by means of single comb hives which allow of each side of the comb
being examined. He found, however, that these had one important defect.
The bees could not in these hives cluster together, which is their
natural method of withstanding the effects of a reduced temperature.
Huber hit upon the ingenious expedient of combining a number of single
comb frames so as to form one complete hive, which could be opened in
order to expose any particular comb, without disturbing the rest. From
the manner of the opening and closing of this hive, it has generally
been called the "Leaf or Book Hive." The division separating each
comb is joined both back and front with "butt hinges," fastened with
a moveable pin, on withdrawing which, at either side, each comb and
the bees on it may be inspected as easily as if in a single comb
hive. Huber's Leaf Hive is thus in appearance as if several of those
"History of England" back-gammon chess boards were set up on end
together. The floorboard on which the hive stands is larger than the
hive when closed, so as to allow of its being opened freely at any
particular "volume." An entrance way for the bees is hollowed out of
the floorboard as in other hives. There is a glass window in each end
of the hive, which is provided with a shutter.

There is, however, one serious objection to Huber's hive, which,
though not noticed by him or his careful assistant, has prevented its
general use. That is, the difficulty there is in closing it without
crushing some of the bees, a catastrophe which, by exasperating their
comrades, is certain to interfere with any experiments. There is no
such risk in the Bar and Frame Hive, whilst in it every facility
possessed by Huber's is retained; so that we strongly recommend
scientific apiarians, in preference to Huber's, that they should use
some kind of Bar and Frame Hive. We have here introduced a description
of Huber's Leaf Hive (and should be glad to exhibit one) for the sake
of its historic interest in connection with apiarian science. The
invention was invaluable for Huber himself, and it suggested to other
apiarians the adoption of the present plan of vertical bars and frames.

The character of Huber, and the circumstances under which he pursued
his observations, are so remarkable, that we need scarcely apologize
for stating a few particulars respecting him here. He was born at
Geneva in July, 1750, his family being in honourable station and noted
for talent. Just as he attained to manhood he lost his sight, and
remained blind to the end of his days. This apparently insuperable
obstacle in the way of scientific observation, was overcome by the
remarkable fidelity with which Burnens, his assistant, watched the
bees, and reported their movements to Huber, Madame Huber also who,
although betrothed to him before his calamity, had remained constant
in her affection, assisted in the investigations with great assiduity
during their long and happy wedded life. We quote the following from
"Memoirs of Huber," by Professor de Candolle:--

"We have seen the blind shine as poets, and distinguish themselves as
philosophers, musicians, and calculators; but it was reserved for Huber
to give a lustre to his class in the sciences of observation, and on
objects so minute that the most clear-sighted observer can scarcely
perceive them. The reading of the works of Reaumur and Bonnet, and
the conversation of the latter, directed his curiosity to the history
of bees. His habitual residence in the country inspired him with the
desire, first of verifying some facts, then of filling some blanks
in their history; but this kind of observation required not only
the use of such an instrument as the optician must furnish, but an
intelligent assistant, who alone could adjust it to its use. He had
then a servant named Francis Burnens, remarkable for his sagacity
and for the devotion he bore for his master. Huber practiced him in
the art of observation, directed him to his researches by questions
adroitly combined, and aided by the recollections of his youth, and by
the testimonies of his wife and friends, he rectified the assertions of
his assistant, and became enabled to form in his own mind a true and
perfect image of the manifest facts. 'I am much more certain,' said he,
smiling, to a scientific friend, 'of what I state than you are, for you
publish what your own eyes only have seen, while I take the mean among
many witnesses.' This is, doubtless, very plausible reasoning, but very
few persons will by it be rendered distrustful of their own eyesight."

The results of Huber's observations were published in 1792, in the form
of letters to Ch. Bonnet, under the title of "Nouvelles Observation
sur les Abeilles." This work made a strong impression upon many
naturalists, not only because of the novelty of the facts stated, and
the excellent inductive reasoning employed, but also on account of the
rigorous accuracy of the observations recorded, when it was considered
with what an extraordinary difficulty the author had to struggle.

Huber retained the clear faculties of his observant mind until his
death, which took place on the 22nd of December, 1831. Most of the
facts relating to the impregnation of the queen, the formation of
cells, and the whole economy of the bee-community as discovered
and described by Huber, have received full confirmation from the
investigations of succeeding naturalists.

III. EXTERIOR ARRANGEMENTS AND APPARATUS.

BEE-HOUSE TO CONTAIN TWO HIVES. No. 39.

[Illustration: Front View of Bee-House.]

There is no contrivance for protecting hives from the weather so
complete as a bee-house one, which also admits of an easy inspection of
the hives ranged therein. This arrangement is especially convenient for
lady bee-keepers.

The folding doors behind the bee-house have only to be opened, and the
hives are at once exposed to full view. If the cover of the bee-hive
be lifted as well as the shutters opened, the hives and the glasses
may be deliberately inspected, without any danger of molestation from
the bees. Thus the progress made by the busy multitude in building and
filling their combs may be watched by the bee-keeper, from day to day
with great and increasing interest.

[Illustration: Back View of the Interior.]

Here our engraving shows the back view of the bee-house, the interior
being furnished with two of our 'No. 5 cottage hives. Two suspended
weights will be noticed; these are to balance the top hives which cover
the glasses; the cord for each, runs on pulleys, so that the covers can
be easily raised and as easily shut down again when the inspection is
finished. We may here remark, that it is not well to keep the glasses
long exposed to full light and view.

The front of the bee-house being closely boarded, a passage way is
contrived for the bees by which they have egress and ingress, without
being able to gain access to the house. The hives must be kept close
to the front boarding of the house, so as to prevent the opening of
any crevices which the bees might mistake for the entrance to their
hives, and so find their way into the house. The front view of this
bee-house shows the ordinary contrivance for entrance; the sliding zinc
entrances may also be advantageously fixed as shown in the engraving of
a "Bee-house to contain twelve hives." In many parts of the country,
hives and honey are sometimes stolen from the garden; the bee-houses we
furnish have a lock and key to prevent depredations of this kind.

Care must be taken to keep the bee-houses free from spiders and other
insects. In some districts ants are numerous and troublesome. The plan
we recommend for excluding them is to put some pitch round the four
supports of the bee-house; or, better still, strips of loose flannel or
other woollen material that is absorbent, which have previously been
soaked in lamp-oil. We use sperm oil, being the slowest drying oil we
know of. A piece of string will keep the flannel close to the wood,
and then neither ant or any other insect will pass up; so that by this
simple means the hives may, so to speak, be insulated and placed beyond
their reach. As the oil dries up it can easily be renewed. We have
found this an effectual remedy against these insidious enemies of bees.

BEE-HOUSE TO CONTAIN TWELVE HIVES. No. 40.

[Illustration: Back View of the above, showing the Interior.]

Where economy of room is a consideration, we fit up bee-houses with a
double row of hives, one above the other. Our engravings show the back
and front of a house of this kind, having an ornamental zinc gutter to
prevent the wet from dripping on to the alighting board.

When a number of hives are thus together, we colour the alighting
boards differently, so that bees may have a distinctive mark by which
each may know its own home, and not wander into its neighbour's house.
Bees readily enough receive a honey laden labourer into a hive; but if
the wanderer be poor and empty, he will be promptly repulsed, and may
have to forfeit his life for his mistake. Queens returning from their
wedding trip, are liable to mistake their hive if all the entrances are
so much alike that a noticeable difference is not easily apparent.
A queen entering a hive already supplied with a fruitful sovereign
would be certain to be killed. The loss to the hive to which the queen
belonged is a most serious one. Hives are often made queenless from
this cause, and thereby reduced to utter ruin; the bee-master perhaps
attributing his loss to something altogether different.

BEE-HOUSE TO CONTAIN NINE HIVES. No. 41.

This engraving represents a bee-house adapted for having a number of
hives in a limited space. Three rows of hives, one above the other.

We do not recommend a bee-house of this construction; it is difficult
to erect one to afford space for super hives, without it being so
inconveniently high as to be liable to be blown over by strong winds.

Hives thus located in a bee-house are not exposed to so much change
of temperature and the stocks generally pass the winter well. Here we
may introduce the meditations of a German apiarian, as he describes
the advantages of a bee-house for the bees, and his own pleasure in
watching over his pets in the winter, as they dwell so comfortably and
safely. It is true that Heer Braun associates still choicer delights
with the simple pleasures of bee-keeping, but as Mr. Woodbury has not
excluded the higher theme from his translation, we need not hesitate to
quote the whole:--

EVENING THOUGHTS IN JANUARY.

(_Translated from the German of_ Adalbert Braun.)

By "A Devonshire Bee-keeper."

    Within my little garden
      Stands also a bee-house,
    And bees therein protected
      From sly tomtit or mouse.

    How quietly they're sitting!
      And little trouble give,
    Beyond the needful watching,
      How undisturb'd they live;

    That all, indeed, are living
      In strong unbroken health,
    And, in the brood-nest hanging,
      Consume their hoarded wealth--

    That in the dwindling store-room
      Sufficient stores remain,
    Until the rape-plant donneth
      Its blossom dress again.

    Thus daily do I visit
      My garden and my bees,
    Neglecting thereby often
      My dinner and my ease.

    Thank God! they all were humming
      Within their hives to-day;
    Nor could I find a symptom
      Of hunger or decay.

    And yet what ardent longing
      I feel, O Spring, for thee!
    My darlings' gleesome frolics
      Are happiness to me!

    How would this anxious longing
      Consume my very breast,
    But for a little being
      So full of love and jest.

    In heat or cold who prattles
      Around me ev'ry day,
    And stills the throes of longing
      By commune blithe and gay.

    Ye bee-keepers can value
      A joy that is complete;
    It is my wife--the darling--
      Whose lips are honey-sweet.

    With e'en the richest bee-stand
      Were joy and pleasure gone,
    If my heart's queen were wanting
      And I left here alone.

    Thus her I love and honour.
      No difference have we,
    But oft-times go together,
      Our little pets to see.

    Her kisses sweet removing
      All sorrow from my breast,
    And honied joys surrounding
      Proclaim us highly blest.

T. W. Woodbury, _Mount Radford, Exeter_.

[Illustration: Exterior of an Apiary.

As originally erected in the Zoological Gardens, Regents Park.]

[Illustration: Interior of the above.

May be taken as suggestive for the construction or appropriation of
rooms for larger Apiaries in summer houses or other outbuildings.]

ZINC COVER. No. 37.

This is a simple and inexpensive covering for a No. 5, or other cottage
straw hive when exposed in the garden. It fits close on to the upper
hive, coming sufficiently low to protect from the sun and rain, without
obscuring the whole hive.

These covers are painted green, that colour being generally preferred.

ORNAMENTAL ZINC COVER. No. 38.

The annexed engraving of the Ornamental Zinc Cover renders but little
description necessary. The illustration shows one of our No. 5 improved
cottage hives on a stand. Three clumps of wood must be driven into the
ground, and the three iron rods supporting the covering made fast to
them with screws. There are screw holes in the feet of the iron rods
for the purpose; when thus secured, but little fear need be entertained
of its being blown over by high winds.

In the roof two pulleys are fixed, so that by attaching a cord, the
upper hive covering the bell glass supers may be raised with facility
for the purpose of observing the progress made by the bees.

The Ornamental Zinc Cover will form a pleasing object in the flower
garden when placed in a suitable position on the grass plot. It is
painted green; the iron rods are of such a length as to support the
roof at a convenient height from the ground.

COVER OF ZINC. No. 29.

This zinc cover introduced by H. Taylor, Esq., for his cottage hive
(No. 14) will also be found useful as a protection from wet for many
other descriptions of round straw hives.

BELL GLASSES.

[Illustration: 25.]

[Illustration: 26.]

[Illustration: 27.]

25. To contain 10 lbs., 10 inches high, 7 inches wide.

26. To contain 6 lbs., 7 inches high, 5½ inches wide.

27. To contain 3 lbs., 5 inches high, 4 inches wide.

These bell glasses are used in the hives before described. No. 25 is
for Nutt's Hive (No. 1); No. 26 is for our Improved Cottage Hive (No.
5); No. 27 is a very small glass, one that is not often used, and which
we do not recommend. Bees will generally fill a middle sized glass
quite as soon as one so small as this.

BELL GLASSES. No. 24.

These glasses have been introduced by Mr. Taylor, and are recommended
as preferable to deep narrow glasses.

The drawings will show that they are straight at the sides, flat at the
top inside, with a knob outside to take hold by, through which is an ½
inch opening to admit a ventilating tube.

The larger is 6 inches deep, 12 inches wide; smaller 5 inches deep, 9½
inches wide.

The late Mr. J. H. Payne, of Bury, author of the "Bee-keeper's Guide,"
introduced another glass. It has a 3 inch hole in the centre, the
purpose of which is to tempt bees to produce additional and larger
stores of honey. It is to be used as follows:--when a bell glass is
half or quite filled, raise it, and place the Payne's glass over the
hole of the stock hive, with the filled glass on it over the 3 inch
hole. The bees will bring their combs through, and thus Mr. Payne found
that they would store more honey than if the bell glass were removed
and another empty one put in its place. Of course the first glass must
be smaller in diameter than the Payne's glass, so as to rest upon it.

BELL GLASS. No. 28.

This is a glass super to be placed on the hive in a similar way to
the bell glasses already alluded to. It has the advantages of being
straight at the sides, flat at top, and without a knob; so that when
filled it may be brought on to the breakfast table, inverted, on a
plate. The glass lid shown in the engraving forms a cover, and fits
over outside, so as not to interfere with the combs within. These flat
top glasses, like those with a knob, have a hole through which a zinc
ventilating tube is inserted.

GUIDE COMB FOR GLASSES.

In some of our previous allusions to the best mode of inducing bees
to commence working in glasses, we have recommended attaching guide
comb. We will now more particularly explain how this attraction can be
best applied. We have already shown how bees may be induced to make
use of guide combs fixed to bars, and the same principle is applicable
to glasses. These may be filled with great regularity by adopting the
following directions, which we believe have never before appeared in
print:--

Procure a piece of clean new empty worker honey-comb which has not had
honey in it (because honey will prevent adhesion to the glass); cut
it up into pieces of about three quarters of an inch square. Gently
warm the exterior of the glass; this we find is best done by holding
the glass horizontally for a short time over the flame of a candle;
then apply one of the pieces of empty comb inside at the part warmed,
taking care in fixing it that the pitch or inclination of the cells is
upwards--in fact, place the guide comb in the same relative position
that it occupied in the hive or glass from which it was taken. There is
some danger of making the glass too warm, which will cause the comb to
melt, and the wax to run down the side, leaving an unsightly appearance
on the glass; this should be carefully avoided, and a little experience
will soon enable the operator to determine the degree of warmth
sufficient to make the comb adhere without any of it being melted. It
is hardly necessary to state that only the very whitest combs ought to
be used. A short time should be allowed before changing the position
of the glass, so that it may cool sufficiently to hold the comb in its
place. Six or eight pieces may thus be fixed, so that when the glass is
filled, it will present a star shape, all the combs radiating from the
centre. The annexed engraving shows the appearance of a glass as worked
by the bees, in which guide combs were fixed in the manner described
above. The drawing was taken from a glass of our own filled after being
thus furnished.

In the Old Museum at the Royal Gardens, Kew, may be seen a Taylor's
glass presented by us, some of the combs in which are elongated on
the outside to the breadth of six inches. We believe that not only
does a glass present a much handsomer appearance when thus worked--and
will, on that account, most fully reward the trouble of fixing guide
comb--but that more honey is stored in the same space and in less time
than if the glass be placed on the hive merely in a naked condition for
the bees to follow their own devices.

This mode of fixing guide comb does not solely apply to this shaped
glass, but is equally useful for all kinds of glasses. It is introduced
in connection with No. 28, because that glass having a flat top and no
knob, the regularity is more clearly apparent.

The working of bees in the bell glasses illustrates how tractable their
disposition really is if only scope be allowed for the due exercise
of their natural instinct. They have no secrets in their economy, and
they do not shrink from our constant observation as they daily pursue
their simple policy of continuous thrift and persevering accumulation.
Yet it is only owing to the labours of successive inventors that
we are now enabled to watch "the very pulse of the machine" of the
bee-commonwealth:--

   "Long from the eye of man and face of day,
    Involved in darkness all their customs lay,
    Until a sage well versed in Nature's lore,
    A genius formed all science to explore;
    Hives well contrived, in crystal frames disposed.
    And there the busy citizens disclosed."--Murphy's _Vaniere_.

THE NEW BOTTLE FEEDER. No. 44.

It has long been acknowledged that the best mode of feeding bees is
through an opening at the top of the stock hive. The "new bottle
feeder" is a simple and good means of administering food when a stock
requires help in that way. Any kind of hive that has an opening at the
top may thus be fed; bees can take the food from it without leaving the
hive. Another important feature is the cleanliness with which liberal
feeding can be accomplished; and few operations require more care than
does feeding. If liquid sweet is left hanging about the hive, it tempts
robber bees, and when once the bees of an apiary have had a taste,
there is no knowing where their depredations will stop; they resolutely
attack and endeavour to rob other hives, fighting and killing one
another to a considerable extent. Even if no hives be completely
destroyed, weakness from loss of numbers will be the portion of most,
if not all, the hives in the garden.

The morals of our favorites are here a good deal at fault, for the
strongest hives, when their inordinate passion is thus stirred up
by the carelessness or want of knowledge of the bee-keeper, attack
and prey upon the weak. To be "forewarned is to be forearmed"--and
"prevention is better than cure." We strongly recommend closely
covering up the feeder; one of the middle size bell glasses put over it
makes a close fitting cover, should the regular cover to the hive not
be sufficiently tight: when bees are not kept in a bee-house--and are
on that account more accessible--this extra care is more particularly
needed. The right time for feeding is in the autumn or spring. A stock
of bees at Michaelmas ought to weigh 20 lbs. exclusive of the hive, and
if then it weigh less, the deficiency should be made up by artificial
food. It is not wise to defer doing this until later in the season,
because it is important that when the food is placed in the cells, the
bees should seal it up, and a tolerably warm temperature is required to
enable them to secrete the wax for the delicately formed lids of the
cells. If the food remain unsealed, there is danger of its turning sour
and thereby causing disease among the bees. It is not well to feed in
mid-winter or when the weather is very cold. Bees at such times consume
but little food, being in a state of torpor, from which it is better
not to arouse them.

A little food in the spring stimulates the queen to lay more
abundantly, for bees are provident, and do not rear the young
so rapidly when the supplies are short. In this particular the
intelligence of bees is very striking; they have needed no Malthus to
teach them that the means of subsistence must regulate the increase of
a prosperous population:

    "The prescient female rears the tender brood
     In strict proportion to the hoarded food."--Evans.

Judgment has, however, to be exercised by the apiarian in
giving food, for it is quite possible to do _mischief by over feeding_.
The bees when over-fed will fill so many of the combs with honey that
the queen in the early spring cannot find empty cells in which to
deposit her eggs, and by this means the progress of the hive is much
retarded, a result that should be guarded against.

The following directions will show how the bottle feeder is to be
used:--Fill the bottle with liquid food, place the net fixed on with an
India-rubber band over the mouth, place the block over the hole of the
stock hive, invert the bottle, the neck resting within the hole in the
block; the bees will put their proboscises through the perforations and
imbibe the food, thus causing the bottle to act on the principle of a
fountain. The bottle being glass, it is easy to see when the food is
consumed. The piece of perforated zinc is for the purpose of preventing
the bees from clinging to the net, or escaping from the hive when the
bottle is taken away for the purpose of refilling. A very good syrup
for bees may be made by boiling 6 lbs. of honey with 2 lbs. of water
for a few minutes; or loaf sugar, in the proportion of 3 lbs. to 2 lbs.
of water, answers very well when honey is not to be obtained.

ROUND BEE FEEDER. No. 10.

Round bee-feeders are made of zinc and earthenware; 8 inches across, 3
inches deep. The projection outside is a receptacle for pouring in the
food; the bees gain access to the feeder through a round hole, which
is placed either at the centre or nearer one side, whichever may best
suit the openings on the top of the stock hive. The feeder occupies a
similar position to that of the glasses or cap hives in the gathering
season. A circular piece of glass, cut so as to fit into a groove,
prevents the bees escaping and retains the warmth within the hive,
whilst it affords opportunity for inspecting the bees whilst feeding.

The feeders were originally only made of zinc; but some bee-keepers
advised the use of earthenware, and a few have been made to meet the
wishes of those who give the preference to that material.

When the bees are fed from above in this manner, the feeder is kept at
a warm temperature by the heat of the hive. In common hives cottagers
feed the bees by pushing under the hive thin slips of wood scooped
out, into which the food is poured. This plan of feeding can only be
had recourse to at night, and the pieces of wood must be removed in
the morning. By feeding at the top of the stock hive any interruption
of the bees is avoided. For further instructions on this head see the
directions given for using the bottle feeder.

A ZINC FOUNTAIN BEE FEEDER. No. 15.

We invented the fountain bee-feeder so that a larger supply of liquid
food might be given to a hive than is practicable with the No. 10 round
feeder.

The liquid honey is poured in at the opening, which unscrews; whilst
being filled, the inside slide closing the opening through which
the food passes into the feeding pan, should be shut down. When the
reservoir is filled, the screw is made fast, and the slide being
withdrawn, a wooden float pierced with small holes, through which the
bees take the food, forms a false bottom, and rises and falls with the
liquid. This feeder being on the syphon principle, like a poultry
or bird water-fountain, is supplied from the reservoir until that is
empty. A piece of glass is fixed in the side of the reservoir, in order
that the bee-keeper may see when it is emptied. A flat piece of glass
on the top prevents the bees from escaping, and through it they may be
inspected whilst feeding. The bees find access to the feeder on to the
perforated float through the central round hole, which is placed over a
corresponding hole in the stock hive.

NUTT'S DRAWER FEEDER. No. 9.

This is the feeding drawer, alluded to in the explanation of the
management of the No. 1 Nutt's Collateral Hive, for feeding at the
bottom of the middle or stock box. The feeder is made of tin, and of a
square form, so as to fit the drawer (see page 19).

HONEY CUTTERS. No. 13.

Honey Cutters are used for removing comb from boxes and glasses without
damaging it. The flat bladed knife is for disconnecting the combs from
the sides; the hook shaped one is for the same purpose, to be applied
to the top or horizontal part of the box or glass.

FUMIGATOR. No. 11.

This Fumigator is a tin box, somewhat like a pepper box upon a foot.
It is a simple adaptation of the fumigating apparatus described by Mr.
Nutt, and is used in the following manner. Have a straw hive or other
vessel ready, that will match in circumference the hive intended to be
fumigated. If the empty hive have a conical top, it will not remain
crown downwards without a rest; in this case, it will be convenient to
invert it on a pail. Having ascertained that the hive to be operated
upon and the empty one in its reversed position nearly match in size,
take half a packet of the prepared fungus, fire it well, and place it
in the box or fumigator; placing this in the centre of the empty hive,
then bring the occupied hive directly over, so as to receive the fumes
of smoke. To keep all close, put a wet cloth round the place where
the two hives meet. In a minute or two the bees may be heard dropping
heavily into the lower empty hive, where they lie stupefied. After a
little while, the old hive may be tapped upon to make the bees fall
more quickly. On removing the upper hive, the bees from it will be
found lying quiet at the bottom of the lower one. Place a sheet on the
ground, and spread the bees on it, then with a feather sort them over,
in order to pick out the queen-bee. As soon as the queen is found,
then pour the rest of the lethargic swarm from off the sheet back into
the inverted hive again. The stupefied bees must now be sprinkled
freely with a syrup made of honey and water, or sugar and ale boiled
together. Some apiarians recommend a few drops of peppermint to be
mixed with the syrup, in order to drown the peculiar odour which is
special to each hive of bees,--this is more necessary when two hives
of bees are fumigated and whilst under the influence of smoke are well
mixed together. The hive containing the bees with which it is intended
to unite the stupefied bees, must now be placed on the top of that
containing the latter, just as the hive was from which they have come.
A wet cloth must be fastened round the two hives, so as to prevent
any of the bees from escaping. The hives in this position must be
placed where they are not likely to be knocked down or meddled with.
The fresh bees in the upper hive, attracted by the scent of the bees
besmeared with honey, go down and commence to lick off the sweets from
the sprinkled sleepy ones. The latter gradually revive, when all get
mingled together, and ascend in company to the upper hive, where they
live as if they had not been separate families.

The two hives should be left undisturbed for twenty-four hours, then
the upper hive may be removed and placed immediately on the spot from
whence it was brought. The reason the queen is recommended to be taken
is to prevent any fighting.

The queen should be kept alive and fed as long as she will live, in
case any harm should befall the sovereign of the other community.

THE FUMIGATOR. No. 12.

The Fumigator is useful for several purposes. When a frame hive has to
be disturbed it is requisite to raise the lid and blow a little smoke
into the hive, so as to check the angry passions of the bees. If it be
desirable to stupefy the bees, ignited fungus must be placed in the
box, and the flattened end applied to the entrance of the hive; the
smoke is then blown in--either with bellows or by applying the mouth
of the operator,--taking care to close all openings through which the
smoke can escape. The bees fall down stupefied, generally in about ten
minutes, but the effect varies according to the populousness of the
hive and the quantity of comb in it. The projected operations must now
be performed speedily, as activity will soon be regained. See preceding
directions.

THE BEE DRESS OR PROTECTOR. No. 31.

All operations connected with the removal or the hiving of bees
should be conducted with calmness and circumspection. Bees, although
the busiest of creatures, have great dislike to fussiness in their
masters, and become irritable at once if the apiarian lets them see
that he is in a hurry. Hence, there is great advantage in having the
face and hands covered whilst at work amongst the bees; for when the
operator knows he cannot possibly be stung, he can then open his hives,
take out the combs, gather in his swarms, or take the honey, with all
the deliberation of a philosopher. Various kinds of bee dresses have
been contrived; one that we keep ready in stock is of very simple
construction. It is made of strong _black net_, in shape like an
inverted bag, large enough to allow of a gentleman's wide-awake or a
lady's hat being worn underneath. The projection of the hat or cap
causes the dress to stand off from the face; and the meshes of the net,
though much too small for a bee to penetrate, are wide enough to allow
of clear vision for the operator. An elastic band secures the dress
round the waist; the sleeves also--made of durable black calico--are
secured at the wrists by a similar method. The hands of the bee-master
may be effectually protected with a pair of India-rubber gloves, which
should be put on before the dress is fastened round the wrists. This
kind of glove is regularly used by photographers, and allows of perfect
ease in manipulation.

Thus a very simple and inexpensive means of protection will enable
even a novice in bee-keeping to make his observations and conduct
his experiments under a sense of perfect security. Still he need not
be careless as to the feelings of his bees; his success and their
comfort will be promoted by his "handling them gently, and as if he
loved them." "Familiarity" between bees and their master "breed" not
"contempt," but affection.

Any sudden or clumsy movement which jars the combs or frames will
excite the bees, and if but one should be crushed, the odour of their
slaughtered comrade rouses them to a pitch of exasperation. Their
powers of smell are very acute. The best time for most operations is in
the middle of a fine day.

ENGRAVED PRESSING ROLLER. No. 46.

FOR THE GUIDANCE OF BEES IN THE CONSTRUCTION OF HONEY-COMB ON THE BARS.

This is an engraved metal roller, which when applied to the coated
underside of a comb-bar leaves an impression like the diagram shown.
The wax having been spread on the flat bar, the roller, heated by being
put into hot water, is then heavily pressed over it. The roller has
two wood handles, so that considerable pressure may be given to it.
The roller is a little less than 2 inches in diameter, ⅞ of an inch
wide, and the length from handle to handle is 6 inches. The diagram
shows the full size of the impressions as left on the wax after
passing the roller along the comb bar in the manner above described.
It is a contrivance invented in Switzerland, and exhibited in the
International Exhibition of 1862, when the pattern roller was purchased
by ourselves.

The bars of a hive prepared with these markings in wax afford ready
made foundations for regular combs, which very much facilitate the
operations of the bees.

IMPRESSED WAX SHEETS FOR ARTIFICIAL COMB.

These artificial partition walls for combs are sheets of genuine
wax, about the substance of thin cardboard. They receive rhomboidal
impressions by being pressed between two metal plates, carefully and
mathematically prepared and cast so that the impressions are exactly
the same size as the base of the cells of a honey-comb. An inspection
of a piece of comb will show that the division of the opposite cells
is made by a thin partition wall common to both; now the substance
of this is said to be only the one hundred and eightieth part of an
inch, whilst the artificial ones we are recommending are between the
thirtieth and fortieth part of an inch, more than four times the
thickness of the handy-work of the bees themselves. It would, indeed,
be vain to attempt to furnish sheets of wax at all approaching their
own delicate fabric; the impressed sheets are quite as thin as they
can be to bear the handling which is requisite for fixing them in the
hives. We find, however, that the thickness is no disadvantage; the
bees speedily excavate and _pare the artificial sheet_ so as to suit
their _own_ notions of the substance required; then, with admirable
economy, they use the surplus thus obtained for the construction of
the cells. After a sheet has been partly worked at by the bees, it
is interesting to hold it up to the light and observe the beautiful
transparency of that part of it contrasted with the opaqueness of the
part not yet laboured upon.

When it is considered, as writers tell us, that more than fourteen
pounds of honey are required for the secretion and elaboration of a
single pound of comb, it will not be difficult to form a just estimate
of the value of this invention, which thus furnishes cheap and
excellent assistance to our industrious favorites. It also shows the
bee-keeper that all clean empty combs should be carefully preserved,
and considered as valuable stock. Another great advantage that it
affords us is, that it renders us independent of _guide comb_, which
is not always obtainable. When a sheet or a strip of this impressed
wax is properly fixed to the comb bar, it is _certain_ to be the guide
and foundation of a straight comb. This invention has been derived
from Germany, where it has been adopted many years with success. At
the International Exhibition of 1862, we purchased the metal plates or
castings, so as to manufacture the impressed sheets with which we are
now able to supply our customers; and, after the careful trials we have
made, we have great confidence in recommending them.

In the season of 1863 we furnished a Woodbury glass super with the wax
sheets fixed to the bars, in the manner hereafter to be explained, and
it was truly astonishing to see the rapidity with which these sheets of
wax were worked into comb. Receptacles were quickly made ready for the
storing of honey, and the new combs soon became beautifully white; for
although the artificial wax has a yellow tinge, yet after being worked
at and made thinner, it is as good in colour as ordinary combs. For
supers we cut the wax plates in half, making one serve for two bars.

We have received from Germany the following directions for the
fastening of the artificial plates to the comb bars. Hereafter will
be described a plan which we have adopted, and to which preference is
given.

(Translation) "The unstamped edge of the plate receives incisions half
an inch distant from one another made with a sharp knife, the plate
having been a little warmed. Then it is pinched between two equally
strong ledges which have been well moistened; the projecting edge of
the plate which received the incisions is alternately bent to the right
and to the left. The comb bars are well besmeared with artificial
sticking wax (a mixture of two parts of wax and one part of American
resin), and is well warmed at a fire. Afterwards the besmeared side
is laid upon the bent end of the plate, and pressed to it as firmly
as possible. A small wooden ledge, besmeared with sticking wax and
fastened by means of pressure to the lower edge of the plate, prevents
it from bending, which sometimes happens when the bees work it."

To carry out the directions here given, it is necessary to warm the
besmeared comb-bar at a fire; the wax plate has also to be warmed.
Having tried this plan, and found inconvenience attending it,
especially from the wax curling with the heat and the difficulty of
making it stick firm,--to say nothing of the uncomfortableness of
performing the operation before a fire on a hot day in July,--we began
to consider if a little carpentering might not do the work better and
more pleasantly, and adopted the following plan:--We split or cut
the comb bars of the Woodbury super in half lengthways, and taking
the unstamped edge between the two strips, join them together again
by small screws at the side, confining the wax plate tightly in the
centre, with no possibility of its falling down. Where frames are used,
of course, the bar could not be cut in two (except with the "compound
bar and frame," where the bar being loose, it might be as easily
managed). The plan we adopt with an ordinary frame is to saw out an
opening about an inch, or an inch and a half from either end where the
sides are morticed in; this opening we make with a keyhole saw. Through
it the wax plate is easily put, and with a heated iron passed over the
upper side of the bar, is made sufficiently firm. If the wax plates
are too large, a portion may easily be cut off; an opening of full 11
inches long can be made without materially weakening the bar and frame.

The wax plates must not extend to the bottom of the frame; a space of
at least one inch should be left for expansion, because the bees in
working the plate stretch it down lower. We also use a few pins firmly
pressed into the frames, and long enough to reach the edge of the
plate, for by fixing three or four pins on either side, both at the
sides and at the bottom, the plate may be held in an exactly central
position within the frame. As before mentioned, when these directions
are carried out, there is no fear of being troubled with crooked combs
on bars.

The secretion of wax, and the method of its adaptation by the bees, is
thus admirably described by Evans:--

    Thus filtered through yon flatterer's folded mail
    Clings the cooled wax, and hardens to a scale.
    Swift at the well-known call, the ready train
    (For not a buzz boon Nature breathes in vain,)
    Spring to each falling flake, and bear along
    Their glossy burdens to the builder throng.
    These, with sharp sickle, or with sharper tooth,
    Pare each excrescence, and each angle smooth,
    Till now, in finish'd pride, two radiant rows
    Of snow-white cells one mutual base disclose;
    Six shining panels gird each polish'd round,
    The door's fine rim, with waxen fillet bound,
    _While walls so thin, with sister walls combined,
    Weak in themselves, a sure dependance find._
    Others in firm phalanx ply their twinkling feet,
    Stretch out the ductile mass, and form the street,
    With many a cross-way, path, and postern gate,
    That shorten to their range the spreading state.

IV. MANIPULATION AND USES OF BAR AND FRAME HIVES.

Having at page 36, given a description of the mechanical arrangements
of bar and frame hives, the next thing is to describe the mode of
introducing the bees, and of thus bringing the humane and scientific
hives into operation. The swarm should be first hived into a common
straw hive from the bough or shrub upon which they may have alighted;
place this hive,--into which we will suppose the bees have been
shaken,--on the ground, propped up on one side with a brick or a flower
pot, or anything of the sort that may be handy, in order that straggler
bees may join the swarm. The spot selected for this should be as shady
an one as can be found, near to the place where the swarm settled; or
it may be shaded from the rays of the sun by fixing matting on two
poles so as to prevent the heat falling on the hive; spread a sheet or
cloth on the ground where an even surface can be obtained; stake this
sheet down at the four corners, to prevent ruts and inequalities, which
are great hindrances to the bees going into the bar and frame hive;
place the latter upon the sheet without its floorboard, having its
front raised on blocks or sticks rather more than an inch,--not more,
otherwise the bees will cluster and attach themselves to the lower part
of the frames instead of going up between. These preparations will
perhaps occupy ten minutes, by which time the swarm will have become
settled and tolerably quiet. Then with a sharp rap precipitate the
bees out of the straw hive on to the sheet immediately in front of the
frame hive; give the straw hive another knock so as to dislodge all the
bees, and then take it quite away, otherwise they may, if it be left
near, perversely choose to go into that instead of the one desired.
In some cases, as when the swarm has to be brought from a distance,
and procured from a cottager about whose skill in carrying out these
directions there may be misgivings, it is best to give instructions
that the swarm be brought home after sunset, and then the foregoing
directions for inducing the bees to tenant the frame-hive may be better
carried out; for ourselves, we much prefer the evening for the purpose.
A little water sprinkled over them from a watering pot is likely to
induce the bees to quit the ground and go up into the hive more quickly.

Mr. Langstroth, in his admirable book "The Hive and Honey Bee," writes
"If they are too dilatory in entering the new hive, they may be gently
separated with a spoon or leafy twig, where they gather in bunches on
the sheets or they may be carefully 'spooned up' and shaken out close
to the front of the hive. As these go in with fanning wings, they will
raise a peculiar note, which communicates to their companions that they
have found a home, and in a short time the whole swarm will enter,
without injury to a single bee." In the _Journal of Horticulture_, Mr.
Woodbury says "If combs be fixed in the frames, the crown board may be
removed, and the cluster knocked out of the straw hive on to the top
of the exposed frames. The bees will disappear between them with the
utmost alacrity, delighted to have met with a ready furnished dwelling,
and the top or crown board having been replaced, the hive should at
once be removed to the position it is intended permanently to occupy."

No one should attempt these operations without being protected by a
_bee dress_, and a pair of India-rubber gloves,--such as those used
by photographers,--which are sting proof. Some persons also take the
precaution of tying strings round the ankles of the trowsers, lest
some straggler should determine to attack the outposts of the enemy,
which, to say the least, might perplex the operator in the midst of his
task. Elastic India-rubber bands are good for this purpose, or a pair
of "knickerbockers" would be useful. If Wellington boots are worn, the
trowsers may be tucked within the leather, in which case no bee can
molest the operator, and no string or band will be needed. Practice
makes perfect in bee tending as in other matters, and when a light hand
is gained, there is little danger of the apiarian being stung.

If the weather be wet the next day or so after hiving, it will be well
to give a little assistance to the new colony in the shape of food,
for although when a swarm leaves a hive almost every bee composing it
fills itself with honey, we have known not a few instances in case
of very wet weather, in which the whole swarm has been starved for
the want of this little timely help. Of course, the first work of the
bees is to build themselves combs, and these combs being produced by
the secretion of wax from honey, a great drain upon their resources
immediately begins, and any little outlay at this juncture is
abundantly compensated by its enabling these industrious emigrants the
more quickly to push, forward the furnishing of their new home. Clean
combs from hives that may have lost their bees are readily accepted,
and cause a great saving in time and material to the bees; these combs
may easily be fixed by cutting them the proper size to fit within the
frames, and making them firm by tying with tape or fixing them with
pliable wire. Artificial comb (see page 70) is often used, and has
this advantage, that the combs are certain to be straight and regular,
besides the saving in material to the bees.

These preparations must be made prior to the bees being hived, so
that when a hive is so prepared, a swarm may begin to adapt whatever
advantages they find ready for them; and it is truly marvellous what a
swarm will do when thus furnished with combs in their new habitation.
In these the queen can immediately begin to deposit her eggs, and
the workers to store their honey, without having to wait for the
construction of combs, which is a laborious occupation for the bees.

In some cases, fine white combs may be taken from the stock hive; the
end frames are always the most free from brood. Care must be exercised
not to rob this part of the hive too much; one comb may perhaps be
removed in the course of the season without impoverishing the bees, but
it is not wise to take more.

Putting on Super Hive.--A colony established a year or more
is called a "stock," by way of distinction from a swarm of the present
year. Supposing the hive to be a stock, the super should be given them
at the early part of the season, say, if fine and warm, at the latter
end of April or beginning of May; if the weather be then unfavourable,
it is better to delay doing so until a more genial temperature. If the
colony be a swarm of the present year, two weeks should be allowed to
elapse from the time of tenanting a hive, before putting on the super;
this delay is necessary to give the bees the opportunity of building
combs in their new domicile, and of getting a store of honey for
themselves before working for their master.

When it is wished to use a super, the crown board or roof of the stock
hive must be taken away, the thin adapting or honey board taking its
place; the two long slits at the sides are to give admission to the
super. The bees will begin sooner and work faster if the eight bars are
each furnished with artificial comb (as described page 71). We have had
depriving hives very quickly filled when the bees were thus assisted.
Combs that have been left unfilled may be fixed to the bars as before
described; these must be white and clean, as dark comb should not be
used for super hives. The combs when filled may be taken out singly, if
desired for consumption, substituting an empty bar or comb; or should
the bee-keeper desire to see a handsome super, he must wait until the
bees have filled and sealed up all the combs, and then he may proceed
to deprive them of it as before described.

Taking out Frames with Combs.--It is well for a beginner to
practice the directions for opening and shutting up hives by using an
empty hive, until he becomes familiar with the handling of the frames.

The first thing to do is to loosen the crown board or lid with a knife,
drawing a piece of string underneath it to divide the wax or cement
with which the bees make all secure. This string should be drawn
through very slowly, so as not to irritate the bees. In hot weather,
the crown board may be loosened by a lateral movement; but sometimes,
for want of care, this loosening of the lid disturbs the bees, and as
soon as it is removed, a number of them, enraged thereby, pour out and
attack the operator. This and all other operations ought be done very
carefully and gently; especial care should be taken not to prise the
lid upwards, by way of wrenching it off, for the frames and combs are
generally secured thereto, and there is a liability of rending the
combs with it; this will greatly irritate the bees, and be otherwise
injurious. When a hive of bees is enraged, there is little chance of
pacifying them; it is best, under such circumstances to 'give in' at
once, and not attempt to perform any operation, but to shut the hive up
and beat a retreat, benefiting by the experience so as to do better in
a day or so afterwards. There are various devices for intimidating or
conciliating the bees, and one of these already spoken of is--smoke.
So next time the experimenter makes his attempt let bill! raise the
lid an inch or so, and blow a few puffs of smoke into the hive, which
will cause the bees to retreat. This is best done by using our No.
12 fumigator, with a little of the prepared fungus lighted. Pipes or
cigars are not convenient to use for this purpose when the head is
enveloped in the dress. As soon as the lid is removed, a few bees
will fly out to learn the cause of such an interference. Conciliation
should then be introduced by having at hand a little sweetened water,
which may be sprinkled, or rather let drop from a feather or brush. The
sudden motion of the hand required in the act of sprinkling irritates
the bees, so that instead of making them our friends, they may become
our foes. Mr. Langstroth recommends that a fine watering pot filled
with sweetened water, be used for the purpose. Care must be taken not
to drench the bees; only just sufficient should be given to run down
the sides of the combs as well as sprinkling the top. As soon as the
bees really understand that syrup is being given them, they feast upon
it instead of angrily attacking the operator. Thus pacified, and with
gentle treatment, but little difficulty will be found in proceeding
with the work required. But the unskilled operator should on no account
neglect to put on a bee-dress and gloves as described above. We would
err on the side of caution, although there is an old saying that "a cat
in gloves catches no mice," and the apiarian will find that his fingers
are not so free to work as he would like, for gloves make them rather
clumsy in drawing up the frames.

The frames must now be gently prised from front to rear; this may be
done with a small screw-driver or other stout instrument with a wedged
end to go into the notches. The frames fit loosely so as to allow of
a little movement from back to front; a lateral or side-way movement
might kill the queen; or if not so fatal as that, might crush some of
the bees and injure the brood combs, and must be carefully avoided. It,
of course, depends upon what the operation is that has to be performed
whether or no all the frames should be thus loosened. If it be for
making artificial swarms, or for any purpose requiring an interview
with her majesty, the whole of them must be loosened, because it often
happens that all the combs have to be examined, sometimes twice over,
before she can be discovered. Bees are very apt to build their combs
in a slightly waving form, and in extracting one it will be needful to
make room both for the comb and bees upon it to pass without scraping
the next comb, and there will be a difficulty if the apiarian attempts
to draw out one comb whilst the other frames are located in their
appropriate notches. Let the operator gently proceed to lift say the
third frame (allowing it to lodge on the little block that divides the
notches) a little nearer to the fourth frame, and the second nearer the
third, so as to admit of sufficient space to lift out the end one. Very
carefully and slowly he should lift the frame by taking hold with thumb
and finger of the projecting shoulders that rest in the notch; and he
must not let it touch or scrape the next frame or the sides of the hive
so as to crush or irritate any bees.

After the end comb is thus removed, it will be easy to extract the
others, as there will now be plenty of room for drawing them out. A
hive of exactly the same size should be at hand; and in case it be
desired to remove the combs and bees into another hive, care should be
taken that each comb occupies the same relative position that it did in
the old hive.

In handling the frames, bear in mind that they are to be held
perpendicularly. To gain a view of both sides of the comb when
searching for the queen, or for any purpose requiring full inspection,
with a little dexterity in twirling the frame round, the reverse side
may be brought to face the operator, without letting the comb break
away by its own weight and so fall out of the frame, which it will do
if allowed to deviate from its upright or downright position. If the
operator could see an experienced person perform the operation, he
would quickly understand how combs may thus be handled without any risk
of a smash.

When placing frames in the hive, care must be taken not to crush a
bee between the projecting shoulders of the frame and the rabbets or
notches on which they rest, and on no account must the frame be let
down with a jerk, or the bees will become exceedingly fierce: the frame
should be so slowly deposited in its place that a bee on feeling the
slightest pressure may have the opportunity of escaping unhurt thereby.
The crown board should be replaced by first resting its front edge in
its place, and then slowly lowering the after part, looking carefully
under, and momentarily raising it when necessary to avoid crushing a
bee. Should the hive have its super on, the same directions may be
followed. The super with its honey board may be bodily taken away, and
so placed and confined for a time that robber bees cannot find an
entrance, and also be far enough from the apiarian to be out of danger
of being broken or overturned by him.

Advantages of Bar and Frame Hives.--It will be asked why
all this trouble about bar and frames with straight combs built upon
them? We have shown the full command which the bee-keeper has over a
hive so constituted, and we now proceed to show how in skilful hands
these advantages may be used successfully; though, in the hands of the
unpractised and unskilful the contrary may be the result.

All the bars and frames in an apiary ought to be of precisely the
same dimensions, so as to fit every hive. This is essential for the
strengthening of weak hives. A hive that is weakly may often be
advantageously strengthened by having put into it a comb of brood from
a populous stock, to which an empty frame from the weak one may be
given; no bees must be on the brood-comb--these should be shaken off
or gently dislodged with a feather into the hive from which the comb
is taken. The frames of the hive from which the comb has been taken,
should be, one by one, placed so as to fill in the vacancy, leaving
the empty frame nearest the side. When a hive has been in use many
years, the combs become very black, and every bee that is bred in a
cell leaves a film behind. It may be understood how in this way the
cells become contracted, so that the bees that are bred in them are
correspondingly reduced in size. After the lapse of say five years, it
may be necessary to begin to remove the old combs. This may be done by
cutting away the comb or by substituting an empty frame for one with
old black comb, gradually moving the frames towards each other. By
taking two away in this manner in the spring or summer of every season,
the combs in course of five years may all be reconstructed and fresh
clean ones be secured for breeding in, instead of the old black ones
that otherwise would remain as long as the stock could live in the hive.

Artificial Swarming.--Every bee-keeper knows the anxiety there
is in watching and expecting a swarm to come forth, fearful lest his
favorites should, "like riches, take wing and fly away," a mischance
that it is desirable to prevent. In our description of natural
swarming this will be found fully treated of; we propose here merely
to point out how, with the moveable frames, this work of nature may
be assisted--we say assisted, because artificial swarming should, as
nearly as possible, resemble natural swarming, that is, it should be
performed at the same time of the year, and when the populous state of
the hive makes a division desirable. This is easily known to be the
case when bees hang out in clusters at the entrance, wasting their time
in enforced idleness instead of being abroad gathering honey. It is
also necessary that the hive contain drones.

An empty hive should be placed on the stand when the living hive is
removed, for the purpose of amusing returning bees. If the hive is
kept in a bee-house, the entrance should be shut down unto the hive is
restored, when the clustered bees may be at once admitted.

When such is the state of the hive, the facility of forming an
artificial swarm with a moveable frame hive is a decided advantage.
The best time for performing the operation is about ten o'clock in
the morning of a fine summer's day. The following directions should
be carried out:--place ready a counter or bench that is firm and
strong, and which has space on it for the inhabited--or rather the
over-inhabited--frame hive and the empty one, which is about to be made
the receptacle of a separate stock. The operator having on bee-dress
and the other appliances ready, may now open the hive as before
described, and proceed to take out the frames, carefully examining
both sides of each comb to find the queen: she is generally in the
centre of the hive, so that it is not always needful to take out all
the ten frames. As they are examined, the frames may be put into the
empty hive, and when the object of the bee-master's search is found,
he must carefully remove the frame containing her majesty, and may
place it temporarily in the empty hive at one end by itself. Next he
must proceed to put the frames back into the old hive, closing up
the vacancy caused by the removal of the comb with the queen on it,
and leave the empty frame at the end. Then he may place the frame
containing the queen--with the few bees that may be upon it--in the
centre of the empty hive; then putting all the other frames in, and
replacing the lid, the bee-master will place this hive in the exact
position occupied by the old stock. The bees that are on the wing will
go to the old spot, and finding the queen there, they will rally round
her and very soon form a sufficient number to constitute a swarm; comb
building will at once begin, the frames will in a week or so be filled,
and a satisfactory stock will thus be established. By doing this at
the right time, just before the bees are about to swarm, or when there
are many drones, all the trouble of watching and waiting for them is
saved. Mr. Woodbury claims the honour of having originated this mode
of artificial swarming; subsequently Mr. Langstroth and others have
described a similar process, no doubt originally, as far as they knew,
therefore still more useful to us as a confirmation of the value of Mr.
Woodbury's discovery.

This operation we performed, exactly as described above, with one of
our improved cottage hives one afternoon at the latter end of May,
1862. Whilst inspecting our bees, we caught sight of the queen on the
comb in one of the bell glasses. This was a chance not to be missed,
and we immediately resolved to form an artificial swarm, for the hive
was very full of bees. Besides, being obliged to be away from the
apiary most of the week, we were glad of the opportunity of so easily
establishing a colony without the uncertainty and trouble of hiving a
natural swarm. In the first place we slid a tin under the bell glass,
and removing the stock hive from underneath we took it a few feet away;
then we placed an empty improved cottage hive where the old stock had
stood, and put the glass of comb containing the queen and a few bees
over one of the holes in the crown of this new empty hive. The bees
that were left abroad, belonging to the old stock returned as usual to
their old entrance as they supposed; soon a sufficient number formed a
large cluster in the hive and began comb building, the queen remaining
in the glass until the cells below were sufficiently numerous for her
to deposit her eggs in them. The division answered exceedingly well,
both hives prospered; the old hive either had some princesses coming
forward to supply the loss of the queen, or the bees used a power that
they possess of raising a queen from worker brood in the manner we have
previously described.[5]

[Footnote 5: See Section 1, page 5.]

The foregoing account illustrates the successful formation of an
artificial swarm; but with a cottage hive it was quite a matter of
accident to have been able to get possession of the queen. With a
moveable frame hive she can at any suitable time be found.

Precisely the same plan is to be adopted with the old stock in the
frame hive as we have described in the case of the cottage hive, that
is to remove it some few paces off: when the hives are in a bee-house,
a similar result may be attained by placing the new swarm for a day or
two to the entrance used by the bees when with the old stock, and the
old stock may be removed to an approximate entrance. Some apiarians
recommend that a space be left between the two hives, by placing the
hives on the right and left of the old entrance, in order that too
large a proportion of bees should not enter the new hive at the old
position to the impoverishment of the other. But we have found the mode
adopted with the cottage hive answer so well, that we see no reason for
recommending any different plan.

It is the office of the bee-master to assist, not to go in the least
degree contrary to nature. We know that when a natural swarm issues
forth it has its impregnated queen, and when located in a new abode
commences building worker combs, and leaves the building of the few
drone combs to a later period; but if a division of the hive should be
made by putting half the combs in one hive and half in another, the
hive containing the queenless or embryo queen will busy itself with
building only drone comb, thus a number of receptacles for useless bees
is provided, which tends to weakness, and eventually to loss of the
hive.

In the plan we have recommended for forming two separate families, we
nearly follow the natural state of things; the comb that the queen is
upon is the only one that is taken from the hive, and this vacancy
should be filled in by moving the frames together so as to leave
the empty frame at the end. The bees, under the government of the
impregnated queen, construct the combs and furnish their new abode,
which, as before stated, they will do with worker cells.

By adopting the plan above described, the moveable bar and frame hive
will prove far superior to any of the dividing hives, which provide for
equal division of the combs.

Perhaps the greatest advantage the moveable frame hive possesses is,
that a full knowledge can be attained of its exact state as regards the
queen, the population and the quantity of food in stock. During weather
of a genial temperature, the combs may on any fine day be inspected,
and thus a knowledge being gained of the deficiency existing in a hive,
the necessary means may be adopted for supplying the want. Sometimes
such an examination will verify the fears of the bee-keeper, when,
having observed that his bees have ceased to carry in pollen, he has
thereby received warning that the queen has been lost at some juncture
when no successor to the throne could be provided. Such a hive has
entered on a downward course, and will dwindle away entirely unless a
queen should be given to it, or else, some combs containing young brood
not more than three days old. By the latter method the bee-keeper
will gain an opportunity of seeing the bees set about their wonderful
process of raising a queen from the brood thus provided for them.

When a bee-keeper has become skilful in his calling, he may be desirous
to encourage the breeding of queens, or rather of preventing their
destruction. He will seek to use the propagating instincts of the
worker bees as a set off against that innate hatred of rivalry which
prompts the reigning queen to kill the tender royal brood.

Hives found to be queenless may be supplied either with matured queens
or with queen cells. If the latter are sufficiently numerous, their
introduction may easily be effected by exchanging a comb in each hive;
if they have to be cut out and placed loosely in the new hive, a
triangular piece of comb should then be removed with them, to be used
as a block in preventing any pressure coming on them. A space must be
cut out of the middle in the centre combs of the hive into which they
are to be introduced. Special care must be taken not to bruise the
royal embryos, as they are particularly sensitive to pressure.

A very great advantage that the Woodbury bar and frame-hive possesses,
is the safety and convenience with which a stock of bees can in it
be transported to any part of the kingdom; and, by a few additional
arrangements, stocks have been sent in it to distant countries. In many
districts hives are removed to moors and heaths in autumn, for the
purpose of gathering heather honey. In this operation the frames are
a great support to the combs, very much lessening the risk of a break
down and consequent loss.

From a hive that has been inhabited all the winter, we have not
unfrequently lifted out the frames and removed the stock to a clean
hive, and we believe that the change has always been useful. The bees
find a clean floorboard and a clean hive to breed in, free from insects
that may have harboured in crevices about the hive. When the change
has been made, the old hive can be thoroughly cleaned, and used in the
same way for making the exchange with another stock. The process for
handling will, of course, be the same as before described. We have
found that where this plan has been carried out, that the bees seem to
progress faster. Perhaps a little stirring up may be useful in arousing
them from the winter doze; the time we recommend for doing this is the
beginning of April, but a fine warm day should be chosen.

DRIVING.

Driving is an operation by which bees are induced to vacate an old
settled hive and to enter an empty one. Many apiarians prefer this mode
of effecting an exchange of hives to the plan of fumigating the bees.

The greatest success attending such a transfer will be in the case of
hives well filled with combs that are worked nearly to the floorboard;
and it may be remarked that bees are generally so far provident, that
they leave an open space in which to pass underneath their combs over
all the floor of the hive. When the old hive is inverted, the bees
crawl up the combs, and thus more easily pass up into the new hive,
which the operator places over the old one with the intent that they
should enter it.

The best time for performing this operation is about the middle of
the day, and when the weather is warm. It is essential that the
operator be protected with a bee-dress and gloves, as before described;
and previous to commencing his task, he must provide all necessary
implements. These are:--a couple of hives, one of which should
correspond in shape and size with the hive from which the bees are to
be driven; a cloth to tie round at the junction when the new hive is
placed on the old one; some string to keep the cloth in its place;
an empty pail to receive the top of the old hive, if one of the old
conical shape, but if the stock of bees is in a square box hive with a
flat top, a firm stool will be the best; and a No. 12 fumigator with
some fungus, which will complete the material of war. The bucket or
stool must be placed securely on the ground about a yard from the place
where the full hive stands; then a few puff's of smoke being blown in
amongst the bees, will cause them to retreat up amongst the combs. The
bee-master will now turn the hive[6] upside down very gently, letting
it rest in the pail or on the stool; he then quickly places the empty
hive over the full one, and ties the cloth round it to prevent any
escape of the bees. If the cloth be damped, it will cling the closer
to the hives. The third hive is intended to be placed on the stand
formerly occupied by the stock, so as to retain the few returning
bees which had been absent in the fields. Care must be taken that all
crevices through which it is possible for the bees to escape from the
united hives should be effectually closed. When the two are fairly
united, the operator will proceed by rapping the full hive gently with
the hands or a couple of sticks, more particularly on that side where
the combs are the most thickly placed--that is, if the hive be not
equally filled.

[Footnote 6: Care should be exercised in turning the hives over to keep
the combs vertical, or they are likely to break from their foundations.]

It generally happens that in about fifteen minutes the bees regularly
commence the ascent; their exodus will be known by the distinct rushing
sound which is always noticed when a colony of bees is on the move.
The first thing bees do when disturbed is to till their honey bags, as
they invariably do at swarming time, consequently after the first rush
into the new hive is over, as in the case of a swarm, the "flitting"
bees are not much disposed to take wing. When the noise made by the
ascending bees has been heard, and has in good degree subsided, the
cloth may be removed, and the old hive, now deserted, may be taken
indoors, and if a few bees yet remain, they may be brushed off with a
feather. An experienced apiarian on first hearing the rushing noise
before mentioned, will not hesitate to tilt the top hive over a little
on one side, so that he may watch the bees during the ascent; the queen
may be seen passing up, and if the operator desires to take her away,
he can secure her by placing a wine glass over her. This expedient is
often resorted to in the autumn when stocks are to be united, for in
such a case the removal of the queen prevents some fighting.

If the taking of the honey be the object of the bee-master, then
"driving" is manifestly a better plan than to resort to the fumes of
sulphur for the purpose; for the bees from whom their store is taken,
can be joined to stocks that are weak in numbers, with considerable
advantage to the future prosperity of the apiary.

When the removed bees are to be joined to another stock, the operator
will proceed as follows:--At dusk, dislodge the bees on to a cloth,
sprinkle them with sweet syrup, and place the hive to which it is
intended to join them, over the mass; they will gradually ascend into
the hive placed for them, and early next morning the hive, with its
slender stock thus augmented, may be removed to its stand. Should the
operator not have been successful, or not sufficiently skilful to
gain possession of the queen, he may leave it to the bees themselves
to decide which queen they will have. By this plan of "driving,"
artificial swarms may be secured by an "expert" even in common hives,
though those do not afford the facilities for such a purpose as do the
bar, or bar-and-frame, hives.

CHANGING OLD STOCKS TO NEW HIVES.

We frequently find that the possessor of a stock of bees in a
cottager's common straw hive is desirous of removing the whole stock of
bees and comb into one of our improved hives, in which the honey may
be obtained without the destruction of the bees. We mostly discourage
such a transfer, attended as it is with much labour, and requiring a
considerable amount of apiarian skill. An old fashioned hive may very
readily be rendered a humane one, simply by cutting out with a sharp
pointed knife the middle of the top of the hive; a piece may thus
easily be taken out, so as to leave a round hole two or three inches
in diameter, but care must be taken that the knife does not penetrate
much below the straw, lest it reach the comb or the bees--and it will
be safer for the operator to have a bee-dress on. There should be ready
a round adapting board, with a corresponding hole, which may be secured
on the top by putting four long nails through the same number of holes
in the board; then a cap hive or a glass may be placed on the top, for
the purpose of admitting the bees, who will soon crowd therein to work.

This hive or glass will form a super or depriving hive, and can be
worked as profitably as most of the improved hives. Per the sake of an
improved appearance, an outside case, either of zinc, straw, or wood,
may be dropped over all, and then, if well painted, the whole will form
no disfigurement to any flower garden.

This is beyond doubt the easiest way of overcoming the difficulty, but
as it may not satisfy all, we now proceed to describe how a complete
transfer may be made. No hive offers such facilities for the correct
placing of the combs in a perfectly upright position as does the bar
and frame hive. As before remarked, we should be slow to recommend
any one to attempt the operation who is not already pretty well
accustomed to the handling of bees and acquainted with their habits;
but by carefully carrying out the following directions any one may
successfully perform the feat. The first thing is to get the bees away
from the combs; there are two ways of doing this, one is by fumigation
(see page 60), the other by driving (see page 84). Whichever plan may
be resorted to, have the bees confined in the old hive on their stand
until you are quite ready to admit them into the bar and frame hive.
Have in readiness all the necessary appliances: these consist of a
large knife for cutting the hive, a good sized table on which to lay
the brood combs, a basin of water--for washing off honey which may
besmear the hands,--tape or cotton string to fasten the combs in their
frames, a pair of honey cutters for cutting out the combs, jars to
hold the honey that runs out, and a feather for brushing off any bees
that may remain. It is necessary that the operator should have on his
bee-dress, and India-rubber gloves. Then begin by slicing off a piece
of the hive with a sharp table knife; carefully cut out the working
combs--cut them large, so that they will squeeze into the frames; and
to be more secure, wind some of the tape round to keep them in position
until made fast by the bees. After a few days, these fastenings may be
removed. Care should be taken that the combs occupy the same position
in the frames as in the hive from which they were extracted. Having
thus prepared the hive, the bees may be let into it. It may be as well
to keep them confined a few hours, giving them water at the top, until
they make the combs secure; the new hive will then be less likely
to offer an attraction to bees from other hives who, if feloniously
inclined, might come to rob. This transfer should be made when the
weather is such that the bees can fly about; when not warm enough,
it should be done in a room at a temperature of about 70 degrees. An
expert apiarian could perform the operation in less than three quarters
of an hour, and with little loss. A week or so after a swarm has left
the old stock is perhaps the very best time for such a removal. Should
the operation be performed in the open air, the bees from surrounding
hives will be sure to come in great numbers to obtain a share of the
honey necessarily exposed, for they delight in plunder. In order,
therefore, to avoid annoyance to the operator, and the excitement which
is certain to be induced in surrounding hives, it is better to conduct
the dissection in some building with closed doors. In some instances a
routing of this kind has a beneficial effect; old stocks of hives that
have previously appeared to be dwindling, are often aroused to activity
by their removal into a fresh domicile.

WEIGHING HIVES, &c.

One of the most effectual modes of ascertaining the condition of a hive
is by weighing it. Such knowledge is most important at the close of the
gathering season, in order that the bee-keeper may determine whether he
ought to give his bees artificial food to enable them to live through
the dreary winter. A knowledge of the numerical strength of the colony
is also useful, in enabling the bee-keeper to decide which hives will
be benefited by being joined together, which may be done on the plan
explained in the articles on "Fumigation" and "Driving."

A hive can very easily be weighed, if a Salter's Spring Balance be
suspended near the apiary. The hive, having a strap or cord passed
under and over it, and crossing at right angles on the top, may be
hooked on to the balance, so that the weight will be indicated on the
dial. The weight of the hive should be marked on it when empty, so that
the exact amount of its contents may at any time be ascertained. A
colony of bees at Michaelmas ought to weigh from 20 to 24 pounds, that
is, exclusive of the hive; if falling short of that weight, the hive
should be made up to it by the artificial means before recommended.

Experienced apiarians are able to judge of the weight of a hive by
lifting it a few inches from the stand; or by looking in at the windows
of a stock hive, a conclusive opinion may be formed as to the state of
the colony. If the combs within view be well filled and sealed, it will
be safe to consider that the hive contains sufficient stores to carry
the bees through the winter.

V. MISCELLANEOUS INFORMATION.

STINGS: THEIR PREVENTION AND CURE.

Some of our readers may deem us neglectful in having, as it were, left
them to struggle through their bee-keeping novitiate without informing
them how to avoid being stung by their docile but well armed flock.
Of course, having described the bee-dress, we have supposed that
the apiarian was clad, if not "in complete steel," at least, in the
head-gear and gloves, which will render him invulnerable. The best
safeguard from the anger of bees--as indeed from the malice of men--is
a quiet and peaceable spirit. The apiarian will learn to handle his
bees not only as "if he loved them,"--as the quaint angler says--but as
if he fully believes that the bees love him. This they will do whenever
he approaches and treats them gently. There are some cases of exception
to this generally peaceable disposition of the bee; sometimes a few
bees are dyspeptic, and refuse to be pacified--let their master seek
to bribe them never so wisely. Then, too, sometimes the bee-master
himself may be dyspeptic, which the unerring olfactory sense of the
bees speedily detects, and their anger is immediately aroused. Some
few persons, owing to constitutional peculiarities in their breath or
insensible perspiration, are objects of constant animosity with bees,
who by driving them from the apiary, are giving a physician's advice
without charge for a fee. Some of the choicest perfumes used by ladies
are offensive to bees: and one may feel very certain that the "fine
puss gentleman," who disgusted the brave Hotspur with his "pouncet
box" and praise of "'parmaceti for an inward bruise," would have been
speedily driven from an apiary in ignominious flight. Occasionally,
even a skilful apiarian may inadvertently crush a single bee; such a
mischance is detected by the community with much more facility than by
any "crowner's quest," and their prompt verdict decrees the summary
punishment of the offender. There would be much less fear of stings if
it were always remembered that bees are never aggressive. "Defence, not
defiance," is their motto. They scarcely ever attempt to sting when
away from the hive, and very seldom indeed at the time of swarming,
for then they are gorged with honey. When molested by angry bees, the
safest and best retreat is a green bush. Thrust your head into this,
and the bees will soon leave you.

Yet some people appear to think they must inevitably be stung if they
meddle with bees; and for their sakes it is needful to explain why
it is that a sting is painful, and how the wound inflicted by the
bee may be cured. Those familiar with the usual microscopic objects
will know how marvellously delicate, and yet effective, is the
mechanical structure of a bee's sting. This weapon as we see it with
our naked eye--finer than a needle's point--is only the sheath, which
lengthens or contracts like the tubes of a telescope. From the sheath
is projected the dart, which is double, each half of it piercing
alternately deeper into the wound made by the sheath. The dart is
barbed on each side, so that the bee when very angry is scarcely ever
able to withdraw it:--

    "Deems life itself to vengeance well resigned;
     Dies on the wound, and leaves the sting behind."

If the patient who receives the sting could only take it patiently, it
would not prove half the inconvenience to him that often is the case.
There are indeed some happy mortals whose "blood such an even tenour
keeps," that a bee-sting is to them simply a puncture, and nothing
more. Dr. Bevan has suggested that lovers should subject themselves to
the ordeal of a bee-sting, in order to prove, we suppose, that their
temper is proof against "the _stings_ and arrows of any outrageous
fortune" that matrimony can bring.

It is the homœpathically minute tincture of poison injected by the
bee which causes inflammation. The first thing to do is to remove
the sting, which, even when detached from the bee, will continue to
penetrate still further into the wound. Next, press the hollow point
of a watch-key exactly over the place stung; this will express a
considerable portion of the virus. Then dip the hand or bathe the part
with cold or tepid water, for the poison is volatile, and will thereby
be dissipated to a great extent. On no account whatever should the part
affected be rubbed; to do that will diffuse the poison, and increase
the inflammation. The specific remedy for a bee-sting is taught us
by chemistry: the venom is an acid, which an alkali will immediately
neutralize when brought into contact with it. Spirits of hartshorn
will generally be found effectual for the purpose, and should always
be kept in an apiary. There are also several other remedies, more or
less effectual, according to the special constitution of the patient. A
strong infusion of tobacco water applied to the wound after the sting
has been extracted, is a specific for many persons; others find relief
from the application of a sliced onion.

We have heard the remark from several who have kept bees for years,
that the poison from a sting has little or no effect on them; after
receiving many inflictions, their flesh appears to become so little
affected that the swelling and pain at one time experienced no longer
trouble them.

POLLEN; OR, FOOD FOR INFANT BEES.

Bees, when fully grown, feed almost wholly on honey; but the larvæ
require for their development a more substantial kind of nourishment.
Such solid fare is found by the bees in the pollen of flowers, a farina
which contains some of those nitrogenous elements in which honey is
deficient. The body of a worker-bee is covered with hairs, to which the
pollen adheres when, by contact with the bee, it is rubbed from the
anthers and stamens of flowers. The bee with its fore legs then brushes
it off, and moulds it into the pellet shape suitable for carrying it in
the "baskets" or grooves on its thighs. Dewy mornings or humid bowers
suit the bees for the gathering of the pollen. If the atmosphere be too
dry for kneading it into pellets, they roll themselves in the blossoms,
and trust to the good offices of the bees at home, who, on their
return, brush off the farina into the cells intended for it, A portion
of this "bee bread" is taken at once by the "nursing bees," which are
supposed to subject it to some change before offering it to the larvæ;
but the greater part of the pollen is stored away, and sealed over in
the cells for future use. In April and May the bees are frequently busy
"all the day" in gathering pollen, and often one community of bees will
collect about twenty pounds weight of "bee bread" in one season.

One of the objects of the apiarian is to assist the bees in
providing for the nurselings of the hive. A German pastor, Heer
Dzierzon, first suggested the plan of providing the bees with
"unbolted rye meal" as a substitute for the farina of flowers. He
had observed that, in early spring before the flowers were open, his
bees had entered a neighbouring corn mill, from whence they returned
laden with rye flour. Since his discovery, most bee-keepers in early
spring place either rye or wheat meal near the apiaries; to this
artificial store the bees repair by thousands, and seem to rollick in
the enjoyment of so much plenty, many of them returning to the hive as
dusty as millers. The object in thus supplying them is, that the brood
may be rapidly brought forward and early swarming induced. In this
way, a few pounds of rye meal at one penny per pound may tend to the
production of very many pounds of honey of twelve times the price.

In gathering pollen from flowers, bees are doing more than merely
providing for their own community. Whilst humming through our gardens
they are assisting to propagate our flowers, and their merry buzz in
our orchards indicates that the blossoms of spring will in autumn
fulfil their promise by abundance of fruit. In Mr. Darwin's remarkable
work, "The Fertilization of Orchids," the mystery of the fructification
of flowers is scientifically explained; but before the subject was
so fully understood, it was quite believed that bees in passing from
flower to flower performed some important service. Owners of fruit
trees have noticed, in a season generally unfavourable for the orchard,
that if during only one fine forenoon the bees had spread freely
amongst the blossoms of a particular tree, that it would prove more
fruitful than its fellows. On this account the orchard is a good place
for an apiary, for it seems--more abundant the honey, more plentiful
will be the fruit. Bees bear the fructifying matter from one sex of
flowers to the other, but they confine their attention to one kind of
flower during each excursion: and the careful observer may see how the
colour of the pollen on the bodies of the bees will vary from yellow to
red and brown, according to the kind of flowers from which it has been
gathered. The gathering of pollen, its use by the nursing bees, and the
storing of it in the cells, afford to the bee-keeper opportunity for
observations of exceeding interest.

PROPOLIS; OR, BEES' CEMENT.

The old notion that wax is gathered by bees from flowers as they gather
honey, has long since been set aside by the discoveries of Hornbostel
and Huber. Wax is an oily substance secreted from the honey in the
bodies of the bees, on which it forms in thin flakes. But there is "a
resinous substance, very tenacious and semi-transparent," which is
indispensable for the bees as a cement wherewith to fix their combs
and fortify their hives against intruders, and this is "propolis."
The bees, in working the propolis, often soften it by blending it
with a portion of wax; but they have to extract it in its natural
state directly from the bark and buds of certain trees. The bark of
the willow, the leaf buds of the poplar and alder, and the unopened
blossoms of the hollyhock, are very usual sources of propolis. In the
case of a new swarm, as bees must have this glue before they can
begin to build their combs, they will resort to most unlikely places
to obtain it. Sometimes they will enter a paint shop and attack the
varnish, and it is said they have been seen to obtain propolis from the
pitch and rigging of a ship. These circumstances afford intelligible
hints to the apiarian, who, if his bees have not easy access to firs,
poplars, or willows, will provide some glutinous or resinous matter
which may serve for a substitute. The extracting of the propolis costs
the bees very considerable labour, which they should be relieved of
as much as possible, in order to facilitate their great work of honey
gathering. Bees choose the warmer part of the day during which to
gather propolis, as then it does not so rapidly stiffen. Frequently
when they arrive at the hive it has become so hard that the other bees
are scarcely able to gnaw it from their thighs.

With propolis bees fasten down their hives, stop up crevices to exclude
moths and ants, and sometimes use it to narrow the entrance of their
hive against the invasion of wasps. Extraordinary anecdotes are told
of the prompt and ingenious use they make of this substance. Reaumur
relates that a snail having been observed by the bees on the window
of the hive, they proceeded to glue the shell to the glass, and there
sealed down the intruder in hopeless durance. In another case, that of
a slug, or snail without a shell, the bees having slain it with their
stings, were quite unable to remove it from the hive. With wonderful
foresight, they then proceeded to secure their community from the
noxious effects likely to arise from the decay of the carcase; and
this they did by completely enveloping it with a coating of impervious
varnish. Huish relates a similar occurrence in the case of a mouse
caught in a hive by bees. Propolis yields benzoic acid, and contains
some aromatic properties.

PASTURAGE FOR BEES.

    "Bees work for man; and yet they never bruise
     Their master's flower, but leave it, having done,
     As fair as ever, and as fit for use"

Apiarians generally agree in the opinion that very little can be done
in the way of providing any special forage for bees. Yet bee-fanciers
are always interested in observing which the flowers are that the bees
prefer; and there are certain well established conclusions as to the
kind of district and season which are the likeliest to produce a good
honey harvest. There is an old saying that a country which produces
the finest wool also yields the best honey; and a pastoral district is
decidedly better than one under tillage. The principle of the matter
is, that the bees are best suited with a long dry season--an early
spring, a hot summer, and a late autumn. As not one of these blessings
can be commanded by the apiarian, his art must be applied to provide
some mitigation of the injury suffered by the bees when the season is
short or wet. For early spring, the crocus, the blue hepatica, and the
violet, all afford good supplies of honey, and if cultivated near the
apiary, will be of great service when the wild flowers are backward.
All varieties of the willow and poplar furnish early supplies of honey,
as well as of the propolis of which we have spoken; the blossoms of
the gooseberry and currant are very useful for the bees in May. Wet,
when it enters flowers of any kind, prevents the proboscis of the bee
from reaching the secret source of honey. On this account, it is well
to know, as does the bee, that the drooping blossoms of the raspberry
escape the effect of the showers, and honey is gathered from them when
other flowers are drenched within as well as without. For a similar
reason, the borage (_borago officinalis_) is valuable for bees; and,
also, because that plant continues to flower until the frosts set in.
The honey both from raspberry blossoms and borage is very superior. Mr.
Langstroth says that "the precipitous and rocky lands of New England,
which abound with the wild red raspberry, might be made almost as
valuable as some of the vine-clad terraces of the mountain districts
of Europe." The "golden rod," and also asters, afford superior honey
for autumn gathering. Dzierzon strongly recommends buck-wheat being
sown in the winter stubbles on behalf of the bees, and he tries hard
to persuade farmers that it is to their interest to cultivate it. It
should be named that all the ordinary fruit blossoms, especially those
of the apple, supply abundant store for bees.

It is, however, to wild or field flowers that the bee-master must
chiefly look for the raw material on which his myriad artisans shall
exert their skill. The white clover of the pasture--the wild thyme
on the hill--the heather on the moors--the furze and the broom on
the sandy waste--offer exhaustless stores for a greater number of
bees than can ever be located near them. There are also two or three
peculiar sources of honey which one would not have suspected, as, for
instance the blossoms of the onion plant, of turnips, and in still
greater degree, the flower of the mustard plant. In those districts
of England where mustard seed is cultivated so extensively, it would
be well worth while for the farmers to keep large colonies of bees.
Another, but a very uncertain source of honey, is the "honey-dew,"
which in some seasons appears in large quantities on the leaves of the
oak, the lime, and some other trees.

It is important to mention that bees in the principal breeding season
require a plentiful supply of water. Owing either to their carelessness
or eagerness, they are frequently drowned when drinking from any large
quantity of water; the bee-keeper should, therefore, place near the
hives shallow vessels of water containing pebbles, on which the bees
may alight to take frequent but temperate draughts.

THE LIGURIAN OR ITALIAN ALP-BEE.

A new, or rather a re-discovered, variety of bee has recently been
brought into practical use amongst apiarians in Germany and America, as
well as in this country. The ordinary bee is the _Apis Mellifica_ of
naturalists; the new kind is the _Apis Ligustica_. It was also named
"The Ligurian Bee" by the Marquis de Spinola, who found it in Piedmont
in 1805; and he considered it to be the principal species known to
the Greeks, who speak of the "best kind" of bee as being of a red
colour. Leading apiarians agree in pronouncing these bees to be justly
entitled to the high character given to them. Their special advantages
are--greater fecundity of the queens, less irascibility, and a more
handsome appearance, for being of a golden colour, they are prettier
than our black bees.

Our own experience with the Italian Alp-bee enables us to corroborate
the statements which have been made in favour of this new variety. We
find the queens more prolific than those of the common kind, and the
quantity of honey produced is greater. These two facts stand as cause
and effect; the bees being multiplied more quickly, the store of honey
is accumulated more rapidly, and the Italian bees consume, if anything,
less food than the common kind. When of pure Italian blood, these bees
are by some apiarians thought to be hardier than our own. That they
forage for stores with greater eagerness, and have little hesitation in
paying visits to other hives, we can testify from our own observation.
The following anecdote will illustrate their intrusive propensities.
Another bee-keeper living in the neighbourhood of our apiary, when
inspecting our hives, observed the yellow bees; he exclaimed, "Now I
have found out where those strange-looking bees come from; for," said
he, "these yellow-jackets are incessant visitors to my hives. I thought
they were a species of wasps that had come to rob, and until now I have
been unable to account for their appearance at the entrance of my hive,
so that I have killed them by hundreds." This was not at all pleasing
intelligence for us, and we trust that our neighbour has been more
lenient to "the yellow-jackets" since his visit. We are inclined to
believe that more visiting takes place amongst bees of different hives
than bee-keepers have been accustomed to suppose; where the Italian and
black bees are kept near each other, the foreigners being conspicuous
by their lighter colour, there is less difficulty in identifying them
when at the entrances of other hives.

This season (1864) we have had more honey from a Ligurian stock than
from any one of our colonies of black bees. From this Ligurian hive
we have taken a glass super containing 40 lbs. nett of honey, besides
having drawn from it an artificial swarm; and, after all, it remains
the strongest hive in our apiary.

The Baron Von Berlepsch and Pastor Dzierzon, who are probably the two
most intelligent and skilful bee-keepers of Germany, award to the
Italian a very decided preference over the common bees. The Baron says
that he has found:--1. That the Italian bees are less sensitive to
cold than the common kind. 2. That their queens are more prolific. 3.
That the colonies swarm earlier and more frequently. 4. That they are
less apt to sting. 5. They are more industrious. 6. That they are more
disposed to rob than common bees, and more courageous and active in
self defence. They strive, whenever opportunity offers, to force their
way into colonies of common bees; but when strange bees attack their
hives, they fight with great fierceness, and with incredible adroitness.

It is said, that the Italian bee can extract honey from some flowers
which the common bee is unable to penetrate. For instance, the blossom
tubes of the red clover being too deep for the proboscis of the common
bee, that flower is useless to them, although so plentiful; but, says
Mr. Langstroth, the American apiarian, the Italian bee visits the red
clover assiduously, and draws large quantities of honey from it.[7]

[Footnote 7: This opinion is not held by the closest observer of
Italian bees in England.]

The introduction of this new variety of bee into England was through
our agency. M. Hermann, a bee cultivator at Tamins-by-Chur, Canton
Grison, Switzerland, wrote to us on the 5th July, 1859, offering to
supply us with Italian Alp queen bees. This letter, or an extract from
it, appeared in the current number of the _Journal of Horticulture_,
(then called the _Cottage Gardener_,) a periodical that regularly
opens its columns to apiarian subjects. Prior to this the _Italian
Alp_, or as it has been named the "Ligurian" bee, was unknown in
this country, except to a few naturalists. The letter referred to
attracted the attention of that intelligent apiarian T. W. Woodbury,
Esq., now so well known as the "Devonshire Bee-keeper." On the 19th
of July, that is a fortnight after Mr. Hermann's offer, we received a
consignment of Italian Alp bees, being the first imported into England,
with these, Mr. Woodbury also received one queen-bee and a few workers,
which he introduced into a hive of English bees from which the queen
had been taken. His efforts were very successful, and "the spring
of 1860 found him in possession of four Ligurianized stocks." His
subsequent experience with the Italian Alp bee he has fully described
in a communication to _The Bath and West of England Agricultural
Journal_.

Subsequently Mr. Hermann sent us a copy of his pamphlet entitled "The
Italian Alp Bee; or, the _Gold Mine of Husbandry_," with the request
that we should have it translated from the German, and that copies of
it should be printed in the English language. The pamphlet was speedily
published by us, and although singular as a literary production, it may
be useful for the advanced apiarian.

Certainly the bees are partially of an orange or golden colour, and if
one could believe the golden anticipations indulged in by Mr. Hermann
respecting them, it would be sufficient to identify the Italian Alp bee
as the species described by Hood in Miss Kilmansegg;--those which dwelt
in

    "A golden hive, on a golden bank,
     Where golden bees, by alchemical prank,
     Gather gold instead of honey."

Poor Hermann himself did not profit by the discovery of the mine. His
enthusiasm for the culture of the Alpine bee instead of wafting him
to El Dorado appears to have driven him to the prosaic retreat of a
debtor's prison. By the latest accounts we learn that--his ardent
spirit chafing against his incarceration,--he had made an attempt to
escape, and in doing so, fell from the prison walls and broke both
legs. We understand that he has since died.

In the pamphlet referred to, Mr. Hermann gives the following
description of what he insists on designating as _Apis Helvetica_:--
"The yellow Italian Alp-bee is a mountain insect; it is found between
two mountain chains to the right and left of Lombardy and the Rhetian
Alps, and comprises the whole territory of Tessins, Veltlin, and
South-Graubunden. It thrives up to the height of 4,500 feet above the
level of the sea, and appears to prefer the northern clime to the
warmer, for in the south of Italy it is not found. The Alps are their
native country, therefore they are called _Yellow Alp-bee_, or tame
house bees, in contra distinction to the black European bees, whom we
might call common forest bees, and who, on the slightest touch, fly
like lightning into your face.(?)

"As all good and noble things in the world are more scarce than common
ones, so there are more common black bees than of the noble yellow
race, which latter inhabit only a very small piece of country, while
the black ones are at home everywhere in Europe, and even in America."

Notwithstanding the death of M. Hermann, we shall in future be able to
supply all bee-keepers, who may wish to possess stocks of the genuine
yellow Alpine bees.

The Italian varies but little from the common bees in its physical
characteristics. The difference in appearance consists in the first
rings of the abdomen, except the posterior edge, and the base of the
third--being of an orange colour instead of a deep brown. These orange
coloured parts are transparent when closely examined with the sun
shining on them. The Italian bees are more active than common bees when
on the wing.

During the summers of 1859 and 1860 we had over from the Continent a
great number of Ligurian queens; these were sent to all parts of the
kingdom. We regret to say that but few were successfully united to
English stocks. It requires a considerable amount of apiarian skill to
accomplish the union, so that we find by experience it is best to send
out complete Ligurian stocks. This is particularly desirable now that
the packing of whole hives is so easily accomplished by us with the aid
of bars and frames. We have sent a great number of stocks to all parts
by rail.

Mr. Woodbury, owing to his knowledge and skill in bee-keeping, was
eminently successful in propagating the Ligurian bees first imported
into this country; and we would recommend all who may be interested in
the subject, to peruse the interesting articles written by him in the
_Journal of Horticulture_. He has shown great patience and energy by
his labours in the rearing of queens and the multiplication of stocks,
for which he merits all praise. On the other hand, Mr. Woodbury has
to thank the Ligurian bees for the development of his own skill, for
although prior to this he was a valued correspondent to the before
named Journal, his commencement of scientific bee-keeping must be dated
from the time of their introduction.

We now add to the other testimonies already cited, that of Mr. Woodbury
as to the superior qualities of the Ligurian bees. The following is
extracted from a paper contributed by him to the _Bath and West of
England Agricultural Journal_:--"From my strongest Ligurian stock I
took eight artificial swarms in the spring, besides depriving it of
numerous brood-combs. Finding in June that the bees were collecting
honey so fast that the queen could not find an empty cell in which to
lay an egg, I was reluctantly compelled to put on a super. When this
had been filled with. 88 lbs. of the finest honey-comb,[8] I removed
it, and as the stock-hive (a very large one) could not contain the
multitude of bees which issued from it, I formed them into another very
large artificial swarm. The foregoing facts speak for themselves; but
as information on this point has been very generally asked, I have no
hesitation in saying that I believe the Ligurian honey-bee infinitely
superior in every respect to the only species that we have hitherto
been acquainted with."

[Footnote 8: This super was exhibited at our stand in the International
Exhibition of 1862.]

After such decided testimony as this, corroborated, as it is, by many
other observers, there seems every reason to expect that the Ligurian
bee will gradually supersede the common kind throughout the United
Kingdom.

LIVING BEES AT THE INTERNATIONAL EXHIBITION OF 1862, SENDING BEES TO
AUSTRALIA, &c.

The engraving represents our stand in the Agricultural Department of
the International Exhibition of 1862. The space granted us in the
World's great Fair was somewhat limited; but we were able to exhibit
a tolerably complete stock of apiarian apparatus and all the more
important bee-hives. Amongst these was a Unicomb Hive stocked with
the Yellow Alpine or "Ligurian" bee. This was an object of great
attention, and daily hundreds of visitors flocked round our stand in
order to watch the movements of the Italian queen with her gay and busy
subjects. The entrance way for the bees being in the "Open Court," to
which all visitors had access, it was necessary to place the hive in an
elevated position, so as for it to be beyond the reach of incautious
passers by, and to obviate any chance of annoyance to the vast crowds
of people continually around.

Among others who took a deep interest in our exhibition, was Mr. Edward
Wilson, President of the Acclimatisation Society of Victoria. This
gentleman requested us to pack four stocks of the Ligurian bees for
conveyance to Melbourne. With the assistance of Mr. Woodbury--whose
aid was, indeed, essential--these stocks were sent off on the 25th of
September, 1862, by the steam ship Alhambra, so as to arrive at the
colony during the Austral summer. The hives were Woodbury-frame hives,
having ample space and ventilation, as well as the means of supplying
water to their inmates during the voyage; there was, also, a sufficient
store of honey to last until the following March. The bees arrived at
Melbourne, where they were released after an imprisonment of seventy
nine days, and have since rapidly multiplied, the climate and pasturage
of Australia greatly favouring the increase of this superior variety of
the bee.

Mr. Wilson was so well pleased with the careful manner in which these
stocks were fitted out for their voyage across the seas, that he
subsequently instructed us to prepare him three more hives, which were
sent out in a sailing vessel. Owing to the mismanagement of the water
supply during the voyage, only one stock survived in this instance.

Upwards of twenty years ago, we sent a Nutt's Hive stocked with bees
to New Zealand. We then adopted the plan of fixing the hive in a meat
safe, so that the bees could fly about a little, and also cleanse
the hive of their dead, for bees are very attentive to sanitary
arrangements; they always remove the dead ones from their midst, and do
not void excrement within the hive.

When bees are shut up in their hives too long, they are apt to be
attacked by a disease called by apiarians--dysentery. Sometimes when
confined by the unfavourableness of the weather in winter or the
lateness of spring, this disease produces serious mischief amongst the
bees. Various remedies have been recommended; but we believe the best
is to see that there is wholesome food within the hive, and plenty of
it, and when fine weather returns, the health of the bees will return
with it. Dampness of the hives, and too late feeding in the autumn, are
also frequent causes of this disease.

BEE-KEEPING IN LONDON.

There are many persons now in this noisy city pent, who frequently
remember the days of childhood when, among pastures of clover or amidst
flowery heath and woodlands, they listened to the cheerful hum of bees.
Partly from a desire to revive those old associations, and also from a
natural liking for the tendance of living creatures, such persons would
be glad to keep bees if they thought it possible to do so in London
or its suburbs with any chance of success. We do not wonder that many
should doubt even the possibility of bees feeding themselves amidst
such an "endless meal of brick;" but we can easily prove that bees,
if not placed too near to smoky chimneys, are able to produce honey,
both for themselves and for their masters. To make this plain, we will
mention some special instances of metropolitan bee-keeping.

About ninety years ago, a Mr. Wildman kept a bee-house and honey
warehouse near to Middle Row, Holborn. He was not only a tradesman, but
was also the apiarian of his day. He kept hives of thriving bees on
the roof of his house in Holborn, and many of the nobility and gentry
used to mount thither in order to inspect the apiary. At that period,
St. Pancras was a "village two miles north-west of London," and what
is now the Regent's Park was open country. It was then much easier for
London bees to find their favourite forage, but Mr. Wildman believed
that his hives were filled with stores from a considerable distance.
Whilst enjoying his country rambles on Hampstead Heath, he had a
shrewd suspicion that many of the bees he there observed gathering
honey were Labourers from his own apiary. In order to identify his
own flock amongst the rest, he hit upon a homely but very effective
expedient. Having borrowed Mrs. Wildman's "dredging box," he stationed
himself near the entrance of his hives, and gently dusted his bees with
flour as they issued forth. He then betook himself to Hampstead, where
he found his previous surmise confirmed, for there were numbers of his
bees in their livery of white.

Wildman became noted for the remarkable control he obtained over his
bees, many instances of which he exhibited before the public. Many
of his operations with them were regarded as feats of legerdemain
by the uninitiated, as when he appeared before the king George III.
with a swarm of bees hanging in festoons from his chin, or suspended
in a cluster at arm's length. The Journal of Horticulture recently,
in alluding to Wildman, gives the following particulars as to his
performances:--

  Near the "Three Hats," Islington, was a place of popular
  entertainment called "Dobney's Tea Gardens," kept by Mrs. Ann
  Dobney. These gardens occupied the ground between White Lion Street
  and Winchester Place, and were established as far back as 1728. In
  1771 the house was taken for a short time as a boarding school;
  but it was soon changed to its original purpose as a place of
  amusement, for in 1772 Daniel Wildman exhibited bees here. This is
  a copy of the advertisement:--

  "June 20, 1772. Exhibition of bees on horseback! at the Jubilee
  Gardens, Islington, (late Dobney's), this and every evening until
  further notice (wet evenings excepted.)

  "The celebrated Daniel Wildman will exhibit several new and
  amazing experiments, never attempted by any man in this or any
  other kingdom before. The rider standing upright, one foot on
  the saddle and one on the neck, with a mask of bees on his head
  and face. He also rides standing upright on the saddle with the
  bridle in his mouth, and by firing a pistol, makes one part of
  the bees march over the table, and the other swarm in the air and
  return to their hive again, with other performances too tedious to
  insert. The doors open at six; to begin at a quarter before seven.
  Admittance:--Box and gallery, 2s.; the other seats. 1s."

The secret of Wildman's skilful manipulation is well understood now; it
consisted in a careful holding and disposal of the queen, together with
confidence in the generally inoffensive disposition of bees. Dr. Evans,
whom we have often quoted for his correct information in apiarian
matters, thus speaks of his feats:--

    "Such was the spell which, round a Wildman's arm.
     Twined in dark wreaths the fascinated swarm;
     Bright o'er his breast the glittering legions led.
     Or with a living garland bound his head.
     His dextrous hand, with firm yet hurtless hold,
     Could seize the chief, known by her scales of gold,
     Prune, 'mid the wondering train, her filmy wing.
     Or o'er her folds the silken fetter fling."

To recur to our subject. After the days of Wildman, our own
establishment in Holborn became widely known for bee hives and
honey. Although we never attempted to start a London apiary at all
approaching in extent that of our predecessor, we have occasionally
kept bees on the house top both in Holborn and Regent Street. At both
those situations, we have noticed that the bees bring "pollen" as
well as honey into their hives. Last summer there was brought under
our notice an illustration of the acuteness of the scent of bees, and
of their diligent search for food, proving too that if sweets can be
obtained even from unusual sources, the bees will find them out. A poor
woman who, at the corner of an adjacent street vends "brandy balls,"
"toffee," "rock," and other saccharine compounds--all well known to and
appreciated by most juveniles,--used to receive frequent visits from
our bees. Their visits to the old dame's domain were at first rather
interesting, and if the few pioneers who had the sagacity to find such
a store had kept the secret only to themselves, their company would
not have been objected to. Such selfish policy does not, however,
accord with the social instinct of bees, and these soon informed their
companions of the good fortune provided for them in an archipelago
of sugar islands. Day by day the swarms of these uninvited visitors
increased, until all legitimate customers were beaten off; and the old
dame had to see, not only her hope of gain destroyed, but her stock of
"goodies" sensibly diminishing by the thefts of these brigands of the
air. She could not, or dare not attempt to, drive the intruders away,
so made diligent enquiry as to where the robbers were harboured. Having
traced them to our establishment in Regent Street, she came to implore
of us to move the bees if possible, or she would have to move her
stall, and so lose her "connection" in the "toffee" and "rock" trade.
Wishing not to hinder the poor woman in gaining her livelihood, we
decided on removing our bees into the country.

It is difficult to assign an exact limit to the distance that bees
will go in search of honey yielding blossoms. It has been proved by
various experiments that they will fly say five or six miles, if the
supplies are scanty within a shorter radius; but bees well understand
that first of all economies,--the saving of time, and if they can find
forage near at hand, they prefer it. Hence, other things being equal,
the quantity of honey stored will be in proportion to the contiguity of
good pasturage. In this way it is that the systematic removal of hives,
as practiced in many districts, has such a notable effect on the honey
harvest.

During several years we kept bees in the Zoological Gardens, Regent's
Park, and have there frequently taken full and handsome glasses of
honey. The position of our apiary was on the site now occupied by the
"New Monkey House." The Society promise to erect a new building for an
apiary in the course of the ensuing summer. The visitors to the Gardens
found considerable interest in watching the bees in our glass hives,
and are now much disappointed at the absence of so entertaining an
exhibition.

A gentleman residing in St. James's Place, has for some considerable
time past kept bees in his garden there. He uses our improved cottage
hives, and his bee-keeping is decidedly successful as he generally
takes some fine glasses of honey each season, besides leaving
sufficient as winter store for the bees. For a London situation, St.
James's Place is a very favourable one; the gardens behind the houses
pleasantly face the Green Park, so that the bees have an uninterrupted
flight to start with. They are also within easy range of the richly
flowered gardens of Buckingham Palace and those of the nobility and
gentry who reside around the Parks. To those gardens the bees of St.
James's Place resort, without waiting for any license or certificate
from the royal and noble owners of the honey yielding preserves. Being
within a short distance of our establishment, when this gentleman's
bees swarm he generally sends to us for assistance in hiving them.

The neighbourhood of St. John's Wood, and indeed almost all the suburbs
of London, are favourable for the production of honey. We mention St.
John's Wood because, from the fact of having kept bees there ourselves,
we are able to prove by our experience that they do well in that
locality. We have several customers on nearly all sides of the town,
who have each had this year a considerable surplus of honey in their
"supers," after leaving sufficient for the bees themselves in the lower
or stock hives.

We exhibited in our window last autumn a super of fine honey from the
apiary of Shirley Hibberd, Esq., the proprietor and editor of the
_Gardiner's Weekly Magazine_. It is a box containing 20 lbs. nett
weight of honey, and was produced at Stoke Newington, only 3¼ miles
from the General Post Office.

The _Times_ "Bee-Master," whose letters from Tunbridge Wells have
awakened so much interest in this pleasing pursuit, also commissioned
us to exhibit a "super," produced under his own management in that
locality. A friend of ours at Exeter had upwards of 400 lbs. of honey,
of excellent quality, though one of his apiaries is quite within the
city.

The last has been an excellent honey yielding season; our own bees, at
Dorking, in Surrey, have produced us large quantities, and the accounts
from nearly all parts of the country coincide in stating that the bees
have in the year, 1864, enjoyed unusual opportunities for accumulation.
In not a few localities, the season of 1863 was even more abundant.

WASPS AND MOTHS.

Bees have few enemies more formidable than wasps. The most effectual
method of checking their invasion of hives, is to have as narrow an
entrance as the bees can do with. If a stock be not very weak in
numbers, the bees will be well able to guard a small aperture, and can
repel the attacks of those insidious and merciless robbers. On this
account, the entrance to our No. 5 hive as described at page 31, may be
used.

The bee-keeper is interested in preventing the increase of wasps; it
is, therefore, a good practice for him to set a price on queen wasps in
the spring, the death of one of them at that time being equivalent to
the destruction of a whole nest.

Should nests be found in the neighbourhood of an apiary, their
annihilation must be accomplished either by blowing them up with
gunpowder, an operation well understood by most country lads; or any
other effectual method. The late Mr. Payne recommended that a small
quantity of gas tar should be put into the mouth of a wasp's nest, and
if then covered with earth, the total destruction of the wasps will
be accomplished without further trouble. But to use blazing straw for
the purpose is always dangerous in country districts. We have lately
heard of a very ingenious and successful mode of entrapping and killing
wasps. Place some sugar or strongly sweetened compound on the ground in
a garden, and place over it a square hand glass, wedged up an inch or
so all round. On this glass, which should have an opening at the apex,
lodge another, but a sound one. The wasps, attracted by the sweets,
will soon crowd under the lower glass, and when they have well feasted,
will ascend into the upper one; there, between the two, they soon
become scorched and perish by the heat of the sun shining on the outer
glass.

The season of 1864 was most productive for the increase of these prime
pests of the apiary, and many hives have severely suffered by their
depredations. When once wasps in any number have gained an entrance
into a hive, the bees can seldom eject them, and the invaders generally
remain until they have freely regaled themselves from the luscious
store. They not only consume the honey, but cause a good deal of worry
to the legitimate inhabitants of the hive, as well as killing the
foremost defenders of it. Wasps being of so much superior strength, it
requires, at least, three bees to master one of them.

Having suffered loss in our own apiary from the attacks of wasps,
we feel it desirable to give a detailed account of our own troubles
from that cause. One of our Ligurian stocks was besieged and worried
by wasps to such an extent, that the bees deserted it on the 5th
of September, (1864). Fortunately, the bees chose a time for their
departure just as we visited the apiary. An unusual turmoil was heard
in the hive, such as is experienced at the time of swarming, and on
immediately examining the entrance, we observed that the bees were
quitting in tumultuous haste. The usual methods that induce bees to
settle were tried--amongst others, that of throwing sand up into
the air, so as it should fall down amongst the bees on the wing;
but they were dispersed in disorder, and their flight extended over
three adjacent gardens. We only discovered the clustered bees by
diligent search, as the sequel will show. Permission being asked of
our next door neighbour, we searched his garden to see if our bees
had alighted there; but found that they had passed over. Making a
similar application to the owner of the garden adjoining, we entered,
having a straw hive in hand, but no bees were there. After looking
diligently all round, and climbing the wall, thereby gaining a view
of the third garden, we perceived in it unmistakable signs of an
unwonted commotion. The occupiers of the house were intently looking
at a particular part of the garden, and there was a dustpan and a key,
with which the master had been "tanging the bees" to induce them to
settle. We quickly made for the proper entrance to the garden, and
soon discovered our little wanderers clustered to a large flower vase.
Our neighbours, however, were sadly disappointed of their prize, for
the gardener had hastily been dispatched into the town to purchase
a hive for the welcome colonists. In depriving our neighbours of so
unexpected and cheaply acquired a treasure, we could sympathise with
their regret, having been much disheartened half-an-hour before at
our own loss; but, of course, we could do no other than claim our own
bees. We gladly agreed to defray the expense of the straw hive that had
been purchased for the sake of our truant swarm. After brushing the
bees into the hive, and leaving it propped up with a stick, in order
that the stray ones might join, we returned home for an hour or so,
to give them time to settle. Judge of our vexation when on returning
to fetch the hive home, we found that the refractory creatures had
again taken flight, and that all the work was to do over again. The
wasps were not to blame for this second flight of the Ligurians; we
judged that the swarm had been disturbed by visits from a colony of
bees that we discovered were living the life of outlaws under the roof
of an adjoining house. Although much disheartened and perplexed, we
at once renewed our search, and, upon enquiry, found that the missing
bees had taken a southerly course across the turnpike road, and it was
therefore necessary to ask permission to search the gardens of the
houses opposite. From one of these we observed, on looking through the
hedge, that the inhabitants of the next house were on the _qui vive_.
On enquiring whether they had seen a colony of bees, the wary old dame
replied that she "had no bees but her own," and added that "they were
very much excited." Having asked permission to go through the hedge
to look at her bees, we soon discovered our Ligurians on the top of
the old lady's bee-house. There was no difficulty in identifying our
own bees; their yellow rings were as good as a private mark. Quickly
hiving the swarm, we took them home, and replaced them in the hive
they had quitted. It was almost destitute of honey; but by liberal
feeding, and lessening the entrance so that only one bee at a time
could find ingress or egress, we succeeded in inducing them to rest in
their old home. Thus nearly half a day's exertion was needed to save a
fine colony, which would otherwise have been utterly lost by the power
of the relentless wasps.

Much watchfulness is needed to prevent the loss of swarms, and the
foregoing incident may serve to suggest the necessity of having hives
so located as to be constantly within view, either from the dining
room, or of those whose duties oblige them to be near the apiary. If
we had not happened to be at hand at the moment this colony started,
it would have been irretrievably lost to us. Many swarms and colonies
are lost simply because the departure takes place without any one
witnessing it. Let us hope that runaway bees may always fall into
the hands of those who are as capable of taking care of them as our
neighbours appeared to be on the occasion we have described.

Another formidable enemy of bees are the moths. These insects are
creatures of the night, as the bees of the day, and they make their way
into the hives under cover of darkness, in spite of the bee-sentinels.
They deposit their eggs in any crevices in or near the hive that they
can find. There the warmth of the hive or of the sheltered situation,
causes the eggs speedily to hatch, and then the maggots soon work their
way to the comb and larvæ food, which they greedily devour, thereby
often bringing about the gradual but certain destruction of the whole
community of bees. The best way of keeping moths outside the hives
is to lessen the entrance, as before alluded to. Also, in the early
spring, the hives should be lifted from their floorboards, which must
then be made thoroughly clean, and all crevices and corners about the
hive and stand should be scraped, so as to get rid of all eggs of moths
and other insects before the warm weather hatches them or enables them
to do mischief. The bee-moth is not so troublesome in England as it