other matters that information was required on by the Government.  On my
arrival I reported myself to the king, where I found him on the 30th of
December, at his country village, Umkano, or, as some term it, Umganine,
a pretty situation with only a few huts beside the king's, that numbered
eight or ten, as before stated in a former part of this chapter.

CHAPTER TWENTY THREE.

MASHONA AND MATABELELAND CONTINUED, WITH NOTES ON THE COUNTRY AND
PEOPLE, WHICH IS WITHIN THE ZAMBESE BASIN.

When I arrived at Umkano kraal on the 30th December, it was Sunday; when
I had drawn up my waggon in a nice snug nook to be away from the native
kraals, and outspanned, it was 4 p.m.  Dinner was soon prepared and
despatched, and then I sent my two warrior guards to the king to
announce my arrival, and that I would call on his majesty to-morrow.  A
short distance from my camp, four waggons were drawn up abreast, no one
to be seen, except a white lady sitting on the waggon-box of one of
them.  I therefore lost no time in going over, and found it was Mrs.
Sykes, wife of the Rev.  Mr. Sykes of Inyatine, who was then holding
service in an adjoining hut to a few natives.  The other waggons
belonged to the Rev.  Mr. Coillard of the French Missionary Society, in
Basutoland, who had come up to Matabeleland to endeavour to found a few
native mission stations; and instead of coming up by the main transport
road and reporting himself in the usual way, he passed through the
Transvaal, crossed the Limpopo at Zoutpans drift, and entered the
Mashona country as it were by the back door, and as he travelled north,
he was seen to pick a few flowers, which was reported to Lo-Bengulu,
when he sent immediately eighty of his warriors to bring him and his
belongings prisoners to this station, and he arrived the day previous to
my arrival.  This brought Mr. Sykes over from Inyatine to intercede and
get him released, as also his waggons, wife, and wife's sister, who were
accompanying him; a rather dangerous journey for two ladies, when the
husband had never been in before and knew not the country, to go
exploring unknown regions, and it was a great surprise to us all that
they came out safe.  When gaining all this information from Mrs. Sykes,
the gentleman himself, his wife and sister came strolling in from a
ramble, when we all made ourselves comfortable round Mrs. Sykes' waggon
to enjoy a cup of tea, the most refreshing drink in a climate like this,
thermometer standing at 92 degrees at six o'clock in the evening, and a
cloudless sky.  Mr. Sykes soon joined us after the conclusion of his
service.  When Europeans meet in a region so remote as this from
civilisation, surrounded by savage tribes, naked as when they were born,
and as wild as nature can make them, knowing no law but that of their
king, who rules at the point of his assagai, we at once become brothers
and sisters, and friendship is then and there established; so it was
with us, chatting and talking as if we had been old and dear friends.
It is true, I had known Mr. and Mrs. Sykes a long time, when I first met
them in 1867, and afterwards.  Having spent a pleasant evening listening
to Mr. Coillard's account of his adventures through that wild region, I
returned to waggon and to bed at 10 p.m.; a calm hot night, flies by the
million, mosquitoes by the thousand round my waggon.  At all Kaffir
stations it is the same; the cattle kraals breed the flies, and the
water the mosquitoes.  At the present time the water is so full of them,
that it has to be strained through a piece of muslin before being used.

Mr. Fairbourne from Gubuluwayo came in the evening to tell me that
Lo-Bengulu intends leaving this station for Gubuluwayo to-morrow, as his
great military dance comes off on Tuesday.  He informed us all that the
party at Ujiji had been laid up with the fever, except the Rev.  Mr.
Price, and some had died.  Most of them we all knew.  Lo-Bengulu and his
Indunas will not allow any white men in the country through which Mr.
Coillard proposed going, as they state, "If we permit them to reside
there, where are we, the Matabele people, to go to, to get cattle and
slaves?"--in other words, to rob the Mashona people of their property
and cattle; if not peaceable, to slaughter them, take the young children
as slaves, and bring them up to incorporate them in the army.

Early on Monday morning, Mr. Phillips, old John Viljuen, and Mr. Frewen
rode over.  The latter was going further in, and had proceeded some
distance, when he was obliged to turn and come on to this station, and
left this morning on his way down country, my two guards returning to
Makobis with him.

Height of this station by aneroid barometer, 4970 feet above sea-level.
The country round is well-wooded, but the trees are small. 20 degrees 25
minutes South latitude, 28 degrees 35 minutes East longitude.

I went to call on Lo-Bengulu; he was sitting on his waggon-box naked,
all but his cat-tail kilt.  After shaking hands and passing the
compliments of the day, I told him, as he expected one of his regiments
over to escort him to the military kraal, I would defer my talk with him
until after the grand dance.  He asked me to follow him when he started;
that meant, I was to fall in with the other waggons of the white people
composing the cavalcade.

We started about 11 a.m., Mr. Sykes taking the lead behind the king's
waggons, which were surrounded by about twenty Zulu women and girls.
One waggon held his sister Nina and the Kaffir beer; next followed Mr.
Coillard and his waggons, then my waggon, Phillips, Viljuen, and other
white men on horseback, and about a hundred of the king's body guard,
about as unique a turn-out as one could desire to see--an African king
on his travels--it would have graced Regent street.

After a seven-mile trek, we outspanned for the day at a small kraal, on
the road to the military camp--as a messenger had been sent to say five
regiments would be sent out the next morning, inviting the king home,
being the usual custom on the king returning after a long absence;
therefore we selected a suitable place to remain the night, away from
the crowd of blacks, and made ourselves comfortable the remainder of the
day.

_Tuesday, January 1st_, 1878.--A lovely bright morning.  Thermometer at
9 a.m., 87 degrees.  After breakfast the Matabele regiments came over,
some four hundred, dressed in their war dress, black ostrich feathers
for head-dress, a tippet and epaulets of the same, tigers'-tails in
profusion round the loins and hanging down to the ground behind, with
anklets of the shell of a fruit the size of an egg, with stones inside
to make them jingle as they move their feet; armed with shield and
several assagais.  So they came on, singing their war songs, jumping up,
striking their shields.  With their black skins, white teeth, and the
white part of their eyes, they were fit representations of imps issuing
from a certain place known to the wicked.  On arriving at the king's
waggon, where the king was sitting on his waggon-box, they went through
a kind of dance, singing the king's praise, Lo-Bengulu quietly looking
on.  The king's wives, between thirty and forty, dressed only in black
kilts down below the knee, open in front; the kilt is made of black
sheep or goat-skin; some, I think, are made of otter-skin; others had
mantles of the same; several had their heads shaved; many cut quite
close.  After the dance, we all inspanned, and followed the king's
waggons in the same order as yesterday; until we arrived at Gubuluwayo,
the military kraal.  I took my waggon and outspanned alongside of Mr
Wood's waggons, on the opposite rise to the kraal, to be free from the
people, and have some peace; and remained the day.  All round the kraal
is open, every available piece of ground is under the hoe.

Wednesday, I went in the morning, with Mr. and Mrs. Sykes, Mr. and Mrs.
Coillard and her sister, who seems to be about twenty, to the king's
kraal, to see the soldiers reviewed by the king, in the open space
between the town huts and the king's enclosure.  It was a novel sight,
and one seen in no other part of the world.  The regiments formed an
immense circle, eight and ten deep; there appeared to be about 4000, all
dressed in their war dress similar to those of yesterday.  Each regiment
contains about sixty, and is distinguished by different coloured
shields.  When they sing their war songs in their deep bass voices,
keeping time with stamping on the ground with their right and then left
foot, striking their shields with their assagais, the effect is grand--
the earth appears to tremble.  Occasionally, one or two come out into
the centre of the circle, and go through the performance of fighting the
enemy, advancing, retreating, then in close combat, striking out with
their assagai in imitation of stabbing his foe, and making as many stabs
as he has killed victims; others come out when these retire, and this
performance goes on during the war songs.  It is considered a great feat
if a warrior can jump high in the air, and strike his shield several
times with both ends of his short stabbing assagai, before touching the
ground and knocking his knees and feet together.  Then come the king's
wives, old and young, and all the young royal girls, wearing a black
goat-skin kilt down to the knee, dressed out with yellow handkerchiefs,
the royal colour, profusion of many-coloured beads, many-coloured
ribbons, long sashes of broad yellow ribbon, all entering the arena at
the same time.  Advancing to the centre with slow measured steps, they
raise first the left then the right leg, and put it down, keeping
excellent time, chanting native songs, the warriors remaining perfectly
still and silent, they then turn and retire in the same way; all this
time the king is not seen, he is in the cattle kraal with his
medicine-man, examining the intestines of two bullocks that have been
killed for that purpose.  After a time, a clear road is made, and large
baskets filled with the intestines are brought out from the kraal: it is
death for a native to touch, it; or be near when it is passed away to
the king's enclosure.  Then comes out the chief medicine-man, enveloped
in long ox-tails that completely conceal his tall figure, reaching to
the ground, with a little jockey cap on having fur in front and a long
crane's feather, when he marches up and down in the centre of the arena,
and in front of where the king is known to be, singing his praise.
After a time, the king makes his appearance, advancing from the kraal
with a towering head-dress of black ostrich feathers, an immense cape of
the same, a kilt of cats'-tails, with an assagai poised in his right
hand, advancing slowly in a stooping position; his fat sister Nina,
dressed out with a long kilt half-way down the leg, any number of yellow
handkerchiefs over her shoulders, and gold chains hanging down in front
and behind, with the feathers from the tail of the blue jay stuck into
her woolly hair, and a knobkerry in her hand, also advances beside the
king, until they both reach the centre of the arena.  The warriors
singing their war songs, stamping their feet to keep time, rattling
their shields, the scene becomes quite exciting.  Poor Nina becomes
exhausted, has to kneel on the ground several times, supporting her body
with her hands, also on the ground, and looks anything but an elegant
figure.  The five royal daughters, whose ages average from sixteen to
six, advance again, and chant a native tune; then the king calls for
silence; order is given that each regiment is to march out on to the
open plain and have a sham fight, which lasts an hour, each army
advancing, retreating, and fighting.  They then return to the enclosure
and form themselves in line, when forty black bullocks are brought in
for the young braves to slaughter, by stabbing them behind the shoulder
so that the skin should not be injured to make shields; some become
maddened by the smell of blood, break loose and escape into the open
country, the young braves following, and a regular race and uproar
follows, creating quite a sensation; and when the night has come, great
feasting takes place, and the sports of the day are at an end, and we
return to our waggon, wondering what the people in England would think
of such a sight of savage grandeur, as was never seen out of Africa.
The young Intombies (girls) are all excitement to see their sweethearts
so brave.  These Zulu maids are most of them good-looking, with teeth as
white as snow, well-made in every limb, and graceful in their movements,
very scantily dressed, a slight fringe in front being their only
covering, but it is the fashion of the country.  For several days these
dances go on; those who have paid their respects to the king retire to
their distant kraals, and fresh regiments arrive to go through the same
performance.  The English who may be at the station are allowed to be
present, but they must keep out of the way, not to be mixed up with the
troops, but they can take up any position they like, to have a good view
of the proceedings.

Thursday, a lovely day.  Went up again to see the review with Mr. and
Mrs. Sykes and the Coillards; found the king sitting on a chair in a
bell-tent alone, facing the troops, who were in a circle as yesterday;
he was naked with the exception of the tailed kilt.  A few braves from
his favourite regiment composed his bodyguard; the chief Indunas were
with their respective regiments of which they held command; the medicine
doctor, clothed in a tiger-skin kaross and a large fur cap with ears of
the same, marched up and down before the tent, proclaiming to the
warriors the greatness of the king.  The English ladies were invited
into the tent, and stood beside and behind this dreaded monarch of this
dreaded nation, for all other native tribes fear him.  The military
performance was similar to that of yesterday; rain came on and we
returned to our waggons.

Ironstone and iron-conglomerate are plentiful over this part of the
country; blue metamorphic rocks crop up between slate shale and quartz,
similar to that of the Tati gold-fields, in all directions.  Fine
gold-dust is found in the rivers to the north, but no one is allowed to
prospect.  There are at the present time thirty traders at this station,
and many hunters both English and Boers are in the hunting-field, who
must obtain permission from the king, and pay a licence in the form of a
gun, horse, or any other article the king may accept.  Several of the
Boers have been abusing this privilege, which has caused the king to be
very severe on the white man going in; some also have gone in under a
shooting licence, and have been found prospecting for gold.  This has
offended Lo-Bengulu with the English, and makes him suspicious of all
who visit his country.  He is naturally partial to the English, and his
sister Nina is their champion if any get into trouble; many have been
robbed up-country lately by the natives; amongst the number are Byles,
Kirton, Scott, Webster, Phillips, Jacobs, and many others.

Friday.  I saw the Rev.  Mr. Sykes, showed him my official letter, and
went with him to the king to ask permission to pass through his country
to the eastern boundary.  He was sitting on an old champagne box,
leaning back against the cattle kraal fence in his usual undress;
immensely fat and tall, he looks every inch an African king.  He heard
my statement, but made no remark.  Mr. Sykes sat on the ground by his
side, and I took up my position in front, and began to smoke, waiting
for an answer.  Some ten minutes later a little Mashona boy brought on a
piece of grass matting four large pieces of bullock's lights, that had
been broiled over a fire, and a fork, advancing on hands and knees to
his dreaded master, and placed them on the grass in front of his
majesty, who took the fork, transfixing one after the other as they
disappeared from sight in his capacious mouth, asking at the same time
many questions on down country news, and how the Queen was, and numerous
other remarks.

Finding he did not intend to give any answer, I told Mr. Sykes we would
leave him to say yes or no at some future time, that I did not come
begging, but only asked for what I had a right to expect he would grant,
and shaking hands we departed from his sable majesty, who was enjoying
the heat of the sun as he sat on his old wooden throne.  It was a very
hot morning.  Thermometer 97 degrees in my waggon, and in the sun must
have registered at least 140 degrees, but these black skins can stand
any amount of heat; it seems to absorb it without creating any
inconvenience.  On my return I found Mr. Wood, with his two waggons
outspanned close to mine, had pushed two of the chief Indunas into a
thorn hedge for calling him a dog; this has caused great commotion in
the Kotla, the king's kraal.  Mr. Wood went to see the king, but he
would not say a word, but I expect to-morrow something will be done.

I visited some of the traders' stores and met Mr. and Mrs. Elm there,
who invited me over to visit them at their mission station, Hope
Fountain, four miles distant, most pleasantly situated on the spur of
the hill overlooking a vast stretch of country to the east; it is a most
healthy locality.

Saturday, up all night, annoyed by wolves and dogs.  Mr. Wood's affair
came to nothing, as Lo-Bengulu would not interfere.  He left this
morning for Umcano, also Messrs. Sykes and Coillard with him, as he has
not yet released the latter.  I received a letter from Rev.  Mr. Thomas,
of Shiloh, enclosing letters for Messrs. Elm and Coillard, and wishing
me to visit him.

Three months ago Lo-Bengulu sent in an Impi into the Mashona country on
a marauding expedition, where they attacked several kraals, killing the
people, bringing back sixty slave children and all the cattle and goods
belonging to them.  A month previous a large Impi went into the same
district, where, as far as it can be ascertained, they killed all the
old people, making some of the women and big girls carry the plunder to
the boundary; then they made them put the things down on the ground and
then killed them, because they might run away if brought into
Matabeleland; preserving the little children who were brought in because
they soon forget the country they have left.

The weather is rather warm, 98 degrees, with heavy showers, storms round
in every direction.  Several euphorbia trees are close to my waggon,
that make a nice shade, and not far away there is a tree where a few
months back three women and five children were hung for witchcraft,
because one of the king's wives and two of his children had died the
night previous, and a wolf was killed within the king's enclosure by his
dogs; a Kaffir supposed to have bewitched them was killed also.  This
occurred just before my arrival.  At last year's dance, when 7000
warriors met, a black bull had his shoulder cut off when alive; this is
a custom with the tribe on some occasions, but I could not ascertain the
particulars.

The king's wives do not pick in the corn gardens, but his children do,
and also carry water the same as others; his reason is they must learn
to do such things; and his daughters go naked like the other girls, and
frequently pay my waggon a visit for tufa or tusa (present); sometimes
they are seen walking about with black skin kilts.  Most of them are
young, but they, as well as the women, wear few or no ornaments; very
few beads are used, mostly pieces of leather strips round the neck and
wrists, none on their legs or head, as is seen on other tribes.  The
Matabele women do not seem to take so readily to clothes as all the
other tribes, who are eager to be dressed up in petticoats, because I
presume it gives them greater liberty of action in their loins, from
their present cramped and bound-up state in their leather coverings.

I was surprised one day, soon after my arrival here, on returning in the
afternoon to my camp, to find four Zulu girls sitting under my waggon,
chatting and laughing with my Hottentot driver and forelooper, having
with them three fine bunches of beautiful ostrich feathers.  When I
looked under the waggon and they saw me, they all gave a yell of
delight, and came out, when I recognised them as old friends who had
frequently washed my clothes when I went to Barkly, in Griqualand West,
two years back, and always admired their clean neat appearance in their
white European clothes.  They told me their mother, who was a widow
woman, wanted to go back to her nation in Matabeleland, and they had
only lately arrived, having been on the road six months; and having
heard of my arrival, they came to see me, and had brought me some
ostrich feathers as a present, and as they knew my two boys they seemed
to be at home again.

I asked them what they had done with their clothes.  They said they had
them tied up in bundles and were in the hut occupied by their mother,
where they lived, and as they were amongst their own people they dressed
or undressed as the other girls.  I found them to be very convenient, as
they did my washing and other things for me.  I took the feathers and
paid them in beads, kerchiefs, tobacco for snuff, and such things they
wanted as presents; they would not take them in payment, showing these
people have some kind feeling; and during my stay at this station they
remained with me the greater portion of every day, their old mother
coming occasionally to pay me a visit.  They could speak English
perfectly; they told me they would like to go back with me if their
mother would let them, but four grown-up girls in my waggon would have
been too much of a good thing.  I should occupy many months in
returning, if I ever did, and it turned out that I did not visit Barkly
again for three years.  If there had been women at this station wearing
clothes, these girls would have retained theirs; it only shows the force
of example.

Thursday, 17th.  I arrived yesterday from exploring the country round,
much delayed by the wet weather and heavy thunderstorms, which have
lowered the temperature of the atmosphere down to 67 degrees, and yet
this is the height of summer up in the tropics, a difference of 30
degrees in a few days; a great-coat is comfortable.  I obtained a
Mashona blanket made of native cotton, also three battle-axes.
Lo-Bengulu, last Tuesday, himself took a burning piece of wood and
destroyed the eyes and nose of one of his men because he threw a stone
at a child and knocked out its front teeth; this was witnessed by one of
the traders.  And a short time previous he had one of his chief Indunas
and his three wives and three children killed, as it is stated, for
witchcraft, but other reasons are supposed to have been the cause; their
bones are lying a short distance from my waggon, having been picked
clean by wolves; they are very plentiful here and visit us nightly,
being on the look-out for human food, as all who are killed are thrown
outside the station for them and the dogs to eat.  Lo-Bengulu, at the
same time, is very fond of children and will not allow them to be
annoyed; he will not allow any milk to be sold by his people, but it is
given to the slave children.

A curious custom prevails amongst these people at the death of a
relative.  When any member of a family dies, he or she is immediately
taken out of the kraal to some adjacent land and buried, sometimes in a
sitting position.  Then for a week, and sometimes for a month, a fire is
kept burning every night close to the grave, and two or more of the
family have to remain there during that time.  Another curious custom is
in existence in the king's kraal; there is a hut within the king's
enclosure which no one is allowed to touch, not even to pull a straw
from the thatch.  If any one commits such an offence the king tells some
of his people to take him out of the kraal, which is tantamount to
ordering him to be killed.  A short time ago a young Kaffir was killed
for committing this offence, and the wolves and dogs had a good feast
that night.

Lo-Bengulu has no heir to take his place when he dies, not having a
royal wife, but if one of his wives should have a son, and he does not
take to wife a princess, she with the child, immediately after its
birth, will be banished, and have to live in a distant country; but
still a watch is kept upon her, and in the event of the king dying, the
mother and child will be brought back, and the child adopted by the
people as their king.

20th.  Lo-Bengulu came into the station this morning, and about 500
warriors went out to meet him, dressed in all the pomp of war.  His
sister Nina came in, in a horse-waggon, and the king with three waggons
and forty loose horses, men, women and children following on foot, as
the great national dance takes place on Tuesday; all the other dances
being rehearsals previous to this, which is the most important and
imposing of all.

Tuesday, a very hot day.  Many divisions of the Impi coming in from all
quarters and marching up to the great camp; as this is the last day of
the old year with this nation, they commemorate it by great national
rejoicings.  About twelve o'clock I walked up with several of the
hunters and traders, and took up our position close to the entrance of
the king's private grounds, when regiment after regiment came marching
up, dressed in their war dress as before described, with shield and
assagai, and took up their position so as to form an immense circle of
ten and twelve deep, within the enclosure close to the king's kraal, who
came out to show himself for a few minutes and retired.  In the mean
time, his wives, dressed in beads and bright yellow kerchiefs over their
shoulders, and long black kilts or skirts down below the knees, young
girls dressed in short kilts, and a profusion of ornaments round their
loins, arms and heads, stepped into the open space within the circle of
troops, and chanted songs, moving forward at the same time, the warriors
singing and raising their shields up and down, keeping time with their
feet.  Nina, the king's sister, came forward also, dressed in beads of
many colours round her waist, back, and skirt, brass and gold chains,
gold watch and chain.  After a time Lo-Bengulu came forward with a
dancing gait, and took the lead out of the station at the head of his
own particular regiment or bodyguard, whose dress and shields are all
black, each soldier not less than six feet, followed by the other
regiments, when they formed into three sides of a square.  Then the king
came forward, surrounded by his bodyguard, and threw an assagai at an
imaginary enemy, when all the troops were instantly in motion and
returned to the open space in the enclosure, when the rain came down so
fast that it put a stop to further proceedings.  But previous to the
king's leaving, about 100 oxen were driven out of the circle where they
had been kept by the whole of the Impi, and were soon slaughtered for
the great feast that was to come off that night.  Altogether it was a
pretty and novel sight, and if the weather had been fine, the effect
would have been most singular and striking.  Some 500 women and girls
stood in groups to witness the performances.  The women who danced held
sticks ten feet in length with the bark peeled off; the slave population
looked on at a distance.  I made the best of my way to Mr. Peterson's
store, where I found Mr. and Mrs. Elm, Mr. and Mrs. Coillard and the
sister, and took cake and coffee with them, and then to my waggon which
was outspanned on the opposite hill.  The programme for this review was
upon a much grander scale than the former already described.  The next
day the troops returned to the respective military camps, and the last
of the military dances ended in a downpour of rain, amidst crashing
thunder and flash after flash of the most vivid lightning I have seen
for a long time.

On the 27th January, I called on Lo-Bengulu for an answer to my request;
he was sitting under his verandah on a chair.  We shook hands, and he
stated he could not allow me to cross his country, because if I
attempted to do so the people would kill me and he would be blamed by
the English for the cause of my death; that if I wanted the things I
wished to go in for he would try and get them, and send them down to the
Governor; that I should never return if I went in, for the Mashonas
would destroy me and he could not help it.

This I saw was mere excuse; he had stated the same thing to others, but
it was useless to argue the point with him, and to go in without his
sanction would have been madness, as the country at the present time is
in a very unsettled state, as Colonel Saltmarsh, whom I met on the
Maclutsie river, as I was going in and he was coming out, told me how he
had been treated by the people, and his boys became frightened, he was
obliged to return; that he was disgusted with his trip and was glad to
get away.  He also told me Lo-Bengulu will not allow any one to go
beyond his station.  Messrs. Bray and Wood took a letter from Sir
Theophilus Shepstone, the administrator of the Transvaal, to the king,
asking as a favour to allow them to go in, but the king refused point
blank, and stated while he is king no one shall ever go into the Mashona
country.

One hunter had his waggon turned over and all his things stolen, and
when complaining to the king of his people's conduct, his reply was he
did not tell them to do it, and he got no satisfaction; not very
encouraging for my success, therefore I was prepared in some degree for
a refusal.  I believe the Colonel had a gun stolen from him also.  At
any rate he did not intend to go without his Christmas pudding if he had
proceeded, for on the banks of the Maclutsie where I met him, he was
preparing a very fine one, and asked me to join him in disposing of it.
The next day we parted, the Colonel for the South and I for the North,
to try my luck with this powerful and despotic monarch.  And as affairs
turned out it was a lucky refusal for me, for a few months after, as I
was exploring the western portion of the Mashona country, reports came
to us by a native that three white men had been killed in the Mashona
country, not so many miles away, by the natives, but they could not give
the names.  But afterwards, on my return to the Tati, I found they were
Captain Patterson, Mr. Sargeant, son of Sir W.  Sargeant, the Crown
Agent, and formerly Colonial Secretary of Natal, and a son of the Rev.
Mr. Thomas, of Shiloh, who had left the Transvaal a few months before
with a letter from Sir Theophilus Shepstone on a mission from him to the
Matabele king.  At the time there was great mystery concerning their
death; it was first reported they had been poisoned by drinking from a
pond that had been poisoned by the Bakalahari Bushmen, but that was
absurd.  It appears that Captain Patterson had entered into some
agreement with Lo-Bengulu which was not pleasing to the Indunas,
therefore to put an end to the agreement it was arranged to put an end
to them.  Rumours of foul play got abroad, and young Mr. Thomas, son of
the missionary at Shiloh, who was one of the three, went as guide; he
was warned, but would not believe the report.  Mr. Palmer, who was going
to accompany them, also heard strange rumours, and he declined, which
saved his life.  The very fact of rumours of foul play going to be
perpetrated was proof that their death had been planned before they were
on their way to the Zambese to visit the Victoria Falls, and as
confirmation of this, Lo-Bengulu said afterwards to some of the white
people, "Now Captain Patterson is dead, the agreement goes for nothing."
It is supposed the three were killed when they were bathing, but no
document was found amongst Captain Patterson's effects to throw light on
this matter, and Mr. Thomas, the father, was afraid to express any
opinion, or to have a full inquiry made in the affair, as he was living
in the country and would have been killed if he had said what he
thought.  He died last year.

That they were murdered there is no question.  Captain Patterson was in
the employ of the British Government, and was in Matabeleland on
official duties, therefore it was the duty of the Government to
investigate the matter and to have sent up an officer competent to carry
it out, instead of making inquiries of the British residents on the
spot, who dare not speak what they knew, and to have given Lo-Bengulu to
understand that British subjects were not to be murdered in his
territory with impunity.  It is this shirking of responsibilities that
lead to dire results, and is unbecoming the dignity of a great nation
like Great Britain.  This has been the fatal policy of the British
Government in South Africa, which has caused the misery and bloodshed
that has swept over South Africa these last few years, and paralysed the
whole trade of the country.  It is not only detrimental to the Colony,
but our British workmen at home suffer, from the stoppage of the trade
to those regions that so largely consume British merchandise.  If the
people of England were to look a little more into these matters, instead
of wasting their time in that petty party spirit which seems to be on
the increase, and devote that time in improving and developing our trade
in our colonies and elsewhere, it would be more conducive to their
welfare than employing it in quibbling over who should have votes or
not, and woman's suffrage, that will not bring one penny more into the
pockets of the people; and such other trifling matters, unprofitably
employing the time of the House of Commons, which should be devoted to
the general interests of our country abroad, and in our colonies, that
are the main source of our prosperity and wealth, which means, in other
words, full employment for our workpeople; for no other policy will put
bread into their mouths.  If this contemptible party spirit, which has
now grown rampant, should increase, England's greatness is on the wane,
for where a house is divided against itself, it cannot stand.  This
spirit, of opposition in time becomes a mania, and the most vital
interests of our country are sunk in the glory, as they imagine, of
turning out their opponents from office.  I hope all who wish for the
prosperity of Great Britain will rise to the occasion and become what
their forefathers were, staunch and determined upholders of British
interests, which means prosperity to her people, where the weal of Great
Britain is concerned, and sink that petty and unpatriotic spirit.  My
fate most probably would have been similar to those unfortunate men, as
it was known I was on a mission into that country also.  I might have
gone and never been heard of more, a satisfactory conclusion to arrive
at.

The Mashona country in the north is but little-known, from the
difficulty thrown in the way of exploring it, particularly along the
south side of the river Zambese; gold in large quantities is known to be
there, as also other minerals.  On the north side of the river gold has
been found, but until some better mode of transit is adopted, such as a
single line of railway, with shuntings at stated distances, the richness
of these regions cannot be developed.  A railway would revolutionise the
whole country, to the immense advantage of our Cape Colony and Great
Britain, and the civilisation of the native tribes.

When Lo-Bengulu became king, in January, 1870, it was supposed the
rightful heir to the throne, "Kuruman," born from a royal wife of
Moselikatze, was dead, killed by order of his father, as it appears
there was a conspiracy amongst the Indunas to dethrone him, and place
Kuruman in his place.  Moselikatze, hearing of this, as he was out with
an army making conquest in the northern part of the Mashona country,
immediately returned and made an attack on a kraal where these Indunas
had assembled, Inthaba Inisduna, and slaughtered them and all the
people, except Lo-Bengulu, who was his son by another wife, but made a
royal child--and with those slaughtered, it was supposed Kuruman was
one, but it was found afterwards he had escaped.  Moselikatze sent for
him, and ordered a Basuto to take him away and destroy him, but he was
not to injure his person, that one belonging to royalty should not be
mangled.

Kuruman's servant was also commissioned to assist in the murder.  When
it was accomplished, as is supposed, these two men returned to the king
and reported his death, but it is supposed by others that he was allowed
to escape, and that he found his way down to Natal, and became a servant
of the Honourable Theophilus Shepstone, the minister of native affairs
in that colony, and nothing more was heard of him for some years.  Still
the Matabele were much divided respecting Lo-Bengulu becoming king, and
many military stations would not acknowledge him; the consequence was, a
general slaughter took place, and kraal after kraal were visited by the
king's troops, killing man, woman, and child, depopulating large
districts, and after some time reduced the number of his opponents to a
few, but still never entirely crushing them out, or destroying all who
still clung to the hope of getting rid of Lo-Bengulu.  Many of the men
spared in these fights were incorporated in the army that remained true
to the king.  Soon after it was reported that Kuruman was alive in
Natal; messengers were sent down to ascertain the fact; and also some
refugees stated he was Kuruman.  He denied he was the Kuruman, but
afterwards, in 1871, acknowledged he was, and departed for the north to
claim his rights.  The last time I heard of him he was at Rustenburg in
the Transvaal.  The doubt that has hung over Lo-Bengulu, as to his
really being the right man, has made him very watchful, and it seems
this supposed Kuruman is still looking out for an opportunity to enter
the Matabeleland and try his luck, but Lo-Bengulu is too securely
settled on his throne to be easily deposed.

At the death of Moselikatze, waggon-loads full of presents of every
description, presents from those who had visited his country, and
payments for the privilege of hunting in his veldt, became the property
of Lo-Bengulu, and were thatched to preserve them from the weather,
never to be used, because the great king had ridden in them; the empty
ones were destroyed at the burial of the king; taking those loaded to
Gebbeklaiko, now called Gubuluwayo or Bulowaiyo, where the royal widow
of Moselikatze went to reside after the death of her husband, and also
where Lo-Bengulu took up his royal residence, which he has occupied up
to the time when it was recently destroyed.  He has several kraals in
different parts of the country that he visits from time to time, for a
change.  Mr. and Mrs. Coillard are still here, not yet having obtained
their release, but expect it daily.  Mr. Sykes has been indefatigable in
the affair, and clearly explained the object of his visit to establish
several French missionary stations throughout the Mashona country under
native teachers.  But Lo-Bengulu, although very kind to the English
missionaries, is not a believer in their faith, and his people are very
much of the same opinion, consequently there are few converts.  All the
districts are visited by them.  Mr. Sykes and also Mr. Thomas have for
the last twenty-eight years been at much trouble, but cannot convert
them.  They have their great spirit, Molemo, and with their medicine-men
to make rain for them, they seem contented to remain.

In the afternoon I left for Thabo Induna, which is the place where the
massacre of the Indunas took place under Moselikatze previously
mentioned, and then on to Umzamalas town to Inzalion, but as Mr. and
Mrs. Sykes were with the king, went on to Mr. George Wood, an old
traveller and hunter, who showed me several pieces of gold he had
procured from the near quartz reef, and some gold-dust he had himself
washed from the Changani river.  The whole of this region down to the
Zambese is a gold-bearing country.

But what seems very remarkable, no instruments or anything has been
found to lead to the time when this part of the Mashona country was
overrun by this supposed white race, but a time may come when
prospecting may be allowed, that will throw more light upon this
subject.  These old diggings may have been worked by the Queen of
Sheba's people, and subsequently by a white race.  It is very clear,
there must have been a different race from the present, that worked the
ground for gold in these parts, several hundred years ago; from the
ruins now standing, I think proves they may have been the same under the
name of Abbalomba.

Besides the gold-mines in other districts, which will be described in
dealing with the adjoining kingdom of Umzela, there are other
indications of the presence of a civilised people in remote times;
throughout this region known as the Royaume du Quiteve, and Etats du
Monomotapa, the residence of the Emperor Quiteve, and also to the north
is the Ville Royal du Monomotapa, which is situated in ancient
Portuguese maps as being in the northern division of the Mashona
country, on the south side of the Zambese, under the name Monomotapa, in
the Abutua and Banyai regions; the emperor of whom, in 1550, was
conquered by the Portuguese, so they say, and ceded his dominion to
them.  Now it is an interesting question, what tribe or nation did these
emperors spring from?  It appears certain that they must have been in
possession of the country long before the Portuguese rounded the Cape of
Good Hope, and proceeded as far north up the east coast to Mozambique,
including Quillimane and Delagoa Bay, in 1497, under Vasco de Gama; but
he made no settlements on the coast at that time.  Bartholomew Diaz, in
1486, rounded the Cape and proceeded as far east as Algoa Bay, and
planted a cross on St. Croix Island, then on to the Great Fish river,
and returned.  Sofala was visited by a Portuguese traveller from
Abyssinia in 1480.  In 1500, the Portuguese began to form settlements on
the west coast; 1506, town of Mozambique taken by the Portuguese under
Tristan d'Acunha; 1507, Portuguese proceed with their conquests on east
coast, and in 1508, conquer Sofaia.  Therefore it was impossible for the
Portuguese to establish themselves to any great extent on the
coast-line, much before the time it is stated they conquered the Emperor
of Mouomotapa.

A Venetian map published in 1546 gives an outline of the Zambese river
and the Central African lakes, and I have an ancient map of Africa
showing several lakes in that region, particularly Lake Tanganyika,
which very correctly shows its true position, clearly proving that it
was discovered long before Livingstone or any other modern explorer ever
visited that central region.

Were these Monomotapa people black or white, and from whence did they
come?  They were evidently a separate people from those who now occupy
the country.  May not an Arab tribe have passed down along the east
coast, and established themselves in the Mashona region, and formed a
kingdom? for the word Emperor is not a word used by any African races
south of the Zambese, and none, I believe, except they are of Arab
blood, or closely connected with that race.  There is at present that
tribe mentioned in my description of the northern Kalahara desert, on
the Quito and Cubango, to the north of my explorations, that are termed
white; may not this remnant be descendants of the Monomotapa people, and
those white the Mashonas call "Abbalamba," who may also have formed a
part of the Emperor Quiteve's people?

The broad Zambese river would have been a very enticing stream for any
tribe to follow up, who were coming down south to settle, and they may
have introduced the Arab customs, and also Jewish customs, amongst the
people.  Now it is well known the Mashonas are excellent mechanics,
workers in metals, excellent blacksmiths, and they manufacture blankets
from the cotton fibre, which no other nation in the south of Central
Africa does--may not this knowledge have been handed down from this
white race?  Give one of these Mashonas a piece of gold, and ask him to
make you a ring; it will soon be done, and done well.

I am surprised no Englishman has ever thought of exploring the Zambese
from its mouth to the Victoria Falls, with canoes; it could be
accomplished without much difficulty, and a most interesting and
pleasant trip it would be, returning by road to the Colony by the
transport road the whole way; much valuable information would be
obtained that might throw some light on this interesting subject.  To do
it by land would be much more difficult, the many rivers to cross,
swamps and thick jungle to pass through, sleeping at night on the ground
would cause fever, and as my map and others will show, it has never been
explored.  Livingstone followed it down part of the way, and there he
lost his wife.  The distance from the mouth to the falls is about 900
miles.

The old forts on the Umvuli, with the old gold-diggings, along the base
of the Leputa and Lobolo mountains on the Mlebka river, Kambesa,
Nuntigesa, Mandou, Zimbo, Piza and many others in the Mashona country on
the east; and to the west of the Sabia river, near each, are extensive
old diggings, and on the Ingwezi river there are very perfect ruins, but
completely enclosed in bush; the walls are extensive and thick, all of
them built of hewn granite, and laid in regular courses; another on the
Nuanettie river, to the west of the Woohu mountain, is a very good
specimen of these ancient forts, situated on a rocky eminence, well
defended on all sides, and also covered in by trees and bush.  The
Zimbo, or Zimbase, ruins of an old fort are situated on a small branch
of the Sabia river, in 20 degrees 16 minutes South latitude.  A short
distance from its banks there are several low walls on an open space,
but the most extensive is that situated on a low granite hill; the walls
are about eight feet thick and five feet in height in the lower portion,
the upper part measures twenty feet, and forms a sort of round tower
very similar to the ruins on the Tati, which have been described; the
walls are built of hewn granite stone, and in regular layers; on the
inside there are several beams inserted in the walls projecting eight
feet, composed of a hard and fine-grained stone of a dark colour.  Upon
one of them are carvings, diamond-shaped, one within another, separated
by wavy lines; they are much overgrown by shrubs and creepers, and seem
to be of the same date, and erected by the same people as those already
described.  Several old gold-diggings are in the vicinity.  Altogether
these ancient forts, that are so largely distributed over these regions,
are most interesting, and when this country is more developed and better
understood, they may lead to discoveries that may throw more light upon
the subject.  That the Portuguese did deal largely with the natives in
gold is clearly established, and if all these ruined forts were their
work, they must have occupied the country in very considerable numbers,
which seems hardly likely, because there is no record of their having
done so to the extent which these ruins show.

The kingdom of Tarva is supposed to have been in these regions.  I have
not met with any ruins yet that would lead me to suppose they were once
the palace of the Queen of Sheba.  I do not think that walls six or
eight feet thick, built of small hewn stone without mortar, would stand
as perfect as they are the wear and tear of four thousand years, in a
country subject to such storms as sweep over this region in the rainy
season.

The only relics I have found are broken pieces of pottery, containing
much mica, and the well-worn stones the natives used to crush their
corn, which must have been in use many years, as they are hollowed out
almost like basins, and the round stone the size of a cricket-ball, much
worn on one side in pounding the grain.  One ancient grave I opened, but
found nothing but a spear-head of iron, that crumbled to pieces when
handled; the bones had disappeared.  I may mention, when prospecting in
the channels worn in the beds of the rivers by the water, I have found a
great many copper beads mixed up in the gravel and sand, and a piece of
silver, that looks like part of a bar, about half an inch square and an
inch in length, that was also lying in the bed of the river close to the
ruins of the old fort on the Ingwazi river.

The watershed that divides the Zambese and Limpopo basins runs in a
north-east and south-west direction, like the backbone of an animal; the
spurs representing the ribs, but in places the hill is broken up, as at
Gubuluwayo and the country round.  The rivers that drain each basin take
their rise within a few yards of each other, on the south of the king's
kraal.  All the elevated portions of the country are healthy, the lower
parts are subject to fever to Europeans in the rainy season, but when
the country is occupied by an industrious race, and cleared of bush and
drained, it will become as healthy in time as any other portion of
Africa, being so elevated above sea-level, viz. 3300 feet.  It cannot be
so very unhealthy, when Mr. and Mrs. Sykes have lived at Inyatine
twenty-eight years, and have enjoyed good health; Mr. and Mrs. Thomas,
also, for the same time; and at Hopefountain, the two missionaries and
their families have enjoyed good health for many years, and at
Gubuluwayo the traders have no more sickness than if they lived in any
other part of the country considered healthy.

Since my last journey into Matabeleland, Lo-Bengulu has taken to himself
a royal wife, the sister of the Zulu chief Umzela, whose territory
adjoins the western boundary of the Matabele king, and occupies all the
country down to the east African coast, not in the occupation of the
Portuguese.  This naturally was not very agreeable to his sister Nina,
who ruled supreme in her brother's court, during the time he had no
royal wife, which must have made it unpleasant for both parties.  I am
not acquainted with the particulars, but I suppose the king deemed it
expedient to get rid of this annoyance, adopted his usual plan, for he
gave orders to some of his people to take his sister away, which is
tantamount to ordering her to be killed, but no royal blood must be
spilt or the body mutilated; consequently she was taken away and
smothered.  His royal residence at Gubuluwayo has been destroyed, and a
new military camp formed at some distance from it.  His new residence is
built in the European style, much larger than the former, containing
several fine rooms; the principal apartment is capable of holding over
100 people, substantially built of brick, with thatched roof, erected by
Europeans.  The Matabele who calls himself Kuruman, the son of
Moselikatze, and was supposed to have been killed previous to his
father's death, has claimed the kingship, and has many followers, which
may eventually lead to much bloodshed.

A railway will do more to civilise the people in the interior and
increase trade than any other means that could be adopted to improve the
natives and open up the country.

Lo-Bengulu is very favourably disposed towards the English, as I have
before stated; what has made him severe on some, is his having lost
confidence in many who have gone into his country, and abused the
privileges granted to them, which naturally has shaken his good faith in
all who visit Matabeleland.  When he knows he can depend on any, he is
exceedingly friendly, and will do much for them, as in the case of the
late Mr. Thomas Baines, the traveller, who from his honourable, upright,
and straightforward conduct, gained the king's confidence.  The result
was, he granted a large concession of his country to him, for working
and exploring for gold, and signed a document to that effect, showing
that if properly treated he will do good to those who act fair towards
him.  There are a few old hunters who have for years lived up in
Matabeleland, and have the king's confidence, from acting towards him in
an upright and honest way, and have become almost natives of the
country; they belong to the old stock of hunters that are fast passing
away; only a few are now remaining that could be called hunters of the
old days of Moselikatze time, and which formed a little community in
themselves.  Those were days of real enjoyment, when game was plentiful,
and the country not overrun as it is now by a different class of people
altogether.  Those good old times were before the discovery of diamonds,
when even Griqualand West was an unknown land to the colonist.  Mr. G.
Westbeach is now living on the banks of the Zambese; Mr. G.  Phillips
is, I believe, there also; Messrs. Byles, Wood, Lisk are now in other
parts, and one or two more are all that are left of the old stock of
_bona-fide_ hunters.  At that time they formed a little society in
themselves, hired a small farm called Little England, where they would
meet once a year or as often as circumstances would call them down from
the interior, to procure fresh stock in exchange for ivory, feathers,
and other articles.  Each member had to undergo fresh baptism in the way
of a souse in a large bath made in the water sluit in front of the
house, clothes and everything on, and pay his footing in the way of a
certain quantity of brandy or square face (gin).  When I entered the
brotherhood I was suffering with a severe attack of influenza, and
consequently was excused the bath, by paying double footing in spirits;
keeping up commemoration night till late in the morning, which cured me
of my cold.

All is changed now--the country has been of late overrun by traders from
the diamond-fields; Boers from the Transvaal, who have unscrupulously
abused the native laws of Matabeleland, and made the king doubly severe
on all who enter his dominions, and caused the Indunas to look upon all
white men as dogs, which has damaged the prestige of the white man in
the eyes of the natives, and Lo-Bengulu, who is ruled to a certain
extent by them, cannot always do as he would wish.  Natives are very
susceptible of insult, and as the Boers treat all black men as dogs, and
in some way insult them, which they do not forget, this has frequently
brought the English traveller or hunter into trouble.

Lo-Bengulu respects the English nation, and has a loyal feeling towards
her Majesty the Queen, and as all Bechuanaland has been brought under
her protection, now is the time for the British Government to show this
sable monarch and his people, by our acts in Bechuanaland, that
England's policy is not to exterminate the black man, but to protect,
assist, and benefit him, which policy is the only one to bring
Lo-Bengulu and his people into a better frame of mind regarding
England's views towards them, and the only course to eventually open up
that country to civilisation.  At the present time they fear a Boer
invasion, and as they are renowned for their political sagacity, they
will be too wise to offend the English people, who may shortly be living
on their borders.  But if Boers are allowed to settle in Bechuanaland
then we may say farewell to peace in that region.

All now depends on the course the British Government adopt in this new
protectorate.  Lo-Bengulu and his Indunas, I believe, will not interfere
or be troublesome on the border of this protectorate, if they see we
respect the rights of the black man in the future of that country, and,
instead of having the Matabele in any way troublesome, they will become
our friends.  I see a great future open for that country, which will
materially benefit the native races, and be the means of developing that
vast region now closed to British merchandise, for that is the great
civilising power by teaching the native mind the advantages they will
derive from commerce.  Whatever cruelty Lo-Bengulu may perpetrate in his
own country, will not extend further; he was brought up under the
dreaded chief, his father, who ruled his people through their blood, for
no other mode of governing them would have availed.  But the people are
beginning to understand the English ways, in the same manner as the
Zulus do in Zululand.

Thursday, 21st May.  Walked over to old John Viljoen's waggon, where he
was outspanned under some large trees surrounded by a thick bush,
completely concealing the waggons from view; his son and a Boer were
making kameel biltong, having shot one yesterday.  He is now waiting for
the weather to clear up, to have some elephant shooting, his son having
seen eight, about six miles away, in the morning.  Talking of elephant
shooting, he said he had shot seventy-nine at different times, and he
told me, a Scotchman, Mr. Thackery, had shot ninety-nine, and in
shooting the hundredth, when the animal laid apparently dead, he climbed
up him over his head, when the elephant gave him a blow with his tusk
and killed him on the spot.  We arranged to go out together on Monday.
He also told me he shot a python, a few days ago, measuring eighteen
feet in length, and twenty-eight inches round; he saw several others,
but they got away.  On returning to the waggon I found a trader, Mr.
Mussenden, with his waggon outspanned close to it, who was surprised to
see me, having long ago heard that I had been murdered by Bushmen up in
the interior, that it was reported throughout all the country, and
everything stolen; he said he had often heard of my being in the
interior, and through the Desert, when he was up-country, but never
expected to see me alive again, and was very glad we had met, as he
often wished to know me.  Many such reports get about of explorers and
hunters being murdered or lost in the bush; and it requires great care
to avoid some of these dangers in so extensive a region, particularly to
those who have not the bump of locality.  When leaving your waggon, in
the saddle or on foot, before starting, be particular to take bearings
of mountains or any prominent objects.  When the sun is perpendicular at
mid-day, it is difficult to know the north from the south, and if you
have left your compass behind, those unaccustomed to be in a wooded
region soon become confused as to the direction to be taken to regain
their waggon.  Several, whom I knew, have lost their lives in this way,
and were never heard of more.  A young man, William Hancock, I had with
me as my driver, when outspanned in a level country, with dense bush,
took his gun early in the morning to look after game, and never returned
all that day, and night coming on, I began to fear for his safety; the
whole of that night I was in a fearful state of alarm, firing shot after
shot to let him know our position, but no reply; I got no sleep that
night.  At daybreak I saddled-up and started in the direction he took,
firing shots frequently, and I sent my loop-boy out in another
direction.  After calling and shouting until nearly losing my voice, up
to 2 p.m., a distant report came to my last shot; starting off in the
direction at as great a speed as I could make in the thick forest for at
least a mile, I fired again, when a reply came at no great distance.
Going towards it and shouting, I heard a faint voice in amongst the
trees, and Hancock came towards me; he was nearly demented, and looked
as if he had grown ten years older.  Before asking any questions, I gave
him a flask full of brandy and water, and some biscuits which I brought
with me.  He told me he had been in a pursuit of a koodoo he had
wounded, and in the chase had lost the direction of the waggon, and in
his endeavour to reach it had wandered in the opposite direction and
became so confused that he did not know where he was, firing off his
rifle at times to let us know, but the distance prevented the reports
being heard, and as night came on he gave himself up as lost, and
climbed a tree, where he passed the night, as many lions were about;
some of them came almost under the tree.  In the morning he got down,
fired off several shots, until he had only two charges left.  He said
his anxiety made him lose his strength, and from want of water and food
he was nearly exhausted, and when he heard the report of my rifle he
felt he was saved from death, and obtained renewed strength and fired
his last cartridge, which brought me to him.  Mounting him in the
saddle, we returned to the waggon, distant at least four miles.  Now
this young man, born in the Colony, accustomed all his life to being out
in the open air after game, had no knowledge of taking bearings from
time to time, to see the direction he was going; the poor boy--for he
was only nineteen--felt he had gained a new life.  I gave him a few
lessons on woodcraft for his future guidance if placed in a similar
position.  He was a most willing lad and of great assistance to me in my
wanderings; he was a son of one of the early settlers of 1820.

Finally, we may conclude, in leaving this region, that the knowledge
already obtained of the richness of the Matabele and Mashona country by
exploring parties that have been allowed to prospect, only in certain
districts, and by others who have travelled through it in other parts,
and from my own observations, there is not a shadow of a doubt that
eventually this part of the continent will surpass all others in
Southern Africa as a gold-producing district, in the cultivation of
cotton, and other valuable products, that cannot but prove most
beneficial to the power who may obtain it; and to the benefit of its
people, instead of its remaining in its present barbarous state, where
the slaughter of its inhabitants depends on the present whims of its
despotic monarch.

From what has already been discovered of its richness, we see plainly
the ancients, who extracted the gold, have only done so to a limited
extent--what may be termed surface workings; for their numerous pits,
after all, are mere scratches in the ground at places, but when they are
properly worked and greater depth attained, the mines may be found
almost inexhaustible.  And if the gold-dust, found in the sand of the
rivers, can be procured by a few single washings from a small dish, what
may be expected when the whole of these rivers have been properly
worked?

CHAPTER TWENTY FOUR.

THE PHYSICAL GEOGRAPHICAL FEATURES OF THAT REGION, LYING BETWEEN THE
MATABELE AND MASHONA COUNTRY, AND THE INDIAN OCEAN, NOW UNDER THE RULE
OF THE CHIEF UMZELA AND OTHER CHIEFS.

This extensive portion of South Central Africa abuts on the north-east
boundary of the Transvaal, the eastern boundary of the Mashona and
Matabeleland, and the Zambese in the north, up to 29 degrees 50 minutes
East longitude.  On the east by the Indian Ocean, and on the south by
the Portuguese possessions at Delagoa Bay.  The main watershed passing
through the Mashona country, which divides the Limpopo from the Zambese
river, in 18 degrees 10 minutes South latitude, turns east and separates
the waters flowing into the Zambese, through the Mazoe river, from that
which flows into the Sabia, runs south down to 21 degrees 10 minutes
South latitude, 32 degrees 5 minutes East longitude, when it turns
easterly and north-east, and enters the south side of Sofala Bay.  This
river has many tributaries on the west, draining a portion of the
Mashona country, but on the eastern bank there are few, and those but
small.  The most important river is the Buzi, taking its rise from many
small tributaries in a hilly district, to the east of the Sabia in 20
degrees 30 minutes South latitude, 32 degrees 30 minutes East longitude,
on a tributary of which the Umsweleze, the chief Umzela's kraal, is
situated; the Buzi from this point takes a sweep round in a north-east
direction, and enters the Indian Ocean in 19 degrees 50 minutes South
latitude, passing through the Sofala region, between this latter river
and the Sabia.  The Garogesi river enters Sofala Bay.

There are several small rivers north of the Buzi to the mouth of the
Zambese, that drain the coast-line, which is very flat and marshy.  The
tributaries of the Zambese are the Zangwe, Sankatsi, Mowila--the main
branch of the Mazoe enters the river below Tette--Nake, Zingesi, and
Panyame.  In the northern portion, between the Mashona and Zambese, are
many isolated and extensive hills,--Vimga, Nadsu, and Vimiga, drained by
the Nake and Zingesi.  To the east of these hills is the Lobolo
mountain, with its many spurs, and more to the east the Moltkeberg,
drained by the Mazoe and its tributaries, Gaverese, Upa, Janhambe,
Jankatse, and others of smaller note, all which are in the Zambese
basin, which includes also--lower down that river--the Mowila, Sankatsi,
and Zangwe.

The country towards the sea is flat and most uninteresting.  There are
several low ranges of hills in outlying districts.  The country
generally is dense bush, and full of game.  The Portuguese possessions
do not extend many miles beyond the south bank of the Zambese river.
The chiefs in those districts claim up to that line.

The altitude of the Lombolo mountain is 4200 feet, and the Moltkeberg
3700 feet above sea-level.  The general rise of the country is 1700
feet, gradually sloping towards the Zambese and coast.  The northern
division is divided into different tribes under their respective chiefs.
The Banyai country is between the Mashona and Zambese, in which is
situated the Portuguese town of Tette, on the banks of the Zambese.
Pretty and picturesque country around, with fruit of every kind, melons,
oranges, lemons, sweet potatoes, pines, and every kind of vegetable; but
the Portuguese are so lazy that everything is left almost to nature.
The river is navigable for small steamers for seventy miles above Tette,
which is situated 260 miles from its mouth.  Magnificent timber trees
grow in the valleys, and on the slopes of the hills ivory palm, Mali
palm, the palm that grows to the height of eighty feet; the seed of the
fruit is eaten by the natives; it grows in the uplands, and down on the
low-lying swampy country.  Mashola, a tree that bears a round fruit
similar to the Kaffir orange.  The india-rubber tree is very common; the
fruit can be eaten.  The Umtonto tree is used for making baskets and
other things.  Large tracts of country are covered with the Mowasha
bush, mahogany, and ebony up in the hill districts, and all similar
trees found growing in the Mashona country are found there.

There are many native villages along the banks of the several streams,
the country being very thickly populated, particularly in the hill
districts, and the people are industrious and skilful workmen in all
branches of trade, and they make their own blankets from the wild cotton
and baobab tree, which they work by hand, the former by having the yarn
spun by hand with a small stick, weighted at the end; four sticks are
stuck in the ground to form a kind of loom, the yarn stretched tight,
and being wound on a piece of wood, is passed backwards and forwards,
the strands being threaded, to allow the woof to pass through and
through by a backward movement of the hand.  They can make blankets the
usual size, and very white and strong.  They also manufacture bands of
various sizes for native uses.  The blankets made from the bark of the
tree, and bags to hold milk, are very strong and beautifully made.  The
females are fond of ornamenting their persons, wearing copper and brass
rings round their necks, on their legs and arms, and some have silver,
which I was told is got out of the mountains.  Gold is found in all the
mines in the Banyai country; the natives sell it to the Portuguese at
Tette, and quartz reefs cross the country in many districts; several
portions have not yet been visited, consequently the richness of this
region is not known.

On the mountains and high lands the country is healthy, but the
low-lying ground in the rainy season is very unhealthy.  Portuguese
native traders are the only ones that go into those extensive regions,
and supply the population with beads, brass wire, and other things in
exchange for the gold-dust they procure from the rivers.  There is an
old fort on the Mazoe river, under the Lobolo mountains, and several
others higher up that have been partly destroyed by the natives for
walls for their gardens, where they plant small fields of cotton to make
their blankets; a little piece is so occupied adjoining their huts, and
it is found to grow very well in elevated positions.  I have found it
wild as high as 4300 feet above the sea-level, in a light soil, where
water is not found near, but in the low lands it is very plentiful.

South of the Banyai country is the Batoka, in which is the Moltkaberg,
watered by the Upa river, a tributary of the Luenya.  The source of the
Mazoe rises on the watershed in this region, at the Sakaloko kraal, in
18 degrees 0 minutes South latitude.  Another spring issues close to
Mebka kraal, and at Gangwesi kraal, at an elevation of 4210 feet above
the sea, and flows north, on which there are many villages, close to
several large vleis, and towards the east is the large kraal of the
chief Makombes on the Mewila river.  There are also many other native
kraals situated on all the branches of this river down to the Zambese,
and along its banks, Senna being the most important, where there are
several hills that skirt it.  The Batoka tribe is numerous--a fine,
powerful race.  The country is full of bush and fine timber, the same
which grows in the Banyai district.

On the east of Batoka is the Senna region, which reaches to the Zambese
and to its mouth, and along the eastern coast, down to where the Sofala
joins it.  All that is known of this country is that it is very flat and
low; and within its boundary, on the banks of the Zambese, Dr.
Livingstone's wife was taken ill and died, and was buried on its banks
under a baobab tree, a little below the town of Shupanga, and opposite
to the town of Mulu.  Forty miles above the great river Shire branches
off, which flows from Lake Shirwa, in 15 degrees 0 minutes South
latitude, 35 degrees 50 minutes East longitude.  There are few hills in
this part of the country of any note.  Cotton grows abundantly, and
vegetation is coarse and rank in the swamps.

On the south of Batoka is Birue.  This region joins up to the Mashona
country, the Sabia being the boundary, Senna on the east, and Sofala on
the south.  The Sabia river rises in 18 degrees 10 minutes South
latitude, near the village of Sakalato, and flows south as before
stated.  Upon the banks are Kambesa, Gansuma, Umsosa, Kambiss, and
others.  The country is high, with hills of no great extent, thickly
wooded, with abundance of large game of every kind; palms, baobab,
mahogany, ebony, mapari, india-rubber, and a variety of other trees.
The valley along the river is very pretty and picturesque, well
cultivated by the natives, and produces every kind of vegetable.  The
people are civil, but very inquisitive, and great beggars.  White cotton
seems to be much in demand.  The land gradually descends towards the
ocean, until the flat and swampy country is reached.

To the south of Birue is the district of Quitive, a portion of Sofala
that joins up to the Sabia, on the south by Umselayon region.  This
district is supposed to be the kingdom of the Queen of Sheba.  Manica is
the principal kraal, near which are several ancient ruins, and the
remains of a tower a few miles to the north-west of Manica.  It stands
on high ground, 4100 feet above sea-level, which descends to the east,
and not far from the ruins is a large sheet of water, also several
plains on the south of Manica.  The population is a mixed race, composed
of Umgovis, who are part Zulus, Mandowas, Basigas, Batagas, Mashonas,
and others, who are under the chief Umzela.  There are extensive open
grass-lands, and the low-lying country is healthy during five months of
the winter, when there is no fear of taking the fever.  Thirty miles
south of Manica the land rises to 4458 feet.

To the east of this district is the Sofala region, in which the
Portuguese town and port of Sofala are situated.  The town is but a poor
place, as all the Portuguese towns are on this coast; but they command
all the trade of the up districts, which is considerable in ivory,
skins, a few ostrich feathers, and other products of the country.  It is
situated in 20 degrees 10 minutes South latitude, 34 degrees 30 minutes
East longitude.  The country at the back of the town is hilly, occupied
by the Mandowa tribe, and is more healthy.  The river Bozi flows through
it to the sea, well-wooded with fine timber and bush.  Elephants,
rhinoceros, and large game abound.  Rice, cotton, spices of all kinds,
oranges, lemons, citrons, bananas, figs, and wild fruit.  I was told
that Umzela, the chief who occupies the country south, claims as
paramount chief all those districts in the north, down to the Mandanda
region; but his claim is something similar to that of the Portuguese,
who lay claim to all South Africa to the Atlantic Ocean, from Sofala.
He must be content to put up with such regions as he now has power to
govern; and those countries north of Birue are independent, except such
portions along the coast and up the Zambese as the Portuguese have the
power to rule, which is not much beyond the guns at their so-called
forts.  With respect to any extensive or strong stone remains of ancient
cities, supposed to have belonged to the love-sick Queen, there are
none, beyond those that have been erected without mortar.  If this
district formed part of her kingdom where she resided, her palace must
have been small, and of no account.  If substantial buildings had been
erected, they would surely be there now, as the natives with the means
at their disposal could not have destroyed them; but what is so
remarkable is that no relics have been found of any kind, no rubbish
left where they may have stood.  The only one I discovered was in a
stream of the Sabia, where the copper beads were found.  It was an oval
piece of copper, the size of a sixpence, and as thick, with much defaced
marks on both sides that cannot be made out, being so much worn.  To
pronounce it a coin would be premature.  When the country is properly
prospected, there may be found sufficient evidence to settle this
long-disputed question; but if extensive ruins existed, the natives
would know, and it would soon have reached the ears of travellers that
have passed through that country.  There must be some foundation for
these ancient traditional reports.  The country shows that in remote
times gold in large quantities has been extracted from the earth, and if
it is so easily found in the rivers, why should not nuggets have been
found lying on the surface, which first drew the attention of the
ancients to look for it.  The name of the river flowing through this
region, the "Sabia," may have been changed by time from "Sheba," the
same as "Sofala" for "S'Ophir."  There is also a ruin called Piza, and
another Manica, two names foreign to the other names of the country; and
the region of Monomotapa may have received its name from some early
inhabitants, descendants of the people under this renowned queen.  At
present nothing is definite on this point, and the magnificence of her
palaces have been, much overrated in ancient history.  If this was the
real Ophir of Solomon, the Arabs along the coast and at Sofala believe
this to be the true Ophir, Umzela was the great chief of all that part
of the country known as the Birue, Quitive, Sofala, and Mandanda
regions.  His chief kraal, Utshani, is situated in 20 degrees 27 minutes
South latitude, 32 degrees 28 minutes East longitude, between lofty
hills, the altitude being 3180 feet by aneroid barometer, and it is
situated on the upper source of the Buzi river, which flows in a
north-east direction and enters the Indian Ocean on the north of the
town and port of Sofala.  The country is very fertile, and the banks of
the Sabia on the west of the town, through which that river meanders in
a south direction, is flanked by high and picturesque hills, and clothed
in all the beauty of tropical vegetation.  Mahogany, ebony, untanto,
palm, umchani, maparri, umsimbili, bananas, assagaai or lance wood,
barrie, boschlemon, wild almond, kajaten (a fine black wood), knopjes
doorn, wild olive, saffraan, fig, cabbage tree, makwakwe (the strychnine
of the country), vitboom (quinine), india-rubber, and a host of other
sorts that would fill a page if named, all most valuable for various
purposes.  Large flocks of sheep and goats and herds of cattle are
reared.  There is also the large game, such as elephants, rhinoceros,
giraffes, buffaloes, koodoos, and other large antelopes, lions, tigers,
wolves, jackals, tiger-cats in plenty, beside the various earth-animals,
ant-bears, porcupines, armadillos, and many others.  Umzela's territory
is called Umselayon, which embraces all those districts above described.
The mountains which completely encircle the chief's kraal are very
picturesque and peculiar in their form, making the Sinika river a
tributary of the Buzi; which forms in its course almost a circle,
thickly studded with fine timber and bush, and they do not extend much
beyond the river towards the east, which is a low, flat country to the
sea.  The Portuguese have no control over any part of Umzela's
territory; they only hold possession of narrow slips of land along parts
of the coast.  The natives offered no opposition to my visits, and were
willing to barter food for articles of clothing, principally linen
cloth; but in many other portions of the country I had to use great
caution to prevent suspicion as to the object of my visits.  In many
cases I have passed through tribes who would have been troublesome, but
as I took goods to barter I was considered a trader, and as such one can
journey almost anywhere.  Some considered also I was a doctor or
medicine-man, because I caught and preserved insects, snakes, and other
small reptiles, besides plants.  When this idea takes possession of some
of the African races, they leave you unmolested; any injury they might
inflict would be considered unlucky to themselves.  I used to carry
representations of snakes of wood, that are sold in England, and masks
with extensive noses, so that when the natives came round my waggon
begging, as they frequently did, from two to three hundred at a time, I
would draw down the front sail of the waggon, slip inside, put on one of
these masks, and with the snake curling about in my hand jump out in
their midst, when the women and children would rush away howling, the
men after them, to their kraals, and I would be left free from
annoyance.  During my stay at their station, before I could obtain these
things, I used a large burning-glass, and when any one troubled me,
would burn their hand until it began to pain.  Then I would run after
others, which soon cleared them off.  Travelling past their kraals so
frequently they knew my waggon, and if they pestered me for presents I
had only to get out my sun-glass, and they were away in no time.

The only rivers of consequence beside the Sabia and the Buzi in this
portion of Umzela's country are the Umkoni, Umswelise, Umtschomie,
Gerongosi, the source of which rises not far from the Buzi, runs east,
and enters the Indian Ocean, about twenty miles south of Sofala.  The
Lusuti rises with several branches about thirty miles to the north of
Umzela's kraal, and joins the Buzi sixty miles from its mouth.  There is
also the Haroni and its tributary the Lusiti, and the small river Donde
that flows into the Sofala harbour.  South of the Mandanda region are
the districts of Sheshonga, Indobolini, Mashelbe, and Makalingi.  To the
east is the Manklin district, that takes the coast-line from Maramone
Bay, down south to Cape Lady Grey, off which are the islands of
Bazaruta, Benguela, Sigin, and a small group at Cape St. Sebastian.  To
the north of Maramone Bay, some thirty miles, are the two great islands
of Chuluwan.  All the coast-line is flat, infested with the tsetse-fly,
and most unhealthy.  The Mandowa tribe occupy the hill district and
country inland from Sofala, and it is under the rule of Umzela, and is
in charge of Imbasugwar, one of his chief men.

Manukuza, father of Umzela, is a Zulu from Zululand, who fled from
Chaka, the great Zulu king.  His followers are called Mongonis, and all
the tribes under him, viz.  Basigo, Kulu, Mandanda, Cholee, and
Mandower, are called Tonges.  Deloms, a chief of Umzela, is over the
district of Mazibbe, and Sondaba, an Indian, over Sheshongi, which is on
the south side of the Sabia.  The country is flat and marshy, and full
of game.  Rhinoceros, elephants, koodoos, giraffes, wildebeest, wild
hogs, and nearly all the antelope tribe, and zebras.  Date and other
palms, bananas, jute, and wild cotton, beside many native fruits abound.

A very poisonous plant grows on the flats, from which the natives
extract, from the seed, poison to put on their assagais and arrows.

[This poison is the strongest known.  An eminent toxicologist, who in
distilling became inoculated with it through a slight scratch.  He was
nearly dying for six weeks, and said he had no idea that any poison
could be so strong; it would kill a man in three minutes, and an
elephant in one hour and a half.  The flesh of animals killed by it is
not poisonous.  It loses its strength by evaporation in about a year.]

The country in places is noted for its immense ant-hills, almost as
large as those I have described in another part of this work.  The
southern boundary of Umzela's territory is not at present ascertained;
the country south of that already described is known under the name of
Umhlenga, where the Queen Mafussi, of Inhoxe, rules a portion, which is
a vast, open, undulating country, through which the Limpopo flows for
over 200 miles to the sea, at Port Alice.  The Lundi river, a tributary
of the Sabia, joins it in Umzela's country.  It is the continuation of
the Ingwesi, mentioned in the Mashona description.  To the south of this
region, and inland from the town and port of Inhambane, is the region
called Makwakwa or Marangwe--a strong, powerful race of the same tribe
as the Chobis, Bala Kulu, Basiga, Mashongonini, and Mandandas.
Inhambane is situated on the sea-coast.  The territory is very narrow,
not exceeding twenty miles inland, and eighty miles along the coast.

A small river, the Inyanombi, falls into the bay, and the river Zavara
drains the country of the Makwakwa's tribe--a low, flat region.  There
is still a tribe occupying a part of Umzela's territory that call
themselves the powerful Makololo race, of the same family that ruled an
extensive region on the Zambese river above the Victoria Falls, and
became a terror to the neighbouring tribes.  The Barutse people fought
and nearly exterminated them, scattering those left far and wide amongst
other tribes, and broke up the race entirely.  This Makololo nation on
the Zambese extended as far as that white tribe mentioned, living on the
Quito and upper portion of the Cubango--now become mixed with the black
races, and from reports, a wild and savage race, eating human flesh.
May not these two tribes have travelled up the Zambese together at some
remote time?  It seems singular that the Makololos in Umzela's country
should call themselves the once-powerful Makololo tribe; and we find
them on the Upper Zambese, the most powerful tribe in all that central
part of Africa, 400 miles away from those in Umzela's land.  It is an
interesting study to trace the various periods, as they advanced south
from Egypt, and to find at the present time many Arabian and Jewish
customs amongst them; and another interesting feature of those races is
that many names of places in Central Africa are precisely similar to
many names in the islands of the South Pacific Ocean.  So far as is
known of this country, we come across limestone, slate shale, red
sandstone, green stone, quartz, porphyritic rocks, gravel, and on the
western slope of the highlands, granites.

Referring again to the land of Ophir, there are no black races in any
other part of Africa that allow a woman to rule over them; but in the
immediate neighbourhood of Sofala there are three queens, viz.  Queen
Mafussi over Inhoaxe, adjoining Umzela's territory, and immediately on
the south of her are the two Queens Majaji and Mescharoon.  May not this
be one identification, that it was right that woman should be a ruler as
well as man, handed down from the Queen of Sheba's time?  Also a large
portion of Madagascar is ruled over by an Arab race that must have
settled there a very long time ago.  Their language is Arabic, and
queens of that island have and do now rule the greater portion of it.

CHAPTER TWENTY FIVE.

THE PORTUGUESE POSSESSIONS ON THE EAST COAST, WITHIN SOUTH CENTRAL
AFRICA.

The earliest records we have of this coast-line is from the Portuguese,
who first sailed round the Cape to the north, as far as the Mozambique
coast, in 1497, under Vasco de Gama.  In 1508 they visited the coast
again and conquered Sofala, and soon after Quilimane, Inhambane, and
Delagoa Bay, where they built a fort at Lorenzo Marques in the inner
harbour, and took possession of the coast northwards, including the
mouth of the Zambese and both banks of that river beyond Tette, where
they formed a town, claiming the country far in, up the river and along
the coast, but at the present time they have no jurisdiction over it,
beyond a few miles of the coast, the natives not allowing any
interference with their rights beyond the reach of their guns at the
forts.

Up to 1875 the Portuguese only held the northern portion of Delagoa Bay,
down as far south as the 26 degrees South latitude, and half of the
island of Inyack; the English Government disputing their claim to any
territory south of the 26 degrees, and the southern portion of Inyack
was held by the British Government.  Much correspondence passed between
the two Governments, when it was referred to arbitration, and Marshal
MacMahon, then President of the French Republic, decided in July, 1875,
that the Portuguese had a right to the country down to 26 degrees 30
minutes South latitude, which included the whole of the bay and island
of Inyack--to the exclusion of British interests.  The boundary then
laid down as the southern limit of Portugal should follow that latitude
up to the Lobombo mountain, which borders on Swaziland, an independent
chief.

Following the mountain north to the middle of the lower part of the
Comatie river, where it flows through that mountain, from thence in a
north-east direction to Pokionies Kap, on the north side of the Olifant
river, where it passes through the mountain north-west by north, to the
nearest point of the Stricundo mountain, on the Umzim Voobo river, then
in a straight line north to the junction of the Pafarie river with the
Limpopo.  All on the west of this line is the Transvaal boundary.  This
is the boundary on paper and maps, but the Portuguese have no more
jurisdiction over the country north of 25 degrees between the sea and
the Transvaal boundary, than they have over Umzela's territory, with the
exception of a small portion along the coast to the Zambese river, and
up that river to Tette.  The Barpeda tribes, east of the Transvaal, are
divided into many classes, ruled over by independent chiefs.

The country at the back of Delagoa Bay is a flat unhealthy country for
forty miles inland, when it begins to rise, until the summit of the
Lobombo mountain is reached.  The river Lorenzo Marques, which enters
the inner harbour at Delagoa Bay, is navigable for small craft for forty
miles up.  The region to the north of that harbour, through which the
lower portion of the river Limpopo passes, is a low flat country, full
of bush, and most unhealthy.  The tsetse-fly swarms.  Large game is
plentiful over all this region.  The southern portion is called Gasa;
the northern, Umhlenga--already described.  The entrance of the Limpopo
river is in 25 degrees 17 minutes South latitude, and about three miles
broad, which it continues to be up to the junction of the Olifant river,
gradually narrowing towards the north.  It is full of hippopotami and
alligators that grow to an enormous size, and several kinds of fish.

Lorenzo Marques is the capital of the Portuguese possessions in East
Africa; for some distance along the coast it is a dirty unhealthy place.
The fort mounts a few old guns, and is the governor's residence.
Several stores are kept by Portuguese natives and one or two English.
The inner harbour, upon which the town is built on the north bank, is
picturesque.  Tropical trees of many varieties grow: cocoa-nuts, palms,
bananas, lemons, oranges, beside vegetables; but the inhabitants are a
lazy set of people, and the town or country will never improve under its
present Government.

The islands of Imyack and Elephant command the entrance of the outer
bay, and the islands at the mouth of the Uncomasi or King George's
river, Krocodil, and Sabia, that rise in the Transvaal south of
Lydenburg, which has never been thoroughly explored.  The coast-line
from Delagoa Bay to Inhambane is likewise little-known, as also between
that port and Sofala, and north to the Zambese river.  The principal
towns in the Portuguese possessions on the east coast are Lorenzo
Marques, Inhambane, Sofala, and the two small river towns up the
Zambese, Senna and Tette.  Steamers occasionally touch at all the coast
towns named, on their way to Zanzibar from Natal.

Quilimane is situated on the north of the Zambese river, upon one of its
branches, where a Portuguese governor resides for that district.

Another Sabia flows into the ocean near Sofala.

CHAPTER TWENTY SIX.

A CURSORY GLANCE AT THOSE PORTS OF SOUTH AFRICA THAT OCCUPY THE EXTREME
SOUTH OF THE AFRICAN CONTINENT, SOUTH OF SOUTH CENTRAL AFRICA.

South of South Central Africa, which has comprised my field, of
exploration, is the Colony of the Cape of Good Hope, which takes in the
whole of the southern peninsula of the African continent, from the
Orange river to Cape Agulhas, and extends towards the east as far as
Natal.  It is divided into the eastern and western provinces and
Griqualand West.  Cape Town is the seat of Government and the capital,
and is governed by a High Commissioner and Governor, a Ministry and
Legislative Council, and a House of Assembly, both elected.  The
Governor is appointed by the British Government.

The principal ports are Table Bay at Cape Town, False Bay, including
Simon's Town, and the naval station of the colony, Mossel Bay, Algoa Bay
at Port Elizabeth, East London, and a few small bays along the coast.

The principal rivers are the Orange, Caledon, Kraai, Zeekoe, Buffalo,
draining Little Namaqualand, Olifant, Berg rivers draining the district
of Malmesbury, Zout river draining Koeberg and neighbourhood.  Easters
river enters False Bay, Londerende river drains part of Swellendam and
Worcester districts, Gawirtz and its tributaries drain the George,
Worcester, and Beaufort districts, and several small streams up to
Zwartkops, that enters the sea a few miles to the north-east of Port
Elizabeth.  Following up the coast are Samdays, Bushman, Kowie, Great
Fish river, Kaga, Koonap, Kat, Keiskama, Buffalo, Great Kei, White Kei,
Indwa, Tosmo (which drains the country round Queen's Town and part of
Kaffraria), Bashee, Umtata, Umzimvobo, and Umzimcula; not one of them is
navigable from the great fall they take in their course to the sea, and
they have deep water in them only after heavy rains, which is the case
with all the rivers in this colony.

There are several mountain ranges, viz.  Table mountain at the back of
Cape Town, 3500 feet above sea-level.  Stormberg, Zwagerskook,
Winterberg, Amatola, and their spurs, and many others of less note.
Some of them are 8000 feet above sea-level.  On the eastern border in
Noman's-land is the Drakensberg, that divides this colony from Natal,
having its lofty head 10,000 feet above sea-level, where the grand
scenery is rarely to be equalled in any part of South Africa.
Noman's-land or Griqualand East, principally occupied by the Griqua
tribe who left Camphill ground and took up their residence in that fine
rich country.

Numerous vleis and pans, some extensive, many are dry the greater part
of the year.  The largest is Commissioner's pan, in what is called
Bushmanland, some twenty miles in circumference, and contains a crust of
salt on the dry bed, where there is no water in it.  There are salt-pans
near Uitenhage, Cradock, and Betheldorp, beside many fresh-water pans of
considerable extent, but they are becoming dryer every year, as also the
fountains: many of them thirty years ago gave out a copious supply, and
at the present time are small streams.  Verkeerde vlei, close to the
Karroo Port, water is generally found in it, as also Vogel vlei, no
great distance from the Berg river.  Nearly every other vlei may be
termed pans, being so shallow, they are scarcely distinguishable from
the surrounding country; so impregnated is the soil with salt that many
springs and fountains have a brackish taste, and this is the case all
over the southern part of the African continent, which indicates that at
one time it had a close connection with the ocean.

Several mineral springs in the Cape Colony, both hot and cold.  A
chalybeate spring at the foot of the Kradoun mountain on the eastern
slope with a temperature of 110 degrees.  Hot springs at Montague,
Winterberg, Caledon, Malmesbury, Olifant, and one near Breed river,
which is found to rise to a temperature of 156 degrees.

The mineral wealth of the colony is not known.  Copper is found in large
quantities in Little Namaqualand, near the Orange river.  Near Port
Elizabeth lead has been found.  Iron is largely distributed over many
districts, and coal has of late years been found near Stormberg,
Burghersdorp and other places, and conveyed to the diamond-fields, which
turns out to be of better quality than was at first expected, and lately
gold.

Very fine caves in the Zwarteberge range of mountains, a short distance
from Oudtshoorn village, much resorted to, for their peculiar beautiful
stalactites of limestone formation.

Many extensive forests in the colony, near the town of Clanwilliam,
Outenigera, Zitzikamma; there is also the Adda bush, dense bush along
the Amatola mountains, Kat river, and the Knysna.  To the eastward we
find the Kadoun forest, extending nearly eighty miles in length along
the sea, and some fifteen miles in width.

Deep extensive kloofs along the mountain ranges are well-timbered.  The
Great Fish river bush is very extensive, and many others along the
Buffalo mountain, Katberg, Chumie, and Boschberg, are densely wooded
with fine timber, principally yellow wood that grow to a great size.

The great Karroo desert is situated more in the western division of the
Cape Colony, lying between the mountains Bokkeveld, Wittebergen, and
Swartebergen.  In length it is from Mitchell's Pass in the south nearly
400 miles, extending northwards to the Orange river, and from east to
west over eighty, a most wretched and dried-up country; scarcely a blade
of grass to be seen.  The Karroo bush is plentiful, of which the sheep
are very fond--a dreary waste.  The main road from Cape Town to Hope
Town and Kimberley passes diagonally through its entire length, through
Mitchell's Pass, a fearful gorge of seven miles, the road cut out of the
solid sandstone rock on the left hand, with perpendicular cliffs, and on
the right a precipice of some three and four hundred feet; the only
safeguard to prevent carriages from falling over are a few large
boulders placed at long distances apart to prevent any vehicle from
going too close to the edge.  The scenery along the seven miles of this
pass is grand in the extreme, but it can only be enjoyed when on foot,
when at every few steps a halt must be made to view the bold outline of
this wild and picturesque pass.  The railway from Cape Town to Hope Town
avoids this singular formation, consequently the great traffic is
carried round in another direction, more to the east, passing through
Beaufort West and Victoria West, over a flat and barren part of the
great Karroo.  The mountain pass at Franschehoek is very fine, also
Baiu's Kloof, both possessing grand scenery.

The principal towns in the colony beside Cape Town, in degree of
importance, are Port Elizabeth, Graham's Town; the capital of the
eastern province is pleasantly situated in a fertile valley.  Victoria
East, Ceres, Beaufort West, Hope Town, close to the Orange river,
through which the railway runs to Kimberley diamond-fields.  Somerset is
situated at the foot of Boschberg mountain, one of the most picturesque
towns in the colony; Bedford is built at the fort of Kagaberg, in a rich
and valuable part of the country; Cradock, a town situated on the bank
of the Great Fish river.  Graaff Reinet is erected on the Sunday's
river, one of the most pleasant towns in the colony, situated in a
mountain region, some of them are the highest in the colony.
Compassberg is over 9200 feet above sea-level.  Sneeunbergen is another
prominent mountain range with beautiful scenery, and the town is well
laid out; the streets have oranges and other trees planted along their
sides, that add much to the general appearance of the town.  Colesberg
is situated on the main transport road from Port Elizabeth to the
diamond-fields, Kimberley, Orange Free State, and the interior.  The
railway from Port Elizabeth runs to Colesberg, from thence passengers
and goods are conveyed by passenger-carts and ox-waggons.  [A railroad
now runs through this country to Kimberley.]  The town and country are
not very inviting, a vast extent of barren open plains, that slope
towards the Orange river, of which the town is distant some eleven
miles.  Richmond, Hanover, and Middleburg are rising towns.  Aliwal
North is situated on the Orange river on the main road to the Orange
Free State and also to Kimberley.  Burghersdorp is on the Stormberg
river.  Albert is another town in this district, and is on the road from
East London to the Free State.  King William's Town, Grey Town, and East
London are in the same division; the latter is a rising port, and will
eventually be very important as a sea-port.  Queen's Town is situated on
the Indwe river, and has several native locations belonging to the
Tambookie tribe.  There are several small villages situated throughout
all these districts.  To the east is what is termed British Kaffraria,
in which the port of East London is situated on the Buffalo river.  Its
eastern boundary is the Great Kei river, separating it from Kaffirland
proper; the country is picturesque, with lofty and well-wooded hills.

The native population in British Kaffraria are mostly of the Gaika and
Amakosa Kaffirs.

The population of the Cape Colony is various.  The western province has
a greater proportion of the Boer element than the English, but in the
eastern province the English predominate.  Many Germans have settled in
the colony since the German legion has been disbanded, and form a
considerable portion of the population.  French, Swedes, Americans, and
many others from different countries, not forgetting the Chinaman.

Of the natives there are the Hottentot, whose pure breed is nearly
extinct; a few are now living on the banks of St. John's river.
Korannas, who are closely allied to the Hottentot, and are found more to
the north on the Orange river, as also the Bushman.  Griquas, a bastard
tribe, descendants of the Dutch and Hottentot women, who have their
separate captains, and live much after the Boer in habits and customs.
In the Cape Town district are many Malay from India; in fact I may say
one-fourth of the population is made up of them.  Those races that may
be termed Kaffirs are the Gaika, Gonebi, Amakosa, Slambie (who occupy
lands in British Kaffraria), Amagaleka, Amatembu in the eastern part of
Queen's Town, and the country to the east of this division on to Natal
is Kaffirland proper, known under the name Tambookies.

Railroads have been extensively increased of late years, running through
the country to all parts.  One direct from Cape Town to Port Elizabeth,
another direct to Kimberley, Worcester, Graham's Town, King William and
Queen's Town, and many other parts.

The public transport roads are in most cases good, but many that wind
over the steep mountain passes are very bad, and trying to oxen and
mules when they have heavy loads.

Griqualand West forms a portion of the Cape Colony, and is situated on
the north side of the Orange river, and as it has been fully described
in the first part of this work, in consequence of the greater portion of
it being included in South Central Africa, I have merely to state that
Kimberley, Bulfontein, De Beers and De Toitspan, the four large mines,
now form one considerable town, and may be considered the richest of any
in the colony, with a population that is not living in a sleepy hollow,
as the rest of the colony is, but showing some vitality and energy,
which has in a great measure saved the colony from ruin.

The district of Cape Town is very pretty and picturesque, well planted
with firs and other trees.  The town is well supplied with fruit of
almost every description and vegetables.  Abundance of fish are caught
in the bay.

The climate is mild and healthy; the rainy season commences in the
autumn, about May, and lasts until August.  In the summer months it is
rare to have a storm.

Wild animals are becoming very scarce; a few of the large game such as
the elephant and buffalo are preserved in the Addo, Kowie, and
Zitzchkamma forests, and may be occasionally seen going down in troops
of thirty and forty to the sea to have a bath.  A few wild beasts;
blesbok and many springbok may now be seen on the plains, and also the
ostrich.

Tigers and tiger-cats are yet plentiful in the kloofs of the mountain
ranges that extend so far through the colony.  A few sea-cow, I believe,
are still to be seen in the rivers on the eastern border, beyond East
London.

Between the eastern division of the Cape Colony, that is Kaffraria
proper, and the upper part of the Caledon river, is Basutoland, an
extensive region that joins up to Natal or Drakensberg mountain as its
eastern boundary, the north by the Caledon river and the Orange Free
State, as also a portion of its western boundary.  The country is very
mountainous, with deep and thickly wooded kloofs, making the scenery
very lovely.  Some of the hills on the Drakensberg side are 9500 feet
above sea-level.  The Basutos are a branch of the Bechuana family, of
the Barolong tribe, the same family as Montsioa, who left Basutoland
when young, and occupied the country he now holds on the Molapo river.
The small district of Thaba Nchu belonged to these people, which was
separated from Basutoland by the Free State, and in fact that state
surrounded it; and in consequence of a difference between the two
chiefs, Samuel and Sepinare Moroka (the latter being killed), President
Brand went with a force of Free State burghers and took possession of
the town and territory of Thaba Nchu, and annexed it to that state.
Samuel was the son of the old chief Moroka, the other his nephew.  When
Moroka died in 1880, the people were divided as to who should be the
chief.  There is no doubt the son had the greatest claim; he was an
educated Kaffir, having spent several years at St. Augustine's College,
Canterbury, and was in every respect a gentleman in behaviour.  He is
now a wanderer amongst his tribe.

Thaba Nchu, in 1863, was the largest native town in British South
Africa; the population then was about 9000, with mission houses and
church schools.

It was from this station, in 1837, that the Boers who escaped from the
fight with Moselikatze, joined the Barolongs to drive that chief from
Mosega, and collected a force of 1000 men.  Montsioa, the present chief,
held command of part of the expedition, and through the Basuto
assistance, the Boers managed to drive Moselikatze more to the north.
We now see the return they get for this help: their country at Thaba
Nchu taken from them, and Montsioa would have lost his, and himself and
people been murdered, if the British Government had not stepped in at
the eleventh hour and saved them.  Basutoland, which is separated from
Thaba Nchu, is now under British protection, and is one of the finest
wheat-growing countries in South Africa, and the natives, if they had
been let alone, would have remained at peace, as they were growing rich
in supplying the diamond-fields with corn.  But as their country joins
for such a distance to the Free State, which is occupied by a Boer
population, it is impossible for them to remain in peace for long, for
no tribe, however peacefully inclined the people may be, can with Boers
on their border remain so long, as the latter have many ways of causing
a disturbance, which we have so frequently witnessed, as in the case of
Montsioa and Monkuruan, and the only way to prevent any further trouble
in that country was for the British Government to take it under their
protection.  Thaba Bosigo is their principal town and one of their
mission stations.

The Orange Free State occupies the whole of that part of Africa lying
between the Cape Colony, Basutoland, Natal, and the Transvaal.
Bloomfontein is the capital and seat of Government.  Mr. Brand is the
President, now Sir John Brand, with a Volksraad to carry on the
Government, and contains within its area about 55,000 square miles.

The principal rivers are the Vaal, Orange, and Caledon, that form the
boundary.  The tributaries of the Vaal are the Likwa spruit, the
north-east boundary, Klip, Welge, Rhenoster, Valsch, Vet, Modder, and
Keit.

The principal towns are Harrismith, situated on the north-east portion
of the State, about twenty-five miles north of the Drakensberg range,
the boundary of Natal, and on the main transport roads from Natal to the
diamond-fields, Bloomfontein, Potchefstroom, and Pretoria in the
Transvaal; also Winburg, Cronstad, Boschof, Keckstad, Fauresmith, and
many others of lesser note.

The country is almost one unbroken open grass plain, very scarce of
wood; in some parts there are long stretches of thorn, principally
mimosa bush, but the demand for wood at the diamond-fields is so great
that in a few years there will be scarcely a stick worth cutting, as the
price for a waggon-load of wood varies from ten to thirty pounds.  A
large proportion of the population in the various towns are English and
other nationalities.

The climate in winter is cold, but dry.  The elevation averages 4500
feet above sea-level, which is the cause.  Fortunately the winters are
dry.  The rainy season is from November to April.  In the summer months
very severe thunderstorms pass over the country.  Generally there is a
great want of water previous to the rainy season, and many cattle die
from cold and starvation.  Game, twenty years ago, was plentiful, and
also lions; but only a few blesbok, wildebeest, and springbok are to be
met with.  Some of the farmers have now begun to preserve them on their
farms, otherwise they would have long since disappeared from the
country.  Lions have all been destroyed, but a few wolves are still
left.  In parts of the country there are some very pretty localities,
where the woods are preserved, and occasionally may be seen several
hundred baboons visiting those parts for the gum, of which they are very
fond.  Many of them are of great size; they may be heard a long
distance, as they pass with their half-human grunts, and it would be
dangerous for any single individual unarmed to come across their path.

It is impossible for any great improvement to be made in the present
state of affairs in the State.  The country is too poor, and with very
little chance of its ever becoming richer, with such a lack of energy
for advancing in civilisation as is in the Boer character.

The British colony of Natal is situated on the coast, and joins on to
the Cape Colony at its extreme eastern boundary, called Kaffirland
proper, and Griqualand East as also Basutoland.  To the north it joins
up to the Orange Free State, and the Transvaal, the Drakensberg mountain
dividing it from them.  On the eastern side, Zululand is separated from
it by the Tugela and the Buffalo rivers.  It has a coast-line of 150
miles.  The extreme northern point is in 27 degrees 25 minutes South
latitude, down to 31 degrees 10 minutes.  The extreme western point is
in 29 degrees 4 minutes, to 31 degrees 30 minutes, being the eastern
point at the mouth of the Tugela, where Zululand joins it.

It is governed by a Lieutenant-Governor, and Executive and Legislative
Councils.  The principal town is Maritzburg, situated about fifty miles
inland from the port of Durban.  The latter has become an important
town, where all the shipping trade is carried on for the colony and the
interior.  On the main transport road to the Free State and Transvaal
are Howick, close to the Umgeni waterfall, Weston, Estcourt, Colenzo,
Ladysmith, and Newcastle.  East of Maritzburg is Richmond; north of
Durban is Pinetown, and many others in various parts of the country.

The mountain range on the western boundary, and on its northern, called
the Drakensberg, are the highest of any of the mountains of South
Africa, and it possesses some of the finest scenery in this part of the
world.  The loftiest peaks are 10,000 feet above sea-level.  The general
elevation of the upper portion of the colony is 4000 feet, sloping
gradually until it reaches the coast-line.

The climate is very healthy, both in summer and winter, and very mild.
The coast region is more tropical from its being less elevated than the
up-country; many extensive sugar plantations are cultivated, and the
Natal sugar has become an important article of commerce.  Coffee,
tobacco, indigo, tea, arrowroot, various kinds of spices, all kinds of
garden vegetables, tomato, yams, pineapple, and other tropical fruits.
Cotton is cultivated also.

Maritzburg is the seat of Government, and the principal military
station.  Railways are now pushing their way up towards Newcastle.  When
I knew the colony in 1860 the principal mode of conveyance was by
bullock-waggons and passenger-carts.  The colonists are now going in for
preserving fruits, which are highly prized for their delicious flavour.

There is some very fine building stone, particularly the marble found
near Alfreda.  Coal is found at Newcastle and Biggarsberg.  Iron is
distributed largely all over the country, and copper has also been
discovered.  Limestone has been found on the Bushman river and Upper
Tugela.  Slate is also found in several parts, and on the Bushman river,
in which are beautiful specimens of fossil ferns.  Altogether, Natal is
a pleasant and healthy colony, but the native population being so large,
now reaching to near 400,000, against a white population of something
under 30,000, is a drawback to the whole of the country being profitably
utilised, as it would otherwise be, if the colour was reversed.  And one
does not see what the end is to be, as Natal cannot carry a dense white
population whilst the Kaffirs live and increase nearly as rapidly as the
whites.

Gold will probably settle the question, as the bulk of the Kaffirs
remaining will be crowded out, and a small population of white men will
remain and feed the gold-diggers in the Transvaal and beyond.

The End.