entrée to follow the goose, but at this season of the year I am
trying to live up to the golden rule, and as at this point I should
vastly prefer a punch or a sorbet to anything else, I am going to
recommend that you be guided by my preference. You may take one quart
of lemon water ice to which has been added the whites of three eggs
beaten to a froth, a gill of kirsch and half a pint of champagne, and
send to table in some of the pretty punch cups which formed one of
your Yule-tide gifts. You may also serve cigarettes at the same time,
and, my word for it, your guests at table assembled will have a keener
appetite for the next course than if you had sandwiched in some rich
entrée.

With about nine out of every ten suburbanites raising pigeons in these
days it is very easy to understand why the squabs in the market are of
such good quality and are sold at such a reasonable price. And under
these circumstances don't you think they will be excellent for the
next course if broiled to a turn and accompanied by a salad of chicory
or watercress?

After the squabs the sweets. Few housekeepers will think a Christmas
dinner complete without mince pies and plum-pudding, but I cannot
suggest a way in which to make them, for truth to tell, I never
prepared either, and I'm above offering you any recipes which I've not
tried, no matter how true they may be. Consult your cookery books if
you've not a favorite method of your own for preparing these aids to
indigestion, and select those that seem least harmful.

Of course, there will be upon the table till dessert is served celery,
olives stuffed or plain, salted almonds or pecans, etc. I know that
you know this, but had I neglected to mention it more than likely you
would have accused me of being ignorant of the necessity of having
these side dishes at a dinner.

After the sweets the biscuit, cheese and coffee, and if the cheese is
to be of a particularly rich flavor, such as Camembert, Roquefort, or
Brie, then by all means serve with it some of the little Bar-le-Duc
currants, both red and white.

Are you to have wine? Then make it sherry with the soup, champagne
with the goose, and the very best burgundy to be had to accompany the
squabs.

I fancy there is nothing more that I can suggest that will add to your
happiness or that of your guests, who will probably feel very
grateful to you for spreading for them a feast "delectable to eat and
to behold." For yourself, you will probably feel very grateful that
Christmas comes but once a year.

You shall not be put off with any side issue in these very last pages,
but shall have dished up for your critical examination a list that I
promise you shall be a hodge-podge, a mélange, or, if it please your
sense of the fitness of things better, a macédoine of the best edibles
the market affords.

Doubtless when you have been in Western cities you have dined many a
time and oft at those sky-high restaurants overlooking one of the
Great Lakes, and have had the waiter, with an air of honesty made
perfect by practice, point out to you the very spot where the
whitefish you were at the minute admiring had been pulled in scarcely
three hours before. If so, you know the delicious and unapproachable
flavor of the fish in their purest and best estate. And yet they reach
eastern markets in a remarkable state of freshness and are inexpensive
enough to warrant any one in trying them for a change from the kinds
that are more common here.

Baked Whitefish

Broiled over a hot fire and served with a simple sauce made of melted
butter, lemon juice and a sprinkling of cayenne they are good enough
to serve at any meal for anybody. But you can make a more elaborate
dish from them by going to work in this way: Scale a rather good-sized
fish, split it, remove the backbone, and then season the fish well
with salt and pepper, dip it in beaten egg, then in bread-crumbs,
again in beaten egg, and lay in a well buttered baking pan. Bake in a
hot oven till it is colored a good brown. Take it up on a hot dish,
set the baking pan having in it the hot butter on the top of the range
and cook in it for a minute or two half a pint of drained oysters;
arrange the oysters round the fish and pour a little melted butter
over all, with a garnishing of fried parsley. If you are having this
dish for luncheon, have with it some potato croquettes, but if it is
intended for dinner and a roast or rich entrée is to follow, then have
a dainty salad of crisp radishes with a handful of capers shaken over
them.

Boiled Cods' Tongues

And now is the time if ever that fresh cods' tongues should find
favor. They are inexpensive and in perfect condition, and by more than
one gourmet are considered an unrivalled delicacy. If this statement
persuades you to give them a trial, just a word as to preparing them:
Have three pints of water boiling in a saucepan, add to it two carrots
and half a dozen onions very finely chopped, a few sprigs of parsley
and two gills of vinegar. When the vegetables are nearly tender enough
put into the saucepan with them two pounds of cods' tongues. Let them
boil just once, then move back where they will simmer but not boil for
twenty minutes or so. Take up the tongues, drain, dress them on a hot
dish and keep hot while you prepare the sauce. For this drain the
vegetables and toss them about in a frying-pan in plenty of butter
till they show signs of browning a bit, then add to them some chopped
cucumber pickles and a few capers and pour round the tongues. Season
the sauce, of course, with salt and pepper, and if you are gifted with
rare discretion in the matter of spices use ever so little nutmeg in
it; just one or two turns of the grater will give you all you should
have. I intend to be very particular in my choice of readers and
hearers when I suggest the use of nutmeg in savory sauces, because
there are so many housekeepers as well as cooks who positively are not
to be trusted with a nutmeg in one hand and a grater in the other;
they will persist in going on the principle that if a little is good
more must be better, and then grate away for dear life.

Of course you know that smelts are in their prime, but is your sense
of smell keen enough to detect in that fish the likeness of its
fragrance to that of the violet or of the cucumber? Well, the
similarity is there if the fish be as fresh as it should, and if you
don't discover it you may add another to your list of misfortunes, for
they do say, those who know whereof they speak, that inability to
perceive this subtle scent indicates a correspondingly unappreciative
palate. And so much for my fish story.

Fried Partridge Breasts

Along with the many things for which we have cause for rejoicing about
this time of year there should certainly be reckoned the fact that
game of almost all kinds is more plentiful and less expensive than at
other seasons. And you know that under such favorable circumstances
as these I am wont to urge you to make experiments in preparing the
viand in question. Suppose, for instance, that the next time you are
to have partridges you pretend to forget that these birds are ever
roasted or broiled, and so set to work to serve them in this way: Have
four partridges, cut off the breasts, divide them in two and lay them
aside; boil the legs and livers of the birds in salted water till they
are quite tender--so tender, in fact, that they can be pressed through
a rather coarse sieve. Put this pulp into a saucepan with a gill of
the water used for boiling it, half a gill of sherry wine, a bit of
cayenne, an ounce of butter, and salt if it is needed. Let this get
hot, very hot, without boiling, and keep it hot while you cook the
breasts. These fry in butter and range in a circle on a dish with
alternate slices of bread also fried in butter, and in the centre pour
the sauce made from the legs and livers. To be sure, you can make the
sauce somewhat richer by adding to it chopped mushrooms or chopped
truffles or both.

Roasted Quails

Forget, also, for a time, your favorite ways of cooking quails in
order that you may pronounce judgment on this manner of preparing
them: Have half a dozen of them drawn and singed for roasting. Chop up
the livers, double the quantity of chicken liver and as much minced
fat salt pork as liver; add chopped parsley, salt, cayenne, three or
four drops of onion juice, a tablespoonful of very fine bread-crumbs,
and one beaten egg. Mix these ingredients all well together and fill
the quails with it; roast them in a rather moderate oven for twenty
minutes, basting occasionally with melted butter. Dress the quails on
a hot dish, squeeze a few drops of lemon juice into the pan in which
they were roasted, adding a little melted butter, and pour this sauce
over the birds.

Roasted Duck Stuffed with Celery

Or it may be that for yourself you prefer a roasted black duck, but
cannot gratify your preference because some members of the family will
insist upon calling such a bird "strong," when you know and speak of
the flavor only as being "gamey." Now, there's a way out of the
difficulty for all of you. Just stuff the birds as full as you can
with celery tops, tie thin slices of fat salt pork over their breasts
and roast them till they are quite tender and brown. You will find
the strong flavor entirely gone, while the gamey taste will be so
aided and abetted by the celery that your palate will receive a new
and altogether delightful sensation. Surround the ducks when serving
with a border prepared as follows: Brown some slices of bread in the
oven, and when of a good color and very dry, roll and pass through a
fine sieve, mix these crumbs with a little butter, season them with
salt and pepper and heat well in the oven before using. Serve with the
ducks also a hot apple sauce; make it as you always do and add to one
pint of sauce an ounce of butter.

With either of the ways suggested for cooking game you will want to
serve a salad, probably, and you can't do better than decide to have
one of escarole or of romaine with a simple French dressing. But there
is chicory, of course, and there is lettuce, and both of them in fine
condition, if you don't feel inclined to take my advice. And there are
cucumbers, from hothouses, and there are hothouse tomatoes, that are
expensive or the reverse, according to one's position on the
financial question. In fact, you can get almost any kind of vegetable
or fruit in the large markets to-day, and at all times; and if the
particular thing that you desire happens to be absent, just wait a few
minutes and your order will be filled by lightning express from some
part of the world.

_Index_

    SOUPS

                                                      PAGE
    Asparagus                                           92
    Bisque of clams                                     89
    Chicken consommé                                   220
    Consommé with asparagus                            197
    Purée of peas and spinach                           79
    Savory tomato                                       87
    Soup, velvet                                       177

    FISH

    Bluefish, Newport style                            169
    Cods' tongues, boiled                              227
    Fresh cod, baked                                     9
    Fresh cod, broiled                                   9
    Fresh cod, Delmonico style                           8
    Fresh cod, flaked, in tomato sauce                  37
    Halibut, baked, with Parmesan                      178
    Smelts, baked                                      167
    Smelts, broiled, Béarnaise sauce                   167
    Smelts, fried, with parsley                        168
    Trout, lake, boiled                                 50
    Whitefish, baked                                   226

    SMOKED OR SALT FISH

    Codfish with brown butter                           44
    Codfish with cream                                  43
    Cods' tongues, fried                                45
    Fillets of sole, casserole of                       51
    Finnan haddies with cream                           48
    Herring, fried                                      47
    Mackerel, boiled, horse-radish sauce                46
    Salmon, broiled                                     46

    SHELL FISH

    Clam cocktails                                      65
    Clams, West Island style                            94
    Clams and lobsters in shells                        95
    Lobster _à la_ Newberg                         38, 130
    Lobster croquettes                                 131
    Lobster, devilled                                  129
    Lobster patties                                    134
    Lobster tartlets                                   130
    Lobster toast                                      129
    Lobster tails stuffed                              131
    Oysters, baked                                     143
    Oysters, baked with cheese                         220
    Oyster cocktails                                   142
    Oysters, creamed                                    37
    Oysters, celery roast                              146
    Oysters, devilled and fried                        145
    Oysters, pickled                                   147
    Oyster pie                                         146
    Oyster salad                                        17
    Oyster sandwiches                                  190
    Oyster soufflée                                     52
    Oysters, stewed, with cream                        144
    Oysters, stuffed and fried                         145
    Scallops in shells                                 210

    BEEF, MUTTON, LAMB, PORK, ETC.

    Beef tongue                                        112
    Cutlets, jellied                                   140
    Ham, roasted                                         5
    Ham toast                                          102
    Kidneys, en brochette                               25
    Kidneys, fried, with mushrooms                      26
    Kidneys, minced                                     27
    Lamb croquettes                                     23
    Lamb cutlets with mushrooms                        135
    Lamb, roasted, with caper sauce                     20
    Lamb, roasted, with macaroni                        21
    Lamb, roasted, with onion purée                     21
    Lamb steak                                          66
    Lamb steak, with Béarnaise sauce                    67
    Lamb slices, broiled                                22
    Lamb slices, fried with chutney                     22
    Lamb slices, stewed with onions and mushrooms       22
    Lamb slices in chafing dish                         23
    Liver, calf's, fried                                28
    Pigs' feet, broiled                                  6
    Pork chops, broiled, sauce piquante                  3
    Pork, roasted, onion sauce                           4
    Sausages                                             2
    Veal cutlets, broiled                               83

    POULTRY, GAME, ETC.

    Chicken cream (cold)                           42, 138
    Chicken cream with tomato (cold)                   139
    Chicken, fried, Italian style                      159
    Chicken, fried with tomatoes                       160
    Chicken, fried, cream sauce                        100
    Chicken hash, baked                                 84
    Chicken livers, olive sauce                         39
    Chicken liver patties                              211
    Doe birds, roasted                                 111
    Duck, broiled canvas-back                          214
    Duck, canvas-back, roasted, port wine sauce        215
    Duck, fillets, with orange sauce                   207
    Ducks, roasted, with orange sauce                  160
    Ducks, roasted, with olives                        179
    Duck, stuffed with celery tops, roasted            230
    Duck, mallard, roasted, with fried celery          216
    Game tarts                                         111
    Goose pie                                          205
    Goose, roasted, potato stuffing                    221
    Goose, stewed                                      206
    Grouse pie                                         119
    Grouse, roasted                                    176
    Partridge breasts, fried                           229
    Partridge salmi (cold)                             210
    Plover, roasted                                    120
    Quail, roasted                                176, 230
    Teal (ducks), roasted                              211
    Turkey in aspic                                    111
    Turkey legs, broiled                               203
    Turkey legs, devilled and broiled                  203
    Turkey, minced                                     205
    Turkey, minced with mushrooms                      204

    VEGETABLES

    Asparagus, baked                                    77
    Asparagus tops with cheese                          90
    Asparagus tops with cream                           76
    Asparagus with savory sauce                         77
    Cucumbers, fried                                    96
    Cucumbers, stuffed and baked                        95
    Mushroom cannelons                                 198
    Oyster plant with cream                            118
    Peas with mint                                      92
    Potato soufflée                                     67
    Potato omelet                                      204
    Squash, baked                                      206
    String beans with butter                           199
    Tomatoes, broiled, devilled                        161
    Tomatoes, broiled, on toast                        162
    Tomatoes with celery and mayonnaise                212
    Turnips with butter sauce                          222

    SALADS

    Apple and celery                                   162
    Asparagus                                       77, 88
    Brussels sprouts                                    16
    Cheese                                             193
    Duck                                               207
    Fish                                               208
    Herring                                             84
    Lamb                                                24
    Lettuce with chives                                 91
    Nut                                                 18
    Oyster                                              17
    Red cabbage                                         14
    Sardine                                             16
    Spanish onion                                       15

    SWEET SALADS

    Fruit--general                                     107
    Fruit--summer                                      201
    Fruit--winter                                       18
    Pear                                               106
    Pear salad, No. 2                                  164
    Pineapple                                          106
    Strawberry                                         105

    EGG DISHES

    Baked                                               57
    Curdled in cream                                    55
    Eggs, curried                                       41
    Eggs, snow                                          62
    Epicurean style                                     56
    In tomato purée                                     58
    Omelet Célestine                                    61
    Omelet jelly                                        60
    Omelet, Spanish                                     59
    Omelet strawberries                                 60
    Omelet with caviare                                 58
    Omelet with chicken liver                           59
    Omelette soufflée                                   62
    Scrambled with truffles                             58
    Toast with Parmesan                                 57

    DESSERTS

    Almond pudding                                      53
    Charlotte, apricot                                  81
    Charlotte, macaroon                                180
    Cream, banana                                      108
    Cream, coffee glacée                                53
    Cream, gooseberry                                  102
    Cream, peach                                       108
    Cream, raspberry                                   108
    Macaroon custard                                   212
    Milk sherbet                                       123
    Musk melon jelly                                   114
    Omelet Célestine                                    61
    Omelet with jelly                                   60
    Omelet with strawberries                            60
    Omelette soufflée                                   62
    Raspberries, crystallized                          107
    Strawberries, frozen                                91
    Strawberry fritters                                103
    Strawberry jelly                                   105
    Strawberry pudding                                 104
    Strawberry sherbet                                 124
    Watermelon, iced                                    99

    ICE CREAMS AND ICES

    Champagne sherbet                                  125
    Champagne sherbet with strawberries                126
    Claret sherbet                                     126
    Coffee ice cream                                   123
    Currant sherbet                                    124
    Grape fruit sherbet                                201
    Kirsch sherbet                                     127
    Peach sherbet                                      124
    Pineapple sherbet                                  124
    Rhubarb sherbet                                     81
    Victoria sorbet                                    223
    Wine ice cream                                     137

    FRUITS, COOKED

    Apple croquettes                                     3
    Apple salad                                        156
    Apple sauce with orange                            163
    Apple sauce with whipped cream                     163
    Apples, fried                                      155
    Apples in vanilla syrup                            155
    Grape jam                                          149
    Peach cream                                        165
    Pears in vanilla syrup                             157
    Pears stewed in claret                             158
    Pears, stuffed                                     164
    Pears, stuffed stewed                              158
    Peaches, brandied                                  154
    Peaches, stuffed                                   165
    Plums, brandied                                    153
    Plum jam                                           152
    Quince jelly                                       151
    Quince marmalade                                   150

    DRINKS

    Claret, hot, egg-nog                               182
    Claret, hot, spiced                                182
    Claret tipple                                      182
    Cider cup                                          186
    Cider egg-nog                                      185
    Cider punch                                        184
    Ginger lemonade                                    186
    Moss rose                                          115
    Orange punch                                       184
    Quince liqueur                                     185
    Rhine wine cup                                     186
    Rhine wine seltzer                                 186
    Soda cocktail                                      187
    Sherry egg-nog, hot                                183
    Various cups                                       186

    MISCELLANEOUS

    Butters, savory                                    191
    Cider sauce                                          5
    Croquettes, macaroni                                27
    Croquettes, sweet corn (canned)                     11
    Golden buck                                         41
    Grape fruit with rum                               201
    Hash, sublimated                                    12
    Jelly, savory                                      193
    Johnny cake, Rhode Island style                     13
    Macaroni, timbales                                  51
    Macaroni with cheese                               199
    Mayonnaise, with horse-radish                       79
    Olives with caviare                                 78
    Partridge, sauce for                               175
    Rice muffins                                        12
    Sandwiches, caviare                                190
    Sandwiches, crust                                  191
    Sandwiches, fish                                   191
    Sandwiches, French                                 113
    Sandwiches, game                                   191
    Sandwiches, sweet                                  192
    Sardine canapé                                     219
    Sauce duchesse                                      80
    Sauce for calf's liver                              29
    Sauce, onion                                        80
    Toast, anchovy                                      69
    Toast for game                                     174
    Toast, sardine                                      69
    Tunny fish                                          70
    Welsh rabbit                                        40

    INVALID COOKERY

    Barley, purée of                                    31
    Beef tea                                            32
    Chicken broth with oatmeal                          31
    Chicken custard                                     33
    Chicken, sabayon of                                 32
    Cream soup                                          32
    Invalid's chop                                      35
    Rice, steamed                                       35
    Tapioca jelly                                       33
    Violet jelly                                        34

_Works on Cookery_

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It is a thoroughly practical work and will be cordially welcomed in
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Wholesome dishes that will please capricious appetites. Some of these
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Transcriber's Note

The original book used sidenotes to indicate recipe names. In this
version of the e-book, the transcriber has rendered the recipe names
as sub-headings for ease of reading.

The table of contents has been added by the transcriber for the
convenience of the reader.

Minor punctuation errors have been repaired.

Several terms appear variously with a hyphen or a space--bread-crumbs
and bread crumbs, chafing-dish and chafing dish, egg-plant and egg
plant, horse-radish and horse radish, etc. These are preserved as
printed. Hyphenation has otherwise been made consistent.

The author uses some variant spelling, for example, curaçoa or bran
new. There are also some inconsistencies--omelet and omelette, soufflé
and soufflée, piquant and piquante. These are all preserved as
printed.

There are some small inconsistencies between recipe names in the main
body of the book and those in the index. These are all preserved as
printed.

On page 29, the word chevril (a type of horse tea) occurred. As it
appeared in a paragraph referencing several herbs as seasoning, it has
been amended to chervil, on the assumption that that was actually the
intended word.

On page 216 is the phrase "tender, smallest stocks of celery." This
may be an error for "stalks of celery," or it could be that the
intention was to refer to a store of celery or the availability of
it. As there is no way to sure, it is preserved as printed.