that no public measures have yet been taken to stock the island with a
variety of quick-growing and useful trees; which, being collected on
favorable spots, might serve as the depôt for future supplies. The
various species of palms thrive amazingly, as does the peepul; of which,
for a long time, there was only one in the island, and no person could
tell whence it came!

It seems curious, that peaches should thrive so luxuriantly, and acquire
such an admirable flavor, notwithstanding the dryness of the atmosphere:
formerly, this fruit was in such abundance, that large quantities used
to be given to the hogs. Unhappily, an insect, only to be distinguished
by the aid of glasses, was imported with some slips from the Constantia
vines: these attacked the peach trees, devouring their bark, and
destroying at least nine-tenths of their number. It is said, that every
means have been tried to annihilate these minute plunderers, or to deter
them from their wonted attacks, but without effect. I recollect, that,
about twenty years ago, a premium was given by some association,
(probably the society for the encouragement of arts,) to a person who
discovered a means of ridding trees from this description of clustering
insects. It was very simple; and was effected by boring holes with a
gimlet, obliquely downwards, into the body of the trunk, near the
ground, and filling them with quicksilver; after which the holes were
closed by means of pitch, or plugs of wood. As possibly this has never
been essayed at St. Helena, I give it a place under the hope of its
proving useful: it is, however, said to render evergreens deciduous.

The teak, and poon trees, both of which are of important service in
naval architecture, might certainly be raised to great size in St.
Helena. The burghut, or banian tree, might also thrive; but I should
except against it as requiring too much nourishment, and exhausting the
soil, without being any wise useful as timber. The tamarind tree, though
it supplies a large proportion of fruit, has this objection against it,
that it is peculiarly unfriendly to all others in its vicinity: no grass
will grow under it; and persons who sleep beneath its shelter, or within
its influence, are subjected to fevers: its timber is substantial, being
hard and heavy, but by no means strong, on account of its tendency to
rive, and to start into fissures; especially at those knots whence
boughs have been thrown out. The bamboo may be cultivated to very great
advantage: it grows, throughout India, on the most elevated situations,
and on spots where scarcely a handful of soil is to be found in the
vicinity of its roots. The value of this reed, (for it is nothing more,
though it reaches to the height of seventy feet, and frequently measures
from five to six inches in diameter,) would be incalculable, were it
applied merely to making fences; which, in such a climate, would be very
durable. An invaluable acquisition would be obtained from its more
general culture, especially as it is of very quick growth. But the most
important advantages would certainly attend the formation of vine-yards,
in such parts as might, by their aspect and soil, be best suited to the
purpose. The temperature of the climate is highly favorable, the
thermometer averaging, during the summer season, from 76° to 79° and
80°, and rarely falling below 54°. That great enemy to grapes, rain, is
not much to be dreaded; though it cannot be doubted, that in proportion
as vegetation should be increased by assiduous planting, and by
preserving due supplies of water for the upper levels, more dew and more
rain would fall: however, not to such excess as to ruin the vine-yards.

Coffee has been found to thrive here; but I much doubt whether it would
be an object to cultivate that which is so abundant throughout the West
Indies, and which can be so amply supplied from countries, whence it
comes as a return for our own manufactures.

The great, at least the primary, object should be to add to the
resources of the present inhabitants, and gradually to effect such an
excess of provision, of their own raising, as should allow of liberal
assistance being given to such ships as might touch at the island;
especially to vessels from the South Seas, whither numbers of our
whalers now resort, and to such as might, either intentionally, or
accidentally, miss the Cape. This may certainly be effected, by active
perseverance in a well arranged plan; the difficulties are really few,
and the means, of remedy certainly within our power. After maturely
weighing the _pros_ and _cons_, no doubt remains in my mind, that, in
the course of fifteen or twenty years, St. Helena would not only cease
to be a burthen on the parent state; but that it must be able to afford
a large portion of its produce to the accommodation of all shipping
visiting its roads.

This island cannot boast of a harbour; nor are its Roads so extensive as
to admit a very numerous fleet, owing to the small extent of the bank on
which ships cast anchor; generally in from six to fifteen fathoms. After
the latter depth, the bank falls off so suddenly as to become
unfathomable, within a few hundred yards, rendering it necessary to lay
in, as close as the surf admits, probably about two cable’s length from
the beach. But it is not very easy to get so near in the first instance,
on account of a strong current that sets to the north, and the necessity
for being close hauled to meet the wind which comes down James’s Valley.
It is best to anchor any where about twelve fathoms, and, when the wind
lulls, to warp into a better berth.

There is but one landing place, which lies to the left of a shallow
inflexion, forming a small bay opposite the sea-line; built nearly on a
level with the water, and mounting a very heavy battery, properly
equipped for heating shot, and always kept in readiness for service. Not
that it would be possible for an enemy to surprize the island, unless
the most shameful inattention might prevail in every quarter. All
vessels must approach on the south-east; where there are guards, and
telegraphs, whereby notice is given full four hours before the
northernmost point can be rounded. This, of course, alludes to the day;
but, so clear is the atmosphere in general, that even during the night a
ship would be discerned at many miles distance.

After passing the southernmost points, it is necessary to keep well in
with the shore, which is every where composed of immense masses of rock,
without any inlet, or means of disembarkation; even if the tremendous
surf should not impede. Here the coast is guarded, or rather watched, by
various detachments, stationed at commanding points; where strong
batteries are mounted, and the means of communicating intelligence, in
the most rapid manner, at hand.

The last battery to be passed, previous to casting anchor, is called
Munden’s, and stands immediately between the watering, or landing-place,
and a small bay, in which, it is recorded, that a landing was once
effected during the night: from my own observation, having often gone in
a boat to the edge of the surf at that part to fish, I should think it
by no means easy to get ashore in any manner, much more as an armed body
intending to capture the island. But, whatever may have been effected in
former times, that quarter seems now so well guarded as to leave no
cause for apprehension, of a surprize at least: nor does there appear
the smallest danger of a landing being effected at the watering place;
where a very small party might oppose the boats of a whole fleet. The
swell is here very great, rendering it a matter of some hazard when
jumping into, or out of, a boat; besides, only one boat can come to at a
time, in a position suitable to hostile purposes; and it is not to be
supposed, that the battery above, or that on the landing-place, or the
sea-line, or the works on Ladder Hill, would be silent upon such an
occasion. Certain destruction awaits every person who falls into the
water in this part; where the sharks are as numerous as they are
ravenous. The wall of the wharf is perpendicular, and built on a rock,
under which is a tremendous abyss.

The whole of the northern part is composed of rocks naturally scarped in
a rugged manner, so as rather to hang over, than to retire from the sea;
rising every where from 800 to 2000 feet, and more. Yet, wonderful as it
may seem, with such force does the surf break on this leeward side of
the island, that the spray, or mist, may be seen constantly ascending,
like clouds of smoke, nearly to the summits of the mountains. The
residue of the coast is equally bold, and inaccessible; except at a part
called Sandy Bay, to the southward. There the shore is nearly flat for
some distance, but is interspersed with rocks, and guarded by reefs of
breakers, which project some distance, and totally obviate the means of
attack. If, however, a landing were to be effected, the guns kept in
readiness, in masked batteries on the surrounding heights, would soon
defeat the enemy’s purpose.

On account of the difficulty of approach, the several ships take their
water in regular rotation, unless when a vessel is under despatch; in
which case her boats have the preference. The mode of receiving water is
certainly suited to the situation; but is very tedious. The butts being
carried in the long-boats to the edge of the wharf, are there filled by
means of leathern hoses, of which the ends severally attach to cocks on
the pipes that conduct the water to that part. With the upmost
assiduity, I should suppose that not more than forty or fifty butts
could be supplied to any one long-boat within the course of the day,
notwithstanding the shipping lies so close; but, by a regular succession
of boats, full 1000 butts might be received.

After landing, the way leads under a very high hill on the left, to the
sea gate; within which is a barrier that secures the flank of the
sea-line, and defends the road into the town; it is terminated by a
gate, where the main guard is posted.

The town is small, and by no means irregular; the houses very low,
generally consisting of two and three floors, in all which there are
abundance of windows, glazed with small panes, which, on the whole, are
not very sightly. The valley, in which James Town is situated, is very
narrow, and, in the hot season, extremely sultry. On the right is Ladder
Hill, where a very heavy battery is mounted, both of guns and mortars,
effectually commanding the road, and the valley, for a great distance.
This hill is so steep, that it is ascended only by means of traverses
cut out of its side, and enclosed with a parapet sufficient to prevent
accidents. The soil is, however, so replete with large loose stones, as
to occasion frequent mischiefs to the houses below; of which some have
been greatly damaged by the fall of rubbish from above. I imagine, that
the ascent, by the road, cannot measure less than a mile; and, that the
perpendicular height of Ladder Hill, above the level of the sea, must be
full 600 yards.

Major Rennell states the various eminences to be as follow.

                                                            Feet.

      Cuckold’s Point                                        2672

      Halley’s Mount                                         2467

      Flag Staff                                             2272

      The Barn                                               2015

                        (Over-hanging the sea.)
      The Alarm House (centrically situated)                 l960

      High Knoll (where the Citadel stands, above Ladder     1903
      Hill)

      Longwood House (residence of the Deputy Governor)      1762

This very elevated part, namely, Ladder Hill, is nevertheless commanded
by several small batteries, judiciously situated, which, in their turn,
are subject to the fire of the works at High Knoll, built under the
auspices of Colonel Brooke, and under the immediate direction of Major
Smyth. This little fortification seems to be the _dernier resort_ of the
garrison, of which it might hold about two hundred in the several
bomb-proofs. It has a small arsenal, reservoir, magazine, a well of
immense depth, cut through the rock with great difficulty, and,
exclusive of its outworks, which are peculiarly compact, has a central
block-house, mounting several pieces of heavy ordnance. The site of this
citadel is shewn to be full 1960 feet above the level of the sea: the
highest peak in the island is about 2700; but it is too remote to have
any effect on the citadel.

The force kept up at St. Helena is, nominally, a battalion of infantry,
and four companies of artillery; but I doubt whether, at any time, more
than 700 men could be mustered: that number is barely equal to the
defence of the several outposts, and to manning the sea-line, Ladder
Hill, and the citadel. It is, fortunately, a very healthy spot, and the
hospitals are rarely known to contain more than four men in the hundred.

The surrounding ocean supplies abundance of fish; Mr. Brooke describes
no less than seventy-six kinds, though few are much esteemed. From the
stern of a ship, mackarel, of a small size, together with gar-fish,
plaice, a kind of cod, and a very fine species of gurnet, may be caught.
The best bait for these is a piece of raw albacore. Chance supplied us
with a very excellent stock of craw-fish: under the idea of catching
some small sharks, we made a net of spun-yarn, and slung it to a
butt-hoop. A few bones of salt beef were tied within for a bait. This we
lowered down at night, and occasionally drew up very gently to the
surface, the depth being about ten or eleven fathoms. We caught no
sharks, but frequently found two or three very fine craw-fishes, of that
sort called stumps.

I will now proceed with the regular order of my design, and observe
that, if a ship is not to touch at the Cape outward bound, especially
when that port is in possession of an enemy, or that hostile cruisers
are known to infest the southern coast of Africa, it is not uncommon to
run down to the latitude of 38° or 40°, thereby to avoid those dangers,
and to get beyond the influence of the current, which sets to the
westward at the rate of full three miles per hour. Experience has
proved, that, by taking such a course, the voyage has been quicker than
when the land has been kept in sight. When the Cape is thus avoided, it
will probably be necessary to proceed by the inner passage to the island
of Johanna. This is supposed to be the best route that can be followed,
by such as are bound to Bombay; though the number of shoals, and of
rocks, scattered through the Mozambique Channel, which separates
Madagascar from the Main, subjects it to some disrepute. These are, in a
measure, counterbalanced during war time, by the danger attendant upon
an approach to the island of Mauritius; whence the French have always
fitted out a number of privateers, that have done inconceivable mischief
among our shipping in the Indian Seas.

A few vessels touch at St. Augustine’s Bay, on the west coast of
Madagascar; but the treacherous disposition of the natives is a great
objection, and causes the generality to pass on to Johanna, which is the
only island of the Comora cluster we have been in the habit of visiting.
The strong current setting round its southern extremity, occasions
vessels to keep close to the shore as they approach Saddle Island,
which, at low water, is connected with Johanna by a ridge of sand,
whereon the Huntingdon Indiaman was lost about forty years back, in
attempting to pass, without going round Saddle Island; which derives its
name from the appearance it bears, when viewed at a certain distance.
The whole coast, from the southern point to the bay where the town is
situated, presents, with very little exception, a bold shore, divested
of those dangerous reefs which render Mohillah, and others of its
neighbours, difficult of access. The country is extremely mountainous;
in some parts abounding with cocoa and other trees: wild goats are very
numerous; but, being much in request among the natives, are very shy,
and, in general, retire to the most rugged eminences. To the left of the
town, about two miles distant, a long reef of black rocks encloses a
bay, of which the beach is covered with a fine sand, shelving very
gradually, and bearing a strong resemblance to that of Weymouth.

The houses in the villages on the coast are rather mean, though
appertaining to persons who have ridiculously assumed European titles of
eminence. The island swarms with ‘Prince Ruperts,’ ‘Prince Eugenes,’
Dukes, Marquises, and Lords, all of whom are mean and knavish to an
extreme. The common form of building consists of a long barn-like
apartment, entered by a low door in middle of its length, and having
another opposite thereto at the back, which leads to the most dirty
out-offices that can be imagined; wherein the culinary operations, &c.
are carried on. In the dwellings of those who admit lodgers, which may
be said to include half the town, the places for sleeping, for I cannot
call them bed-places, are raised, towards the two gable-ends, to the
height of full six feet; and, in some, are parted off by a curtain of
coarse chintz, or other cloth. These recesses are from three to five
feet in width, and may be ten or twelve feet long; according to the
breadth of the house. The ascent to them is formed by several very broad
stairs, ordinarily covered with matting made of cocoa-tree leaves, or,
in a few, with carpets. Each step is considered as accommodation for two
persons to repose upon, feet to feet: in most instances, however, the
steps are not long enough to allow more than one person to lie down.
This theatrical arrangement is by no means displeasing, nor is it
attended with so much inconvenience as would be the case were the whole
upon a level. The middle of the room is set apart for meals, usually
served on tables of a wretched construction; the guests sitting, as well
as they can, upon little stools, or eventually reclining on the matted
floor against the lower steps; which, by the by, is not only the most
comfortable, but, among the natives, is considered to be the most
decorous, mode.

The inhabitants of this island, which lies in 12° south, and 45° east,
are chiefly descendants of some Arabs who settled here about two
centuries ago. Its name is, properly, _Hinzuan_, from which we have, by
a series of corruptions, contrived to affix the present designation.
Most of the inhabitants who are not of Arabian descent, are slaves,
purchased for a mere trifle at Madagascar and Mozambique, with which
places some intercourse is preserved; though the Johanna marine seems
but ill suited to crossing even that narrow sea, which separates it from
either Cape Ambro, or the opposite coast of Mozambique. The number of
vessels called war-boats, may amount to about twenty, each capable of
carrying two hundred men. These barks, which are entirely open, are
usually furnished with an immense number of paddles, and oars, which,
aided by a large square-sail, cause them to make good way through the
water. In such a temperate climate, where the wind always blows from the
south-west, and where, with the exception of those hurricanes peculiar,
to the higher latitudes, fair weather prevails during the whole year,
such a naval armament may prove adequate to the ordinary purposes of its
construction.

All warfare with any of the neighbouring islands, is supported by
voluntary contributions; each person of consequence taking with him
provisions, and arms, for his respective adherents, or slaves. The
revenues are collected from about two hundred villages; but the three
principal towns are exempted from any contribution beyond the fortieth
part of their moveable property; which all, of whatever degree, pay
annually to the Mufti, or head of their church.

The king resides at the large and populous village of Domoni, where his
whole train of artillery, consisting of a condemned six-pounder, is kept
in great state! The natives are, in some degree, conversant in the use
of small-arms; these, with cutlasses, spears of immense length, and bows
and arrows, (the latter chiefly pointed with fish-bone, or flint,)
compose their stock of military implements. Their coast being generally
so safe, little skill is required to bring a vessel into a safe berth;
but it is usual to take on board a pilot, who is known by the name of
‘Purser Jack.’ This copper-colored knave never fails to put off, so soon
as any vessel is seen on its way from Saddle Island, and to offer his
services, which are supposed to be well requited by a few dollars.

It is worthy of remark, that, on account of the rapidity of the current,
which sets off to sea round the black rocks, and would infallibly
prevent any vessel from reaching an anchorage, all ships pass to the
southern extremity, near Saddle Island, and proceed with a fair wind
along the coast. But it is not safe to carry too much sail while under
the shore; as violent gusts come down between the mountains, in the most
abrupt manner.

The population of Johanna must be rather considerable: perhaps it were
not too much to estimate it at ninety, or a hundred, thousands;
including all ranks and ages: the towns are large and extremely
populous. The Mahomedan religion prevails, though but very few sacred
edifices, worthy of notice, are to be found on the island; the principal
one, which does not seem to have cost any great sum, being a mosque,
built by Halimah, a queen from whom the present king is descended,
situated near the landing place, in the town of Matsamudo. Nevertheless
the priests are sufficiently numerous; and, as in most countries, enjoy
an excellent share of the earth’s produce.

The areca-nut, which grows wild all over the island, but especially on
its borders, is here chewed with shell-lime, as practised throughout the
East: wild pine-apples, plantains, and the greatest variety of tropical
fruits, are scattered over mountains exhibiting a verdure of peculiar
richness, and presenting, on the aggregate, one of the richest scenes
imaginable. Not a horse is to be seen on the island; but plenty of
excellent cattle thrive uncommonly on the rich pastures of the vallies;
through most of which streams of the purest water, every where broken by
rocks, or gliding over shallow beds of gravelly sand, pursue their eager
course. It is rather peculiar, that, among other poultry, the Guinea
fowl should abound; thousands may be seen in a wild state, if it may be
so termed, when, by throwing a handful of grain at your feet, all will
instantly approach to participate of the bounty.

Musquitoes are here exceedingly troublesome, and attack the plethoric
mariner with avidity. It is said, that no snakes, or other venomous
reptiles, are to be found at Johanna; but, in exchange for that
blessing, they are plentifully supplied with bugs. The only vehicle
known in the island consists of a machine, termed a palanquin; but which
is, in fact, nothing but a litter made of clumsy net-work on a rough
frame, and borne by four men, who each take an end of the two side-poles
of bamboo on their shoulder. This splendid piece of ingenuity is
appropriated solely to the conveyance of his majesty, and of such
nobles, and European, or Arabian visitors, as may obtain permission to
visit him at Domoni.

Angling is little understood at Johanna, yet large quantities of good
fish are occasionally to be had. These are either taken by night lines,
or are speared by persons standing at the heads of canoes, who, with
wondrous dexterity, strike such fishes as approach the surface. This
practice, common throughout uncivilized countries, is in great
perfection among the Nicobar Islands.

I make no doubt, that, if proper means were used, an excellent supply of
stumps might be obtained. What I have said on this subject, when
describing St. Helena, would, most probably, be found equally
efficacious in many other insulated situations, under warm parallels. On
the shoals which lie within the channel of Mozambique, immense numbers
of cowries, called by us ‘_Blackamoors’ teeth_,’ are dredged up: these
being current as money in most parts of India, are exchanged, together
with live oxen, for arms and ammunition, hatchets, knives, nails, &c.

The oriental practice of dying the hands and feet red, by means of the
_hinna_, which here glows wild in the utmost luxuriance, prevails
throughout the island; especially among the females, who color their
lips and gums black, with a peculiar preparation, similar to the _missy_
of Hindustan, in order to make their teeth _appear to advantage!_
Although the men are extremely jealous, the women of the lower class are
allowed to walk the streets, provided they wear veils. We must not by
that word suppose that any particular part of their dress is so termed,
or separately made for that purpose: the only mode of concealing the
face consists in drawing the cloth, or sheet, which is thrown over the
head, so as to cause its meeting forward, leaving a very narrow opening
to enable the wearer to see her way.

With respect to the mercantile operations of the Johanna people, I
cannot afford a clearer idea than attends the description given by Alwi,
a man of some consequence on the island, to Sir William Jones, who has
recorded it in the following words. He said, ‘His country was poor, and
produced few articles of trade; but if they could get money, they might
easily procure foreign commodities, and exchange them advantageously
with their neighbours in the islands, and on the continent. Thus, with a
little money,’ said he, ‘we purchase muskets, powder, ball, cutlasses,
knives, cloths, raw cotton, and other articles brought from Bombay; and
with these we trade to Madagascar for the natural produce of that
country, or for dollars, with which the French buy cattle, honey,
butter, and so forth, in that island. With gold, which we receive from
your ships, we can procure elephants’ teeth from the natives of
Mozambique; who barter them also for bars of iron, and ammunition; while
the Portuguese in that country give us various kinds of cloths, in
exchange for our commodities. These cloths we dispose of lucratively in
the three neighbouring islands; whence we bring rice, cattle, a kind of
bread-fruit, which grows in Comora, and slaves; which we buy also at
other places where we trade: all this traffic we carry on in our own
vessels.’

The foregoing should evince, that, under an effective government, for
the present may be deemed a mere toleration of royalty, the island of
Johanna might become important among its neighbours; and, so long as
European vessels should continue to touch there for refreshments, might,
carry on a brisk trade. Yet the total want of any thing like a harbour,
must inevitably prove a great drawback on its prosperity. While there,
our ship was driven by a sudden squall, issuing from between two immense
mountains, from her anchorage, though she had two anchors out, and rode
within a short half mile of the beach; and this, too, in remarkably
clear weather.

The mode of killing whales in the Mozambique Channel, and by the
Africans all along their south-east coast, is extremely simple; it shews
how much may be effected by perseverance; and affords, indeed, an
admirable moral, together with no insignificant satire upon the great
expence to which Europeans, engaged in that pursuit, put themselves,
without becoming more certain of success.

When a whale is seen within a moderate distance of the shore, basking,
as they often do for hours together, with little intermission, during
the heat of the day, the fishermen put off in their canoes, which are
excavated from large trees, and equipped with out-riggers on each side.
Generally, each canoe carries from four to six persons; but those which
are intended to approach the whale, give over their crew, with the
exception of one spearsman, and one paddler, to the other canoes.

The paddler urges his canoe very gently, until within about eight or ten
yards of the whale; sidling up with extreme caution so as to be parallel
with its shoulders; this is done to avoid that lash of the tail which
the fish invariably gives, as he plunges downwards, on feeling the spear
enter his flesh. The weapons used on this occasion are about five feet
long, extremely elastic, and loaded at each end with iron or lead;
whereby not only the impetus is encreased, but the vibration, occasioned
by the opposite weights, causes the point, which is of iron, very acute
and barbed, to wriggle deeper into the flesh. Previous to striking, the
head of the canoe is turned towards the whale, and a slight retrocessive
motion is given; so that, at the very moment when the spear is
delivered, the paddler may, by a sudden exertion, pull further away, and
avoid the danger. It sometimes happens, that the spearsman is thrown
from his station into the water, by the sudden motion of the boat
opposed to his own action; being invariably expert swimmers, such an
accident is not in the least regarded. After sinking to a great depth,
the whale rises again to the surface, perhaps a mile off, where other
boats are waiting to repeat the attack; by a succession of which he is,
ordinarily in the space of an hour, so completely worn out, as to float
without the power of resistance, when a long spear, pushed through
between his ribs, speedily terminates the struggle.

The whale being dead, all the canoes join their efforts to tow the
carcase towards the shore; where, upon some sandy part, a division is
made of the spoil; each of the crews cutting away with hatchets and
cutlasses, as much of the blubber as they can expend. The residue is
sold, or exchanged for other articles of consumption, dress, &c. to the
inhabitants of the neighbouring towns: the whale-bone is reserved for
sale to European traders; the ribs serve for the couples of houses, or
rather cabins; and the joints of the vertebræ, after being neatly
trimmed at the sides, and at one end, make very comfortable stools; of
which, however, the strong, rank scent, retained for many months, would
prove highly offensive to any but persons who consider the blubber,
after the oil has been fried, and pressed out, to be a delicate morceau!

The operation of cutting away the adipose parts; which come off in
immense lumps, of from eight inches to a foot, or fifteen inches in
depth, is rather laborious; it is likewise attended with the danger of
attacks from an immense number of sharks, that instinctively follow the
carcase; and, so soon as it is hewn open, seize whatever falls from it
with the most ferocious avidity. Hence, the fishermen are obliged to be
extremely careful not to expose their limbs, by allowing them to dangle
in the water: such of the crews as fall overboard, are usually snapped
up by their greedy competitors; which, it is said, are known in these
parts to grow to the enormous length of thirty feet!

It has often occurred to me, that, in lieu of casting loose the remains
of whales, after cutting away the blubber, as our fishermen usually do,
an immense quantity of ammonia might be extracted, were the skeletons to
be towed to the shore, and there to be applied to that purpose. Fuel is
rarely wanting, and there being invariably sufficient crews on board our
whale-ships, which cannot be always employed, it should seem that much
advantage might thus arise, with little or no expence: the price of
ammonia is very high, but if it could be lowered, immense quantities
would be consumed. It is to be remarked, that this valuable alkali has
not hitherto been put under that course of experiments to which it
certainly would be subjected, did the price not stand in the way of its
use on a large scale: the following qualities, as stated in the
invaluable Dispensary given to the public by Dr. Andrew Duncan, may
plead in apology for my digressing so far on a subject, not apparently
connected with my prospectus; but which, considered philosophically, is,
by no means, irrelevant thereto.

Dr. Duncan states, that, ‘_ammonia_ does not dissolve animal substances;
it extinguishes flame; colors vegetable-blues green; is decomposed by
being transmitted through a red hot tube, and, by the electric spark,
into its constituent gases, and by oxygen, and atmosphoric air at a red
heat; by oxy-muriatic acid, it is converted into water and hydrogen-gas.
It is absorbed, without change, by porous bodies; it dissolves sulphur
and phosphorus; and combines readily with water, in all its states.
_Ammonia_ combines with the acids, forming neutral salts. It is formed
during the putrefactive fermentation; and is commonly classed among the
alkalies.’ My readers will see, at once, how wide a field is open for
speculation!

After quitting Johanna, which is the only island, in that cluster,
whither European vessels ever intentionally resort, such as may be bound
to Bombay usually make the great peninsula somewhere about Anjengo,
pursuing their course up the western, or Malabar side; while those
proceeding to Coast and Bay, (_i.e._ Madras and Bengal,) endeavor to get
a sight of Dondra-Head, which determines both their latitude, and their
longitude; thence they pass round the eastern side of the island of
Ceylon, of which the shore is sufficiently bold to allow their keeping
within two or three miles of the land with perfect safety, in regard to
reefs or shoals; but this quarter being extremely subject to violent
gales, that come on rather suddenly, or, at least, without much notice,
and are known by the name of ‘white squalls,’ it is generally considered
most prudent to keep a good offing. These white squalls invariably take
place when the sky is free from clouds; but may sometimes be
distinguished, as they approach, by the white spray raised from the
water by the violence of the wind: so soon as that is discovered, all
the small sails should be taken in, and the ship rendered as compact
above as time may admit. The warning spray is too frequently unnoticed;
and, even when perceived, is, for the most part, too close at hand to
admit of much preparation. This insidious danger extends, more or less,
from the south end of Madagascar up to the latitude of Tranquebar, being
most prevalent to the southward of the Line, where the south-west trade
wind prevails at all times.

The island of Ceylon has been adopted as a royal possession, in the
government of which the Company have no share whatever. The whole of the
civil establishment are appointed by the king; and the military receive
their commissions from the secretary at war, independent of the
Company’s chartered establishment. It generally happens, however, that
some of the Madras battalions are on duty in the island; which has
always been in a most perturbed state, especially since it came under
our dominion. It is rather unusual for the Company’s ships to touch
here, except when sent to Columbo with stores, or calling there on their
way home for cargoes and passengers. None but very small vessels can
pass between Ceylon and the Main, notwithstanding the great width of the
channel, on account of that immense reef, intermixed with shoals,
stretching across its northern part. This reef, called ‘Adam’s Bridge,’
is supposed to be formed by the summits of mountains, that, by some
dreadful convulsion, were sunk below those waters, between which they
originally formed a stupendous isthmus, like that of Darien, connecting
Ceylon with the continent.

Notwithstanding what has been said by many authors on the subject of
‘spicy gales,’ the expectation of meeting with perfumed breezes in this
quarter should not be too much encouraged. After coasting the whole
length, from Dondra-Head to Point Pedro, not one puff, conveying the
idea of proximate ambrosia, ever reached my nose. It must, at the same
time, be understood, that a certain terraceous scent, something like
that resulting from rain in dusty weather, generally prevails within a
certain distance of a windward shore; particularly where the country is
well wooded.

After passing to the northward of Ceylon, the navigation becomes more
difficult; there being immense shoals stretching, in various directions,
all the way from Tranquebar up to the mouths of the Ganges. It is
generally opposite some short interval between these dangerous shallows,
that our principal settlements are situated. Thus, Tranquebar,
Pondicherry, Cuddalore, Negapatam, and some others, to the southward of
Madras, enjoy a partial benefit in that instance; but, to the northward,
our principal sea-ports are under very considerable disadvantages,
arising from the great distance at which all vessels, with the exception
of very small coasters, are obliged to lay out in an open road, subject
to the fury of storms, and to the depredations of privateers, which
seldom fail to take advantage of these localities, whenever the season
may allow them to visit our shores.

The shallows may easily be distinguished at a considerable distance:
being composed of light, shifting sand, and acted upon by a strong
current, the water above them appears discolored; assuming a dun, or
yellow hue, sufficiently contrasted with the deeper parts, to enable the
eye at once to trace their respective limits.

Madras Roads being exempt from shoals, for some miles on either side,
are entered without a pilot; ships in general anchoring off the fort, in
from six to ten fathoms; the bottom a firm sand. The surf is here, at
all times, rather high; but when a south-west, or westerly wind,
prevails, becomes so tremendous as to debar all communication with the
shipping. From the beginning of October to the middle of January, the
flag-staff is struck, as a signal to vessels that no insurance is
payable on account of such losses as may happen during that period,
which is held to be replete with danger. So great is the apprehension
entertained of the perils attendant upon a continuance on the Coromandel
coast during that monsoon, that even our ships of war retire from the
protection of such trade as may be carried on by adventurous
individuals, and seek an asylum in some well-sheltered port, such as
Trincomalee.

Before we obtained possession of that admirable harbour, our fleets were
under the necessity of going round annually to Bombay; there they
employed their crews in putting the respective ships into complete
order, against the ensuing season; whatever vessels required substantial
repairs, being taken into dock. In the mean while, the enemy’s fleet
went to the Mauritius, which could be easily reached at any season; and
whence they could return full a month before our’s could get back from
the Malabar coast. The serious losses occasioned, both to the Company,
and to private traders, by such management, (which then appeared to be
inevitable, though not so in reality, since Bengal could have received
and repaired them,) rendered it a desideratum to obtain some port, not
far removed from our principal settlements. The fortune of war once put
us in possession of Trincomalee; but, somehow or other, it was re-taken:
as we have now command over the whole of Ceylon, it is to be hoped we
shall have the wit to keep it.

The construction of keeled boats being, in many respects, unsuitable to
intercourse between the shipping and the shore, recourse is always had
to the common country boats, called ‘masoolahs;’ which, however rude
their formation may appear, are perfectly adequate to every purpose, and
convey both goods and passengers with general safety.

These masoolah-boats may carry from forty to sixty tons; they are made
of plank, about two inches in thickness above, and three below, fastened
together by means of coir; that is, the fibres of cocoa-nut rinds,
passed through small holes pierced along the edges of the several
planks, all around each: these planks appear as though sewed together
with twine of the above description, and are fastened to battens and
sleepers, answering for ribs and floor timbers. At the bottom, planks
are laid in the opposite direction of these, which form the vessel, and
near the gun-whales, several thwarts are secured across; they passing
through the sides, and being firmly pinned in. There is no deck, and the
rudder consists of a large kind of oar, rigged out at the stern.

At a little distance, the masoolah-boats look like rude imitations of
our coal-barges: they row from ten to sixteen oars, and when unladen
make more speed than persons accustomed to wherries, or to ships’
pinnaces, would expect; getting through the surf, both coming and going,
with amazing facility: though sometimes, owing to letting them swing
round, instead of steering head-on, they fill, or overset: but this very
rarely happens; and the mere act of ‘swamping’, unless in the first, or
outward surf, is not attended with any imminent danger; the next wave
generally impelling the boat, and all that it contains, high (but not
_dry_,) upon the beach, where it is soon run up out of the water’s way.

In order to encourage the boatmen to exert themselves towards saving any
Europeans who may be in danger, owing to a masoolah-boat’s upsetting in
the surf, the Company allow premiums, generally medals, to such as may
prove their title thereto. Several of the Company’s servants, and
others, owe their lives to the activity of these people, a few of whom
have been enabled to retire upon a very comfortable subsistence allowed
to them by those gentlemen they had rescued. It is much to be lamented,
that the Company have never been able to adopt the only efficient means
of breaking the surf for a few hundreds of yards; namely, by conical
caissons, forming an angle in front of the landing place. Nature has
done this for the Portugueze at Pernambuco, forming a bar of coral, at
the end of which is a battery: the sea at all times breaks with
tremendous violence upon the Bar, and sometimes, though very rarely,
dashes over the guns. The supposed objection will be, that, owing to the
great expanse of the coast of Coromandel, nothing could be made to
resist the force of the water. But, in answer to this, I must observe,
that Pernambuco is much more exposed than Madras, it being subject to
the force of the trade winds, blowing all the year round from the
south-west, across that immense, uninterrupted ocean lying between the
two continents of Africa and America, while a very strong current at the
same time sweeps round, and causes the surf to rise with full as much
violence as in any part of the East. At Pernambuco, vessels lie within
the bar, where the water is perfectly still, and deep enough for those
of four hundred tons to ride clear of the sandy bottom. At Madras, we
could scarcely expect to see so extensive a desideratum obtained, as
should afford shelter to the numerous ships of great burthen which
frequent its Roads; the expence would be enormous; otherwise, we should
be as well able to form such a barrier there, as the French were at
Cherburg. It may be said, that the inconvenience attached to the works
at the latter place, namely, a vast accumulation of sand, would follow:
that would by no means be likely to take place in so very strong a tide,
with deep water at hand; and if it should, might perhaps rather tend to
facilitate the measure, and to augment the strength of the defences.

It is indispensably necessary, when going ashore at Madras, or in any
part where the surf runs high, to be well covered with a boat-cloak, or
some ample exterior clothing; for, even under the best management, and
during the most favorable weather, the spray will rise around the boat,
completely wetting whatever finery may be exposed to its action. Nor
must it be considered any way extraordinary, if a large portion of that
surf which propels the boat, should pour over her stern or quarters, so
as to drench the whole party!

The masoolah-boats are, with great propriety, under the sole management
of the master-attendant, or the beach-master. None can put off without
licence; and no person can be admitted to serve on board who is not an
expert and bold swimmer. I believe, that instances of individuals of any
description being lost are extremely rare: such as are enumerated, took
place chiefly at the outer surf, (there being usually three following
waves to pass, or to accompany,) where the water is very deep, and where
immense numbers of ground-sharks are ever on the watch for what accident
may throw in their way. It may readily be supposed the shore is
tolerably bold, when it is explained, that our Indiamen, deeply laden,
have been several times necessitated to warp to the very edge of the
outer surf, in consequence of an enemy’s fleet having entered the Roads,
with the view to cut them out.

So soon as a vessel is seen standing into the Roads, signals are
hoisted, which it is expected she should, if a man of war, or a
Company’s ship, be able to answer. On her approach to the anchorage, a
boat puts off, with a deputation from the beach-master, to enquire
whence she comes, as well as to take the purser, &c. ashore with the
despatches. In this first boat, a number of debashes are sure to arrive,
bringing with them various articles of provision, fruits, &c. as
presents to the captain and officers; whose favor each of them courts,
under the hope of being employed as the agent for the ship, or for the
supply of necessaries, and for providing lodgings for individuals.

These debashes are generally men of property, and of some consequence
among the natives, owing to their having at times so many purchases to
make for those who arrive at Madras; but especially where the supplies
necessary for a whole ship, or sometimes for a whole fleet, are in
question. They all speak broken English, understanding far beyond what
they can express in our language; they are servile to an extreme, and
most completely trained in every money-making device.

The provision brought on board usually consists of half-starved mutton,
buffalo-beef, which might safely be classed with carrion, some tolerable
fowls, with, eventually, a few ducks and geese, yams, biringals,
capsicums, and other vegetable productions. Fish abound in the Roads,
yet are rather scarce, and are very rarely brought on board: this is in
a measure owing to the greater number of fishermen being private
servants, who are obliged to supply their masters first. It is said,
that the water-serpents, which abound in the Roads, and may be seen, in
beautiful varieties, to rise, at all hours to the surface, destroy great
quantities of the smaller kinds: this I can easily suppose to be true;
but, having occasionally seen the catamarans returning from the offing,
with immense loads of the best sorts, it would be difficult to convince
me, that the scarcity of fish in the market, and on board the ships in
the Roads, does not proceed from either the want of industry, or of
regulation.

Few people, taking all things into consideration, are more hospitable
than the Europeans residing at Madras: where deficiency in that respect
is supposed to exist, we may, by due consideration of peculiar
circumstances, relating to the person, or to the place, always find some
sufficient apology. Being so much frequented, and the number of European
gentlemen resident on the spot being comparatively trifling, it cannot
be expected they should keep open house, or indulge their friendly
dispositions in the exercise of unlimited kindness. In fact, the
expectations of those who visit Madras, on their way from Europe to
India, are, for the chief part, rather too sanguine: they have heard
much of Indian hospitality, and wonder at that disappointment which is
purely the offspring of their own unreasonable anticipations. I know not
of any situation where a letter of introduction is of more avail, or
indeed more necessary, than this: but such letter should be addressed to
some person resident at Madras; else it may be perfectly nugatory, in
consequence of the immense expanse over which the civil servants, as
well as the military, are scattered. A young gentleman taking out a
dozen letters, may, on his arrival, find them entirely useless, in
consequence of the parties being absent from the presidency.

The passengers of every class are expected to reside on shore during the
ship’s detention in the Roads. Few, indeed, neglect to avail themselves
of the opportunity offered of seeing one of our principal fortresses,
and of observing the customs of a country so celebrated in history, and
forming so essential a branch of the British Empire. If an introduction
is obtained, by any means, the usual result will be an invitation to
reside with the gentleman if he keeps house; otherwise, every attention
will be paid in seeing the stranger accommodated, at the best house of
that description which admits boarders; and which are commonly called
‘Punch-Houses.’ This designation doubtless arose from the habits of
those who first settled in India, and who, finding spirits, sugar, and
limes, (a small species of lemon,) every where abundant, indulged in
copious draughts of punch. That beverage is now completely obsolete,
unless among sea-faring persons, who rarely fail to experience its
deleterious effects. In all sea-ports, taverns, or punch-houses, are
more frequented than in places where shipping lie in some distant road,
or harbour. This occasions them to be more respectable in the opinions
of those who keep them, but nothing could reconcile a gentleman, long
resident in the country, to seek an accommodation among them: it would
imply a total want of respectable connexions: and, in itself, appear
sufficient cause for avoiding his acquaintance: so different are the
customs of different places!

Totally ignorant of the language, and without any guide, it is not to be
wondered that so many impositions are practised on our countrymen on
their arrival in India. A debash of the lowest order, and of the most
crafty disposition, perfectly experienced in all the ordinary
requisitions of Europeans, and prompt to gratify their desires so long
as profit attends the speculation, is ever at the elbow of the novice,
serving as banker, purveyor, pimp, and interpreter. What more can be
requisite to ruin an helpless, inconsiderate youth?

Most of the gentlemen in the Company’s service reside in the fort, or at
houses a few miles off, in the country, or at St. Thomas’s Mount, about
six miles from Madras, where the Artillery are usually quartered,
together with the troops destined to defend the works in case of attack.
The incursions to which the Carnatic was formerly exposed, during the
times of Hyder, and of Tippoo, rendered it expedient to fortify the
Black-Town; which is very extensive, and contains the houses of many
highly respectable European merchants, chiefly British and Portugueze,
together with the entire property of the richer natives of rank and
consequence. I cannot say the Black-Town is an enviable site for
residence; but the situation, being subject to the land and sea breezes,
the latter of which are as refreshing as the former are debilitating,
reconcile the older inhabitants to many inconveniences, among which,
smoke is by no means the least obnoxious. The musquitoes are here
tolerably numerous, as are also rats of all sizes, cock-roaches, and
scorpions: the latter grow to an immense size, and are peculiarly
venomous. That most loathsome companion, the bug, is to be found here in
such swarms, that it is by no means uncommon to see them crawling about
at all hours, and in all places.

St. Thomas’s Mount is certainly the more pleasant station and may be
fairly put in competition with any of those rural retreats, called
‘Garden-Houses,’ scattered every where in the vicinity of the capital:
at these, many families reside all the year round; the gentlemen who
have offices to attend, being conveyed thereto in the mornings, either
in palanquins, or in their carriages; the climate by no means favoring
much exercise on horse-back.

Except at that season when the flag-staff is struck, Madras Roads are,
in general, much resorted to by shipping. Being the seat of government
on the Coromandel coast, it necessarily has become the emporium of that
side of the peninsula. Most of the China ships touch there, and very few
of those proceeding to Bengal omit to call; especially when war either
prevails, or is expected to break out. It is much to be lamented, that
no means have yet been devised, nor, indeed, appear easily practicable,
of rendering the Roads safe against the attack of an enemy. The fort
certainly could repel any attempt to land within the reach of its
cannon; but there does not appear any possibility of preventing an
enterprising enemy from causing all the shipping, either to surrender,
or to run ashore. Perhaps hulks might be so stationed, as to become very
efficient in the defence of whatever shipping might remain beyond the
surfs. One or two old 64 gun ships properly prepared against boarding,
might, at all times, suffice, if moored with chains in proper
situations, under cover of the batteries.

It being indispensable that every person should be conversant with the
several coins, or currency, in which payments are made, or accounts
kept, I recommend to my readers to make themselves acquainted with the
tables of coins, weights, and measures, in use at Madras: observing,
that, throughout the dependant provinces, an endless variety in the two
last are to be found; and that, consequently, all dealings must be
regulated in proportion to the encreased, or diminished, variations,
wherever situated. The ‘EAST INDIA DIRECTORY’ will be found to contain
whatever may relate to this subject, including the three presidencies.

Conceiving, that, with few exceptions, the customs of many classes among
the natives of Bengal, assimilate greatly with those of the population
on the coast, I shall now pass on to the ordinary occurrences attendant
upon the arrival of a ship off the Sand-Heads, in the Bay of Balasore.
It has been already stated, that the voyage from Madras to Bengal will
depend, in regard to duration, entirely upon the season. If the
southerly monsoon prevails, Point Palmiras, which is at the southern
boundary of Balasore Roads, may be made in from three to seven days:
during the northerly monsoon, it is usual, experience having confirmed
what accident probably first suggested, to stretch over to the opposite
side of the bay upon a wind, and then to run obliquely across on the
other tack, so as to arrive in soundings of the mouth of the Hooghly,
where the tides will speedily convey a vessel up to any place on the
river, notwithstanding the wind’s direction. During the passage, under
the former prevalence, the land is not, in general, seen until the water
becomes obviously discolored with sand. In the first instance, the
course is made directly from Madras Roads, to gain a good offing,
whereby the dangerous shoals of Pulicat, about five miles north of
Madras, may be avoided: the land all along the coast being invariably
low, and the shallows projecting, in some places, full ten miles
seaward, it is prudent to keep rather towards the middle of the bay,
and, from a N.N.E. course, to change latterly to a N.N.W; rounding in,
when the latitude directs, until Point Palmiras may be from four to six
leagues distant.

It is of infinite importance to be correct in making that point, which
is best regulated by a perfect knowledge of the latitude, there being a
promontory very similar thereto, thence designated ‘False Point’; by
mistaking which many vessels have been lost. When in sight of Point
Palmiras, it is usual to await the arrival of some pilot-vessel, of
which one or more are always on the look-out below the Sand-Heads, and
to proceed into the river under her guidance. The capture of several of
those vessels having occurred within these few years, in consequence of
French privateers anchoring, as though in want of pilots, thus taking
advantage, in the most infamous and unprincipled manner, of an
institution, that ought ever to be held sacred, has given occasion for
many precautions, which must inevitably be attended with inconvenience,
and even danger, on particular occasions. In lieu of proceeding boldly
towards vessels anchored at the usual _ne plus ultra_, the pilots now
draw off towards the channels, allowing the ships to follow at some
distance, and refraining from sending a boat on board, until, by their
knowledge of the soundings, the schooners may be placed out of danger.
If all should prove right, which is soon ascertained by the signals made
by the mate sent on board the ship to be piloted, the schooners may then
proceed with confidence; but if any suspicion should remain, an alarm
would instantly be given; and, if possible, the enemy be decoyed among
those dreadful shoals, where, being once entangled, he must fall an easy
prey to such force as might be sent against him.

There are various channels by which a ship may proceed to the harbour of
Kedgeree, situated many miles up the river, but those most frequented,
especially by such as import, are the middle, and left channels, which
have, however, barely three fathoms and a half at low water;
consequently, ships of burthen are commonly brought to anchor, in such
positions as may allow their taking advantage of the best part of the
tide for passing the shallows: nevertheless, the sand is ploughed up, by
the action of a ship’s passage over them, in such manner as would lead
one, at first sight, to conclude she were touching the ground, when
perhaps her keel is many feet above it. During daylight, the
pilot-schooner makes few signals, but, after night-fall, on every heave
of the lead, she communicates, by means of _maroons_, (which are
flambeaux of an immense size, alternately exhibited and concealed in a
large tub,) the exact soundings in which she is proceeding. No greater
care can possibly be taken, than in the Company’s pilot-service, to
conduct ships in safety: exclusive of character, there is much at stake;
for no pilot who loses one of the Company’s ships, is retained on the
list: he is, _ipso facto_, dismissed. This regulation, which, no doubt,
may, in a few cases, press hard on very meritorious individuals, must be
considered one of the most important props of the institution, among
persons who may have habitually indulged in the use of spirituous
liquors to a dangerous excess. I knew some of the pilots who were
perfectly sensible of their failings, and could not be induced, either
by temptation, or entreaty, to taste of any beverage stronger than water
or country-beer, until they had seen their charges moored in safety.
That being done—good bye to forbearance!

It is not a little wonderful, that men who have the power to overrule a
dangerous propensity, merely when their professional characters are at
stake, should at every other moment throw aside that curb, which, if
duly maintained, would preserve their health, and render them far more
acceptable members of society!

The country all along the sea-coast, on both sides of the river’s mouth,
being extremely low, and there being no hills of sufficient altitude to
be distinguished at sea, especially on the right bank, very little
gratification is offered to the eye by the surrounding scenery. The
shelving beach, on either hand, is overgrown, in most parts, with trees
rarely exceeding twenty feet in height, whose stems are surrounded with
under-wood, or grass jungle, in which abundance of deer are to be found.
The pursuit of sport must, however, be invariably desisted from, on
account of the immense numbers of tigers which occupy the same covers.
It rarely happens that a party land for the purpose of shooting deer, or
wild hogs, (which are equally abundant,) without meeting with some
accident; or, at least, being frightened so as to produce the most
salutary forbearance. About twenty-five years ago, a son of the late Sir
Hector Monro was carried off by a tiger from among his comrades, who had
seated themselves round a large fire, made to obviate the apprehended
danger, while they awaited the arrival of a boat that was to convey them
back to their ship.

All the way, from Balasore up to Kedgeree, the prospect, if we except
those agreeable sensations arising from the display of vegetation, and
from arriving at the ultimate thule of destination, rather wearies than
pleases: nothing is to be seen but a series of wilderness, perhaps here
and there enclosing a few huts, or, in the broken intervals, displaying
some insignificant village, of which the inhabitants are as poor as they
are idle. No public edifice; no gay villas; no busy hum of men; no
crowded wharfs! In fact, I scarcely know a spot more dreary than the
debouché of the Hooghly, for at least thirty miles; or until arrival at
Diamond Harbour.

It is usual for the pilot-schooner to return to the Roads, in search of
other importations, unless her tour may be over; in which instance, she
proceeds up to Calcutta; leaving a person on board, lest the vessel
should drag her anchors, and to prevent her getting into foul ground.
The purser, for the most part, avails himself of the attendance of the
_chokey-boats_, which are always plying about the mouth of the rivers
for the express purpose of receiving packets. In favorable seasons,
these boats have been known to reach Calcutta, distant full sixty miles,
in one tide. If a schooner should be proceeding up the river, there
should be no hesitation in embarking in her: no equal accommodation can,
in general, be had: the whole risk, trouble, and delay, attendant upon
making a passage in any of the common country boats, are at once
annihilated. The pilot may possibly expect some return for his good
offices; but, if he likes his company, will, in all probability, set
them ashore at Calcutta free of all expence.

I should not envy the purser his trip in a chokey-boat, with no other
than a very small semi-circular covering of mats, under which it is
impossible to sit upright, except exactly under its centre. In
tempestuous seasons, and such are generally the periods in which the
Indiamen arrive, there is often a high swell between Kedgeree and Fulta,
the river being in some parts from three to six miles across, and
running to the southward, from which quarter the wind blows very
forcibly for five months at least. Therefore, although so very few
accidents happen, it cannot be considered as a safe voyage between the
ship and the capital. The chokey-boats are all under the
master-attendant, and bear the Company’s colors, on a small staff, or,
at times, at the head of the mast, made of a single bamboo, nearly as
long as the boat; which ordinarily rows ten or twelve oars. Being of a
light construction, and divested of all superfluous apparatus, the
chokey-boats proceed at a prodigious rate; and, on emergency, even when
opposed by the tide, can gain from two to six miles hourly; according as
they may be able to row along the slack water; to pole up against the
more rapid streams; or to track up, when both wind and tide are strongly
adverse.

When relatives, or particular friends, are on board any ship whose
arrival is expected, it is customary to send a stout pinnace-budgrow to
meet her at Kedgeree, there to receive the persons for whose
accommodation it was provided. When this act of kindness takes place,
all the necessary provision, a bed, table, chairs, &c. are put on board,
together with a proper number of servants of such description as are
generally needful on the water. Few who have any feeling for their
noviciate companions on board, especially those who have been in India,
quit the ship without taking with them as many as the pinnace can,
without distressing all, receive. This wind-fall does not happen every
day; though few ships return to India without conveying one or more old
standards, either civil or military: but it is not always that notice
can be received of a ship’s being about to import; and when such notice
has been received, it is not always thought of, or perhaps practicable,
to send a pinnace to receive an old friend.

Persons in a delicate state of health should, if possible, wait till
some safe and comfortable conveyance can be obtained. The most certain
mode is, to commission the purser to hire a vessel the moment he reaches
Calcutta, and to send her off under charge of some servant, who should
see that no delay were made by the boatmen; which, if paid by the day,
would inevitably follow. The misfortune is, that very few can endure to
be confined so much longer on board, and often impatiently reject such a
proposition: here we may expect to find that the greatest haste makes
the worst speed; at the same time that the expences are encreased
greatly, while the accommodations are deteriorated in exact ratio.

Now and then, an adventurous manjee, (or boat-master,) who knows how to
make a good bargain, will linger about Diamond Harbour, or lay up in
Culpee Creek, with the intent of going down, wind and tide permitting,
to the first ship which may arrive from Europe. Such men are certain of
a good fare, it being very common to give from fifty rupees (about six
guineas) to one hundred (about twelve guineas) for the trip. Such an
opportunity, however extravagant the terms may appear, ought not to be
lost; it being a great chance whether a second vessel of the same
description may proceed to the ship. As to small boats, rowing four or
six oars, and having either a thatched cabin, or a semi-circular awning
of mats, several of them may come along-side; but they will not be found
to yield the smallest accommodation beyond shelter from the sun; while
their manjees will not fail to take every advantage of whatever
distress, or difficulty, the passenger may labor under.

It would not be just to infer, from what I have said, respecting the
readiness with which the boatmen avail themselves of the necessities of
persons desirous to leave a ship, that they are particularly covetous,
or prone to imposition: we need only look at home, where we shall find
that no mercy is shewn to such unfortunate persons as become the prey of
our watermen, along the whole extent of our coast. See with what
hard-hearted, callous apathy, the boatman views the distress of the
unthinking youth, who, either by neglect, or by accident, remains on
shore after the boats that frequent his own ship, then under weigh, have
put off! What prayers, or arguments, short of those issuing from the
purse, can urge him to relieve the anxiety of him, whose whole hope,
whose only resource, lies in that voyage for which every preparation has
been made, and for which expences, often nearly ruinous to friends and
connections, have been defrayed! I speak not of those who are in a hurry
to quit their ships, before coming to an anchor; if they will have their
way, they must pay for such intemperate haste; it is an expence they
have the option of avoiding.

Really, when we come to a fair computation of the risks attendant upon
taking a vessel, built expressly for accommodation, and not intended to
meet the rude surges of, what may be called, an arm of the sea; that
from twelve to eighteen men are engaged; that much time is lost in
waiting arrivals; that full sixty miles are to be passed over; and that,
perhaps, four or five gentlemen, with all their luggage that may be at
hand, are conveyed; I say, when all this is considered, although we
certainly, from habit of having things cheaper in India, may deem even
the fifty rupees exorbitant, yet there appears far less reason to find
fault with the extortion of the Indian than there is to condemn the
cruel rapacity of the English boatman!

Whatever may be the rate at which the boat, supposing it to be a
pinnace-budgrow, is engaged, no apparatus of any description should be
expected; for none will be found. There will usually be an open veranda
in the front, having three or four steps to descend from the deck
thereto; it being on the same level with the front, or dining room. The
after-room narrows considerably towards the stern; and, on account of
the vessel’s form, its floor is usually raised one or two steps; this is
the sleeping apartment: at the stern is a small slip, serving for a
quarter-gallery: The roofs of these boats are usually flat; and some
have side-rails above to prevent luggage, or those who sleep there, from
falling overboard. The sides are furnished, for their whole length, with
Venetian blinds, in frames which lift up by means of hinges at their
tops; and a long curtain, made either of tarpaulin, or of painted, or of
white canvas, is nailed on the outside; letting down at pleasure, to
keep out wind, rain, dust, &c. The baling-place is ordinarily about the
centre of the front room; that being the deepest part of the boat’s
bottom. Baggage may be put under the deck; but that part is generally
occupied by the dandies, (or rowers,) if permitted to sleep there; or
perhaps the manjee may think it worth his while to make it a trading
voyage and lay in salt, rice, &c. to be disposed of to advantage on his
arrival at the presidency.

From this concise detail it will be seen, that some penance must be
undergone, even in this kind of boat, and supposing it to be perfectly
fitted up with the above defences against bad weather: but such will
rarely turn out to be the case. The sea-cot is now of singular use; its
hooks being withdrawn from the ship’s beams, and inserted in those of
the budgrow. Those who had standing bed-places, must spread their
mattresses, &c. on the floor: all must sit upon their trunks, or
whatever may be at hand; and every little article of convenience brought
from the ship will become useful. Candles, candle-sticks, tin-ware,
glasses, &c. are now invaluable. As to table-cloths, there being no
table, they may be cheerfully dispensed with; as may also knives and
forks, there being no plates; it being probable that curry and rice,
prepared by the boatmen, will form the bill of fare. Those who are fond
of savoury dishes, may, in this instance, gratify themselves with a
repast in high estimation among the gentlemen of India: viz. a dandy’s
curry; but I fear, that those who have been in the habit of eating made
dishes, at a distance from the culinary operations, may not altogether
relish the manner of preparation, nor be invariably pleased with the
appearance of the cook; whose habiliments will probably consist of a
cloth wrapped round his waist, then passed between his thighs, and a
small cap, if the party be a Mussulman; if a Hindu, the entire dress may
be composed of a small cord tied round his waist for the purpose of
supporting a narrow piece of cloth passed between his thighs thus barely
answering the purpose of a fig-leaf. Herpetic eruptions, in large
patches, all over the back, breast and arms, together with obvious
symptoms of a more troublesome cutaneous complaint, about the fingers,
&c. are by no means rare, yet never disqualify the scratching sufferer
from officiating as cook to the crew! Were such _trifles_ to be
objectionable, it might be somewhat difficult to get a dinner dressed.

It being utterly impracticable to row a budgrow against the tide, which
ordinarily runs from three to six miles in the hour, and many
difficulties presenting themselves to render it by no means easy to
track along the shore, especially where the mud-banks shelve out a great
way, the manjee will probably come to near some village, or in some
creek, during the ebb; and, as it rarely happens that the first of the
flood is taken, particularly during the night time, in all probability
the best part of three days will be expended between Kedgeree and
Calcutta. If a few bottles of wine, a small quantity of biscuit, a piece
of beef, or of pork, and a pack of cards, have been supplied from the
ship, so much the more agreeably will the time be passed; but I cannot
forbear from observing, that intemperance at this time rarely fails to
bring on fevers, such as baffle the art of man. Those who heat their
blood on first entering the country, whether by drinking, or by exposure
to the sun, become subject to diseases of the liver which are too often
incurable, and finally, though after some years perhaps, drag their
lingering victim to the grave. With respect to bathing, it is not only
insalubrious, as practised by persons who have not proper apparatus at
hand, but highly dangerous, on account of the incredible numbers of
alligators and sharks, which infest not only the great river, but every
little creek, and puddle, within reach of the tide.

The manjee generally endeavors to reach Culpee, Fultah, or Diamond
Harbour, with the first tide: at either of those places many articles of
provision may be had, and there will be found some persons who can speak
a little English. These will invariably do all in their power to
encourage the purchase of many things of no use whatever, but which
become perquisites to the manjee, on his passengers quitting the vessel.
Abundance of poultry may be seen; but, with the exception of a curry,
there will no method of dressing them; unless accidentally some person
be on board, in whatever capacity, who can trim a fowl, and roast it. If
fish are to be had, they will come under the same difficulty; so that,
like Sancho, in the midst of plenty, a man may be next to starving, if
he cannot make up his mind to partake of the dandies’ curry.

It is proper to caution against eating much fruit, though it may be
perfectly ripe: unseasonable avidity in this way has proved fatal to
many on their arrival. A few bananas will not incommode; but the
cocoa-nut, however pleasant and refreshing it may be, should be partaken
of very sparingly; it being extremely apt to affect the bowels, as is
also the jack.

Those who have never had an opportunity of seeing the fire-fly, will be
agreeably surprized at the millions of those little luminaries, which at
night bespangle every bush: displaying themselves in the most vivid
manner. The hind parts of these insects, which may be about the size of
common house-flies, are replete with a brilliant substance, similar to
that contained in the glow-worm, and, like it, equally innocent. It is
extremely curious, that, in many parts of the ocean, immense shoals of
the luminous sea-maggot, each about the size of a man’s finger, should
be seen at nights, causing the water to assume a phosphoric appearance.
In sailing through these living shoals, abundance may be drawn up in
buckets; while, at the same time, innumerable fishes of prey may be
heard, or seen, rushing among them, and, no doubt, making many a hearty
meal. The great distance from all land at which these shoals are to be
found, must cause us to wonder at their origin, and at their future
purposes; for we can scarcely suppose them to be derived from
terrestrial parents; nor is it very easy to reconcile to ourselves, that
they change into fishes of any kind. It should rather seem that
all-bountiful Providence has created them for the sole purpose of
affording sustenance to those fishes, which, in consequence of their
remaining, perhaps altogether, remote from every shore, would, but for
these _larvæ_, (as we must, for want of knowing better, call them,) be
unable to subsist.

Persons arriving from Europe, rarely have any but British coins; in the
disbursing of which many impositions will be practised. The best mode is
to tender the whole, without delay, to some of the English agency
houses, who will readily pay their full value; it being often a matter
of difficulty to obtain a few guineas for their friends who may be about
to embark, without paying an exorbitant sum to the _shroff’s_, or native
bankers, who can acquire them only from such persons as import with the
Indiamen, and are rarely acquainted with their real value.

Accounts are generally kept in current rupees, which are considered,
(though in themselves nominal, there being no such coin,) the standard
to which all other denominations of money should be reduced: this is, in
fact, the application of one term, whereby all others are to be
appreciated. It is often found useful to have a second column, in every
folio, wherein to note the corresponding amounts in sicca rupees, they
being in general use. The infinite variety, both of gold mohurs, and of
rupees, renders it highly necessary for the young adventurer to be
careful, lest he should receive such as are of inferior value; a trick
extremely common among servants, as well as _shroffs_, _sircars_, and
shop-keepers; all of whom will exercise their cunning to obtain the
smallest advantage, and derive peculiar satisfaction from involving the
matter in as much confusion as possible.

The Calcutta seer is fixed at eighty sicca rupees weight; the factors’
maund, of the same place, amounts to one-tenth less, on account of its
having but seventy-two siccas to its seer. In the upper provinces, even
the neighbouring villages often vary to a great extent; some seers being
only sixty-four pice, while others are ninety-six; the pice and the
sicca rupee being nearly of a weight. Nor is the value of a pice, which
is a copper coin, less uncertain; on some days they are at sixty to a
rupee, at other times, as high as sixty-five or sixty-six; just as may
happen to suit the _shroffs_, who, by this fluctuation, create a kind of
stock-jobbing traffic; whereby they rob the public as much, and as
often, as they please; no one interfering to control this nefarious and
unparalleled insolence!

The following varieties regarding the _guz_ should be understood; they
being what formerly were in use, and upon which many details of ancient
occurrences and measurements depend.

The _guz-soudah_, 24⅔ of a finger, as measured by Haroon Resheed from
the hand of one of his slaves. This was the basis of the nilometer, and
of the yard for measuring cloths. The _guz-me-sahet_ measured
twenty-eight fingers, and that of Humaion thirty-two: the latter was
used by order of Sheer Khan, and Selim Khan, for the measurement of
cultivated lands. Akber also allowed a _guz_ of forty-six fingers to be
used for cloth only, and one measuring forty-two _isecunderees_, (small
coins of base silver,) to be used for other purposes. This is called the
_secundry-guz_. A _coss_ is generally accepted at two English miles, and
will, for the most part, be found to come within a mere trifle of that
measurement. In some places, they reckon by the _puckah_, or long coss;
in others, by the _ghow-coss_, which alludes to that distance the lowing
of cattle may be heard: this is also called the _cutcha-coss_; meaning
imperfect, or short. The fact is, that the length of a coss is perfectly
undefined by any proper standard, or explanation. What else, indeed, can
be expected in a country where there are neither public roads, nor inns,
public conveyances, nor even mile stones, or directing posts, on the
most practised routes.

Among other salutary and useful, but unfortunately temporary,
regulations, the Emperor Akber fixed the coss at 5000 guz, equal to 4757
yards, or two miles, five furlongs, of our standard. Shah Jehan
afterwards encreased it, by the addition of one furlong; but both their
measurements gradually fell into disuse, and the old nominal coss of
Hindostan again came into vogue. Including all the variations, however,
in what are called puckah-cosses there appear less anomalies than might
be expected in a range of 1700 miles, throughout which no determinate
law, on that subject, obtains. Computing by horizontal measurements,
between places whose distances are accurately known, it appears that the
coss may be taken at a mile and nine-tenths: in this, one mile in seven
is thrown into the computation, to account against the winding of roads.
In the Malwa country, the cosses are about an eighth longer than in the
Company’s dominions towards that quarter; while, in the vicinity of
Masulipatam they are in the same proportion shorter. The goondy coss of
the Nagpore district, is about three miles. Perhaps the most absurd mode
of ascertaining the length of a coss, which, by the by, must be a very
short one, and, according to the statement of Abu Fazil, was practised
among the Hindus, depended on ‘One thousand steps taken by a woman
bearing a child’ (of what age is not specified) ‘in her arms, and a jar
of water’, (also indefinite as to bulk,) ‘on her head!’ Again, ‘the
distance a man could go, at a quick pace, without being out of breath’,
was accounted a coss! Others determined that measurement by ‘plucking a
green leaf, and bearing it on their heads until it became dry!’

The most rational, and simple mode of adjustment, appears to be that
ordered by Sheer Khan, viz. sixty _jereebs_ of sixty _guz_ each. This
would be about 3500 yards; being only twenty less than two statute
miles. Whenever the emperor marched with his armies, persons were
appointed to measure his route, by means of bamboos cut to the length of
twelve and a half _ilahi-guz_; four hundred bamboos being accounted a
coss; which, as already specified, amounted to two miles and five
furlongs.

The land-measure in use among the Europeans of Calcutta, is thus
arranged.

 20 feet by 20, equal to 400 square feet make                1 _cottah_,

 20 cottahs                                                1 _beegah_ or
                                                                 _bigah_

The natives are more particular in their divisions of the beegah, they
average its parts in the following manner.

  30 square feet                           make         1 _chattack_,

  16 chattacks                                          1 _cottah_ or
                                                            _biswah_,

  20 cottahs, or biswahs, (_i.e._ twentieths)           1 _beegah_ or
                                                             _bigah_.

Among the peasantry, other beegahs are in use, viz. one which has an
area of 3600 _ilahi-guz_, equal to 3025 square yards; but, in general,
the _dessy-bigah_ of only 1600 square yards, prevails. This _ilahi-guz_
is divided into twenty-four tesuj, each of which, in the long _guz_
should be equal to the breadth of eight ordinary barley corns; but in
the short _guz_, only of six. The former was used in great works; the
latter in small ones, such as manufactures, &c.

All goods being landed under the inspection of custom-house officers,
the passenger will have little opportunity of interfering in regard to
his baggage, or merchandize. Nor should I recommend his attempting,
personally, to transact any business before he may have delivered his
letters of credit, or of introduction. That should be his first step;
both because it will be the means of managing all his concerns with
facility, and, probably, of being comfortably situated, without having
occasion to resort to a tavern.

Here I deem it an indispensable duty, to warn the young adventurer not
to dissipate his money, ruin his health, and injure his reputation, by
frequenting taverns. In England, where persons who do not keep house
must occasionally sit down to a meal in public, custom has not only
connived at, but sanctioned, the resort to coffee-houses, &c. With us,
these afford convenience to thousands, who could never provide so
comfortably at home, at the same expence. The coffee-houses in Europe
may likewise be considered as the rendezvous of persons in the same line
of business, and offering the opportunity for adjusting a thousand
matters, which, either owing to remote residence, or to the pressure of
other concerns, could not else be brought to immediate conclusion.

The taverns in India are upon a very different plan: they are either of
the first rate, at which public dinners are occasionally given; or they
are of that mean description which receive all who have a rupee to
spend, under the determination of extracting that rupee, in some shape
or other. The former class is very confined in numbers, but the latter
are abundantly numerous, and may be readily distinguished by the
promiscuous company, the shabbiness of the treatment, and the excess of
imposition practised, especially on novices. It is extremely easy to
avoid the necessity for running into the mouths of these leviathans: all
that is requisite, being merely to call at the first office, or shop,
and to enquire for the residence of the gentleman to whom the letter of
introduction may be addressed. No ceremony should be used in explaining
the circumstances, and in soliciting the aid of a servant to lead the
way. I never yet heard of a want of civility on such occasions.

In speaking thus confidently regarding a letter of introduction, I am
pre-supposing, that the case alludes to a person not appointed to the
service of the Company: for I cannot conceive what could induce any man
of respectability to visit India, without some substantial
recommendation, or, indeed, unless under some agreement, or sufficient
assurance of being employed in such manner as might tend to certain
advantage. Nothing can be more forlorn than the situation of a mere
adventurer, on his arrival in India! With money in his pocket, he may
assuredly subsist; but, without some friend to introduce him into
society, he may remain for years without being noticed; for, throughout
the East, and especially at the several presidencies, he who knows
nobody, him will nobody know! Residence at a tavern, is, in itself, a
perfect disqualification among persons of repute; as implying either an
addiction to liquor, or a predilection for low company.

In saying this, I must not be understood as denying, that some worthy
characters have been rescued from perpetual degradation, by accidental
intercourse with persons of peculiar sensibility: but such nice
feelings, and that unqualified liberality, which may have been
occasionally discovered in a few individuals, are rarely united; and,
when they are, it too often happens that the power to render them
effectively beneficial is altogether wanting. A man may be thoroughly
convinced of the worthiness of his protegé, but it will not always
follow that society will join him in opinion. In considering the state
of society in India, this will be evident: its being strongly inculcated
will prove serviceable to many, who may have mis-conceived the subject
in general: or who may have been led, by a too sanguine disposition, to
deem the whole toil, risk, and solicitude as being over, so soon as
their feet can rest on the terra firma of Hindostan.

The ordinary mode in which an European is attacked, on his first arrival
at Calcutta, is by the tender of a bearer, carrying a large umbrella, to
shelter master from the sun, or rain. There is something about a
stranger, in that quarter, which instantly announces him to all the
predatory tribe, who wait at the wharfs in expectation of living booty:
but, if such were not the case, his total ignorance of the language
would be sufficient to determine their conduct. The bearer, who is in
league with that numerous horde of miscreants called _sircars_,
abounding, not only at Calcutta, but throughout the lower provinces,
speedily conveys the hint to his associates, when a smooth-faced chap,
who speaks English well enough to be understood, and who comprehends
more than he will acknowledge, advances, and making a respectful
obeisance, called a _salaam_, by bending his head downwards, and placing
the palm of his right hand to his forehead, makes an offer of his
services to the stray Briton.

However prepared a youth may be, by all the cautious injunctions of
friends, and by the detail of knaveries practised by such characters,
still it is by no means easy to avoid the snare! When we reflect on the
anxiety inseparably attendant upon arrival in a country where every
thing is new, every thing strange, and where, in case of disappointment,
all must be misery; it should not surprize us to find so much dependence
placed on those who cheer the novice, by speaking to him in his native
tongue. But, admitting the folly of confiding in any stranger, how is
the case to be ameliorated? Ignorant of the language, as well as of the
customs; totally unacquainted with any soul on the spot; and eager to
obtain a shelter from the oppressive heats; what is the poor adventurer
to do? He cannot remain in the boat! He cannot take root, and vegetate,
at the water side! Nor can he perambulate the public roads, until
fatigue shall sink him to the dust, or some benevolent, and inspired
European may, on perceiving his distress, offer him an asylum! What then
is to be done?—Why, the _sircar_ must lead him to some paltry tavern, in
which he either is interested, or from whose keeper he receives a
douceur for introducing the guest. In the mean time, his baggage, with
the exception of such minutiæ as may adhere to the fingers of the
boat-men, or of those who have the handling of them on shore, will
follow, and there will be no want of attention to immediate
accommodation.

The tavern-keeper, under the plausible pretext of aiding towards the
completion of the youth’s wishes, never fails to enquire whether the
gentleman has any friends in town? or even in the country? If
affirmatively answered, ‘mine host’ feels himself tolerably secure of
his money: but will probably assert, that the friend in town is out of
the way, and will not be back for some days: should the gentleman be
totally destitute of friends, then comes the rich harvest. Imposition
following imposition, swell the bill; which, if appearances warrant
forbearance, is kept back as long as possible, under the pleasing
assurance of perfect confidence: but, in the end, a catalogue of items
is produced, which never fails to alarm, if not to ruin, the
unsuspecting victim!

If, unhappily, the guest should so far lower himself as to associate
with the ordinary company of the common drinking-room, he is
irretrievably gone. Quarrels, riots, and inebriety, must follow; in all
probability rendering him subject to the notice of the police. Should
his face ever be seen at that office, it would be next to impossible
that he should be admitted into any respectable circle. What with
lodging, dinners, wines, &c. of the worst description, but all rated at
the highest prices, he must be a fortunate wight who escapes under a
gold mohur (_i.e._ two guineas) per day: in general, double that sum is
charged; so that a person starts at the rate of £1000. per annum, at
least; while, in all probability no established, or even apparent,
provision exists, whereby he may be maintained.

If we add the allurements held out by the sable beauties, who will
contrive means to retail their charms so long as they think money is to
be had, we shall find no trifling expence incurred. This latter part of
the ceremony is usually performed by some fellow who can speak English,
and thoroughly understands whatever relates to the interest of the
concern; which, among other things, includes thieving, lying, cheating,
pimping, &c. This first essay is ordinarily made by describing the
elegance of the native women, and their great perfection as singers, and
dancers; and rarely fails, especially with youths under such
circumstances, to excite something more than curiosity. The
dancing-girls are introduced, and consequences follow, over which I
shall draw the veil; simply observing, that nothing can be more
dangerous than this irregular indulgence; it never failing, first to
drain the purse, and, in a few days, or weeks, the constitution also.

Those servants who usually ply at the wharfs, and endeavor to obtain
employment, either among the officers of ships, or among persons fresh
from Europe, for the most part speak broken English with sufficient
fluency: this renders them particularly serviceable to both those
classes, by enabling them to provide, and to act, when, without such
assistance, they would be in distress, and at a stand. It is a very
general custom among the Mussulmans of low condition, to give such of
their male children as are born during their Lent, (or _Ramzaun_,) the
name of _Ramzauny_: meaning ‘born during the _Ramzaun_.’ There being so
many thus designated, renders the name extremely common; and, as an
infinity of rogueries have been practised by persons so called, it has
rather got into disgrace. Hence, the adventurers above described are, by
a slight, but ludicrous corruption, termed _Rum-Johnnies_.

That a servant thus enabled to act as the medium of intercourse, must
prove on many occasions highly convenient, may be confessed; but, like a
double-edged sword, he may operate either way, as to himself may appear
expedient; and while pretending to serve, may be pillaging his employer.
It is to be lamented, that the stranger has no immediate resource; and,
in case of injury, little redress. The mischief is not owing to any
deficiency in the police, but arises from that invariable precaution
with which _Rum-Johnnies_ carry on their manœuvres: they never fail to
have a third person in the way, who is to disappear with the purloined
articles, and to bear all the blame; while the principal affects great
resentment at the villain’s audacity, and sorrow for master’s loss. This
is often so dexterously managed as to occasion serious quarrels, when
friends, who see through the deception, endeavor to convince the
infatuated party, that his confidential menial is at the bottom of the
roguery. The disreputable circumstance of having a thief at his elbow,
does not sit very easy on the stranger’s mind: deriving so much
convenience from _Rum-Johnny’s_ aid, and, having only the fair side of
the knave’s conduct in view, he is unwilling to give credit to what
appears a gross misrepresentation, founded on prejudice. By this means,
he sinks deeper into the mire, and renders it dangerous for his
well-wisher to attempt his extrication.

I recollect an instance of a young gentleman’s joining a regiment, about
a hundred miles up the country, who had among his servants a
_khedmutgar_, (or table-attendant,) of whom I never could get a sight.
The fellow was always sick, or busy; or some excuse was invariably made.
At length, one of my own domestics informed me, that he was a
_Rum-Johnny_ who had been discharged from my service, in which he held
the office of _mosaulchy_, (or link-boy,) for theft. I found out, that
he had been employed in the barracks at Fort-William, where he picked up
a little English, and had fastened upon the gentleman, no doubt with the
intention to avail himself of the first good prize wherewith to decamp.
Finding, to his great discomfiture, that I had been removed to that
station, where he found me, the scoundrel kept aloof, under the hope of
carrying his project into execution. Strange to say, it was with extreme
difficulty I could convince my young friend that he was the dupe of a
downright thief; who, if I had not been improperly lenient, would have
had the certificate of his crime noted on his back, by the drummers of
the regiment!

To state the evil, without pointing out the remedy, would be next to
useless: but, when I suggest the means of avoiding those difficulties,
or any portion of them, attendant on arrival in a foreign land, it must
be understood, that I consider the stranger to be possessed of pecuniary
means: that is, that he can pay his way. Without this, he can do
nothing; and must undergo all the afflictions and miseries attendant
upon despised poverty, in every part of the globe. It may be proper to
point out in this place, that what might here appear to be liberal
calculations, will not suit the East; where every article of European
manufacture bears so enormous a price, where house-rent is so expensive,
and where it is indispensably necessary to retain so many servants. The
first thing to be done, (setting a letter of recommendation out of the
question,) should be to report arrival at the secretary’s office,
depositing the certificate of the Court of Directors’ licence to proceed
to India; without which, the party is treated as an alien, and scarcely
considered entitled to British protection. This does not arise from
ill-will on the part of government, or of the inhabitants; but from that
strict attention the politics of the country imperiously demand to be
paid to the several characters, and descriptions, of persons residing
within our territory.

The above relates equally to all persons in the civil or military
branches; the certificate granted at the India House must be produced,
in order to identify the party; but if it should have been lost, he
himself, together with the commander who received the order to take him
on board, must attend, to make affadavit to that effect, before the
appointment can be admitted upon the registers in India.

Such as appertain to the civil service, being always strongly
recommended and often finding many old acquaintances of their families
on the spot, require but little advice; nor does the cadet stand much in
need of instruction, as to the manner in which he should provide himself
with a home. All he has to do is to wait upon the town-major, at his
office in Fort-William, when he will receive the necessary order for his
admission into the Cadet Corps, at Baraset, about sixteen miles from
Calcutta.

He who has not these advantages, must do the best his circumstances may
afford; he will find temperance to be not only cheap, but indispensable;
for, if he should act so indiscreetly at the outset as to injure his
health, a thousand privations, and a certain encrease of difficulties,
must follow. The first point must necessarily be to get under cover.
This will not be found so easy, as those who have never quitted England
may suppose. It will be after much research, that a small house will be
had, and then only the bare walls; for no such thing is known in India
as a furnished house to be let; and lodgings are, if possible, still
more out of the question. Fortunately, there are, among the European
shop-keepers in Calcutta, some most respectable characters; men
distinguished for their urbanity, philanthropy, and generosity.
Application should be instantly made to one of these firms, for aid, and
advice. The case should be candidly stated; and, in order to insure
confidence, a deposit of money should be made, either with them, or at
one of the Banks. The consequences will be, that, in a few hours, some
small tenement will be obtained, either on hire, or granted as a
temporary accommodation, and the whole of the articles really necessary
will be provided, at some one or other of the auctions which daily take
place within the central parts of the town.

The appointment of proper servants will be a matter of importance; but,
under the auspices of any old resident, by no means difficult; such will
be not simply the most expeditious, but the safest, way of proceeding;
since those who recommend will, in all probability, be expected,
according to the custom of the place, to become sureties for the honesty
of all persons hired through their means. One servant who can speak
English, or at least, an underling _sircar_, deputed from the warehouse,
will prove a very agreeable resource, on all occasions of difficulty;
but I cannot too forcibly inculcate the good policy, or rather the
absolute necessity, of immediately studying the language: till that is
acquired, to such an extent as may remove the necessity for an
interpreter on ordinary occasions, no person can be deemed independent;
far less, capable of acting in any civil, military, or commercial
capacity, with effect.

Strange to say I have known gentlemen to be resident from ten, to
thirty, years in India, without being able to summon resolution to
acquire sufficient of the Hindui language even to take their accounts!
With such the _sircar_ was every thing. The consequences were,
invariably, that he was rich, and master ever in distress!

Without pretending to make a very accurate estimate, I shall attempt to
give an outline of those expences to which every person keeping house,
though in the most retired manner, and on the most economical plan, must
be subjected. In doing this, I consider the instructions given for the
outfit to have been duly attended to; and, that wearing apparel, plate,
bedding, blankets, sheets, and pillow cases, have been provided. If they
have not, the whole of those articles may be rated at from fifty to a
hundred per cent. more than they would cost in England. The following
brief catalogue will be found to contain only those conveniences which
are indispensable.

                                                              Rupees.

 One dozen of chairs; say at four rupees each                       48

 One dining table for six, say                                      25

 Two tepoys (tripods) 3½ each                                        7

 One writing-table, with drawers                                    25

 One bedstead of 6 feet 4 in. by 4 feet 6 in.                       30

 Curtains to ditto; those for the exterior of chintz                20

 Inside ditto, of gauze, to keep out musquitoes                     10

 Bookcase upon chest of drawers                                    100

 China and glass-ware, say                                         100

 Shades to put over candles, one pair, say                          40

            (Those with wooden pedestals to be preferred.)
 A chillumchee (or metal bason) for washing hands, with its         25
    tripod, &c.

 A palanquin and bedding                                           100

 Table cloths and towels                                            50

 One large, and one small, satringe (cotton carpet) 25 and 10       35

 Various culinary articles, say                                     40

 A variety of small articles in cutlery, &c. say                    45

                                                                   ———

                           Making in all, on a rough estimate      700

                                                                   ———

In this I have not included a horse, because it is not every body who
keeps one, nor is it peremptorily needful; but, both as a convenience,
and as tending to health, I recommend that a cheap, safe, and quiet
poney be provided: numbers are sold every week, at all prices; but I
should think that, including the saddle and bridle, from 250 to 300
rupees, would be going far enough: say the whole expence should be 1000
sicca rupees, or £125; which will, I apprehend, be as little as any
person can expend, so as to be either creditable or comfortable. The
necessary stock of wines, spirits, wax-candles, sauces, sugar-candy,
tea, coffee, salt-petre, and a number of lesser items, would require
full 600 rupees more; under the supposition that a year’s stock were
laid in. At that rate we may compute £200. to be necessary to establish
a gentleman at his residence, supposing it to be fixed. Travelling makes
quite another concern, and will be found to encrease the disbursements
considerably.

A comparison with the prices of those articles we, in Europe, consider
to be requisite for the furniture of two or three rooms, will shew that
Calcutta is by no means a favourable market for the purchase, either of
furniture, or of wines, cattle, &c.; and should at once satisfy every
free-mariner, free-merchant, &c. proceeding to India on speculation,
that he must be provided with at least six hundred pounds to answer the
demands of his outset, including house rent, which cannot well be taken
at less than £150. per annum; his servants will amount to about as much
more; and his table expences, pocket-money, &c., on the most moderate
scale, will demand one hundred, after laying in his stock of wines, tea,
&c. So that, in all, we may think he does very well on the £600. If,
indeed, he should be so fortunate as to make numerous respectable
acquaintances, at whose tables he may frequently become a guest, a
considerable portion of the expences, stated at £100. may, perhaps, be
retrenched; but such good fortune does not happen to all; and, when it
does, rarely comes at once; it requires some time to gain that footing
which may relieve the pressure of table charges; and when that footing
has been gained, it may not be attended with more than common civility,
without the smallest prospect of being served.

I say thus much with the view to correct an opinion known to prevail,
that it is easy to get into society in India; and that then a gentleman
may put his hands in his pockets, while his friends forward him rapidly.
Such, assuredly, was the case in days of yore; but, within the last
twenty years, there have been so many retrenchments in all the public
offices, so many young men have gone to India with the hope of being
engaged in merchants’ houses, and so many have failed in those
prospects, that I should omit a very important branch of that duty I
have imposed on myself, in offering my advice to those who are about to
proceed to India, were I to encourage the idea of such supposed
facilities being realized. It should never be forgotten, that all
persons who are ignorant of the language spoken in common, namely, the
Hindui, (vulgarly called the _Moors’_,) are incompetent to any duty,
beyond what may relate to making out copies of accounts-current, and
registering correspondence: even these demand some local knowledge, to
be performed with correctness. This consideration will lead to the
conviction, that full one year must be provided for before any
employment, on which dependance can be placed for a livelihood, and
affording the prospect of future rise, should be expected.

Of such importance does this appear, that, were I to advice any young
friend, about to proceed to India, as to the manner in which he should
pass his first year, it would be nearly in the following terms: ‘Rise at
daybreak, and ride gently for one hour in the hot season, and two hours
in the cold season; make a moderate breakfast, avoiding melted butter,
salt meats, salt fish, sweetmeats, &c., good tea or coffee being
assuredly the most wholesome; study the language for an hour; attend
some office gratuitously, with the view to become acquainted with the
accounts, price-currents, markets, provisions, commodities, &c.; about
two o’clock retire to rest; about an hour before sun-set bathe, by means
of three or four large pots of water poured over the head; put on clean
linen, and dine moderately upon plain viands, taking care never to
exceed four or five glasses of the best Madeira; proceed for two hours
with studying the language, and, after taking a cup or two of tea, or of