a dance [being carried on] by heathen Indians and fugitive Christians.

_21st day._ Before dawn we assaulted a village on this side of the river
and only one person escaped, a San José Christian named Bernardo. He,
having gone to sleep at a distance from the village, jumped into the
water and swam in great haste to warn those at the dance. For this
reason we immediately fell upon the other village, which was on the
opposite side of the river, and took it entire. The prisoners in all
included 15 San José Christians, 18 heathen men, and 51 heathen women.
The latter were released by the lieutenant and went away very happy.[12]

The remainder of the day we rested here and passed the time well with
fresh salmon and wild grapes. Two of the Christian prisoners escaped, on
the pretext of having to attend to a necessity, and also because of the
negligence or overconfidence of the sentinel. All this place and its
surroundings are inundated during the high water of the rivers, which
is in the summer. At that time the wild Indians live on a few small
elevations.[13] For this reason there is no way to establish a mission
here.

_22nd day._ This morning Corporal Pico, with seven soldiers and the
neophytes, went with the Christian and heathen prisoners toward San
José. The rest of us, with a heathen Indian called Guanats, went up
the river, southeasterly through oak groves, willow thickets, ponds,
and lands flooded during the freshets. We also met four wild Indians
gathering seeds, who were extremely glad to meet honest people. After
having gone about two and one-half leagues we stopped to eat between two
ponds, in front of the [village of] the Jusmites[14] Indians. In the
afternoon, having gone another two and one-half leagues we spent the
night near the [village of] the Tugites Indians. All the country seen
thus far has wood, with water in the river and lakes, but the land is
low, flooded, and without stone.

_23rd day._ In the morning we resumed our march in the same direction,
always upstream with the intention of crossing it. On the way, Indians
whom we knew and who were friendly, from the village of Cuyens, came out
to meet us, bearing as a gift three very big, red, salmon. They also
have accompanied us to the village of Mayem, where we halted to eat,
having gone four leagues since early morning. Having rewarded well our
Indian benefactors and companions, we also gave something to those of
Mayem. The latter people have just approached us with much fear and with
a tendency to prevaricate. Although they know that they have in their
village Christians from Santa Clara, they deny it and furthermore
declare that they will never again admit any [Christian fugitives]. If
it were not for the nuisance it would cause us, the Lieutenant says he
would flog them, but on the return trip he will do so if things go as
they have this time. In the afternoon, after having dismissed all the
wild Indians, we set forth in the same direction, and traveled two
leagues. At this point, opposite the village called or designated
Taualames, we found a ford across the river. However it was very bad,
being wide and deep and with poor approaches. We crossed it without
untoward incident, thanks be to God, and soon halted for the night. I
sent a boy to the village to carry a statement to the natives here of
our purpose to call for Christian fugitives and offer them pardon. Six
heathen Indians returned who, filled with apprehension, said that all
the Christians had gone to the mission and would not be allowed to come
back, but they were lying. Finally they said they would take us to their
village and would come back in the morning to do this. So we sent them
away. In all we have covered today we have not found any place suitable
for establishing a mission.

_24th day._ We got up early and without moving camp I went out with the
Lieutenant and four soldiers to the north, with the intention of getting
to the Río de Dolores [Tuolumne River] two or three leagues away.
However on account of so many sloughs, swamps, and ponds we turned back.
We could see only some high ground, not reached by the floods, which are
as bad as, or worse than, those on this side, or the west side. We also
went into the village and found only a dog and a tame deer. The boy went
into the brush [to get the people] but they did not want to come out,
so we went to eat lunch. In the afternoon we went ahead in the same
south-southeasterly direction up the river. We passed in front of
the Apelamenes and Tatives Indians, who had fought us on the former
occasion, but did not enter the villages for we anticipated that we
would find the houses empty and because of the extensive swamp and lake.
After having gone six leagues and having noted that the high ground not
covered by the river is very poor, is a long distance from the river
and from a wood supply, and is useful for nothing, we arrived at
another river, the Merced, which comes from the east and joins the San
Joaquin.[15] We crossed it, almost swimming the horses. Here is much
wood on both banks of the river: oak, live oak, cottonwood, cypress,
willow, etc. Nevertheless it was clear that the spring floods cover a
great deal of these lands and that only the latter seem to be of value.

_25th day._ In the morning we left here going southwest with the
intention of crossing the San Joaquin River, which was still to the
west of where we slept. Shortly after our departure we came upon an old
village on a height whose lands have a little grass but no rock, and
moreover this place is between two large rivers. We reached the San
Joaquin after one long league and crossed it. Thereafter we crossed
several other swampy sloughs. From here southward there are no more
trees, only tules and more tules.

The Merced River, it seems to me, cannot be dammed, not only because the
soil is pure sand, but because it is now confined between very close
banks. I can say the same of the other stream, the San Joaquin, and
furthermore the bottom is so level that the current is very slow, even
though the water is deep.

From here we turned back down the San Joaquin River and in two and
one-half leagues we reached the scene of the battle, or shaving place,
for at this point now, as previously, the soldiers shave themselves.
Only one wild Indian was seen in the distance when we arrived. We left
here a sick horse. This place is a little elevated, but only the flooded
areas have grass and are without rocks in the entire three leagues
to the western hills. In the afternoon we went forward in the same
direction, downstream, and after a league we got to the arroyo of
Orestimac [Orestimba Cr.], opposite the Apalamenes, the allies of the
Tatives when the latter fought us. This creek, which comes from the
hills, is not flowing nor does it contain water, but it is known that in
the rainy season it fills up and even overflows. This spot is the least
bad on this whole side of the river but even so it would not be suitable
for a mission. It has only firewood, river water, and much good fish.

We kept on and in two more leagues we came to a point opposite the
Taualames Indians. When called by the boy, their kinsman, they refused
to come out, saying that they were afraid. They guessed right for they
would have been taken captive. From this point, considering that the
people of Mayem would also refuse to come out, and that it was not yet
late, we turned west and after crossing three leagues of plain reached
the arroyo of Corpus Christi, where we spent the night[16] without water
for the horses. We had to dig a well in the sand.

_26th day._ We started early toward the west and after six leagues of
mountains and bad trails we reached a place formerly called El Toro,
where we ate lunch, and we, with the horses, drank. In the afternoon,
going in the same direction more or less for another six leagues of
extremely bad trail, we arrived at dark at a little flat with some
pools of good water. This place we called San Guillermo.

_27th day._ From San Guillermo we went six leagues in the same direction
to stop for lunch at the old village of the Pateños. From here in the
afternoon after five leagues to the northwest we reached this mission,
in good condition, thanks be to God.

  Santa Clara Mission,                         Fr. José Viader
  October 28, 1810

FATHER RAMÓN ABELLA'S EXPEDITION, 1811

This manuscript of twenty-seven pages is entitled: "Diario de un
registro de los ríos grandes, October 15-31, 1811." The title page bears
the note:

    A copy in the handwriting of and signed by Gervasio Argüello.

    Exploration of the Eastern Shores of upper San Francisco Bay, San
    Pablo and Suisun Bays and of the lower Sacramento and San Joaquin
    Rivers.

The authorship of this document is something of a mystery. The copy in
the Bancroft Library has the title given above but is in the handwriting
of, and signed by, Gervasio Argüello, who was not a member of the
expedition. If it is Father Abella's actual diary, then how may one
explain the references to "Father Ramón," "the two priests," etc.?
Furthermore, the diction is confused and ungrammatical, unlike what one
would expect of a literate priest. Certain passages give the impression
of a third person who is involved. My own feeling is that Father Abella
kept some sort of record but that these notes, plus a verbal account by
Sergeant José Sanchez, the military commander of the expedition were
worked over by Gervasio Argüello into a day-by-day account which has the
semblance of a diary. Credit for the leadership of the expedition, of
course, remains with Father Abella.

    Exploration of the Eastern Shores of upper San Francisco Bay, San
    Pablo and Suisun Bays and of the lower Sacramento and San Joaquin
    Rivers.

_15th day._ At ten o'clock in the morning we set out from the wharf
at the port and stopped at Angel Island because the tide was running
out.[17] At about four in the afternoon the tide turned and was
favorable. We set out, arrived at the Point of the Huchiunes, and
stopped on the south side of that point. We went during the entire day
about five hours, all at the oar in a calm sea. Angel Island, the Point
of the Huchiunes, and that of the Abastos form a bay equal in size to
that of the Port.[18] It contains eight islands, most of which are
small. One of them, which has to be passed in navigating to the Point
of the Huchiunes, has a sand bar, and it is necessary to pass a little
away from it to the west. It is recognizable only when a bearing is
taken. The west side [of the island] is covered with trees.

_16th day._ We set out from the above-mentioned Point of the Huchiunes,
which we called Point San Pablo. Where we slept is a fairly good beach
with water and firewood where one may stop. This Point San Pablo has
opposite to it another point which we called San Pedro and halfway
between are two little islands. From one point to the other will be
about twice the distance as from the fort to the other shore.[19] These
two points enclose the bay which we have mentioned, and form another,
much larger, which we estimated to extend four leagues. From the center
to the periphery this bay is square. On the northern side and the
western it has five villages, which are still heathen. On the western
side is a cove, according to the Indians quite large, but Ensign Gabriel
Moraga has twice reached its head in the expeditions he has carried out
in these parts.

At one and a half leagues we encountered another point which we called
San Andres.[20] Between the latter and Point San Pablo, all of which is
the mainland of San José,[21] there is a cove which ends in a creek. The
latter, according to those who have traveled past it, and according to
the Indians, is like that of the town [San José] but runs very deep,
and has a fair amount of trees. Between the points there are 4 varas of
water, which drops to 2. This is while cruising some distance from
the shore; farther in it deepens, the same as at the port [of San
Francisco], because there is a channel which carries a considerable
current. All the land of the Huchiunes is quite bare, although there
are some oaks.

As far as Carquinez Strait, with what we covered yesterday and today, we
will have consumed some eight hours all to the northeast, one-quarter
north from the mission. Here, within the eight leagues,[22] the bay
proper ends. The strait is formed by an island[23] and the mainland of
San José. The island soon ends and mainland remains on each side. The
strait runs southeast and makes a half-turn to the south and has a
strong current, according to the rise and fall of the tide. This strait
is about two and one-half leagues long and one-quarter of a league
wide, although in some places rather wider, and ends in the land of
the Chupunes, for there it opens out. At this place we stopped at
eleven-thirty o'clock on a little beach, which at low tide remains dry
and where the boats have to pull back about 200 varas so as not to run
aground. At low tide there is visible a rock, which is covered by the
water and could damage boats approaching the shore. However, a little
farther down, toward the mountain, there is a kind of small stream which
is good [for anchorage]. To this place we gave the name "La División."
It has a large pool of water and considerable firewood. Here we stopped
for the night uneventfully. The shore opposite the mainland of San José
on the strait called Carquinez is very bare country.[24]

_17th day._[25] We set forth at nine o'clock in the morning, and as soon
as we emerged from the strait at the point which, as I have said, we
called "La División," we entered a large bay four or five leagues wide.
Gradually from here the water becomes sweet. We cruised close to the
coast of San José, and at five leagues[26] the estuary begins to
develop. We traveled the whole day as close as possible to the coast
of San José. There are various islands covered with tule rushes and
thickets. At fourteen leagues[27] the rivers begin to form, with tule on
the banks. It is sheer swamp, which prevents any landing on firm ground.

In this branch of the river, as in all the others which we have seen,
we observed that when the tide rises, the water in some places comes up
to a height of a vara and a half, and this is quite to be expected on
account of the flatness of the land and the thrust of the sea through
the Carquinez Strait. The channel of the river over which we traveled
today has a width of a quarter of a league and in places somewhat more.

We cruised today somewhere near eight hours, four of them with a fresh
breeze, and we measured about eighteen leagues, all to the east, with
the river turning now and again to the northeast. We stopped at an
island which has trees of some thickness but which is choked with
underbrush, and it is evidently submerged during floods.

A little before reaching this island the river divides into two
branches. From the mouth some alders are visible at half a league
distance to the left. This is the entrance which should be taken at
this island. The place where we stopped was recognized as a fishing
location of the Ompines, for there were signs of campfires.[28]

_18th day._ We set out from this island at seven o'clock in the morning,
and went back half a league so as to enter the previously mentioned
river mouth (although it seems to me that it is not necessary to go
back, but rather to follow the same entrance for we afterwards saw that
they [the two river mouths] joined each other, a thing which even the
guide had not yet noticed). We traveled about seven leagues to the east,
with a fresh north wind. The river makes some turns at about one-quarter
of the seven-league distance and forms another island with the
opening[29] where we slept. This is why I said that it is not necessary
to turn back. Everything is tule swamp on each side, with an occasional
bush. The channel, as has been stated, is about a quarter of a league
wide. At noon we [stopped and] landed in a swamp. Here the river widens
considerably and there is another opening, which, although somewhat
concealed, communicates with the River of the North.[30] The latter goes
up to the left and is the one we took on the 24th on the down trip.

We set out at two o'clock in the afternoon. At about half a league we
took the opening to the right, which is the one carrying less water and
with some small trees, leaving the one on the left, which is the main
stream, for we always tried to stay as close as we could to the mainland
of San José. But if others come after us, they should follow the main
river, because all the other openings lead to branches which leave it
[the main river] and return to it, forming an infinity of islands.[31]
We cruised to the south, but there are so many twists and windings that
at times we circled the compass. The principal turns are south and
southwest, and the course follows this way twice, but the banks are
covered with nothing but tule, and so high that one sees nothing but
sky, water, and tule. We kept on till eleven o'clock in the evening
because there was no place to stop, and slept in the boats. There is
land but it is flooded. [The stream] has a depth of 8 to 14 varas and a
width of 80 varas, although in some places it widens, as at the turns
and bends. At about nine o'clock at night the river divided into two
parts, and that which we left goes on to join the big river [Río Grande]
which we encountered on the 22nd. It carries more water than the one we
followed, and the two join a little before the place where we set up the
cross. We did not measure the distance we traveled on account of the
bends and turns made by the river.[32]

_19th day._ We set forth at five o'clock in the morning and traveled
until twelve o'clock noon. The river keeps on in the same way with its
windings, covered with tules, but now one meets land that is a little
higher but still bare of trees. We ran upon two or three village sites,
the people from which have already been made Christians at the mission
of San José.[33] We set out again at two o'clock in the afternoon, and
after a league's travel found three heathen women seventy years of age,
with one husband and one boy, who were San José Christians. They had
quite a few fish. This place is known as being good for fishing, and
here, as along all the river, are many signs of beaver, although I have
never seen more than the signs. This afternoon, already, the river has
turned to the east, with an occasional bend to the southwest. We went
about three leagues and slept in the land of the Bolbones. Still there
are ponds and tule swamps, although it is said that white men have
pastured horses only about half a league away.[34]

_20th day._ We set out at sunrise with the intention of saying Mass at
Pescadero in order to have dry land [for the service]. However after a
mile from the start the boats ran aground. Here we sounded the river,
which is seen clearly to be running and which appears to me to carry
about as much water as the river at the ranch at Monterey.[35] The depth
which it had [i.e., we had observed] on the two preceding days was due
to the low level of the land. From here to the mouth found on the 22nd,
which will be about nine or ten leagues, can be traversed by boats only
with much difficulty.

We turned back to the place from which we had set out, where we
celebrated Mass. After four hours, when the water had risen due to the
backing up caused by the reversal of the tide, we again undertook the
same course. As I have said, the river contains very little water and
there are numerous trees. We were desirous of following this pathway
because the Indians said this river had two arms, one of which went on
to join the Río Grande, which we left on the 18th. As has been said we
did reach it on the 22nd.

We went about two leagues with some effort and halted at the village of
Pescadero, called also of the Bolbones. The San José Christians who were
there on a visit presented themselves. From the villages of the vicinity
Father Fray Buenaventura[36] baptized six ill and decrepit heathen women
and the baby boy of a neophyte. In this spot, which is also an island,
the day was passed. On the shore where we landed there are several oak
trees on each side, and the land promises well for wheat, pasturage, or
even corn by dry farming.[37] There are certain trees which are said to
be mangroves, but in time of high water the area will be impassable.[38]

_21st day._ We sent four guides on tule rafts to see whether the boats
could get through. They encountered some difficulty, although they were
optimistic that it was possible [to pass]. We set out at one o'clock at
noon and cruised until nightfall in a direction northeast, one-quarter
east. The stream bed is full of logs and the boats grounded two or three
times. The stream is inadequate for travel by boat. We journeyed about
three or four leagues and stopped at a high spot which had a number of
oak trees but was entirely surrounded by tule swamps. A league from the
starting point we passed out of the slough called Pescadero. We left it
on the right hand and took the [channel] on the left hand, which trends
to the northeast and [with] the opening which we left behind forms an
island. For an Indian went past with a boat and turned off and met us in
the big river [Braso Grande], he going upward and we downward. Although
some of the soldiers said that it [the channel] emptied into White Lake
[Laguna del Blanco][39] I conclude that this is not true, but that White
Lake discharges into the Río Grande. Furthermore, from horseback, in the
tules, one cannot see well, so I base my opinion on what an Indian said.
The matter could not be settled because the boats ran aground.[40]

_22nd day._ We set out from the place of the oak trees at about seven
o'clock in the evening. We went to the southeast with some turns to the
east. We traveled four or five leagues, two of them still in low water.
The river bank was populated with oaks and other trees, and once the
boats ran aground. At the end of the two leagues the water increases
threefold in volume and the river divides into two channels. One of
these is that which we left behind in the evening of the 18th. [The
other] is better because it carries much more water. [Both branches] go
to unite with each other in the middle of the tule swamps, where we
slept on the day mentioned.[41] We kept on cruising up the river with
the tripled volume of water. The water is clear and both banks are
covered with oak trees. At three leagues we encountered the Río Grande.
Here we observed the junction of the rivers; it has about 5 varas depth
in the center and a width of about 100. The river water is pure, because
it was low tide and it is known that the tide exercises little influence
because the land is already high. This place lies about on the parallel
of the Pueblo [San José], according to those who have come by land, and
is distant from the Pueblo some 25 or 26 leagues from east to west,
although it may be a little below this latitude. Here it is evident from
the quantity of water that several rivers have united, for there is no
ford and there would always be required a pontoon or boat to cross the
stream. At this place there are many oak trees on the opposite, or
eastern, shore. There is no tule, and only in great floods does the
river overflow, for the western bank is the lower. Here it is necessary
to take soundings in order to cross from one side to the other.

Four or five leagues higher up, where there is the village of
Christians, the river unites with the watercourse which we left behind
yesterday.[42] It seems to me that in this plain there are islands and
that it would not be difficult to have the horses and cattle cross by
swimming and the people by boats, because the river falls very gently.
This would be much easier than at the Strait of Carquinez, which is the
only other possible place we have seen. All the tule swamp is
impassable.

Just here the river separates by way of two openings: one is that which
we followed this morning; the other is closer to the mainland of the
opposite shore. We are going to follow down the latter because it is the
most direct. Here a cross was made with a chisel in an oak tree, about
four inches wide and correspondingly long, about four varas high and in
the point between the openings. Father Fray Ramón named the river San
Juan Capistrano.[43] If anyone comes back to explore, he should follow
upstream. On the return trip he should not take the entrance to the
left, which is the one we have just come from, because the river is full
of logs. The other one, even if it contains no logs, runs in the middle
of the tule swamps, and in that region nothing can be accomplished[44]
unless it be salmon fishing and beaver [trapping], although I have
already said elsewhere that I saw only their traces.

Here we stopped to eat, and at one o'clock in the afternoon we turned
back and went around the entrance which, as has been said, leads,
isolated, through numerous islands, all of which we have traversed
since the 17th. The largest of these are the most deeply submerged. We
cruised to the northwest, one-quarter north, for some five leagues, for
downstream the boats travel considerably faster, and came upon a village
called "Los Coyboses."[45] Seventy persons of all ages and sexes
presented themselves. The village may hold nearly 180 persons but a
message had been sent to them that we were coming, and it was evident
that the rest had hidden themselves. They seem to be docile people.
Father Fray Buenaventura baptized a sick boy and two women, one of them
decrepit, the other very ill, for there are already from here a few
Christians in the mission of San José. The bank of the river still has
some oak trees, but from here downward the tule swamps begin again. We
halted a league below the village, on a high spot along the river, where
we slept.

_23rd day._ We set out at about seven o'clock in the morning and
traveled some three leagues to the northwest, ignoring the turns, where
we came upon a village, which according to count could contain 900
persons, although they were segregated in three villages, each at some
distance from the other.[46] We saw only one of them, where about 150
persons presented themselves, of both sexes and all ages. They showed us
their landing place, and the houses made it clear that twice as many
people lived there. They had heard [about our arrival] the previous
night and the majority fled. We gave them a few little presents and they
responded in a like manner. It is an excellent place to fish for salmon.

We started out again about two o'clock in the afternoon and went about
five leagues and at the halfway point we found a village which had no
more than two persons. They said that the rest of the people had fled
because they had heard that we were coming that way. They had taken up
the houses, which are of straw, and all their personal belongings. The
currents of the river downstream strike sharply against this village.
The land is a little higher, the oaks can be seen from the opposite
shore, and there is already dry land along the river we are following.
So say the Indians. Farther down we came onto another village which had
been completely removed at the same time. We even caught them going
ashore, whereupon they threw away their possessions, abandoned their
boats, and hid in the tule swamps. No matter how hard we tried we could
not succeed in finding more than four persons and two dogs. They said
they had done this on account of the fear which they had for us. Here
again is land under water. On this day the Father from San José baptized
some sick people and infants who had some connection with the neophytes
of San José Mission. During the afternoon we cruised to the northwest,
with some turns to the north. The river divides into two channels, but
soon they join again forming an island.[47]

_24th day._ The previous night we slept in the tule swamp and the water
reached our blankets at the turn of the tide. The whole area is this way
for several leagues. The water rose about one and one-half varas. We
observed that the people who had run away from the rancheria, as I
have said, yelled a great deal, obviously to collect together all the
inhabitants who had hidden by letting them know that we had already
moved on.

We set out about six o'clock in the morning, following the direction of
the river, which runs to the northwest, although it turns occasionally
north and south. We traveled about seven leagues and came upon several
openings which entered and left here and there, but all of little
consequence. They all connect with the river which we are following. In
the afternoon we started at one o'clock. The river widens wherever it
shoals, and in some places becomes almost a bay, because the land is
very low. After going three leagues from this afternoon's starting point
we came upon the entrance which we took on the 18th on the up-trip and
the one of which I spoke on the 22nd. Here the waters of the river again
unite.[48] This entrance remains on the left hand going downstream.
There are a few small trees, like brush, and on the opposite bank also
a few other small trees. If people come up this way again, they should
leave this entrance to their right hand and go directly up the river
because this [route] is much better and shorter. We went on down the
river. At half a league we took another channel on the right [going
downstream] which is an arm of the Río de San Francisco [Sacramento] and
which connects here with the San Juan Capistrano [San Joaquin]. This can
be navigated only by pilots familiar with the terrain, such as performed
the task for us. It seems small at first, but later widens considerably,
and from here on travels northward. At the end of a league we
encountered two other entrances, one of which leads north and the
other east. That to the east we did not explore, for, according to
the statements of the Indians, who said that it came to an end soon,
it appeared to me to be one of the [branches of] the Río San Juan
Capistrano which we saw this morning, and which breaks off to the
right. I was not certain of this but it seemed likely, according to
the direction and the opinion of the Indians. We took the branch to the
north, as I said, and in a little while we stopped on a height in the
midst of a thicket full of trees of considerable thickness, but which is
nevertheless an island, as we saw in the following days. To the other
side of this high ground everything is under water. The Indians today
did not cease returning to see what course we were taking, but we could
not catch them because everywhere they hide in the swamps.

_25th day._ We set out at seven o'clock in the morning. We cruised to
the north, with a few turns to the east. I have already said that this
is a branch of the Río de San Francisco. It is necessary to traverse it
by day because it has several tree trunks crosswise in the channel, but
it has depth and width. At about three leagues we suddenly ran onto
three heathen Indians. At first they fled precipitately, but soon they
halted, because one had just been on a visit to Mission San José with
the two other heathen and two neophytes of the same mission, San
José. These we sent to the village so that we should not come upon it
unexpectedly. The third [heathen] we took with us in the boat. At about
two leagues we descried the village, which was in two sections, one on
each side of the river.[49] As soon as [the inhabitants] saw us there
began a great uproar, in spite of which they told us by signs where the
river was deepest. The two guides whom we carried with us managed to
make them be quiet, and performed good services in this respect. We went
ashore and only the priests and two soldiers stayed in the boat. The
Indians went ahead with their chatter and finally they [the natives]
calmed down. The village, as I have said already, is divided between
the two banks of the river, which is perhaps 30 to 40 varas wide. Those
on the left hand, which is to the west,[50] were of evil disposition.
However much those on the right bank tried, they could not induce more
than half of the men [on the left bank] to cross to the other side.
Finally they were half pacified, although it always seemed as if they
were in a bad mood. They were given a few little presents, and they gave
acorn mush to the neophytes. About 200 men presented themselves, for
other villages had joined them. Already they had told us that they, the
Tauquimenes, were going to fight.

There was a large population but only a few old women allowed themselves
to be seen. The young women, boys, and girls had hidden, either in the
brush or in the houses themselves. Soon after we had arrived there
sixteen young men appeared, making a disturbance, as they are accustomed
to do. One of the chiefs ran to meet them, as well as an elderly woman,
and took their bows away from them. We ate with them, although it was
rather uncomfortable because they never did quiet down entirely. They
said they were behaving in this manner because they had been told that
we had killed all the people at the village of the Coyboses, which is
near Pescadero on one of the branches of the Río de San Juan Capistrano
[San Joaquin]. Furthermore, I am sure that [the population] of several
villages had come together in this restricted locality, because some of
the Indians said they had come to gather acorns and there are extensive
woods [here]. At last peace was established and we took our departure,
although before we left we told them that if they wanted to fight, let
them take up their arms. But they said no.

After traveling about a mile we entered the river, which here divides
into two branches. It is a fine river and carries plenty of water;
indeed the stream which we had been following contained no more than
one-third as much. The river extends to the north, but from here we went
down the branch to the west.[51] The heathen now came out to accompany
us and show us the way. This division of the stream is 28 to 30 leagues
east of the mission of San Francisco.

Having gone down the river one league we came upon another village which
had fourteen houses, and in this village there were already some of the
men who had been in the previous one. They showed us the landing place
and behaved in a very friendly fashion, but nevertheless we saw no more
than two or three women of great age. So we went along, seeing other
little hamlets of two or three houses, and it became evident that all
[the inhabitants] had assembled in the large village previously
mentioned.

In all this day we traveled about twelve leagues and the number of
people may have reached some 1,200 souls. However there may have
been more, for the first [village] could have contained about 2,000,
according to the size of the houses here, which are 28 to 30 varas
in circumference with a post in the center. Also it was said that a
considerable number of people were higher up [the river] gathering
acorns.

All that we have passed today is part of an island. Each branch [of the
river] is covered with trees on both banks, of various kinds and very
large. There are many walnut trees and wild grapes but the latter have
stems so thick that those who have seen grapes in favorable countries
say they have never seen such thick trunks. The land on both sides rises
considerably. It is excellent for anything which one might wish to sow,
in those areas not covered with underbrush.[52]

Higher up the river the heathen said there was another channel which
is as large, or larger than, the one which we are following. This is
true, for the next day we found where it joined with the latter and
the [volume of] water is doubled.[53] Therefore the river higher up
must be little smaller than the San Juan Capistrano. We stopped and
slept on an elevation covered with trees of the kinds described
previously.

_26th day._ We set out at seven o'clock in the morning. The river
spreads out considerably and in two places the boats ran aground because
the tide was very low. However there is a [deeper] channel along the
banks. After we had gone about a league and a half we reached the stream
entrance which was mentioned yesterday and the water was doubled in
quantity and the river now was about 7 varas deep and 400 wide. From
here downward [the river] seems like an arm of the ocean, for the land
becomes lower and at the meeting point of the sea and the other river
the current is brought to a standstill. The two streams are from the
Río de San Francisco and, with the stream which we left yesterday,
constitute in all three channels and consequently form islands.[54]
Farther above, where all the water is united in a single stream, the
river must be as large as it is down here, but nevertheless it will not
be as large as the San Juan Capistrano.

Down here, where the two channels unite, there is a village of the
Ompines. Some of the people have already been baptized at San José,
because they [are accustomed to] pass over to the opposite shore. We
traveled in the entire day some twelve leagues and stopped where the
hills end which are opposite the high hill of the Bolbones and which are
very bare, completely devoid of trees and shrubs. However, the deer
run in herds, for there are some great plains with an occasional low
hill.[55] Those persons should come to this point who wish to sail up
the Río de San Francisco, as we have heard it was formerly called, for
it was here that the schooners turned around.[56] We went on to the
place where we slept on the 17th of this month and it seems to me that
they [the former explorers] came this far and must have returned from
here, that is, without ascending higher up the river, because there is
not enough water for schooners.

The first six leagues which we covered today are populated, as I said
before, with various kinds of trees, but the last six are very bare.
This Río de San Francisco, which we are now leaving, is good for any
kind of settlement and contains many people, but one cannot get to it
except by boat. The narrowest passages are at the Port of San Francisco
or at the Strait of Carquinez.

_27th day._ Holy Mass was celebrated at the hill of the Ompines. We set
out at about eleven o'clock in the morning and went some twelve leagues,
six of them to the north and the rest winding through a slough of fresh
water close to the land of the opposite shore. We slept on a height
about a league before arriving at the plain of the Suisunes. All that
we have passed today is low, but very bare hills; in all this country
there is no running stream. Going from here to the Suisunes there must
be at least a half-tide so that the boats will not run aground.[57]

_28th day._ Holy Mass was celebrated, the day being that of the Holy
Apostles, St. Simon and St. Jude. We went about one league and stopped
at the end of the slough of the Suisunes [Suisun Slough] at half a
boat's length from shore so that one could jump onto solid ground.
It was on a big plain, with fine land, completely covered at a short
distance with oaks and live oaks, finally becoming uneven and hilly.
The Serro de los Bolbones [Mt. Diablo] lies about twelve leagues to
the southwest.

We sent four neophytes from the San Francisco Mission, natives of this
area, to locate their countrymen, and fifty men from two villages
presented themselves, all unarmed. They brought us some of those things
which they held in highest esteem and gave us their war decorations.[58]
We responded in the same manner by paying part of their value. The
villages are called Malaca and Suisun. According to what the Indians
said, the latter is divided into three parts. They claimed that it
was quite close but according to the signs between here and the shore
somewhat less than two leagues away; a short time ago they were living
on the shore. That was where Second Lieutenant Gabriel Moraga struck
them the blow.[59] Thoroughly cowed the poor people have remained, for
they are badly scared. There is another village called Ululato farther
away. It had been told us that they wanted to fight but the exact
opposite happened, because they did not dare to visit us. In terror
they sent us some eighteen presents, which were not worth much, using
a Suisun as messenger, and stated, as I have indicated, that they were
afraid to approach us. The presents were paid for, by means of the
Suisun, who was sent to tell them that they should not be afraid.
But they did not appear. It is known that these people are all very
tractable. The place is very good for the establishment of missions but
there remains the difficulty of getting there except by boat through the
narrow passages mentioned above.

_29th day._ We set out at two o'clock in the morning and arrived at
Carquinez Strait by sunrise. The section which we traversed this morning
is a large bay, and before arriving at the Strait the water is already
salty. The Carquinez Hills also are bare.[60] We stopped below the
Strait about four hours and in the afternoon arrived at Angel Island
opposite the Presidio. We sailed in the afternoon under a favorable wind
and reversed the trip of the first two days by the same route. The two
bays and their islands are discussed there [i.e., the entries for the
first two days]. We could have reached the Presidio if we had not
stopped so long, because on the down trip one goes at least twice as
fast. This is because at least eight of the twelve hours from tide to
tide are consumed by the outgoing tide, which flows very rapidly. There
is a quite natural reason [for this phenomenon], for the water which
enters must flow out again, having been held in the meantime by the
rivers, plus that which the rivers themselves carry down. All this I
have already heard from the Indians, and on that account those who are
not very skillful, struggling to[61]...

_30th day._ We left Angel Island, opposite the Presidio at ten o'clock
in the morning. Up till now the sea had been calm, but now a squall fell
upon us, the sea arose, and we took shelter on the opposite shore, in
front of the fort. The sea stayed in this condition all day. In the
afternoon it seemed to certain persons that there was some improvement.
Finally we crossed, although the sea was quite rough and we, the
fifty-eight people, arrived at the Presidio. The only difficulty was
the breaking of a rudder pintle of the mission boat on a log, but it
was soon repaired.

  Presidio of San Francisco,                 Gervasio Argüello
  31 October 1811                                     (rubric)

JOSÉ ARGÜELLO'S ATTACK ON AN INDIAN VILLAGE, 1813

The excerpt below is apparently a direct quotation, although there are
no quotation marks in the transcript.

  _José Argüello to Governor Arrillaga_
  San Francisco, October 31, 1813
  (Prov. St. Pap., XIX: 334-348)

    On the 22nd of the month now ending ten soldiers left this Presidio
    and embarked in one of the launches of the near-by mission of San
    Francisco in order to join Master Sergeant Francisco Soto. He left
    San José Mission the same day with two soldiers and 100 Indian
    auxiliaries for the purpose of capturing the fugitives from the
    above-mentioned mission of San José. Having united on the 25th with
    the troops which set sail from here the 22nd, he navigated the
    rivers all the night of the 25th, hiding as soon as day dawned on
    the 26th so as not to be detected.

    The following night they continued and at dawn of the 27th they fell
    upon the village where the fugitives were located.[62] This was on
    a quite large island, very brush and swamp. Nevertheless they were
    observed long before they arrived because the fugitive Indians,
    informed many days previously that the soldiers were going in search
    of them, gathered together the people of four villages throughout
    the area and sent out their spies and scouts in all directions from
    which they suspected they might be surprised. They segregated at the
    same time all the women and children who could act as a hindrance
    to them and held all the warriors to await the troops. As a result,
    when the troops arrived they encountered a stubborn resistance, for
    they were opposed on all sides by innumerable Indians who were
    waiting, fully prepared.

    According to Soto's estimate, there might have been over 1,000
    warriors. The latter attacked with such fury that all the valor
    of the soldiers was necessary in order to repulse them. This was
    accomplished by heavy fire, the hostile Indians maintaining their
    offensive for a long time and holding their position on all sides
    without perceiving the damage which their obstinacy caused them.
    They were confident perhaps in their own great number and the small
    number of soldiers and Indian auxiliaries with whom they were
    contending, as well as the advantages provided them by the terrain.
    Soto for a while saw victory as uncertain, because of the large
    number of adversaries, and the multitude of arrows which flew
    at them, while at the same time the enemy showed only obstinate
    resistance. Finally the savages recognized that the resistance was
    merely a danger to themselves and decided to retreat. Then, although
    Soto pursued them in their flight for a long time he gained no
    decision because of the difficulties of the terrain, where it was
    necessary in places to walk in water up to the knees. The Indians
    were much favored by very close thickets in which they could hide.
    Although they were dislodged from that place, the river was very
    near and they all jumped in to swim, some crossing to the opposite
    island, others hiding in the dense tule swamps where they could not
    be followed. For this reason it was not possible to capture anyone.

    The enemy was left badly beaten and adequately punished for his
    boldness, for the battle was very costly, and in the action a
    considerable number were killed. On our part only one of the Indian
    auxiliaries died, a man named Julio, whom they seriously wounded but
    who got back without being captured by our opponents. This loss,
    compared with that suffered by the enemy and considered with
    reference to the very limited number who broke them and cut them
    to pieces, makes it reasonable to consider the outcome favorable,
    particularly in view of the poor chances attending a campaign with
    such unequal numbers and with such advantages in terrain for the
    savages. Thus the troops had to stand waiting for the enemy, and at
    the same time watch their footing on ground so muddy and swampy that
    in places the water came above their knees. This in turn made the
    savages more desperate in their attack because they encouraged each
    other by saying (as the Indian auxiliaries interpreted them) that
    the soldiers were worth nothing on foot, that they knew how to fight
    only on horseback. But they came out very disillusioned for they
    found that [the soldiers] fought on foot the same as on horseback
    and that their weapons were invincible, regardless of style.

    At the end of the attack, which lasted for three hours, retirement
    was accomplished from this place on the afternoon of the same day,
    the 27th. Again all the people were embarked and, after landing on
    the mainland of San José, the Indian auxiliaries took up their march
    toward that mission under the care of two soldiers. Soto continued
    his journey by water with the remaining troops and the Indian
    oarsmen as far as the Presidio, where he arrived on the evening of
    the 28th....[63]

    ... Worthy of praise, as Soto himself declared to me, are the Indian
    auxiliaries who accompanied him by virtue of their obedience and the
    valor with which they threw themselves into the most dangerous parts
    of the battle--without showing any cowardice.[64]

VI. EXPEDITIONS, 1815-1820

In 1815 a joint expedition consisting of two or more parties traversed
the valley. Two full accounts remain, those of Ortega and of Pico. In
1816 Father Luís Antonio Martinez circulated in the Tulare Lake region,
some of his exploits generating a lively controversy with other friars.
The delta was again visited in 1817 by Father Narciso Duran, who left
an extensive diary. With him was Lieutenant Luís Argüello, who also
submitted a report. All these documents are presented herewith.

The last important expedition of the pioneering period was that of
Estudillo in 1819, but, as explained previously, this diary has already
been translated and published. Subsequent to 1820 numerous incursions
were made into the valley and even well into the Sierra Nevada. They
were, however, not exploratory in character but were outright military
raids and campaigns. They should therefore not be included in the
present group of expeditions.

ORTEGA'S EXPEDITION TO KINGS RIVER AND TULARE LAKE, 1815

_Juan Ortega's Diary_

    Copy, made by Sergeant Ortega at Mission San Juan Bautista with
    covering letter, of diary, November 4-15, 1815, of expedition from
    Mission San Miguel, accompanied by Father Juan Cabot and soldiers,
    in search of runaway Indians. Report on the lower Kings River and
    "Tulare Lake" area.

    Diary written by Master Sergeant Don Juan de Ortega with reference
    to the localities which, by order of the Governor, I was directed to
    survey, reckoning from November 4 up to the day when junction was
    made with Sergeant José Dolores Pico on Kings River.

_4th day._ At about ten o'clock in the evening I arrived at San Miguel
Mission with a party of fifteen men. At one and one-half leagues from
the mission we joined that night another party of the same number which
came from Monterey.

_5th day._ This day I left the said mission, accompanied by Reverend
Father Fray Juan Cabot and, together with the party, moved camp for the
night at the place called Cholam.[1]

_6th day._ We stayed all day in this place organizing the horses.

_7th [and 8th] day._ At dawn we started out and camped for the night
at Chenem. Here I remained all day of the 8th until sundown. Then we
traveled all night so as not to be seen by the Indians. Because we were
now in the Plain of the Tulares and because it is a land without trails
the guide and all of us lost our direction and did not know where we
were. However, having sent out Corporal Juan Arroyo, a soldier, and the
guide to explore, they returned after a long time with the report that
we were near Kings River. I immediately ordered haste to be made, but
even so we could not reach the crossing of the river before dawn.

_9th day._ Realizing that it was useless to fall upon the village of
Tache[2] in the daytime, for the sun was already up, I decided to remain
hidden all day in a low area formed by a bend in the river. We managed
to catch two old Indians who were coming to fish who, before they went
back to their village of Tache, told us its correct location. At sunset,
the same afternoon, I decided to post two men with horses hidden at the
river crossing to prevent Indians from getting to the village. After
they had been there a little while two Indians appeared on horseback
going through the meadow toward the village mentioned, with four
animals ahead of them, one loaded with fish. However, seeing themselves
overtaken by the soldiers, they abandoned horses and saddle and crossed
the river by swimming. In the darkness of the night, along the river and
in the tule swamps and thickets it was impossible to catch them. By the
saddle the soldier Martin Olivera recognized the Indian Antonio, a
fugitive from Soledad Mission.

_10th day._ At dawn I attacked the village of Tache although
considerably discouraged by my suspicion that the two Indian fugitives
had given word during the night of our arrival. As a matter of fact, I
found the village deserted. I followed through the tule swamp and after
going a little way I met three armed Indians at a distance of about one
hundred long varas. We talked to them through the interpreter. The reply
they gave us was that they were afraid; whereupon they plunged into the
marshy lake. I waited here until nearly nine o'clock in the morning,
together with the Father, calling to them. Finally some eight or nine of
them showed themselves, unarmed, but buried deep in the swamp. We urged
them to come out, but with no effect. They said that all the people were
scared and were hiding in the lake because the fugitive Indians and
other Christian runaways from Soledad had told them we were coming to
kill them at the point of the lance. Here were found three horses, one
from San Miguel and two from Soledad, formerly in possession of the
fugitives. These Indians informed us that the Indian Antonio and his
companions the previous night had started in the direction of the
village of Notonto.[3] With a view to seeing if we could catch them I
decided to visit the latter village. But all was in vain, for we arrived
at the town a little before sunset and were received by the Indian
inhabitants with much affection. Indeed, two of them came out to meet us
on the road, giving us their poor presents and imparting the information
that no fugitives had appeared there. After the Father, with some of
the soldiers, had dismounted and after they had inspected the entire
village, we retired to camp for the night at a distance of one and a
half gunshots. The Indians came there to serve the troops by bringing
water and firewood.

_11th day._ At dawn the Indians returned to bid us farewell with much
rejoicing. We took the direction of the village of Telame,[4] where we
arrived at sunset. The people of this big village we found to be totally
dispersed on account of the heavy mortality and great famine which they
had been suffering. However, we were received with much affability and
were given presents. The Father succeeded in baptizing four very old
women and one man who was dying.

_12th day._ We set out in search of the village of Choynoct,[5] spending
almost all the day looking for it. We found it in the same manner as the
previous one [Telame] and in the same condition. From there we went to
pass the night higher up on the San Gabriel River.

_13th day._ We went on and spent the night at the crossing of this river.

_14th day._ We took the direction of the village of Sumtache.[6] After
having gone about a league and a half into the tule swamp along a narrow
trail we found the village on the other side of an arm of the lake, with
some twenty armed men in front of it. However, after we had talked to
them and stated the purpose of our visit, several of them laid down
their weapons and came to where we were. Reproached for having received
the troops in such a manner, they said they were scared because the
fugitive Indians from Soledad had told them the soldiers were coming to
kill them all. Asked by the Father where were the four Indians of his
mission who were fugitives in this village, they replied that two had
gone to the village of Bubal to join the Christians who were there with
license to travel (as actually was the case) and that the other two had
gone the previous week to the village of Tulamne, toward the south.
After instructing them, according to the Governor's orders, that they
should accept no fugitives in the future we took the path toward the
village of Bubal. We did not arrive until about eleven o'clock in the
evening because its location had been changed and the guide could not
find it. Here we were received with more affability than at the previous
places.

_15th day._ At dawn we followed our course toward a junction with the
party of Sergeant José Dolores Pico, a junction which we actually
effected at about seven o'clock in the afternoon. In all the journey
described no slaughter of horses has been observed and no adverse
sentiment on the part of the Indians excepting only the fear inspired
among them at the village of Tache and Sumtache by the fugitives from
Soledad. I may note that at the village of Tache the Father baptized the
only man discovered there, a man incapacitated, covered with leprosy
[lepra], and debilitated by illness.

As far as the remainder of the expedition is concerned, up to the 2nd of
December, I refer to the account written by Sergeant José Dolores Pico,
since I have no additions or changes to make in it. The foregoing is
what I have to communicate to your Excellency, in compliance with my
obligations.

  Mission San Juan Bautista,                    Juan de Ortega
  December 2, 1815                                    (rubric)

_José Dolores Pico's Diary, 1815_

    Copy of a diary, November 3-December 3, 1815, signed by Pico at
    Mission San Juan Bautista, as a report to Governor Pablo Vicente de
    Sola, of an expedition, including Fr. Jaime Escude and soldiers, in
    search of runaway Indians. Starting from Mission San Juan Bautista,
    the expedition proceeded eastward to the valley of the San Joaquin,
    joined the expedition led by Sergeant Juan de Ortega, and returned
    with them.

    Diary written by Sergeant José Dolores Pico by order of Governor Don
    Pablo Vicente de Sola from the 3rd day of November, 1815.

_3rd day [of November]._ I left the Presidio [of Monterey] and went as
far as the Royal Treasury, where all the troops under my command were
mobilized. This day there were no events worth recording.

_4th day._ On this day I inspected the troops, the ammunition, and the
weapons, and at about five o'clock in the afternoon continued my march
toward the place called Ansaimas [Paraje de los Ansaimas].[7] Near seven
o'clock in the evening I arrived with one soldier at Mission San Juan,
where I met Reverend Father Fray Jaime Escude. After reviewing the
troops who were to go with me from the mission, we started on our way,
the Father being with us, at quarter past twelve at night. At about one
o'clock in the morning we met the rest of the troops at the Arroyo of
San Benito. All well.

_5th day._ We continued our march to the place mentioned [Ansaimas],
where we met citizens Cornelio Lucas Altimirano, Manuel Pinto, and
Quintin Ortega, all with weapons and horses. Here I remained the rest
of the day waiting for the equipage of the Father, which had not yet
arrived.

_6th day._ We left this place at about five o'clock in the morning,
taking an easterly direction, and at about seven o'clock in the evening
we arrived at the place called San Luis Gonzaga, which is situated at
the foot of the Sierra on the border of the Tulare Valley. Here we
passed the night without incident.

_7th day._ In the morning I again inspected the troops and the munitions
and at about nine o'clock in the evening we started out, going toward
the east. At twelve o'clock midnight we reached the Tulares at the
arroyo called San José.[8] Here we passed the remainder of the night
up to the hour of attacking the village of the Cheneches.[9]

_8th day._ At three o'clock in the morning we left this place and fell
upon the said village at four o'clock. Sixty-six souls were captured,
between Christians and heathen, women and men. I released four men and
twelve old women, who were crippled. The majority of the people escaped
because this village is in a bad location. Here were found seven live
horses and five recently dead. The Father baptized an infant girl on the
point of death, to whom he gave the name Severa. These heathen told me
that at a distance of four leagues up the River San Joaquin from this
village there was another village called Nopchenches, which had many
horses, and at which were to be found the Christian fugitives Justo,
Damian, Severo, and Pedro Pablo. I sent Corporal Juarez with fourteen
men to arrest the said Christians and heathen, and bring back the horses
which they said were to be found there.

Reaching the village, he entered it, but no people remained except
the chief and four of his companions. The corporal charged him with
[concealing] the Christians and the horses which had been there. To this
he replied that the Christians, together with all his people, as soon as
they heard the noise of the troops going to the other village, had fled
to the swamps and that he and the others with him alone remained. He
also said that at the edge of the swamp there were two more and that he
would go and get them. This he did and on his return the corporal told
him to call to his people (with the idea of catching them) to help him
capture the Christians. He said he was going to bring them and went off
with the others who were already with him. They did not return, although
he [the Corporal] remained waiting a long time. Seeing that they were
not coming back, he retired and reported to me. We then directed our
course back to the place called San José. Here I consulted with the
corporals and decided not to attack the village of Malim, for the
Tulares were very much stirred up and it did not seem wise to do so
until our return. No other news.

_9th day._ This morning I ordered Corporal Castillo with eight men to
escort 54 Indians, heathen and Christians, to the Presidio. After having
set him on his way I took a southerly direction and emerged from the
tule swamp. Having traveled about eight leagues from the said swamp
I turned in an easterly direction toward the San Joaquin River. On
arriving at this river at about six o'clock in the afternoon I was told
that some armed heathen were crossing to the opposite bank. Immediately
Corporal Juarez went over with some men to investigate them. The
heathen, seeing that the soldiers were crossing the river, gathered in
a village near by and began to shoot at them without further delay. The
corporal ordered [his men] to fire, killing two, and at that moment I
arrived with the rest of the troops. The enemy retired some distance
into the thickets. Thereupon I ordered all the troops to bring up the
horses and remount, but after consulting briefly with the corporals, we
decided it was better to retire a distance of two leagues and wait till
the next day because night had already fallen.

_10th day._ At three o'clock in the morning of this day I was informed
by Soldier Mariano Soberanes (who was on duty as sentinel) that a light
was to be seen in a thicket near the camp. I ordered Soldier Archuleta
to reconnoitre and he returned saying that the illumination was a
gunshot away and that it could be the heathen of the previous day
intending to attack us at dawn. I ordered the sentinels to be on the
alert.

At five o'clock in the morning I told two men to investigate the exposed
fire. As soon as they got close they encountered the heathen Indians,
who were already coming to attack the camp, and fired on the first of
them. As soon as we heard the uproar which resulted I came up with the
troops to oppose them. Having formed a line of battle, I told the
interpreter to ask them what they wanted and they answered, to fight.
Even after we had said to them that the officer in charge did not wish
to do them any harm, they gave no heed, but began to fight. Seeing this
I ordered them to be fired upon. They then retreated to the interior of
the underbrush. The troops dismounted at my command and fell upon them,
killing three and capturing one alive. Of the dead, one was found to be
a Christian of Mission San Juan and a leader in stealing horses. Of
those who escaped some were seen to be wounded, and, according to the
quantity of blood visible along the river, I consider that most of them
must have died. The action having ceased, I ordered Corporal Juarez with
ten men to make a reconnaissance of the rancheria, which was called
Copicha, to see if there were any horses. They brought out one, together
with two Indians. The latter were among those who had been in the battle
and, along with the other [captured as described above], confessed that
they had followed us to this place with the purpose of killing us, the
dead Christian being the one most determined to do this. During the
night they [the Indians] shot a few arrows but did us no damage. During
the engagement the only casualty was Soldier Juan Espinoza who received
a dart between his coat and his skin, but it did not hurt him.

At eleven o'clock in the morning we set out in a direction south and
a little east and at a distance of eight leagues we came upon eleven
animals belonging to the village of Tape, which was in a wood along the
same river bottom. These we gathered up, leaving the village for the
return trip because it was already afternoon. At about four leagues we
reached the junction of the San Joaquin and the San José rivers where we
camped. We left behind one horse, exhausted and unable to travel. Here
we spent the night without incident.

_11th day._ At five o'clock in the morning we continued in the same
direction as on the previous day, going along the River San José. At
about 4 leagues we crossed it and traveled to the east in order to avoid
bad traveling. After a league we resumed the former direction and at a
distance of nine leagues we camped for the night on the bank of the same
[river]. There had fallen by the wayside one exhausted and useless horse
and one more of those which we had recovered from the Indians. Here we
passed the night without incident.

_12th day._ At five o'clock in the morning we set out in the same
direction and at about ten leagues we encountered a conflagration, at
which there were some heathen Indians. As soon as we saw them I made
arrangements to catch them, but as soon as they saw us, they presented
themselves without any apprehension. They gave us the news that they had
seen the troops accompanying Don Juan Ortega the previous day on Kings
River. They told me they would take me there, which they did. On the way
we came upon two villages of these same people, called Gumilchis,[10]
who all showed themselves to be very agreeable. I informed them that the
high chief who governed us wished them all well and was pleased at the
good journey which they made possible for the troops. I said that they
should not admit Christians or horses in their villages because the said
chief requested it. We crossed the river, where we came upon the trail
of the troops mentioned. We followed this trail for a league and camped
for the night without incident.

_13th day._ At dawn of this day Soldier Juan Martinez was sick in his
stomach, and about seven o'clock in the morning we started out in a
southerly direction. At four leagues we camped without further trouble.

_14th day._ This day we remained in the same place awaiting the troops
brought by Don Juan Ortega, and the soldier Martinez recovered without
difficulty.

_15th day._ At about six o'clock in the afternoon the troops which we
were expecting arrived, with their horses used very roughly, for three
leagues back they had abandoned seven exhausted animals. Otherwise all
was well.

_16th day._ The seven worn-out animals were brought in. We agreed upon
what should be done, but the departure was postponed until the following
day. No other news.

_17th day._ At three o'clock in the afternoon we left this place,
moving back by the same road and visiting, as we passed, the village
of Notonoto. Here we were received with much affection and made the
same speech as to the Gumilchis. At a distance of two leagues, going
west, we crossed the river and there spent the night without incident.

_18th day._ This day we took the same direction,[11] a little to the
northwest. We wanted to pass by the villages which we had seen before.
The inhabitants of these, on seeing the troops, took to the brush, and
no matter how much we called to them, through the interpreter, they did
not come. We followed our course, coming finally to sleep at a lake at
the edge of the tule swamp. To this we gave the name of San Pablo and
spent the night there without incident.

_19th day._ We left this place at two o'clock in the afternoon in order
to attack a village which the guides said was to be found in the meadow
along the San Joaquin River. When it appeared to us that we were near
it, we stopped to await the dawn in order to attack. Meanwhile we
recovered the two horses which previously had fallen exhausted in
the same locality. No other incident.

_20th day._ At about three o'clock in the afternoon we went to the
above-mentioned river in search of the village which the guide talked
about. Having arrived at the spot the guide was asked where the village
was. He said it was so far away that we would get there only at sunset.
We asked him why he had deceived us and he answered because he felt
cold. We asked him again and he said that the village of Tape was the
one which was to be found in that direction. However, since it was
afternoon we decided to wait for the horses, which had been left with
ten soldiers and two cowboys. They crossed the river without our knowing
where. We asked the guide the location of the ford so that we could join
the other soldiers with the horses but we failed to do so because the
guide misled us. We slept at the junction of the San José and San
Joaquin rivers, one league apart, with no other incident.

_21st day._ At nine o'clock in the morning we joined the troops with
the horses, killing on the way two deer to supply the troops, who were
without provisions. The day passed by and we decided to attack the
village mentioned previously at four o'clock the next morning. But we
did not carry out this plan because of a great stampede of the horses
at about ten o'clock in the evening. Even though all the troops were
mounted it was not possible to contain the stampede, because many
animals had scattered in numerous groups. At this misfortune the
Christian Indian from Santa Cruz, who had accompanied us through Kings
River, deserted us. He had seemed so devoted that we had released him
from his bonds so that he could better bear the hardships of the road.

_22nd day._ This morning the horses were counted and sixty-five animals
were missing. Corporals Francisco Juarez, Antonio Olivera, Juan Arroyo,
and Encargado José Villavicencio, taking ten men [each] and Rivera with
four were ordered to go out in different directions. Juarez, going to
the east, found thirty-eight animals and had to kill one horse because
it was exhausted. Arroyo, who went to the south, brought the news that
the tracks led to the trail toward Soledad, but because it was late he
turned back. Villavicencio, who went to the north, reported that at a
distance of a league and a half there was a village. Near it was a mule,
one of those we had lost during the preceding night, and Villavicencio
had seen tracks of horses going down to drink. He saw some old Indians
coming toward the woods in which he was hidden, so he did not leave the
woods and did not catch the mule, in order to avoid being seen by the
old people. Olivera brought back no information. It was decided to
attack the village at dawn in case some of the inhabitants had remained
there. Nothing else to report.

_23rd day._ This day we set out for the village mentioned, which,
according to information taken from Indian prisoners, we know to be
Tapee. After surrounding it on both sides of the river, we caught three
old Indian men, one Christian from Santa Cruz, together with eight old
women. Here we came upon two hundred and thirty-eight recently killed
animals, a great deal of meat quartered and dried, and sixteen live
animals, mares and riding horses, some shot with arrows and others very
badly treated. Most of these horses belong to Mission San Juan. The
heathen mentioned previously were asked where were the people of this
village. [The reply was that] first they had waited for us down the
river with three others who claimed that we were coming in search of
them, and then they had gone to the hills. A few of the people were
opposite the village in the woods. The troops went on foot to hunt for
them but found no one.

The Christian was held captive and the old men, after being chastised,
were let loose. It was then decided that Corporal Arroyo should go right
away to follow the trail which he had abandoned the day before, taking
ten men with two mounts each. He was to return the following day with or
without the lost horses. Here the troops were provided with some dried
fish (although bad) and wild rice, with which they managed to pass the
two days we were in this locality. No other incident.

_24th day._ Corporal Arroyo arrived about four o'clock in the afternoon
with the information that the horses had gone toward San Luis Gonzaga.
We decided to follow on our way. No other news.

_25th day._ Today we continued with our expedition and at about seven
o'clock in the morning we arrived at the village of Cupicha, which we
found without inhabitants. (This village is in the meadow along the
river where the San Joaquin joins the Tecolote.) We inquired of the
heathen Indians whom we had with us and they told us the people had
moved to the mountains.

We went westward and crossed the river. At this point Corporal Arroyo
was sent to follow up the tracks which he had relinquished the previous
day, and the place was specified where we were to meet. He took with him
four soldiers and two cowboys, who were to go to San Luis Gonzaga for
provisions. He also had orders that, if he found the trail going in that
direction, he should turn it over to Manuel Butron and that the latter
should continue on to the place mentioned and send back a sack of
pinole, which we had left in storage there, and two belonging to the
Father. At about seven o'clock in the evening Arroyo returned with the
information that he had turned over the trail to the said Butron. In
the morning three soldiers were incapacitated, Atenacio Mendoza, José
Soberanes, and José Espinoza, the first with a head-ache, the second
with a stomach-ache, and the third with a bad foot due to a fall from a
horse. Today six deer were caught, which were supplied to the troops.
During the night, which we spent on the arroyo San José, it rained on
us. No other incident.

_26th day._ Early this morning soldiers Gabriel Espinoza and José
Arellanes were sick but those who were ill yesterday had recovered.
Three deer were taken. At about seven o'clock in the evening the party
arrived with the provisions. There was a fanega [of pinole] and it was
distributed among the troops. Butron reported that he followed the
tracks of the horses as far as the summit [of the coast range].

At about eight o'clock in the evening, soldier Joaquin Juarez being
the sentinel in the camp and Arroyo corporal of the guard, one of the
heathen Indian prisoners broke the rope with which he was tied and ran
away. Corporal [_sic_] Juarez yelled that the prisoner had escaped. The
troops converged upon the spot, a little tule swamp opposite us, but
were not able to find him. For this offense the corporal and the soldier
were placed under arrest among the horses until further orders. No other
incident.

_27th day._ It was decided to attack the village of Malim. Leaving
fifteen soldiers, two corporals, and ten cowboys with the horses we set
out in the rain at one o'clock in the afternoon. We pursued a northerly
course. Arriving at the San Joaquin River we entered the village
Cheneche and found it without inhabitants. We kept on down the river
and at about three leagues we came upon foot tracks at the edge of a
thicket. A corporal with four soldiers went to examine the place and in
the middle [of the thicket] they found a blind old man and an old woman.
They [the soldiers] returned to report and were ordered to bring them
[the Indians] back for questioning; but they could not find the latter.
Here we passed the night with considerable discomfort on account of the
rain which had fallen on us during the afternoon. No other news.

_28th day._ The morning of this day we continued in the same direction.
At about half a league we came upon the village of Cheneches,[12] where
two old women were found. It was clear that the other inhabitants had
gone on ahead of us, slipping into the thickets and swamps. In any case,
we were able to find no one. After about two leagues we arrived at the
junction of Mariposa Creek and the river. The guide whom we took with
us, who was from that village, had previously told us that he was
familiar with the village of Malim, but when he got there he said he did
not know where it was; but he did know that this was his country and we
were hunting for his village. I ordered him given ten lashes. While
this was being done, the soldiers spied some heathen who were coming
up Mariposa Creek. By scattering out in various directions the troops
succeeded in catching two Christians from Santa Cruz and three heathen.
The latter were to take us to the village but previously we encountered
one of their little ranchos. The inhabitants all fled to the swamps
without our being able to seize a single one. The village was located
at a distance of three leagues west. However, after we had passed it by
about a quarter of a league, they [the Indians] said it was behind us.
On arriving [at the village] we found by our trail that we had missed it
by no more than a gunshot. From this it was obvious that the captives
had acted with malice, giving opportunity to the others [their
countrymen] to escape. Here two horses and a very few tracks were
discovered. (According to the signs observed this village does not have
many horses, yet the region where it is known that the heathen have done
terrible damage is from Tappee, inclusive, to Cheneches. We found in
those places more than 500 dead animals.)[13] From here we retired to
Arroyo de Santa Rita where Corporal Juarez was sent with six soldiers
to join the other troops who were escorting the horses and proceed
the following day to San Luis Gonzaga.[14] Here it rained. No other
incident.

_29th day._ We set out for San Luis Gonzaga, arriving about two o'clock
in the afternoon. Corporal Juarez got there about five o'clock, having
killed and left behind fourteen worn-out horses from among those picked
up in the swamps. The sick soldiers continued to recover. No other news.

_30th day._ We set out from this place at about six o'clock in the
morning and arrived at Ausaymas at about five in the afternoon, leaving
in the vicinity seventy-eight used-up animals. Most of these had been
recovered from the Tulares and were killed. The others were brought to
this place with some difficulty at eight o'clock in the evening. Nothing
else of importance occurred.

_1st day of December._ We stayed in the place previously mentioned in
order to rest the horses. Nothing else of importance.

_2nd day._ We arrived at Mission San Juan with ten soldiers ill with
stomach ailments. No other news.

_3rd day._ By morning the soldiers had recovered and we continued our
march to the Presidio, taking nine prisoners and sending the soldiers of
the guard to their respective garrisons. One soldier accompanied Father
Escude to his mission and another accompanied Father Cabot.

  Mission San Juan Bautista,                      Dolores Pico
  3 December 1815                                     (rubric)

FATHER MARTINEZ' EXPEDITION

The following five documents, all in the Bancroft Library, show clearly
the confusion in the valley following the repeated expeditions of the
preceding years, particularly those of 1815. The first, second, and
third concern the Martinez sortie into the southern valley and include
in full the original account by Father Martinez and the drastic
criticism of his behavior by Father Cabot. The reader may form his
own opinion with respect to the merits of the controversy.

The last two excerpts relate to minor and otherwise unrecorded
incidents.

_Father Martinez' Report_

  _Fr. Luís Antonio Martinez' to Prefect Sarria_
  San Luis Obispo, May 29, 1816
  (Alexander S. Taylor Papers. Archbishop's Office,
  San Francisco. Doc. 489.)

My venerated Prelate and Sir:

I have just arrived from an ecclesiastical journey with good fortune,
although not so much as I was expecting. The people through whose lands
I have gone are not yet capable of reason, and prefer their state of
misery to all the benefits available to them far from their rude and
wretched dwellings.

In all the villages I saw I gave something to eat to everyone who
presented himself; one, two, or even three ladles full of atole. I gave
them presents. I treated them with as much loving-kindness as I could so
as to mould them to my ultimate purpose, which was simply their own best
interest.

The names of the villages are:[15] Lucluc, 28 leagues distant from the
mission, at the edge of the plain; from here I went to Thuohuala, about
9 leagues; from here to Gelecto, about 9; from here to Lihuahilame,
about 19; and from there to Quihuame, about 7. At this point we could
not cross a big river (the source of which we did not see) which runs
from north to south, and south to north. It makes a bend in the plain
some 7 leagues from Telame. Its speed and the dense brush along its
banks prevented our passage. It fills the lakes of Buenavista, of
Gelecto, and of Thuohuala. In all our trip we did not see a good tree,
nor wood enough to cook a meal, nor a stone, nor even grass enough for
the horses, more than bunch grass, or what grows in the swamps. This
big river ends as such in Buenavista Lake or loses itself in ponds and
swamps. Along all the border of the plain [i.e., along the river] there
is a great meadow a league wide, very heavily overgrown with brush.
However, the lands through which the river runs are pure sand, without
grass and utterly useless for any good purpose.

In the first village, Lucluc, we found about fifty Indians with their
women and children. In this place they offered to bring me a small boy,
after much begging and persuasion, and after I had given his parents
two blankets, some ornaments, meat, etc. In the night the Indians sent
a message for the following day, and in the morning we met the Indian
Gabriel, as he was called by the soldiers, for he had gone with them
on all the previous expeditions. He, with six other heathen Indians,
accompanied us to the village of Thuohuala, which we found deserted
except for one old woman on a mat, and a paralytic, whom they could
not carry into the swamps. I was here three days, sending my Indians
on sorties through the tule swamps. They brought me back about ten
families, together with a sick man. The latter I ordered to be taken by
my Indians to his house, covered with a wrap. I gave the others atole,
making it clear that they should have no fear, that my trip was only for
the purpose of visiting them and offering them the facilities of San
Luís Mission together with the knowledge of the True God, without which
no one can live well or enjoy any good fortune. I told them they should
have no fear.

With my arguments I was able to acquire some seventy men, all warriors,
but noticed that those whom I had taken out of the swamp during the
night had gone elsewhere. Of the seventy whom I gathered with the help
of the Indian Gabriel, no one ran away again. They ate and even slept
with us in our camp. I knew where the women and the others were and I
expressed the displeasure caused by seeing a friendly village run away
from us. They unanimously maintained that a certain Chape and other old
men were to blame for having spread the rumor that we wanted to kill
them all. Nevertheless he himself [i.e., Chape] gave me and the corporal
a little basket and we gave him some fish. During the time I was there,
I gave him, in addition to the food, some beads. After this transaction
I decided to continue my journey toward the village of Gelecto, where
we found no trace of people except the cemetery, because they had
destroyed the village in their wars. After spending the night here I
went on to Telamni. This consumed the whole day (without anyone having
a meal). Furthermore I had to endure showers falling on my back four
times during this period.

Since we did not try to hide ourselves, the train of horses stirred up a
great dust visible for several leagues. As soon as I arrived at Telamni,
they observed us from Lihuahilami the Great. At that place there had
been a big riot the day previously, as a result of which some eight men
had been killed, among them the grandson of Quipagueces. For this reason
they were very much worried for fear the father would come to avenge the
murders. The chief sent me a message to inform me of this occurrence and
I answered that he should not be concerned for I did not come to do harm
to anyone nor [would I] permit anyone else to hurt them. I wanted only
to see them and offer them the services of the mission. This chief had
me summoned to request that I place the camp close to his village, which
would contain about three hundred married men. The next day I went into
it and everyone received us with pleasure. I talked to them of religious
matters and they said to me that [illegible][16] they were made
Christians, but that it had to be there. Three of them who wanted to
go with me presented themselves and they started out very happy. When
we reached the village of Quihuama, the chief, who already knew I was
coming, had hidden the people in the brush. While I was dismounting, he
had caused them to drop their clothing and flee to the thickets. In
consequence I was not able to speak to anyone.

I was now about six leagues from Telamé and was hemmed in by a big
river, which afforded no transit anywhere. It runs along the northern
side of the valley and forms a lake and swamps where the plain obstructs
its flow. I decided to turn back, for to persist in going on to Telamé
would mean a long detour. So I went back, accomplishing the operation
without any event worth mentioning, as far as the village of our friends
at Thuohuala, called, in the language of San Miguel, Hubal. There we
found that the village had moved. Since on my first visit I had departed
on such good terms with these people, I was the more astonished at their
fickleness. I decided to send some Indians to let them know I was there
and that I would like to see them all together. They received these poor
fellows with arrows and, if the latter had not carried with them their
leather shields to defend themselves, not a one would have got back to
the camp (they were below Hubal at a village called Pusas). They quickly
sent word to me at the camp. The corporal and six men went out but found
no one there. My Indians did not use weapons against anyone and made no
more resistance than to seize arrows and take bows out of the hands of
those who were offending. They took three prisoners, two women and a
man, who, according to the story, were all yelling "Kill the Playanos!"
[Playanos, people from the coast.] The next day the village was burned
and everything in it destroyed because the people in it had taken up
arms against those who had treated them well. One Indian was slightly
wounded in the head; two horses were hit by arrows, one rather
seriously, and another stolen with the saddle, together with all those
from which the riders had dismounted in order to deliver my message.[17]
This village deserves severe punishment.

In all the land we have covered there is neither good water to drink nor
stones nor firewood, even enough to cook a meal, except in the river
bottom. The latter is overgrown with cottonwoods and willows but there
is no land fit for sowing crops because everywhere is sand.

The foregoing, my respected Prelate, is the information I have to give
you concerning my journey. I cannot forget that in all the time I was
away there was nothing but a miserable supper at night and chocolate in
the morning, that in the day I was weak and tired with traveling and in
the night, no matter what protection I used, I was soaking wet till
after my prayers. Nevertheless, may this all be for the greater honor
and glory of God, our Lord, who, with all these labors ... [illegible]
... arrived at San Luis....

May your health..., etc.

  This is a copy                            Fr. L. de Martinez

_Father Cabot's Report_

  _Fr. Juan Cabot to Prefect_
  San Miguel, June 1, 1816
  (Archbishop's Arch., III (1): 213-216)

    He says[18] that when Father Luís [Martinez] was returning from the
    village of Bubas he encountered six vaqueros whom he [i.e., Cabot]
    was sending to the village mentioned to locate the cattle which had
    reached there and to visit the heathen Indians. The said Father
    [Martinez] told them to go back, for otherwise the Indians would
    kill them. The vaqueros however kept on their way for "he who fears
    nothing, owes nothing" [_el que nada teme, nada debe_]. They were
    very well received and slept among them [the Indians] without
    trouble. While [they were] there the Indians related to them that
    the vaqueros of San Luís [i.e., those accompanying the Martinez
    party] prior to arriving at the village, suddenly broke out in
    violence along the edge of the tule swamps. They tried to stop the
    people from escaping but, since that was not possible, they dragged
    out all they could with lassos and ropes and drove them to the
    village. In terror, many people, principally women and children,
    tried to jump into the water. These were then held back with clubs
    and the infants were thrown either into the water or onto the
    ground. One youth they tied up and whipped and he still has the
    wounds on his back. In spite of this the Indians undertook no
    reprisals. Then one of them escaped into the swamp, whereupon he
    was followed on foot and on horseback in an attempt to catch him.

    At this the chief could no longer keep in check the anger of the
    Indians and they began to shoot arrows at those from San Luís, not
    with the object of killing them but to make them retreat. In this
    they succeeded, and the others began a wild flight, some on horses,
    some on foot, even to one who "pulled off his pants so he could run
    faster." They left their horses and harnesses. They [the villagers]
    did not want to kill anyone. A prisoner whom they captured was set
    free with the statement: "Go with your comrades for we do not want
    to kill you." Afterward they carried out of the swamp all the
    material they had captured so that the other group could pick it up
    when they returned, as indeed they did the following day. There were
    lost only two horses, one shield, a hat, spurs, reins, and a pair of
    trousers; the latter was found after the troops had gone. All these
    items were turned over to the vaqueros [of Father Cabot] so that
    they might deliver them to the people of San Luís. Nevertheless the
    Indians said that the troops had burned their village, scattered
    their grain, and smashed their jars and grinding stones. On account
    of all this they were in a state of the greatest misery and fear
    lest the troops come back and kill them. Unless they were told what
    to do within a week, they would have to leave their village to go
    and die at the hands of other wild Indians.

    He [Father Cabot] states that tomorrow he is going to send an
    alcalde to them to tell them not to be afraid and to trust the pious
    efforts of the Governor. He thinks those heathen are not at all to
    blame, judging by the docility, hospitality, kindness, and affection
    with which they treat the white men. His mission converts visit them
    without any harm and they also are accustomed to go to the mission,
    where he is then successful in baptizing some of them. The heathen
    say that if a mission were to be established for them, in the Tulare
    Valley, not only they but also many of their neighbors would have
    themselves made Christians. Finally, if the wild Indians shot
    arrows, it was in the exercise of their rights, for they were
    defending themselves against the annoyances perpetrated upon them.
    He [Father Cabot] believes that unless the Governor "is made
    acquainted with the truth, he may order them chastised, and for
    that very reason he begs that the matter be brought speedily to
    his attention."

_Father Martinez' Rebuttal_

  _Fr. Luís Antonio Martinez to the Governor_
  San Luis Obispo, June 10, 1816
  (Archbishop's Archive, III (1): 218-220)

This is an answer to the charges raised by Father Juan Cabot concerning
the affair at Bubal. There are no new facts introduced, merely a polemic
against his unjust accusers and a reiteration that he proceeded
correctly and that the heathen were full of malice.

MINOR SORTIES

  _Fr. Antonio Jaime to Governor Sola_
  La Soledad, March 30, 1816
  (Archbishop's Archive, III (1): 190-191)

    ... telling him that last night Regidor Socio arrived from the
    Tulare Valley.[19] He brought back the missing Christians with the
    exception of three women and their husbands, one because she had
    just given birth to a child and the other two because their children
    were sick. Three others are still missing, named Marcos, Pastor, and
    Justo. These are at the village of Cuonam where there are numerous
    horses run off by Sebero and Pedro Pablo from the herd of San Juan.
    These same individuals in the night ran off twenty horses of the
    herd recovered by Socio and the _Capilar_ Tapé. Three _capilares_
    arrived, one Tapé of the village Cutuchu, another Thizac of Taché,
    and the other Qucurlac of Culache.[20] The heathen are in all
    thirty-three. The _capilares_ want to go on to Monterey with the
    heathen Indians to talk to the Governor.

    After Easter the latter will return with them. They brought back
    ten horses lost on the expedition and turned them over to Corporal
    Sebastian.

  _Fr. Marcelino Marquinez to Governor Sola_
  Santa Cruz, December 13, 1816
  (Archbishop's Archive, III (1): 264-265)

    ... notifying him [the Governor] of the pleasure he had, yesterday
    and day before yesterday, because some forty sons of his mission
    who had run away returned. They are natives of the villages of
    Malime,[21] Chaneh, and Lucham. With them came others, heathen
    (men and women) of Malime. That village has now been abandoned
    permanently, for they have "left neither old men nor old women, nor
    blind, nor deaf, nor dogs," nor is there anything to cause them to
    return. Some of them went to the village of Tasnil looking for a
    Christian boy whose relatives had previously taken him there. The
    searchers were told that he was in a village farther on. There now
    began a lively battle in which the Christians killed four heathen
    and took away from them two horses, one from Rancho Carmel and one
    from the town.

    The pleasure of Father Jaime is great but his happiness has not been
    complete because there are still missing many Christians from the
    village of Notoalh who have withdrawn far into the mountains,
    fearing a surprise attack by the troops, among whom is Egidio,
    the accomplice of Chivero....

EXPEDITION TO THE DELTA, 1817

There follow herewith the two documents relating to the joint expedition
to the delta in 1817. This was the final purely exploratory effort in
the area. By 1820 most of the channels and landmarks were well known and
river navigation offered few obstacles. By this time the Indians, except
those along the eastern margin from Sacramento to Stockton, had been
converted or driven out and little remained to interest the white man.

_Father Narciso Duran's Diary. 1817_

This manuscript of six pages is entitled "Diario de la expedición de
reconocimiento hecha ... en los ... ríos del Sacramento y San Joaquin."
It is the diary of exploration of the delta region by Fr. Narciso Duran
and Lieutenant Luís Argüello. The two explorers started out together but
later separated and still later reunited. Each kept an account, this one
being that of Father Narciso. It should be studied in conjunction with
that of Lieutenant Argüello. There are many points of disagreement which
cannot be discussed in detail.

It is to be noted that Father Fray Ramón Abella accompanied Father Duran
on this expedition.

Diary of the expedition of reconnaissance made to the rivers Sacramento
and San Joaquin.

_Viva Jesus._

Diary of the expedition of exploration made in the month of May of 1817
by the Commandant of the Royal Presidio of our Father San Francisco,
Lieutenant Don Luís Argüello, with his launch San Rafael, alias "The
Fine One," and by the Fathers Fray Ramón Abella, minister of the Mission
of Our Father of San Francisco, and Fray Narciso Duran, minister of San
José, with the launch named San José, alias "The Fisherman," in the only
two rivers which enter the Port of Our Father San Francisco, called the
Sacramento and the San Joaquin.

_13th day of May._ We left the beach at the Presidio at ten o'clock in
the morning of this day with a fresh wind, which lasted until we had
crossed the entrance of the port. By rowing we arrived at twelve o'clock
at the big island of Los Angeles [Angel Island], where we ate lunch. At
five o'clock in the afternoon we left the island, and having passed
Point San Pablo, which is on the side of the mainland of San José, we
stopped at eight o'clock in the evening, having gone in the entire day
six leagues toward the northeast.

_14th day._ We set out at six o'clock in the morning, and with a light
wind we arrived at noon at the end of the strait of the Chupcanes [i.e.,
Carquinez Strait]. The village of this name is Christian, part at San
José, part at San Francisco. It is fourteen leagues distant from the
latter and seventeen leagues north-northeast of the former.

After lunch we set out with a fresh wind, which became strong by the
middle of the afternoon, in the direction of the Ompines toward the
east. In this area one recognizes the mouths of the only two rivers
which flow through this strait to the Port: one comes from the north
and northeast and is called the Sacramento, the other from the east
and southeast and is called the San Joaquin. I say they are the only
two rivers, for it seems that the many openings and branches which form
so many islands of brush and tulares, as well also as some other rivers
which are found here, all come to discharge their water into the two
rivers mentioned. Thus although the western slopes of the Sierra Nevada
form certain rivers, as has been stated, nevertheless all of them lose
their identity and are lost in the two principal rivers just described.

In the meantime, night having approached and the boat of the Commandant
having gone ahead, he stopped on the mainland of San José at the mouth
of the San Joaquin. We two Fathers in the other boat followed the route
agreed upon, and took the mouth of the Sacramento so as to reach the
opposite shore in the land of the Ompines. However, although we passed
near the other boat and saw their fire, it was not possible to go back
on account of the high wind. We landed on an island of tule which was
flooded when the tide rose and had to take refuge in a bramble patch to
protect ourselves against the water until it went down. We spent a very
difficult night, although cheerfully, and a no better one was passed by
the Commandant, for, although with us it was water without fire, with
him it was wind without shelter.

All this day we went twelve leagues northeast and east.

_15th day._ The storm lasted all night. At five o'clock in the morning
the Commandant arrived to join us. He got here with the main mast broken
but, the Lord be thanked, without greater misfortune. It seems almost
a miracle that when it fell it did not break someone's head or kill
someone. We set out soon to search for a place suitable for saying Mass,
for this was the day of the Ascension. Having gone five or six leagues
up the Sacramento ahead of the same wind, we landed on dry land, where
Mass was said. But because this place was very exposed and cold we set
forth after lunch, in the middle of the afternoon, and arrived by dark
at the end of the hills of the Ompines, the latter serving us as a
shelter from the storm.[22] This place is called "Los Ciervos." About a
league before getting there the launch San José struck a submerged log,
which scared us. However, on later examination, no damage was found,
thank God! We went in this day eight leagues east and northeast.[23]

_16th day._ The storm from the northwest continued all night and at dawn
left the sky covered with heavy clouds and almost raining. We left under
a light breeze at eight o'clock in the morning, going northeast. At the
end of a league we came to an opening to the starboard, which led to the
east. This is said to be a bend in the main river. If that were true,
then we would know that this river is the one which encircles the Island
of the Quenemsias. We followed a branch which runs toward the north
and northwest, with the intention of investigating the village of the
Chucumnes. At the end of another league we encountered another opening,
or arm, to port, which at first seemed to us to lead to the village
mentioned. Nevertheless we left this opening and continued along the
branch we had been following. We saw during this morning some boats with
people and some houses empty of people, because at the noise of the
launches they cleared out. At six leagues we reached another opening
to the starboard, running northeast. Either the latter or the one
previously mentioned is that which forms the main Sacramento River. We
passed by the latter and kept along the same one we had been navigating.
The whole river is made a great grove by the number and luxuriance
of the trees, although only with difficulty can one get to shore.
Everything is flooded owing to the rise in the rivers caused by the
melting of the snow pack [in the mountains]. We stopped at six o'clock
in the afternoon, having rowed eight leagues to the north, northeast,
and occasionally northwest.[24]

_17th day._ All night the wind blew hard. We set out at six o'clock
in the morning. After one league we came upon the opening which we
passed yesterday on our left hand. A little while afterward we found
the village of the Chucumnes, although it was deserted. We counted
35 houses, some 20, 40, or 50 paces in circumference, a fact which
indicates a large number of people. We called to the heathen but no one
appeared. This village is in a place where the river subdivides into
three other branches. One goes to the south, which is the one I say we
passed yesterday on the left, another goes to the west but we do not
know where it ends, although it is supposed that, making a turn to the
southwest, it goes to join the southerly branch. The other goes north.

Having eaten we started again at two o'clock in the afternoon and took
the branch to the north. The great meadow of yesterday still continues
and both banks are flooded. At six o'clock we stopped opposite a slough
which is said to lead to the village of the Ylamnes. We went during the
entire day no more than four leagues, because the river flows with a
strong current. The direction today has been northwest, north, and
northeast.[25]

_18th day._ After having said Mass, since it was Sunday, we set out in
the same direction upstream, northeast. At the end of a league (which
cost us much labor to cover on account of the great force of the
current) we entered the main Sacramento River which runs from north
to south. It is the same one we left on the 6th to the right hand, or
starboard, although I cannot decide which of the two channels it was,
whether the first or the last. We kept on up the river, which is very
wide and of great depth, and at half a league we stopped to eat. Hardly
had we finished eating when suddenly our people became very much
excited, saying that the heathen Indians were coming to annoy us. But
no one appeared. We started out again at two o'clock in the afternoon.
After going a league we found an opening to the right which makes a turn
and joins the river again two leagues upstream.[26] About five o'clock
we descried the well-known Sierra Nevada to the northeast through a
clearing in the trees which border the river. The whiteness of the
mountains seemed to everyone to be snow, although the range contains
also (as is said) a kind of white rock which resembles the latter [i.e.,
snow]. We kept on a little farther up and stopped at sunset, having gone
in the day some five leagues northeast, north, and northwest.[27]

_19th day._ We started at seven o'clock in the morning and continued
upstream. After going one league we came upon a village called Chuppumne
on the east bank, the inhabitants of which fled at the sound of the
boats, leaving only two old women more than sixty years old. After
catechizing these, I baptized them because it seemed to us that they
were likely to die before Divine Providence could provide another
occasion upon which they might be baptized in a mission. We left this
village at ten o'clock and stopped to eat at noon. We started out again
at two o'clock in the afternoon and in the distance saw two villages
with people and another, for some time abandoned and covered with
water. The river is very high and so flooded on both sides that one
can scarcely get ashore. We stopped at sunset having during the day
traveled ten leagues north and northwest.[28]

_20th day._ We started up the river at six o'clock in the morning with
the intention of finding an open spot where a cross might be set up, and
where we might cease our ascent of the river, turn around, and retreat
downstream. After three leagues, when the launches were close to the
western shore, some rafts were noticed in a near-by tule swamp. On going
to investigate these some [of our Indian] converts came upon a village
of heathen, who fell upon them with weapons and with the ferocious
screams to which they are accustomed. Quickly the Commandant went with
the troops and the other converts to talk to them. They were pacified
and explained themselves, saying that they had taken up arms thinking
that we were enemies. They presented us with _torous_, which is a kind
of roasted soap root, and came in peace, telling us that a little higher
up was their village and that there they would wait for us in order to
give us fish. We had our meal and then set out, going a league higher
up. But we did not encounter or see a village or a heathen Indian except
a poor old man, sleeping under a tree, who had not yet heard our boats.
We gave him some pinole and sent him on his way. Seeing that no one
was coming, we made a cross on an oak tree. The cross having been
consecrated and worshiped by our company, served to mark the limit of
our upward journey. At this place it appears to be possible to approach
by land in the dry season, because although in the immediate vicinity
tules are to be seen, nevertheless probably everything is dry by October
for there is no water other than the overflow from the river. It is
therefore to be supposed that from here on it is better to follow the
course of the river by land than by water. In this manner the immense
expanse of land may be explored which extends to the end of the Sierra
Nevada and which likely is inhabited by innumerable heathen. Once the
entrance to the Sierra is discovered, which the end seems to offer as a
probability, it would be possible to test the truth of the story which
the Indians have told for many years that on the other side of the
Sierra Nevada there are people like our soldiers. We have never been
able to decide definitely whether they are Spaniards from New Mexico,
Englishmen from the Columbia, or Russians from Bodega.

From here we could make out at about ten leagues northwest the very high
hill called Jesus Maria by the troops who have passed near its slopes.
It is entirely covered with snow.[29] It is said that near by flows a
large river of the same name which enters the Sacramento River, and it
is to be suspected that it is a branch of the Columbia. This I heard
from some soldier, and it may be true. We went upstream today four
leagues north and northwest.

At four o'clock in the afternoon we began to descend, and at sunset we
stopped on the west bank opposite the place where we stopped on the
18th, having gone fourteen leagues in three or four hours on account
of the great force of the current. The direction is south and
southeast.[30]

_21st day._ We set out at seven o'clock in the morning and in a little
while encountered on the right hand the slough through which on the 18th
we entered the main river. Leaving the latter and following the former
[i.e., the main river, to the left], after one league we came to a
rancheria called that of the Ochejamnes, which had forty houses but no
people. A little while thereafter we passed the head of the Island of
the Quenemsias.[31] Here we left the main Sacramento River, which runs
to the southwest, on the right hand and took a channel to the southeast
at the entrance to which in the year ... the heathen Indians murdered
Julio, the alcalde of San José. The launches got through with effort on
account of the many logs in the channel. At six leagues we came upon
the village of the Guaypens, with a few people, where we baptized seven
souls, all aged, invalids, or children. Here we had lunch and, having
started again at three o'clock in the afternoon, we stopped at the place
called "Las Cruces." It was our intention on the next day to reach the
San Joaquin River and ascend it as far as the village of the Passasimas.
We went in all today fifteen leagues, south and southeast.[32]

_22nd day._ We set out at seven o'clock in the morning and, shortly
after reaching the end of the branch, or slough, in which we were
traveling yesterday, we found another coming in from the northeast on
the left side. We passed this and followed south and southeast through
a very broad channel which leads to the San Joaquin River. Here the
launches separated. That of the Commandant directed its way to the west
and northwest in order to reconnoitre two or three islands in which are
living hidden some fugitives from San José. We with the other launch,
took a south and southeasterly direction, ascending the San Joaquin
River, with the intention of scouting the villages of the tule swamps.
At four o'clock we halted in a very muddy spot on account of the extreme
heat, which was exhausting the oarsmen. We started out again at six
o'clock with the idea of traveling all night.

_23rd day._ We went all night, except for a while during which we
stopped in the boat itself, and at eight o'clock [in the morning] we
arrived near the village of the Passasimas. During the night we passed
on our right the village of the Nototemnes, who are already Christians
in San José and who were living almost in the middle of the tule swamps.
On the left hand we passed the Tauquimnes and Yatchicomnes and on the
same side live the Passasimas previously mentioned. A little to the
northeast of these are the Mokelumnes. Some of the Passasimas came out
to greet us in peace. This is not strange because they have been many
times in the mission [San José] and several of them have been baptized.
After breakfast we went on foot to visit some of their houses, where
I baptized four heathen sixty or seventy years of age. Then, having
commended them to God and having pointed out the necessity that they
consider being made Christians, we returned to the boat, accompanied by
the Indians. Here they told us again the story of how, on the other side
of the Sierra Nevada (from which we were perhaps ten leagues distant)
there were white men. But no definite conclusions could be reached, as
was set forth on May 20.

At four o'clock in the afternoon we embarked, returning by the same way
we had come. In a short distance 113 heathen Indians were waiting for
us, Yatchicomnes and Mokelumnes. Half of them were painted and armed as
for war. We approached, and after we had talked to them they put down
their weapons and begged for peace. These heathen live mostly on solid
ground and they could be visited on horseback if this became necessary.
They penetrate to the slopes of the Sierra Nevada and state that the
whiteness one sees is rock and not snow. However, it is most probable
that the Sierra has both snow and white rock which resembles it. At
six o'clock we bade them farewell, giving them some wheat, etc. They
promised us that they would come and make a visit to the mission. During
yesterday and the previous night we must have covered eleven or twelve
leagues toward the south and southeast. We traveled hard all night,
going north and northwest.[33]

_24th day._ At dawn we found ourselves on approximately the same
parallel as that where we were at the start of the trip of the 22nd. At
eight o'clock we arrived at the place called "Los Meganos"[34] opposite
the Julpunes. Here we ate breakfast. At noon we started out to meet the
Commandant in the Strait of the Chupcanes [Carquinez Strait], which we
reached at six o'clock in the afternoon. There we met the gentleman
mentioned, he having got there in the morning. The region traversed
this afternoon is the mouth of the San Joaquin, and it must be crossed
at high tide because it contains a shoal on which boats run aground.
The difference noticed between the Sacramento River and the San Joaquin
is that the latter carries a smaller volume of water, although in some
places it is wider. All that we have passed is nothing but pure tule
swamp, without a tree under which the wanderer will find shade or
a stick of wood with which to warm himself. On the other hand, the
Sacramento, when it is not flooded, has dry land on both banks, with
groves of trees as before described, and seems to carry a greater
volume of water. We covered during the preceding night and during
the day twenty leagues north, northwest, and west.

_25th day._ At dawn of this day of the Pentecost Mass was sung and
thereafter again the Praefacio so that during the next two days Mass
should not be lacking. We set out at nine o'clock with a headwind. It
was quite hard navigating through the whole strait, which will be about
two leagues long and one half, more or less, wide. After leaving the
strait the sea was fair and at three o'clock in the afternoon we arrived
at a place called Olegario Point near Angel Island. Here we stopped
after having traveled some ten leagues toward the southwest.

_26th day._ At two o'clock in the morning, before the tide had finished
going out, we passed the narrow entrance of the harbor, arriving almost
by dawn at the beach of the Presidio. After having said Mass at the
latter place we returned to the Mission of Our Father San Francisco with
all good fortune, thanks to the Lord, to whom be the Glory forever and
ever, Amen.

                                             Fr. Narciso Duran
                                                      (rubric)

_Luís Argüello's Report_

The second report of the expedition to the delta is a document whose
title page states that it is a letter to the Governor, Don Pablo Vicente
de Sola, and "incorporates" a diary of the expedition, which was "in
company with Frays Narciso Duran and Ramón Abella." The account is
signed by Luís Antonio Argüello and was undoubtedly written by him. The
style indicates that the letter incorporates a revision or abstract of
Argüello's diary rather than an actual copy of it (see the introduction
to the letter).

The existence of two accounts of the same expedition is unusual--indeed,
unique. Despite personal controversies the two narratives complement
each other. Each brings out detail omitted by the other.

  _Luís Antonio Argüello to Governor Pablo Vicente de Sola_
  San Francisco, May 26, 1817

Consequent upon the orders which I received officially from you on April
11, ultimo, I accompanied the Reverend Father Fray Narciso Duran on the
expedition which at the request of the said Reverend Father Duran you
authorized, and which was carried out. His diary, although I have
abstracted it in brief form so that you may take into consideration all
the distance we have covered, you will nevertheless use, as appears most
convenient to you for the purposes you have in mind. We explored these,
and other lands which up till the present have been considered unknown,
swarming with heathen who are overwhelmed with error and who are without
the least knowledge of God, who has placed us under the conquering
banner of the most Catholic and pious monarch of all those who rule
in our universe, our dearly beloved sovereign and Lord, Ferdinand the
Seventh. This is with the sole object of propagating our holy religion
and for which pious purpose I am ready to sacrifice my comfort and my
life and all the power of my mind.

With regard to this expedition which has just been completed,
although you intended, as I understood according to the content of
your eminent official letter, that outstanding results were to be
expected, nevertheless in my opinion although the outcome was in no way
unfavorable, neither was it of much value. Despite the fact that I had
wished at least to make a careful survey and compile a detailed account
I found myself completely prevented from accomplishing this. The reason
was that I soon saw myself unable to direct my own going and coming. In
consequence, since I was not able to operate according to my own wishes
so as to give Your Excellency an exact account of all those lands and
heathen tribes, I declined to formulate a document which could at any
time be protested as defective for lack of exact and fully detailed
examination of the country. I did nothing else but go where the Reverend
Father Fray Narciso Duran wanted to go, and since my orders specified
only that I should accompany him it seemed to me, in order to maintain
harmonious relations, that I had to follow the desires of the Reverend
Father mentioned. I felt that this was your intention and wish, for the
expedition was organized upon the request of the said Reverend Father
Duran. Thus, although I curbed my propensity to explore, it seemed to me
proper to compose a day-by-day account, of which I make an exact
copy.[35]

We started out, then, on the 13th day of the present month, between
eleven and twelve o'clock in the morning and traveled to the north for
twenty-one miles. We anchored for the night at Point San Pablo at eight
o'clock. After an hour the launch "Josefina" of our convoy joined us,
carrying the Reverend Fathers Fray Ramón Abella and Fray Narciso Duran.

The following day, the 14th, we set sail at six o'clock in the morning
to the north and after going through Carquinez Strait we pointed east,
one quarter northeast. The wind freshened considerably as the sun went
down and the launch "Josefina" of our convoy fell behind so that it
became necessary for me to shorten sail. Since even this did not permit
them to catch up, we had to anchor at the strait which separates the
bays of Suisun and of the Ompines and wait until the launch "Josefina"
came up much later. As soon as it joined us we set out again. I ordered
sail shortened as much as I could, but the wind freshened considerably
so that soon the other launch fell behind again. Our launch suddenly ran
aground on a shoal half a mile distant from the mainland on the side of
Mission San José. However, we started again soon and by sounding we came
upon the channel, which had sufficient water and which followed closely
the same shore. While engaged in this operation, we were joined again by
the "Josefina" which, according to the signs they made, had been heading
toward the shore. We followed along the shore and by dark we saw that
the launch "San José" had again fallen far behind. The night fell and
the wind was quite strong, with consequently considerable swell. I held
closer to the shore in order to search for some kind of shelter. This
we found and anchored at half-past eight in the evening. Immediately I
caused signals to be made to the other launch so that it might join us
but without success. So, without much regard to comfort, I maintained my
position until three o'clock in the morning of the following day. In
this day we traveled sixty miles.[36]

At three o'clock in the morning of the 15th, as I have said, in spite of
the strong wind I made arrangements to start out in search of the launch
"San José" and, after we had traveled toward the north with a quite
strong southwesterly gale and in a heavy sea, a gust of wind came so
strong that it broke off the mainmast. It carried the sail and all the
gear into the water. At the same time the sheets of the foremast were
lost. However, by a sharp maneuver we made fast the sheets of the
foremast and recovered the mainsail, which had gone into the water with
a piece of the mast. We continued navigating with the foremast alone
toward the north. There was no other misfortune than that just described
of a broken mainmast, and [the loss of] the hat of a soldier which in
the flurry fell into the water and could not be recovered on account of
the high wind and waves.

At six o'clock in the morning we caught sight of the launch "San José,"
which had taken shelter at a very swampy island full of water. Half an
hour after we descried them we joined them and found the Reverend
Fathers and the soldiers who were embarked with them. They were in a
very sad and pitiful situation for all night they had been unable to
find a hand's breadth of land on which to lie down. After they had
related the miseries and fatigues of the preceding night, both Fathers
transferred to my boat. We then turned northeast, close to the coast of
the Ompines, in search of another and better shelter where we might
anchor and land in order to say Mass. The wind did not abate its fury
and in this fashion we sailed eighteen miles. Having taken an entrance
to the main Sacramento River, we stopped in the land of the Ompines at
ten-thirty in the morning and constructed a chapel, where Mass was sung
in all solemnity. Reverend Father Fray Ramón Abella celebrated Mass and
Reverend Father Fray Narciso Duran officiated with appropriate music,
the troops all being under arms.

At half-past five in the afternoon of this day we embarked, going toward
the north, with a few turns to the northeast, according to the bends
of the river. We may have traveled eleven miles when we anchored at
half-past eight at the point where the land of the Ompines ends, having
skirted its shore all day.[37]

At seven o'clock in the morning of the 16th we set forth up the river
always in a northerly direction with a few turns east-northeast and
northwest. At five miles we passed a mouth, or arm, of the river which
came from the northeast and joined that along which we were traveling,
which runs north and south. Three miles farther on we descried some
rafts of Indians, who immediately concealed themselves in the bushes
along the riverbank. Right away we attacked them and jumped ashore
to see if we could catch some, but the underbrush hindered us, for
everything is covered with water and we could not follow them. They
threw away all their equipment and belongings, but none of it was of
value. We soon reëmbarked and followed upstream. At two miles we saw
another river, which united with that which we were pursuing and which
came from the northwest. We wanted to enter and explore it, but the
Reverend Fathers did not wish to do this, so we continued following the
same stream and halted at six o'clock in the afternoon. In the entire
day we navigated fifteen miles without incident.

At six-thirty in the morning of the 17th we started up the river and at
three miles we found an opening which separated from the river we were
following and ran to the northwest. Suddenly we came upon a village on
the west bank of the river. We thought it might contain some people
and with great care we went ashore. However, we found it empty of its
inhabitants, for all without doubt had fled as soon as they saw us. This
village consists of thirty-six houses or huts of tule matting. After
making some inquiries as to whether we might be able to catch and talk
to any of the heathen, and being unsuccessful, we set sail. We followed
a bend of the river to the northeast, passing by the mouth of the other
channel, which separates here and runs to the northwest; the latter
seems to me to be the one which we left behind us yesterday and which
turns so as again to unite with the main stream of the river. We stopped
at seven o'clock in the evening at a ruined village, at the end of the
northeasterly bend of the river which from this point trends toward the
east. We will have traveled during the whole day no more than seven
miles. The current flows very rapidly because of the quantity of water
carried by the river, which is at a very high level.

At ten-thirty in the morning of the 18th, after having heard Mass
celebrated by the Reverend Father Fray Narciso Duran, we set out,
following the bend of the river to the east, and at two miles we
observed that the river on which we are traveling is a branch of the
main Sacramento River, which here separates and takes a northwesterly
direction. It gives off the opening, or slough, which we left behind
yesterday and continues northwest, as I have said. The channel which we
pursued makes a turn to the south and thus goes on to unite with the
other channel and flow into the Bay of the Ompines.

At the bend and at the point where we rejoin the main Sacramento River,
as stated, it contained a much greater quantity of water and has greater
width. It here flows north and south. Here we saw two little rafts,
which fled downstream at full speed, and we could not see where they
went because our view was cut off by the bend of the river we were
following. We went on northward and two miles beyond, where we joined
the main channel of the Sacramento River, we stopped at twelve o'clock
noon. While I was having lunch here with the Reverend Fathers, I was
told that many armed heathen were coming to meet us and were ready to
attack us. I immediately ordered the troops to prepare for them but
they did not arrive, nor could I see them. So it seemed to me to be an
exaggeration on the part of the Indian sailors, who, with their little
courage and in terror at seeing themselves in a land swarming with so
many heathen Indians, thought we must be ambushed since we were so
exposed. I ordered sentinels to be sent on ahead in all directions to
advise me of any advance on the part of the heathen, for the terrain was
very favorable to them. This was because of the very dense thickets and
the immense tule swamps, all submerged and covered with water, which
have extended as far as we have come.

We stayed here until four o'clock, after which we started out and
continued up the river until dark when we stopped. We may have covered
this day sixteen miles, without incident.

At six o'clock on the morning of the 19th we started up the river toward
the north, with an occasional turn east, northeast, or northwest. At
eight o'clock in the morning, having gone about three miles, we descried
several little rafts, which by rowing hid themselves along the northwest
bank of the river. Suddenly we noticed a village to the east, some three
hundred paces from the riverbank. We landed with every precaution, for
we perceived that there were people there. Although we were held up by
a slough which branches from the river itself and passes between the
latter and the village, we got across on the shoulders of the Indian
sailors. When we reached the village, its inhabitants had already
escaped into the underbrush and the tule swamps. Only two old and very