wood floating about. Only the upper jaw moves, which they raise almost
perpendicular, so as to form a right angle with the lower one. In the
fore-part of the upper jaw, on each side, just under the nostrils, are
two very large, thick, strong teeth or tusks, not very sharp, but
rather the shape of a cone: these are as white as the finest polished
ivory, and are not covered by any skin or lips, and always in sight,
which gives the creature a frightful appearance: in the lower jaw are
holes opposite to these teeth, to receive them: when they clap their
jaws together it causes a surprising noise, like that which is made by
forcing a heavy plank with violence upon the ground, and may be heard
at a great distance.

But what is yet more surprising to a stranger, is the incredible loud
and terrifying roar, which they are capable of making, especially in
the spring season, their breeding time. It most resembles very heavy
distant thunder, not only shaking the air and waters, but causing the
earth to tremble; and when hundreds and thousands are roaring at the
same time, you can scarcely be persuaded, but that the whole globe is
violently and dangerously agitated.

An old champion, who is perhaps absolute sovereign of a little lake or
lagoon (when fifty less than himself are obliged to content themselves
with swelling and roaring in little coves round about) darts forth from
the reedy coverts all at once, on the surface of the waters, in a right
line; at first seemingly as rapid as lightning, but gradually more
slowly until he arrives at the centre of the lake, when he stops. He
now swells himself by drawing in wind and water through his mouth,
which causes a loud sonorous rattling in the throat for near a minute,
but it is immediately forced out again through his mouth and nostrils,
with a loud noise, brandishing his tail in the air, and the vapour
ascending from his nostrils like smoke. At other times, when swolen to
an extent ready to burst, his head and tail lifted up, he spins or
twirls round on the surface of the water. He acts his part like an
Indian chief when rehearsing his feats of war; and then retiring, the
exhibition is continued by others who dare to step forth, and strive to
excel each other, to gain the attention of the favourite female.

Having gratified my curiosity at this general breeding place and
nursery of crocodiles, I continued my voyage up the river without being
greatly disturbed by them. In my way I observed islets or floating
fields of the bright green Pistia, decorated with other amphibious
plants, as Senecio Jacobea, Persicaria amphibia, Coreopsis bidens,
Hydrocotyle fluitans, and many others of less note.

The swamps on the banks and island of the river are generally three or
four feet above the surface of the water, and very level; the timber
large and growing thinly, more so than what is observed to be in the
swamps below Lake George; the black rich earth is covered with
moderately tall, and very succulent tender grass, which when chewed is
sweet and agreeable to the taste, somewhat like young sugarcane: it is
a jointed decumbent grass, sending out radiculæ at the joints into the
earth, and so spreads itself, by creeping over its surface.

The large timber trees, which possess the low lands, are Acer rubrum,
Ac. negundo, Ac. glaucum, Ulmus sylvatica, Fraxinus excelsior, Frax.
aquatica, Ulmus suberifer, Gleditsia monosperma, Gledit. triacanthus,
Diospyros Virginica, Nyssa aquatica, Nyssa sylvatica, Juglans cinerea,
Quercus dentata, Quercus phillos, Hopea tinctoria, Corypha palma, Morus
rubra, and many more. The palm grows on the edges of the banks, where
they are raised higher than the adjacent level ground, by the
accumulation of sand, river-shells, &c. I passed along several miles by
those rich swamps: the channels of the river which encircle the several
fertile islands, I had passed, now uniting, formed one deep channel
near three hundred yards over. The banks of the river on each side
began to rise, and present shelly bluffs, adorned by beautiful Orange
groves, Laurels and Live Oaks. And now appeared in sight a tree that
claimed my whole attention: it was the Carica papaya, both male and
female, which were in flower; and the latter both in flower and fruit,
some of which were ripe, as large, and of the form of a pear, and of a
most charming appearance.

This admirable tree is certainly the most beautiful of any vegetable
production I know of; the towering Laurel Magnolia, and exalted Palm,
indeed exceed it in grandeur and magnificence, but not in elegance,
delicacy and gracefulness. It rises erect to the height of fifteen or
twenty feet, with a perfectly straight tapering stem, which is smooth
and polished, of a bright ash colour, resembling leaf silver, curiously
inscribed with the footsteps of the fallen leaves; and these vestiges
are placed in a very regular uniform imbricated order, which has a fine
effect, as if the little column were elegantly carved all over. Its
perfectly spherical top, is formed of very large lobe-sinuate leaves,
supported on very long footstalks; the lower leaves are the largest as
well as their petioles the longest, and make a graceful sweep or
flourish, like the long _ſ_, or the branches of a sconce candlestick.
The ripe and green fruit are placed round about the stem or trunk, from
the lowermost leaves, where the ripe fruit are, and upwards almost to
the top; the heart or inmost pithy part of the trunk is in a manner
hollow, or at best consists of very thin porous medullæ or membranes.
The tree very seldom branches or divides into limbs, I believe never
unless the top is by accident broke off when very young: I saw one
which had two tops or heads, the stem of which divided near the earth.
It is always green, ornamented at the same time with flowers and fruit,
which like figs come out singly from the trunk or stem.

After resting and refreshing myself in these delightful shades, I left
them with reluctance. Embarking again after the fervid heat of the
meridian sun were abated, for some time I passed by broken ridges of
shelly high land, covered with groves of Live Oak, Palm, Olea
Americana, and Orange trees; frequently observing floating islets and
green fields of the Pistia near the shores of the river and lagoons.

Here is in this river, and in the waters all over Florida, a very
curious and handsome birds, the people call them Snake Birds; I think I
have seen paintings of them on the Chinese screens and other India
pictures: they seeem to be a species of cormorant or loon (Colymbus
cauda elongata), but far more beautiful and delicately formed than any
other species that I have ever seen. The head and neck of this bird are
extremely small and slender, the latter very long indeed, almost out of
all proportion; the bill long, straight and slender, tapering from its
ball to a sharp point; all the upper side, the abdomen and thighs, are
as black and glossy as a raven’s, covered with feathers so firm and
elastic, that they in some degree resemble fish-scales; the breast and
upper part of the belly are covered with feathers of a cream colour;
the tail is very long, of a deep black, and tipped with a silvery
white, and when spread, represent an unfurled fan. They delight to sit
in little peaceable communities, on the dry limbs of trees, hanging
over the still waters, with their wings and tails expanded, I suppose
to cool and air themselves, when at the same time they behold their
images in the watery mirror. At such times, when we approach them, they
drop off the limbs into the water as if dead, and for a minute or two
are not to be seen; when on a sudden, at a vast distance, their long
slender head and neck only appear, and have very much the appearance of
a snake, and no other part of them are to be seen when swimming in the
water, except sometimes the tip end of their tail. In the heat of the
day they are seen in great numbers, sailing very high in the air, over
lakes and rivers.

I doubt not but if this bird had been an inhabitant of the Tiber in
Ovid’s days, it would have furnished him with a subject for some
beautiful and entertaining metamorphoses. I believe it feeds entirely
on fish, for its flesh smells and tastes intolerably strong of it; it
is scarcely to be eaten unless constrained by insufferable hunger.

I had now swamps and marshes on both sides of me; and evening coming on
apace, I began to look out for high land to encamp on; but the
extensive marshes seemed to have no bounds, and it was almost dark when
I found a tolerable suitable place, and at last was constrained to take
up with a narrow strip of high shelly bank, on the west side. Great
numbers of crocodiles were in sight on both shores. I ran my bark on
shore at a perpendicular bank four or five feet above the water, just
by the roots and under the spreading limbs of a great Live Oak: this
appeared to have been an ancient camping place by Indians and strolling
adventurers, from ash heaps and old rotten fire-brands and chunks,
scattered about on the surface of the ground; but was now evidently the
harbour and landing-place of some sovereign alligator: there led up
from it a deep beaten path or road, and was a convenient ascent.

I did not approve of my intended habitation from these circumstances;
and no sooner had I landed and moored my canoe to the roots of the
tree, than I saw a huge crocodile rising up from the bottom close by
me, who, when he perceived that I saw him, plunged down again under my
vessel. This determined me to be on my guard, and in time to provide
against a troublesome night. I took out of my boat every moveable,
which I carried upon the bank; then chose my lodging close to my canoe,
under the spreading Oak, as hereabouts only, the ground was open and
clear of high grass and bushes, and consequently I had some room to
stir and look round about. I then proceeded to collect firewood, which
I found difficult to procure. Here were standing a few Orange trees. As
for provisions, I had saved one or two barbecued trout, the remains of
my last evening’s collection, in tolerable good order, though the
sultry heats of the day had injured them; yet by stewing them up afresh
with the lively juice of Oranges, they served well enough for my
supper, as I had by this time but little relish or appetite for my
victuals; for constant watching at night against the attacks of
alligators, stinging of musquitoes and sultry heats of the day,
together with the fatigues of working my bark, had almost deprived me
of every desire but that of ending my troubles as speedy as possible. I
had the good fortune to collect together a sufficiency of dry sticks to
keep up a light and smoke, which I laid by me, and then spread my skins
and blankets upon the ground, kindled up a little fire, and supped
before it was quite dark. The evening was however extremely pleasant; a
brisk cool breeze sprang up, and the skies were perfectly serene, the
stars twinkling with uncommon briliancy. I stretched myself along
before my fire; having the river, my little harbour, and the stern of
my vessel in view; and now through fatigue and weariness I fell asleep.
But this happy temporary release from cares and troubles I enjoyed but
a few moments, when I was awakened and greatly surprised, by the
terrifying screams of Owls in the deep swamps around me; and what
increased my extreme misery was the difficulty of geting quite awake,
and yet hearing at the same time such screaming and shouting, which
increased and spread every way for miles around, in dreadful peals
vibrating through the dark extensive forests, meadows, and lakes. I
could not after this surprise recover the former peaceable state and
tranquillity of mind and repose, during the long night; and I believe
it was happy for me that I was awakened, for at that moment the
crocodile was dashing my canoe against roots roots of the tree,
endeavouring to get into her for the fish, which I however prevented.
Another time in the night I believe I narrowly escaped being dragged
into the river by him; for when again through excessive fatigue I had
fallen asleep, but was again awakened by the screaming owl, I found the
monster on the top of the bank, his head towards me, not above two
yards distant; when starting up and seizing my fusee well loaded, which
I always kept under my head in the night time, he drew back and plunged
into the water. After this, I roused up my fire, and kept a light
during the remaining part of the night, being determined not to be
caught napping so again: indeed the musquitoes alone would have been
abundantly sufficient to keep any creature awake that possessed their
perfect senses; but I was overcome and stupified with incessant
watching and labour. As soon as I discovered the first signs of
day-light, I arose, got all my effects and implements on board, and set
sail, proceeding upwards, hoping to give the musquitoes the slip, who
were now, by the cool morning dews and breezes, driven to their shelter
and hiding places. I was mistaken however in these conjectures, for
great numbers of them, which had concealed themselves in my boat, as
soon as the sun arose, began to revive, and sting me on my legs, which
obliged me to land in order to get bushes to beat them out of their
quarters.

It is very pleasing to observe the banks of the river, ornamented with
hanging garlands, composed of varieties of climbing vegetables, both
shrubs and plants, forming perpendicular green walls, with projecting
jambs, pilasters and deep apartments, twenty or thirty feet high, and
completely covered, with Glycine frutescens, Glyc. apios, Vitis
labrusca, Vitis vulpina, Rajana, Hedera quinquefolia, Hedera arborea,
Eupatorium scandens, Bignonia crucigera, and various species of
Convolvulus, particularly an amazing tall climber of this genus, or
perhaps an Ipomea. This has a very large white flower, as big as a
small funnel; its tube is five or six inches in length, and not thicker
than a pipe stem; the leaves are also very large, oblong and cordated,
sometimes dentated or angled, near the insertion of the foot-stalk;
they are of a thin texture, and of a deep green colour. It is
exceedingly curious to behold the Wild Squash[19] climbing over the
lofty limbs of the trees; its yellow fruit, somewhat of the size and
figure of a large orange, pendant from the extremities of the limbs
over the water.

Towards noon, the sultry heats being intolerable, I put into shore, at
a middling high bank, five or six feet above the surface of the river.
This low sandy testaceous ridge along the river side was but narrow;
the surface is light, black, and exceedingly fertile, producing very
large venerable Live Oaks, Palms, and grand Magnolias, scatteringly
planted by nature. There being no underwood to prevent the play of the
breezes from the river, afforded a desirable retreat from the sun’s
heat. Immediately at the back of this narrow ridge, were deep wet
swamps, where stood some astonishingly tall and spreading Cypress
trees. And now being weary and drowsy, I was induced to indulge and
listen to the dictates of reason and invitations to repose; which
consenting to, after securing my boat and reconnoitring the ground, I
spread my blanket under the Oaks near my boat, on which I extended
myself, where, falling to sleep, I instantaneously passed away the
sultry hours of noon. What a blissful tranquil repose! Undisturbed I
awoke, refreshed and strengthened; I cheerfully stepped on board again,
and continued to ascend the river. The afternoon being cool and
pleasant, and the trees very lofty on the higher western banks of the
river, by keeping near that shore I passed under agreeable shades the
remaining part of the day. During almost all this day’s voyage, the
banks of the river on both shores were middling high, perpendicular,
and washed by the brisk current: the shores were not lined with the
green lawns of floating aquatics, and consequently not very commodious
resorts or harbours for crocodiles; I therefore was not disturbed by
them, and saw but few, but those were very large. I however did not
like to lodge on those narrow ridges, invested by such dreary swamps;
and evening approaching, I began to be anxious for high land for a
camping place. It was quite dark before I came up to a bluff, which I
had in view a long time, over a very extensive point of meadows. I
landed however at last, in the best manner I could, at a magnificent
forest of Orange groves, Oaks, and Palms. I here, with little labour or
difficulty, soon collected a sufficient quantity of dry wood: there was
a pleasant vista of grass betwixt the grove and the edge of the river
bank, which afforded a very convenient, open, airy encamping place,
under the protection of some spreading Oaks.

This was a high perpendicular bluff, fronting more than one hundred
yards on the river, the earth black, loose, and fertile: it is a
composition of river-shells, sand, &c. At the back of it from the
river, were open Pine forests and savannas. I met with a circumstance
here, that, with some, may be reckoned worthy of mentioning, since it
regards the monuments of the ancients. As I have already observed, when
I landed it was quite dark; and in collecting wood for my fire,
stroling in the dark about the groves, I found the surface of the
ground very uneven, by means of little mounts and ridges. In the
morning I found I had taken up my lodging on the border of an ancient
burying-ground, containing sepulchres or tumuli of the Yamasees, who
were here slain by the Creeks in the last decisive battle, the Creeks
having driven them into this point, between the doubling of the river,
where few of them escaped the fury of the conquerors. These graves
occupied the whole grove, consisting of two or three acres of ground:
there were near thirty of these cemeteries of the dead, nearly of an
equal size and form, being oblong, twenty feet in length, ten or twelve
feet in width and three or four feet high, now overgrown with Orange
trees, Live Oaks, Laurel Magnolias, Red bays and other trees and
shrubs, composing dark and solemn shades.

I here, for the first time since I left the trading house, enjoyed a
night of peaceful repose. I arose greatly refreshed and in good
spirits, stepped on board my bark, and continued my voyage. After
doubling the point, I passed by swamps and meadows on each side of me.
The river here is something more contracted within perpendicular banks;
the land of an excellent quality, fertile, and producing prodigiously
large timber and luxuriant herbage.

The air continued sultry, and scarcely enough wind to flutter the
leaves on the trees. The eastern coast of the river now opens, and
presents to view ample plains, consisting of grassy marshes and green
meadows, and affords a prospect almost unlimited, and extremely
pleasing. The opposite shore exhibits a sublime contrast; a high bluff
bearing magnificent forests of grand magnolia, glorious palms, fruitful
Orange groves, Live Oaks, Bays and other trees. This grand elevation
continues four or five hundred yards, discribing a gentle curve on the
river, ornamented by a sublime grove of Palms, consisting of many
hundreds of trees together; they entirely shade the ground under them.
Above and below the bluff, the grounds gradually descend to the common
level swamps on the river: at the back of this eminence open to view
expansive green meadows or savannas, in which are to be seen glittering
ponds of water, surrounded at a great distance by high open Pine
forests and hommocks, and islets of Oaks and Bays projecting into the
savannas. After ranging about these solitary groves and peaceful
shades, I re-embarked and continued some miles up the river, between
elevated banks of the swamps or low lands, when on the east shore in a
capacious cove or winding of the river, were pleasing fields of Pistia,
and in the bottom of this cove opened to view a large creek or branch
of the river, which I knew to be the entrance to a beautiful lake, on
the banks of which was the farm I was going to visit, and which I
designed should be the last extent of my voyage up the river.

About noon the weather became extremely sultry, not a breath of wind
stirring, hazy or cloudy, with very heavy distant thunder, which was
answered by the crocodiles, sure presage of a storm!

Soon after ascending this branch of the river, on the right hand
presents itself to view a delightful little bluff, consisting chiefly
of shells, and covered with a dark grove of Red Cedar, Zanthoxylon and
Myrtle, I could not resist the temptation to stop here, although the
tremendous thunder all around the hemisphere alarmed me greatly, having
a large lake to cross. From this grove appears to view, an expansive
and pleasing prospect. The beauteous long lake in front, about North
East from me, its most distant east shores adorned with dark, high
forests of stately trees; North and South almost endless green plains
and meadows, embellished with islets and projecting promontories of
high, dark forests, where the pyramidal Magnolia grandiflora, Palma
elata and shady Oak conspicuously tower.

Being heretofore so closely invested, by high forests and deep swamps
of the great river, I was prevented from seeing the progress and
increase of the approaching tempest, the terrific appearance of which
now at once confounded me. How purple and fiery appeared the tumultuous
clouds, swiftly ascending or darting from the horizon upwards! they
seemed to oppose and dash against each other; the skies appeared
streaked with blood or purple flame overhead, the flaming lightning
streaming and darting about in every direction around, seemed to fill
the world with fire; whilst the heavy thunder kept the earth in a
constant tremor. I had yet some hopes of crossing the lake to the
plantation in sight. On the opposite shore of the creek before me, and
on the cape as we enter the lake, stood a large islet or grove of Oaks
and Palms. Here I intended to seek shelter, and abide till the fury of
the hurricane was overpast, if I found it too violent to permit me to
cross the lake. In consequence of this precipitate determination, I
stepped into my boat and pushed off. What a dreadful rushing and
roaring there was every where around me! and to my utter confusion and
astonishment, I could not find from what particular quarter its
strongest current or direction came, whereby I might have a proper
chance of taking measures of securing a harbour or running from it. The
high forests behind me bent to the blast; and the sturdy limbs of the
trees cracked. I had by this time got up a breast of the grove or
hommock: the hurricane close by, pursuing me, I found it dangerous and
imprudent in the highest degree to put in here, as the groves were
already torn up, and the spreading limbs of the ancient Live Oaks were
flying over my head, and carried about in the air as leaves and
stubble. I ran by and boldly entered the lake (being hurried in by a
strong current, which seemed a prodigy, the violent wind driving the
stream of the creek back again into the lake), and as soon as possible
took shelter under the high reedy bank of the lake, and made fast my
bark to the boughs of a low shrubby Hickory, that leaned over the
water. Such was the violence of the wind, that it raised the waters on
the opposite shores of the lake several feet perpendicular, and there
was a rapid flow of water from the creek into it, which was contrary to
its natural course. Such floods of rain fell during the space of half
or three quarters of an hour, that my boat was filled, and I expected
every moment when I should see her sink to the bottom of the lake; and
the violence of the wind kept the cable so constantly extended, that it
was beyond my ability to get to her. My box, which contained my books
of specimens and other collections, was floating about in her; and for
a great part of the time the rain came down with such rapidity, and
fell in such quantities, that every object was totally obscured,
excepting the continual streams or rivers of lightning, pouring from
the clouds. All seemed a frightful chaos. When the wind and rain
abated, I was overjoyed to see the face of nature again appear.

It took me an hour or more to clear the water out of my bark. I then
crossed the lake before a brisk and favourable breeze (it was about a
mile over), and landed safely at the plantation.

When I arrived, my friend was affrighted to see me, and immediately
enquired of me in what manner I came there; supposing it impossible
(until I had showed him my boat) that I could have arrived by water
through so tremendous a hurricane.

Indeed I saw plainly that they were greatly terrified, having suffered
almost irreparable damages from the violence of the storm. All the
buildings on the plantation, except his own dwelling-house, were laid
almost flat to the ground, or the logs and roof rent asunder and
twisted about; the mansion-house shook and reeled over their heads. He
had nearly one hundred acres of the Indigo plant almost ripe for the
first cutting, which was nearly ruined; and several acres of very
promising Sugar-cane, totally spoiled for the season. The great Live
Oaks which had been left standing about the fields, were torn to
pieces, their limbs lying scattered over the ground: and one very large
one which stood near his house torn down, which could not have been
done by the united strength of a thousand men. But what is incredible,
in the midst of this devastation and ruin, providentially no lives were
lost; although there were about sixty Negro slaves on the plantation,
and most of them in their huts when the storm came on, yet they escaped
with their lives, though several were badly wounded.

I continued here three days: indeed it took most of the time of my
abode with him, to dry my books and specimens of plants. But with
attention and care I saved the greatest number of them; though some
were naturally so delicate and fragile, that it was impossible to
recover them. Here is a vast body of land belonging to this estate; of
high ridges fit for the culture of Corn, Indigo, Cotton, Batatas, &c.
and of low swamps and marshes, which when properly drained and tilled,
would be suitable for Rice. These rich low grounds when drained and
ridged, are as productive as the natural high land, and vastly more
durable, especially for Sugar-cane, Corn and even Indigo; but this
branch of agriculture being more expensive, these rich lands are
neglected, and the upland only is under culture. The farm is situated
on the east shore of the beautiful Long Lake, which is above two miles
long, and near a mile broad. This lake communicates with the St. Juan,
by the little river which I ascended, which is about one mile and an
half in length, and thirty or forty yards wide. The river, as well as
the lake, abounds with fish and wild fowl of various kinds, and
incredible numbers, especially during the winter season, when the geese
and ducks arrive here from the North.

New Smyrna,[20] a pretty thriving town, is a colony of Creeks and
Minorquines, established by Mr. Turnbull, on the Mosquito river and
very near its mouth; it is about thirty miles over land from this farm.

My friend rode with me, about four miles distance from the house, to
show me a vast fountain of warm, or rather hot mineral water, which
issued from a high ridge or bank on the river, in a great cove or bay,
a few miles above the mouth of the creek which I ascended to the lake;
it boils up with great force, forming immediately a vast circular
bason, capacious enough for several shallops to ride in, and runs with
rapidity into the river three or four hundred yards distance. This
creek, which is formed instantly by this admirable fountain, is wide
and deep enough for a sloop to sail up into the bason. The water is
perfectly diaphanous, and here are continually a prodigious number and
variety of fish; they appear as plain as though lying on a table before
your eyes, although many feet deep in the water. This tepid water has a
most disagreeable taste, brassy and vitriolic, and very offensive to
the smell, much like bilge water, or the washings of a gun-barrel, and
is smelt at a great distance. A pale bluish or pearl coloured coagulum
covers every inanimate substance that lies in the water, as logs, limbs
of trees, &c. Alligators and gar were numerous in the bason, even at
the apertures where the ebullition emerges through the rocks; as also
many other tribes of fish. In the winter season several kinds of fish
and aquatic animals migrate to these warm fountains. The forbiding
taste and smell of these waters seems to be owing to vitriolic and
sulphureous fumes or vapours, and these being condensed, form this
coagulum, which represents flakes of pearly clouds in the clear
cerulean waters in the bason. A charming Orange grove, with Magnolias,
Oaks and Palms, half surrounded this vast fountain. A delightful stream
of cool salubrious water issues from the ridge, meandering along, and
entering the creek just below the bason. I returned in the evening, and
next day sat off again down the river.

My hospitable friend, after supplying me with necessaries, prevailed on
me to accept of the company and assistance of his purveyor, one day’s
voyage down the river, whom I was to set on shore at a certain bluff,
upwards of twenty miles below, but not above one third that distance by
land; he was to be out in the forests one day, on a hunt for turkeys.

The current of the river being here confined within its perpendicular
banks, ran briskly down: we cheerfully descended the grand river St.
Juan, enjoying enchanting prospects.

Before night we reached the destined port, at a spacious Orange grove.
Next morning we separated, and I proceeded down the river. The
prospects on either hand are now pleasing, and I view them at leisure,
and without toil or dread.

Induced by the beautiful appearance of the green meadows, which open to
the eastward, I determined not to pass this Elysium without a visit.
Behold the loud, sonorous, watchful savanna cranes (grus pratensis)
with musical clangor, in detached squadrons. They spread their light
elastic sail: at first they move from the earth heavy and slow; they
labour and beat the dense air; they form the line with wide extended
wings, tip to tip; they all rise and fall together as one bird; now
they mount aloft, gradually wheeling about, each squadron performs its
evolution, encircling the expansive plains, observing each one its own
orbit; then lowering sail, descend on the verge of some glittering
lake; whilst other squadrons, ascending aloft in spiral circles, bound
on interesting discoveries, wheel round and double the promontory, in
the silver regions of the clouded skies, where, far from the scope of
eye, they carefully observe the verdant meadows on the borders of the
East Lake; then contract their plumes and descend to the earth, where,
resting a while on some verdant eminence, near the flowery border of
the lake, they, with dignified, yet slow, respectful steps, approach
the kindred band, confer, and treat for habitation; the bounds an
precincts being settled, they confederate and take possession.

There is inhabiting the low shores and swamps of this river and the
lakes of Florida, as well as Georgia, a very curious bird[21], called
by an Indian name (Ephouskyca) which signifies in our language the
crying bird. I cannot determine what genus of European birds to join it
with. It is about the size of a large domestic hen: all the body, above
and beneath, is of a dark lead colour, every feather edged or tipped
with white, which makes the bird appear speckled on a near view; the
eye is large and placed high on the head, which is very prominent; the
bill or beak is five or six inches in length, arched or bent gradually
downwards, in that respect to be compared to one half of a bent bow, it
is large or thick near the base, compressed on each side, and flatted
at top and beneath, which makes it appear four square for more than
inch, where the nostrils are placed, from whence to their tips, both
mandibles are round, gradually lessening or tapering to their
extremities, which are thicker for about half an inch than immediately
above, by which the mandibles never fit quite close their whole length;
the upper mandible is a small matter longer than the under; the bill is
of a dusky green colour, more bright and yellowish about the base and
angles of the mouth; the tail is very short, and the middle feather the
longest; the others on each side shorten gradually, and are of the
colour of the rest of the bird, only somewhat darker; the two shortest
or outermost feathers are perfectly white, which the bird has a faculty
of flirting out on either side, as quick as a flash of lightning,
especially when he hears or sees any thing that disturbs him, uttering
at the same instant an extreme harsh and loud shriek; his neck is long
and slender, and his legs are also long and bare of feathers above the
knee, like those of the bittern, and are black or of a dark lead
colour.

There are two other species of this genus, which agree in almost every
particular with the above description, except in size and colour. The
first[22] of these I shall mention is a perfect white, except the prime
quill feathers, which are as black as those of a crow; the bill and
legs of a beautiful clear red, as also a space clear of feathers about
the eyes. The other species[23] is black on the upper side, the breast
and belly white, and the legs and beak as white as snow. Both these
species are about half the size of the crying bird. They fly in large
flocks or squadrons, evening and morning, to and from their feeding
place or roosts; both species are called Spanish curlews: these and the
crying bird feed chiefly on cray-fish, whose cells they probe, and with
their strong pinching bills drag them out: all the three species are
esteemed excellent food.

It is a pleasing sight at times of high winds and heavy thunder storms,
to observe the numerous squadrons of these Spanish curlews driving to
and fro, turning and tacking about, high up in the air, when by their
various evolutions in the different and opposite currents of the wind
high in the clouds, their silvery white plumage gleams and sparkles
like the brightest crystal, reflecting the sun-beams that dart upon
them between the dark clouds.

Since I have turned my observations upon the birds of this country, I
shall notice another very singular one, though already most curiously
and exactly figured by Catesby, which seems to be nearly allied to
those before mentioned; I mean the bird which he calls the wood
pelican.[24] This is a large bird, perhaps near three feet high when
standing erect. The bill is very long and strong, bending with a
moderate curve from the base to the tip; the upper mandible is the
largst, and receives the edges of the nether one into it its whole
length; the edges are very sharp and firm; the whole of a dark ash or
horn colour; the forehead round the base of the beak and sides of the
head is bare of feathers, and of a dark greenish colour, in which space
is placed the eyes, which are very large; the remainder of the head and
neck is of a nut brown colour; the back of a light bluish grey; upper
part of the wings, breast, and belly, almost white, with some slight
dashes of grey; the quill-feathers and tail, which are very short, are
of a dark slate colour, almost black; the legs, which are very long,
and bare of feathers a great length above the knees, are of a dark dull
greenish colour: it has a small bag or pouch under its throat: it feeds
on serpents, young alligators, frogs, and other reptiles.

This solitary bird does not associate in flocks, but is generally seen
alone; commonly near the banks of great rivers, in vast marshes or
meadows, especially such as are caused by inundations; and also in the
vast deserted rice plantations: he stands alone on the topmost limb of
tall dead Cypress trees, his neck contracted or drawn in upon his
shoulders, and beak resting like a long scythe upon his breast: in this
pensive posture and solitary situation, it looks extremely grave,
sorrowful and melancholy, as if in the deepest thought. They are never
seen on the salt sea coast, and yet are never found at a great distance
from it. I take this bird to be of a different genus from the tantalus,
and perhaps it approaches the nearest to the Egyptian ibis of any other
bird yet known.

There are two species of vultures[25] in these regions, I think not
mentioned in history: the first we shall describe is a beautiful bird,
near the size of a turkey buzzard[26], but his wings are much shorter,
and consequently he falls greatly below that admirable bird in sail. I
shall call this bird the painted vulture. The bill is long and straight
almost to the point, when it is hooked or bent suddenly down and sharp;
the head and neck bare of feathers nearly down to the stomach, when the
feathers begin to cover the skin, and soon become long and of a soft
texture, forming a ruff or tippet, in which the bird by contracting his
neck can hide that as well as his head; the bare skin on the neck
appears loose and wrinkled, and is of a deep bright yellow colour,
intermixed with coral red; the hinder part of the neck is nearly
covered with short, stiff hair; and the skin of this part of the neck
is of a dun-purple colour, gradually becoming red as it approaches the
yellow of the sides and fore part. The crown of the head is red; there
are lobed lappets of a reddish orange colour, which lie on the base of
the upper mandible. But what is singular, a large portion of the
stomach hangs down on the breast of the bird, in the likeness of a sack
or half wallet, and seems to be a duplicature of the craw, which is
naked and of a reddish flesh colour; this is partly concealed by the
feathers of the breast, unless when it is loaded with food (which is
commonly, I believe, roasted reptiles), and then it appears prominent.
The plumage of the bird is generally white or cream colour, except the
quill-feathers of the wings and two or three rows of the coverts, which
are of a beautiful dark brown; the tail, which is large and white, is
tipped with this dark brown or black; the legs and feet of a clear
white; the eye is encircled with a gold coloured iris; the pupil black.

The Creeks or Muscogulges construct their royal standard of the tail
feather of this bird, which is called by a name signifying the eagle’s
tail; this they carry with them when they go to battle, but then it is
painted with a zone of red within the brown tips; and in peaceable
negociations it is displayed new, clean, and white: this standard is
held most sacred by them on all occasions, and is constructed and
ornamented with great ingenuity. These birds seldom appear but when the
deserts are set on fire (which happens almost every day throughout the
year, in some part or other, by the Indians, for the purpose of rousing
the game, as also by the lightning:) when they are seen at a distance
soaring on the wing, gathering from every quarter, and gradually
approaching the burnt plains, where they alight upon the ground yet
smoking with hot embers: they gather up the roasted serpents, frogs,
and lizards; filling their sacks with them: at this time a person may
shoot them at pleasure, they not being willing to quit the feast, and
indeed seeming to brave all danger.

The other species may very properly be called the coped vulture, and is
by the inhabitants called the carrion crow. As to bulk or weight, he is
nearly equal to either of the others before-mentioned. His wings are
not long and sharp pointed, but broad and round at their extremities,
having a clumsy appearance; the tail is remarkably short, which he
spreads like a little fan, when on the wing. They have a heavy
laborious flight, flapping their wings, then sail a little and then
flap their wings again, and so on as if recovering themselves when
falling. The beak is very long and straight, until it makes a sudden
hook at the point, in the manner of the other vultures. The whole bird
is of a sable or mourning colour; the head and neck down to the breast
is bare of feathers, and the skin wrinkled; this unfeathered skin is of
a deep livid purple, appearing black and thinly set with short black
hair. He has a ruff or tippet of long soft feathers, like a collar
bearing on his breast, in which he can conceal his neck and head at
pleasure.

Having agreeably diverted away the intolerable heats of sultry noon in
fruitful fragrant groves, with renewed vigour I again resume my sylvan
pilgrimage. The afternoon and evening moderately warm, and exceeding
pleasant views from the river and its varied shores. I passed by Battle
lagoon and the bluff, without much opposition; but the crocodiles were
already assembling in the pass. Before night I came to, at a charming
Orange grove bluff, on the east side of the little lake, and after
fixing my camp on a high open situation, and collecting a plenty of dry
wood for fuel, I had time to get some fine trout for supper and
joyfully return to my camp.

What a most beautiful creature is this fish before me! gliding to and
fro, and figuring in the still clear waters, with his orient attendants
and associates: the yellow bream[27] or sun fish. It is about eight
inches in length, nearly of the shape of the trout, but rather larger
in proportion over the shoulders and breast; the mouth large, and the
branchiostega opens wide; the whole fish is of a pale gold (or
burnished brass) colour, darker on the back and upper sides; the scales
are of a proportionable size, regularly placed, and every where
variably powdered with red, russet, silver, blue, and green specks, so
laid on the scales as to appear like real dust or opaque bodies, each
apparent particle being so projected by light and shade, and the
various attitudes of the fish, as to deceive the sight; for in reality
nothing can be of a more plain and polished surface than the scales and
whole body of the fish. The fins are of an orange colour; and, like all
the species of the bream, the ultimate angle of the branchiostega
terminates by a little spatula, the extreme end of which represents a
crescent of the finest ultramarine blue, encircled with silver and
velvet black, like the eye in the feathers of a peacock’s train. He is
a fish of prodigious strength and activity in the water; a warrior in a
gilded coat of mail, and gives no rest or quarters to small fish, which
he preys upon. They are delicious food and in great abundance.

The Orange grove, is but narrow, betwixt the the river banks and
ancient Indian fields, where there are evident traces of the
habitations of the ancients, surrounded whith groves of Live Oak,
Laurel Magnolia, Zanthoxylon, Liquidambar, and others.

How harmonious and soothing is this native sylvan music now at still
evening! inexpressibly tender are the responsive cooings of the
innocent dove, in the fragrant Zanthoxylon groves, and the variable and
tuneful warblings of the nonpareil, with the more sprightly and
elevated strains of the blue linnet and golden icterus: this is indeed
harmony, even amidst the incessant croaking of the frogs: the shades of
silent night are made more cheerful, with the shrill voice of the
whip-poor-will[28] and active mock-bird.

My situation high and airy: a brisk and cool breeze steadily and
incessantly passing over the clear waters of the lake, and fluttering
over me through the srrounding groves, wings its way to the moon-light
savannas, while I repose on my sweet and healthy couch of the soft
Tillandsia usnea-adscites, and the latter gloomy and still hours of
night pass rapidly away as it were in a moment; I arose, strengthened
and cheerful, in the morning. Having some repairs to make in the tackle
of my vessel, I paid my first attention to them; which being
accomplished, my curiosity prompted me to penetrate the grove and view
the illumined plains.

[Illustration: Ixia Cœlestina]

What a beautiful display of vegetation is here before me! seemingly
unlimited in extent and variety; how the dew-drops twinkle and play
upon the sight, trembling on the tips of the lucid, green savanna,
sparkling as the gem that flames on the turban of the eastern prince.
See the pearly tears rolling off the buds of the expanding
Granadilla[29]; behold the azure fields of cerulean Ixia! what can
equal the rich golden flowers of the Canna lutea, which ornament the
banks of yon serpentine rivulet, meandering over the meadows; the
almost endless varieties of the gay Phlox, that enamel the swelling
green banks, associated with the purple Verbena corymbosa, Viola,
pearly Gnaphalium, and silvery Perdicium? How fantastical looks the
libertine Clitoria, mantling the shrubs, on the vistas skirting the
groves! My morning excursion finished, I returned to my camp,
breakfasted, then went on board my boat, and gently descended the noble
river, and passed by several openings of extensive plains and meadows,
environing the East Lake, charming beyond compare. At evening I came to
at a good harbour, under the high banks of the river, and rested during
the night amidst the fragrant groves, exposed to the constant breezes
from the river: here I made ample collections of specimens and growing
roots of curious vegetables, which kept me fully employed the greatest
part of the day; and in the evening arrived at a charming spot on the
East bank, which I had marked on my ascent up the river, where I made
some addition to my collections; and the next day I employed myself in
the same manner, putting into shore frequently, at convenient places,
which I had noticed; and in the evening arrived again at the upper
store, where I had the pleasure of finding my old friend, the trader,
in good health and cheerful, and his affairs in prosperous way. There
were also a small party of Indians here, who had lately arrived with
their hunts to purchase goods. I continued a few days at this post,
searching its environs for curious vegetable productions, collecting
seeds and planting growing roots in boxes, to be transported to the
lower trading house.

Now, having procured necessaries to accommodate me on my voyage down to
the lower store, I bid adieu to my old friend and benefactor, Mr. Job
Wiggens, embarked alone on board my little fortunate vessel, and set
sail. I chose to follow the easternmost channel of the river to the
Great Lake, because it ran by high banks and bluffs of the eastern main
the greatest part of the distance, which afforded me an opportunity of
observing a far greater variety of natural subjects, than if I had
taken the western or middle channel, which flowed through swamps and
marshes.

At evening I arrived at Cedar Point, my former safe and pleasant
harbour, at the east cape of the Great Lake, where I had noticed some
curious shrubs and plants; here I rested, and on the smooth and gentle
current launch again into the little ocean of Lake George, meaning now,
on my return, to coast his western shores in search of new beauties in
the bounteous kingdom of Flora.

I was however induced to deviate a little from my intended course, and
touch at the inchanting little Isle of Palms. This delightful spot,
planted by nature, is almost an entire grove of Palms, with a few
pyramidal Magnolias, Live Oaks, golden Orange, and the animating
Zanthoxylon. What a beautiful retreat is here! blessed unviolated spot
of earth, rising from the limpid waters of the lake: its fragrant
groves and blooming lawns invested and protected by encircling ranks of
the Yucca gloriosa. A fascinating atmosphere surrounds this blissful
garden; the balmy Lantana, ambrosial Citra, perfumed Crinum, perspiring
their mingled odours, wafted through Zanthoxylon groves. I at last
broke away from the enchanting spot, and stepped on board my boat,
hoisted sail, and soon approached the coast of the main, at the cool
eve of day: then traversing a capacious semicircular cove of the lake,
verged by low, extensive grassy meadows, I at length by dusk made a
safe harbour, in a little lagoon, on the sea shore or strand of a bold
sandy point, which descended from the surf of the lake. This was a
clean sandy beach, hard and firm by the beating surf, when the wind
sets from the east coast. I drew up my light vessel on the sloping
shore, that she might be safe from the beating waves in case of a
sudden storm of wind in the night. A few yards back the land was a
little elevated, and overgrown with thickets of shrubs and low trees,
consisting chiefly of Zanthoxylon, Olea Americana, Rhamnus frangula,
Sideroxylon, Morus, Ptelea, Halesia, Querci, Myrica cerifera and
others. These groves were but low, yet sufficiently high to shelter me
from the chilling dews; and being but a few yards distance from my
vessel, here I fixed my encampment. A brisk wind arising from the lake,
drove away the clouds of mosquitoes into the thickets. I now, with
difficulty and industry, collected a sufficiency of dry wood to keep up
a light during the night, and to roast some trout which I had caught
when descending the river: their heads I stewed in the juice of
Oranges, which, with boiled rice, afforded me a wholesome and delicious
supper: I hung the remainder of my broiled fish on the snags of some
shrubs over my head. I at last, after reconnoitring my habitation,
returned, spread abroad my skins and blanket upon the clean sands by my
fire-side, and betook myself to repose.

How glorious the powerful sun, minister of the Most High, in the rule
and government of this earth, leaves our hemisphere, retiring from our
sight beyond the western forests! I behold with gratitude his departing
smiles, tinging the fleecy roseate clouds, now riding far away on the
eastern horizon; behold they vanish from sight in the azure skies!

All now silent and peaceable, I suddenly fell asleep. At midnight I
awake; when raising my head effect, I find myself alone in the
wilderness of Florida, on the shores of Lake George. Alone indeed, but
under the care of the Almighty, and protected by the invisible hand of
my guardian angel.

When quite awake, I started at the heavy tread of some animal, the dry
limbs of trees upon the ground crack under his feet; the close shrubby
thickets part and bend under him as he rushes off.

I rekindled up my sleepy fire; lay in contact the exfoliated smoking
brands damp with the dew of heaven.

The bright flame ascends and illuminates the ground and groves around
me.

When looking up, I found my fish carried off, though I had thought them
safe on the shrubs, just over my head; but their scent, carried to a
great distance by the damp noctournal breezes, I suppose were too
powerful attractions to resist.

Perhaps it may not be time lost, to rest a while here, and reflect on
the unexpected and unaccountable incident, which however pointed out to
me an extraordinary deliverance or protection of my life, from the
rapacious wolf that stole my fish from over my head.

How much easier and more eligible might it have been for him to have
leaped upon my breast in the dead of sleep, and torn my throat, which
would have instantly deprived me of life, and then glutted his stomach
for the present with my warm blood, and dragged off my body, which
would have made a feast afterwards for him and his howling associates!
I say would not this have been a wiser step, than to have made
protracted and circular approaches, and then after, by chance, espying
the fish over my head, with the greatest caution and silence rear up,
and take them off the snags one by one, then make off with them, and
that so cunningly as not to awaken me until he had fairly accomplished
his purpose?

The morning being clear, I sat sail with a favourable breeze, coasting
along the shores; when on a sudden the waters became transparent, and
discovered the sandy bottom, and the several nations of fish, passing
and repassing each other. Following this course I was led to the cape
of the little river, descending from Six Mile Springs, and meanders six
miles from its source through green meadows. I entered this pellucid
stream, sailing over the heads of innumerable squadrons of fish, which,
although many feet deep in the water, were distinctly to be seen. I
passed by charming islets of flourishing trees, as Palm, Red Bay, Ash,
Maple, Nyssa, and others. As I approached the distant high forest on
the main, the river widened, floating fields of the green Pistia
surrounded me, the rapid stream winding through them. What an alluring
scene was now before me! A vast bason or little lake of crystal waters,
half encircled by swelling hills, clad with Orange and odoriferous
Illicium groves. The towering Magnolia, itself a grove, and the exalted
Palm, as if conscious of their transcendent glories, tossed about their
lofty heads, painting, with mutable shades, the green floating fields
beneath. The social pratling coot enrobed in blue, and the squeeling
water-hen, with wings half expanded, tripped after each other, over the
watery mirror.

I put in at an ancient landing place, which is a sloping ascent to a
level grassy plain, an old Indian field. As I intended to make my most
considerable collections at this place, I proceeded immediately to fix
my encampment but a few yards from my safe harbour, where I securely
fastened my boat to a Live Oak, which overshadowed my port.

After collecting a good quantity of fire-wood, as it was about the
middle of the afternoon, I resolved to reconnoitre the ground about my
encampment. Having penetrated the groves next to me, I came to the open
forests, consisting of exceedingly tall straight Pines (Pinus
Palustris) that stood at a considerable distance from each other,
through which appeared at N. W. an almost unlimited plain of grassy
savannas, embellished with a chain of shallow ponds, as far as the
sight could reach. Here is a species of Magnolia that associates with
the Gordonia lasianthus; it is a tall tree, sixty or eighty feet in
heighth; the trunk straight; its head terminating in the form of a
sharp cone; the leaves are oblong, lanceolate, of a fine deep green,
and glaucous beneath; the flowers are large, perfectly white and
extremely fragrant: with respect to its flowers and leaves, it differs
very little from the Magnolia glauca. The silvery whiteness of the
leaves of this tree, had a striking and pleasing effect on the sight,
as it stood amidst the dark green of the Quercus dentata, Nyssa
sylvatica, Nys. aquatica, Gordonia lasianthus, and many others of the
same hue. The tall aspiring Gordonia lasianthus, which now stood in my
view in all its splendour, is every way deserving of our admiration.
Its thick foliage, of a dark green colour, is flowered over with large
milk-white fragrant blossoms, on long slender elastic peduncles, at the
extremities of its numerous branches, from the bosom of the leaves, and
renewed every morning; and that in such incredible profusion, that the
tree appears silvered over with them, and the ground beneath covered
with the fallen flowers. It at the same time continually pushes forth
new twigs, with young buds on them, and in the winter and spring the
third year’s leaves, now partly concealed by the new and perfect ones,
are gradually changing colour, from green to golden yellow, from that
to a scarlet, from scarlet to crimson; and lastly to a brownish purple,
and then fall to the ground. So that the Gordonia lasianthus may be
said to change and renew its garments every morning throughout the
year; and every day appears with unfading lustre. And moreover, after
the general flowering is past, there is a thin succession of scattering
blossoms to be seen, on some parts of the tree, almost every day
throughout the remaining months, until the floral season returns again.
Its natural situation, when growing, is on the edges of shallow ponds,
or low wet grounds on rivers, in a sandy soil, the nearest to the water
of any other tree, so that in droughty seasons its long serpentine
roots which run near or upon the surface of the earth, may reach into
the water. When the tree has arrived to the period of perfect
magnitude, it is sixty, eighty, or an hundred feet high, forming a
pyramidal head. The wood of old trees when sawn into plank is
deservedly admired in cabinet-work or furniture; it has a cinnamon
coloured ground, marbled and veined with many colours: the inner bark
is used for dying a reddish or sorrel colour; it imparts this colour to
wool, cotton, linnen, and dressed deer-skins, and is highly esteemed by
tanners.

The Zamia pumila, the Erythryna corallodendrum and the Cactus opuntia
grow here in great abundance and perfection. The first grows in the
open pine forests, in tufts or clumps, a large conical strobile
disclosing its large coral red fruit, which appears singularly
beautiful amidst the deep green fern-like pinnated leaves.

The Erythryna corallodendrum is six or eight feet high, its prickly
limbs stride and wreathe about with singular freedom, and its spikes of
crimson flowers have a fine effect amidst the delicate foliage.

The Cactus opuntia is very tall, erect, and large, and strong enough to
bear the weight of a man: some are seven or eight feet high: the whole
plant or tree seems to be formed of great oval compressed leaves or
articulations; those near the earth continually increase, magnify and
indurate as the tree advances in years, and at length lose the bright
green colour and glossy surface of their youth, acquiring a ligneous
quality, with a whitish scabrous cortex. Every part of the plant is
nearly destitute of aculea, or those fascicles of barbed bristles which
are in such plenty on the common dwarf Indian Fig. The cochineal insect
were feeding on the leaves. The female of this insect is very large and
fleshy, covered with a fine white silk or cottony web, which feels
always moist or dewy, and seems designed by nature to protect them from
the violent heat of the sun. The males are very small in comparison to
the females, and but very few in number: they each have two oblong
pellucid wings. The large polypetalus flowers are produced on the edges
of the last year’s leaves, are of a fine splendid yellow, and are
succeeded by very large pear-shaped fruit, of a dark livid purple when
ripe: its pulp is charged with a juice of a fine transparent crimson
colour, and has a cool pleasant taste, somewhat like that of a
pomegranate. Soon after eating this fruit the urine becomes of the same
crimson colour, which very much surprises and affrights a stranger, but
is attended with no other ill consequence; on the contrary, it is
esteemed wholesome, though powerfully diuretic.

On the left hand of those open forests and savannas, as we turn our
eyes southward, south-west and west, we behold an endless wild desert,
the upper stratum of the earth of which is a fine white sand, with
small pebbles, and at some distance appears entirely covered with low
trees and shrubs of various kinds, and of equal heighth, as dwarf Sweet
Bay, (Laurus Borbonia) Olea Americana, Morus rubra, Myrica cerifera,
Ptelea, Æsculus pavia, Quercus Ilex, Q. glandifer, Q. maritima, foliis
cuneiformibus obsolete trilobis minoribus, Q. pumila, Rhamnus frangula,
Halesia diptera, & Tetraptera, Cassine, Ilex aquifolium, Callicarpa
Johnsonia, Erythryna corallodendrum, Hibiscus spinifex, Zanthoxylon,
Hopea tinctoria, Sideroxylum, with a multitude of other shrubs, many of
which were new to me, and some of them admirably beautiful and
singular. One of them particularly engaged my notice, which, from its
fructification I took to be a species of Cacalia. It is an evergreen
shrub, about six or eight feet high; the leaves are generally somewhat
cuneiform, fleshy, and of a pale whitish green, both surfaces being
covered with a hoary pubescence and vesiculæ, that when pressed feels
clammy, and emits an agreeable scent; the ascendent branches terminate
with large tufts or corymbes of rose coloured flowers, of the same
agreeable scent; these cluster of flowers, at a distance, look like a
large Carnation or fringed Poppy flower, (Syngenesia Polyg. Æqul.
Linn.), Cacalia heterophylla, foliis cuneiformibus, carnosis, papil.
viscidis.

Here is also another species of the same genus, but it does not grow
quite so large; the leaves are smaller, of a yet duller green colour,
and the flowers are of a pale rose; they are both valuable evergreens.

The trees and shrubs which cover these extensive wilds are about five
or six feet high, and seem to be kept down by the annual firing of the
deserts, rather than the barrenness of the soil, as I saw a few large
Live Oaks, Mulberry trees and Hickories, which evidently have withstood
the devouring flames. These adjoining wild plains, forests, and
savannas, are situated lower than the hilly groves on the banks of the
lake and river; but what should be the natural cause of it I cannot
even pretend to conjecture, unless one may suppose that those high
hills, which we call bluffs, on the banks of this great river and its
lakes, and which support those magnificent groves and high forests, and
are generally composed of shell and sand, were thrown up to their
present heighth by the winds and waves, when the bed of the river was
nearer the level of the present surface of the earth; but then, to rest
upon such a supposition, would be admitting that the waters were
heretofore in greater quantities than at this time, or that their
present channels and receptacles are worn deeper into the earth.

I now directed my steps towards my encampment, in a different
direction. I seated myself upon a swelling green knoll, at the head of
the crystal bason. Near me, on the left, was a point or projection of
an entire grove of the aromatic Illicium Floridanum; on my right, and
all around behind me, was a fruitful Orange grove, with Palms and
Magnolias interspersed; in front, just under my feet, was the
inchanting and amazing crystal fountain, which incessantly threw up,
from dark, rocky caverns below, tons of water every minute, forming a
bason, capacious enough for large shallops to ride in, and a creek of
four or five feet depth of water, and near twenty yards over, which
meanders six miles through green meadows, pouring its limpid waters
into the great Lake George, where they seem to remain pure and unmixed.
About twenty yards from the upper edge of the bason, and directly
opposite to the mouth or outlet to the creek, is a continual and
amazing ebullition, where the waters are thrown up in such abundance
and amazing force, as to jet and swell up two or three feet above the
common surface: white sand and small particles of shells are thrown up
with the waters, near to the top, when they diverge from the centre,
subside with the expanding flood, and gently sink again, forming a
large rim or funnel round about the aperture or mouth of the fountain,
which is a vast perforation through a bed of rocks, the ragged points
of which are projected out on every side. Thus far I know to be matter
of real fact, and I have related it as near as I could conceive or
express myself. But there are yet remaining scenes inexpressibly
admirable and pleasing.

Behold, for instance, a vast circular expanse before you, the waters of
which are so extremely clear as to be absolutely diaphanous or
transparent as the ether; the margin of the bason ornamented with a
great variety of fruitful and floriferous trees, shrubs, and plants,
the pendant golden Orange dancing on the surface of the pellucid
waters, the balmy air vibrates the melody of the merry birds, tenants
of the encircling aromatic grove.

At the same instant innumerable bands of fish are seen, some clothed in
the most brilliant colours; the voracious crocodile stretched along at
full length, as the great trunk of a tree in size; the devouring
garfish, inimical trout, and all the varieties of gilded painted bream,
the barbed catfish, dreaded sting-ray, skate, and flounder, spotted
bass, sheeps head and ominous drum; all in their separate bands and
communities, with free and unsuspicious intercourse performing their
evolutions: there are no signs of enmity, no attempt to devour each
other; the different bands seem peaceably and complaisantly to move a
little aside, as it were to make room for others to pass by.

But behold yet something far more admirable, see whole armies
descending into an abyss, into the mouth of the bubbling fountain: they
disappear! are they gone for ever? is it real? I raise my eyes with
terror and astonishment; I look down again to the fountain with
anxiety, when behold them as it were emerging from the blue ether of
another world, apparently at a vast distance, at their first
appearance, no bigger than flies or minnows; now gradually enlarging,
their brilliant colours begin to paint the fluid.

Now they come forward rapidly, and instantly emerge, with the elastic
expanding column of crystalline waters, into the circular bason or
funnel: see now how gently they rise, some upright, others obliquely,
or seem to lie as it were on their sides, suffering themselves to be
gently lifted or born up by the expanding fluid towards the surface,
sailing or floating like butterflies in the cerulean ether: then again
they as gently descend, diverge and move off; when they rally, form
again, and rejoin their kindred tribes.

This amazing and delightful scene, though real, appears at first but as
a piece of excellent painting; there seems no medium; you imagine the
picture to be within a few inches of your eyes, and that you may
without the least difficulty touch any one of the fish, or put your
finger upon the crocodile’s eye, when it really is twenty or thirty
feet under water.

And although this paradise of fish may seem to exhibit a just
representation of the peaceable and happy state of nature which existed
before the fall, yet in reality it is a mere representation; for the
nature of the fish is the same as if they were in Lake George or the
river; but here the water or element in which they live and move, is so
perfectly clear and transparent, it places them all on an equality with
regard to their ability to injure or escape from one another; (as all
river fish of prey, or such as feed upon each other, as well as the
unwieldy crocodile, take their prey by surprise; secreting themselves
under covert or in ambush, until an opportunity offers, when they rush
suddenly upon them:) but here is no covert, no ambush; here the trout
freely passes by the very nose of the alligator, and laughs in his
face, and the bream by the trout.

But what is really surprising, that the consciousness of each other’s
safety or some other latent cause, should so absolutely alter their
conduct, for here is not the least attempt made to injure or disturb
one another.

The sun passing below the horizon, and night approaching, I arose from
my seat, and proceeding on arrived at my camp, kindled my fire, supped
and reposed peaceably. Rising early, I employed the fore part of the
day in collecting specimens of growing roots and seeds. In the
afternoon, I left these Elysian springs and the aromatic groves, and
briskly descend the pellucid little river, re-entering the great lake.
The wind being gentle and fair for Mount Royal, I hoisted sail, and
successfully crossing the N. west bay, about nine miles, came to at
Rocky Point, the west cape or promontory, as we enter the river
descending towards Mount Royal: these rocks are horizontal slabs or
flat masses, rising out of the lake two or three feet above its
surface, and seem an aggregate composition or concrete of sand, shells
and calcareous cement, of a dark grey or dusky colour. The stones are
hard and firm enough for buildings, and serve very well for light hand
mill-stones; and when calcined afford a coarse lime: they lie in vast
horizontal masses upon one another, from one to two or three feet in
thickness, and are easily separated and broken to any size or form, for
the purpose of building. Rocky Point is an airy, cool, and delightful
situation, commanding a most ample and pleasing prospect of the lake
and its environs; but here being no wood, I re-embarked and sailed down
a little farther to the island in the bay, where I went on shore at a
magnificent grove of Magnolias and Oranges, desirous of augmenting my
collections. I arose early next morning, and after ranging the groves
and savannas, returned, embarked again, and descending, called at Mount
Royal, where I enlarged my collections; and bidding adieu to the
gentleman and lady who resided there, and who treated me with great
hospitality on my ascent up the river; arrived in the evening at the
lower trading house.

 [19] Cucurbita peregrina.

 [20] New-Smyrna is built on a high shelly bluff, on the west bank of
 the South branch of Mosquito river, about ten miles above the capes of
 that river, which is about thirty miles North of Cape Canaveral, Lat
 28. I was there about ten years ago, when the surveyor run the lines
 or precincts of the colony, where there was neither habitation nor
 cleared field. It was then a famous Orange grove, the upper or South
 promontory of a ridge, nearly half a mile wide, and stretching North
 about forty miles, to the head of the North branch of the Musquito, to
 where the Tomoko river unites with it, nearly parallel to the sea
 coast, and not above two miles across to the sea beach. All this ridge
 was then one entire Orange grove, with Live Oaks, Mangolias, Palms,
 Red Bays and others: I observed then, near where New Smyrna now
 stands, a spacious Indian mount and avenue, which stood near the banks
 of the river: the avenue ran on a straight line back, through the
 groves, across the ridge, and terminated at the verge of natural
 savannas and ponds.

 [21] Tantalus pictus.

 [22] Tantalus albus. Numinus albus Cat.

 [23] Tantalus versicolor. Numinus fuscus. Cat.

 [24] Tantalus loculator. Linn.

 [25] Vultur sacra.

 [26] Vultur aura.

 [27] Cyprinus coronarius.

 [28] Caprimulgus rufus, called chuck-will’s-widow, from a fancied
 resemblance of his notes to these words: it inhabits the maritime
 parts of Carolina and Florida, and is more than twice the size of the
 night hawk or whip-poor-will.

 [29] Passiflora incarnata, called May-Apple.

CHAPTER VI.

On my return from my voyage to the upper store, I understood the
trading company designed for Cuscowilla, that they had been very active
in their preparations, and would be ready to set off in a few days. I
therefore availed myself of the little time allowed me to secure and
preserve my collections, against the arrival of the trading schooner,
which was hourly expected, that every thing might be in readiness to be
shipped on board her, in case she should load again and return for
Savanna during my absence.

Every necessary being now in readiness, early on a fine morning we
proceeded, attended by four men under the conduct of an old trader,
whom Mr. M’Latche had delegated to treat with the Cowkeeper and other
chiefs of Cuscowilla, on the subject of re-establishing the trade, &c.
agreeable to the late treaty of St. Augustine.

For the first four or five miles we travelled west-ward, over a
perfectly level plain, which appeared before and on each side of us, as
a charming green meadow, thinly planted with low spreading Pine trees
(P. palustris). The upper stratum of the earth is a fine white
crystalline sand, the very upper surface of which being mixed or
incorporated with the ashes of burnt vegetables, renders it of
sufficient strength or fertility to clothe itself perfectly with a very
great variety of grasses, herbage, and remarkably low shrubs, together
with a very dwarf species of Palmetto (Corypha pumila stipit.
serratis). Of the low shrubs many were new to me and of a very pleasing
appearance, particularly a species of Annona (Annona incarna, floribus
grandioribus paniculatis); this grows three, four, or five feet high,
the leaves somewhat cuneiform or broad lanceolate, attenuating down to
the petiole, of a pale or light green colour, covered with a pubescence
or short fine down; the flowers very large, perfectly white and sweet
scented, many connected together on large loose panicles or spikes; the
fruit of the size and form of a small cucumber, the skin or exterior
surface somewhat rimose or scabrous, containing a yellow pulp of the
consistence of a hard custard, and very delicious, wholesome food. This
seems a variety, if not the same that I first remarked, growing on the
Alatamaha near Fort Barrington, Charlotia, and many other places in
Georgia and East-Florida; and I observed here in plenty the very dwarf
decumbent Annona, with narrow leaves, and various flowers already
noticed at Alatamaha (Annona pigmæa). Here is also abundance of the
beautiful little dwarf Kalmia ciliata, already described. The white
berried Empetrum, a very pretty evergreen, grows here on somewhat
higher and drier knolls, in large patches or clumps, associated with
Olea Americana, several species of dwarf Querci (Oaks) Vaccinium,
Gordonia lasianthus, Andromeda ferruginea, and a very curious and
beautiful shrub which seems allied to the Rhododendron, Cassine,
Rhamnus frangula, Andromeda nitida, &c. which being of dark green
foliage, diversify and enliven the landscape: but what appears very
extraordinary, is to behold here, depressed and degraded, the glorious
pyramidal Magnolia grandiflora, associated amongst these vile dwarfs,
and even some of them rising above it, though not five feet high; yet
still showing large, beautiful and expansive white fragrant blossoms,
and great heavy cones, on slender procumbent branches, some even lying
on the earth; the ravages of fire keep them down, as is evident from
the vast excrescent tuberous roots, covering several feet of ground,
from which these slender shoots spring.

In such clumps and coverts are to be seen several kinds of birds,
particularly a species of jay (Pica glandaria cerulea non cristata):
they are generally of an azure blue colour, have no crest or tuft of
feathers on the head, nor are they so large as the great crested blue
jay of Virginia, but are equally clamorous. The towee birds (fringilla
erythrophthalma) are very numerous, as are a species of bluish grey
butcher bird (lanius.) Here were also lizards and snakes. The lizards
were of that species called in Carolina, scorpions: they are from five
to six inches in length, of a slender form; the tail in particular is
very long and small; they are of a yellowish clay colour, varied with
longitudinal lines or stripes of a dusky brown colour, from head to
tail: they are wholly covered with very small squamæ, vibrate their
tail, and dart forth and brandish their forked tongue after the manner
of serpents, when they are surprised or in pursuit of their prey, which
are scarabei, locustæ, musci, and other insects; but I do not learn
that their bite is poisonous, yet I have observed cats to be sick soon
after eating them. After passing over this extensive, level, hard, wet
savanna, we crossed a fine brook or rivulet; the water cool and
pleasant; its banks adorned with varieties of trees and shrubs,
particularly the delicate Cyrilla racemifiora, Chionanthus, Clethra,
Nyssa sylvatica, Andromeda nitida, Andromeda formosissima: and here
were great quantities of a very large and beautiful Filix osmunda,
growing in great tufts or clumps. After leaving the rivulet, we passed
over a wet, hard, level glade or down, covered with a fine short grass,
with abundance of low saw Palmetto, and a few shrubby Pine trees,
Quercus nigra, Quercus sinuata or scarlet Oak: then the path descends
to a wet bay-gale; the ground a hard, fine, white sand, covered with
black slush, which continued above two miles, when it gently rises the
higher sand hills, and directly after passes through a fine grove of
young long-leaved pines. The soil seemed here loose, brown, coarse,
sandy loam, though fertile. The ascent of the hill, ornamented with a
variety and profusion of herbaceous plants and grasses, particularly
Amaryllis atamasco, Clitoria, Phlox, Ipomea, Convolvulus, Verbena
corymbosa, Ruellia, Viola, &c. A magnificent grove of stately pines,
succeeding to the expansive wild plains we had a long time traversed,
had a pleasing effect, rousing the faculties of the mind, awakening the
imagination by its sublimity, and arresting every active, inquisitive
idea, by the variety of the scenery and the solemn symphony of the
steady western breezes, playing incessantly, rising and falling through
the thick and wavy foliage.

The pine groves passed, we immediately find ourselves on the entrance
of the expansive airy pine forests, on parallel chains of low swelling
mounds, called the Sand Hills; their ascent so easy, as to be almost
imperceptible to the progressive traveller, yet at a distant view
before us in some degree exhibit the appearance of the mountainous
swell of the ocean immediately after a tempest; but yet, as we approach
them, they insensibly disappear, and seem to be lost, and we should be
ready to conclude all to be a visionary scene, were it not for the
sparkling ponds and lakes, which at the same time gleam through the
open forests, before us and on every side, retaining them on the eye,
until we come up with them. And at last the imagination remains
flattered and dubious, by their uniformity, being mostly circular or
elliptical, and almost surrounded with expansive green meadows; and
always a picturesque dark grove of Live Oak, Magnolia, Gordonia, and
the fragrant Orange, encircling a rocky shaded grotto of transparent
water, on some border of the pond or lake; which, without the aid of
any poetic fable, one might naturally suppose to be the sacred abode or
temporary residence of the guardian spirit; but is actually the
possession and retreat of a thundering absolute crocodile.

Arrived early in the evening at the Halfway pond, where we encamped and
stayed all night. This lake spreads itself in a spacious meadow,
beneath a chain of elevated sand-hills: the sheet of water at this time
was about three miles in circumference; the upper end, and just under
the hills surrounded by a crescent of dark groves, which shaded a rocky
grotto. Near this place was a sloping green bank, terminating by a
point of flat rocks, which projected into the lake, and formed one
point of the crescent that partly surrounded the vast grotto or bason
of transparent waters, which is called by the traders a sink-hole, a
singular kind of vortex or conduit, to the subterranean receptacles of
the waters; but though the waters of these ponds, in the summer and dry
seasons, evidently tend towards these sinks, yet it is so slowly and
gradually, as to be almost imperceptible. There is always a meandering
channel winding through the savannas or meadows, which receives the
waters spread over them, by several lateral smaller branches, slowly
conveying them along into the lake, and finally into the bason, and
with them nations of the finny tribes.

Just by the little cape of flat rocks, we fixed our encampment, where I
enjoyed a comprehensive and varied scene, the verdant meadows spread
abroad, charmingly decorated by green points of grassy lawns and dark
promontories of wood-land, projecting into the green plains.

Behold now at still evening, the sun yet streaking the embroidered
savannas, armies of fish pursuing their pilgrimage to the grand
pellucid fountain, and when here arrived, all quiet and peaceable,
encircle the little cerulean hemisphere, they descend into the dark
caverns of the earth; where, probably, they are separated from each
other, by innumerable paths, or secret rocky avenues; and after
encountering various obstacles, and beholding new and unthought-of
scenes of pleasure and disgust, after many days absence from the
surface of the world emerge again from the dreary vaults, and appear
exulting in gladness, and sporting in the transparent waters of some
far distant lake.

The various kinds of fish and amphibious animals, that inhabit these
inland lakes and waters, may be mentioned here, as many of them here
assembled, pass and repass in the lucid grotto: first the crocodile
alligator; great brown spotted garr, accoutred in an impenetrable coat
of mail: this admirable animal may be termed a cannibal amongst fish,
as fish are his prey; when fully grown he is from five to six feet in
length, and of proportionable thickness, of a dusky brown colour,
spotted with black. The Indians make use of their sharp teeth to
scratch or bleed themselves with, and their pointed scales to arm their
arrows. This fish is sometimes eaten, and to prepare them for food,
they cover them whole in hot embers, where they bake them; the skin
with the scales easily peels off, leaving the meat white and tender.

The mud fish is large, thick or round, but two feet in length; his meat
white and tender, but soft and tastes of the mud, and is not much
esteemed. The great devouring trout and catfish are in abundance; the
golden bream or sunfish, the red bellied bream, the silver or white
bream, the great yellow and great black or blue bream, also abound
here. The last of these mentioned, is a large, beautiful and delicious
fish; when full grown they are nine inches in length, and five to six
inches in breadth; the whole body is of a dull blue or indigo colour,
marked with transverse lists or zones of a darker colour, scatteringly
powdered with sky blue, gold and red specks; fins and tail of a dark
purple or livid flesh colour; the ultimate angle of the branchiostega
forming a spatula, the extreme end of which is broad and circular,
terminating like the feather of the peacock’s train, and having a
brilliant spot or eye like it, being delicately painted with a fringed
border of a fire colour.

The great yellow or particoloured bream is in form and proportion much
like the forementioned, but larger, from a foot to fifteen inches in
length; his back from head to tail is of a dark clay and dusky colour,
with transverse dashes or blotches, of reddish dull purple, or bluish,
according to different exposures to light; the sides and belly of a
bright pale yellow; the belly faintly stained with vermillion red,
insensibly blended with the yellow on the sides, and all garnished with
fiery, blue, green, gold and silver specks on the scales; the
branchiostega is of a yellowish clay or straw colour, the lower edge or
border next the opening of the gills, is near a quarter of an inch in
breadth, of a sea green or marine blue, the ulterior angle protends
backwards to a considerable length, in the form of a spatula or
feather, the extreme end dilated and circular, of a deep black or crow
colour, reflecting green and blue, and bordered round with fiery red,
somewhat like red sealing-wax, representing a brilliant ruby on the
side of the fish; the fins reddish, edged with a dove colour: they are
deservedly esteemed a most excellent fish.

[Illustration: Great Soft-shelled Tortoise]

Here are, as well as in all the rivers, lakes, and ponds of East
Florida, the great soft-shelled tortoise[30]: they are very large when
full grown, from twenty to thirty and forty pounds weight, extremely
fat and delicious, but if eaten to excess, are apt to purge people not
accustomed to eat their meat.

They are flat and very thin; two feet and a half in length, and
eighteen inches in breadth across the back; in form, appearance and
texture, very much resembling the sea turtle: the whole back shell,
except the vertebrae or ridge, which is not at all prominent, and ribs
on each side, is soft or cartilaginous, and easily reduced to a jelly
when boiled; the anterior and posterior extremities of the back shell,
appear to be embossed with round, horny warts or tubercles, the belly
or nether shell is but small and semicartilaginous, except a narrow
cross bar connecting it at each end with the back shell, which is hard
and osseous; the head is large and clubbed, of nearly an oval form, the
upper mandible, however, is protended forward, and truncated, somewhat
resembling a swine’s snout, at the extreme end of which the nostrils
are placed; on each side of the root or base of this proboscis are the
eyes, which are large; the upper beak is hooked and sharp, like a
hawk’s bill; the lips and corners of the mouth large, tumid, wrinkled
and barbed with long, pointed warts, which he can project and contract
at pleasure, which gives the creature a frightful and disagreeable
countenance. They bury themselves in the slushy bottoms of rivers and
ponds, under the roots of flags and other aquatic herbage, leaving a
hole or aperture just sufficient for their head to play through; in
such places they withdraw themselves when hungry, and there seize their
prey by surprise, darting out their heads as quick as lightning, upon
the unwary animal that unfortunately strolls within their reach: they
can extend their neck to a surprising length, which enables them to
seize young fowl swimming on the surface of the water above them, which
they instantly drag down. They are seen to raise their heads above the
surface of the water, in the depths of the lakes and rivers, and blow,
causing a faint puffing noise, somewhat like a porpoise; probably this
is for pastime, or to charge themselves with a proper supply of fresh
air. They are carnivorous, feeding on any animal they can seize,
particularly young ducks, frogs and fish.

[Illustration: Head of the Great Softshelled Tortoise]

We had a large and fat one served up for our supper, which I at first
apprehended we had made a very extravagant waste of, not being able to
consume one half of its flesh, though excellently well cooked; my
companions, however, seemed regardless, being in the midst of plenty
and variety, at any time within our reach, and to be obtained with
little or no trouble or fatigue on our part; when herds of deer were
feeding in the green meadows before us; flocks of turkeys, walking in
the groves around us, and myriads of fish, of the greatest variety and
delicacy, sporting in the crystalline floods before our eyes.

The vultures and ravens, crouched on the crooked limbs of the lofty
pines, at a little distance from us, sharpening their beaks, in low
debate, waiting to regale themselves on the offals, after our departure
from camp.

At the return of the morning, by the powerful influence of light, the
pulse of nature becomes more active, and the universal vibration of
life insensibly and irresistibly moves the wondrous machine. How
cheerful and gay all nature appears! Hark! the musical savanna cranes,
ere the chirping sparrow flirts from his grassy couch, or the glorious
sun gilds the tops of the pines, spread their expansive wings, leave
their lofty roosts, and repair to the ample plains.

From Half-way pond, we proceed westward, through the high forests of
Cuscowilla.

The appearance of the earth for five or six miles, presented nearly the
same scenes as heretofore.

Now the sand ridges became higher, and their bases proportionably more
extensive; the savannas and ponds more expansive; the summit of the
ridges more gravelly; here and there, heaps or piles of rocks, emerging
out of the sand and gravel: these rocks are the same sort of concrete
of sand and shells as noticed on St. Juan’s and the great lake. The
vegetable productions nearly the same as already mentioned.

We gently descended again over sand ridges, crossed a rapid brook,
ripling over the gravelly bed, hurrying the transparent waters into a
vast and beautiful lake, through a fine fruitful Orange grove; which
magnificently adorns the banks of the lake to a great distance on each
side of the capes of the creek. This is a fine situation for a capital
town. These waters are tributary to St. Juan’s.

We alighted to refresh ourselves, and adjust our packs. Here are
evident signs and traces of a powerful settlement of the ancients.

Sat off again, and continued travelling over a magnificent pine forest,
the ridges low, but their bases extensive, with proportionable plains.
The steady breezes gently and continually rising and falling, fill the
high lonesome forests with an awful reverential harmony, inexpressibly
sublime, and not to be enjoyed any where, but in these native wild
Indian regions.

Crossing another large deep creek of St. Juan’s, the country is a vast
level plain, and the soil good for the distance of four or five miles,
though light and sandy, producing a forest of stately pines and
laurels, with some others; and a vast profusion of herbage, such as
Rudbeckia, Helianthus, Silphium, Polymnia, Ruellia, Verbena, Rhexia,
Convolvulus, Sophora, Glycine, Vitia, Clitorea, Ipomea, Urtica, Salvia
graveolens, Viola, and many more. How cheerful and social is the rural
converse of the various tribes of tree frogs, whilst they look to
heaven for prolific showers! How harmonious the shrill tuneful songs of
the wood thrush, and the soothing love lays of the amorous cuckoo[31],
seated in the cool leafy branches of the stately Magnolias and shadowy
Elms, Maples and Liquidambar, together with gigantic Fagus sylvatica,
which shade and perfume these sequestered groves! How unexpected and
enchanting the enjoyment, after traversing a burning sandy desert!

Now, again, we behold the open pine forests, and ascend the sandy
hills, which continue for some miles, then gently descend again, when a
level expansive savanna plain presents itself to view, which, after
entering, and proceeding on, becomes wet and covered by a fine short
grass, with extensive parterres of the dwarf creeping Palmetto, its
stipes sharply toothed or serrated together with clumps of low shrubs,
as Kalmia, Andromeda, Annona pygmea, Myrica cerifera, Empetrum,
Vaccinium, and others.

We now ascend a little again, and pass through a narrow pine forest;
when suddenly opens to view a vastly extensive and sedgy marsh,
expanding Southerly like an open fan, seemingly as boundless as the
great ocean: our road crossing the head of it, about three hundred
yards over; the bottom here, was hard sand, a foot or more under a soft
muddy surface. The traders informed me that these vast marshes lay on
the borders of a great lake, many miles in length, in magnitude
exceeding Lake George, and communicating with St. Juan’s by a
river[32]; its confluence above the lower store at the Little Lake.

Observed as we passed over the same hills, the dens of the great land
tortoise, called gopher: this strange creature remains yet undescribed
by historians and travellers. The first signs of this animal’s
existence, as we travel Southerly, are immediately after we cross the
Savanna River. It is to be seen only on the high dry sand hills. When
arrived at its greatest magnitude, the upper shell is near eighteen
inches in length, and ten or twelve inches in breadth; the back is very
high, and the shell of a very hard bony substance, consisting of many
regular compartments, united by sutures, in the manner of the other
species of tortoise, and covered with thin horny plates. The nether or
belly shell is large, and regularly divided transversely, into five
parts: these compartments are not knit together like the sutures of the
skull, or the back shell of the tortoise, but adhere, or are connected
together by a very ridgy horny cartilage, which serves as hinges for
him to shut up his body within his shell at pleasure. The fore part of
the belly shell towards its extremity is formed somewhat like a spade,
extends forward near three inches, and is about an inch and an half in
breadth; its extremity is a little bifid, the posterior division of the
belly shell, is likewise protended backwards considerably, and is
deeply bifurcated.

The legs and feet are covered with flat horny squamæ; he seems to have
no clefts in them or toes, but long flattish nails or talons, somewhat
in resemblance to the nails of the human fingers, five on the fore
feet; the hind legs or feet appear as if truncated, or as stumps of
feet, armed all round with sharp, flattish strong nails, the number
undetermined or irregular; the head is of a moderate size; the upper
mandible a little hooked, the edges hard and sharp; the eyes are large;
the nose picked; the nostrils near together and very minute; the
general colour of the animal is a light ash or clay, and at a distance,
unless it is in motion, any one would disregard or overlook it as a
stone or an old stump. It is astonishing what a weight one of these
creatures will bear; it will easily carry any man standing on its back,
on level ground. They form great and deep dens in the sand hills,
casting out incredible quantities of earth. They are esteemed excellent
food. The eggs are larger than a musket ball, perfectly round, and the
shell hard.

After crossing over this point or branch of the marshes, we entered a
noble forest, the land level, and the soil fertile, being a loose, dark
brown, coarse sandy loam, on a clay or marley foundation: the forests
were orange groves, overtoped by grand Magnolias, Palms, Live Oaks,
Juglans cinerea, Morus rubra, Fagus sylvatica, Tilia and Liquidambar,
with various kinds of shrubs and herbaceous plants, particularly
Callicarpa, Halesia, Sambucus, Zanthoxylon, Ptelea, Rhamnus frangula,
Rudbeckia, Silphium, Polymnia, Indigo fera, Sophora, Salvia graveolens,
&c. We were cheerfully received in this hospitable shade, by various
tribes of birds; their sprightly songs seemed a prelude to the vicinity
of human habitations. This magnificent grove was a wing of the vast
forests lying upon the coast of the great and beautiful lake of
Cuscowilla, at no great distance from us. Continuing eight or nine
miles through this sublime forest, we entered on an open forest of
lofty pines and oaks, on gently swelling sand hills, and presently saw
the lake, its waters sparkling through the open groves. Near the path
was a large artificial mound of earth, on a most charming, high
situation, supposed to be the work of the ancient Floridans or
Yamasees; with other traces of an Indian town. Here were three or four
Indian habitations; the women and children saluted us with cheerfulness
and complaisance. After riding near a mile farther, we arrived at
Cuscowilla, near the banks: a pretty brook of water ran through the
town, and entered the lake just by.

We were welcomed to the town, and conducted by the young men and
maidens to the chief’s house, which stood on an eminence, and was
distinguished from the rest by its superior magnitude, a large flag
being hoisted on a high staff at one corner. We immediately alighted:
the chief, who is called the Cowkeeper, attended by several ancient
men, came to us, and in a very free and sociable manner, shook our
hands, or rather arms, (a form of salutation peculiar to the American
Indians) saying at the same time, “You are come.” We followed him to an
apartment prepared for the reception of their guests.

The pipe being filled, it is handed around; after which a large bowl,
with what they call “thin drink,” is brought in and set down on a small
low table. In this bowl is a great wooden ladle; each person takes up
in it as much as he pleases, and after drinking until satisfied,
returns it again into the bowl, pushing the handle towards the next
person in the circle; and so it goes round.

After the usual compliments and enquiries relative to our adventures,
&c. the chief trader informed the Cowkeeper, in the presence of his
council or attendants, the purport of our business, with which he
expressed his satisfaction. He was then informed what the nature of my
errand was, and he received me with complaisance, giving me unlimited
permission to travel over the country for the purpose of collecting
flowers, medicinal plants, &c. saluting me by the name of PUC PUGGY, or
the Flower hunter, recommending me to the friendship and protection of
his people.

The next day being agreed on to hold a council and transact the
business of our embassy, we acquainted the chief with our intention of
making our encampment on the borders of the great ALACHUA SAVANNA, and
to return at the time appointed to town, to attend the council
according to agreement.

Soon after we had fixed on the time and manner of proceeding on the
further settlement of the treaty, a considerable number of Indians
assembled around their chief, when the conversation turned to common
and familiar topics.

The chief is a tall well made man, very affable and cheerful, about
sixty years of age, his eyes lively and full of fire, his countenance
manly and placid, yet ferocious, or what we call savage, his nose
aquiline, his dress extremely simple, but his head trimmed and
ornamented in the true Creek mode. He has been a great warrior, having
then attending him as slaves, many Yamasee captives, taken by himself
when young. They were dressed better than he, and served and waited
upon him with signs of the most abject fear. The manners and customs of
the Alachuas, and most of the lower Creeks or Siminoles, appear
evidently tinctured with Spanish civilization. Their religious and
civil usages manifest a predilection for the Spanish customs. There are
several Christians among them, many of whom wear little silver
crucifixes, affixed to a wampum collar round their necks, or suspended
by a small chain upon their breast. These are said to be baptized; and
notwithstanding most of them speak and understand Spanish, yet they
have been the most bitter and formidable Indian enemies the Spaniards
ever had. The slaves, both male and female, are permitted to marry
amongst them: their children are free, and considered in every respect
equal to themselves; but the parents continue in a state of slavery as
long as they live.

In observing these slaves, we behold at once, in their countenance and
manners, the striking contrast betwixt a state of freedom and slavery.
They are the tamest, the most abject creatures that we can possibly
imagine: mild, peaceable, and tractable, they seem to have no will or
power to act but as directed by their masters; whilst the free Indians,
on the contrary, are bold, active and clamorous. They differ as widely
from each other as the bull from the ox.

The repast is now brought in, consisting of venison, stewed with bear’s
oil, fresh corn cakes, milk, and homony; and our drink, honey and
water, very cool and agreeable. After partaking of this banquet, we
took leave and departed for the great savanna.

We soon entered a level, grassy plain, interspersed with low,
spreading, three leaved Pine trees, large patches of low shrubs,
consisting of Prinos glaber, low Myrica, Kalmia glauca, Andromedas of
several species, and many other shrubs, with patches of Palmetto. We
continued travelling through this savanna or bay-gale, near two miles,
when the land ascends a little; we then entered a hommock or dark
grove, consisting of various kinds of trees, as the Magnolia
grandiflora, Corypha palma, Citrus Aurantium, Quercus sempervirens,
Morus rubra, Ulmus sylvatica, Tilia, Juglans cinerea, Æsculus pavia,
Liquidambar, Laurus Borbonia, Hopea tinctoria, Cercis, Cornus Florida,
Halesia diptera, Halesia tetraptera, Olea Americana, Callicarpa,
Andromeda arborea, Sideroxylon sericium, Sid. tenax, Vitis labrusca,
Hedera arborea, Hedera quinquefolia, Rhamnus volubilis, Prunus
Caroliniana (pr. flor. racemosis, foliis sempervirentibus,
lato-lanceolatis, accumunatis, serratis) Fagus sylvatica, Zanthoxylon
clava Herculis, Acer rubrum, Acer negundo, Fraxinus excelsior, with
many others already mentioned. The land still gently rising, the soil
fertile, loose, loamy and of a dark brown colour. This continues near a
mile, when at once opens to view the most sudden transition from
darkness to light, that can poffibly be exhibited in a natural
landscape.

The extensive Alachua savanna is a level green plain, above fifteen
miles over, fifty miles in circumference, and scarcely a tree or bush
of any kind to be seen on it. It is encircled with high, sloping hills,
covered with waving forests and fragrant Orange groves, rising from an
exuberantly fertile soil. The towering Magnolia grandiflora and
transcendent Palm, stand conspicuous amongst them. At the same time are
seen innumerable droves of cattle; the lordly bull, lowing cow, and
sleek capricious heifer. The hills and groves re-echo their cheerful,
social voices. Herds of sprightly deer, squadrons of the beautiful
fleet Siminole horse, flocks of turkeys, civilized communities of the
sonorous watchful crane, mix together, appearing happy and contented in
the enjoyment of peace, till disturbed and affrighted by the warrior
man. Behold yonder, coming upon them through the darkened groves,
sneakingly and unawares, the naked red warrior, invading the Elysian
fields and green plains of Alachua. At the terrible appearance of the
painted, fearless, uncontrouled and free Siminole, the peaceful,
innocent nations are at once thrown into disorder and dismay. See the
different tribes and bands, how they draw towards each other! as it
were deliberating upon the general good. Suddenly they speed off with
their young in the centre; but the roebuck fears him not: here he lays
himself down, bathes and flounces in the cool flood. The red warrior,
whose plumed head flashes lightning, whoops in vain; his proud,
ambitious horse strains and pants; the earth glides from under his
feet, his flowing mane whistles in the wind, as he comes up full of
vain hopes. The bounding roe views his rapid approaches, rises up,
lifts aloft his antlered head, erects the white flag[33], and fetching
a shrill whistle, says to his fleet and free associates, “follow;” he
bounds off, and in a few minutes distances his foe a mile; suddenly he
stops, turns about, and laughing says, “how vain! go chase meteors in
the azure plains above, or hunt butterflies in the fields about your
towns.”

We approached the savanna at the south end, by a narrow isthmus of
level ground, open to the light of day, and clear of trees or bushes,
and not greatly elevated above the common level, having on our right a
spacious meadow, embellished with a little lake, one verge of which was
not very distant from us; its shore is a moderately high, circular
bank, partly encircling a cove of the pond, in the form of a half moon;
the water is clear and deep, and, at the distance of some hundred
yards, was a large floating field (if I may so express myself) of the
Nymphæa nelumbo, with their golden blossoms waving to and fro on their
lofty stems. Beyond these fields of Nymphæa were spacious plains,
encompassed by dark groves, opening to extensive pine forests, other
plains still appearing beyond them.

This little lake and surrounding meadows would have been alone
sufficient to surprise and delight the traveller; but being placed so
near the great savanna, the attention is quickly drawn off, and wholly
engaged in the contemplation of the unlimited, varied, and truly
astonishing native wild scenes of landscape and perspective, there
exhibited: how is the mind agitated and bewildered, at being thus, as
it were, placed on the borders of a new world! On the first view of
such an amazing display of the wisdom and power of the supreme author
of nature, the mind for a moment seems suspended, and impressed with
awe.

This isthmus being the common avenue or road of Indian travellers, we
pitched our camp at a small distance from it, on a rising knoll near
the verge of the savanna, under some spreading Live Oaks: this
situation was open and airy, and gave us an unbounded prospect over the
adjacent plains. Dewy evening now came on; the animating breezes, which
cooled and tempered the meridian hours of this sultry season, now
gently ceased; the glorious sovereign of the day, calling in his bright
beaming emanations, left us in his absence to the milder government and
protection of the silver queen of night, attended by millions of
brilliant luminaries. The thundering alligator had ended his horrifying
roar; the silver plumed gannet and stork, the sage and solitary pelican
of the wilderness, have already retired to their silent nocturnal
habitations, in the neighbouring forests; the sonorous savanna cranes,
in well-disciplined squadrons, now rising from the earth, mount aloft
in spiral circles, far above the dense atmosphere of the humid plain;
they again viewed the glorious sun, and the light of day still gleaming
on their polished feathers, they sung their evening hymn, then in a
straight line majestically descended, and alighted on the towering
Palms or lofty Pines, their secure and peaceful lodging places. All
around being still and silent, we repaired to rest.

Soon after sun-rise, a party of Indians on horseback, appeared upon the
savanna, to collect together several herds of cattle which they drove
along near our camp, towards the town. One of the party came up, and
informed us, the cattle belonged to the chief of Cuscowilla; that he
had ordered some of the best steers of his droves to be slaughtered for
a general feast for the whole town, in compliment of our arrival, and
pacific negotiations.

The cattle were as large and fat as those of the rich grazing pastures
of Moyomensing in Pennsylvania. The Indians drove off the lowing herds,
and we soon followed them to town, in order to be at council at the
appointed hour, leaving two young men of our party to protect our camp.

Upon our arrival we repaired to the public square or council-house,
where the chiefs and senators were already convened, the warriors and
young men assembled soon after, the business being transacted in
public. As it was no more than a ratification of the late treaty of St.
Augustine, with some particular commercial stipulations, with respect
to the citizens of Alachua, the negociations soon terminated to the
satisfaction of both parties.

The banquet succeeded; the ribs and choisest fat pieces of the
bullocks, excellently well barbecued, were brought into the apartment
of the public square, constructed and appointed for feasting; bowls and
kettles of stewed flesh and broth were brought in for the next course,
and with it a very singular dish, the traders call it tripe soup; it is
made of the belly or paunch of the beef, not overcleansed of its
contents, cut and minced pretty fine, and then made into a thin soup,
seasoned well with salt and aromatic herbs; but the seasoning not quite
strong enough to extinguish its original savour and scent. This dish is
greatly esteemed by the Indians, but is, in my judgment, the least
agreeable they have amongst them.

The town of Cuscowilla, which is the capital of the Alachua tribe,
contains about thirty habitations, each of which consists of two houses
nearly the same size, about thirty feet in length, twelve feet wide,
and about the same in height. The door is placed midway on one side or
in the front. This house is divided equally, across, into two
apartments, one of which is the cook room and common hall, and the
other their lodging room. The other house is nearly of the same
dimensions, standing about twenty yards from the dwelling house, its
end fronting the door. The building is two stories high, and
constructed in a different manner. It is divided transversely, as the
other, but the end next the dwelling house is open on three sides,
supported by posts or pillars. It has an open loft or platform, the
ascent to which is by a portable stair or ladder: this is a pleasant,
cool, airy situation, and here the master or chief of the family
retires to repose in the hot seasons, and receives his guests or
visitors. The other half of this building is closed on all sides by
notched logs; the lowest or ground part is a potatoe house, and the
upper story over it a granary for corn and other provisions. Their
houses are constructed of a kind of frame. In the first place, strong
corner pillars are fixed in the ground, with others somewhat less,
ranging on a line between; these are strengthened by cross pieces of
timber, and the whole with the roof is covered close with the bark of
the Cypress tree. The dwelling stands near the middle of a square yard,
encompassed by a low bank, formed with the earth taken out of the yard,
which is always carefully swept. Their towns are clean, the inhabitants
being particular in laying their filth at a proper distance from their
dwellings, which undoubtedly contributes to the healthiness of their
habitations.

The town stands on the most pleasant situation that could be well
imagined or desired, in an inland country; upon a high swelling ridge
of sand hills, within three or four hundred yards of a large and
beautiful lake, the circular shore of which continually washes a sandy
beach, under a moderately high sloping bank, terminated on one side by
extensive forests, consisting of Orange groves, overtopped with grand
Magnolias, Palms, Poplar, Tilia, Live Oaks, and others already noticed;
and the opposite point of the crescent, gradually retires with hommocky
projecting points, indenting the grassy marshes, and lastly terminates
in infinite green plains and meadows, united with the skies and waters
of the lake. Such a natural landscape, such a rural scene, is not to be
imitated by the united ingenuity and labour of man. At present the
ground betwixt the town and the lake is adorned by an open grove of
very tall Pine trees, which standing at a considerable distance from
each other, admit a delightful prospect of the sparkling waters. The
lake abounds with various excellent fish and wild fowl; there are
incredible numbers of the latter, especially in the winter season, when
they arrive here from the north to winter.

The Indians abdicated the ancient Alachua town on the borders of the
savanna, and built here, calling the new town Cuscowilla: their reasons
for removing their habitation were on account of its unhealthiness,
occasioned, as they say, by the stench of the putrid fish and reptiles
in the summer and autumn, driven on shore by the alligators, and the
exhalations from marshes of the savanna, together with the persecutions
of the musquitoes.

They plant but little here about the town, only a small garden pot at
each habitation, consisting of a little Corn, Beans, Tobacco, Citruls,
&c. Their plantation, which supplies them with the chief of their
vegetable provisions, such as Zea, Convolvulus batata, Cucurbita
citrulus, Cuc. lagenaria, Cuc. pepo, Cuc. melopepo, Cuc. verrucosa,
Dolichos varieties, &c. lies on the rich prolific lands bordering on
the great Alachua savanna, about two miles distance. This plantation is
one common enclosure, and is worked and tended by the whole community;
yet every family has its particular part, according to its own
appointment, marked off when planted, and this portion receives the
common labour and assistance until ripe, when each family gathers and
deposits in its granary its own proper share, setting apart a small
gift or contribution for the public granary, which stands in the centre
of the plantation.

The youth, under the supervisal of some of their ancient people, are
daily stationed in their fields, who are continually whooping and
hallooing, to chase away crows, jackdaws, black-birds and such
predatory animals; and the lads are armed with bows and arrows, and
being trained up to it from their early youth, are sure at a mark, and
in the course of the day load themselves with squirrels, birds, &c. The
men in turn patrole the corn fields at night, to protect their
provisions from the depredations of night rovers, as bears, raccoons
and deer; the two former being immoderately fond of young corn, when
the grain is filled with a rich milk, as sweet and nourishing as cream;
and the deer are as fond of the Potatoe vines.

After the feast was over, we returned to our encampment on the great
savanna, towards the evening. Our companions whom we left at the camp,
were impatient for our return, having been out horse hunting in the
plains and groves during our absence. They soon left us, on a visit to
the town, having there some female friends, with whom they were anxious
to renew their acquaintance. The Siminole girls are by no means
destitute of charms to please the rougher sex: the white traders are
fully sensible how greatly it is to their advantage to gain their
affections and friendship in matters of trade and commerce; and if
their love and esteem for each other is sincere, and upon principles of
reciprocity, there are but few instances of their neglecting or
betraying the interests and views of their temporary husbands; they
labour and watch constantly to promote their private interests, and
detect and prevent any plots or evil designs which may threaten their
persons, or operate against their trade or business.

In the cool of the evening I embraced the opportunity of making a
solitary excursion round the adjacent lawns. Taking my fusee with me, I
soon came up to a little clump of shrubs, upon a swelling green knoll,
where I observed several large snakes entwined together. I stepped up
near them; they appeared to be innocent and peaceable, having no
inclination to strike at any thing, though I endeavoured to irritate
them, in order to discover their disposition; nor were they anxious to
escape from me. This snake is about four feet in length and as thick as
a man’s wrist; the upper side of a dirty ash colour; the squamæ large,
ridged and pointed; the belly or under side of a reddish dull flesh
colour; the tail part not long, but slender, like most other innocent
snakes. They prey on rats, land frogs, young rabbits, birds, &c. I left
them, continuing my progress and researches, delighted with the ample
prospects around and over the savanna.

Stopping again at a natural shrubbery, on turning my eyes to some
flowering shrubs, I observed near my feet, the surprising glass snake
(anguis fragilis). It seems as innocent and harmless as a worm. It is,
when full grown, two feet and an half in length, and three-fourths of
an inch in thickness; the abdomen or body part is remarkably short, and
it seems to be all tail, which, though long, gradually attenuates to
its extremity, yet not small and slender as in switch snakes. The
colour and texture of the whole animal is so exactly like bluish green
glass, which, together with its fragility, almost persuades a stranger
that it is in reality of that brittle substance: but it is only the
tail part that breaks off, which it does like glass, by a very gentle
stroke from a slender switch. Though it is quick and nimble in twisting
about, yet it cannot run fast from one, but quickly secrets itself at
the bottom of the grass or under leaves. It is a vulgar fable, that it
is able to repair itself after being broken into several pieces; which
pieces, common report says, by a power or faculty in the animal,
voluntarily approach each other, join and heal again. The sun now low,
shot the pointed shadows of the projecting promontories far on the
skirts of the lucid green plain: flocks of turkeys calling upon their
strolling associates, circumspectly marched onward to the groves and
high forests, their nocturnal retreats. Dewy eve now arrived. I turned
about and regained our encampment in good time.

The morning cool and pleasant, and the skies serene, we decamped,
pursuing our progress round the Alachua savanna. Three of our
companions separating from us, went ahead and we soon lost sight of
them: they again parting on different excursions, in quest of game and
in search of their horses, some entered the surrounding groves and
forests, others struck off into the green plains. My companion, the old
trader, and myself kept together, he being the most intelligent and
willing to oblige me. We coasted the green verge of the plain, under
the surrounding hills, occasionally penetrating and crossing the
projecting promontories, as the pathway or conveniency dictated, to
avoid the waters and mud which still continued deep and boggy near the
steep hills, in springy places; so that when we came to such places, we
found it convenient to ascend and coast round the sides of the hills,
or strike out a little into the savanna, to a moderately swelling
ridge, where the ground being dry, and a delightful green turf, was
pleasant travelling; but then we were under the necessity of fording
creeks or rivulets, which are the conduits or drains of the shallow
boggy ponds or morasses just under the hills. This range or chain of
morasses continues round the South and South-West border of the
savanna, and appeared to me to be fed or occasioned by the great wet
bay-gale or savanna Pine lands, which lie immediately back of the high
hilly forests on the great savanna, part of which we crossed in coming
from Cuscowilla; which bottom is a flat, level, hard sand, lying
between the sand ridge of Cuscowilla and these eminences of the great
savanna; and is a vast receptacle or reservoir of the rain waters,
which being defended from the active and powerful exhalations of the
meridian sun, by the shadow of the Pine trees, low shrubs and grass,
gradually filtering through the sand, drain through these hills, and
present themselves in innumerable little meandering rills, at the bases
of the shady heights fronting the savanna.

Our progress this day was extremely pleasant, over the green turf,
having in view numerous herds of cattle and deer, and squadrons of
horse, peaceably browzing on the tender, sweet grass, or strolling
through the cool fragrant groves on the surrounding heights.

Besides the continued Orange groves, these heights abound with Palms,
Magnolias, Red Bays, Liquidambar, and Fagus sylvatica of incredible
magnitude, their trunks imitating the shafts of vast columns: we
observed Cassine, Prunus, Vitis labrusca, Rhamnus volubilis, and
delightful groves of Æsculus pavia, Prunus Caroliniana, a most
beautiful evergreen, decorated with its racemes of sweet, white
blossoms.

Passing through a great extent of ancient Indian fields, now grown over
with forests of stately trees, Orange groves, and luxuriant herbage,
the old trader, my associate, informed me it was the ancient Alachua,
the capital of that famous and powerful tribe, who peopled the hills
surrounding the savanna, when, in days of old, they could assemble by
thousands at ball play and other juvenile diversions and athletic
exercises, over those, then happy, fields and green plains. And there
is no reason to doubt of his account being true, as almost every step
we take over those fertile heights, discovers remains and traces of
ancient human habitations and cultivation. It is the most elevated
eminence upon the savanna; and here the hills descend gradually to the
savanna, by a range of gentle, grassy banks. Arriving at a swelling
green knoll, at some distance in the plains, near the banks of a pond,
opposite the old Alachua town, the place appointed for our meeting
again together, it being near night, our associates soon after joined
us, where we lodged. Early next morning we continued our tour; one
division of our company directing its course across the plains to the
north coast: my old companion, with myself in company, continued our
former route, coasting the savanna W. and N. W.; and by agreement we
were all to meet again at night, at the E. end of the savanna.

We continued some miles crossing over, from promontory to promontory,
the most enchanting green coves and vistas, scolloping and indenting
the high coasts of the vast plain. Observing a company of wolves (lupus
niger) under a few trees, about a quarter of a mile from shore, we rode
up towards them; they observing our approach, sitting on their hinder
parts until we came nearly within shot of them, when they trotted off
towards the forests, but stopped again and looked at us, at about two
hundred yards distance: we then whooped, and made a feint to pursue
them; when they separated from each other, some stretching off into the
plains, and others seeking covert in the groves on shore. When we got
to the trees, we observed they had been feeding on the carcase of a
horse. The wolves of Florida are larger than a dog, and are perfectly
black, except the females, which have a white spot on the breast; but
they are not so large as the wolves of Canada and Pennsylvania, which
are of a yellowish brown colour. There were a number of vultures on the
trees over the carcase, who, as soon as the wolves ran off, immediately
settled down upon it; they were however held in restraint and
subordination by the bald eagle (falco leucocephalus.)

On our route near a long projected point of the coast, we observed a
large flock of turkeys: at our approach they hastened to the groves. We
soon gained the promontory. On the ascending hills were vestiges of an
ancient Indian town, now overshadowed with groves of the Orange, loaded
with both green and ripe fruit, and embellished with their fragrant
bloom, gratifying the taste, the sight, and the smell at the same
instant. Leaving this delightful retreat, we soon came to the verge of
the groves, when presented to view a vast verdant bay of the savanna.
We discovered a herd of deer feeding at a small distance; upon the
sight of us they ran off, taking shelter in the groves on the opposite
point or cape of this spacious meadow. My companions being old expert
hunters, quickly concerted a plan for their destruction. One of our
company immediately struck off, obliquely crossing the meadow for the
opposite groves, in order to intercept them, if they should continue
their course up the forest, to the main; and we crossed straight over
to the point, if possible to keep them in sight, and watch their
motions, knowing that they would make a stand thereabouts, before they
would attempt their last escape. On drawing near the point, we
slackened our pace, and cautiously entered the groves; when we beheld
them thoughtless and secure, flouncing in a sparkling pond, in a green
meadow or cove beyond the point; some were lying down on their sides in
the cool waters, whilst others were prancing like young kids; the young
bucks in playsome sport, with their sharp horns hooking and spurring
the others, urging them to splash the water.

I endeavoured to plead for their lives, but my old friend, though he
was a sensible, rational and good sort of man, would not yield to my
philosophy. He requested me to mind our horses, while he made his
approaches, cautiously gaining ground on them, from tree to tree, when
they all suddenly sprang up and herded together: a princely buck, who
headed the party, whistled and bounded off; his retinue followed; but
unfortunately for their chief, he led them with prodigious speed out
towards the savanna very near us, and when passing by, the lucky old
hunter fired and laid him prostrate upon the green turf, but a few
yards from us. His affrighted followers at the instant sprang off in
every direction, streaming away like meteors or phantoms, and we
quickly lost sight of them. He opened his body, took out the entrails,
and placed the carcase in the fork of a tree, casting his frock or
hunting shirt over to protect it from the vultures and crows, who
follow the hunter as regularly as his own shade.

Our companions soon arrived, we set forward again, enjoying the like
scenes we had already past; observed parties of Siminole horses
coursing over the plains, and frequently saw deer, turkeys, and wolves,
but they knew their safety here, keeping far enough out of our reach.
The wary, sharp-sighted crane, circumspectly observed our progress. We
saw a female of them sitting on her nest, and the male, her mate,
watchfully traversing backwards and forwards, at a small distance; they
suffered us to approach near them before they arose, when they spread
their wings, running and tipping the ground with their feet some time,
and then mounted aloft, soaring round and round over the nest. They sit
upon only two eggs at a time, which are very large, long and pointed at
one end, of a pale ash colour, powdered or speckled with brown. The
manner of forming their nests and sitting is very singular: choosing a
tussock and there forming a rude heap of dry grass, or such like
materials, near as high as their body is from the ground, when standing
upon their feet, on the summit of this they form the nest of fine soft
dry grass. When they cover their eggs to hatch them, they stand over
them, bearing their bodies and wings over the eggs.

We again came up to a long projecting point of the high forests, beyond
which opened to view an extensive grassy cove of the savanna, several
miles in circuit. We crossed straight over from this promontory to the
opposite coast, and on the way were constrained to wade a mile or more
through the water, though at a little distance from us it appeared as a
delightful meadow, the grass growing through the water, the middle of
which, however, when we came up, proved to be a large space of clear
water, almost deep enough to swim our horses; it being a large branch
of the main creek which drains the savanna. After getting through this
morass, we arrived on a delightful, level, green meadow, as usual,
which continued about a mile, when we reached the firm land; and then
gradually ascending, we alighted on a hard sandy beach, which exhibited
evident signs of being washed by the waves of the savanna, when in the
winter season it is all under water, and then presents the appearance
of a large lake. The coast here is much lower than the opposite side,
which we had left behind us, and rises from the meadows with a gradual
sloping ascent, covered scatteringly with low spreading Live Oaks,
short Palms, Zanthoxylon, Laurus Borbonia, Cassine, Sideroxylon,
Quercus nigra, Q. sinuata and others; all leaning from the bleak winds
that oppress them. About one hundred yards back from this beach, the
sand hills gradually rise, and the open pine forests appear. We coasted
a mile or two along the beach, then doubled a promontory of high
forests, and soon after came to a swift running brook of clear water,
rolling over gravel and white sand, which being brought along with it,
in its descent down the steeper sandy beach, formed an easy swelling
bank or bar. The waters spread greatly at this place, exhibiting a
shallow glittering sheet of clear water, but just sufficient
continually to cover the clear gravelly bed, and seemed to be sunk a
little below the common surface of the beach. This stream, however, is
soon separated into a number of rivulets, by small sandy and gravelly
ridges, and the waters are finally stolen away from the sight, by a
charming green meadow, but again secretly uniting under the tall grass,
form a little creek, meandering through the turfy plain, marking its
course by reeds and rushes, which spring up from its banks, joining the
main creek that runs through the savanna, and at length delivers the
water into the Great Sink. Proceeding about a mile farther, we came up
to and crossed another brook, larger than the former, which exhibited
the like delightful appearance. We next passed over a level green lawn,
a cove of the savanna, and arrived at a hilly grove. We alighted in a
pleasant vista, turning our horses to graze while we amused ourselves
with exploring the borders of the Great Sink. In this place a group of
rocky hills almost surrounds a large bason, which is the general
receptacle of the water, draining from every part of the vast savanna
by lateral conduits, winding about, and one after another joining the
main creek or general conductor, which at length delivers them into
this sink; where they descend by slow degrees, through rocky caverns,
into the bowels of the earth, whence they are carried by secret
subterraneous channels into other receptacles and basons.

We ascended a collection of eminences, covered with dark groves, which
is one point of the crescent that partly encircles the sink or bason,