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THE LONDON and COUNTRY BREWER

By Anonymous

1736

Containing an Account,

I.     Of the Nature of the Barley-Corn, and of the proper Soils and
       Manures for the Improvement thereof.

II.    Of making good Malts.

III.   To know good from bad Malts.

IV.    Of the Use of the Pale, Amber, and Brown Malts.

V.     Of the Nature of several Waters, and their Use in Brewing.

VI.    Of Grinding Malts.

VII.   Of Brewing in general.

VIII.  Of the _London_ Method of Brewing Stout, But-Beer, Pale and Brown
       Ales.

IX.    Of the Country or Private Way of Brewing.

X.     Of the Nature and Use of the Hop.

XI.    Of Boiling Malt liquors, and to Brew a Quantity of Drink in a little
       Room, and with a few Tubs.

XII.   Of Foxing or Tainting of Malt Liquors; their Prevention and Cure.

XIII.  Of Fermenting and Working of Beers and Ales, and the unwholesome
       Practice of Beating in the Yeast, detected.

XIV.   Of several artificial Lees for feeding, fining, preserving, and
       relishing Malt Liquors.

XV.    Of several pernicious Ingredients put into Malt Liquors to encrease
       their Strength.

XVI.   Of the Cellar or Repository for keeping Beers and Ales.

XVII.  Of Sweetening and Cleaning Casks.

XVIII. Of Bunging Casks and Carrying them to some Distance.

XIX.   Of the Age and Strength of Malt Liquors.

XX.    Of the Profit and Pleasure of Private Brewing and the Charge of
       Buying Malt Liquors.

To which is added,

XXI.   A Philosophical Account of Brewing Strong _October_ Beer.
       By an Ingenious Hand.

By a Person formerly concerned in a Common Brewhouse at _London_, but for
twenty Years past has resided in the Country.

The SECOND EDITION, Corrected.

LONDON

Printed for Messeurs Fox, at the _Half-Moon and Seven Stars_, in
_Westminster-Hall_.  M.DCC.XXXVI.

[Price Two Shillings.]

THE PREFACE.

The many Inhabitants of Cities and Towns, as well as Travellers, that have
for a long time suffered great Prejudices from unwholsome and unpleasant
Beers and Ales, by the badness of Malts, underboiling the Worts, mixing
injurious Ingredients, the unskilfulness of the Brewer, and the great
Expense that Families have been at in buying them clogg'd with a heavy
Excise, has moved me to undertake the writing of this Treatise on Brewing,
Wherein I have endeavour'd to set in sight the many advantages of Body
and Purse that may arise from a due Knowledge and Management in Brewing
Malt Liquors, which are of the greatest Importance, as they are in a
considerable degree our Nourishment and the common Diluters of our Food;
so that on their goodness depends very much the Health and Longevity of
the Body.

This bad Economy in Brewing has brought on such a Disrepute, and made our
Malt Liquors in general so odious, that many have been constrain'd, either
to be at an Expence for better Drinks than their Pockets could afford, or
take up with a Toast and Water to avoid the too justly apprehended ill
Consequences of Drinking such Ales and Beers.

Wherefore I have given an Account of Brewing Beers and Ales after several
Methods; and also several curious Receipts for feeding, fining and
preserving Malt Liquors, that are most of them wholsomer than the Malt
itself, and so cheap that none can object against the Charge, which I
thought was the ready way to supplant the use of those unwholsome
Ingredients that have been made too free with by some ill principled
People meerly for their own Profit, tho' at the Expence of the Drinker's
Health.

_I hope I have adjusted that long wanted Method of giving a due Standard
both to the Hop and Wort, which never was yet (as I know of) rightly
ascertain'd in Print before, tho' the want of it I am perswaded has been
partly the occasion of the scarcity of good Drinks, as is at this time
very evident in most Places in the Nation. I have here also divulg'd the
Nostrum of the Artist Brewer that he has so long valued himself upon, in
making a right Judgment when the Worts are boiled to a true Crisis; a
matter of considerable Consequence, because all strong Worts may be boiled
too much or too little to the great Loss of the Owner, and without this
Knowledge a Brewer must go on by Guess; which is a hazard that every one
ought to be free from that can; and therefore I have endeavor'd to explode
the old Hour-glass way of Brewing, by reason of the several Uncertainties
that attend such Methods and the hazard of spoiling both Malt and Drink;
for in short where a Brewing is perform'd by Ladings over of scalding
Water, there is no occasion for the Watch or Hour-glass to boil the Wort
by, which is best known by the Eye, as I have both in this and my second
Book made appear.

I have here observed that necessary Caution, which is perfectly requisite
in the Choice of good and the Management of bad Waters; a Matter of high
Importance, as the Use of this Vehicle is unavoidable in Brewing, and
therefore requires a strict Inspection into its Nature; and this I have
been the more particular in, because I am sensible of the great Quantities
of unwholsome Waters used not only by Necessity, but by a mistaken Choice.

So also I have confuted the old received Opinion lately published by an
Eminent Hand, that long Mashings are the best Methods in Brewing; an Error
of dangerous Consequence to all those who brew by Ladings over of the hot
Water on the Malt.

The great Difficulty and what has hitherto proved an Impediment and
Discouragement to many from Brewing their own Drinks, I think, I have in
some measure removed, and made it plainly appear how a Quantity of Malt
Liquor may be Brewed in a little Room and in the hottest Weather, without
the least Damage by Foxing or other Taint.

The Benefit of Brewing entire Guile small Beer from fresh Malt, and the
ill Effects of that made from Goods after strong Beer or Ale; I have here
exposed, for the sake of the Health and Pleasure of those that may easily
prove their advantage by drinking of the former and refusing the latter.

By the time the following Treatise is read over and thoroughly considered,
I doubt not but an ordinary Capacity will be in some degree a better Judge
of good and bad Malt Liquors as a Drinker, and have such a Knowledge in
Brewing that formerly he was a stranger to; and therefore I am in great
Hopes these my Efforts will be one Principal Cause of the reforming our
Malt Liquors in most Places; and that more private Families than ever will
come into the delightful and profitable Practice of Brewing their own
Drinks, and thereby not only save almost half in half of Expence, but
enjoy such as has passed thro' its regular Digestions, and is truly
pleasant, fine, strong and healthful.

I Question not but this Book will meet with some Scepticks, who being
neither prejudiced against the Introduction of new Improvements, or that
their Interests will be hereby eclipsed in time; To such I say I do not
write, because I have little hopes to reform a wrong Practice in them by
Reason and Argument. But those who are above Prejudice may easily judge of
the great Benefits that will accrue by the following Methods, I have here
plainly made known, and of those in my Second Book that I have almost
finished and hope to publish in a little time, wherein I shall set forth
how to Brew without boiling Water or Wort, and several other Ways that
will be of considerable Service to the World._

CHAP. I.

_Of the Nature of the Barley-Corn, and of the proper Soils and Manures for
the Improvement thereof_.

This Grain is well known to excel all others for making of Malts that
produce those fine _British_ Liquors, Beer and Ale, which no other Nation
can equalize; But as this Excellency cannot be obtain'd unless the several
Ingredients are in a perfect State and Order, and these also attended with
a right judgment; I shall here endeavour to treat on their several
particulars, and first of Soils.

This Grain I annually sow in my Fields on diversities of Soils, and
thereby have brought to my knowledge several differences arising
therefrom. On our Red Clays this Grain generally comes off reddish at both
ends, and sometimes all over, with a thick skin and tuff nature, somewhat
like the Soil it grows in, and therefore not so valuable as that of
contrary qualities, nor are the black blewish Marly Clays of the Vale much
better, but Loams are, and Gravels better than them, as all the Chalks are
better then Gravels; on these two last Soils the Barley acquires a whitish
Body, a thin skin, a short plump kernel, and a (unreadable) flower,
which occasions those, fine pale and amber Malts made at _Dunstable_,
_Tring_ and _Dagnal_ from the Barley that comes off the white and gravelly
Grounds about those Places; for it is certain there is as much difference
in Barley as in Wheat or other Grain, from the sort it comes off, as
appears by the excellent Wheats that grow in the marly vale Earths, Peas
in Sands, and Barley in Gravels and Chalks, &c. For our Mother Earth, as
it is destinated to the service of Man in the production of Vegetables, is
composed of various sorts of Soils for different Seeds to grow therein.
And since Providence has been pleased to allow Man this great privilege
for the imployment of his skill and labour to improve the same to his
advantage; it certainly behoves us to acquaint ourselves with its several
natures, and how to adapt an agreeable Grain and Manure to their natural
Soil, as being the very foundation of enjoying good and bad Malts. This is
obvious by parallel Deductions from Turneps sown on rank clayey loamy
Grounds, dressed with noxious Dungs that render them bitter, tuff, and
nauseous, while those that grow on Gravels, Sands and Chalky Loams under
the assistance of the Fold, or Soot, Lime, Ashes, Hornshavings, &c. are
sweet (unreadable) and pleasant. 'Tis the same also with salads,
Asparagus, Cabbages, Garden-beans and all other culinary Ware, that come
off those rich Grounds glutted with the great quantities of _London_ and
other rank Dungs which are not near so pure, sweet and wholsome, as those
produced from Virgin mould and other healthy Earths and Manures.

There is likewise another reason that has brought a disreputation on some
of the Chiltern-barley, and that is, the too often sowing of one and the
same piece of Ground, whereby its spirituous, nitrous and sulphureous
qualities are exhausted and worn out, by the constant attraction of its
best juices for the nutriment of the Grain: To supply which, great
quantities of Dungs are often incorporated with such Earths, whereby they
become impregnated with four, adulterated, unwholsome qualities, that so
affect the Barley that grows therein, as to render it incapable of making
such pure and sweet Malts, as that which is sown in the open
Champaign-fields, whose Earths are constantly rested every third Year
called the Fallow-season, in order to discharge their crude, phlegmatick
and sour property, by the several turnings that the Plough gives them part
of a Winter and one whole Summer, which exposes the rough, clotty loose
parts of the Ground, and by degrees brings them into a condition of making
a lodgment of those saline benefits that arise from the Earths, and
afterwards fall down, and redound so much to the benefit of all Vegetables
that grow therein, as being the essence and spring of Life to all things
that have root, and tho' they are first exhaled by the Sun in vapour from
the Earth as the spirit or breath thereof, yet is it return'd again in
Snows, Hails, Dews, etc. more than in Rains, by which the surface of the
Globe is saturated; from whence it reascends in the juices of Vegetables,
and enters into all those productions as food, and nourishment, which the
Creation supplies.

Here then may appear the excellency of steeping Seed-barley in a liquor
lately invented, that impregnates and loads it with Nitre and other Salts
that are the nearest of all others to the true and original Spirit or Salt
of the Earth, and therefore in a great measure supplies the want thereof
both in inclosure and open Field; for even in this last it is sometimes
very scarce, and in but small quantities, especially after a hot dry
Summer and mild Winter, when little or no Snows have fell to cover the
Earth and keep this Spirit in; by which and great Frosts it is often much
encreased and then shews itself in the warmth of well Waters, that are
often seen to wreak in the cold Seasons. Now since all Vegetables more or
less partake of those qualities that the Soil and Manures abound with in
which they grow; I therefore infer that all Barley so imbibed, improves
its productions by the ascension of those saline spirituous particles that
are thus lodged in the Seed when put into the Ground, and are part of the
nourishment the After-Crop enjoys; and for this reason I doubt not, but
when time has got the ascendant of prejudice, the whole Nation will come
into the practice of the invaluable Receipt published in two Books,
entituled, _Chiltern and Vale Farming Explained_, and, _The Practical
Farmer_; both writ by _William Ellis_ of _Little Gaddesden_ near
_Hempstead_ in _Hertfordshire_, not only for Barley, but other Grains.

But notwithstanding Barley may grow on a light Soil with a proper Manure;
and improved by the liquor of this Receipt, yet this Grain may be damaged
or spoiled by being mown too soon, which may afterwards be discovered by
its shrivelled and lean body that never will make right good Malt; or if
it is mown at a proper time, and if it be housed damp, or wettish, it will
be apt to heat and mow-burn, and then it will never make so good Malt,
because it will not spire, nor come so regularly on the floor as that
which was inned dry.

Again, I have known one part of a Barley-crop almost green at Harvest,
another part ripe, and another part between both, tho' it was all sown at
once, occasion'd by the several situations of the Seed in the Ground, and
the succeeding Droughts. The deepest came up strong and was ripe soonest,
the next succeeded; but the uppermost, for want of Rain and Cover, some of
it grew not at all, and the rest was green at Harvest. Now these
irregularities are greatly prevented and cured by the application of the
ingredients mentioned in the Receipt, which infuses such a moisture into
the body of the Seed, as with the help of a little Rain and the many Dews,
makes it spire, take root and grow, when others are ruined for want of the
assistance of such steeping.

Barley like other Grain will also degenerate, and become rank, lean and
small bodied, if the same Seed is sown too often in the Soil; 'tis
therefore that the best Farmers not only change the Seed every time, but
take due care to have it off a contrary Soil that they sow it in to; this
makes several in my neighbourhood every Year buy their Barley-seed in the
Vale of _Ailsbury_, that grew there on the black clayey marly Loams, to
sow in Chalks, Gravels, &c. Others every second Year will go from hence to
_Fullham_ and buy the Forward or Rath-ripe Barley that grows there on
Sandy-ground; both which Methods are great Improvements of this Corn, and
whether it be for sowing or malting, the plump, weighty and white
Barley-corn, is in all respects much kinder than the lean flinty Sorts.

CHAP. II

_Of making_ Malts.

As I have described the Ground that returns the best Barley, I now come to
treat of making it into Malt; to do which, the Barley is put into a leaden
or tyled Cistern that holds five, ten or more Quarters, that is covered
with water four or six Inches above the Barley to allow for its Swell;
here it lyes five or six Tides as the Malster calls it, reckoning twelve
Hours to the Tide, according as the Barley is in body or in dryness; for
that which comes off Clays, or has been wash'd and damag'd by Rains,
requires less time than the dryer Grain that was inned well and grew on
Gravels or Chalks; the smooth plump Corn imbibing the water more kindly,
when the lean and steely Barley will not so naturally; but to know when it
is enough, is to take a Corn end-ways between the Fingers and gently crush
it, and if it is in all parts mellow, and the husk opens or starts a
little from the body of the Corn, then it is enough: The nicety of this is
a material Point; for if it is infus'd too much, the sweetness of the Malt
will be greatly taken off, and yield the less Spirit, and so will cause
deadness and sourness in Ale or Beer in a short time, for the goodness of
the Malt contributes much to the preservation of all Ales and Beers. Then
the water must be drain'd from it very well, and it will come equal and
better on the floor, which may be done in twelve or sixteen Hours in
temperate weather, but in cold, near thirty. From the Cistern it is put
into a square Hutch or Couch, where it must lye thirty Hours for the
Officer to take his Gage, who allows four Bushels in the Score for the
Swell in this or the Cistern, then it must be work'd Night and Day in one
or two Heaps as the weather is cold or hot, and turn'd every four, six or
eight Hours, the outward part inwards and the bottom upwards, always
keeping a clear floor that the Corn that lies next to it be not chill'd;
and as soon as it begins to come or spire, then turn it every three, four
or five Hours, as was done before according to the temper of the Air,
which greatly governs this management, and as it comes or works more, so
must the Heap be spreaded and thinned larger to cool it. Thus it may lye
and be work'd on the floor in several parallels, two or three Foot thick,
ten or more Foot broad, and fourteen or more in length to Chip and Spire;
but not too much nor too soft; and when it is come enough, it is to be
turned twelve or sixteen times in twenty-four Hours, if the Season is
warm, as in _March, April_ or _May_; and when it is fixed and the Root
begins to be dead, then it must be thickned again and carefully kept often
turned and work'd, that the growing of the Root may not revive, and this
is better done with the Shoes off than on; and here the Workman's Art and
Diligence in particular is tryed in keeping the floor clear and turning
the Malt often, that it neither moulds nor Aker-spires, that is, that the
Blade does not grow out at the opposite end of the Root; for if it does,
the flower and strength of the Malt is gone, and nothing left behind but
the Aker-spire, Husk and Tail: Now when it is at this degree and fit for
the Kiln, it is often practised to put it into a Heap and let it lye
twelve Hours before it is turned, to heat and mellow, which will much
improve the Malt if it is done with moderation, and after that time it
must be turned every six Hours during twenty four; but if it is
overheated, it will become like Grease and be spoiled, or at least cause
the Drink to be unwholsome; when this Operation is over, it then must be
put on the Kiln to dry four, six or twelve Hours, according to the nature
of the Malt, for the pale sort requires more leisure and less fire than
the amber or brown sorts: Three Inches thick was formerly thought a
sufficient depth for the Malt to lye on the Hair-cloth, but now six is
often allowed it to a fault; fourteen or sixteen Foot square will dry
about two Quarters if the Malt lyes four Inches thick, and here it should
be turned every two, three or four Hours keeping the Hair-cloth clear: The
time of preparing it from the  Cistern to the Kiln is uncertain; according
to the Season of the Year; in moderate weather three Weeks is often
sufficient. If the Exciseman takes his Gage on the floor he allows ten in
the Score, but he sometimes Gages in Cistern, Couch, Floor and Kiln, and
where he can make most, there he fixes his Charge: When the Malt is dryed,
it must not cool on the Kiln, but be directly thrown off, not into a Heap,
but spreaded wide in an airy place, till it is thoroughly cool, then put
it into a Heap or otherwise dispose of it.

There are several methods used in drying of Malts, as the Iron
Plate-frame, the Tyle-frame, that are both full of little Holes: The
Brass-wyred and Iron-wyred Frame, and the Hair-cloth; the Iron and Tyled
one, were chiefly Invented for drying of brown Malts and saving of Fuel,
for these when they come to be thorough hot will make the Corns crack and
jump by the fierceness of their heat, so that they will be roasted or
scorch'd in a little time, and after they are off the Kiln, to plump the
body of the Corn and make it take the Eye, some will sprinkle water over
it that it may meet with the better Market. But if such Malt is not used
quickly, it will slacken and lose its Spirits to a great degree, and
perhaps in half a Year or less may be taken by the Whools and spoiled:
Such hasty dryings or scorchings are also apt to bitter the Malt by
burning its skin, and therefore these Kilns are not so much used now as
formerly: The Wyre-frames indeed are something better, yet they are apt to
scorch the outward part of the Corn, that cannot be got off so soon as the
Hair-cloth admits of, for these must be swept, when the other is only
turned at once; however these last three ways are now in much request for
drying pale and amber Malts, because their fire may be kept with more
leisure, and the Malt more gradually and truer dyed, but by many the
Hair-cloth is reckoned the best of all.

Malts are dryed with several sorts of Fuel; as the Coak, Welch-coal,
Straw, Wood and Fern, &c. But the Coak is reckoned by most to exceed all
others for making Drink of the finest Flavour and pale Colour, because it
sends no smoak forth to hurt the Malt with any offensive tang, that Wood,
Fern and Straw are apt to do in a lesser or greater degree; but there is a
difference even in what is call'd Coak, the right sort being large
Pit-coal chark'd or burnt in some measure to a Cinder, till all the Sulphur
is consumed and evaporated away, which is called Coak, and this when it is
truly made is the best of all other Fuels; but if there is but one Cinder
as big as an Egg, that is not thoroughly cured, the smoak of this one is
capable of doing a little damage, and this happens too often by the
negligence or avarice of the Coak-maker: There is another sort by some
wrongly called Coak, and rightly named Culme or Welch-coal, from _Swanzey_
in _Pembrokeshire_, being of a hard stony substance in small bits
resembling a shining Coal, and will burn without smoak, and by its
sulphureous effluvia cast a most excellent whiteness on all the outward
parts of the grainy body: In _Devonshire_ I have seen their Marble or grey
Fire-stone burnt into Lime with the strong fire that this Culme makes, and
both this and the Chark'd Pit-coal affords a most sweet moderate and
certain fire to all Malt that is dryed by it.

Straw is the next sweetest Fuel, but Wood and Fern worst of all.

Some I have known put a Peck or more of Peas, and malt them with five
Quarters of Barley, and they'll greatly mellow the Drink, and so will
Beans; but they won't come so soon, nor mix so conveniently with the Malt,
as the Pea will.

I knew a Farmer, when he sends five Quarters of Barley to be Malted, puts
in half a Peck or more of Oats amongst them, to prove he has justice done
him by the Maker, who is hereby confin'd not to Change his Malt by reason
others won't like such a mixture.

But there is an abuse sometimes committed by a necessitous Malster, who to
come by Malt sooner than ordinary, makes use of Barley before it is
thoroughly sweated in the Mow, and then it never makes right Malt, but
will be steely and not yield a due quantity of wort, as I knew it once
done by a Person that thrashed the Barley immediately from the Cart as it
was brought out of the Field, but they that used its Malt suffered not a
little, for it was impossible it should be good, because it did not
thoroughly Chip or Spire on the floor, which caused this sort of Malt,
when the water was put to it in the Mash-tub, to swell up and absorb the
Liquor, but not return its due quantity again, as true Malt would, nor was
the Drink of this Malt ever good in the Barrel, but remain'd a raw insipid
beer, past the Art of Man to Cure, because this, like Cyder made from
Apples directly off the Tree, that never sweated out their phlegmatick
crude juice in the heap, cannot produce a natural Liquor from such
unnatural management; for barley certainly is not fit to make Malt of
until it is fully mellowed and sweated in the Mow, and the Season of the
Year is ready for it, without both which there can be no assurance of good
Malt: Several instances of this untimely making Malt I have known to
happen, that has been the occasion of great quantities of bad Ales and
Beers, for such Malt, retaining none of its Barley nature, or that the
Season of the Year is not cold enough to admit of its natural working on
the Floor, is not capable of producing a true Malt, it will cause its
Drink to stink in the cask instead of growing fit for use, as not having
its genuine Malt-nature to cure and preserve it, which all good Malts
contribute to as well as the Hop.

There is another damage I have known accrue to the Buyer of Malt by
Mellilet, a most stinking Weed that grows amongst some Barley, and is so
mischievously predominant, as to taint it to a sad degree because its
black Seed like that of an Onion, being lesser than the Barley, cannot be
entirely separated, which obliges it to be malted with the Barley, and
makes the Drink so heady that it is apt to fuddle the unwary by drinking a
small quantity. This Weed is so natural to some Ground that the Farmer
despairs of ever extirpating it, and is to be avoided as much as possible,
because it very much hurts the Drink that is made from Malt mixed with it,
by its nauseous Scent and Taste, as may be perceived by the Ointment made
with it that bears its Name: I knew a Victualler that bought a parcel of
Malt that this weed was amongst, and it spoiled all the Brewings and Sale
of the Drink, for it's apt to cause Fevers, Colicks and other Distempers
in the Body.

Darnel is a rampant Weed and grows much amongst some Barley, especially in
the bad Husbandman's Ground, and most where it is sown with the
Seed-barley: It does the least harm amongst Malt, because it adds a
strength to it, and quickly intoxicates, if there is much in it; but where
there is but little, the Malster regards it not, for the sake of its
inebriating quality.

There are other Weeds or Seeds that annoy the Barley; but as the Screen,
Sieve and throwing will take most of them out, there does not require here
a Detail of their Particulars. Oats malted as Barley is, will make a weak,
soft, mellow and pleasant Drink, but Wheat when done so, will produce a
strong heady nourishing well-tasted and fine Liquor, which is now more
practised then ever.

CHAP. III.

_To know good from bad_ Malts.

This is a Matter of great Importance to all Brewers, both publick and
private, for 'tis common for the Seller to cry all is good, but the
Buyer's Case is different; wherefore it is prudential to endeavour to be
Master of this Knowledge, but I have heard a great Malster that lived
towards _Ware_, say, he knew a grand Brewer, that wetted near two hundred
Quarters a Week, was not a judge of good and bad Malts, without which 'tis
impossible to draw a true length of Ale or Beer. To do this I know but of
few Ways, _First_, By the Bite; Is to break the Malt Corn across between
the Teeth, in the middle of it or at both Ends, and if it tasteth mellow
and sweet, has a round body, breaks soft, is full of flower all its
length, smells well and has a thin skin, then it is good; _Secondly_, By
Water; Is to take a Glass near full, and put in some Malt; and if it
swims, it is right, but if any sinks to the bottom, then it is not true
Malt, but steely and retains somewhat of its Barley nature; yet I must own
this is not an infallible Rule, because if a Corn of Malt is crack'd,
split or broke, it will then take the water and sink, but there may an
allowance be given for such incidents, and still room enough to make a
judgment. _Thirdly_, Malt that is truly made will not be hard and steely,
but of so mellow a Nature, that if forced against a dry Board, will mark
and cast a white Colour almost like Chalk. _Fourthly_, Malt that is not
rightly made will be part of it of a hard Barley nature, and weigh heavier
than that which is true Malt.

CHAP. IV.

 _Of the Nature and Use of Pale, Amber and Brown_ Malts.

The pale Malt is the slowest and slackest dryed of any, and where it has
had a leisure fire, a sufficient time allowed it on the Kiln, and a due
care taken of it; the flower of the grain will remain in its full
quantity, and thereby produce a greater length of wort, than the brown
high dryed Malt, for which reason it is sold for one or two shillings
_per_ Quarter more than that: This pale Malt is also the most nutritious
sort to the body of all others, as being in this state the most simple and
nearest to its Original Barley-corn, that will retain an Alcalous and
Balsamick quality much longer than the brown sort; the tender drying of
this Malt bringing its body into so soft a texture of Parts, that most of
the great Brewers, brew it with Spring and Well-waters, whose hard and
binding Properties they think agrees best with this loose-bodied Malt,
either in Ales or Beer's and which will also dispense with hotter waters
in brewing of it, than the brown Malt can. The amber-colour'd Malt is that
which is dryed in a medium degree, between the pale and the brown, and is
very much in use, as being free of either extream. Its colour is pleasant,
its taste agreeable and its nature wholsome, which makes it be prefer'd
by many as the best of Malts; this by some is brewed either with hard or
soft waters, or a mixture of both.

The brown Malt is the soonest and highest dryed of any, even till it is so
hard, that it's difficult to bite some of its Corns asunder, and is often
so crusted or burnt, that the farinous part loses a great deal of its
essential Salts and vital Property, which frequently deceives its ignorant
Brewer, that hopes to draw as much Drink from a quarter of this, as he
does from pale or amber sorts: This Malt by some is thought to occasion
the Gravel and Stone, besides what is commonly called the Heart-burn; and
is by its steely nature less nourishing than the pale or amber Malts,
being very much impregnated with the fiery fumiferous Particles of the
Kiln, and therefore its Drink sooner becomes sharp and acid than that made
from the pale or amber sorts, if they are all fairly brewed: For this
reason the _London_ Brewers mostly use the _Thames_ or _New River_ waters
to brew this Malt with, for the sake of its soft nature, whereby it agrees
with the harsh qualities of it better than any of the well or other hard
Sorts, and makes a luscious Ale for a little while, and a But-beer that
will keep very well five or six Months, but after that time it generally
grows stale, notwithstanding there be ten or twelve Bushels allowed to the
Hogshead, and it be hopp'd accordingly.

Pale and amber Malts dryed with Coak or Culm, obtains a more clean bright
pale Colour than if dryed with any other Fuel, because there is not smoak
to darken and sully their Skins or Husks, and give them an ill relish,
that those Malts little or more have, which are dryed with Straw, Wood, or
Fern, &c. The Coak or _Welch_ Coal also makes more true and compleat Malt,
as I have before hinted, than any other Fuel, because its fire gives both
a gentle and certain Heat, whereby the Corns are in all their Parts
gradually dryed, and therefore of late these Malts have gained such a
Reputation that great quantities have been consumed in most Parts of the
Nation for their wholsome Natures and sweet fine Taste: These make such
fine Ales and But-beers, as has tempted several of our Malsters in my
Neighbour-hood to burn Coak or Culm at a great expence of Carriage thirty
Miles from _London_.

Next to the Coak-dryed Malt, the Straw-dryed is the sweetest and best
tasted: This I must own is sometimes well Malted where the Barley, Wheat,
Straw, Conveniencies and the Maker's Skill are good; but as the fire of
the Straw is not so regular as the Coak, the Malt is attended with more
uncertainty in its making, because it is difficult to keep it to a
moderate and equal Heat, and also exposes the Malt in some degree to the
taste of the smoak.

Brown Malts are dryed with Straw, Wood and Fern, &c. the Straw-dryed is
not the best, but the Wood sort has a most unnatural Taste, that few can
bear with, but the necessitous, and those that are accustomed to its
strong smoaky tang; yet is it much used in some of the Western Parts of
_England_, and many thousand Quarters of this Malt has been formerly used
in _London_ for brewing the Butt-keeping-beers with, and that because it
sold for two Shillings _per_ Quarter cheaper than the Straw-dryed Malt,
nor was this Quality of the Wood-dryed Malt much regarded by some of its
Brewers, for that its ill Taste is lost in nine or twelve Months, by the
Age of the Beer, and the strength of the great Quantity of Hops that were
used in its Preservation.

The Fern-dryed Malt is also attended with a rank disagreeable Taste from
the smoak of this Vegetable, with which many Quarters of Malt are dryed,
as appears by the great Quantities annually cut by Malsters on our
Commons, for the two prevalent Reasons of cheapness and plenty.

At _Bridport_ in _Dorsetshire_, I knew an Inn-keeper use half Pale and
half Brown Malt for Brewing his Butt-beers, that, proved to my Palate the
best I ever drank on the Road, which I think may be accounted for, in that
the Pale being the slackest, and the Brown the hardest dryed, must produce
a mellow good Drink by the help of a requisite Age, that will reduce those
extreams to a proper Quality.

CHAP. V.

_Of the Nature of several Waters and their use in Brewing. And first of
Well-waters_.

Water next to Malt is what by course comes here under Consideration as a
Matter of great Importance in Brewing of wholsome fine Malt-liquors, and
is of such Consequence that it concerns every one to know the nature of
the water he Brews with, because it is the Vehicle by which the nutritious
and pleasant Particles of the Malt and Hop are conveyed into our Bodies,
and there becomes a diluter of our Food: Now the more simple and freer
every water is from foreign Particles, the better it will answer those
Ends and Purposes; for, as Dr_.Mead_ observes, some waters are so loaded
with stony Corpuscles, that even the Pipes thro' which they are carried,
in time are incrusted and stopt up by them, and is of that petrifying
nature as to breed the Stone in the Bladder, which many of the _Parisians_
have been instances of, by using this sort of water out of the River
_Seine_. And of this Nature is another at _Rowel_ in _Northamptonshire_,
which in no great distance of time so clogs the Wheel of an overshot Mill
there, that they are forced with, convenient Instruments to cut way for
its Motion; and what makes it still more evident, is the sight of those
incrusted Sides of the Tea-kettles, that the hard Well-waters are the
occasion of, by being often boiled in them: And it is further related by
the same Doctor, that a Gentlewoman afflicted with frequent returns of
violent Colick Pains was cured by the Advice of _Van Helmont_, only by
leaving off drinking Beer brewed with Well-water; It's true, such a fluid
has a greater force and aptness to extract the tincture out of Malt, than
is to be had in the more innocent and soft Liquor of Rivers: But for this
very reason it ought not, unless upon meer necessity, to be made use of;
this Quality being owing to the mineral Particles and alluminous Salts
with which it is impregnated. For these waters thus saturated, will by
their various gravities in circulation, deposit themselves in one part of
the animal Body or other, which has made some prove the goodness of Water
by the lightness of its body in the Water Scales, now sold in several of
the _London_ Shops, in order to avoid the Scorbutick, Colicky,
Hypochondriack, and other ill Effects of the Clayey and other gross
Particles of stagnating Well-waters, and the calculous Concretions of
others; and therefore such waters ought to be mistrusted more than any,
where they are not pure clear and soft or that don't arise from good
Chalks or stony Rocks, that are generally allowed to afford the best of
all the Well sorts.

Spring-waters are in general liable to partake of those minerals thro'
which they pass, and are salubrious or mischievous accordingly. At
_Uppingham_ in _Rutland_, their water is said to come off an
Allum-rock, and so tints their Beer with its saline Quality, that it is
easily tasted at the first Draught. And at _Dean_ in _Northamptonshire_, I
have seen the very Stones colour the rusty Iron by the constant running of
a Spring-water; but that which will Lather with Soap, or such soft water
that percolates through Chalk, or a Grey Fire-stone, is generally
accounted best, for Chalks in this respect excell all other Earths, in
that it administers nothing unwholsome to the perfluent waters, but
undoubtedly absorps by its drying spungy Quality any ill minerals that may
accompany the water that runs thro' them. For which reason they throw in,
great Quantities of Chalk into their Wells at _Ailsbury_ to soften their
water, which coming off a black Sand-stone, is so hard and sharp that it
will often turn their Beer sour in a Week's time, so that in its Original
State it's neither fit to Wash nor Brew with, but so long as the Alcalous
soft Particles of the Chalk holds good, they put it to both uses.

River-waters are less liable to be loaded with metallick, petrifying,
saline and other insanous Particles of the Earth, than the Well or Spring
sorts are, especially at some distance from the Spring-head, because the
Rain water mixes with and softens it, and are also much cured by the Sun's
heat and the Air's power, for which reason I have known several so strict,
that they won't let their Horses drink near the first rise of some of
them; this I have seen the sad Effects of, and which has obliged me to
avoid two that run cross a Road in _Bucks_ and _Hertfordshire_: But in
their runnings they often collect gross Particles from ouzy muddy
mixtures, particularly near Town, that make the Beer subject to new
fermentations, and grow foul upon alteration of weather as the _Thames_
water generlly does; yet is this for its softness much better than the
hard sort, however both these waters are used by some Brewers as I shall
hereafter observe; but where a River-water can be had clear in a dry time,
when no great Rain has lately fell out of Rivulets or Rivers that have a
Gravelly, Chalky, Sandy or Stone-bottom free from the Disturbance of
Cattle, &c. and in good Air, as that of _Barkhamstead St. Peters_ in
_Hertfordshire_ is; it may then justly claim the name of a most excellent
water for Brewing, and will make a stronger Drink with the same quantity
of Malt than any of the Well-waters; insomuch that that of the _Thames_
has been proved to make as strong Beer with seven Bushels of Malt, as
Well-water with eight; and so are all River-waters in a proportionable
degree, and where they can be obtain'd clean and pure, Drink may be drawn
fine in a few Days after Tunning.

Rain-water is very soft, of a most simple and pure nature, and the best
Diluter of any, especially if received free from Dirt, and the Salt of
Mortar that often mixes with it as it runs off tyled Roofs; this is very
agreeable for brewing of Ales that are not to be kept a great while, but
for Beers that are to remain some time in the Casks, it is not so, well,
as being apt to putrify the soonest of any.

Pond-waters; this includes all standing waters chiefly from Rain, and are
good or bad as they happen; for where there is a clean bottom, and the
water lies undisturbed from the tread of Cattle, or too many Fish, in an
open sound Air, in a large quantity, and where the Sun has free access; it
then comes near, if not quite as good as Rain or River-waters, as is that
of _Blew-pot_ Pond on the high Green at _Gaddesden_ in _Hertfordshire_ and
many others, which are often prefer'd for Brewing, even beyond many of the
soft Well-waters about them. But where it is in a small quantity, or full
of Fish (especially the sling Tench) or is so disturbed by Cattle as to
force up Mud and Filth; it is then the most foul and disagreeable of all
others: So is it likewise in long dry Seasons when our Pond-waters are so
low as obliges us to strain it thro' Sieves before we can use it, to take
out the small red Worms and other Corruptions, that our stagnant waters
are generally then too full of. The latest and best Doctors have so far
scrutinized into the prime Cause of our _British_ malady the Scurvy, as to
affirm its first rise is from our unwholesome stagnating waters, and
especially those that come off a clayey surface, as there are about
_Londonderry_ and _Amsterdam_, for that where the waters are worst, there
this Distemper is most common, so that in their Writings they have put it
out of all doubt, that most of our complicated symptoms that are rank'd
under this general Name, if they don't take their beginning from such
water, do own it to be their chief Cause.

CHAP. VI.

 _Of Grinding_ Malts.

As trifling as this Article in Brewing may seem at first it very worthily
deserves the notice of all concern'd therein, for on this depends much the
good of our Drink, because if it is ground too small the flower of the
Malt will be the easier and more freely mix with the water, and then will
cause the wort to run thick, and therefore the Malt must be only just
broke in the Mill, to make it emit its Spirit gradually, and incorporate
its flower with the water in such a manner that first a stout Beer, then
an Ale, and afterwards a small Beer may be had at one and the same
Brewing, and the wort run off fine and clear to the last. Many are
likewise so sagacious as to grind their brown Malt a Fortnight before they
use it, and keep it in a dry Place from the influence of too moist an Air,
that it may become mellower by losing in a great measure the fury of its
harsh fiery Particles, and its steely nature, which this sort of Malt
acquires on the Kiln; however this as well as many other hard Bodies may
be reduced by Time and Air into a more soluble, mellow and soft Condition,
and then it will imbibe the water and give a natural kind tincture more
freely, by which a greater quantity and stronger Drink may be made, than
if it was used directly from the Mill, and be much smoother and better
tasted. But the pale Malt will be fit for use at a Week's end, because the
leisureness of their drying endows them with a softness from the time they
are taken off the Kiln to the time they are brewed, and supplies in them
what Time and Air must do in the brown sorts. This method of grinding Malt
so long before-hand can't be so conveniently practised by some of the
great Brewers, because several of them Brew two or three times a Week, but
now most of them out of good Husbandry grind their Malts into the Tun by
the help of a long descending wooden Spout, and here they save the Charge
of emptying or uncasing it out of the Bin (which formerly they used to do
before this new way was discovered) and also the waste of a great deal of
the Malt-flower that was lost when carryed in Baskets, whereas now the
Cover of the Tun presents all that Damage In my common Brewhouse at
_London_ I ground my Malt between two large Stones by the Horse-mill that
with one Horse would grind [blank space] quarters an Hour, But in the
Country I use a steel Hand-mill,  that Cost at first forty Shillings;
which will by the help of only one Man grind six or eight Bushels in an
Hour, and will last a Family many Years without hardning or cutting: There
are some old-fashion'd stone Hand-mills in being, that some are Votaries
for and prefer to the Iron ones, because they alledge that these break the
Corn's body, when the Iron ones only cut it in two, which occasions the
Malt so broke by the Stones, to give the water a more easy, free and
regular Power to extract its Virtue, than the Cut-malt can that is more
confin'd within its Hull. Notwithstanding the Iron ones are now mostly in
Use for their great Dispatch and long Duration. In the Country it is
frequently done by some to throw a Sack of Malt on a Stone or Brick-floor
as soon as it is ground, and there let it lye, giving it one turn, for a
Day or two, that the Stones or Bricks may draw out the fiery Quality it
received from the Kiln, and give the Drink a soft mild Taste.

CHAP. VII.

_Of Brewing in general_.

Brewing, like several other Arts is prostituted to the opinionated
Ignorance of many conceited Pretenders, who if they have but seen or been
concern'd in but one Brewing, and that only one Bushel of Malt, assume the
Name of a Brewer and dare venture on several afterwards, as believing it
no other Task, than more Labour, to Brew a great deal as well as a little;
from hence it partly is, that we meet with such hodge-podge Ales and
Beers, as are not only disagreeable in Taste and Foulness, but indeed
unwholsome to the Body of Man, for as it is often drank thick and voided
thin, the Feces or gross part must in my Opinion remain behind in some
degree. Now what the Effects of that may be, I must own I am not Physician
enough to explain, but shrewdly suspect it may be the Cause of Stones,
Colicks, Obstructions, and several other Chronical Distempers; for if we
consider that the sediments of Malt-liquors are the refuse of a corrupted
Grain, loaded with the igneous acid Particles of the Malt, and then again
with the corrosive sharp Particles of the Yeast, it must consequently be
very pernicious to the _British_ human Body especially, which certainly
suffers much from the animal Salts of the great Quantities of Flesh that
we Eat more than People of any other Nation whatsoever; and therefore are
more then ordinarily obligated not to add the scorbutick mucilaginous
Qualities of such gross unwholsome Particles, that every one makes a
lodgment of in their Bodies, as the Liquors they drink are more or less
thick; for in plain Truth, no Malt-liquor can be good without it's fine.
The late Curious _Simon Harcourt_ Esq; of _Penly_, whom I have had the
honour to drink some of his famous _October_ with, thought the true Art of
Brewing of such Importance, that it is said to Cost him near twenty Pounds
to have an old Days-man taught it by a _Welch_ Brewer, and sure it was
this very Man exceeded all others in these Parts afterwards in the Brewing
of that which he called his _October_ Beer. So likewise in _London_ they
lay such stress on this Art, that many have thought it worth their while
to give one or two hundred Guineas with an Apprentice: This Consideration
also made an Ambassador give an extraordinary Encouragement to one of my
Acquaintance to go over with him, that was a great Master of this Science.
But notwithstanding all that can be said that relates to this Subject,
there are so many Incidents attending Malt-liquors, that it has puzled
several expert Men to account for their difference, though brewed by the
same Brewer, with the same Malt, Hops and Water, and in the same Month and
Town, and tapp'd at the same time: The Beer of one being fine, strong and
well Tasted, while the others have not had any worth drinking, now this
may be owing to the different Weather in the same Month, that might cause
an Alteration in the working of the Liquors, or that the Cellar may not be
so convenient, or that the Water was more disturbed by Winds or Rains, &c.
But it has been observed that where a Gentleman has imployed one Brewer
constantly, and uses the same sort of Ingredients, and the Beer kept in
dry Vaults or Cellars that have two or three Doors; the Drink has been
generally good. And where such Malt-liquors are kept in Butts, more time
is required to ripen, meliorate and fine them, than those kept in
Hogsheads, because the greater quantity must have the longer time; so also
a greater quantity will preserve itself better than a lesser one, and on
this account the Butt and Hogshead are the two best sized Casks of all
others; but all under a Hogshead hold rather too small a quantity to keep
their Bodies. The Butt is certainly a most noble Cask for this use, as
being generally set upright, whereby it maintains a large Cover of Yeast,
that greatly contributes to the keeping in the Spirits of the Beer, admits
of a most convenient broaching in the middle and its lower part, and by
its broad level Bottom, gives a better lodgment to the fining and
preserving Ingredients, than any other Cask whatsoever that lyes in, the
long Cross-form. Hence it partly is, that the common Butt-beer is at this
time in greater Reputation than ever in _London_, and the Home-brew'd
Drinks out of Credit; because the first is better cured in its Brewing, in
its Quantity, in its Cask, and in its Age; when the latter has been loaded
with the pernicious Particles of great Quantities of Yeast, of a short
Age, and kept in small Casks, that confines its Owner, only to Winter
Brewing and Sale, as not being capable of sustaining the Heat of the
Weather, for that the acidity of the Yeast brings on a sudden hardness and
staleness of the Ale, which to preserve in its mild Aley Taste, will not
admit of any great Quantity of Hops; and this is partly the reason that
the handful of Salt which the _Plymouth_ Brewers put into their Hogshead,
hinders their Ale from keeping, as I shall hereafter take notice of.

CHAP. VIII.

_The_ London _Method of Brewing_.

In a great Brewhouse that I was concern'd in, they wetted or used a
considerable Quantity of Malt in one Week in Brewing Stout-beer, common
Butt-beer, Ale and small Beer, for which purpose they have River and Well
Waters, which they take in several degrees of Heat, as the Malt, Goods and
Grain are in a condition to receive them, and according to the Practice
there I shall relate the following Particulars, viz.

_For Stout Butt Beer_.

This is the strongest Butt-Beer that is Brewed from brown Malt, and often
sold for forty Shillings the Barrel, or six Pound the Butt out of the
wholesale Cellars: The Liquor (for it is Sixpence forfeit in the _London_
Brewhouse if the word Water is named) in the Copper designed for the first
Mash, has a two Bushel Basket, or more, of the most hully Malt throw'd
over it, to cover its Top and forward its Boiling; this must be made very
hot, almost ready to boil, yet not so as to blister, for then it will be
in too high a Heat; but as an indication of this, the foul part of the
Liquor will ascend, and the Malt swell up, and then it must be parted,
look'd into and felt with the Finger or back of the Hand, and if the
Liquor is clear and can but be just endured, it is then enough, and the
Stoker must damp his fire as soon as possible by throwing in a good Parcel
of fresh Coals, and shutting his Iron vent Doors, if there are any;
immediately on this they let as much cold Liquor or Water run into the
Copper as will make it all of a Heat, somewhat more than Blood-warm, this
they Pump over, or let it pass by a Cock into an upright wooden square
Spout or Trunk, and it directly rises thro' the Holes of a false Bottom
into the Malt, which is work'd by several Men with Oars for about half an
Hour, and is called the first and stiff Mash: While this is doing, there
is more Liquor heating in the Copper that must not be let into the mash
Tun till it is very sharp, almost ready to boil, with this they Mash
again, then cover it with several Baskets of Malt, and let it stand an
Hour before it runs into the Under-back, which when boiled an Hour and a
half with a good quantity of Hops makes this Stout. The next is Mash'd
with a cooler Liquor, then a sharper, and the next Blood-warm or quite
Cold; by which alternate degrees of Heat, a Quantity of small Beer is made
after the Stout.

_For Brewing strong brown Ale called_ Stitch.

This is most of it the first running of the Malt, but yet of a longer
Length than is drawn for the Stout; It has but few Hops boiled in it, and
is sold for Eight-pence _per_ Gallon at the Brewhouse out of the Tun, and
is generally made to amend the common brown Ale with, on particular
Occasions. This Ale I remember was made use of by [Blank space] _Medlicot_
Esq; in the beginning of a Consumption, and I heard him say, it did him
very great Service, for he lived many Years afterwards.

_For Brewing common brown Ale and Starting Beer_.

They take the Liquors from the brown Ale as for the Stout, but draw a
greater Quantity from the Malt, than for Stout or Stitch, and after the
fifth and second Mash they Cap the Goods with fresh Malt to keep in the
Spirit and Boil it an Hour; after this, small Beer is made of the same
Goods. Thus also the common brown Starting Butt-Beer is Brewed, only
boiled with more Hops an Hour and a half, and work'd cooler and longer
than the brown Ale, and a shorter Length drawn from the Malt. But it is
often practised after the brown Ale, and where a Quantity of small Beer is
wanted, or that it is to be Brewed better than ordinary, to put so much
fresh Malt on the Goods as will answer that purpose.

_For Brewing Pale and Amber Ales and Beers_.

As the brown Malts are Brewed with River, these are Brewed with Well or
Spring Liquors. The Liquors are by some taken sharper for pale than brown
Malts, and after the first scalding Liquor is put over, some lower the
rest by degrees to the last which is quite Cold, for their small Beer; so
also for Butt-Beers there is no other difference than the addition of more
Hops, and boiling, and the method of working. But the reasons for Brewing
pale Malts with Spring or hard Well waters, I have mentioned in my second
Book of Brewing.

_For Brewing Entire Guile Small Beer_.

On the first Liquor they throw some hully Malt to shew the break of it,
and when it is very sharp, they let in some cold Liquor, and run it into
the Tun milk warm; this is mash'd with thirty or forty pulls of the Oar,
and let stand till the second Liquor is ready, which must be almost
scalding hot to the back of the Hand, then run it by the Cock into the
Tun, mash it up and let it stand an Hour before it is spended off into the
Under-back: These two pieces of Liquor will make one Copper of the first
wort, without putting any fresh Malt on the Goods; the next Liquor to be
Blood-warm, the next sharp, and the next cool or cold; for the general way
in great Brewhouses is to let a cool Liquor precede a sharp one, because
it gradually opens the Pores of the Malt and Goods, and prepares the way
for the hotter Liquor that is to follow.

_The several Lengths or Quantities of Drinks that have been made from
Malt, and their several Prices, as they have been sold at a common
Brewhouse_.

For Stout-Beer, is commonly drawn one Barrel off a quarter of Malt, and
sold for thirty Shillings _per_ Barrel from the Tun. For Stitch or strong
brown Ale, one Barrel and a Firkin, at one and twenty Shillings and
Fourpence _per_ Barrel from the Tun. For common brown Ale, one Barrel and
a half or more, at sixteen Shillings _per_ Barrel, that holds thirty two
Gallons, from the Tun. For Intire small Beer, five or six Barrels off a
Quarter, at seven or eight Shillings _per_ Barrel from the Tun. For Pale
and Amber Ale, one Barrel and a Firkin, at one Shilling _per_ Gallon from
the Tun.

CHAP. IX.

_The Country or private way of Brewing_.

Several Countries have their several Methods of Brewing, as is practised
in _Wales, Dorchester, Nottingham, Dundle_, and many other Places; but
evading Particulars, I shall here recommend that which I think is most
serviceable both in Country and _London_ private Families. And first, I
shall observe that the great Brewer has some advantages in Brewing more
than the small one, and yet the latter has some Conveniences which the
former can't enjoy; for 'tis certain that the great Brewer can make more
Drink, and draw a greater Length in proportion to his Malt, than a Person
can from a lesser Quantity, because the greater the Body, the more is its
united Power in receiving and discharging, and he can Brew with less
charge and trouble by means of his more convenient Utensils. But then the
private Brewer is not without his Benefits; for he can have his Malt
ground at pleasure, his Tubs and moveable Coolers sweeter and better
clean'd than the great fixed Tuns and Backs, he can skim off his top Yeast
and leave his bottom Lees behind, which is what the great Brewer can't so
well do; he can at discretion make additions of cold wort to his too
forward Ales and Beers, which the great Brewer can't so conveniently do;
he can Brew how and when he pleases, which the great ones are in some
measure hindred from. But to come nearer the matter, I will suppose a
private Family to Brew five Bushels of Malt, whose Copper holds brim-full
thirty six Gallons or a Barrel: On this water we put half a Peck of Bran
or Malt when it is something hot, which will much forward it by keep in
the Steams or Spirit of the water, and when it begins to Boil, if the
water is foul, skim off the Bran or Malt and give it the Hogs, or else
lade both water and that into the mash Vat, where it is to remain till the
steam is near spent, and you can see your Face in it, which will be in
about a quarter of an Hour in cold weather; then let all but half a Bushel
of the Malt run very leisurely into it, stirring it all the while with an
Oar or Paddle, that it may not Ball, and when the Malt is all but just
mix'd with water it is enough, which I am sensible is different from the
old way and the general present Practice; but I shall here clear that
Point. For by not stirring or mashing the Malt into a Pudding Consistence
or thin Mash, the Body of it lies in a more loose Condition, that will
easier and sooner admit of a quicker and more true Passage of the
after-ladings of the several Bowls or Jets of hot water, which must run
thorough it before the Brewing is ended; by which free percolation the
water has ready access to all the parts of the broken Malt, so that the
Brewer is capacitated to Brew quicker or slower, and to make more Ale or
small Beer; If more Ale, then hot Boiling water must be laded over to
slow that one Bowl must run almost off before another is put over, which
will occasion the whole Brewing to last about sixteen Hours, especially
if the _Dundle_ way is followed, of spending it out of the Tap as small
as a Straw, and as fine as Sack, and then it will be quickly so in the
Barrel: Of if less or weaker Ale is to be made and good small Beer, then
the second Copper of boiling water may be put over expeditiously and
drawn out with a large and fast steam. After the first stirring of the
Malt is done, then put over the reserve of half a Bushel of fresh Malt
to the four Bushels and half that is already in the Tub, which must be
spread all over it, and also cover the top of the Tub with some Sacks or
other Cloths to keep in the Steam or Spirit of the Malt; then let it
stand two or three Hours, at the end of which, put over now and then a
Bowl of the boiling water in the Copper as is before directed, and so
continue to do till as much is run off as will almost fill the Copper;
then in a Canvas or other loose woven Cloth, put in half a Pound of Hops
and boil them half an Hour, when they must be taken out, and as many
fresh ones put in their room as is judged proper to boil half an Hour
more, if for Ale: But if for keeping Beer, half a Pound of fresh ones
should be put in at every half Hour's end, and Boil an Hour and a half
briskly: Now while the first Copper of wort is Boiling, there should be
scalding water leisurely put over the Goods, Bowl by Bowl, and run off,
that the Copper may be filled again immediately after the first is out,
and boiled an Hour with near the same quantity of fresh Hops, and in the
same manner as those in the first Copper of Ale-wort were. The rest for
small Beer may be all cold water put over the Grains at once, or at
twice, and Boil'd an Hour each Copper with the Hops that has been boil'd
before. But here I must observe, that sometimes I have not an
opportunity to get hot water for making all my second Copper of wort,
which obliges me then to make use of cold to supply what was wanting.
Out of five Bushels of Malt, I generally make a Hogshead of Ale with the
two first Coppers of wort, and a Hogshead of small Beer with the other
two, but this more or less according to please me, always taking Care to
let each Copper of wort be strained off thro' a Sieve, and cool in four
or five Tubs to prevent its foxing. Thus I have brewed many Hogsheads of
midling Ale that when the Malt is good, has proved strong enough for
myself and satisfactory to my friends: But for strong keeping Beer, the
first Copper of wort may be wholly put to that use, and all the rest
small Beer: Or when the first Copper of wort is intirely made use of for
strong Beer, the Goods may be help'd with more fresh Malt (according to
the _London_ Fashion) and water lukewarm put over at first with the
Bowl, but soon after sharp or boiling water, which may make a Copper of
good Ale, and small Beer after that. In some Parts of the North, they
take one or more Cinders red hot and throw some Salt on them to overcome
the Sulphur of the Coal, and then directly thrust it into the fresh Malt
or Goods, where it lies till all the water is laded over and the Brewing
done, for there is only one or two mashings or stirrings at most
necessary in a Brewing: Others that Brew with Wood will quench one or
more Brands ends of Ash in a Copper of wort, to mellow the Drink as a
burnt Toast of Bread does a Pot of Beer; but it is to be observed, that
this must not be done with Oak, Firr, or any other strong-scented Wood;
lest it does more harm than good.

_Another Way_.

When small Beer is not wanted, and another Brewing is soon to succeed the
former, then may the last small Beer wort, that has had no Hops boiled in
it, remain in the Copper all Night, which will prevent its foxing, and be
ready to boil instead of so much water to put over the next fresh Malt:
This will greatly contribute to the strengthening, bettering and colouring
of the next wort, and is commonly used in this manner when Stout or
_October_ Beer is to be made, not that it is less serviceable if it was
for Ale, or Intire Guile small Beer; but lest it should taste of the
Copper by remaining all Night in it, it may be dispersed into Tubs and
kept a Week or more together if some fresh cold water is daily added to
it, and may be brewed as I have mentioned, taking particular Care in this
as well as in the former ways to return two, three, or more Hand-bowls of
wort into the Mash Tub, that first of all runs off, till it comes
absolutely fine and clear, and then it may spend away or run off for good:
Others will reserve this small Beer wort unboiled in Tubs, and keep it
there a Week in Winter, or two or three Days in Summer, according to
Conveniency, by putting fresh water every Day to it, and use it instead of
water for the first Mash, alledging it is better so than boiled, because
by that it is thickened and will cause the wort to run foul; this may be a
Benefit to a Victualler that Brews to Sell again, and can't Vent his small
Beer; because for such small raw wort that is mix'd with any water, there
is no Excise to be pay'd.

_For Brewing Intire Guile Small Beer_.

There can be no way better for making good small Beer, than by Brewing it
from fresh Malt, because in Malt as well as in Hops, and so in all other
Vegetables, there is a Spirituous and Earthy part, as I shall further
enlarge on in writing of the Hop; therefore all Drink brewed from Goods or
Grains after the first or second worts are run off, is not so good and
wholsome, as that intirely brewed from fresh Malt, nor could any thing but
Necessity cause me to make use of such Liquor; yet how many thousands are
there in this Nation that know nothing of the matter, tho' it is of no
small Importance, and ought to be regarded by all those that value their
Health and Taste. And here I advertise every one who reads or hears this,
and is capable of being his own Friend, so far to mind this _Item_ and
prefer that small Beer which is made entirely from fresh Malt, before any
other that is brewed after strong Beer or Ale. Now to brew such Guile
small Beer after the boiling water has stood in the Tub till it is clear,
put in the Malt leisurely, and mash it that it does not Ball or Clot, then
throw over some fresh Malt on the Top, and Cloths over that, and let it
stand two Hours before it is drawn off, the next water may be between hot
and cold, the next boiling hot, and the next Cold; or if conveniency
allows not, there may be once scalding water, and all the rest cold
instead of the last three. Thus I brew my Intire Guile small Beer, by
putting the first and last worts together, allowing half, or a Pound of
Hops to a Hogshead and boiling it one Hour, but if the Hops were shifted
twice in that time, the Drink would plainly discover the benefit.
Sometimes, when I have been in haste for small Beer, I have put half a
Bushel of Malt and a few Hops into my Barrel-Copper, and boil'd a Kettle
gallop as some call it an Hour, and made me a present Drink, till I had
more leisure to brew better.

_A particular way of Brewing strong_ October _Beer_.

There was a Man in this Country that brewed for a Gentleman constantly
after a Very precise Method, and that was, as soon as he had put over all
his first Copper of water and mash'd it some time, he would directly let
the Cock run a small stream and presently put some fresh Malt on the
former, and mash on the while the Cock was spending, which he would put
again over the Malt, as often as his Pail or Hand-bowl was full, and this
for an Hour or two together; then he would let it run off intirely, and
put it over at once, to run off again as small as a Straw. This was for
his _October_ Beer: Then he would put scalding water over the Goods at
once, but not mash, and Cap them with more fresh Malt that stood an Hour
undisturbed before he would draw it off for Ale; the rest was hot water
put over the Goods and mash'd at twice for small Beer: And it was observed
that his _October_ Beer was the most famous in the Country, but his Grains
good for little, for that he had by this method wash'd out all or most of
their goodness; this Man was a long while in Brewing, and once his Beer
did not work in the Barrel for a Month in a very hard Frost, yet when the
weather broke it recovered and fermented well, and afterwards proved very
good Drink, but he seldom work'd, his Beer less than a Week in the Vat,
and was never tapp'd under three Years.

This way indeed is attended with extraordinary Labour and Time, by the
Brewers running off the wort almost continually, and often returning the
same again into the mash Vat, but then it certainly gives him an
opportunity of extracting and washing out the goodness of the Malt, more
than any of the common Methods, by which he is capacitated to make his
_October_ or _March_ Beer as strong as he pleases. The Fame of _Penly
October_ Beer is at this time well known not only throughout
_Hertfordshire_, but several other remote Places, and truly not without
desert, for in all my Travels I never met with any that excell'd it, for a
clear amber Colour, a fine relish, and a light warm digestion. But what
excell'd all was the generosity of its Donor, who for Hospitality in his
Viands and this _October_ Beer, has left but few of his Fellows. I
remember his usual Expression to be, You are welcome to a good Batch of my
_October_, and true it was, that he proved his Words by his Deeds, for not
only the rich but even the poor Man's Heart was generally made glad, even
in advance, whenever they had Business at _Penly_, as expecting a
refreshment of this Cordial Malt Liquor, that often was accompany'd with a
good Breakfast or Dinner besides, while several others that had greater
Estates would seem generous by giving a Yeoman Man Neighbour, the
Mathematical Treat of a look on the Spit, and a standing Drink at the Tap.

_Of Brewing Molosses Beer_.

Molosses or Treacle has certainly been formerly made too much use of in
the brewing of Stout Beer, common Butt Beers, brown Ales and small Beer
when Malts have been dear: But it is now prohibited under the Penalty of
fifty Pounds for every ten Pounds weight found in any common Brewhouse,
and as Malts are now about twenty Shillings _per_ Quarter, and like to be
so by the Blessing of God, and the Assistance of that invaluable excellent
Liquor for steeping Seed Barley in, published in a late Book intituled,
_Chiltern and Vale Farming Explained_: There is no great danger of that,
Imposition being rife again, which in my Opinion was very unwholsome,
because the Brewer was obliged to put such a large quantity of Treacle
into his water or small wort to make it strong Beer or Ale, as very
probably raised a sweating in some degree in the Body of the drinker: Tho'
in small Beer a lesser quantity will serve; and therefore I have known
some to brew it in that for their Health's sake, because this does not
breed the Scurvy like Malt-liquors, and at the same time will keep open
the Pipes and Passages of the Lungs and Stomach, for which purpose they
put in nine Pounds weight into a Barrel-Copper of cold water, first mixing
it well, and boiling it briskly with a quarter of a Pound of Hops or more
one Hour, so that it may come off twenty seven Gallons.

_A Method practiced by a Victualler for Brewing of Ale or_ October  _Beer
from_ Nottingham.

His Copper holds twenty four Gallons, and the Mash Tub has room enough for
four and more Bushels of Malt. The first full Copper of boiling water he
puts into the Mash Tub, there to lye a quarter of an Hour, till the steam
is so far spent, that he can see his Face in it, or as soon as the hot
water is put in, throws a Pail or two of cold water into it, which will
bring it at once into a temper; then he lets three Bushels of Malt be run
leisurely into it, and stirred or mash'd all the while, but as little as
can be, or no more than just to keep the Malt from clotting or balling;
when that is done, he puts one Bushel of dry Malt on the Top to keep in
the Vapour or Spirit, and so lets it stand covered two Hours, or till the
next Copper full of water is boiled hot, which he lades over the Malt or
Goods three Hand-bowls full at a time, that are to run off at the Cock or
Tap by a very small stream before more is put on, which again must be
returned into the Mash Tub till it comes off exceeding fine, for unless
the wort is clear when it goes into the Copper, there are little hopes it
will be so in the Barrel, which leisure way obliges him to be sixteen
Hours in brewing these four Bushels of Malt. Now between the ladings over
he puts cold water into the Copper to be boiling hot, while the other is
running off; by this means his Copper is kept up near full, and the Cock
spending to the end of brewing his Ale or small Beer, of which only twenty
one Gallons must be saved of the first wort that is reserved in a Tub,
wherein four Ounces of Hops are put and then it is to be set by. For the
second wort I will suppose there are twenty Gallons of water in the Copper
boiling hot, that must be all laded over in the same manner as the former
was, but no cold water need here be mixed; when half of this is run out
into a Tub, it must be directly put into the Copper with half of the first
wort, strain'd thro' the Brewing Sieve as it lies on a small loose wooden
Frame over the Copper, to keep back those Hops that were first put in to
preserve it, which is to make the first Copper twenty one Gallons; then
upon its beginning to boil he puts in a Pound of Hops in one or two Canvas
or other coarse Linnen Bags, somewhat larger than will just contain the
Hops, that an allowance may be given for their swell; this he boils away
very briskly for half an Hour, when he takes the Hops out and continues
boiling the wort by itself till it breaks into Particles a little ragged,
and then it is enough and must be dispers'd into the cooling Tubs very
thin: Then put the remainder of the first and second wort together and
boil that, the same time, in the same manner, and with the same quantity
of fresh Hops the first was. The rest of the third or small Beer wort will
be about fifteen or twenty Gallons more or less, he mixes directly with
some cold water to keep it free of Excise, and puts it into the Copper as
the first Liquor to begin a second Brewing of Ale with another four
Bushels of Malt as he did before, and so on for several Days together if
necessary; but at last there may be some small Beer made, tho' some will
make make none, because the Goods or Grains will go the further in feeding
of Hogs.

_Observations on the foregoing Method_.

The first Copper of twenty four Gallons of water is but sufficient to wet
three Bushels of Malt, and by the additions of cold water as the hot is
expended, it matters not how much the Malt drinks up: Tho' a third part of
water is generally allowed for that purpose that is never returned.

By the leisure putting over the Bowls of water, the goodness of the Malt
is the more extracted and washed out, so that more Ale may be this way
made and less small Beer, than if the wort was drawed out hastily; besides
the wort has a greater opportunity of coming off finer by a slow stream
than by a quicker one, which makes this Method excel all others that
discharge the wort out of the Mash Tub more hastily. Also by the continual
running of the Cock or Tap, the Goods or Grains are out of danger of
sowring, which often happens in Summer Brewings, especially when the Cook
is stopt between the several boilings of the wort, and what has been the
very Cause of damaging or spoiling many Guiles of Drink.

This Brewer reposes such a Confidence in the Hops to preserve the wort
from fixing even in the very hottest time in Summer, that he puts all his
first running into one Tub, till he has an opportunity of boiling it, and
when Tubs and Room are so scarce that the wort is obliged to be laid thick
to cool, then the security of some fresh Hops (and not them already boiled
or soak'd) may be put into it, which may be got out again by letting the
Drink run thro' the Cullender, and after that a Hair Sieve to keep the
Seeds of the Hop back as the Drink goes into the Barrel: But this way of
putting Hops into the cooling Tubs is only meant where there is a perfect
Necessity, and Tubs and Room enough can't be had to lay the wort thin.

By this Method of Brewing, Ale may be made as strong or as small as is
thought fit, and so may the small Beer that comes after, and is so
agreeable that this Brewer makes his Ale and strong keeping _October_
Beer, all one and the same way, only with this Difference, that the latter
is stronger and more hopp'd than the former. Where little or no small Beer
is wanted, there may little or none be Brewed, according to this manner of
Working, which is no small Conveniency to a little Family that uses more
strong than small, nor is there any Loss by leaving the Grainy in some
Heart, where Horse, Cows, Hogs, or Rabbits are kept.

I am very sensible that the Vulgar Error for many Years, has been a
standard Sign to the ignorant of boiling strong Worts only till they break
or curdle in the Copper, which sometimes will be in three quarters of an
Hour, or in an Hour or more, according to the nature of the Malt and
Water; but from these in some measure I dissent, and also from those that
boil it two or three Hours, for it is certain the longer worts boil, the
thicker they are made, because the watry or thin parts evaporate first
away, and the thicker any Drink is boiled, the longer it requires to lye
in the Barrel to have its Particles broke, which Age must be then the sole
cause of, and therefore I have fixed the time and sign to know when the
wort is truly enough, and that in such, a manner that an ordinary Capacity
may be a true judge of, which hereafter will prevent prodigious Losses in
the waste of strong worts that have often been boiled away to greater Loss
than Profit.

I have here also made known, I think, the true Method of managing the Hop
in the Copper, which has long wanted adjusting, to prevent the great
damage that longer boilings of them has been the sole occasion of to the
spoiling of most of our malt Drinks brewed in this Nation.

CHAP. X.

_The Nature and Use of the Hop_.

This Vegetable has suffered its degradation, and raised its Reputation on
the most of any other. It formerly being thought an unwholsome Ingredient,
and till of late a great breeder of the Stone in the Bladder, but now that
falacious Notion is obviated by Dr_.Quincy_ and others, who have proved
that Malt Drink much tinctured by the Hop, is less prone to do that
mischief, than Ale that has fewer boiled in it. Indeed when the Hop in a
dear time is adulterated with water, in which Aloes, etc. have been
infused, as was practised it is said about eight Years ago to make the old
ones recover their bitterness and seem new, then they are to be looked on
as unwholsome; but the pure new Hop is surely of a healthful Nature,
composed of a spirituous flowery part, and a phlegmatick terrene part, and
with the best of the Hops I can either make or mar the Brewing, for if the
Hops are boiled in strong or small worts beyond their fine and pure
Nature, the Liquor suffers, and will be tang'd with a noxious taste both
ungrateful and unwholsome to the Stomach, and if boiled to a very great
Excess, they will be apt to cause Reachings and disturb a weak
Constitution. It is for these Reasons that I advise the boiling two
Parcels of fresh Hops in each Copper of Ale-wort, and if there were three
for keeping Beer, it would be so much the better for the taste, health of
Body and longer Preservation of the Beer in a sound smooth Condition. And
according to this, one of my Neighbours made a Bag like a Pillow-bear of
the ordinary sixpenny yard Cloth, and boil'd his Hops in it half an Hour,
then he took them out, and put in another Bag of the like quantity of
fresh Hops and boiled them half an Hour more, by which means he had an
opportunity of boiling both Wort and Hops their due time, sav'd himself
the trouble of draining them thro' a Sieve, and secured the Seeds of the
Hops at the same time from mixing with the Drink, afterwards he boiled the
same Bags in his small Beer till he got the goodness of it out, but
observe that the Bags were made bigger than what would just contain the
Hops, otherwise it will be difficult to boil out their goodness. It's
true, that here is a Charge encreased by the Consumption of a greater
quantity of Hops than usual, but then how greatly will they answer the
desired end of enjoying fine palated wholsome Drink, that in a cheap time
will not amount to much if bought at the best Hand; and if we consider
their after-use and benefit in small Beer, there is not any loss at all in
their Quantity: But where it can be afforded, the very small Beer would be
much improved if fresh Hops were also shifted in the boiling of this as
well as the stronger worts, and then it would be neighbourly Charity to
give them away to the poorer Person. Hence may appear the Hardship that
many are under of being necessitated to drink of those Brewers Malt
Liquors, who out of avarice boil their Hops to the last, that they may not
lose any of their quintessence: Nay, I have known some of the little
Victualling Brewers so stupendiously ignorant, that they have thought they
acted the good Husband, when they have squeezed the Hops after they have
been boiled to the last in small Beer, to get out all their goodness as
they vainly imagin'd, which is so reverse to good management, that in my
Opinion they had much better put some sort of Earth into the Drink, and it
would prove more pleasant and wholsome. And why the small Beer should be
in this manner (as I may justly call it) spoiled for want of the trifling
Charge of a few fresh Hops, I am a little surprized at, since is the most
general Liquor of Families and therefore as great Care is due to as any in
its Brewing, to enjoy it in pure and wholsome Order.

After the Wort is cooled and put into the working Vat or Tub, some have
thrown fresh Hops into it, and worked them with the Yeast, at the same
time reserving a few Gallons of raw Wort to wash the Yeast thro' a Sieve
to keep back the Hop. This is a good way when Hops enough have not been
sufficiently boiled in the Wort, or to preserve it in the Coolers where it
is laid thick, otherwise I think it needless.

When Hops have been dear, many have used the Seeds of Wormwood, the they
buy in the London Seed Shops instead of them: Others _Daucus_ or wild
Carrot Seed, that grows in our common Fields, which many of the poor
People in this Country gather and dry in their Houses against their
wanting of them: Others that wholsome Herb _Horehound_, which indeed is a
fine Bitter and grows on several of our Commons.

But before I conclude this Article, I shall take notice of a Country Bite,
as I have already done of a _London_ one, and that is, of an Arch Fellow
that went about to Brew for People, and took his opportunity to save all
the used Hops that were to be thrown away, these he washed clean, then
would dry them in the Sun, or by the Fire, and sprinkle the juice of
_Horehound_ on them, which would give them such a greenish colour and
bitterish taste, that with the help of the Screw-press he would sell them
for new Hops.

Hops in themselves are known to be a subtil grateful Bitter, whose
Particles are Active and Rigid, by which the viscid ramous parts of the
Malt are much divided, that makes the Drink easy of Digestion in the Body;
they also keep it from running into such Cohesions as would make it ropy,
valid and sour, and therefore are not only of great use in boiled, but
in raw worts to preserve them sound till they can be put into the Copper,
and afterwards in the Tun while the Drink is working, as I have before
hinted.

Here then I must observe, that the worser earthy part of the Hop is
greatly the cause of that rough, harsh unpleasant taste, which accompany
both Ales and Beers that have the Hops so long boiled in them as to
tincture their worts with their mischievous Effects; for notwithstanding
the Malt, be ever so good, the Hops, if boiled too long in them, will be
so predominant as to cause a nasty bad taste, and therefore I am in hopes
our Malt Liquors in general will be in great Perfection, when Hops are
made use of according to my Directions, and also that more Grounds will be
planted with this most serviceable Vegetable than ever, that their
Dearness may not be a disencouragement to this excellent Practice.

For I know an Alehouse-keeper and Brewer, who, to save the expence of Hops
that were then two Shillings _per_ Pound, use but a quartern instead of a
Pound, the rest he supplied with _Daucus_ Seeds; but to be more
particular, in a Mug of this Person's Ale I discovered three several
Impositions. _First_, He underboil'd his Wort to save its Consumption:
_Secondly_, He boiled this Seed instead of the Hop; and _Thirdly_, He beat
the Yeast in for some time to encrease the strength of the Drink; and all
these in such a _Legerdemain_ manner as gull'd and infatuated the ignorant
Drinker to such a degree as not to suspect the Fraud, and that for these
three Reasons: _First_, The underboil'd wort being of a more sweet taste
than ordinary, was esteemed the Produce of a great allowance of Malt.
_Secondly_, The _Daucus_ Seed encreased their approbation by the fine
Peach flavour or relish that it gives the Drink; and _Thirdly_, The Yeast
was not so much as thought of, since they enjoyed a strong heady Liquor.
These artificial Qualities, and I think I may say unnatural, has been so
prevalent with the Vulgar, who were his chief Customers, that I have known
this Victualler have more Trade for such Drink than his Neighours, who had
much more wholsome at the same time; for the _Daucus_ Seed tho' it is a
Carminative, and has some other good Properties, yet in the unboil'd Wort
it is not capable of doing the Office of the Hop, in breaking thro' the
clammy parts of it; the Hop being full of subtil penetrating Qualities, a
Strengthener of the Stomach, and makes the Drink agreeble, by opposing
Obstructions of the _Viscera_, and particularly of the Liver and Kidneys,
as the Learned maintain, which confutes the old Notion, that Hops are a
Breeder of the Stone in the Bladder.

CHAP. XI.

_Of Boiling Malt Liquors_.

Altho' I have said an Hour and a half is requisite for boiling _October_
Beer, and an Hour for Ales and small Beer; yet it is to be observed, that
an exact time is not altogether a certain Rule in this Case with some
Brewers; for when loose Hops are boiled in the wort so long till they all
sink, their Seeds will arise and fall down again; the wort also will be
curdled, and broke into small Particles if examin'd in a Hand-bowl, but
afterwards into larger, as big as great Pins heads, and will appear clean
and fine at the Top. This is so much a Rule with some, that they regard
not Time but this Sign to shew when the Wort is boiled enough; and this
will happen sooner or later according to the Nature of the Barley and its
being well Malted; for if it comes off Chalks or Gravels, it generally has
the good Property of breaking or curdling soon; but if of tough Clays,
then it is longer, which by some Persons is not a little valued, because
it saves time in boiling, and consequently the Consumption of the Wort.

It is also to be observed, that pale Malt Worts will not break so soon in
the Copper, as the brown Sorts, but when either of their Worts boil, it
should be to the purpose, for then they will break sooner and waste less
than if they are kept Simmering, and will likewise work more kindly in the
Tun, drink smoother, and keep longer.

Now all Malt Worts may be spoiled by too little or too much boiling; if
too little, then the Drink will always taste raw, mawkish, and be
unwholsome in the Stomach, where, instead of helping to dilute and digest
our Food, it will cause Obstructions, Colicks, Head-achs, and other
misfortunes; besides, all such underboil'd Drinks are certainly exposed to
staleness and sowerness, much sooner than those that have had their full
time in the Copper. And if they are boiled too long, they will then
thicken (for one may boil a Wort to a Salve) and not come out of the
Copper fine and in a right Condition, which will cause it never to be
right clear in the Barrel; an _Item_ sufficient to shew the mistake of all
those that think to excel in Malt Liquors, by boiling them two or three
Hours, to the great Confusion of the Wort, and doing more harm than good
to the Drink.

But to be more particular in those two Extreams, it is my Opinion, as I
have said before, that no Ale Worts boiled less than an Hour can be good,
because in an Hour's time they cannot acquire a thickness of Body any ways
detrimental to them, and in less than an Hour the ramous viscid parts of
the Ale cannot be sufficiently broke and divided, so as to prevent it
running into Cohesions, Ropyness and Sowerness, because in Ales there are
not Hops enough allowed to do this, which good boiling must in a great
measure supply, or else such Drink I am sure can never be agreeable to the
Body of Man; for then its cohesive Parts being not thoroughly broke and
comminuted by time and boiling, remains in a hard texture of Parts, which
consequently obliges the Stomach to work more than ordinary to digest and
secrete such parboiled Liquor, that time and fire should have cured
before: Is not this apparent in half boil'd Meats, or under-bak'd Bread,
that often causes the Stomach a great fatigue to digest, especially in
those of a sedentary Life; and if that suffers, 'tis certain the whole
Body must share in it: How ignorant then are those People, who, in tipling
of such Liquor, can praise it for excellent good Ale, as I have been an
eye-witness of, and only because its taste is sweetish, (which is the
nature of such raw Drinks) as believing it to be the pure Effects of the
genuine Malt, not perceiving the Landlord's Avarice and Cunning to save
the Consumption of his Wort by shortness of boiling, tho' to the great
Prejudice of the Drinker's Health; and because a Liquid does not afford
such a plain ocular Demonstration, as Meat and Bread does, these deluded
People are taken into an Approbation of indeed an _Ignis fatuus_, or what
is not.

To come then to the _Crisis_ of the Matter, both Time and the Curdling or
Breaking of the Wort should be consulted; for if a Person was to boil the
Wort an Hour, and then take it out of the Copper, before it was rightly
broke, it would be wrong management, and the Drink would not be fine nor
wholsome; and if it should boil an Hour and a half, or two Hours, without
regarding when its Particles are in a right order, then it may be too
thick, so that due Care must be had to the two extreams to obtain it its
due order; therefore in _October_ and keeping Beers, an Hour and a
quarter's good boiling is commonly sufficient to have a thorough cured
Drink, for generally in that time it will break and boil enough, and
because in this there is a double Security by length of boiling, and a
quantity of Hops shifted; but in the new way there is only a single one,
and that is by a double or treble allowance of fresh Hops boiled only half
an Hour in the Wort, and for this Practice a Reason is assigned, that the
Hops being endowed with discutient apertive Qualities, will by them and
their great quantity supply the Defect of underboiling the Wort; and that
a further Conveniency is here enjoyed by having only the fine wholsome
strong flowery spirituous Parts of the Hop in the Drink, exclusive of the
phlegmatick nasty earthy Parts which would be extracted if the Hops were
to be boiled above half an Hour; and therefore there are many now, that
are so attach'd to this new Method, that they won't brew Ale or _October_
Beer any other way, vouching it to be a true Tenet, that if Hops are
boiled above thirty Minutes, the wort will have some or more of their
worser Quality. The allowance of Hops for Ale or Beer, cannot be exactly
adjusted without coming to Particulars, because the Proportion should be
according to the nature and quality of the Malt, the Season of the Year it
is brew'd in, and the length of time it is to be kept.

For strong brown Ale brew'd in any of the Winter Months, and boiled an
Hour, one Pound is but barely sufficient for a Hogshead, if it be Tapp'd
in three Weeks or a Month.

If for pale Ale brewed at that time and for that Age, one Pound and a
quarter of Hops; but if these Ales are brewed in any of the Summer Months,
there should be more Hops allowed.

For _October_ or _March_ brown Beer, a Hogshead made from Eleven Bushels
of Malt, boiled an Hour and a quarter to be kept Nine Months, three Pounds
and a half ought to be boiled in such Drink at the least.

For _October_ or _March_, pale Beer made from fourteen Bushels, boiled an
Hour and a quarter, and kept Twelve Months, six Pound ought to be allowed
to a Hogshead of such Drink, and more if the Hops are shifted in two Bags,
and less time given the Wort to boil.

Now those that are of Opinion, that their Beer and Ales are greatly
improved by boiling the Hops only half an Hour in the Wort, I joyn in
Sentiment with them, as being very sure by repeated Experience it is so;
but I must here take leave to dissent from those that think that half an
Hour's boiling the Wort is full enough for making right sound and well
relished Malt Drinks; however of this I have amply and more particularly
wrote in my Second Book of Brewing in Chapter IV, where I have plainly
publish'd the true Sign or Criterion to know when the Wort is boiled just
enough, and which I intend to publish in a little time.

CHAP. XII.

_Of Foxing or Tainting Malt Liquors_.

Foxing is a misfortune, or rather a Disease in Malt Drinks, occasioned by
divers Means, as the Nastiness of the Utensils, putting the Worts too
thick together in the Backs or Cooler, Brewing too often and soon one
after another, and sometimes by bad Malts and Waters, and the Liquors
taken in wrong Heats, being of such pernicious Consequence to the great
Brewer in particular, that he sometimes cannot recover and bring his
Matters into a right Order again under a Week or two, and is so hateful to
him in its very Name, that it is a general Law among them to make all
Servants that Name the word _Fox_ or _Foxing_, in the Brewhouse to pay
Sixpence, which obliges them to call it _Reynards_; for when once the
Drink is Tainted, it may be smelt at some Distance somewhat like a _Fox_;
It chiefly happens in hot weather, and causes the Beer and Ale so Tainted
to acquire a fulsome sickish taste, that will if it is receive'd in a
great degree become Ropy like Treacle, and in some short time turn Sour.
This I have known so to surprize my small Beer Customers, that they have
asked the Drayman what was the matter: He to act in his Master's Interest
tells them a Lye, and says it is the goodness of the Malt that causes that
sweetish mawkish taste, and then would brag at Home how cleverly he came
off. I have had it also in the Country more than once, and that by the
idleness and ignorance of my Servant, who when a Tub has been rinced out
only with fair Water, has set it by for a clean one but this won't do with
a careful Master for I oblige him to clean the Tub with a Hand-brush,
Ashes, or Sand every Brewing, and so that I cannot scrape any Dirt up
under my Nail. However as the Cure of this Disease has baffled the Efforts
of many, I have been tempted to endeavour the finding out a Remedy for the
great Malignity, and shall deliver the best I know on this Score.

And here I shall mention the great Value of the Hop in preventing and
curing the Fox in Malt Liquors. When the Wort is run into the Tub out of
the mashing Vat, it is a very good way to throw some Hops directly into it
before it is put into the Copper, and they will secure it against Sourness
and Ropyness, that are the two Effects of fox'd Worts or Drinks, and is of
such Power in this respect, that raw Worts may be kept some time, even, in
hot weather, before they are boiled, and which is necessary; where there
is a large Quantity of Malt used to a little Copper; but it is certain
that the stronger Worts will keep longer with Hops than the smaller Sorts:
So likewise if a Person has fewer Tubs than is wanting, and he is
apprehensive his Worts will be Fox'd by too thick lying in the Coolers or
working Tubs, then it will be a safe way to put some fresh Hops into such
Tubs and work them with the Yeast as I have before hinted; or in case the
Drink is already Foxed in the Fat or Tun, new Hops should be put in and
work'd with it, and they will greatly fetch it again into a right Order;
but then such Drink should be carefully taken clear off from its gross
nasty Lee, which being mostly Tainted, would otherwise lye in the Barrel,
corrupt and make it worse.

Some will sift quick Lime into foxed Drinks while they are working in the
Tun or Vat, that its Fire and Salts may break the Cohesions of the Beer or
Ale, and burn away the stench, that the Corruption would always cause; but
then such Drink should by a Peg at the bottom of the Vat be drawn off as
fine as possible, and the Dregs left behind.

There are many that do not conceive how their Drinks become Fox'd and
Tainted for several Brewings together; but I have in Chapter VI, in my
Second Book, made it appear, that the Taint is chiefly retain'd and lodged
in the upright wooden Pins that fasten the Planks to the Joists, and how
scalding Lye is a very efficacious Liquor to extirpate it out of the
Utensils in a little time if rightly applied; and one other most powerful
Ingredient that is now used by the greatest Artists for curing of the
same.

CHAP. XIII

_Of fermenting and working of Beers and Ales, and the pernicious Practice
of Beating in the Yeast detected_.

This Subject in my Opinion has, long wanted a Satyrical Pen to shew the
ill Effects of this unwholsome Method, which I suppose has been much
discouraged and hindered hitherto, from the general use it has been under
many Years, especially by the _Northern_ Brewers, who tho' much famed for
their Knowledge in this Art, and have induced many others by their Example
in the _Southern_ and other Parts to pursue their Method; yet I shall
endeavour to prove them culpable of Male-practice, that beat in the Yeast,
as some of them have done a Week together; and that Custom ought not to
Authorize an ill Practice. _First_, I shall observe that Yeast is a very
strong acid, that abounds with subtil spirituous Qualities, whose
Particles being wrapped up in those that are viscid, are by a mixture with
them in the Wort, brought into an intestine Motion, occasion'd by
Particles of different Gravities; for as the spirituous Parts of the Wort
will be continually striving to get up to the Surface, the glutinous
adhesive ones of the Yeast will be as constant in retarding their assent,
and so prevent their Escape; by which the spirituous Particles are set
loose and free from their viscid Confinements, as may appear by the Froth
on the Top, and to this end a moderate warmth hastens the Operation, as it
assists in opening the viscidities in which some spirituous Parts may be
entangled, and unbends the Spring of the included Air: The viscid Parts
which are raised to the Top, not only on account of their own lightness,
but by the continual efforts and occursions of the Spirits to get
uppermost, shew when the ferment is at the highest, and prevent the finer
Spirits making their escape; but if this intestine Operation is permitted
to continue too long, a great deal will get away, and the remaining grow
flat and vapid, as Dr. _Quincy_ well observes. Now tho' a small quantity
of Yeast is necessary to break the Band of Corruption in the Wort, yet it
is in itself of a poisonous Nature, as many other Acids are; for if a
Plaister of thick Yeast be applied to the Wrist as some have done for an
Ague, it will there raise little Pustules or Blisters in some degree like
that Venomous! (As I have just reason in a particular Sense to call it)
Ingredient _Cantharide_, which is one of the Shop Poisons. Here then I
shall observe, that I have known several beat the Yeast into the Wort for
a Week or more together to improve it, or in plainer terms to load the
Wort with its weighty and strong spirituous Particles; and that for two
Reasons, _First_, Because it will make the Liquor so heady, that five
Bushels of Malt may be equal in strength to six, and that by the
stupifying Narcotick Qualities of the Yeast; which mercenary subtilty and
imposition has so prevailed to my Knowledge with the Vulgar and Ignorant,
that it has caused many of them to return the next Day to the same
Alehouse, as believing they had stronger and better Drink than others: But
alas, how are such deceived that know no other than that it is the pure
Product of the Malt, when at the same time they are driving Nails into
their Coffins, by impregnating their Blood with the corrupt Qualities of
this poisonous acid, as many of its Drinkers have proved, by suffering
violent Head-achs, loss of Appetite, and other Inconveniencies the Day
following, and sometimes longer, after a Debauch of such Liquor; who would
not perhaps for a great reward swallow a Spoonful of thick Yeast by
itself, and yet without any concern may receive for ought they know
several, dissolved in the Vehicle of Ale, and then the corrosive
Corpuscles of the Yeast being mix'd with the Ale, cannot fail (when
forsaken in the Canals of the Body of their Vehicle) to do the same
mischief as they would if taken by themselves undiluted, only with this
difference, that they may in this Form be carried sometimes further in the
animal Frame, and so discover their malignity in some of the inmost
recesses thereof, which also is the very Case of malignant Waters, as a
most learned Doctor observes.

_Secondly_, They alledge for beating the Yeast into Wort, that it gives it
a fine tang or relish, or as they call it at _London_, it makes the Ale
bite of the Yeast; but this flourish indeed is for no other reason than to
further its Sale, and tho' it may be agreeable to some Bigots, to me it
proves a discovery of the infection by its nauseous taste; however my
surprize is lessen'd, when I remember the _Plymouth_ People, who are quite
the reverse of them at _Dover_ and _Chatham_; for the first are so
attach'd to their white thick Ale, that many have undone themselves by
drinking it; nor is their humour much different as to the common Brewers
brown Ale, who when the Customer wants a Hogshead, they immediately put in
a Handful of Salt and another of Flower, and so bring it up, this is no
sooner on the Stilling but often Tapp'd, that it may carry a Froth on the
Top of the Pot, otherwise they despise it: The Salt commonly answered its
End of causing the Tiplers to become dryer by the great Quantities they
drank, that it farther excited by the biting pleasant stimulating quality
the Salt strikes the Palate with. The Flower also had its seducing share
by pleasing the Eye and Mouth with its mantling Froth, so that the Sailors
that are often here in great Numbers used to consume many Hogsheads of
this common Ale with much delight, as thinking it was intirely the pure
Product of the Malt.

Their white Ale is a clear Wort made from pale Malt, and fermented with
what they call ripening, which is a Composition, they say, of the Flower
of Malt, Yeast and Whites of Eggs, a _Nostrum_ made and sold only by two
or three in those Parts, but the Wort is brewed and the Ale vended by many
of the Publicans; which is drank while it is fermenting in Earthen Steens,
in such a thick manner as resembles butter'd Ale, and sold for Twopence
Halfpenny the full Quart. It is often prescribed by Physicians to be drank
by wet Nurses for the encrease of their Milk, and also as a prevalent
Medicine for the Colick and Gravel. But the _Dover_ and _Chatham_ People
won't drink their Butt-Beer, unless it is Aged, fine and strong.

_Of working and fermenting_ London _Stout Beer and Ale_.

In my Brewhouse at _London_, the Yeast at once was put into the Tun to
work the Stout Beer and Ale with, as not having the Conveniency of doing
otherwise, by reason the After-worts of small Beer comes into the same
Backs or Coolers where the strong Worts had just been, by this means, and
the shortness of time we have to ferment our strong Drinks, we cannot make
Reserves of cold Worts to mix with and check the too forward working of
those Liquors, for there we brewed three times a Week throughout the Year,
as most of the great ones do in _London_, and some others five times. The
strong Beer brewed for keeping is suffered to be Blood-warm in the Winter
when the Yeast is put into it, that it may gradually work two Nights and a
Day at least, for this won't admit of such a hasty Operation as the common
brown Ale will, because if it is work'd too warm and hasty, such Beer
won't keep near so long as that fermented cooler. The brown Ale has indeed
its Yeast put into it in the Evening very warm, because they carry it away
the very next Morning early to their Customers, who commonly draw it out
in less than a Week's time. The Pale or Amber Ales are often kept near it,
not quite a Week under a fermentation, for the better incorporating the
Yeast with Wort, by beating it in several times for the foregoing Reasons.

_Of working or fermenting Drinks brewed by Private Families_.

I mean such who Brew only for their own use, whether it be a private
Family or a Victualler. In this Case be it for Stout Beers, or for any of
the Ales; the way that is used in _Northamptonshire_, and by good Brewers
elsewhere; is, to put some Yeast into a small quantity of warm Wort in a
Hand-bowl, which for a little while swims on the Top, where it works out
and leisurely mixes with the Wort, that is first quite cold in Summer, and
almost so in Winter; for the cooler it is work'd the longer it will keep,
too much Heat agitating the spirituous Particles into too quick a motion,
whereby they spend themselves too fast, or fly away too soon, and then the
Drink will certainly work into a blister'd Head that is never natural; but
when it ferments by moderate degrees into a fine white curl'd Head, its
Operation is then truly genuine, and plainly shews the right management of
the Brewer. To one Hogshead of Beer, that is to be kept nine Months, I put
a Quart of thick Yeast, and ferment it as cool as it will admit of, two
Days together, in _October_ or _March_, and if I find it works too fast, I
check it at leisure by stirring in some raw Wort with a Hand-bowl: So
likewise in our Country Ales we take the very same method, because of
having them keep some time, and this is so nicely observed by several,
that I have seen them do the very same by their small Beer Wort; now by
these several Additions of raw Wort, there are as often new Commotions
raised in the Beer or Ale, which cannot but contribute to the rarefaction
and comminution of the whole; but whether it is by these joining
Principles of the Wort and Yeast, that the Drink is rendered smoother, or
that the spirituous Parts are more entangled and kept from making their
Escape, I can't determine; yet sure it is, that such small Liquors
generally sparkle and knit out of the Barrel as others out of a Bottle,
and is as pleasant Ale as ever I drank.

Others again for Butt or Stout Beer will, when they find it works up
towards a thick Yeast, mix it once and beat it in again with the
Hand-bowl or Jett; and when it has work'd up a second time in such a
manner, they put it into the Vessel with the Yeast on the Top and the
Sediments at Bottom, taking particular Care to have some more in a Tub
near the Cask to fill it up as it works over, and when it has done
working, leave it with a thick Head of Yeast on to preserve it.

But for Ale that is not to be kept very long, they Hop it accordingly, and
beat the Yeast in every four or five Hours for two Days successively in
the warm weather, and four in the Winter till the Yeast begins to work
heavy and sticks to the hollow part of the Bowl, if turned down on the
same, then they take all the Yeast off at Top and leave all the Dregs
behind, putting only up the clear Drink, and when it is a little work'd in
the Barrel, it will be fine in a few Days and ready for drinking. But
this, last way of beating in the Yeast too long, I think I have
sufficiently detected, and hope, as it is how declining, it will never
revive again, and for which reason I have in my second Book encouraged all
light fermentations, as the most natural for the Malt Liquor and the human
Body.

_Of forwarding and retarding the fermentation of malt Liquors_.

In case Beer or Ale is backward in working, it is often practised to cast
some Flower out of the Dusting Box, or with the Hand over the Top of the
Drink, which will become a sort of Crust or Cover to help to keep the Cold
out: Others will put in one or two Ounces of powder'd Ginger, which will
so heat the Wort as to bring it forward: Others will take a Gallon Stone
Bottle and fill it with boiling water, which being well Cork'd, is put
into the working Tub, where it will communicate a gradual Heat for some
time and forward the fermentation: Others will reserve some raw Wort,
which they heat and mix with the rest, but then due Care must be taken
that the Pot in which it is heated has no manner of Grease about it lest
it impedes, instead of promoting the working, and for this reason some
nice Brewers will not suffer a Candle too near the Wort, lest it drop into
it. But for retarding and keeping back any Drink that is too much heated
in working, the cold raw Wort, as I have said before, is the most proper
of any thing to check it with, tho' I have known some to put one or more
Pewter Dishes into it for that purpose, or it may be broke into several
other Tubs, where by its shallow lying it will be taken off its Fury.
Others again, to make Drink work that is backward, will take the whites of
two Eggs and beat them up with half a Quartern of good Brandy, and put it
either into the working Vat, or into the Cask, and it will quickly bring
it forward if a warm Cloth is put over the Bung. Others will tye up Bran
in a coarse thin Cloth and put it into the Vat, where by its spungy and
flowery Nature and close Bulk it will absorp a quantity of the Drink, and
breed a heat to forward its working. I know an Inn-keeper of a great Town
in _Bucks_ that is so curious as to take off all the top Yeast first, and
then by a Peg near the bottom of his working Tub, he draws off the Beer or
Ale, so that the Dreggs are by this means left behind. This I must own is
very right in Ales that are to be drank soon, but in Beers that are to lye
nine or twelve Months in a Butt or other Cask, there certainly will be
wanted some Feces or Sediment for the Beer to feed on, else it must
consequently grow hungry, sharp and eager; and therefore if its own top
and bottom are not put into a Cask with the Beer, some other Artificial
Composition or Lee should supply its Place, that is wholsomer, and will
better feed with such Drink than its own natural Settlement, and therefore
I have here inserted several curious Receipts for answering this great
End.

CHAP. XIV.

 _Of an Artificial Lee for Stout or Stale Beer to feed on_.

This Article, as it is of very great Importance in the curing of our malt
Liquors, requires a particular regard to this last management of them,
because in my Opinion the general misfortune of the Butt or keeping Beers
drinking so hard and harsh, is partly owing to the nasty foul Feces that
lye at the bottom of the Cask, compounded of the Sediments of Malt, Hops
and Yeast, that are, all Clogg'd with gross rigid Salts, which by their
long lying in the Butt or other Vessel, so tinctures the Beer as to make
it partake of all their raw Natures: For such is the Feed, such is the
Body, as may be perceived by Eels taken out of dirty Bottoms, that are
sure to have a muddy taste, when the Silver sort that are catched in
Gravelly or Sandy clear Rivers Eat sweet and fine: Nor can this ill
property be a little in those Starting (as they call it in _London_) new
thick Beers that were carry'd directly from my Brewhouse, and by a Leather
Pipe or Spout conveyed into the Butt as they stood in the Cellar, which I
shall further demonstrate by the Example of whole Wheat, that is, by many
put into such Beer to feed and preserve it, as being reckoned a
substantial Alcali; however it has been proved that such Wheat in about
three Years time has eat into the very Wood of the Cask, and there
Hony-comb'd it by making little hollow Cavities in the Staves. Others
there are that will hang a Bag of Wheat in the Vessel that it mayn't
touch the Bottom, but in both Cases the Wheat is discovered to absorp and
collect the saline acid qualities of the Beer, Yeast and Hop, by which
it is impregnated with their sharp qualities, as a Toast of Bread is put
into Punch or Beer, whose alcalous hollow Nature will attract and make a
Lodgment of the acid strong Particles in either, as is proved by eating
the inebriating Toast, and therefore the _Frenchman_ says, the _English_
are right in putting a Toast into the Liquor, but are Fools for eating it:
Hence it is that such whole Wheat is loaded with the qualities of the
unwholsome Settlements or Grounds of the Beer, and becomes of such a
corroding Nature, as to do this mischief; and for that reason, some in the
_North_ will hang a Bag of the Flower of malted Oats, Wheat, Pease and
Beans in the Vessels of Beer, as being a lighter and mellower Body than
whole Wheat or its Flower, and more natural to the Liquor: But whether it
be raw Wheat or Malted, it is supposed, after this receptacle has emitted
its alcalous Properties to the Beer, and taken in all it can of the acid
qualities thereof, that such Beer will by length of Age prey upon that
again, and so communicate its pernicious Effects to the Body of Man, as
Experience seems to justify by the many sad Examples that I have seen in
the Destruction of several lusty Brewers Servants, who formerly scorn'd
what they then called Flux Ale, to the preference of such corroding
consuming Stale Beers; and therefore I have hereafter advised that such
Butt or keeping Beers be Tapp'd at nine or twelve Months end at furthest,
and then an Artificial Lee will have a due time allowed it to do good and
not harm.

_An Excellent Composition for feeding Butts or keeping Beers with_.

Take a Quart of _French_ Brandy, or as much of _English_, that is free
from any burnt Tang, or other ill taste, and is full Proof, to this put as
much Wheat or Flower as will knead it into a Dough, put it in long pieces
into the Bung Hole, as soon as the Beer has done working, or afterwards,
and let it gently fall piece by piece to the bottom of the Butt, this will
maintain the Drink in a mellow freshness, keep staleness off for some
time, and cause it to be the stronger as it grows Aged.

ANOTHER.

Take one Pound of Treacle or Honey, one Pound of the Powder of dryed
Oyster-shells or fat Chalk, mix them well and put it into a Butt, as soon
as it has done working or some time after, and Bung it well, this will
both fine and preserve the Beer in a soft, smooth Condition for a great
while.

ANOTHER.

Take a Peck of Egg-shells and dry them in an Oven, break and mix them with
two Pound of fat Chalk, and mix them with water wherein four Pounds of
coarse Sugar has been boiled, and put it into the Butt as aforesaid.

_To fine and preserve Beers and Ales by boiling an Ingredient in the
Wort_.

This most valuable way I frequently follow both for Ale, Butt-beer and
Small Beer, and that is, in each Barrel Copper of Wort, I put in a Pottle,
or two Quarts of whole Wheat as soon as I can, that it may soak before it
boils, then I strain it thro' a Sieve, when I put the Wort in cooling
Tubs, and if it is thought fit the same Wheat may be boiled in a second
Copper: Thus there will be extracted a gluey Consistence, which being
incorporated with the Wort by boiling, gives it a more thick and ponderous
Body, and when in the Cask, soon makes a Sediment or Lee, as the Wort is
more or less loaded with the weighty Particles of this fizy Body; but if
such Wheat was first parched or baked in an Oven, it would do better, as
being rather too raw as it comes from the Ear.

_Another Way_.

A Woman, who lived at _Leighton Buzzard_ in _Bedfordshire_, and had the
best Ale in the Town, once told a Gentleman, she had Drink just done
working in the Barrel, and before it was Bung'd would wager it was fine
enough to Drink out of a Glass, in which it should maintain a little while
a high Froth; and it was true, for the Ivory shavings that she boiled in
her Wort, was the Cause of it, which an Acquaintance of mine accidentally
had a View of as they lay spread over the Wort in the Copper; so will
Hartshorn shavings do the same and better, both of them being great finers
and preservers of malt Liquors against staleness and sourness, and are
certainly of a very alcalous Nature. Or if they are put into a Cask when
you Bung it down, it will be of service for that purpose; but these are
dear in Comparison of the whole Wheat, which will in a great measure
supply their Place, and after it is used, may be given to a poor Body, or
to the Hog.

_To stop the Fret in Malt Liquors_.

Take a Quart of Black Cherry Brandy, and pour it in at the Bung-hole of
the Hogshead and stop it close.

_To recover deadish Beer_.

When strong Drink grows flat, by the loss of its Spirits, take four or
five Gallons out of a Hogshead, and boil it with five Pound of Honey, skim
it, and when cold, put it to the rest, and stop it up close: This will
make it pleasant, quick and strong.

 _To make stale Beer drink new_.

Take the Herb _Horehound_ stamp it and strain it, then put a Spoonful of
the juice (which is an extream good Pectoral) to a pitcher-full of Beer,
let it stand covered about two Hours and drink it.

 _To fine Malt Liquors_.

Take a pint of water, half an Ounce of unslack'd Lime, mix them well
together, let it stand three Hours and the Lime will settle to the Bottom,
and the water be as clear as Glass, pour the water from the Sediment, and
put it into your Ale or Beer, mix it with half an Ounce of Ising-glass
first cut small and boiled, and in five Hours time or less the Beer in the
Barrel will settle and clear.

There are several other Compositions that may be used for this purpose,
but none that I ever heard of will answer like those most Excellent Balls
that Mr. _Ellis_ of _Little Gaddesden_ in _Hertfordshire_ has found out by
his own Experience to be very great Refiners, Preservers and Relishers
of Malt Liquors and Cyders, and will also recover damag'd Drinks, as I
have mentioned in my Second Book, where I have given a further Account of
some other things that will fine, colour and improve Malt Drinks: The
Balls are sold at [missing text]

CHAP. XV.

_Of several pernicious Ingredients put into Malt Liquors to encrease their
Strength_.

Malt Liquors, as well as several others, have long lain under the
disreputation of being adulterated and greatly abused by avaricious and
ill-principled People, to augment their Profits at the Expence of the
precious Health of human Bodies, which, tho' the greatest Jewel in Life,
is said to be too often lost by the Deceit of the Brewer, and the
Intemperance of the Drinker: This undoubtedly was one, and I believe the
greatest, of the Lord _Bacon's_ Reasons for saying, he thought not one
_Englishman_ in a thousand died a natural Death. Nor is it indeed to be
much wondered at, when, according to Report, several of the Publicans make
it their Business to study and practise this Art, witness what I am afraid
is too true, that some have made use of the _Coculus India_ Berry for
making Drink heady, and saving the Expence of Malt; but as this is a
violent Potion by its narcotick stupifying Quality, if taken in too large
a degree, I hope this will be rather a prevention of its use than an
invitation, it being so much of the nature of the deadly Nightshade, that
it bears the same Character; and I am sure the latter is bad enough; for
one of my Neighbour's Brothers was killed by eating its Berries that grow
in some of our Hedges, and so neatly resembles the black Cherry, that the
Boy took the wrong for the right.

There is another sinister Practice said to be frequently used by ill
Persons to supply the full quantity of Malt, and that is _Coriander_
Seeds: This also is of a heady nature boiled in the Wort, one Pound of
which will answer to a Bushel of Malt, as was ingenuously confess'd to me
by a Gardener, who own'd he sold a great deal of it to Alehouse Brewers
(for I don't suppose the great Brewer would be concern'd in any such
Affair) for that purpose, purpose, at Ten-pence per Pound; but how
wretchedly ignorant are those that make use of it, not knowing the way
first to cure and prepare it for this and other mixtures, without which it
is a dangerous thing, and will cause Sickness in the Drinkers of it.
Others are said to make use of Lime-stones to fine and preserve the Drink;
but to come off the fairest in such foul Artifices, it has been too much a
general Practice to beat the Yeast so long into the Ale, that without
doubt it has done great Prejudice to the Healths of many others besides
the Person I have writ of in the Preface of my Second Book. For the sake
then of Seller and Buyer, I have here offered several valuable Receipts
for fining, preserving and mellowing Beers and Ales, in such a true
healthful and beneficial manner, that from henceforth after the Perusal of
this Book, and the knowledge of their worth are fully known, no Person, I
hope, will be so sordidly obstinate as to have any thing to do with such
unwholsome Ingredients; because these are not only of the cheapest sort,
but will answer their End and Purpose; and the rather, since Malts are now
only twenty Shillings per Quarter, and like to hold a low Price for
Reasons that I could here assign.

I own, I formerly thought they were too valuable to expose to the Publick
by reason of their Cheapness and great Virtues, as being most of them
wholsomer than the Malt itself, which is but a corrupted Grain. But, as I
hope they will do considerable Service in the World towards having clear
salubrious and pleasant Malt Liquors in most private Families and
Alehouses, I have my Satisfaction.

CHAP. XVI.

_Of the Cellar or Repository for keeping Beers and Ales_.

It's certain by long Experience, that the Weather or Air has not only a
Power or Influence in Brewings; but also after the Drink is in the Barrel,
Hogshead or Butt, in Cellars or other Places, which is often the cause of
forwarding or retarding the fineness of Malt Liquors; for if we brew in
cold Weather, and the Drink is to stand in a Cellar of Clay, or where
Springs rise, or Waters lye or pass through, such a Place by consequence
will check the due working of the Drink, chill, flat, deaden and hinder it
from becoming fine. So likewise if Beer or Ale is brewed in hot Weather
and put into Chalky, Gravelly or Sandy Cellars, and especially if the
Windows open to the South, South-East, or South-West, then it is very
likely it will not keep long, but be muddy and stale: Therefore, to keep
Beer in such a Cellar, it should be brewed in _October_, that the Drink
may have time to cure itself before the hot Weather comes on; but in
wettish or damp Cellars, 'tis best to Brew in _March_, that the Drink may
have time to fine and settle before the Winter Weather is advanced. Now
such Cellar Extremities should, if it could be done, be brought into a
temperate State, for which purpose some have been so curious as to have
double or treble Doors to their Cellar to keep the Air out, and then
carefully shut the outward, before they enter the inward one, whereby it
will be more secure from aerial Alterations; for in Cellars and Places,
that are most exposed to such Seasons, Malt Liquors are frequently
disturb'd and made unfit for a nice Drinker; therefore if a Cellar is kept
dry and these Doors to it, it is reckoned warm in Winter and cool in
Summer, but the best of Cellars are thought to be those in Chalks, Gravels
or Sands, and particularly in Chalks, which are of a drying quality more
than any other, and consequently dissipates Damps the most of all Earths,
which makes it contribute much to the good keeping of the Drink; for all
damp Cellars are prejudicial to the Preservation of Beers and Ales, and
sooner bring on the rotting of the Casks and Hoops than the dry ones;
Insomuch that in a chalky Cellar near me, their Ashen broad Hoops have
lasted above thirty Years. Besides, in such inclosed Cellars and temperate
Air, the Beers and Ales ripen more kindly, are better digested and
softned, and drink smoother: But when the Air is in a disproportion by the
Cellars letting in Heats and Colds, the Drink will grow Stale and be
disturbed, sooner than when the Air is kept out. From hence it is, that in
some Places their Malt Liquors are exceeding good, because they brew with
Pale or Amber Malts, Chalky Water, and keep their Drinks in close Vaults
or proper dry Cellars, which is of such Importance, that notwithstanding
any Malt Liquor may be truly brewed, yet it may be spoiled in a bad Cellar
that may cause such alternate Fermentations as to make it thick and sour,
tho' it sometimes happens that after such Changes it fines itself again;
and to prevent these Commotions of the Beer, some brew their pale Malt in
_March_ and their brown in _October_, for that the pale Malt, having not
so many fiery Particles in it as the brown, stands more in need of the
Summer's Weather to ripen it, while the brown sort being more hard and dry
is better able to defend itself against the Winter Colds that will help to
smooth its harsh Particles; yet when they happen to be too violent,
Horse-dung should be laid to the Windows as a Fortification against them;
but if there were no Lights at all to a Cellar, it would be better.

Some are of Opinion, that _October_ is the best of all other Months to
brew any sort of Malt in, by reason there are so many cold Months directly
follow, that will digest the Drink and make it much excel that Brewed in
_March_ because such Beer will not want that Care and Watching, as that
brewed in _March_ absolutely requires, by often taking out and putting in
the Vent-peg on Change of Weather; and if it is always left out, then it
deadens and palls the Drink; yet if due Care is not taken in this respect,
a Thunder or Stormy Night may marr all, by making the Drink ferment and
burst the Cask; for which Reason, as Iron Hoops are most in Fashion at
this time, they are certainly the greatest Security to the safety of the
Drink thus exposed; and next to them is the Chesnut Hoop; both which will
endure a shorter or longer time as the Cellar is more or less dry, and the
Management attending them. The Iron Hoop generally begins to rust first at
the Edges, and therefore should be rubbed off when opportunity offers, and
be both kept from wet as much as possible; for 'tis Rust that eats the
Iron Hoop in two sometimes in ten or twelve Years, when the Ashen and
Chesnut in dry Cellars have lasted three times as long.

CHAP. XVII.

_Of Cleaning and Sweetening of Casks_.

In Case your Cask is a Butt, then with cold Water first rince out the Lees
clean, and have ready, boiling or very hot Water, which put in, and with a
long Stale and a little Birch fastened to its End, scrub the Bottom as
well as you can. At the same time let there be provided another shorter
Broom of about a Foot and a half long, that with one Hand may be so
imployed in the upper and other Parts as to clean the Cask well: So in a
Hogshead or other smaller Vessel, the one-handed short Broom may be used
with Water, or with Water, Sand or Ashes, and be effectually cleaned; the
outside of the Cask about the Bung-hole should be well washed, lest the
Yeast, as it works over, carries some of its Filth with it.

But to sweeten a Barrel, Kilderkin, Firkin or Pin in the great Brewhouses,
they put them over the Copper Hole for a Night together, that the Steam of
the boiling Water or Wort may penetrate into the Wood; this Way is such a
furious Searcher, that unless the Cask is new hooped just before, it will
be apt to fall in pieces.

_Another Way_.

Take a Pottle, or more, of Stone Lime, and put it into the Cask; on this
pour some Water and stop it up directly, shaking it well about.

_Another Way_.

Take a long Linnen Rag and dip it in melted Brimstone, light it at the
end, and let it hang pendant with the upper part of the Rag fastened to
the wooden Bung; this is a most quick sure Way, and will not only sweeten,
but help to fine the Drink.

 _Another_.

Or to make your Cask more pleasant, you may use the Vintners Way thus:
Take four Ounces of Stone Brimstone, one Ounce of burnt Alum, and two
Ounces of Brandy; melt all these in an Earthen Pan over hot Coals, and dip
therein a piece of new Canvas, and instantly sprinkle thereon the Powders
of Nutmegs, Cloves, Coriander and Anise-seeds: This Canvas set on fire,
and let it burn hanging in the Cask fastened at the end with the wooden
Bung, so that no Smoke comes out.

 _For a Musty Cask_.