together to start with the pioneers. At two o'clock I left my family
and started in Heber's carriage with Heber and Wm. Kimball and Ellen
Sanders. Bishop Whitney and Lyman went out with us in another wagon.
We went about 19 miles and camped on the prairie. After supper Heber
prayed and we retired to rest.

Thursday, April 15

After eating and prayers by Bishop Whitney, started at half past seven
and got to the Elk Horn at 11:30. We were all across at 12:00 and there
we overtook Brigham, G. A. Smith, E. T. Benson and Amasa
Lyman. We arrived at the pioneers' Camp about 3:00 p.m. This camp is
about twelve miles from the Elk Horn and about 47 from Winter Quarters.
I spent the evening with Aaron Farr, Horace Whitney and Jackson Redding.

Friday, April 16

This day is gloomy, windy and cold. About 8:00 a.m. the camp was called
together, and organized two captains of 100's viz. Stephen Markham
and A. P. Rockwood were appointed, also five captains of 50's
and 14 captains of 10's. There are 143 men and boys on the list of
the pioneer company, three women and Lorenzo Young's two children.
There are 73 wagons. C. P. Rockwell has gone back to camp with
J. C. Little. Bishop Whitney, Lyman, Wm. Kimball and J. B.
Noble returned from here to Winter Quarters. The following is a list of
all the names of this pioneer company. To wit:

Wilford Woodruff, John S. Fowler, Jacob Burnham, Orson Pratt, Joseph
Egbert, John N. Freeman, Marcus B. Thorpe, George A. Smith, George
Wardle, Thomas Grover, Ezra T. Benson, Barnabas L. Adams, Roswell
Stevens, Amasa Lyman, Sterling Driggs, Albert Carrington, Thomas
Bullock, George Brown, Willard Richards, Jesse C. Little, Phineas H.
Young, John Y. Greene, Thomas Tanner, Brigham Young, Addison Everett,
Truman O. Angel, Lorenzo Young and wife, Bryant Stringham, Albert
P. Rockwood, Joseph L. Schofield, Luke Johnson, John Holman, Edmund
Elsworth, Alvarnus Hanks, George R. Grant, Millen Atwood, Samuel Fox,
Tunis Rappleyee, Harvey Pierce, William Dykes, Jacob Weiler, Stephen H.
Goddard, Tarlton Lewis, Henry G. Sherwood, Zebedee Coltrin, Sylvester
H. Earl, John Dixon, Samuel H. Marble, George Scholes, William Henrie,
William A. Empey, Charles Shumway, Thomas Woolsey, Chancy Loveland,
Erastus Snow, Andrew Shumway, James Craig, William Wordsworth, William
Vance, Simeon Howd, Seeley Owen, James Case, Artemas Johnson, William
A. Smoot, Franklin B. Dewey, William Carter, Franklin G. Losee, Burr
Frost, Datus Ensign, Franklin B. Stewart, Monroe Frink, Eric Glines,
Ozro Eastman, Seth Taft, Horace Thornton, Stephen Kelsey, John S.
Eldredge, Charles D. Barnum, Alma M. Williams, Rufus Allen, Robert T.
Thomas, James W. Stuart, Elijah Newman, Levi N. Kendall, Francis Boggs,
David Grant, Heber C. Kimball, Howard Egan, William A. King, Thomas
Cloward, Hosea Cushing, Robert Byard, George Billings, Edson Whipple,
Philo Johnson, William Clayton, Appleton M. Harmon, Carlos Murray,
Horace K. Whitney, Orson K. Whitney, Orrin P. Rockwell, Nathaniel
Thomas Brown, R. Jackson Redding, John Pack, Francis M. Pomroy, Aaron
Farr, Nathaniel Fairbanks, John S. Higbee, John Wheeler, Solomon
Chamberlain, Conrad Kleinman, Joseph Rooker, Perry Fitzgerald, John H.
Tippets, James Davenport, Henson Walker, Benjamin Rolfe, Norton Jacobs,
Charles A. Harper, George Woodard, Stephen Markham, Lewis Barney,
George Mills, Andrew Gibbons, Joseph Hancock, John W. Norton, Shadrach
Roundy, Hans C. Hanson, Levi Jackman, Lyman Curtis, John Brown, Mathew
Ivory, David Powell, (Hark Lay, Oscar Crosby, blacks) Joseph Mathews,
Gilbroid Summe, John Gleason, Charles Burke, Alexander P. Chessley,
Rodney Badger, Norman Taylor, (Green Flake, black) Ellis Eames.

There were 72 wagons, 93 horses, 52 mules, 66 oxen, 19 cows, and 17
dogs, and chickens.

The names of the females in this camp are: Harriet Page Young, Clarissa
Decker, and Ellen Sanders. The names of the children are Isaac Perry
Decker Young and Sabisky L. Young, making a total of 148 souls who have
started to go west of the mountains as pioneers to find a home where
the saints can live in peace and enjoy the fruits of their labors,
and where we shall not be under the dominion of gentile governments,
subject to the wrath of mobs and where the standards of peace can be
raised, the Ensign to nations reared and the kingdom of God flourish
until truth shall prevail, and the saints enjoy the fulness of the
gospel.

The following are the names of the captains of 50's as appointed at
this organization, viz. Addison Everett, Tarlton Lewis, James Case,
John Pack and Shadrack Roundy. The captains of 10's are as follows:

Wilford Woodruff, Ezra T. Benson, Phineas H. Young, Luke Johnson,
Stephen H. Goddard, Charles Shumway, James Case, Seth Taft, Howard
Egan, Appleton M. Harmon, John S. Higbee, Norton Jacobs, John Brown,
Joseph Mathews. For the names of the guard and the gun division see
under date of April 30th.

Stephen Markham was appointed the Captain of the Guard and ordered to
select out of the camp, fifty men for guard, such as he had confidence
in who are to be considered as a standing guard, to attend to the
wagons each night, twelve of them to stand at a time, and to have
two sets each night, that is, 12 each watch to stand half the night.
In cases where the horses and cattle are tied some distance from the
wagons at night, an extra guard is to be selected from the balance of
the company or camp, the standing guard not being permitted to leave
the immediate neighborhood of the wagons. After the organization was
over, I wrote a letter to Diantha, and put it into the hands of Bishop
Whitney, together with the one I received yesterday from father and
I. McEwan, also the one from Ellen to James. Up to 12:00 a.m. I had
no place to put my trunk and clothing, and did not know what to do
with them. However, soon after Heber told me to put them in Appleton
M. Harmon's wagon, which was done. At 2:00 p m. the camp started out
to proceed on the journey. I bid farewell to to Bishop Whitney and
his brother Lyman and son Joshua, who all returned from this place,
also Wm. H. Kimball and Joseph B. Noble. We traveled about three miles
and encamped in a line about six hundred yards from timber, where
there is plenty of cottonwood and some rushes. This night I slept
with Philo Johnson, but having only one quilt, and the night severely
cold, I suffered much, and took a very bad cold. The country in the
neighborhood of the Elk Horn is one of the most beautiful I ever saw.
The bluffs on the east are nicely rolling and beautifully lined with
timber, and some very nice cedar groves. From these bluffs a little
above the ferry you can see the meanderings of the Platte River, and
the beautiful level bottom on the north of it, about fifteen miles wide
for many miles up the river. The Horn is a beautiful river about 150
feet wide and about four feet deep.

Saturday, April 17

This morning the weather is severely cold, with a strong wind from the
north and northwest. We started out at nine o'clock and traveled till
near 12:00 the distance being about seven miles. We camped close by a
cottonwood grove, and the brethren fell hundreds of them to feed their
teams and save corn. There is a small lake close by but the water is
not good and the brethren go to the river about a half a mile. At 5:00
p.m. the camps were called together and organized in military order as
follows:

Brigham Young, Lieutenant General.

Stephen Markham, Colonel.

John Pack and Shadrack Roundy, Majors.

The captains of 10's to be captains of 10's in this order, except John
Pack, who being appointed major, Appleton M. Harmon was appointed
captain in his stead.

Thomas Bullock, clerk of the camp. Thomas Tanner captain of the cannon
with the privilege of choosing eight men to manage it in case of
necessity. The President then said: "After we start from here, every
man must keep his loaded gun in his hand, or in the wagon where he
can put his hand on it at a moment's warning. If they are cap locks,
take off the cap and put on a little leather to keep wet and etc. out.
If flint locks, take out the priming and fill the pan with twine or
cotton," etc.

The wagons must keep together when traveling, and not separate as they
have previously done, and every man to walk beside his own wagon, and
not leave it only by permission. A while before evening one of the
trader's wagons came from the Pawnee village, loaded with furs and
peltry, and camped about one quarter of a mile below us. At night Eames
and Hanson played some on their violins. All peace and quietness. At
night I slept with Egan in Heber's wagon, Heber being gone to sleep
with President Young.

Sunday, April 18

This morning I wrote a letter for Heber to his wife Vilate, which was
sent by Brother Ellis Eames who has concluded to go back on account of
poor health, spitting blood, etc. He started back with the trader's
wagon about eight o'clock a.m. The wind this morning east and southeast
and very cold, with a slight shower of snow. At 10:00 a.m. seven more
traders' wagons came in and stopped about one quarter of a mile below
us, soon after six mules loaded with robes and furs. These traders
say they have come from the Pawnee village in two days. Brother
Roundy got some Buffalo meat from them and gave me a little, which
I thought tasted very good. I commenced writing Heber's journal and
wrote considerable. He wants me to write his journal all the journey.
I also wrote considerable in this book. Afternoon the weather more
moderate and pleasant, the wind has changed near south and the sun
shines. I walked with Horace Whitney to the river which is about a
half a mile. At 4:30 p.m. father James Case was cutting a cottonwood
tree to brouse his horses, and just as it fell the wind struck it and
threw it directly contrary to the direction he intended it to fall. The
consequence was, one of the limbs struck an ox on the neck and knocked
him down. His right eye was knocked down in the socket out of sight.
The ox doesn't seem seriously hurt otherwise. About 10 minutes after it
was done, the eye turned back to its place, and the ox seems to have
sustained little injury. At 5:00 p.m., the officers of the camp met
with President Young, and he told the order for traveling and camping
hereafter, which was communicated to the companies by the captains of
10's as follows:

At 5:00 in the morning the bugle is to be sounded as a signal for
every man to arise and attend prayers before he leaves his wagon. Then
cooking, eating, feeding teams, etc., till seven o'clock, at which time
the camp is to move at the sound of the bugle. Each teamster to keep
beside his team, with his loaded gun in his hands or in his wagon where
he can get it in a moment. The extra men, each to walk opposite his
wagon with his loaded gun on his shoulder, and no man to be permitted
to leave his wagon unless he obtains permission from his officer. In
case of an attack from Indians or hostile appearances, the wagons to
travel in double file. The order of encampment to be in a circle with
the mouth of the wagon to the outside, and the horses and stock tied
inside the circle. At 8:30 p.m. the bugle to be sounded again at which
time all to have prayers in their wagons and to retire to rest by nine
o'clock. Tonight I went to bed about seven-thirty o'clock suffering
severely with pain in my head and face. I slept with Philo Johnson.

Monday, April 19

At 5:00 a.m., at the sound of the bugle I arose, my face still paining
me very badly. After eating breakfast, I started out on foot, before
the wagons started, with my rifle on my shoulder. At 7:15 the wagons
began to move and at 7:30 were all formed in double file and proceeded
on. After traveling about eight miles we arrived at a number of small
lakes, where were many ducks. A number of the brethren shot at them and
killed several. At 1:15 p.m. we arrived at a bend in the river where a
small stream runs around an island.

We stayed here to feed awhile, having traveled about fifteen miles
mostly a western course with the wind south. The roads very good and
the country very level on these flat bottoms of the Platte river
which bottoms appear to be from ten to fifteen miles wide. Soon
after the camp was formed, O. P. Rockwell, Jackson Redding, and
J. C. Little came in from Winter Quarters. They arrived at 2:10.
They have found Dr. Richard's mare which was lost east of the Elk
Horn and brought her to camp. They brought me a line from Diantha
and one from Ruth and Margaret. In the last was a very gentle piece
of information which has caused me to reflect much, and proves to me
that Ruth and Margaret's virtue and integrity have for the last year
been far superior to mine. In my letter to them I requested them to
attend to family prayer in my absence, a thing which I have neglected
since leaving Nauvoo. They informed me that they had done that when I
was at home but unknown to me, and they had then, and still continue
to bear me up before their Heavenly Father. Oh, what integrity, what
faithfulness. I feel unworthy to possess two such treasures, but still
feel to try to reward them for it, and may my Father in heaven bless
them, and all my family and let his angels guard them, and me during
my absence that we may all be permitted to meet again and enjoy each
other's society in this world for many years to come, and eternal
in the world to come. O! Lord, grant this prayer of thine unworthy
servant, and fill my family with peace and union, and open a way that
they may have the necessaries and comforts of life, and Thy name shall
have the praise, even so, amen.

I received by Porter, some few fish hooks and lines, a ball of fish
line and three pencils, but no small hooks nor knives or wafers. At
twenty minutes after 3:00 p.m. the wagons began to move again, in the
same order as this morning and traveled until 6:00 p.m. when we arrived
at a very pretty open view of the Platte river, and the encampment was
formed in a semi-circle on its banks, having traveled since noon, about
five miles, and in the whole day 20 miles, over the same kind of dry,
level, sandy bottom. The river here appears to be about a mile wide
but very shoal. There is not much timber where we are camped, and the
water is pretty muddy. I walked some this afternoon in company with
Orson Pratt and suggested to him the idea of fixing a set of wooden cog
wheels to the hub of a wagon wheel, in such order as to tell the exact
number of miles we travel each day. He seemed to agree with me that it
could be easily done at a trifling expense. After the encampment was
formed, I went to Brother Luke Johnson and asked him to draw my tooth
which has pained me so much for a long time. While I was speaking to
him Stephen Markham came up, and wanted him to take his team and the
Revenue Cutter the name by which the leather boat is called back about
two miles, as they designed to seine in one of the lakes. Brother Luke
Johnson drives the team which draws the boat and rides in the boat as
in a wagon. I concluded I would go and watch them fish and started out
on foot. I overtook Markham and John S. Higbee and in our conversation
I mentioned to Brother John S. Higbee the same idea I had advanced to
Orson Pratt, and he also seemed to coincide fully. After arriving at
the lake they launched the boat and made three hauls. They only caught
a snapping turtle, four small turtles, one duck, two small cat fish,
and two creek suckers. They then concluded to return and I started on
foot again with two rifles to carry. I got back to camp before they
overtook me and being perfectly tired and very footsore, went to bed,
but had no rest on account of the severe pain in my head and face.

Tuesday, April 20

Arose at 5:30, my head and face very bad indeed. I ate but little
breakfast, although we had a couple of ducks and a snipe. We started
out at 7:30, the morning pleasant except a strong west wind. At 9:15
arrived at Shell creek, which is about six or eight feet wide, and a
poor bridge over it, but all the wagons got well over. This is about
five miles from where we camped last night. We then passed through a
small grove of timber, and entered again upon the wide, open prairie
bottom. At 11:30 we stopped beside a small slough or lake to feed and
eat, etc., being five miles from Shell creek. While stopping here,
three deer passed about half a mile west of the wagons. O. P.
Rockwell and Thomas Brown chased them on horses four or five miles, but
did not succeed in taking any of them. The wind has fallen considerably
and it is very warm and dusty. At 1:00 p.m. started again, the horse
teams taking the lead, traveled about ten miles farther and encamped
near a cotton wood grove on the banks of the river. The encampment was
formed about half past five. Tanner's bellows and anvil were set up and
a number of tires set before dark.

John S. Higbee, Luke Johnson, S. Markham, and some others, started
ahead of the camp about noon, and went about two miles farther than
this place to a lake with the boat and seine. They took over 200 very
nice fish, and arrived with them about the time the camp was formed.
The fish were distributed around the camp according to the number of
persons in each wagon, generally two to a wagon, and the brethren
enjoyed a good supper on fish. I went to the river and washed my feet
which were very dusty and sore. I also washed my socks as well as I
could in cold water without soap. After Brother Luke Johnson had got
through distributing fish, I went and asked him to draw my tooth. He
willingly agreed and getting his instruments, I sat down in a chair,
he lanced the gum, then took his nippers and jerked it out. The whole
operation did not take more than one minute. He only got half the
original tooth, the balance being left in the jaw. After this my head
and face pained me much more than before. I ate but little supper and
then lay down, but could not sleep for pain till near morning. The
evening was very calm and pleasant.

Wednesday, April 21

Arose at 5:00, my face easier, but swollen and my gums raw. Took
breakfast on fish and coffee, but ate no bread, it being very dry and
hard. I could not bear to put it in my mouth. At seven started on
foot; the ox teams being gone ahead. Some appearances of rain, and a
slight shower fell. Wind northeast and pretty cool. At ten minutes to
nine an Indian rode up to the first wagon and appeared very friendly.
Soon after six or eight others came running on foot. They came from
the timber about a mile to the left. At 10:00 we arrived at a fork in
the road, the one on the left leading to the new Pawnee village, and
the one to the right leaving the village some distance to the south. A
consultation was held by President Young with father Case relative to
the roads crossing the river, etc., when it was concluded to take the
right hand road. We proceeded accordingly and at 12:00 came in sight
of the new Pawnee village, in an open spot on the south bank of the
Loop Fork, between two bodies of timber. The village appeared to be
about three quarters of a mile south of the road we were on. At 12:30
we were opposite the village, and could then see distinctly upwards
of 100 lodges set pretty close together, and appeared to be ranged in
several lines, and set in good order. We proceeded until we arrived at
a long narrow lake by the side of the timber and near to the river. At
1:00 p.m. the encampment was formed on the bank of the lake and a guard
instantly placed at the passes, as many of the Indians had followed us,
although they had to wade the river, but it is very shoal. One of the
Indians presented several certificates from persons who had previously
traveled through their village, all certifying that the Grand Chief of
the Pawnees was friendly disposed, and they had made him presents of
a little powder, lead, salt, etc. Heber gave them a little tobacco,
and a little salt. President Young gave to the chief, some powder,
lead, salt and a number of the brethren gave a little flour each. The
old chief, however, did not seem to think the presents sufficient,
and said he did not like us to go west through their country, he was
afraid we should kill their buffalo and drive them off. Brother Shumway
told him we did not like buffalo, but this does not appear to give
him much satisfaction. However, there was no appearance of hostility.
In fact, all that came to camp seemed highly pleased to shake hands
with our brethren and would run from one side to another so as not
to miss one. A number of the squaws were on the opposite side of the
lake with mattocks digging roots. Brother Shumway says there are
about twelve thousand of the Pawnees in this neighborhood, and it is
reported that there are five thousand warriors. We did not see many of
them. Larpy is at their village trading, and it is uncertain whether
he will endeavor to use an influence for us or against us. We have no
fear, however, because their only object appears to be plunder, and it
is the calculation to be well prepared by night and day. During the
resting hour I spent the time writing in my journal. At 2:15 p.m. the
ox teams started out again and the horse teams soon after. The weather
had been calm and pleasant for a few hours, but about 2:00 or a little
before, some heavy clouds began to gather, and thunder was heard at a
distance. About 2:30 the rain began to descend heavily, accompanied by
heavy peals of thunder and vivid lightning which continued till about
4:00. A strong north wind blew up, the rain and thunder ceased and the
weather grew very cold. We traveled till 5:30 and the encampment was
formed on the Loop Fork of the Platte river. After the encampment was
formed and teams turned out, the brethren were all called together and
some remarks made by President Young, advising them to have a strong
guard round the camps tonight. He called for volunteers to stand guard
and about 100 volunteered amongst whom were all the twelve except Dr.
Richards. This guard was divided into two companies of fifty each, one
company to stand the first half the night, and the remainder the last
half. Those of the twelve who stood took the first watch till 1:00.
Brigham and Heber both stood on guard. Out of the companies a party
were stationed as a picket guard some distance from the camp, the
balance stood near the camp. The night was very cold, with a strong
wind from the northeast, and in the middle of the night, it rained
considerable. Our course this morning was about west. This afternoon,
northwest. We are now within three miles from the bluffs on the north.
We have traveled today about twenty miles, the roads being good and
very level. The grass here is short but looks good. The buffalo grass
is very short and curly like the hair on a buffalo robe. The spring
grass doesn't seem to be as early here as at the Elk Horn, and the last
year's growth not being burnt off, will be rather a disadvantage to
the spring companies. I have noticed all the way on this bottom from
the Elk Horn, that the ground is full of wild onions which appear far
richer and larger than any wild onions I ever saw. I have no idea that
corn would grow here for the land is very dry and loose and sandy, and
appears poor. The country is beautiful and pleasing to the eye of the
traveler, although you can only see one kind of scenery for several
days.

Thursday, April 22

Arose soon after 5:00 a.m., my face very painful again caused by the
cold. There has been no trouble from the Indians and all is peace and
safe. The cannon was prepared for action, and stood all night just
outside the wagons. There was considerable joking this morning on
account of two of the picket guard having their guns stolen and Colonel
Markham having his hat stolen. The owners were found asleep while on
guard and those who found them so, took their guns to be a warning
to them, but it is difficult for men to keep awake night after night
after traveling 20 miles in the day, taking care of teams, cooking,
etc. At 7:30 the camp proceeded again. I went ahead on foot. About one
quarter of a mile from where we camped is one of the prettiest beds
of nettle I have seen for some time. Our road this morning lay beside
pretty heavy timber, and about a westerly course. After traveling two
miles, crossed Looking Glass creek, a small stream about a rod wide,
but easily forded. I still went ahead on foot and at 9:45 sat down on
an Indian grave, on top of a mound from whence is a splendid view of
the surrounding country for many miles. From southeast to southwest you
can see the course of the Loop Fork for a number of miles. Northwest a
level prairie about four miles and then a range of timber. The bluffs
on the north about seven miles distant, and on the east a level prairie
for about twenty miles. At this place there is a range of what appears
to be mounds about a quarter of a mile long, running from northeast to
southwest. At 12:15 we arrived on the east bank of Beaver River, having
traveled about ten miles. This stream is about twenty to twenty-five
feet wide; swift, clear water and pleasant tasting. The banks are
tolerably well lined with timber. Here we stopped to feed. Some of the
brethren went to fix the fording place a little, the banks are steep
on each side and the water a little over two feet deep. At 2:00 p.m.
started again, the ox teams first. When passing the river a number of
the brethren stood on the west bank with a long rope which was hooked
to the wagon tongue and they assisted the teams up the bank. The wagon
I rode in crossed at two minutes after 2:00, and in a little while all
were safely over. We proceeded on till half past five, when we arrived
at the Pawnee Missionary station which is about seven miles from Beaver
River. The country this afternoon was more uneven, there being many
steep ditches and rises. The grass appears longer and there is much
rosing weed. The soil looks black and no doubt would yield a good crop
of corn. This missionary station was deserted last fall, and Brother
Miller's company being camped here, they carried the missionaries
and their effects to Bellview on the Missouri river. This is a very
beautiful place for a location. On the north and west it is surrounded
by bluffs, on the south by the Loop Fork at about three quarters of a
mile distance. On the east by descending prairie. The Plumb Creek runs
through it, and but a few rods from the missionaries' house. Its banks
are lined with a little timber. There is also a steep bank on each
side, and between these banks in the valley which is a few rods wide,
the Sioux have practiced coming down when they have made their attacks
on the Pawnees. The ravine is certainly well calculated to shelter
an enemy from observation when designing to make a sudden attack.
There are a number of good log houses here, considerable land under
improvement enclosed by rail fences, and a good quantity of hay and
fodder, large lots of iron, old and new, several plows and a drag. All
apparently left to rot. There are also two stoves, etc. The government
station is a quarter of a mile below, or south where father Case lived
as government farmer and received $300.00 a year for it, but when Major
Harvey learned at the last payday, which was last November, that father
Case had joined the "Mormons" he very politely dismissed him from the
government service. The Sioux came down sometime ago and burned up
the government station houses, blacksmith shop and everything, but
the missionary station they did not touch. This place according to
my account is 134 miles from Winter Quarters, and a lovely place to
live. Before dark the President called the camp together, and told
them they might use the fodder and hay for their teams, but forbade
any man carrying anything away, even to the value of one cent. He said
he had no fears of the Pawnees troubling us here, but we had better be
prepared lest the Sioux should come down and try to steal horses. A
guard was selected and a picket guard to watch the ravine to the north.
The cannon was also prepared and Brother Tanner drilled his men to use
it till dark. At 9:00 p.m. I retired to rest and slept well through the
night. The variation of the compass is about 12 degrees at this place.

I again introduced the subject of fixing machinery to a wagon wheel to
tell the distance we travel, describing the machinery and time it would
take to make it, etc., several caught, the idea and feel confident of
its success.

Friday, April 23

Arose this morning at 5:30, my face bad again through sleeping cold.
The air chilly but a very pleasant morning. President Young, Heber and
others are gone to the river to ascertain where we can best ford it.
There is a ford a little distance from here, and another about four
miles above, but the latter is in the neighborhood of another band of
the Pawnees and they are desirous to avoid it if possible. They started
out on horseback at a quarter to eight and the camp remained here till
they returned. Some are working, some fixing wagons, etc. The day is
now warm and very pleasant. I went to Plumb creek and washed my feet
which are very sore. The brethren returned at a quarter to 12:00 and
reported that we would have to go about four miles and there build
a raft. Tarlton Lewis was appointed to superintend the building of
the raft. President Young then stated in regard to the plows, iron,
etc., which lies around here, for the government is owing father Case
considerable for services, and he has the privilege of taking this for
his pay. He will do it and if the brethren want the iron, etc., they
can have by hauling it, one half, and father Case the other half, and
he (Case) will write and inform them what he has done. I started on
foot about 12:00 and viewed the ruins of buildings, etc., which the
Sioux have burned. There is a large quantity of good bar iron, and a
number of plows, which the brethren put into their wagons on the terms
proposed by father Case. Two miles from Plumb creek, passed another
creek not very good to ford, although it is narrow but sandy. Two miles
farther arrived at the intended crossing place, but the prospect looks
dull for rafting on account of sandbars and very rapid current. My feet
were so sore and blistered I could not walk for some time after I got
there. The sun is very hot and no wind. At 3:20 the wagons arrived and
prepared to ford the river. Luke Johnson was the first who went over,
leaving the boat on this side, and although he had no load, nor even a
wagon box, it was with difficulty he got over. Orson Pratt started next
with a part of his load. When he had got in about a rod, his horses
began to sink some in the sand and they could not draw. A number of the
brethren jumped in and lifted at the wheels, etc., till they got him to
the bar in the middle. He then started for the other bar and about half
way across his horses sank in the quicksand so badly that one of them
fell down. A number of the men immediately went to his assistance and
took them off the wagon and led them across to the sand bar. President
Young went over in the boat and took the loading out of the carriage
into the boat. The carriage was drawn to the sand bar by men with a
long rope. The brethren then assisted Elder Woodruff's team over in
the same way, also John Pack's and Wordsworth's. President Young then
ordered that no more wagons should go over that way, but move up the
river about a quarter of a mile and camp until morning. The camp was
formed about 5:30 p.m. The river is not more than two feet deep, but
there are a great many beds of quicksand which are dangerous to teams,
and calculated to shake a wagon to pieces. They make a noise when
crossing the quicksands as if they were going over a stone pavement.

The country here is indeed beautiful and appears rich, but there is
very little timber. After crossing Plumb creek, there is plowed land
for nearly two miles on the right but not fenced. It appears to have
yielded a good crop of corn. The land on the left to the river is level
and beautiful for a farm. We are now camped about a quarter of a mile
from the old Pawnee village on a splendid table of land, level and
pleasant as heart could desire. It is not much over three quarters of
a mile wide and shielded on the north by beautiful rolling bluffs and
on the south by the Loop Fork of the Platte. From this bank can be seen
the timber on the banks of the main Platte, the bottom from here to it
appears very level. There is something romantic in the scenery around
here, and the prospect cannot well be exaggerated.

In the evening the captains of tens were called together and a vote
taken to build two light rafts, Tarlton Lewis to superintend one and
Thomas Woolsey the other. As many loads of property as can be carried
over in the boat will be done, and the teams with empty wagons will
ford it. It is said that by going over several times with teams the
sand will pack down and be good crossing, several of those who have
been across believe this from today's experience and they calculate to
give it a fair trial tomorrow. Amongst the rest of those who waded the
river to help the wagons over, Brother Kimball joined and assisted one
team to the other side, and then returned in the boat with President
Young.

Saturday, April 24

Arose soon after 5:00. Morning fine, but cool. One of Phineas Young's
horses was choked to death last night. It appears he was tied to a
stake with a chain near a steep hole in the ravine, and either stepped
back or lay down and rolled over into the hole, and the chain being
short he was choked to death, having no power to extricate himself.
This is a grievous loss for there are no more teams in the camp than
what are absolutely necessary, and in fact, there are hardly enough to
get along very comfortably. By request of Brother Kimball, I went up to
the old Indian village immediately after breakfast to take a view of
it, and write a description as near as circumstances would permit which
is as follows:

This village is situated on the north bank of the Loop Fork of the
Nebraska or Platte river, about four miles southwest of the mission
station on Plumb creek and 138 miles from Winter Quarters. The Pawnee
nation is divided into four bands. The names of the bands are the Grand
Pawnee, the Loop, the Tappas, and the Republican. When the nation
settled in this region the Grand Pawnees and the Tappas located on the
west bank of Plumb creek and the Loops located on this spot and were
afterwards joined by the Republicans. When the Sioux made war on the
Indians at the first settlement and destroyed their village, the Grand
Chief saw that his party were unable to cope with their hostile foes
alone, and it was concluded that the four bands should locate together
on this spot, but notwithstanding this, the Sioux succeeded in burning
this village last summer during the absence of the Pawnees when on
their hunt. They rebuilt most of it again, but last fall the Sioux
made another attack and burned the whole village except one dwelling
or lodge, which is not harmed. There are three or four others but
partially destroyed, the rest are entirely demolished and levelled with
the ground. The Pawnees then moved to the place where we passed them a
few days ago, and are dwelling in their lodges made of hides, etc. The
name of the Grand Chief is Shefmolan, who is also the superior chief
of the Pawnee band. All documents or treaties made by the nation are
signed by this chief and the nation is then bound by them. The head
chief of the Loup band is named Siscatup, the other chiefs, father Case
did not recollect their names. From him I obtained this information.
There is a part of the Loup band on the main Platte, some distance from
here, who have never yielded to the government treaties, but stand out
from the rest of the nation and spend their time mostly in plundering
other tribes as well as travelers. They frequently go as far as the
Cherokee nation to rob and plunder. All the Pawnee nation are noted for
their love of plundering travelers of their horses and mules, but not
often anything else.

On the east and west of the village is a beautiful level bench of
prairie extending many miles, and to the ridge of bluffs which run
east and west touching within a mile of the village. On the top of the
bluffs can be seen a number of Indian graves. To the northwest about
a mile distant, and at the foot of the bluffs is an extensive corn
field, the stalks still standing. On the south is a beautiful view of
the nice level prairie extending to the main branch of the Platte, the
timber on the banks can be faintly, but plainly seen. The Loup Fork
is probably about 400 yards wide at this place and very shoal, except
a narrow channel near the shore on this side which is probably three
feet deep. The bottom is mostly quicksand and not safe fording. About
half the surface from bank to bank is sand bars which appear above the
surface of the water mostly on the south side. There are several small
islands and a little timber to the right or west. The village occupies
a space of about 40 acres of land, and is mostly enclosed by a ditch
about five feet wide, and a bank inside the ditch about four feet high,
running from the bank of the river around the village till it again
strikes the bank, and when perfect, has formed a good fortification. A
number of lodges are built outside the ditch on the east and on account
of want of room inside when the bands from the other village joined
them. The village is composed of about 200 houses or lodges varying
in size but all similarly constructed, as appears from the remnants
of some left standing. While I take this sketch, I sit in the one
left unharmed, which it is said was owned by the chief Siscatup, and
as the lodges are all constructed in the same manner, only differing
in size, I will endeavor to describe the way in which this is built.
In the first place, the earth is dug out a little, slanting to the
depth of about 18 inches in the form of a perfect circle about 44 feet
in diameter. This forms the floor of the dwelling. Then there are 17
crotch posts let into the floor in a direction slanting outward so that
the top of the crotch is about perpendicular with the outside of the
circle, the foot being set about 18 or 20 inches from the base of the
circle. These posts are arranged at about equal distances from each
other around the circle. In the crotches, poles are laid across from
crotch to crotch, and are sufficiently high for the tallest man to
stand upright under them. At the distance of 18 or 20 inches from the
outside of the circle are many smaller poles let into the surface of
the ground, on an average of about a foot apart and leaning inward so
that the top of the poles rest on the cross pieces which are supported
by the crotches. The space between the foot of these poles and the edge
of the circle forms a bench for seats entirely around the house, and
there is room sufficient for more than a hundred men to seat themselves
on it very comfortably. On the outside of these last mentioned poles
are laid a number of still smaller poles horizontally from bottom to
top from about 9 inches to a foot apart, these are lashed fast to
the upright poles by strings made of bark. On the outside of these
is laid a thick layer of long prairie grass and occasionally lashed
through to the upright poles also. The whole is then covered with
earth about two feet in thickness at the bottom and gradually thinner
towards the top. This forms an enclosure when completed around the
whole area about seven feet high, a place being left sufficiently large
for the door. The next process is to place erect ten upright poles or
crotches, very stout, being about a foot in diameter about seven feet
nearer the center of the circle than the first crotches. These are set
perpendicular, deep in the ground and also arranged at about equal
distances from each other, and form a strong foundation which is the
design and use to which they are appropriated. On the top of these
pillars are also horizontal poles laid strong and firm, the top of the
pillars being about eleven or twelve feet above the floor. Long small
poles are then laid from the outside horizontal poles over the inner
ones and sufficiently long to meet at the top within about two feet
of each other, forming a hole for the smoke from the fire to ascend
through. These long poles are laid pretty close together all around
the building, and across them smaller ones are lashed with bark as in
the first instance, only they are much closer together. The operation
of lashing on a layer of long grass and finally covering the whole
with earth, completes the roof of the building. The door or entrance
is a long porch formed by placing in the earth four upright posts or
crotches far enough apart to extend outwards from the circle, about 18
or 20 feet. There are four upright crotches on each side the porch and
in the crotches, poles are laid horizontally as in the other parts of
the building. The process of lashing sticks across, then a thick coat
of long grass and lastly a stout coat of earth, is the same as the
other parts of the building. The roof of the porch is flat and is about
seven feet high and six feet wide. The porch is dug down about half
as deep as the main building, making a short step at the mouth of the
porch and another one at the entrance into the house. The fire has been
made in the center of the house directly under the hole in the roof.

At the farther side of the building, exactly opposite the porch, is
a projection of sod left about a foot from the outside of the circle
which is said to have been the seat of the chief, and over which hung
his medicine bag and other implements.

The crotches are arranged so that there is a free passage to the center
of the hall from the porch one standing on each side at the entrance
about six feet apart and the others appear to be arranged from them.
The smaller houses have not so many pillars as this one. Some have
eight in the center and sixteen outside the circle. Others have four
in the center and ten outside. The entrances are also smaller in
proportion, but all are constructed on the same principle. It looks a
little singular to note that nearly all the entrances to these lodges
front to the southeast, except in one or two instances where they front
in other directions for lack of room. It is probable that this is done
to avoid the effects of the severe cold northwest winds so prevalent in
winter.

Adjacent to each lodge is a stable or pen, which has been designed for
keeping horses in. These are mostly left unharmed. They are constructed
by placing poles upright in the ground from two to three inches in
diameter as close together as possible and about ten feet high. About
five or six feet above the ground cross poles are laid horizontally,
and each of the upright poles are firmly lashed to the cross poles by
strips of bark, so as to make them firm and secure them from being
moved out of their place. The stables are mostly built square, with
a door left on one side sufficiently large to admit a horse. There
are some circular stables but not so many as the square ones. The
horses appear to have been penned in by placing loose poles across the
doorway, for there is no other sign of a door visible.

Around each lodge there are also several cachets where corn and other
necessities are deposited. The cachets are large holes dug in the
ground, or rather under the ground, the entrance being only just large
enough to admit a common sized man. They are made pretty much after the
shape of a large demijon. The cachets are generally about six feet high
inside and about fifteen feet in diameter; there is a gradual slope
from the mouth to the extreme corner and a little bowing, which forms
the roof. The surface of the earth above, at the mouth, is about two
and a half or three feet deep. Some of these are said to be capable of
holding a hundred bushels of corn, and when filled there is a thick
coat of grass laid on the top and the mouth then filled up nicely with
earth, and when finished a stranger would not have the least suspicion
that there was a storehouse full of corn under his feet.

I finished taking the foregoing sketch soon after noon, and then had
intended to go on the bluffs and examine the Indian graves, but it
being very warm, and perceiving the teams crossing the river very
rapidly, I returned, and found most of the teams over. They commenced
crossing about eight o'clock, some unloaded their goods on the bank
which were carried in the boat to the sand bar, the teams going down to
the ferry to cross. After a few wagons had gone over, it was perceived
that they went over with less difficulty, and by doubling teams they
soon took over the loaded wagons without much difficulty. I prepared
to wade over the river, inasmuch as the wagon I am with was gone over,
and in fact, all Heber's wagons were over except one, but Jackson
Redding brought me Porter Rockwell's horse to ride over, and I mounted
and proceeded. I found the current strong indeed, and about as much as
a horse could do to ford it without a load. I soon got over safe and
wet only my feet. At 3:00 p.m. the last wagon was over on the solid
sand bar, and about four o'clock all the wagons and teams were safely
landed on the bank on the south side of the Loop Fork without any loss
or accident, which made the brethren feel thankful indeed. A little
before four, the wagons started on to find a better place to camp and
feed for our teams, where we can stay comfortable until Monday and give
the teams a chance to rest, for they as well as the men are very tired
by wading against the strong current on the quick sand. The bottom
land on this side is more sandy than on the other side, but the grass
appears higher but not so thick on the ground. The bluffs on the other
side look beautiful from here, and the Indian graves show very plain.
We went on about three miles and camped beside a small lake near the
river. I traveled this on foot. Soon as we arrived Porter Rockwell
discovered that there were many sun fish in the lake. I took a couple
of hooks and lines, handed some to him, and went to fishing myself
with the others and we had some fine sport. I caught a nice mess which
Brother Egan cooked for supper, and although they were small they made
a good dish. Many of the brethren caught a good mess each. Brother
Higbee came down with the seine and made two hauls but caught none on
account of the grass in the bottom of the lake. We have good reasons
to suspect that we are watched by the Indians as their footsteps have
been seen on the bluffs south, apparently very fresh, but the guard are
faithful and we have no fear. The cannon was prepared again so as to be
ready in case there should be an attack. Evening I walked over to Orson
Pratt's wagon, and through his telescope saw Jupiter's four moons very
distinctly never having seen them before. I went over to my wagon and
looked through my glass and could see them with it, but not so distinct
as with Orson's. The evening was very fine and pleasant. About ten
o'clock retired to rest in good health and spirits, thankful for the
mercies of the day that is past.

Sunday, April 25

Arose soon after five, shaved and changed some of my clothing. The
morning very pleasant, wind west. Our course for the last seven miles
has been about southwest. We are about 14 miles from the main branch
of the Platte river and it is said that if we travel on this fork one
hundred miles farther, we shall then be not over thirty miles from the
main branch. This morning saw four antelope on the other bank of the
river about a mile and a half northwest. Afternoon Elijah Newman was
baptized by Tarlton Lewis in the lake for the benefit of his health.
Brother Newman has been afflicted with the black scurvy in his legs and
has not been able to walk without sticks, but after being baptized and
hands laid on him he returned to his wagon without any kind of help
seemingly much better. Soon after 5:00 p.m. a meeting was called at the
wagon of President Young, and remarks made by several, and instructions
by President Young chiefly in reference to the guard and the folly
of conforming to gentile military customs on an expedition of this
nature. After dark the twelve and some others met together opposite
the President's wagon to select men to go a hunting buffalo, etc., as
we proceed on the journey. It was ascertained that there are eight
horses in the company which are not attached to teams. Then eight men
were selected to ride on horseback, viz., Thomas Woolsey, Thomas Brown,
John Brown, O. P. Rockwell, John S. Higbee, Joseph Mathews. Then
there were selected eleven men to hunt also on foot, viz., John Pack,
Phineas H. Young, Tarlton Lewis, Joseph Hancock, Edmund Ellsworth,
Roswell Stevens, Edson Whipple, Barnabas L. Adams, Benjamin F. Stewart,
Jackson Redding and Eric Glines. It was also voted that the twelve have
the privilege of hunting when they have a mind to. After some remarks
and cautions in regard to chasing the wild buffalo, the company was
dismissed, and I retired to rest soon after nine o'clock, the evening
being very fine and pleasant.

Monday, April 26

This morning about 3:30 an alarm was sounded. I immediately got out of
the wagon and learned that three of the guard who were stationed to the
northeast of the camp had discovered some Indians crawling up towards
the wagons. They first received alarm from the motions of one of our
horses, and noticing this they went towards the spot and listening,
heard something rustle in the grass; they first suspected they were
wolves and fired at them. Only one gun went off and six Indians sprang
up and ran from within a few rods of where they stood, another gun was
then fired at them and the camp alarmed. A strong guard was placed all
around, and a charge of cannister put in the cannon. The day was just
breaking when this took place and the moon had just gone down. The
air being extremely cold and fires put out, I retired into the wagon
till morning and arose again at half past five. After daylight, the
footsteps of the Indians could be plainly seen where they had come down
under the bank and sometimes stepped into the water. No doubt their
object was to steal horses, and they had a fair privilege if the guard
had been found asleep, for the camp was only formed in a half circle
and some horses were tied outside. However, the prompt reception they
met with will have a tendency to show them that we keep a good watch
and may deter them from making another attempt. Orders were given for
the tens to assemble for prayers this morning, instead of two in each
wagon, which was done. President Young told me this morning that as
soon as my health will permit, he wants me to assist Brother Bullock in
keeping minutes, etc., as Brother Bullock is hard run, having to take
care of a team and attend to other chores.

The camp started out about 8:00 a.m. I started at 7:30 on foot and
traveled four miles, then waited for the wagons. There is no road here,
consequently, President Young, Kimball, G. A. Smith, A. Lyman and
others went ahead on horseback to point out the road. The horse teams
traveled first to break the strong grass so that it will not hurt the
oxen's feet. The hunters started out in different directions keeping
only a few miles from the wagons. We traveled about seven miles and
then stopped at 11:30 beside a few little holes of water to rest and
feed teams, etc. From this place which is somewhat elevated, can be
seen the remains of an old village or Indian fort, over the river about
northwest from here. The country looks beautiful, somewhat rolling and
bounded by uneven bluffs. The land looks poor and sandy. The sun is
very hot and not much wind. I find it has a great tendency to make sore
lips, parched up and feverish. At 1:45 all the wagons were on the way
again. We traveled about seven miles. We crossed two slough or soft
places though not very bad. They are the first since we left Winter
Quarters. The roads are more uneven than on the other side the river.
We had to make a new road all day. At 6:15 the encampment was formed on
the east banks of a small creek with a very gravelly bottom. The wagons
are formed in a deep hollow and so low that they cannot be seen at a
quarter of a mile distance. There is no fresh grass here, neither has
the old grass been burnt off. We have crossed a number of trails today
which some say are buffalo trails. They all run towards the river, and
in some places there are 8 or 9, others, not more than two, and so on,
together running about a half a yard apart. The hunters have seen no
buffalo. Woolsey killed a goose. There is no timber here, only a few
small willows. We are about a half a mile from the river, and there
doesn't seem to be much timber on the river. Our course today has been
about southwest. About a mile back from this place situated on a high
bench of land on the banks of the river is the remains of an Indian
village, the houses or lodges being all down and no appearance of
timber left. The entrances to these lodges all face to the southeast,
the same as those back at the other village. There has evidently been a
garden around the village as the land has been broken and bears marks
of cultivation. This morning Brother Benson discovered that one of the
iron axles of his wagon was broken, and he moved the load so that there
was no weight on the part which was broken, and traveled with it all
day. This evening the wagon was unloaded, the axle taken off, Brother
Tanner's forge set up, and the axle welded and fixed ready to put to
the wagon again. This was done in the short space of one hour after the
encampment was formed. The welding was performed by Brother Burr Fost.
About eight o'clock Joseph Mathews came into camp from seeking his
horses and stated that an Indian had rode a horse off a little before
and he supposed it was Brother Little's horse, which was missing. Dr.
Richards' mare was also missing. Brother Mathews stated that he went
out to seek for his black man who was out watching his teams, and as
he arrived he saw Brother Little's horse as he supposed going towards
the river. He ran towards it to turn it back to camp, but as soon as he
commenced running the horse sprang to a gallop, which made him suppose
there was an Indian on him although he could not see the Indian. As
soon as he gave the alarm five or six of the brethren mounted their
horses, and pursued on the course pointed out to the river, but could
neither see nor hear a horse or Indian. When they returned, President
Young and Kimball and a number of others went out on horseback and
searched till near eleven o'clock, but likewise proved unsuccessful.
The brethren have been repeatedly warned not to let their horses go far
from their wagons, but every time we stop they can be seen around for
more than two miles. These are two good horses and the owners feel bad
enough, but it will be a warning to others to be more careful.

Tuesday, April 27

Arose soon after five. The morning fine and pleasant. During the night
the guard fired twice but they supposed they were wolves they fired
at. I went back to the old Indian village before breakfast, and also
with O. P. Rockwell, to see if any tracks of the lost horses could
be found. He followed one track some way into a bunch of willows, but
having no arms we returned. At 7:45 the wagons commenced moving and
traveled till 2:15 being about twelve miles nearly a south course, the
design being to go to the main branch of the Platte. President Young,
Kimball and others went forward again to point out the road. O. P.
Rockwell and some others started back to hunt the horses about the time
we started. The land today has been very rolling and uneven. It is also
very sandy and dry. After traveling about four miles through dead grass
we found a large space where the grass had been burned off. Here it is
quite green, and there are quantities of buffalo dung, which proves
that we are not far distant from some of them. The hunters have been
out again but have not discovered any. There are a great many lizards
on these sand ridges, but they are of a small size. President Young and
Kimball discovered a dog town a piece back, and many little prairie
dogs. In one hole was a very large rattlesnake, and around the holes
many small owls which seem to correspond with what travelers have said
previously, that the prairie dog, rattlesnakes, and owls all live in
the same hole together. The sun is very hot but there is a nice west
wind although it is dry and parches our lips. When we stopped at noon
the brethren dug several holes and obtained a little water, as there is
none here above the surface. They could not obtain any for the cattle
and horses. At 3:15 the teams commenced to move again. Just as they
started, John Brown, Roswell Stevens and Brother Woodruff all shot
at an antelope. They all hit him and killed him. Having skinned it,
they put it into one of the wagons. The afternoon was very hot and the
roads very dusty. After traveling about two miles some of the ox teams
gave out and had to stop and feed. The rest went on till they found
a small branch of water and the grass being very good we stopped for
the night at half past five, having traveled about four miles, course
about south. President Young and several others went back with mules
and horses to assist the teams up which are behind. Luke Johnson shot
a very large rattlesnake and brought it to camp for the oil. Roswell
Stevens killed a hare, the nearest like the English hare of any I have
seen in this country. Soon after we arrived here it began to lightning
and thunder and we had a light shower with a very strong wind. There is
an appearance of more rain which is very much needed indeed. At 6:30
O. P. Rockwell, Joseph Mathews, John Eldridge and Thomas Brown
returned from hunting the two lost horses. They reported that they
went back to within about two miles of where we encamped on Sunday and
looking off towards the river they saw something move in the grass at
the foot of a high mole. They proceeded towards it thinking it was a
wolf, when within about twelve or fourteen rods Porter stopped to shoot
at the supposed wolf. The moment he elevated his rifle, fifteen Indians
sprang to their feet, all naked except the breech cloth, and armed
with rifles and bows and arrows. Each man having a rifle slung on his
back, and his bow strung tight in his hand and about twenty arrows.
The Indians advanced towards them but the brethren motioned and told
them to stop and held their rifles and pistols ready to meet them. When
the Indians saw this they began to holler "bacco! bacco!" The brethren
told them they had not tobacco. One of the Indians came close beside
J. Mathew's horse to shake hands with Mathews but kept his eye on the
horse's bridle. When nearly within reach of the bridle, Brown cocked
his pistol and pointed at the Indian shouting if he did not leave he
would kill him. At which, the Indian seeing the pistol ready to fire,
retreated. The Indians made signs to get the brethren lower down the
river, but the brethren turned their horses to come to camp, thinking
it unsafe to go near to the timber where they expected more Indians
lay in ambush. When the brethren turned to come back the Indians fired
six shots at them with their rifles and the brethren immediately faced
about at which the Indians fled towards the timber below. The brethren
did not shoot at the Indians, even when the Indians shot at them. They
saw the tracks of the horses which are missing and returned satisfied
that Pawnees have got them, and no doubt intended to get the horses on
which the brethren rode, but they met with too stern a reception to
risk an attempt. Some of these same Indians were amongst those who came
into camp when we stopped for dinner near their village, and proves
that they eyed the horses pretty close, and also proves that they have
followed us close ever since. The brethren ran great risks indeed, but
got back safe to camp without harm.

About the same time the brethren returned, a gun accidentally went
off and broke the nigh fore leg of Brother Mathew's horse. Those who
saw the accident state that when the rain came on, some of the men
put their guns in John Brown's wagon, loaded and with the caps on.
Brother Brown threw his coat on the guns, and soon after went to get
his coat and plucking it up, some part of the coat caught the cock
of the gun and raised it so that when the coat slipped off, the gun
went off, and the ball struck the horse's leg on the back side about
half way between the knee and upper joint. The bone was broke entirely
off. There were several men and horses close by the wagon at the time.
The wagon was set on fire, but soon put out with little damage. This
makes four of the best horses lost within the last four days, but the
last circumstance is by far the most painful, and breaks up Brother
Markham's team. Brother Brown made Heber a present of a little antelope
meat. About dark the wind moved to the north and blew strong a little
while and we had a little more rain.

Wednesday, April 28

Morning fine and pleasant, no Indians. The wind blew strong from
the northeast which makes it much cooler. There are many wolves and
antelope around here, but no buffalo have been seen as yet. Orders were
given this morning for no man to leave the wagons except the hunters.
The brethren had to make a road down to the small creek near which
we camped. This occupied till about nine o'clock, when the wagons
commenced crossing; the last wagon crossed at ten o'clock and then the
camp proceeded on, President Young, Kimball, and several others going
before to point out the road while the wagons were crossing the creek.
Brother Luke Johnson shot the horse dead which had his leg broke last
night. The horse belonged to Brother Barney, but was in Markham's team
and was a good one, but they concluded it was better to shoot her than
leave her alone to the mercy of the Indians. Our course for the first
seven miles was a little east of south over a very level prairie and
green with grass. The largest wild onions grow here I have ever seen.
After traveling about seven miles we turned southwest, being within
a mile of the main Platte and opposite to Grand Island. We traveled
till 2:30 and then stopped to feed, having come about eleven miles
today. The roads are extremely dusty and the strong wind blows it into
the wagons and everything is covered. We are now near to timber and a
good chance for grass for the cattle. At 4:00 p.m. we moved again and
traveled till six, having traveled about four miles, and during the
day, about fifteen miles. We have camped about a quarter of a mile from
the timber and there is plenty of grass to fill the stock tonight. The
water is also clear and cool and good tasting. The evening is cloudy
and very cool, which affects my head some. Suppered on some antelope
and went to bed early.

Thursday, April 29

The wagons started at five o'clock this morning before breakfast, to
find more grass as this is all eaten off. We traveled till 6:30 being
about three miles, and then turned out the teams to feed. The morning
very cool. There seems to be very little rain in this country and no
dew. Breakfasted on goose and mouldy bread. At twenty minutes after
eight, the teams started again and after traveling about two miles
came to a very pretty stream of good water, (Wood River) about ten
feet wide on an average, but at the fording place about a rod wide. We
were detained some here, but all got over safely. We then traveled on
a table or prairie gently ascending for four or five miles but very
even and good traveling. At 1:00 p.m. we stopped beside a small lake to
rest and feed teams, having traveled about ten miles today. The wind
south and strong. One of Orson Pratt's horses is very sick, supposed
to be the bots. He has lain down several times in the harness within
the last three hours. I am not astonished, as the wagons and everything
else is shrinking up, for the wind is perfectly dry and parching;
there is no moisture in it. Even my writing desk is splitting with the
drought. At 2:30 p.m. we started again and traveled till about 6:30
over tolerable level prairie, distance about eight miles, and nearly a
southwest course. The wind was strong from southwest till sundown and
then turned to northeast. The clouds of dust were almost sufficient to
suffocate everyone. I rode Heber's horse this afternoon and went before
the wagons. Saw many antelope, and the brethren had a good chance to
kill one, but they missed it, although three of them shot at it. We
camped at night close to Grand Island where there is an abundance of
rushes for cattle. There is also a white substance that seems to ooze
out of the ground around here, and tastes like salt, but not so strong
as common salt. Brother Orson Pratt's horse is better and the day has
passed without accident.

Friday, April 30

Arose at half past five. Morning cool and pleasant. The teams have
filled themselves with rushes. Started at 7:40 and soon after the camp
started, I started ahead on foot and have traveled about five miles.
The prairie level and green with grass. We travel on the first bench
about three quarters of a mile north of the timber on Grand Island.
There are many wild geese on the prairie, also buffalo dung, but
none very recent. There are immense patches of blue grass which from
appearances, the buffalo are fond of. There are also numerous patches
of buffalo grass which is very short, thick on the ground, and curly
like the hair on a buffalo's hide, and much resembling it, except in
color. About a mile from where we camped last night, we passed a place
where the Indians have camped no doubt during their hunt. They must
have been very numerous for their camp has covered a number of acres of
ground. President Young, Kimball and Lyman are gone ahead on horseback
to look out the road. We have thus far followed the Indian trail, but
it is now so grown over and so old it is scarce discernible. The wind
blows strong from the north and the dust is very bad. The atmosphere is
dull and cloudy. Our course today has been about west. At a quarter to
twelve we stopped to feed beside a small creek of clear, good, water,
having traveled about eight miles. The grass along this creek is long
and plentiful. We are about a half a mile from Grand Island.

Having the privilege of copying from Brother Bullock's journal, I will
now record the names of the standing guard as organized April 16th,
also the men selected by Brother Tanner to form the gun division as
ordered Saturday, April 17th.

Tarlton Lewis, Stephen H. Goddard, Seeley Owens, Thomas Woolsey, John
G. Luce, Horace Thorton, Charles D. Barnam, Sylvester H. Earl, George
Scholes, Rufus Allen, William Empey, John Holman, George R. Grant,
William P. Vance, James Craig, Datus Ensign, William Dykes, John Dixon,
Samuel H. Marble, Artemus Johnson, Norton Jacobs, Addison Everett,
William Wordsworth, John W. Norton, Francis M. Pomroy, Lyman Curtis,
Horace M. Frink, Erastus Snow, Hans C. Hanson, William C. A.
Smoot, Barnabas L. Adams, Rodney Badger, Charles Burk, Alexander
P. Chesley, Appleton M. Harmon, David Powell, Joseph Mathews, John
Wheeler, Gillrid Summe, Mathew Ivory, Edson Whipple, Conrad Klineman,
Joseph Rooker, Nathaniel Fairbanks, Ozro Eastman, Andrew S. Gibbons,
William A. King, Thomas Tanner, Hosea Cushing, and John H. Tippets.

The names of the gun detachment are as follows:

Thomas Tanner, Captain; Stephen H. Goddard, Seeley Owens, Thomas
Woolsey, John G. Luce, Horace Thornton, Charles D. Barnam, Sylvester H.
Earl, George Scholes and Rufus Allen.

At twenty minutes after ten o'clock started again, the wind blowing
from the north tremendously strong, and clouds of dust arose from under
the wagon wheels. It has turned very cold and gloomy. We traveled
again over a level prairie some distance from the river and turned off
to camp under the bench soon after 5:00 p.m. having traveled about
eight miles, our course a little southwest. The wagons were formed in
an imperfect circle in such a manner as to have all the wagon mouths
from the wind, which took near an hour to form the encampment. We are
about a mile from water and a mile and a half from timber, with very
little grass for our teams. It is now so cold that every man wants his
overcoat on and a buffalo robe over it. We have had no accident and the
brethren feel well, some are wrestling to keep themselves warm. Some
have had the good luck to bring a little wood with them but it seems
as if many will have a cold supper. And some perhaps little or nothing
as they have no bread cooked. Eight p.m., the camp have found a good
substitute for wood in the dried buffalo dung which lies on the ground
here in great plenty, and makes a good fire when properly managed.
Brother Kimball invented a new way of building a fire to cook on and
which is well adapted to the use of this kind of fuel. He dug a hole
in the ground about 8 inches deep, 15 inches long and 8 inches wide.
Then at each end of this hole he dug another about the same dimensions
as the first leaving about 3 inches of earth standing between the
middle and two end holes. At the end of these partitions he made a
hole through about 3 inches in diameter to serve as a draught. In the
bottom of the middle hole the fire and fuel was placed, and across the
top two wagon hammers to set the pots and pans on, so that the fire
could have free circulation underneath. By this method much cooking
was done with very little fuel. To save the trouble of carrying water
so far a well was dug in a short time about 4 feet deep and good water
obtained. After supper I went and gathered some dried buffalo dung
(politely called buffalo chips) to cook with in the morning. Brother
Hanson played some on his violin and some of the brethren danced to
warm themselves. I went to bed early to get warm but having only one
quilt for covering, I suffered much with cold. Brother Kimball rode
ahead again on horseback and suffered some from cold.

May 1847

Saturday, May 1

The morning very cold indeed. Inasmuch as there is little grass for the
cattle, the camp started out at 5:40 and traveled till a quarter after
eight, six miles before breakfast. Soon after we started this morning
three buffalo were seen grazing on the bluff about six miles distance.
I could see them very plain with my glass. O. P. Rockwell, Thomas
Brown and Luke Johnson started on horseback to try to kill some. Soon
after they went, another herd of buffalo were seen to the northwest at
the foot of the bluffs about eight miles off. I counted with my glass,
72, and Orson Pratt counted 74. Three of the brethren went on their
horses after the latter herd. I watched the movement with the glass
and saw that sometime before the brethren got to them, the buffalo
fled and were soon after out of sight. We stopped for breakfast close
to Grand Island and at 10:15 proceeded again. After traveling four
miles we arrived at a small lake on our right at twelve o'clock which
evidently connects with the river in high water. A little previous to
this time the hunters returned and reported that Luke Johnson shot at
one and dropped him on his knees, but he got up again and ran after the
herd. They did not get any, but saw more farther west and went to give
chase to the latter herd. When they got near them, they turned down
under the bluffs and joined the herd chased by the last hunting party.
Luke lost his cap and could not find it again. Brother Higbee said he
could have shot one, but Woolsey told him to hold on and pick out a
good one. They being pretty near, selected a cow and designed both to
shoot at her, but while they were making their plans the herd started
and they missed their chance. About the time the hunters returned,
another still larger herd was discovered still farther west, also at
the foot of the bluffs. The President stopped near the above mentioned
lake and selected eleven men to go and give chase to the last seen
herd and he gave them their instructions. Although they were at least
eight miles from us, I distinctly counted 101 with my glass and amongst
them many calves. This being the first day buffalo has been seen on
our journey and in fact the first ever seen by any except about five
or six of the brethren, it excited considerable interest and pleasure
in the breasts of the brethren, and as may be guessed, the teams moved
slowly and frequently stopped to watch their movement. When the hunters
were within a mile or two from the herd, two of the dogs gave chase
to an antelope, which made directly towards the buffalo. One of the
dogs chased it till it went into the midst of the herd and when the
buffalo saw the dog, they commenced to canter into a closer huddle.
The dog, however, evidently frightened with their savage appearance,
stopped and retraced his steps. About this time Elder Kimball seemed to
get inspired with the idea of chasing the buffalo and he immediately
called for Egan's fifteen shooter and started with it on full gallop.
After the dog returned the buffalo did not move much from the place
and the hunters moved gently along till they got pretty near them, at
which time Heber joined, just as the herd discovered them and commenced
galloping off. The brethren's feelings who were left with the wagons
were now strung up to the highest pitch, a feeling of exciting interest
appeared to prevail throughout the camp, they having heard and read
so much of the mad ferocity of the buffalo when hotly pursued, and
knowing that all the hunters were inexperienced in regard to hunting
the wild buffalo. While they felt for the safety of the hunters, they
still desired to see as much of the chase as the distance would allow,
and were wishful that the chase might be successful as a number have
no meat and a piece of fresh meat would taste good to all men and save
our bread stuff, and the desire to taste the much famed buffalo meat
created a longing desire to see some of the herd fall. Soon as the herd
commenced galloping off, the hunters followed in pursuit at full gallop
and soon closed in with them. At this time I got my glass and rested
it on Brother Aaron Farr's shoulder, determined to see as much of the
chase as possible. I soon discovered O. P. Rockwell ride into
the midst of the herd which then appeared to number over 200, others
having come in sight when the herd commenced to run. Porter was soon
enveloped in the cloud of dust caused by the heavy tramp of the buffalo
on the dry sandy ground, but in a very short time the herd began to
separate and scatter in every direction, a small party coming down
the bluff again and some running west under the bluffs, others going
over. The hunters closed in on the first party and commenced their
fire, especially at one cow which they finally succeeded in separating
from all the rest, and determined to keep to her until they killed
her, except Porter, who as soon as he had wounded her, left her with
the hunters and pursued some of the rest. The cow was now in close
quarters and after she had been shot through two or three times, Elder
Kimball rode close to her with his fifteen shooter and fired over his
horse's head, she dropped helpless and was soon dispatched. At the
report of the gun which was very heavy loaded, Elder Kimball's horse
sprang and flew down the bluff like lightning and he having let go the
lines to shoot, her sudden motion overbalanced him and his situation
was precarious to the extreme. The other hunters saw his situation and
trembled for his safety but could render him no assistance. However,
being a good horseman, he maintained his position in the saddle and
soon succeeded in gaining the lines and by a vigorous effort succeeded
after some time in reining in his horse and returned to the rest
unharmed and without accident. All this movement passed about as quick
as thought, and as soon as they saw the cow dead and all right they
again followed in pursuit of the remaining buffalo. About this time
three of the herd separated from the rest and came in a direction
towards the camp on a gallop. President Young seeing this, ordered a
halt, and the wagons to get close together lest the buffalo should,
in their fury and excitement, venture to go between the wagons and do
much mischief. However, they were discovered by some of the hunters
nearer the camp and some foot men who gave chase to them changed their
course when within about a mile from the camp. At this time I had a
very good view of their shape, color and appearance when running which
I shall endeavor to describe hereafter. Elder Kimball arrived in time
to aid in the chase of these three which lasted some time. The hunters
made choice of a large and very furious bull, and worked with him
some time, shooting him through several times but all this did not
seem to impede his progress. O. P. Rockwell said he had heard it
said that a buffalo could not be hurt with a ball shot at his head.
Having a fair chance with this one, he determined to satisfy himself,
and (previous to his being wounded) gaining a little in advance came
right in front within about a rod of him and discharged his rifle
pistol which struck the center of his head, but with no other effect
than to make it smoke a little, some dust fly and the raving animal
shake savagely. The brethren, John S. Higbee and John Pack, soon after
succeeded in dropping him and laid him dead at their feet, John Pack
being the one that dropped him. During all this, other scenes were
passing of equal interest. One of the calves was discovered within a
few rods of the wagons, a shot fired at it and it was soon caught by
the dogs, killed and put into a feed box. Porter chased another calf
to within a mile of the camp previous to his chasing the bull. Some
of the footmen surrounded and dispatched it, and soon after brought
and put it in one of the wagons. Other brethren were still away at the
bluffs, but we had no certainty of their success until Elder Kimball,
John Pack, and several others came up to the camp after dispatching
the bull and reported two other cows killed and three calves. This
was a little before 5:00 p.m. When it was ascertained for a certainty
that one was killed, the revenue cutter was unloaded and sent to fetch
it to camp. It was reported that two other cows and three calves were
killed. When Elder Kimball and others came up to the camp, President
Young requested some of the brethren to unload their wagons and go and
fetch the others reported to be killed, while the wagons would strike
towards the river and camp for the night. The chase lasted from soon
after 1:00 until 4:00 p.m. Soon four wagons were unloaded, the brethren
having their loads on the ground in care of a guard, and were ready
to start out. Having a great desire to see a buffalo in his natural
state, my feet being very sore, and the distance to the bluffs being
over three miles, I got into Brother Aaron Farr's wagon, he being one
who unloaded to fetch in the meat, and we started for the one shot down
by Elder Kimball, he and O. P. Rockwell following on horseback.
On our route, we met Luke Johnson and two other hunters returning.
Luke had a calf tied on his horse, himself on foot. When we arrived at
the cow, we found that three of the brethren had come on foot and had
already got the hide off, except the head. She was soon cut in two, put
in the wagon with the rest of the meat, hide and head, and we started
for the next cow which was about three quarters of a mile distant. This
cow would probably weigh on foot, about 700 pounds. She was not very
fat, but the meat looked nice and clean. When we arrived at the next
cow, we found several of the brethren at work with her, they had got
her hide off and soon had her in the wagon. We then proceeded to camp
and got in soon after sundown. The meat was unloaded in the semi-circle
opposite the President's wagon and placed on the hide which was spread
on the ground for the purpose of keeping it clean. The brethren's
faces beamed with joy to see the meat begin to come into camp, and
with some astonishment to view the size and ferocious appearance of
the head, which still had the hide on. Soon after the other wagons
came in and each deposited its load in the same place. Joseph Mathews
came in about the same time and reported that he had killed another
calf after chasing it three miles, making the total number killed in
the first day's buffalo hunt by the Camp of the Latter-day Saints,
already reported as follows: one bull, three cows and six calves, a
circumstance far exceeding our expectations and best hopes, and all
without the slightest accident or loss to man or property, except Luke
Johnson's cap and a ramrod to a rifle. There is, however, one shade
of suspense caused by the intelligence that Joseph Hancock has not
returned to camp. He started out on foot when the three buffalo were
first discovered this morning and has not been seen or heard of for
sometime. Considerable fear is entertained for his safety from the fact
that he is lame, and it is evident, or at least considered so, that
there are Indians near because a large smoke as of prairie burning has
been seen all the afternoon within some six or eight miles to the west
and must have been set on fire by somebody and the probability is, it
is Indians, although none has been seen for several days. The meat was
cut up into quarters and distributed one quarter to each company of
ten, leaving some to be distributed in the morning, and in a short time
every fire was loaded with it, and the camp had a good feast on the
fruits of today's labors.

Soon after the hunters started out at noon we came to a long range
of dog towns and saw many of the little prairie dogs playing around
their holes. The extent of this dog town is yet unknown, for we have
traveled over, and parallel with it about five miles this afternoon,
and they seem to extend still farther west. In some places the town
is nearly two miles broad, in others not so much, and must contain
thousands of the little dogs. I could not get near enough to see their
form distinctly, for they are so quick into their holes when anything
approaches, you can only have a partial view of them. They appear to be
about as long as a common grey squirrel but more chunky, a larger body
and chubbed head. The tail is short, more resembling that of a dog,
their color light brown. Their bark resembles the chirp of an English
throstle, and something like the chirp of a squirrel. They appear to
live on grass as it is all eaten off close to the ground throughout
the extent of their dog town, and the ground looks naked and barren
as a desert. Several of the brethren shot at the dogs but failed in
killing any. We had a north wind this afternoon and cold weather, our
course being nearly west over a level prairie, not far distant from the
island. Since noon we traveled about eight miles, and the encampment
was formed at half past six o'clock near a small lake about a mile
above the head of Grand Island. The grass is not so good here as it
has been back, and but a poor chance for the cattle, etc., to fill
themselves.

The appearance of the wild buffalo at a distance is somewhat singular.
The color of the back and about half way down the sides is a light
brown, the rest is a very dark brown. The shoulder appears slightly
rounding and humped. When running, the large shaggy head hangs low
down, about half way in height between the ground and the top of
the shoulder. They canter like any ox or cow, but appear far more
cumbersome and heavy, especially about the fore parts, which look
larger than they really are on account of the long, thick matty hair.
They run tolerably fast, but a good horse will easily gain on them.
They will run a long time without diminishing their speed. Their meat
is very sweet and tender as veal.

Sunday, May 2

This morning is fine but cold. Ice about half an inch thick. Sometime
in the night a buffalo and calf came within a short distance of the
wagons. The guard discovered them and shot at the calf, wounding it
in the hind leg. They caught it alive and tied it up near the wagons
but concluded finally to kill and dress it. About six o'clock we
were gladdened to see Joseph Hancock come into camp with a piece of
buffalo meat. He reported that he killed a buffalo yesterday back on
the bluffs, and there being no one with him he concluded to stay by it
over night. He made a fire and scattered a little powder around his
buffalo to keep off the wolves. Some visited him during the night, but
were awed by the fire. After he had told his story and taken breakfast,
Brother Hancock started in company with four or five other brethren to
fetch in the meat on horseback, as no wagons could get over the bluffs
to it. They found that the wolves had devoured much of it, but the
balance they brought along with them. They also killed two antelope and
brought them into camp. The total number of buffalo now caught is five
large ones and seven calves. Edmund Ellsworth killed one of the prairie
dogs, and brought it to camp. It looks much like a squirrel, only the
body is thicker and the tail short and no bush on it. The day grew
pleasant till about noon, when it became cloudy and cold. President
Young, Kimball and others started out to look out a camp ground where
better feed can be obtained for our stock. They returned a little after
two and gave orders to go on a few miles. There have been a number of
buffalo seen in different directions, one grazing within three quarters
of a mile from camp, but orders were not to hunt or shoot today. At
three-fifteen the camp started and traveled two miles over dog towns
as yesterday. At a little after four p.m. we camped beside a long lake
of shoal, clear water near the banks of the Platte. This lake is about
three rods wide and connects with the river. The Platte appears about
two miles wide at this place but very shoal and muddy. There is no
timber but plenty of grass, mostly last year's growth. The weather is
more temperate and the wind ceased. President Young, Kimball and others
went on to look out a crossing place over this lake, etc. On their way,
they fell in with a buffalo cow and calf and chased them some to get
a view of them but not to kill. On their return they said we should
tarry here tomorrow and have some blacksmith work done and probably
hunt some. Half of the hide off the bull's face was brought into camp.
On examination I found the mark where Porter shot at his head. The ball
made a small hole, barely cutting through the outer surface or grain
of the hide which was near an inch thick. The hair near the top of the
head is about a foot long.

Monday, May 3

This morning cold and ice in the water pails. The hunters are going
out on foot. Tanner and Davenport are fixing their forges to do some
repairing, shoeing, etc. At about nine the hunters, twenty in number,
started out with two wagons which had been unloaded for the purpose.
At the same time, fifteen of the brethren on horseback started west
to examine the route, etc. At two-thirty the party who went to look
out the route returned and reported that Brother Empey had discovered
a large war party of Indians while he was chasing an antelope. The
Indians are in a hollow about twelve miles distance and about three
hundred in number, some on their horses and some standing beside them
holding the bridle. The company also saw nearly twenty scattered
Indians about four miles from here. When this report was made, orders
were given to dispatch a number of the brethren on horses, well armed
to warn the hunters and tell them to come to camp. In about half an
hour, twenty-three men started out on this mission. Before they reached
the bluffs which are about four miles from here, some of the hunters
were on their way to camp, having seen only one buffalo during the day.
In a little time all the hunters were notified and were on their way
back. They arrived about six o'clock, having got three antelope, and
the horsemen who went after them got two calves which were all brought
in and the day passed without accident. Some of the brethren saw some
objects at a distance, which, by their motions they were satisfied were
Indians. The day has been fine but cool and cloudy, with occasionally
a few drops of rain. A number of wagon tires have been set and other
blacksmithing, washing, drying meat, etc., done. The wind near south.
The cannon was unlimbered at night and prepared for action in case it
should be needed.

Tuesday, May 4

The morning fine but cool, wind about southwest. Two horses ran east as
much as six or eight miles and were pursued by the brethren and brought
back. William Smoot was thrown from a horse and his senses knocked out
of him by the fall. He soon recovered and appears to have sustained no
injury.

At seven-thirty the camp was called and received instructions from
President Young, especially in regard to leaving the wagons and
scattering off hunting without counsel. He strongly urged the brethren
not to do it any more and said if they did, some of them would be
caught by the Indians and if not killed would be severely abused. The
instructions and regulations given April 17th were read and enjoined
upon the camp to be observed more strictly. It was decided that the
cannon wagon should be unloaded, the box put on another wagon so
that the cannon can be always ready for action. An addition of ten
volunteers was made to the standing guard and ordered that all horses
and mules should be tied inside the circle at night, and the cattle
and cows outside within a few rods of the wagons. A guard to be placed
around the cattle when turned out to graze. It is thought best to
travel with the wagons four abreast and the cannon to go in the rear.

At nine o'clock the wagons commenced moving and passed over the lake
near its junction with the river, at which place it is about ten or
twelve feet wide.

After traveling about a half a mile the camp stopped some time, waiting
for some wagons behind. While stopping, three wagons were discovered on
the opposite bank of the river, considered to be traders going back to
Council Bluffs. The river is about two miles wide and no person here
acquainted with it, consequently no one attempted to go over, which
many desired. About eleven o'clock we proceeded, five wagons abreast
so as to be better prepared for defense should the Indians attack us.
After traveling about two miles, one of the men from the wagons on the
other side the river overtook us and we halted to see him. He said
there are only nine of them. They have been to Fort Laramie for furs
and are going to Council Bluffs. This is the sixteenth day since they
left the fort with ox teams. He says the road is good on the other
side and the river easily forded, being not more than knee deep in
the deepest place and a good bottom. He cheerfully agreed to carry
letters back for us but could not wait long. I wrote one to my family
and in about half an hour a pretty large mail was made up to send back
to Winter Quarters, and may the Lord grant that it may arrive safely.
Brother Johnson bought a buffalo robe of the man for about a pound and
a half of coffee, and another brother bought one for a pound of sugar
and a little pork. I feel my mind relieved by this unexpected privilege
of writing back to my dear family and hope they will have the pleasure
of perusing the contents.

At twenty minutes after one the bugle sounded for a march, and the
messenger is returning with the letters and a bag of provisions on his
shoulder which the brethren have given him for carrying the letters.
We traveled about four miles farther and at three-thirty, stopped to
let the teams feed on a small spot where the fire has not touched, the
rest having all been burned off within a few days. We have traveled
today only about six miles, having stopped much. The country is still
very level and nice traveling only for the dust. The wind south and our
course nearly west. When the trader went back over the river, Thomas
Woolsey, John Brown and John Pack accompanied him on horses to speak
with a person whom Brother Woolsey is acquainted with. They returned
soon after we stopped to feed and say that the river is very good to
cross, not being more than two feet deep in the deepest place, and the
bottom good. The horses broke through but very little. The traders
say furthermore, that if we continue on this side, we shall have to
cross the river twice where the water is much deeper and cannot be
crossed only in a ferry. There is a good traveled road also, which
would be an advantage we have not got on this side. During the time we
stopped to feed, a guard was placed around the cattle and horses to
keep them from straying far from the wagons. Then men were called out
and drilled with their loaded guns in the circle formed by the wagons.
Some objects are seen grazing about four miles west of us thought to be
buffalo. Thirteen in number. Some of the hunters are going out to give
them a chase, and try to kill some of them. At a quarter after five
o'clock, the camp was called together and Brother Brown reported what
the traders said about the route, etc., as above. The subject was then
talked over and when it was considered that we are making a road for
thousands of saints to follow, and they cannot ford the river when the
snow melts from the mountains, it was unanimously voted to keep on this
side as far as Fort Laramie at least. Soon after this we started on
again. Saw a lone buffalo but a short distance from us but it galloped
across the river. Saw also a number of antelope and some deer. About
seven o'clock we passed a spot where the Indians have camped and must
have been many of them. A while after sundown we arrived at a creek of
good water and camped for the night, having traveled about nine miles
today. The prairie level but all the grass burned off, except in small
patches. We have camped on a small spot which has escaped the fire.
Elder Kimball, who was one of the hunters who started out at four
o'clock, said the objects seen from camp were antelope, but he had seen
a herd of buffalo about a mile ahead of where we now are. He named this
creek, Buffalo creek.

Wednesday, May 5

The morning fine and very pleasant. Saw two small herds of buffalo a
few miles from camp. At seven-thirty continued our journey. I went
on foot about two miles and then stopped to count the horses, mules,
oxen, etc., and afterwards walked on again to the first wagons. Here
Elder Kimball offered me his horse to ride. I then went ahead with the
horsemen. We soon after came to a very bad slough and had to bear off
to the north to find a place to cross it. The prairie after we crossed
this slough about a mile wide from the river was very soft and it was
necessary to bear still farther to the north. The horses' feet cut
through the sod and the ground appeared wet under, although there has
been no rain for some time. At eleven-thirty we stopped to feed on a
small patch of unburnt grass, having come about nine miles, course
about west, with a very strong south wind. There were two buffalo
within about a half a mile from camp, grazing. Some of the brethren
went to view them, but the orders of the day are not to kill anything
which the men cannot carry to camp. There are no appearances of Indians
near except the prairie which is still burning ahead of us, supposed
to be set on fire by them. About one p.m. continued our journey and
traveled till three p.m., when some of the hunters came in, bringing a
live buffalo calf, also one they had killed. They reported that John
Brown, Jackson Redding and John S. Higbee, Luke Johnson had each killed
a calf, the one killed by Brother Higbee having previously been shot by
Amasa Lyman. Joseph Mathews killed a cow and Elder Kimball, O. P.
Rockwell and John S. Higbee chased the one brought in alive until a dog
seized it and Porter left his horse and caught it without shooting at
it and led it to camp. The revenue cutter was unloaded and sent after
the cow and calf left, they being about three miles off. We traveled on
about a half an hour and found the prairie all in a blaze. President
Young and Kimball thinking it unsafe to risk the wagons near the fire,
ordered the camp to go back a half a mile to an island where we can
have water for our teams and be secure from the fire. The prairie is
all burned bare and the black ashes fly bad, making the brethren look
more like Indians than white folks. There is some feed on the island,
and the cattle easily ford the stream to it. The calf is tied in the
circle. When a dog goes near it, it will attack the largest and they
flee from it, though not more than six or eight weeks old. About half
past six the revenue cutter arrived with the meat, which was fatter
than any we have had. They also brought in another calf which they
killed while out for the cow, making a total of one cow and six calves
brought into camp today. The meat was divided amongst the companies of
ten, each having either a calf or half a quarter of a cow.

Thursday, May 6

This morning at five-fifteen, President Young called to the camp and
proposed to go on to where we can find feed for the teams. The brethren
assented and he gave orders to start as quickly as possible. However,
some must feed their teams a little corn, some milk their cows, etc.,
and it took till near six-thirty to get started. During the night the
Lord sent a light shower of rain which has put the fire out except in
one or two places and made it perfectly safe traveling. We have had a
strong southeast wind through the night but the morning is calm and
pleasant. We traveled about two miles and stopped on the unburned grass
to feed at a quarter to seven. Several antelope were surrounded by
the brethren and some shot at them, killing one. The rest made their
escape. We can see several large herds of buffalo within about two
miles of the camp and many calves amongst them. President Young and
Kimball rode ahead to find a place to stop for feed. The ground is
hard and good traveling. At a quarter to nine, proceeded on, President
Young and Kimball going ahead to point out the road. Our course about
northwest, the wind strong from west. We traveled near the river. Saw
thirteen elk together, also many antelope and numerous herds of buffalo
on both sides of the river. Jackson Redding shot an antelope which Luke
Johnson chased near the wagons.

A young buffalo calf followed Luke to camp, but the President advised
him to leave it as it is only a few days old. We stopped near the river
at a quarter to twelve, having traveled about six miles. We find a
little more grass here, but the numerous herds of buffalo keep it eaten
off close to the ground nearly all the way we have traveled today. The
President gave orders that no more game should be killed until further
orders. It appears we have got as much meat in camp as can be taken
care of. While we were stopping for noon, some of the cows moved off
towards a large buffalo herd, and when President Young and Kimball
started ahead after dinner they discovered the cows near the buffalo.
Brother Woolsey went to turn them back, but he had to run his mule
some distance before he could prevent the cows from mingling with the
buffalo. They brought the cows back to the wagons and then proceeded
ahead again. One part of the horsemen's business today has been to
drive the buffalo out of our track, judging it unsafe to risk them
between the wagons and the river. The camp proceeded on at one-thirty
and in about two miles distance found a lake of clear water. Here we
discovered the horsemen coming back, and found that the President had
lost his large spy glass, while chasing the cows from the buffalo herd,
a second time. He did not find it. We traveled slowly this afternoon,
some of the horses and oxen having given out in consequence of lack
of feed to sustain them. We traveled till six-thirty and camped near
some islands in the river, having traveled about seven miles this
afternoon and fifteen through the day, our course a little west of
northwest. Wind about west. Some think we have traveled eighteen, some
twenty and some even twenty-five miles today, but from the number of
times we stopped and the slowness with which the teams moved, I feel
satisfied that fifteen miles is plenty. About three quarters of a mile
back we saw a buffalo cow which appears to be sick. She fought the dogs
some time and then lay down, and the brethren went close to her, some
venturing to feel and handle her. I was within six or eight feet of her
and had a good view, as much as I wanted. She has lost all her hair
and looks very poor and weak. The President ordered that the brethren
leave her and not disturb her and she was left lying down, but it is
doubtful the wolves will kill and eat her before morning. When the
brethren went back to hunt the spy glass they found that the wolves
had killed the calf and nearly eaten it up. What they had not eaten,
they carried off with them. We have never been out of sight of herds of
buffalo today, and from where we are camped, I am satisfied we can see
over five thousand with the glass. The largest herd we have yet seen is
still ahead of us. The prairie looks black with them, both on this and
the other side of the river. Some think we have passed fifty, and some
even a hundred thousand during the day, or have seen them. It is truly
a sight wonderful to behold, and can scarcely be credited by those who
have not actually seen them.

Friday, May 7

This morning the wind northwest and almost as cold as winter. The
buffalo vastly numerous all around. About eight a.m. the camp was
called together and measures taken to raise more teams to put to the
canyon as some of the horses and even cattle have given out. The
President chastised Elder Snow for not attending to the cows yesterday
causing the President to lose his spy glass, it being Brother Snow's
turn to drive the cows according to his own voluntary agreement. At a
little before eleven o'clock, Porter Rockwell, Thomas Brown and Joseph
Mathews started back to hunt the spy glass, and soon after they left,
the camp proceeded onward. The day was cloudy and very cold. Our course
about northwest. We traveled about seven miles and camped at two-thirty
near several small islands, on the banks of the river. About four p.m.,
Porter and the others returned, having found the spy glass, which was
a source of joy to all the brethren. At six-thirty the companies were
called out to drill. I have been very sick all day with a complaint and
have suffered much.

Saturday, May 8

Morning cold but fine. Started out at nine o'clock and traveled till
one p.m., distance seven and a half miles, course a little west
of northwest. The prairie on both sides of the river is literally
black with buffalo, and to try to say as to what number we have seen
this morning would be folly. I should imagine that at a moderate
calculation, we have seen over fifty thousand. They are more tame than
they have been, and will stand till the wagons come within two hundred
yards of them. Porter has shot one about two years old, the meat looks
nice. There is no difficulty in getting meat enough. It is with some
difficulty that the horsemen can drive them away from the track as
fast as the wagons come up. It is very warm today, and no wind. I have
counted the revolutions of a wagon wheel to tell the exact distance
we have traveled. The reason why I have taken this method which is
somewhat tedious, is because there is generally a difference of two and
sometimes four miles in a day's travel between my estimation and that
of some others, and they have all thought I underrated it. This morning
I determined to take pains to know for a certainty how far we travel
today. Accordingly I measured the circumference of the nigh hind wheel
of one of Brother Kimball's wagons being the one I sleep in, in charge
of Philo Johnson. I found the wheel 14 feet 8 inches in circumference,
not varying one eighth of an inch. I then calculated how many
revolutions it would require for one mile and found it precisely 360
not varying one fraction which somewhat astonished me. I have counted
the whole revolutions during the day's travel and I find it to be a
little over eleven and a quarter miles, twenty revolutions over. The
overplus I shall add to the next day's travel. According to my previous
calculations we were two hundred eighty-five miles from Winter Quarters
this morning before we started. After traveling ten miles I placed a
small cedar post in the ground with these words written on it with
a pencil. "From Winter Quarters, two hundred ninety-five miles, May
8, '47. Camp all well. Wm. Clayton." Some have past the day's travel
at thirteen and some fourteen miles, which serves to convince more
strongly that the distances are overrated. I have repeatedly suggested
a plan of fixing machinery to a wagon wheel to tell the exact distance
we travel in a day, and many begin to be sanguine for carrying it into
effect, and I hope it will be done. Our course this afternoon has been
northwest, no wind and the prairie as bare as a poor English pasture,
the grass being eaten off by uncountable herds of buffalo. No pen nor
tongue can give an idea of the multitude now in sight continually, and
it appears difficult to keep them away from the wagons. Two calves
have been killed and brought to camp and multitudes would be killed
if the President did not prohibit the brethren from killing them only
as we need the meat. Truly, the Lord's cattle upon the thousand hills
are numerous. We are now camped on the banks of the river within a
quarter of a mile from where the range of bluffs, which have appeared
exceedingly ragged all day, strike the river, and when we move again we
have got to cross over them. President Young and Kimball have been back
on the bluffs on foot some distance and report that as far as they can
see the grass is eaten perfectly bare and the prospect for feed for our
teams is poor indeed. There are several buffalo lying dead around here,
whether dead from old age or by the hands of hunters or of starvation,
it is unknown. Many of the brethren have to cook their victuals on dry
buffalo dung, there being no wood near.

Sunday, May 9

The morning very cold with wind southeast. At seven-fifty we proceeded
on three and a half miles, going a little around some of the bluffs
until we turned down on a low bottom and very sandy. We have camped
near some islands and can get wood and water, but poor feed for the
teams. We arrived here at nine-fifty and shall stay till morning.
Soon as the camp was formed, I went about three quarters of a mile
below to the river and washed my socks, towel and handkerchief as well
as I could in cold water without soap. I then stripped my clothing
off and washed from head to foot, which has made me feel much more
comfortable for I was covered with dust. After washing and putting on
clean clothing I sat down on the banks of the river and gave way to a
long train of solemn reflections respecting many things, especially in
regard to my family and their welfare for time and eternity. I shall
not write my thoughts here, inasmuch as I expect this journal will have
to pass through other hands besides my own or that of my family but if
I can carry my plans into operation, they will be written in a manner
that my family will each get their portion, whether before my death or
after, it matters not.

The day is very warm and the wind has moved to the west. According to
my calculations, we are now 300 miles from Winter Quarters, lacking a
few rods. I got a small board and wrote on it: "From Winter Quarters
three hundred miles, May 9, 1847. Pioneer Camp all well. Distance
according to the reckoning of Wm. Clayton." This was nailed on a post
and in the evening I went and set it up about three hundred yards from
here on a bend of the river. Spent the afternoon reading and writing
in Elder Kimball's journal. At three p.m. a meeting was called and the
camp addressed by several. President Young took tea with Elder Kimball,
and afterwards they started out together with one or two others to
look at the country ahead of us. They went a few miles and found a
small stream which we shall have to cross. Here they saw multitudes of
buffalo coming to water. Porter and Phineas Young went within six or
eight rods of them to try to get one, but in the whole herd, they could
not find one fit to kill. They are very poor, for there is no feed for
them, and in fact they are so numerous that they eat the grass as fast
as it springs. There are, however, some good cottonwood groves and
good water at the stream. After sundown the wind blew strong from the
northwest and the evening was cold and chilly.

Monday, May 10

The morning fine but cool. The wind nearly ceased. Last night I
dreamed that I was in company with the camp which was stopping beside
a considerable river of deep water. Our horses and cattle were tied
to stakes all around the camp to the distance of a quarter of a mile,
some good timber thinly scattered around. I thought President Young,
Kimball and several others started up the river in a flat boat without
stating their object, leaving the brethren to guard the camp, cattle,
etc. in their absence. When they had been gone sometime I thought a
large herd of buffalo came on full gallop right amongst our horses and
cattle, causing them to break their ropes and fly in every direction.
The brethren seemed thunderstruck and did not know what to do. Seeing a
small skiff in the river, I sprang into it, and a paddle lying in it,
I commenced rowing in pursuit of the President. It seemed as though I
literally flew through the water passing everything on the way like a
railway carriage. In a few minutes I overtook the brethren in the flat
boat, took the skiff and threw it on shore and to my astonishment I
saw that the skiff was made only of barks and cracked all over, and
it seemed impossible to put it in the water without sinking it. The
paddle with which I had rowed proved to be a very large feather and I
had another feather in my left hand with which I steered the skiff.
When I got into the flat boat, I made known what had passed in the
camp, but the brethren seemed no ways alarmed. I awoke and behold, it
was all a dream. Dr. Richards is going to deposit a letter in a stick
of wood prepared for the purpose near this place in such a manner that
the next company will discover it. He fixed it on a long pole and being
assisted by President Young and others raised it and fixed it firm in
the ground. His distance from Winter Quarters three hundred and sixteen
miles. At nine five the camp proceeded onward. After traveling two
miles we crossed a small creek which Elder Kimball named Skunk creek,
easily forded, though the ground was soft on the west side. About this
time the brethren at the head of the camp discovered a strange horse
alone on the prairie. Porter and Thomas Brown gave chase to try to
catch it. Brother John Brown states that when the Mississippi company
passed on the other side last season, one of the brethren lost a mare
and two colts, and this is supposed to be the oldest of the two. When
Brother Woolsey and Tippets came through from the battalion last winter
they saw the same horse near here. We traveled till twelve five and
finding a little better feed stopped for dinner having traveled a few
rods over six miles. The last two miles was over very soft prairie and
although the last year's grass has not been burned, the wheels cut
through the sod frequently. At the creek four miles back, some of the
brethren shot a buffalo which was brought into camp in the revenue
cutter. The meat is said to be good and the fattest we have had. At
two we continued our journey. About the same time Porter and Brown
returned having failed to catch the horse. After traveling about half
a mile we crossed a very bad slough, and beyond that for a mile the
ground was wet and soft. The teams began to give out, and at half past
four o'clock, the President ordered the wagons to strike for the timber
which was a little out of our course, but necessary to favor the teams
and obtain wood and water. We arrived near the timber and camped at
four fifty, having traveled since my last guide post a little over
nine and three-fourths miles, the last two miles the ground being dry
and good traveling. Some of the hunters killed a deer and we had some
venison for supper. Our course a little north of west. Light wind from
northwest. The day warm and pleasant. We have a little better feed for
cattle, and on the island plenty of brouse for horses, better timber
than we have had for some time past. It appears plain that vast herds
of buffalo have wintered here, but have mostly left and gone eastward
sometime ago, and we have the full growth of this year's grass which
is small indeed. The grass evidently springs later the farther west we
travel, and nature seems to have taught the wild cattle this lesson,
hence their eastward progress. There are some scattering herds of
buffalo around, but not nearly so numerous as they were some thirty
miles back. The face of the country here is indeed beautiful, the soil
rich on the bottoms, the ragged bluffs on each side of the river have
a splendid appearance, and at about ten miles distance, west of where
we now are, they seem to circle around until they form a junction. It
appears evident also, that we are above the junction of the north and
south forks of the Platte, the north fork running nearly northwest and
the south fork southwest. Brother Woolsey says these are the forks
in reality, but are connected some miles higher up by a slough, and
consequently the land between is set down by travelers as the main land
rather than as an island.

Tuesday, May 11

The morning cold. Wind east; camp well. At 7:00 a.m. went with a number
of the brethren who were going to dig some wolves out of a hole about a
quarter of a mile from camp. They dug out four and brought them alive
to camp. They are probably six or eight weeks old and about the size
of an English hare, very vicious. At half past nine the camp moved
onward over a very nice level, dry prairie for five miles. Amongst the
timber on the island could be seen many small cedar trees. At the end
of five miles, we had to pass over a small ridge of low, sandy bluffs,
which extended to the river. After passing nearly over the bluffs we
stopped half an hour to water the teams and eat a little dinner, then
proceeded on three miles farther and passed over a creek of clear
water, but this could not be very good in consequence of so many dead
buffalo lying in it. We proceeded on half a mile, and finding tolerably
good feed, stopped for the night, having traveled eight and half miles
today. Weather fine, wind south and southeast; course a little west
or northwest. We have seen few buffalo today, but there are signs
of thousands having wintered in the neighborhood. The country looks
beautiful, soil rich, only lacking timber. After the camp was formed,
it being half a mile to water, the brethren dug two wells, and about
four feet deep found plenty of good water. One of the wells is reported
to run a pail full a minute. Brother Appleton Harmon is working at the
machinery for the wagon to tell the distance we travel and expects
to have it in operation tomorrow, which will save me the trouble of
counting, as I have done, during the last four days. Took supper on
some duck presented to Elder Kimball by George Billings.

Wednesday, May 12

Morning cool, weather fine. Brother Appleton Harmon has completed the
machinery on the wagon so far that I shall only have to count the
number of miles, instead of the revolution of the wagon wheel. We
started at 9:10, the first mile pretty soft, the rest tolerably hard
and very good traveling. We have passed over vast beds of salt, or
rather dust with a salt taste. It looks something like dirty flour.
Traveled eight miles in four hours and two minutes, and stopped at
12:48 to feed, nearly opposite two small islands. The feed tolerably
good. Our course northwest. Considerable strong wind from southeast
covering everything in the wagons with dust and sand. No timber on the
bank of the river and but little on the islands. The hunters report
that they have seen many dead buffalo between here and the bluff with
the hides off and tongues taken out, a strong proof that Indians have
been here very recently, as the flesh looks fresh and lately killed.
The range of bluffs on each side the river extend much farther apart,
and near the foot of the south range can be seen timber scattering
along, which is an evidence that the south fork ranges in that
direction, although some are sanguine that we have not yet arrived at
the junction.

At half past three we moved on again and traveled four miles, camped
at a quarter to six near a bunch of small islands, and a kind of bayou
projecting from the river. Our course this afternoon a little south of
west, having come around a considerable bend in the river. The land
good and good traveling. Wind southeast. Several of the brethren caught
a number of small fish in the bayou or lake. The feed here is rather
scanty. Heavy clouds are rising in the west and northwest, and a fair
prospect for some rain which is much needed. It is now certain that we
are about fourteen and a half miles above the junction of the north and
south forks of the Platte, and although we have to make a new road all
the way, we find no obstacles so far. Brother Woodruff reports that he
has been beyond the bluffs north of the camp and saw upwards of 200
wickeups where the Indians have camped very recently.

He found a cured buffalo skin and some pieces of other skins also. The
hunters killed a two year old buffalo and brought it to camp. Brother
Orson Pratt reports that when we were five and a half miles back, we
were in latitude 41° 9' 44".

Thursday, May 13

This morning cold and cloudy, cold enough for overcoats and buffalo
robes. The buffalo which was killed yesterday was cut up and divided
this morning amongst the companies of tens. Some feelings are manifest
this morning between Brothers Thomas Tanner and Aaron Farr on account
of the former taking the latter prisoner and putting him under a
guard part of the night. Perhaps Aaron was a little out of order in
conversing loud after the horn blew for prayers, but I think Brother
Tanner's angry spirit more blameable. At 9:00 we moved onward nearly
a west course four miles and at 11:00 stopped to feed teams at a spot
which is a little better than we generally have. The wind strong from
north and northeast.

At half past twelve we proceeded on again and traveled till four
o'clock, distance six and three quarters miles. At this distance we
arrived at a stream about six rods wide which appears to come from
the northeast, the water in appearance like the Platte, the bottom of
the river quick sand. Water in the middle about two feet deep; at the
sides quite shoal. It appears that travelers have never discovered this
stream for it is not noticed in any works that we have seen. We crossed
it without difficulty and camped on its banks. The weather cloudy and
very cold, with a strong north wind. Presidents Young and Kimball rode
ahead as usual to look out the road. They report that the bluffs half a
mile west come clear to the river and are considerably high. They found
several ranges of them and finally found a valley running between some
of the ranges through which we can pass by going about a mile around
from our course. This stream according to measurement, twenty-five and
one quarter miles above the junction of the two forks and 341 miles
from Winter Quarters, by estimation. President Young named it the North
Bluff Fork. A while before we arrived here four of the brethren went to
chase a few buffalo which were lying down at the foot of the bluffs,
but they did not get any. Presidents Young and Kimball saw a very large
rattlesnake near the river. Brother Kimball says the largest he ever
saw in his life. I saw a small green snake today, very pretty, the back
light green and the belly a pale yellow. Presidents Young and Kimball
suffered severely with cold while riding over the bluffs to look for a
road. Had to use buffalo dung for cooking, there being no timber.

Friday, May 14

The morning cloudy and very cold. In the west could occasionally be
seen streaks of lightning and distant thunder heard. At 8:00 a.m. the
dark clouds having approached nearer, it commenced raining pretty
hard, accompanied by lightning and thunder. The President ordered the
horses got up just before the rain commenced; and after the storm
ceased, we started onward at a quarter past ten. After traveling about
a mile we passed among and around the high bluffs, our course lying
nearly in a north direction for some time, then turning south and
on again approaching the river, nearly southeast. When within about
three quarters of a mile from the river, we stopped to feed at twenty
minutes to two, having traveled six and a quarter miles. We have got
on the level bottom again and are probably not more than three miles
in a direct line from where we started this morning. Presidents Young
and Kimball went forward to point out the route, which is very good to
travel, although considerably uneven. Brother Higbee killed an antelope
and wounded another which made its escape while he was loading his
rifle. We have better feed here than we have had for some time. We had
a little more rain just as we came to a halt. We have not had much wind
this morning but it is now increasing from the north. It is somewhat
warmer than this morning. The atmosphere cloudy and looks as if we
might have more rain. The land between the two forks for about 25 miles
is perfectly flat and very level without timber.

The bluffs there rise suddenly, apparently in a line from fork to
fork. There are many buffalo back in the valleys between the bluffs,
and although there is no sign of the prairie having been burned, it
is evident the buffalo have kept it eaten clean off, but have moved
back and east, probably since the Indians have been hunting them. Some
of the brethren have discovered fresh tracks where the Indians have
gone up this north stream, evidently very lately. But we are satisfied
the Lord hears the prayers of his servants and sends them out of the
way before we come up to them. At three o'clock we proceeded on our
journey, keeping above the lower prairie, which appeared soft and
swampy. Our road was very uneven. We went two and a half miles and
at half past four stopped to learn the report of those gone ahead to
look out the road. There is another high range of bluffs about half
a mile west of us, extending to the river. Elder Kimball went across
the several ranges of bluffs to the west side, and hunted for a road
in various directions, but there did not appear to be any possibility
of finding a road between the bluffs, without going many miles around.
President Young and he concluded it would be best to camp where the
wagons are and in the morning cross right over the bluffs by doubling
teams. Accordingly the encampment was formed about five-thirty, the
train having traveled eight and three quarters miles today. Our course
this afternoon nearly west, wind southeast. The feed for our teams
grows much better, and on one of these high sandy bluffs I saw a large
bed of flowers, not unlike the violet, and very rich. The sand on the
bluffs in some places looks like large drifts of snow, and in other
places seems to have deep chasms as if wasted by heavy rains. The
atmosphere is still cloudy but not so cold as it has been. The hunters
have killed two buffalo, three antelope and one badger during the day,
which will be very acceptable. It was dark when the hunters returned to
give the information. The revenue cutter was sent after the meat which
was reported to be a mile and a half distant. It was late when they
returned. There was an alarm made by the guard in the night supposing
the Indians were near. The camp were aroused to secure their horses,
but we had no further trouble about them.

I discovered that Brother Appleton Harmon is trying to have it
understood that he invented the machinery to tell the distance we
travel, which makes me think less of him than I formerly did. He is not
the inventor of it by a long way, but he has made the machinery, after
being told how to do it. What little souls work.

Saturday, May 15

This morning is very cloudy and very cold, more like a January morning
than a May morning. The wind blows strong from the northeast. The
brethren who killed the buffalo did not bring it to camp last night,
but put it in the boat and left it till morning. About half past seven
they brought it in and divided it to the captains of ten. At eight
o'clock it commenced raining again but abated a little before nine. At
nine o'clock we commenced moving and after traveling three-quarters of
a mile began to ascend the sandy bluffs. It commenced raining again and
it looks like rain for all day. It is very cold, the wind continues
strong. The road was much of a zig zag over the bluffs, but only about
a mile before we descended to the bottom. We traveled a piece farther
and at half past ten o'clock it was considered best to turn out the
teams until it ceases raining, after traveling two and a quarter miles.
We found it unnecessary to double teams while crossing the bluffs and
we got over without difficulty, much better than we had anticipated.
About noon it again ceased raining and the signal was given to harness
up teams. At half past twelve we proceeded and traveled till a quarter
to three, distance four and a half miles, then formed the encampment
in a circle about a quarter of a mile from the river. The road has
been level but soft and wet, however not bad traveling. The bluffs are
about half a mile to the north and several herds of buffalo grazing on
them. Some of the hunters are gone to try and get some meat. The wind
still keeps up, and is cold, damp and uncomfortable. The feed appears
better here than we have had for some days, and the cattle soon fill
themselves which is a comfort and blessing to the camp. Some of the
brethren have been lucky enough to pick up a few sticks and dead wood
but our chief dependence for fuel is dry buffalo dung which abounds
everywhere, but the rain has injured it some for burning. About two
miles back we passed a place where the Indians have lately camped
during their hunt. It is plain that whole families are amongst their
number as the foot prints and moccasins of children have several times
been seen. They evidently make use of the buffalo dung for fuel, and
for seats, they dig up sods and lay them in a circle around their
fire which is in the center. We have passed a number of these little
temporary camping spots this afternoon. The reason why we did not
travel farther was that Elder Kimball being gone ahead to look out the
road, etc., he found as he came near the next bluffs that the feed is
all eaten off by the numerous herds of buffalo and found also, that we
shall have to travel over the bluffs and they appear wide and would be
impossible for the teams to get over them tonight, hence the necessity
of stopping here where we have good feed. The soil on this prairie
looks good and rich but there is no timber. In fact there is none in
sight, except a small grove on the other side the river about two miles
west of the camp. Late at night Porter Rockwell came in and reported