generally a dead, heavy substance, and as the animal steps low or high,
the pack does the same. Much, however, might be done by care in packing,
to prevent injury to the withers and bruising of the back-bone. When the
withers begin to swell and inflammation sets in, or a tumor begins to
form, the whole may be driven away and the fistula scattered or avoided
by frequent or almost constant applications of cold water--the same as
is recommended in poll-evil. But if, in despite of this, the swelling
should continue or become larger, warm fomentations, poultices, and
stimulating embrocations should be applied, in order to bring the
protuberance to its full formation as soon as possible. When full, a
seton should be passed, by a skillful hand, from the top to the bottom
of the tumor, so that all the pus may have free access of escape. The
incision should be kept free until all the matter has escaped and the
wound shows signs of healing. The after treatment must be similar to
that recommended in the case of poll-evil. The above treatment, if
properly administered, will in nearly all cases of _fistula_ effect a
cure.

COLLAR-GALLS.

Sore necks, saddle-galls, and stilfasts, are a species of injury and
sore, which are in many cases very difficult of cure, especially
saddle-galls on mules that have to be ridden every day. One of the best
remedies for saddle gall is to heighten the saddle up as much as
possible, and bathe the back with cold water as often as an opportunity
affords. In many cases this will drive the fever away and scatter the
trouble that is about to take place. This, however, does not always
scatter, for the trouble will often continue, a root forming in the
center of what we call the saddle-gall. The edges of this will be clear,
and the stilfast hold only by the root. I have had many cases of this
kind occur with the mule, both on his back and neck, mostly caused on
the latter part by the collar being too loose. And I have found but one
way to effectually cure them. Some persons advise cutting, which I think
is too tedious and painful to the animal. My advice is to take a pair of
pincers, or forceps of any kind, and pull it out. This done, bathe
frequently with cold water, and keep the collar or saddle as much free
of the sore as possible. This will do more towards relieving the animal
and healing the injury than all the medicine you can give. A little
soothing oil, or grease free from salt, may be rubbed lightly on the
parts as they begin to heal. This is a very simple but effective remedy.

THRUSH.

This is another trouble with which the mule is afflicted. Cut away the
parts of the frog that seem to be destroyed, clean the parts well with
castile-soap, and apply muriatic acid. If you have not this at hand, a
little tar mixed with salt, and placed on oakum or tow, and applied,
will do nearly as well. Apply this every day, keeping the parts well
dressed, and the feet according to directions in shoeing, and the
trouble will soon disappear.

CHEST FOUNDERS.

Mules are not subject to this disease. Some persons assert that they
are, but it is a mistake. These persons mistake for founder in the chest
what is nothing more than a case of contraction of the feet. I have
repeatedly seen veterinary surgeons connected with the army, on being
asked what was the trouble with a mule, look wise, and declare the
complaint chest founder, swelling of the shoulders, &c. I was inclined
to put some faith in the wisdom of these gentlemen, until Doctor Braley,
chief veterinary surgeon of the department of Washington, produced the
most convincing proofs that it was almost an impossibility for these
animals to become injured in the shoulder. When mules become sore in
front, look well to their feet, and in nine cases out of ten, you will
find the cause of the trouble there. In very many cases a good practical
shoer can remove the trouble by proper paring and shoeing.

BLEEDING.

It was always a subject of inquiry with me, who originated the system of
bleeding; and why it was that all kinds of doctors and physicians
persist in taking the stream of life itself from the system in order to
preserve life. In the case of General Washington, which I copy from the
_Independent Chronicle_ of Boston, January 6, 1800, the editor, using
"James Craik, physician, and Elisha C. Dick, physician," as authority,
states that a bleeder was procured in the neighborhood, who took from
the General's arm from twelve to fourteen ounces of blood, in the
morning; and in the afternoon of the same day was bled copiously twice.
More than that, it was agreed upon by these same enlightened doctors, to
try the result of another blood-letting, by which thirty two ounces more
was drawn. And, wonderful as it may seem to the intelligent mind at this
day, they state that all this was done without the slightest alleviation
of the disease. The world has become more wise now, and experience has
shown how ridiculous this system of bleeding was. What is true in regard
to the human system is also true in regard to the animal. There are some
extreme cases in which I have no doubt moderate bleeding might render
relief. But these cases are so few that it should only be suffered to be
done by an experienced, careful, and skillful person. My advice is,
avoid it in all cases where you can.

COLIC.

The mule is quite subject to this complaint. It is what is commonly
known as belly-ache. Over doses of cold water will produce it. There is
nothing, however, so likely to produce it in the mule as changes of
grain.

Musty corn will also produce it, and should never be given to animals. I
recollect, in 1856, when I was in New Mexico, at Fort Union, we had
several mules die from eating what is termed Spanish or Mexican corn, a
small blue and purplish grain. It was exceedingly hard and flinty, and,
in fact, more like buckshot than grain. We fed about four quarts of this
to the mule, at the first feed. The result was, they swelled up, began
to pant, look round at their sides, sweat above the eyes and at the
flanks. Then they commenced to roll, spring up suddenly, lie down again,
roll and try to lie on their backs. Then they would spring up, and after
standing a few seconds, fall down, and groan, and pant. At length they
would resign themselves to what they apparently knew to be their fate,
and die. And yet, singular as it may seem, the animal could be
accustomed to this grain by judicious feeding at first.

We did not know at that time what to give the animal to relieve or cure
him; and the Government lost hundreds of valuable animals through our
want of knowledge. Whenever these violent cases appear, get some common
soap, make a strong suds and drench the mule with it. I have found in
every case where I used it that the mule got well. It is the alkali in
the soap that neutralizes the gases. There is another good receipt, and
it is generally to be found in camp. Take two ounces of saleratus, put
it into a pint of water, shake well, and then drench with the same.
Above all things, keep whisky and other stimulants away, as they only
serve to aggravate the disease.

PHYSICKING.

This is another of those imaginary cures resorted to by persons having
charge of mules. Very many of these persons honestly believe that it is
necessary to clean the animal out every spring with large doses of
poisonous and other truck. This, they say, ought to be given to loosen
the hide, soften the hair, &c. In my opinion it does very little good.
If his dung gets dry, and his hair hard and crispy, give him bran mashes
mixed with his grain, and a teaspoonful of salt at each feed. If there
is grass, let him graze a few hours every day. This will do more towards
softening his coat and loosening his bowels than any thing else. When
real disease makes its appearance, it is time to use medicines; but they
should be applied by some one who thoroughly understands them.

STRINGHALT.

This sometimes occurs in the mule. It is a sudden, nervous, quick jerk
of either or both of the hind legs. In the mule it frequently shows but
little after being worked an hour or so. It is what I regard as
unsoundness, and a mule badly affected with it is generally of but
little use. It is often the result of strains, caused by backing,
pulling and twisting, and heavy falls. You can detect it in its
slightest form by turning the animal short around to the right or to the
left. Turn him in the track he stands in, as near as possible, and then
back him. If he has it, one of these three ways will develop its
symptoms. There are a great many opinions as to the soundness or
unsoundness of an animal afflicted with this complaint. If I had now a
good animal afflicted with it, the pain caused to my feelings by looking
at it would be a serious drawback.

CRAMP.

I have now under my charge several mules that are subject to this
complaint. It does not really injure them for service, but it is very
disagreeable to those having them in charge. It frequently requires from
half an hour to two hours to get them rubbed so as the blood gets to its
proper circulation, and to get them to walk without dragging their legs.
In cases where they are attacked violently, they will appear to lose all
use of their legs. I have known cases when a sudden stroke with a light
piece of board, so as to cause a surprise, would drive it away. In other
cases sudden application of the whip would have the same effect.

SPAVIN.

It is generally believed that the mule does not inherit this disease.
But this is not altogether true. Small, compact mules, bred after the
jack, are indeed not subject to it. On the contrary, large mules, bred
from large, coarse mares, are very frequently afflicted with it. The
author has under his charge at the present time quite a number of those
kind of mules, in which this disease is visible. At times, when worked
hard, they are sore and lame. The only thing to be recommended in this
case is careful treatment, and as much rest at intervals as it is
possible to give them. Hand rubbing and application of stimulant
liniments, or tincture of arnica, is about all that can be done. The old
method of firing and blistering only puts the animal to torture and the
owner to expense. A cure can never be effected through it, and therefore
should never be tried.

RINGBONE.

These appear on the same kind of large, bony mules as referred to in
cases of spavin, and are incurable. They can, however, be relieved by
the same process as recommended in spavin. Relief can also be afforded
by letting the heels of the affected feet grow down to considerable
length, or shoeing with a high-heeled shoe, and thus taking the weight
or strain off the injured parts. The only way to make the best use or an
animal afflicted with this disease, is to abandon experiments to effect
a cure, as they will only be attended with expense and disappointment.

MANGE.

Mules are subject to this disease when kept in large numbers, as in the
army. This is peculiarly a cuticle disease, like the itch in the human
system, and yields to the same course of treatment. A mixture of sulphur
and hog's lard, one pint of the latter to two of the former. Rub the
animal all over, then cover with a blanket. After standing two days,
wash him clean with soft-soap and water. After this process has been
gone through, keep the animal blanketed for a few days, as he will be
liable to take cold. Feed with bran mashes, plenty of common salt, and
water. This will relieve the bowels all that is necessary, and can
scarcely fail of effecting a cure. Another method, but not so certain in
its effect, is to make a decoction of tobacco, say about one pound of
the stems to two gallons of water, boiled until the strength is
extracted from the weed, and when cool enough, bathe the mule well with
it from head to foot, let him dry off, and do not curry him for a day or
two. Then curry him well, and if the itching appear again, repeat the
bathing two or three times, and it will produce a cure. The same
treatment will apply in case of lice, which frequently occurs where
mules are kept in large numbers. Mercury should never be used in any
form, internally or externally, on an animal so much exposed as the
mule.

GREASE-HEEL.

Clean the parts well with castile-soap and warm water. As soon as you
have discovered the disease, stop wetting the legs, as that only
aggravates it, and use ointment made from the following substances:
Powdered charcoal, two ounces; lard or tallow, four ounces; sulphur, two
ounces. Mix them well together, then rub the ointment in well with your
hand on the affected parts. If the above is not at hand, get gunpowder,
some lard or tallow, in equal parts, and apply in the same manner. If
the animal be poor, and his system need toning up, give him plenty of
nourishing food, with bran mash mixed plentifully with the grain. Add a
teaspoonful of salt two or three times a day, as it will aid in keeping
the bowels open. If the stable bottoms, or floors, or yards are filthy,
see that they are properly cleaned, as filthiness is one of the causes
of this disease. The same treatment will apply to scratches, as they are
the same disease in a different form.

To avoid scratches and grease-heel during the winter, or indeed at any
other season, the hair on the mule's heels should never be cut. Nor
should the mud, in winter season, be washed off, but allowed to dry on
the animal's legs, and then rubbed off with hay or straw. This washing,
and cutting the hair off the legs, leave them without any protection,
and is, in many cases, the cause of grease-heel and scratches.

SHOES, SHOEING, AND THE FOOT.

The foot, its diseases, and how to shoe it properly, is a subject much
discussed among horsemen. Nearly every farrier and blacksmith has a way
of his own for curing diseased feet, and shoeing. No matter how absurd
it may be, he will insist that it has merits superior to all others, and
it would be next to impossible to convince him of his error. Skillful
veterinarians now understand perfectly all the diseases peculiar to the
foot, and the means of effecting a cure. They understand, also, what
sort of shoe is needed for the feet of different animals. Latterly
number of shoes have been invented and patented, all professing to be
exactly what is wanted to relieve and cure diseased feet of all kinds.
One man has a shoe he calls "_concave_," and says it will cure
contraction, corns, thrush, quarter-crack, toe-crack, &c., &c. But when
you come to examine it closely, you will find it nothing more than a
nicely dressed piece of iron, made almost in the shape of a half moon.
After a fair trial, however, it will be found of no more virtue in
curing diseases or relieving the animal than the ordinary shoe used by a
country smithy. Another inventive genius springs up and asserts that he
has discovered a shoe that will cure all sorts of diseased feet; and
brings at least a bushel basket full of letters from persons he declares
to be interested in the horse, confirming what he has said of the
virtues of his shoe. But a short trial of this wonderful shoe only goes
to show how little these persons understand the whole subject, and how
easy a matter it is to procure letters recommending what they have
invented.

Another has a "specific method" for shoeing, which is to cut away the
toe right in the center of the foot, cut away the bars on the inside of
the foot, cut and clean away all around on the inside of the hoof, then
to let the animal stand on a board floor, so that his feet would be in
the position a saucer would represent with one piece broken out at the
front and two at the back. This I consider the most inhuman method in
the art of shoeing. Turn this saucer upside down and see how little
pressure it would bear, and you will have some idea of the cruelty of
applying this "specific method." Sometimes bar-shoes and other
contrivances are used, to keep the inside of the foot from coming down.
But why do this? Why not get at once a shoe adapted to the spreading of
the foot. Tyrell's shoe for this purpose is the best I have yet seen. We
have used it in the Government service for two years, and experience has
taught me that it has advantages that ought not to be overlooked. But
even this shoe may be used to disadvantage by ignorant hands. Indeed, in
the hands of a blacksmith who prefers "his own way," some kinds of feet
may be just as badly injured by it as others are benefited. The United
States Army affords the largest field for gaining practical knowledge
concerning the diseases, especially of the feet, with which horses and
mules are afflicted. During the late war, when so little care was given
to animals in the field, when they were injured in every conceivable
manner, and by all sorts of accidents, the veterinary found a field for
study such as has never been opened before.

Experience has taught me, that common sense is one of the most essential
things in the treatment of a horse's foot. You must remember that
horses' feet differ as well as men's, and require different treatment,
especially in shoeing. You must shoe the foot according to its
peculiarity and demands, not according to any specific "system of shoe."
Give the ground surface a level bearing, let the frog come to the
ground, and the weight of the mule rest on the frog as much as any other
part of the foot. If it project beyond the shoe, so much the better.
That is what it was made for, and to catch the weight on an elastic
principle. Never, under any circumstances, cut it away. Put two nails in
the shoe on each side, and both forward of the quarters, and one in the
toe, directly in front of the foot. Let those on the sides be an inch
apart, then you will be sure not to cut and tear the foot. Let the nails
and nail-holes be small, for they will then aid in saving the foot. It
will still further aid in saving it by letting the nails run well up
into the hoof, for that keeps the shoe steadier on the foot. The hoof is
just as thick to within an inch of the top, and is generally sounder,
and of a better substance, than it is at the bottom. Keep the first
reason for shoeing apparent in your mind always--that you only shoe your
mule because his feet will not stand the roads without it. And whenever
you can, shoe him with a shoe exactly the shape of his foot. Some
blacksmiths will insist on a shoe, and then cutting and shaping the foot
to it. The first or central surface of the hoof, made hard by the
animal's own peculiar way of traveling, indicates the manner in which he
should be shod. All the art in the world cannot improve this, for it is
the model prepared by nature. Let the shoes be as light as possible, and
without calks if it can be afforded, as the mule always travels unsteady
on them. The Goodenough shoe is far superior to the old calked shoe, and
will answer every purpose where holding is necessary. It is also good in
mountainous countries, and there is no danger of the animal calking
himself with it. I have carefully observed the different effect of
shoes, while with troops on the march. I accompanied the Seventh
Infantry, in 1858, in its march to Cedar Valley, in Utah, a distance of
fourteen hundred miles, and noticed that scarcely a man who wore
regulation shoes had a blister on his feet, while the civilians, who did
not, were continually falling out, and dropping to the rear, from the
effects of narrow and improper shoes and boots. The same is the case
with the animal. The foot must have something flat and broad to bear on.
The first care of those having charge of mules, should be to see that
their feet are kept in as near a natural state as possible. Then, if all
the laws of nature be observed, and strictly obeyed, the animal's feet
will last as long, and be as sound in his domestic state as he would be
in a state of nature.

The most ordinary observer will soon find that the outer portion or
covering of the mule's foot possesses very little animal life, and has
no sensibility, like the hair or covering of the body. Indeed, the foot
of the horse and mule is a dense block of horn, and must therefore be
influenced and governed by certain chemical laws, which control the
elements that come in contact with it. Hence it was that the feet of
these animals was made to bear on the hard ground, and to be wet
naturally every time the horse drank. Drought and heat will contract and
make hard and brittle the substance of which the feet is composed; while
on the other hand cooling and moisture will expand it, and render it
pliable and soft. Nature has provided everything necessary to preserve
and protect this foot, while the animal is in a natural state; but when
brought into domestic use, it requires the good sense of man, whose
servant he is, to artificially employ those means which nature has
provided, to keep it perfectly healthy.

When, then, the foot is in a healthy state, wet it at least twice a day;
and do not be content with merely throwing cold water on the outside,
for the foot takes in very little if any moisture through the wall. In
short, it absorbs moisture most through the frog and sole, particularly
in the region where the sole joins the wall. This, if covered by a tight
shoe, closes the medium, and prevents the proper supply. Horses that are
shod should be allowed to stand in moist places as much as possible. Use
clay or loam floors, especially if the horse has to stand much of his
time. Stone or brick is the next best, as the foot of the animal will
absorb moisture from either of these. Dry pine planks are the very
worst, because they attract moisture from the horse's foot. Where
animals have to stand idle much of the time, keep their feet well
stuffed with cow manure at night. That is the best and cheapest
preservative of the feet that you can use.

ADVICE TO BLACKSMITHS.

Let me enjoin you, for humanity's sake, that when you first undertake to
shoe a young animal, you will not forget the value of kind treatment.
Keep its head turned away from the glaring fire, the clinking anvil,
&c., &c. Let the man whom he has been accustomed to, the groom or owner,
stand at his head, and talk to him kindly. When you approach him for the
first time, let it be without those implements you are to use in his
shoeing. Speak to him gently, then take up his foot. If he refuse to let
you do this, let the person having him in charge do it. A young animal
will allow this with a person he is accustomed to, when he will repel a
stranger. By treating him kindly you can make him understand what is
wanted; by abusing him you will only frighten him into obstinacy. When
you have got the animal under perfect subjection, examine the foot
carefully, and you will find the heels, at the back part of the frog,
entirely free from that member, which is soft and spongy. When the foot
is down, resting on the ground, grasp the heels in your strong hand,
press them inwards towards the frog, and you will immediately find that
they will yield. You will then see that what yields so easily to the
mere pressure of the hand will expand and spread out when the weight of
the body is thrown on it. This should give you an idea of what you have
to do in shoeing that foot, and your practical knowledge should stand
you well in an argument with any of those "learned professors," who
declare the foot of the mule does not expand or contract. In truth it is
one of its necessary conditions. After being a long time badly shod,
nearly or all of this necessary principle of the foot will be lost. You
should therefore study to preserve it. And here let me give you what
little aid experience has enabled me to do. You will observe the ground
surface of the foot, no matter how high the arch may be, to be at least
half an inch wide, and sometimes more than an inch, with the heels
spread out at the outside quarter. Do not cut away this important brace.
It is as necessary to the heel of the animal, to guard him against
lateral motion, on which the whole of the above structure depends, as
the toes are to the human being. Curve the outside of the shoe nearly to
fit the foot, and you will find the inside heel a little straighter,
especially if the animal be narrow-breasted, and the feet stand close
together. Nature has provided this safeguard to prevent its striking the
opposite leg. After the shoe is prepared to fit the foot, as I have
before described, rasp the bottom level--it will be found nearly so. Do
not put a knife to the sole or the frog. The sole of the foot, remember,
is its life, and the frog its defender. In punching the shoe, two
nail-holes on a side, on a foot like this, are sufficient to hold on a
shoe. Three may be used, if set in their proper places, without injury
to the foot. Practice will teach you that any more nailing than this is
unnecessary. I have used two nails on a side on an animal with not the
best of a foot, and very high action, and he has worn them entirely out
without throwing either of them off. Previous to punching the shoe,
observe the grain of the foot. It will be seen that the fibres of the
hoof run from the top of the foot, or coronary border, towards the toe,
in most feet, at an angle of about forty-five degrees. It will be plain,
then, that if the nails are driven with the grain of the horn, they will
drive much easier, and hold better, and be less liable to cut and crack
the fibers.

Another benefit can be derived from this process of nailing. When the
foot comes to the ground, the nails act as a brace to keep the foot from
slipping forward off the shoe. This renders that very ingenious foot
destroyer, the toe-clip, unnecessary. Then, in punching the shoe, hold
the top of the pritchell toward the heel of the shoe, so as to get the
hole in the shoe on an angle with the grain of the hoof. Punch the holes
large enough, so that the nails will not bind in the shoe, nor require
unnecessary hammering or bruising of the foot to get them up to their
proper place. Prepare the nails well, point them thin and narrow; and,
as I have said before, use as small a nail as possible.

When you proceed to nail on the shoe, take a slight hold at the bottom,
so as to be sure that the nail starts in the wall of the foot instead of
the sole. Let it come out as high up as possible. You need not be afraid
of pricking with nails set in this way, as the wall of the foot is as
thick, until you get within half an inch of the top, as it is where you
set the nail. Nails driven in this way injure the feet less, hold on
longer, and are stronger than when driven in any other way. If you have
any doubt of this, test it in this manner: when you take off an old shoe
to set a new one, and cut the clinches (which should be done in all
cases), you will find the old nail and the clinches not started up; and
in drawing the nail out you will also find the foot not slipped or
cracked; and that the horn binds the nail until it is entirely drawn
out. Indeed, I have known the hole to almost close as the nail left it.

Set the two front nails well towards the toe, so as not to be more than
two inches apart when measured across the bottom of the foot. Let the
next two divide the distance from that to the heel, so as to leave from
two to two and a half inches free of nails, as the form of the foot may
allow. Lastly, before nailing on the shoe, and while it is cold on the
anvil, strike the surface that comes next to the foot on the outside, a
few blows with the hammer, right across the heels, and see also that the
outside of the heels is a shade lowest, so that the animal in throwing
his weight upon them will spread out, and not pinch in his feet.