PEPPER, LOVAGE, DILL, CELERY SEED, CORIANDER, DRY MINT, PINE NUTS, RUE, HONEY, VINEGAR, WINE [2] BROTH, A LITTLE OIL, HEAT AND BIND WITH ROUX.
[1] Ex Tac. and Tor.; wanting in List. and G.-V.
[2] Tac.; wanting in Tor.
[452] ANOTHER SAUCE FOR BOILED MURENA ALITER IUS IN MURENA ELIXA
PEPPER, LOVAGE, CARRAWAY, CELERY SEED [1] CORIANDER, [228] FIGDATES, MUSTARD, HONEY, VINEGAR, BROTH, OIL, REDUCED WINE.
[1] List., Sch., Dann. add here which is wanting in Tor. rhus Syriacum—Syrian Sumach.
The originals are considerably confused on the above and the following formulæ.
[453] ANOTHER SAUCE FOR BOILED MURENA ALITER IUS IN MURENA ELIXA
PEPPER, LOVAGE, VINEGAR, CELERY SEED, SYRIAN SUMACH [1] FIGDATE WINE, HONEY, VINEGAR, BROTH, OIL, MUSTARD, AND REDUCED MUST. SERVE [2].
[1] See note to ℞ No. 452.
[2] Ex Tor. It appears that this formula is a correction of ℞ No. 452, as this is wanting in the other editions. Tor. also lacks the following formula.
In Tac. the above formula follows the next.
[454] SAUCE FOR BOILED FISH IUS IN PISCE ELIXO
PEPPER, LOVAGE, PARSLEY, ORIGANY, DRY ONIONS, HONEY, VINEGAR, BROTH, WINE, A LITTLE OIL, WHEN BOILING, TIE WITH ROUX AND SERVE IN A SMALL SAUCE BOAT [1].
[1] in lance; lanx may also mean a large oblong platter on which fish would be served. Cf. illustration Oval Dish with Handles.
Horace II Sat. 8—in patina porrecta—a special dish to hold the cooked murena and to display it to advantage.
Such special dishes are found in any good table service, to serve special purposes. Not so long ago special forks and knives were used for fish service which have been gradually discarded.
[455] SAUCE FOR BOILED LACERTUS FISH IUS IN LACERTOS ELIXOS [1]
PEPPER, LOVAGE, CUMIN, GREEN RUE, ONIONS, HONEY, VINEGAR, BROTH, A LITTLE OIL; WHEN BOILING TIE WITH ROUX [2].
[1] Lacertus, an unidentified sea fish.
[2] Cf. note 3 to ℞ No. 448.
In G.-V. this formula precedes the above.
[456] SAUCE FOR BROILED FISH IUS IN PISCE ASSO
A SAUCE FOR [this] BROILED FISH MAKE THUS [1] PEPPER, [229] LOVAGE, THYME, GREEN CORIANDER, HONEY, VINEGAR, BROTH, WINE, OIL, REDUCED MUST; HEAT AND STIR WELL WITH A WHIP OF RUE BRANCHES, AND TIE WITH ROUX.
[1] Tor. wanting in others.
[457] SAUCE FOR TUNNY IUS IN THYNNO
TUNNY, BY MEANS OF THIS SAUCE WILL BE MORE PALATABLE: [1] PEPPER, CUMIN, THYME, CORIANDER, ONIONS, RAISINS, VINEGAR, HONEY, WINE, AND OIL; HEAT, TIE WITH ROUX, AND SERVE FOR DINNER [2].
[1] and [2] first and last sentences from Tor., wanting in others.
[458] SAUCE FOR BOILED TUNNY IUS IN THYNNO ELIXO
PEPPER, LOVAGE, THYME, CRUSHED HERBS [1], ONIONS, FIG DATES [or fig wine] HONEY, VINEGAR, BROTH, OIL, MUSTARD AND TIE [2].
[1] Condimenta mortaria—herbs crushed in the “mortar”; also pulverized spices.
[2] “and tie” wanting in List. Leave it out, and you have an acceptable vinaigrette—a cold sauce for cold fish.
[459] SAUCE FOR BROILED TOOTH FISH IUS IN DENTICE ASSO [1]
SAUCE FOR BROILED TOOTH [1] FISH IS MADE THUS [2] PEPPER, LOVAGE, CORIANDER, MINT, DRY RUE, COOKED QUINCES [3], HONEY, WINE, BROTH, OIL; HEAT AND TIE WITH ROUX.
[1] Dentex; Hum. dentex forma auratæ similis, verum major—the tooth-fish is similar to the dory in shape, though larger.
[2] Tor. sentence wanting in other texts.
[3] Malum Cydonicum.
[460] BOILED TOOTHFISH IN DENTICE ELIXO [1]
PEPPER, DILL, CUMIN, THYME, MINT, GREEN RUE, HONEY, VINEGAR, BROTH, WINE, A LITTLE OIL, HEAT AND TIE WITH ROUX.
[1] Ex List.; wanting in Tor.
[461] SAUCE FOR DORY IUS IN PISCE AURATA [1]
A SEASONING FOR DORY IS MADE THUS [2] PEPPER, LOVAGE, CARRAWAY, ORIGANY, RUE BERRIES, MINT, MYRTLE [230] BERRIES, YOLKS OF EGG, HONEY, VINEGAR, OIL, WINE, BROTH; HEAT AND USE IT SO.
[1] Aurata—the “golden” dory. Very esteemed fish. Martial, III, Ep. 90:
[2] Tor. wanting in other texts.
[462] SAUCE FOR BROILED DORY. IUS IN PISCE AURATA ASSA
A SAUCE WHICH WILL MAKE BROILED DORY MORE TASTY CONSISTS OF [1] PEPPER, CORIANDER, DRY MINT, CELERY SEED, ONIONS, RAISINS, HONEY, VINEGAR, WINE, BROTH AND OIL.
[463] SAUCE FOR SEA SCORPION [1] IUS IN SCORPIONE ELIXO
PEPPER, CARRAWAY, PARSLEY, FIGDATE WINE, HONEY, VINEGAR, BROTH, MUSTARD, OIL AND REDUCED WINE.
[1] Sea scorpion, boiled like shellfish, with the above ingredients; the cold meat is separated from the shell and is eaten with vinaigrette sauce.
[464] WINE SAUCE FOR FISH IN PISCE ŒNOGARUM
CRUSH PEPPER, RUE, AND HONEY; MIX IN RAISIN WINE, BROTH, REDUCED WINE; HEAT ON A VERY SLOW FIRE.
THE ABOVE, WHEN BOILING, MAY BE TIED WITH ROUX.
EEL
[466] SAUCE FOR EEL IUS IN ANGUILLAM
EEL WILL BE MADE MORE PALATABLE BY A SAUCE WHICH HAS [1] PEPPER, CELERY SEED, LOVAGE [2], ANISE, SYRIAN SUMACH [3], FIGDATE WINE [4], HONEY, VINEGAR, BROTH, OIL, MUSTARD, REDUCED MUST.
[1] Tor. sentence wanting in other texts.
[2] Note the position of lovage in this formula. Usually it follows pepper. We have finally accounted for this peculiarity. Torinus, throughout the original, treats “pepper” and “lovage” as one spice, whereas we have kept the two separate. He believed it to be a certain kind of pepper—piper Ligusticum. Piper, as a [231] matter of fact, stands for pepper, and Ligusticum is the herb, Lovage, an umbelliferous plant, also called Levisticum. The fact that the two words are here separated plainly shows that Torinus has been in the dark about this matter almost to the end.
One wonders why he did not change or correct this error in the preceding books. His marginal errata prove that his work was being printed as he wrote it, or furnished copy therefor—namely in installments. Since the printer’s type was limited, each sheet was printed in the complete edition, and the type was then used over again for the next sheet.
[3] Tor. thun.
[4] Wanting in Tor.
[467] ANOTHER SAUCE FOR EEL ALITER IUS IN ANGUILLAM
PEPPER, LOVAGE, SYRIAN SUMACH, DRY MINT, RUE BERRIES, HARD YOLKS, MEAD, VINEGAR, BROTH, OIL; COOK IT.
END OF BOOK X THE LAST OF THE BOOKS OF APICIUS
CELII APITII HALIEUS LIBER DECIMUS & ULTIMUS. EXPLICIT [Tac.]
CANTHARUS, WINE BOWL OR CUP
With elaborate ornamentation: Over a sacred fountain the walls of a theatre, with emblems of a theatrical nature and garlands of flowers and fruits, wine skins, tyrsus, torches, masks and musical instruments. Hildesheim Treasure.
OPENING CHAPTER, BOOK I, VENICE, 1503
From the Lancilotus edition, printed by Tacuinus in Venice in 1503. Identical with the two previous editions except for very minor variants. The rubrication is not completed here. Fine initials were painted in the vacant spaces by hand; the small letter in the center of the square being the cue for the rubricator. This practice, a remnant from the manuscript books, was very soon abandoned after the printing of books became commercialized.
BREVIS PIMENTORUM
Manuscript of the 8th Century. From the Codex Salmasianus, Excerpts from Apicius by Vinidarius.
CACCABUS
Stewpot, marmite, or kettle. With a ring base. The cover fits over the mouth. Ntl. Mus., Naples, 74813; Field M., 24172.
Apici Excerpta A Vinidario Viro Inlustri
FIFTH CENTURY
Vinidarius, a Goth, of noble birth or a scientist, living in Italy. Vinithaharjis is the native name. Of his time and life very little is known. It appears that he was a student of Apicius and that he made certain excerpts from that book which are preserved in the uncial codex of Salmasius, sæc. VIII, Paris, lat. 10318.
Vollmer in his Apicius commentary says that Salmasius and his predecessors have accepted them as genuine. Schuch incorporated these recipes in the Apicius text of his editions, in appropriate places, as he thought. This course cannot be recommended, although the recipes should form an integral part of any Apicius edition.
M. Ihm, who faithfully reprinted the excerpta in the Archiv f. lat. Lex. XV, 64, ff. says distinctly: “These excerpts have nothing to do with the ten books of Apicius, even if some recipes resemble each other ...” and other researchers have expressed the same opinion. Vollmer, however, does not share this view.
If I may be permitted to concur with Vollmer, I would say that the excerpts are quite Apician in character, and that in a sense they fill certain gaps in the Apicius text, although the language is strongly vulgarized which may be readily expected to be the case in the age of Vinidarius.
The recipes of Anthimus, written around A.D. 511 also confirm the close relation existing between Vinidarius and Apicius. Anthimus was the Greek physician to Theodoric I, (The Great), Frankish king living in Italy. He was not acquainted with Apicius.
SUMMARY OF SPICES BREVIS PIMENTORUM [1]
WHICH SHOULD BE IN THE HOUSE ON HAND SO THAT THERE MAY BE NOTHING WANTING [in the line of condiments]: SAFFRON, PEPPER, GINGER, LASER, LEAVES [laurel-bay-nard], MYRTLE BERRIES, COSTMARY, CHERVIL [2], INDIAN SPIKENARD, ADDENA [3], CARDAMOM, SPIKENARD.
[1] Pigmentorum—specierum—spices. The old pigmentum is really any coloring matter; the word, corrupted to pimento and pimiento is now used for sweet red pepper and also for allspice.
[2] Cariofilu—cærefolium—Chærephyllon; Fr. Cerfeuille; Ger. Kerbel. This should be among the herbs.
[3] Not identified.
OF SEEDS [to be on hand] DE SEMINIBUS HOC
POPPY SEED, RUE SEED, RUE BERRIES, LAUREL BERRIES, ANISE SEED, CELERY SEED, FENNEL SEED, LOVAGE SEED, ROCKET SEED, CORIANDER SEED, CUMIN, DILL, PARSLEY SEED, CARRAWAY SEED, SESAM.
OF DRIED [herbs, etc., to be on hand] DE SICCIS HOC
LASER ROOT, MINT, CATNIP, SAGE, CYPRESS, ORIGANY, JUNIPER, SHALLOTS, BACAS TIMMI [1], CORIANDER, SPANISH CAMOMILE, CITRON, PARSNIPS, ASCALONIAN SHALLOTS, BULL RUSH ROOTS, DILL, FLEABANE, CYPRIAN RUSH, GARLIC, LEGUMES [2], MARJORAM [3], INNULA [4] SILPHIUM, CARDAMOM.
[1] Not identified. Perhaps the seed of thyme, though the word bacas would be out of place there.
[2] Ospera, i.e., Osperios.
[3] Samsucu, i.e., sampsuchum Elderberries?
[4] Not identified; perhaps laurus innubus, dried virgin laurel leaves.
OF LIQUIDS [to be on hand] DE LIQUORIBUS HOC
HONEY, REDUCED MUST, REDUCED WINE, APIPERIU [1] RAISIN WINE.
[1] Not identified. We take it to be honey mead, or some other honey preparation, maybe, piperatum, pepper sauce.
OF NUTS [to be on hand] DE NUCLEIS HOC
LARGER NUTS, PINE NUTS, ALMONDS [1] HAZELNUTS [filberts] [2].
[1] Acmidula, i.e., amygdala.
[2] Aballana—abellana—abellinæ—avellana; Fr. avelline.
OF DRIED FRUITS [to be on hand] DE POMIS SICCIS HOC
DAMASCUS PRUNES, DATES, RAISINS, POMEGRANATES.

SUMMARY OF DISHES [1] BREUIS CYBORV [1]
| I. | CASSEROLE OF VEGETABLES AND CHICKEN | CACCABINA MINORE |
| II. | STUFFED CHARTREUSE | CACCABINA FUSILE |
| III. | BRAISED CUTLETS | OFELLAS GARATAS |
| IV. | ROAST MEAT BALLS | OFELLAS ASSAS |
| V. | GLAZED CUTLETS | ALITER OFELLAS |
| VI. | MEAT BALLS WITH LASER | OFELLAS GRATON |
| VII. | SEA SCORPION WITH TURNIPS | PISCES SCORPIONES RAPULATAS |
| VIII. | ANY KIND OF FISH, FRIED | PISCES FRIXOS CUIUSCUMQUE GENERIS |
| IX. | FRIED FISH | ITEM PISCES FRIXOS |
| X. | ROAST [Grilled] FISH | PISCES ASSOS |
| XI. | FRIED FISH AND WINE SAUCE | PISCES INOTOGONON |
| XII. | SARDINES, BABY TUNNY, WHITING | SARDAS |
| XIII. | FISH STEWED IN WINE | ITEM PISCES INOTOGONON |
| XIV. | STEWED MULLET WITH DILL | MULLOS ANETATOS |
| XV. | MULLET, DIFFERENT STYLE | ALITER MULLOS |
| XVI. | MURENA AND EEL | MURENAS ET ANGUILLAS |
| XVII. | SPINY LOBSTER AND SQUILL | LUCUSTAS ET ISQUILLAS |
| XVIII. | BOILED FISH | PISCES ELIXOS |
| XIX. | A DISH OF SOLE AND EGGS | PATINAS OBORUM |
| XX. | SUCKLING PIG, CORIANDER SAUCE | PORCELLO CORIANDRATU |
| XXI. | SUCKLING PIG, WINE SAUCE | PORCELLO IN OCCUCTU |
| XXII. | PORK, PAN GRAVY | PORCELLO EO IURE |
| XXIII. | PORK SPRINKLED WITH THYME | PORCELLO TYMMO CRAPSU |
| XXIV. | PICKLED PORK | PORCELLU EXOZOME |
| XXV. | LASER [sauce for] PORK | PORCELLU LASARATU |
| XXVI. | SAUCE FOR PORK | PORCELLU IUSCELLU |
| [238]XXVII. | PLAIN LAMB | AGNU SIMPLICE |
| XXVIII. | KID AND LASER | HEDU LASARATU |
| XXIX. | THRUSH, HEALTH STYLE | TURDOS APONTOMENUS |
| XXX. | TURTLEDOVES | TURTURES |
| XXXI. | SAUCE FOR PARTRIDGE | IUS IN PERDICES |
[1] Brevis cyboru could be nicely and appropriately rendered with “Menu,”—something minute, short,—but this list is not a menu in our modern sense. It is an enumeration of recipe names, a summary of dishes contained in the excerpts.
There is considerable variation in the spelling of the names here and in the following.  NEXT CRUSH A LITTLE PEPPER AND LEAVES, AND MIX AN EGG IN WITH THE DRESSING [add this to the vegetables] PRESS [into the casserole, eliminating the juice] [2].
[1] The dish resembles a chartreuse.
[2] Juice should be extracted before the addition of the egg, if the dish is to be unmoulded.
[469] Either the vegetables and chicken of ℞ No. 468 are combined with this dressing or a purée of the above cabbage, etc., is made, which will make this an integral dish. The instructions are vague enough to leave room for this choice; [239] but there can be no doubt but what we have here a formula for a vegetable purée or a pudding, a genuine “Chartreuse,” such as were prepared in the fancy moulds so popular in old Rome. The “Chartreuse,” then, is not original with the vegetarian monks of the monastery by that name, the Carthusians.
[470] A STUFFED CHARTREUSE CACCABINAM [1] FUSILEM
[Take cooked] MALLOWS, LEEKS, BEETS, OR COOKED CABBAGE SPROUTS [shoots or tender strunks] THRUSHES [roast] AND QUENELLES OF CHICKEN, TIDBITS OF PORK OR SQUAB CHICKEN AND OTHER SIMILAR SHREDS OF FINE MEATS THAT MAY BE AVAILABLE; ARRANGE EVERYTHING ALTERNATELY IN LAYERS [in a mould or in a casserole].  TASTE IT; AND WHEN WELL MIXED AND IN DUE PROPORTIONS PUT IN A SAUCE PAN AND ALLOW TO HEAT MODERATELY; WHEN BOILING ADD A PINT OF MILK IN WHICH [about eight] EGGS HAVE BEEN DISSOLVED; [next] POUR [this spiced custard] OVER [the layers of vegetables and meats, heat slowly without allowing to boil] AND WHEN CONGEALED SERVE [either in the casserole, or carefully unmould the dish on a service platter] [2].
[1] It is interesting to note how the generic terms, salacaccabia and caccabina have degenerated here. In these formulas the terms have lost all resemblance to the former meaning, the original “salt meat boiled in a pot.” Such changes are very often observed in the terminology of our modern kitchens, in every language. They make the definition of terms and the classification of subjects extremely difficult. They add much to the confusion among cooks and guests in public dining places and create misunderstandings that only an expert can explain.
[2] This dish affords an opportunity for a decorative scheme by the arrangement of the various vegetables and meats in a pleasing and artistic manner, utilizing the various colors and shapes of the bits of food as one would use pieces of stone in a mosaic. Of course, such a design can be appreciated only if the chartreuse is served unmoulded, i.e. if the cook succeeds in unmoulding it without damaging the structure.
[471] BRAISED CUTLETS OFELLAS GARATAS [1]
PLACE THE MEAT IN A STEW PAN, ADD ONE POUND [2] [240] OF BROTH, A LIKE QUANTITY OF OIL, A TRIFLE OF HONEY, AND THUS BRAISE [3].
[1] Derived from garum or œnogarum, the wine sauce. These are supposed to be meat balls or cutlets prepared with garum, but the garum is not mentioned in the formula. This also illustrates the interesting etymology of the word. It is not recognized in every-day ancient language because it is a typical technical term, the much complained-of lingua culinaria. We find, therefore, that—at least in this instance—garum no longer stands for a sauce made from the fish, garus, but that garum has become a generic term for certain kinds of sauces. Danneil renders garatus with lasaratus, which is clearly out of place.
[2] In this instance, and in several others, and also according to Sueton. Cæs. fluids were weighed. What idea could be more practical, useful and more “modern” than this? Sheer commercial greed, stubbornness, indolence have thus far made futile all efforts towards more progressive methods in handling food stuffs, particularly in the weighing of them and in selling them by their weight. Present market methods are very chaotic, and are kept purposely so to the detriment of the buyer.
[3] The original: et sic frigis.—Frigo is equivalent to frying, drying, parching; the word here has taken on a broader meaning, because the “frying” process is clearly out of question here. It appears that the terminology of frigo and that of asso in the next formula, has not been clearly defined. As a matter of fact, not many modern cooks today are able to give a clear definition of such terms as frying, broiling, roasting, braising, baking, which are thus subject to various interpretations.
[472] GLAZED CUTLETS ALITER OFELLAS
THE MEAT PIECES ARE BRAISED [1] IN BROTH AND ARE GLAZED [2] WITH HOT HONEY [3] AND THUS SERVED.
[1] Cf. note 3 to Excerpta III.
[2] unguantur.
[3] Dann. oil; G.-V. melle—honey. It is quite common to use honey for glazing foods. Today we sprinkle meats (ham) with sugar, exposing it to the open heat to melt it; the sugar thus forms a glaze or crust.
[474] Cf. Summary of Dishes, and note 1 to Excerpta III.
[2] Dann. adds cumin, due perhaps to the faulty reading of the sentence, misces cum his omnibus tritis, etc.
[475] SEA-SCORPION WITH TURNIPS PISCES SCORPIONES RAPULATOS [1]
COOK [the fish] IN BROTH AND OIL, RETIRE WHEN HALF DONE: SOAK BOILED TURNIPS, CHOP VERY FINE AND SQUEEZE THEM IN YOUR HANDS SO THAT THEY HAVE NO MORE MOISTURE IN THEM; THEN COMBINE THEM WITH THE FISH AND LET THEM SIMMER WITH PLENTY OF OIL: AND WHILE THIS COOKS, CRUSH CUMIN, HALF OF THAT AMOUNT OF LAUREL BERRIES, AND, BECAUSE OF THE COLOR, ADD SAFFRON; BIND WITH RICE FLOUR TO GIVE IT THE RIGHT CONSISTENCY. ADD A DASH OF VINEGAR AND SERVE.
 WHEN THOROUGHLY HEATED, POUR OVER THE FRIED FISH, SPRINKLE WITH PEPPER AND SERVE.
[477] [Sch. ligisticum.
[2] The fish was probably broiled on the craticula (see our illustration).
The nature of this sauce is not quite clear. If properly handled, it might turn out to be a highly seasoned mayonnaise, or a vinaigrette, depending on the mode of manipulation; either would be suitable for fried or broiled fish.
[479] FISH AND WINE SAUCE PISCES ŒNOTEGANON [1]
FRY THE FISH; CRUSH PEPPER, LOVAGE, RUE, GREEN HERBS, DRY ONIONS, ADD OIL [wine] BROTH AND SERVE.
[1] Ihm and G.-V. œnoteganon; inotogono and in the Summary of Dishes inotogonon; Sch. eleogaro. Rather an obscure term, owing to the diversity of spelling. We would call it a dish stewed in or prepared with wine, although wine is absent in the present formula. However, it is given in XIII, which bears the same name.
Dann. is obviously mistaken in styling this preparation “oil broth.”
[480] [Cold Sauce for] SARDINES MAKE THUS: SARDAS [1] SIC FACIES
CRUSH PEPPER, LOVAGE SEED, ORIGANY, DRY ONIONS, HARD BOILED YOLKS, VINEGAR, OIL; THIS MUST BE COMBINED INTO ONE [2] AND UNDERLAID.
[1] A kind of small tunny, which, like our herring, used to be pickled or salt, corresponding to the anchovy. A “sardine,” from the island of Sardinia; Sardus, the inhabitant of Sardinia.
[2] The absence of detailed instructions as to the manipulation of the yolks, oil and vinegar is regrettable; upon them depends the certainty or uncertainty of whether the ancients had our modern mayonnaise.
[481]  [When the fish is done, retire it and arrange the pieces in the serving dish, casserole, bowl or platter] BRING THE RESIDUE IN THE SAUCE PAN TO A BOILING POINT, ALLOW IT TO REDUCE SLOWLY TO THE RIGHT CONSISTENCY [Strain the sauce of the fish] SPRINKLE WITH PEPPER AND SERVE.
[1] Cf. note to XI. This œnoteganon resembles the Bouillabaisse, the famous Marseilles fish chowder. In addition to the above manner it is flavored with saffron. An excellent dish, especially with the judicious addition of onions, parsley, a suspicion of garlic and small sippets of toasted bread.
[482] MULLET STEWED WITH DILL MAKE THUS: MULLOS ANETHATOS [1] SIC FACIES
PREPARE THE FISH [clean, wash, trim, cut into pieces] AND PLACE IN A SAUCE PAN, ADDING OIL, BROTH, WINE, BUNCHES OF LEEKS, [fresh] CORIANDER, [fresh dill]; PLACE ON FIRE TO COOK. [Meanwhile] PUT PEPPER IN THE MORTAR, POUND IT, ADD OIL, AND ONE PART OF VINEGAR AND RAISIN WINE TO TASTE. [This preparation] TRANSFER INTO A SAUCE PAN, PLACE ON THE FIRE TO HEAT, TIE WITH ROUX, ADD TO THE FISH IN THE SAUCE PAN. SPRINKLE WITH PEPPER AND SERVE.
[1] From anethus—dill—which is omitted in formula. Sch. anecatos, i.e. submersos, because the original fails to state the dill in the formula. Such conjecture is not justified.
[483]  CRUSH PEPPER, LOVAGE, ORIGANY, MOISTEN WITH SOME OF THE [244] FISH’S OWN LIQUOR [from the sauce pan] ADD RAISIN WINE TO TASTE, PUT IT INTO A POT AND ON THE FIRE TO HEAT; TIE WITH ROUX AND PRESENTLY ADD IT TO THE CONTENTS IN THE SAUCE PAN [1] SPRINKLE WITH PEPPER AND SERVE.
[1] It appears that the patina mentioned in this and in the foregoing formula is either a finely wrought metal sauce pan or chafing dish, or a plainer cumana, an earthenware casserole; either of which may be used for service at the table.
It may be noticed how this manner of preparing fish has a tendency to preserve all the savory flavors and juices of the fish, a process in this respect both rational and economical.
[484] MURENA [1], EEL [2] OR MULLET MAKE THUS: MURENAM AUT ANGUILLAS VEL MULLOS SIC FACIES
CLEAN THE FISH AND CAREFULLY PLACE IN A SAUCE PAN.  IT IS NECESSARY THAT THE FISH BE ENTIRELY COVERED BY THIS LIQUOR SO THAT THERE MAY BE SUFFICIENT JUICE DURING THE COOKING.
[1] The ancients considered the murena one of the finest of fish; the best were brought from the straits of Sicily. Rich Romans kept them alive in their fish ponds, often large and elaborate marble basins called, piscina, fattened the fish, kept it ready for use. Pollio fattened murenas on human flesh, killing a slave on the slightest provocation and throwing the body into the fish pond; he would eat only the liver of such murenas. This is the only case of such cruelty on record, and it has often been cited and exaggerated.
[2] Perhaps the sea-eel, or conger, according to Dann. Also very much esteemed. The witty Plautus names a cook in one of his comedies “Congrio,” because the fellow was “slippery.”
[485] [Dressing for] SPINY LOBSTER (AND SQUILL) LOCUSTAM (ET SCILLAM) [1]
CRUSH PEPPER, LOVAGE, CELERY SEED, POUR IN VINEGAR, BROTH, YOLKS OF [hard boiled] EGGS, MIX WELL [245] TOGETHER [2] AND DRESS [the boiled shellfish meat with it] AND SERVE.
[1] Cf. Summary of Dishes.
[2] Another of Apicii hasty and laconic formulæ. No indication as to how to use the ingredients named. According to our notion of eating, there is only one way: The shellfish is boiled in aromatic water, allowed to cool off; the meat is then taken out of the shells; the above named ingredients are combined in a manner of a mayonnaise or a vinaigrette, although the necessary oil is not mentioned here. The dressing is poured over the shellfish meat, and the result is a sort of salad or “cocktail” as we have today.
[486] [Sauce] FOR BOILED FISH IN PISCIBUS ELIXIS
CRUSH PEPPER, LOVAGE, CELERY SEED, ORIGANY WHICH MOISTEN WITH VINEGAR; ADD PINE NUTS, FIGDATES [1] IN SUFFICIENT QUANTITY, HONEY, VINEGAR, BROTH, MUSTARD, MIX AND COMBINE PROPERLY AND BRING FORTH.
[1] Dann. is undecided as to whether this is dates or date wine; Goll. thinks it is mustard seed, which is not so bad gastronomically; but the original leaves no room for any doubt.
[487]  Very similar to Sole au vin blanc. Cf. ℞ No. 155.
[488]  SUCKLING PIG, WINE SAUCE PORCELLUM ÆNOCOCTUM [1]
TAKE THE PIG, GARNISH [with a marinade of herbs, etc.] COOK [roast] IT WITH OIL AND BROTH.
[1] i.e. œnococtum, cooked or prepared in wine sauce.
[2] Dann. is of the opinion that the pig is cooked in a copper vessel, because the instructions are to serve it in patinam aheneam.
[490] PIG, PAN GRAVY PORCELLUM EO IURE
ROAST THE PIG IN ITS OWN JUICE; [when done] RETIRE; BIND THE GRAVY WITH ROUX; [strain] PUT IN A SAUCE BOAT AND SERVE.
[491] PIG SPRINKLED WITH THYME PORCELLUM THYMO SPARSUM
MILK-FED PIG, KILLED ON THE PREVIOUS DAY, BOIL WITH SALT AND DILL; TRANSFER IT INTO COLD WATER, CAREFULLY KEEPING IT SUBMERGED, TO PRESERVE ITS WHITENESS. THEREUPON [make a cold dressing of the following] GREEN SAVORY HERBS, [fresh] THYME, A LITTLE FLEABANE, HARD BOILED EGGS, ONIONS, [everything] CHOPPED FINE, SPRINKLE EVERYTHING [over the pig which has been taken out of the water and allowed to drip off] AND SEASON WITH A PINT OF BROTH, ONE MEASURE OF OIL, ONE OF RAISIN WINE, AND SO PRESENT IT [1].
[1] We would first mix the liquid components of this dressing with the chopped ingredients and then spread the finished dressing over the pig. Our author, no doubt, had this very process in mind.
[492]  SHOULD THE BROTH THUS BE REDUCED [by evaporation] ADD ANOTHER PINT OF WATER. IN THIS MANNER COOK [braise] THE PIG TO PERFECTION AND SERVE IT.
[1] exodionum, and in the Summary of Dishes, exozome, i.e. oxyzomum. It is curious to note the various spellings and meanings of oxyzomum. This is supposed to be a sour sauce or an acid preparation of some kind, yet this recipe does not mention acids. In fact, the presence of honey would make it a sweet preparation. We take it, the “garnish” contains the necessary vinegar or other acids such as lemon juice, wine, etc. Oxyzomum is properly rendered “pickle.”
[2] Dann. oil, occurring twice in his version.
[3] sæpius; Dann. confusing sæpe with cæpa, renders this “onions sauce.” The same occurs to him in XXVII.
[493]  WHEN THIS HAS BEEN COOKED TIE WITH ROUX.
[495] PLAIN LAMB [1] AGNUM SIMPLICEM
OF THE SKINNED LAMB MAKE SMALL CUTLETS WHICH WASH CAREFULLY AND ARRANGE IN A SAUCE PAN, ADD OIL, BROTH, WINE, LEEKS, CORIANDER CUT WITH THE KNIFE; WHEN IT COMMENCES TO BOIL, STIR VERY FREQUENTLY [2] AND SERVE.
[1] Unquestionably the ancient equivalent for “Irish Stew.”
[2] Cf. note 3 to ℞ 492, XXIV; the presence of onion, however, would do no harm here.
[496]  WHEN DONE PUT IN THE MORTAR RUE, LAUREL BERRIES, AND THEN SERVE THE KID WHICH MEANWHILE HAS BEEN RETIRED FROM THE POT WITH ITS OWN DRIPPINGS OR GRAVY.
[1] There being only liquids for this filling of the guts, a more solid substance, such as pork forcemeat, eggs, or cereals would be required to make an acceptable filling for the casings of the kid. Furthermore sausage, for such is this in fact, must be thoroughly cooked before it can be used for the filling of the carcass, as not sufficient heat would penetrate the interior during the roasting to cook any raw dressing.
[497] THRUSH “À LA SANTÉ” TURDOS HAPANTAMYNOS [1]
CRUSH PEPPER, LASER, LAUREL BERRY, MIX IN CUMIN [2] GARUM AND STUFF THE THRUSH [with this preparation, [3]] THROUGH THE THROAT [4], TYING THEM WITH A STRING. THEREUPON MAKE THIS PREPARATION IN WHICH THEY ARE COOKED: CONSISTING OF OIL, SALT, WATER [5], DILL AND HEADS OF LEEKS.
[1] Cf. Summary of Dishes; term not identified, derived from the Greek, meaning to drive away all stomach ills.
[2] We use juniper berries today instead of cumin.
[3] Cf. note to ℞ 496, XXVIII.
[249] [4] Thrush and other game birds of such small size are not emptied in the usual way: they are cooked with the entrails, or, the intestines are taken out, seasoned, sauté, and are either put back into the carcasses, or are served separately on bread croutons. In this instance, the necessary seasoning is introduced through the throat, a most ingenious idea that can only occur to Apicius.
[5] In other instances we have pointed out where a small amount of water was used to clarify the oil used for frying foods. The presence here of water leads us to believe that the thrush were not “cooked,” i.e. “boiled” but that they were fried in a generous amount of oil; this would make the ancient process remarkably similar to the present European way of preparing thrush or fieldfare, or similar game birds.
For water used to clarify oil see note 3 to ℞ No. 250.
OPEN THEM, PREPARE [marinate] CAREFULLY; CRUSH PEPPER, LASER, A LITTLE BROTH, IMMERSE THE DOVES IN THIS PREPARATION SO THAT IT WILL BE ABSORBED BY THEM, AND THUS ROAST THEM.
[499] SAUCE FOR PARTRIDGE [1] IUS IN PERDICES
CRUSH IN THE MORTAR PEPPER, CELERY, MINT, AND RUE; MOISTEN WITH VINEGAR, ADD FIGDATE [wine], HONEY, VINEGAR, BROTH, OIL; LET IT BOIL LIKEWISE AND SERVE.
[1] This formula evidently is a fragment.
END OF THE SUMMARY OF DISHES [of the Excerpts of Vinidarius]
EXPLI [cit] BREUIS CIBORUM
[END OF THE RECIPES OF APICIUS]
TITLE PAGE, LISTER EDITION, AMSTERDAM, 1709
Lister’s second edition was printed at Amsterdam, 1709, by very able printers, the Jansson-Wæsbergs. It is a very worthy book in every respect which, as M. Græsse says in Trésor des livres rares et précieux, may be included in the collection of the Variorum.
DIAGRAM
of Apicius Manuscripts and Printed Editions, showing relation to each other and indicating the sources of the present translation.
INCIPIT CONDITUM PARADOXUM
Opening recipe No. 1, Book 1, Apicius. From the manuscript of the 9th century in the Library of the Vatican at Rome.
A Bibliography of Apician Manuscripts and Printed Editions
| Location | No. of Ms. Books |
| New York, I | 1 |
| Rome, II, IV and XVII | 3 |
| Paris, III and V | 2 |
| Florence, VI, VII, VIII and IX | 4 |
| Oxford, X and XI | 2 |
| Cesena, XII | 1 |
| Munich, XVIII | 1 |
| Not accounted for, XIII, XIV, XV, XVI | 4 |
| Total of manuscript books | 18 |
| (Doubtful as to present location, the Codex Humelbergii, cf. XI, Oxford) |
New York, Library of the Academy of Medicine, until 1930 in Cheltenham, Gloucester, Biblioth. Phillipps, 275, in the library of Sir Thomas Phillipps, a [254] codex ca. Ninth century, 4to, parchment, 275 pp., originally bound up with Phill. 386, which is said to have come from the Benedictine Abbey of St. Ghislain, founded at the end of the 7th century in the diocese of Cambrai; partly in Continental, but mostly in Anglo-Saxon minuscle of the 9th century, not unlike the Anglo-Saxon minuscle of Fulda.
Title missing. Cf. Vollmer, Studien, pp. 5-6.
The writer who has hastily inspected the manuscript in 1931 is of the opinion that three different hands wrote this book. Part of the index is gone, too. The book commences with lib. VII of the index. Bound in an 18th century French full leather binding. It was brought to America by Dr. Margaret B. Wilson and presented to the library of the A. of M. in 1931.
Rome, Vatican Library. Vat. Vrbinas, lat. 1146, Ninth century. 58 sheets, 2 blanks in the beginning and 2 at the end. Size 23.75 × 18.75 cm., heavy parchment, 20-21 lines to the page, not numbered. Sheet 1 R, illuminated by square panel in purple and gold letters (capit. quadr.) INCP || API || CÆ ||—Nothing else. Sheet 1 V—3 R the title, EPIM e || LES LI || BER I, and the titles of Book I, illuminated with columns, flowers and birds. Sheet 3 R between the foot of the columns EXPLICIVNT CAPITVLA. Sheet 3 V a panel in purple similar to sheet 1 R with inscription, INCP || CONDITV || PARADOXV. Sheet 4 R commences the text with the title, I, Conditum Paradoxum. Captions, marginal figures and initials in red. The captions are written in good uncials throughout, the first text words usually in half uncials, continuing in an even and beautiful minuscle. The Explicits and Incipits invariably in capitalis rustica. Sheet 58 V end of text with EXPLICIT LIBER X.
Traube, Vollmer and others believe that this manuscript was written in or in the vicinity of Tours in the 9th century.
Paris, lat. 10318. 8th century. Codex Salmasianus, pp. 196-203, Apici excerpta a Vinidario vir. inl. (See illustration.)
Excerpts from Apicius, 31 formulæ not found in the traditional Apicius and quite different in character. Cf. Notes on Vinidarius, preceding the Excerpta which follow the end of Book X of Apicius.
Rome, Vatican Library, Vat. Vrbinas, lat. 1145, parchment, 15th century. 51 sheets, 20 lines to the page, title, Apicius.
Paris, lat. 8209, paper, 15th century. 131 sheets, 30 lines to the page.
Florence, Laur. 73, 20. 15th century. 84 sheets, 26 lines to the page.
Florence, Laur. Strozz. 67, 15th century. 50 sheets, 23 lines to the page. Title, Apicius.
Florence, Riccardianus, 141 (L III 29), paper, 179 sheets, irregular number of lines, pp. 123-179, Apicius. 15th century.
Florence, Riccardianus, 662 (M I 26), finished April 4th, 1462, paper, 79 sheets, 26 lines to the page. Pp. 41-79 Apicius, written by Pascutius Sabinus, Bologna, 1462.
Oxford, Bodl. Canon, lat. 168 4to min. 78 pp. dated May 28th, 1490.
Oxford, Bodl. Add. B 110, 15th century, Italian, cf. H. Schenkl, Bibl. Britann. I. p. 79 n. 384 and F. Madan, A Summary Catalogue of Western Mss. in the Bodleian Library, Oxford, 1905, p. 660. Vollmer says that this Ms. belonged to a son of Humelbergius, as proven by P. Lehmann.
Cesena, bibl. municip., 14th century.
A manuscript in the library of the Sforza brothers at Pesaro which burned in 1514, known only from the catalogue. Cf. A. Vernarecci, La Libreria di Gio. Sforza in Archivio storico per le Marche e l’Umbria, III, 1886, 518, 790.
A manuscript used by Bonifaz Amerbach and Joh. Sichardus. Cf. P. Lehman, Joh. Sichardus, Quellen und Untersuchungen, IV, 1, p. 204.
The two manuscripts mentioned by Albanus Torinus, in his edition of Apicius, Basel, 1541. In 1529 Torinus found an Apicius “codex” on the island of Megalona (Maguellone) which he used for his edition of Apicius. It is almost certain that this was not a very ancient manuscript. The way Torinus speaks of it and of the (first) Venetian printed edition in his epistola dedicatoria leaves even doubt as to whether his authority was handwritten or printed. A first edition, printed ca. 1483, may have well been a dilapidated copy such as Torinus describes in 1529. Torinus admits taking some liberties with the text and failed to understand some phrases of it. Despite this fact, his text, from a culinary point [256] of view seems to be more authentic than the Humelbergius and Lister versions.
The other codex according to Torinus, was found in Transsylvania by Io. Honterus of Coronea. This codex may have served as authority for the first edition printed ca. 1483 by Bernardinus, of Venice. No other mention is made of this codex anywhere, which according to Torinus, was sent to Venice from Transsylvania. The text of the Editio Princeps, by the way, is thoroughly unreliable.
Ms. Rome, Vatican Library, lat. 6803, 15th Century.
Munich, lat. 756. Ex bibl. Petri Victorii 49. 15th century. This codex is particularly valuable and important for the identification of the Apicius text. Cf. Vollmer, Studien, pp. 10 seq.
| No. | Year of Publication | Place of Publication | Language |
| 1 | ca. A.D. 1483(?) | Venice, Italy | Latin |
| 2 | A.D. 1490(?) | Milan, Italy (doubtful) | Latin |
| 3 | A.D. 1498 | Milan, Italy | Latin |
| 4 | A.D. 1503 | Venice, Italy | Latin |
| 5 | A.D. 1541 | Basel, Switzerland | Latin |
| 6 | A.D. 1541 | Lyons, France | Latin |
| 7 | A.D. 1542 | Zürich, Switzerland | Latin |
| 8 | A.D. 1705 | London, England | Latin |
| 9 | A.D. 1709 | Amsterdam, Holland | Latin |
| 10 | A.D. 1787 | Marktbreit, Germany | Latin |
| 11 | A.D. 1791 | Lübeck, Germany | Latin |
| 12 | A.D. 1800 | Ansbach, Germany | Latin |
| 13 | A.D. 1852 | Venice, Italy | Italian |
| 14 | A.D. 1867 | Heidelberg, Germany | Latin |
| 15 | A.D. 1874 | Heidelberg, Germany | Latin |
| 16 | A.D. 1909 | Leipzig, Germany | German |
| 17 | A.D. 1911 | Leipzig, Germany | German |
| 18 | A.D. 1922 | Leipzig, Germany | Latin |
| 19 | A.D. 1933 | Paris, France | French |
| 20 | A.D. 1936 | Chicago, U. S. A. | English |
| No. | Year of Publication | Place of Publication | Language |
| 21 | A.D. 1531* | Frankfurt, Germany | Latin |
| 22 | A.D. 1534* | Frankfurt, Germany | Latin |
| [257]23 | A.D. 1535* | Antwerp, Belgium | Latin |
| 24 | A.D. 1831 | Heidelberg, Germany | German |
| 25 | A.D. 1868 | London, England | English |
| 26 | A.D. 1912 | Naples, Italy | Italian |
| 27 | A.D. 1920 | Munich, Germany | German |
| 28 | A.D. 1921 | Rome, Italy | Latin-Italian |
| 29 | A.D. 1927 | Leipzig, Germany | German |
| * Excerpts and adaptations have little relation to Apicius. |
| Total of Printed Editions, in Latin | 15 |
| Total of Printed Editions, in Italian | 1 |
| Total of Printed Editions, in German | 2 |
| Total of Printed Editions, in French | 1 |
| Total of Printed Editions, in English | 1 |
| Total of Commentaries in all Languages | 9 |
| Editions and Commentaries published in America | 1 |
| Editions and Commentaries published in Belgium | 1 |
| Editions and Commentaries published in England | 2 |
| Editions and Commentaries published in France | 2 |
| Editions and Commentaries published in Germany | 13 |
| Editions and Commentaries published in Holland | 1 |
| Editions and Commentaries published in Italy | 7 |
| Editions and Commentaries published in Switzerland | 2 |
Albanus Torinus, 1541, describes Mss. XV and XVI.
A. Vernarecci describes Mss. XIII.
P. Lehmann describes Mss. XI and XIV.
F. Vollmer describes Mss. I-XVIII.
Dr. Margaret B. Wilson describes Ms. I.
Georges Vicaire describes editions Nos. 1, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 11, 14, 15.
Theodor Drexel (Georg) describes editions Nos. 1, 5, 6, 7, 9, 10, 12, 13, 14, 15.
Elizabeth R. Pennell describes editions Nos. 1, 3, 9.
Bernhold describes editions Nos. 2, 10, 11, 12.
Fabricius describes edition No. 2.
Baron Pichon describes editions Nos. 3, 21.
In the author’s collection are editions Nos. 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20, 23, 27, 28, 29.
These summaries and descriptions of the known manuscript books and printed editions of Apicius are presented with a desire to afford the students a survey of the field treated in this volume, to illustrate the interest that has existed throughout the past centuries in our ancient book.
Copies of any Apicius edition and commentaries are scarce; famous collectors [258] pride themselves in owning one or several of them. Of the well-known collections of cookery books the most outstanding perhaps is that of Theodor Drexel, of Frankfurt on the Main, who owned nine different editions of Apicius. The Drexel catalogue forms the basis of a bibliography—Verzeichnis der Litteratur über Speise und Trank bis zum Jahre 1887, bearbeitet von Carl Georg, Hannover, 1888, describing some 1700 works.
The Drexel collection, combined with that of Dr. Freund, is now in the Staatsbibliothek in Berlin and is undoubtedly the finest collection of its kind.
Another famous collection of cookery books is described in My Cookery Books, by Elizabeth Robins Pennell, Boston, 1903, listing three of the Apicii.
The Pennell collection was destroyed by a flood in London while being stored away in a warehouse during the world war.
The most important bibliography, well-known to bibliophiles, is the Bibliographie gastronomique par Georges Vicaire, Paris, 1890. Vicaire mentions eleven Apicius editions.
The Baron Pichon and the Georges Vicaire collections are both dispersed.
Despite ardent efforts over a period of many years the writer has been unable to secure either an Apicius manuscript or the editions No. 1 and 2. The existence of No. 2 on our list is doubtful. Therefore, we do not pretend having inspected or read each and every edition described herein, but by combining the efforts of the authorities here cited we have gathered the following titles and descriptions in order to present a complete survey of the Apician literature.
Apitii Celii de re coquinaria libri decem || Suetonius Trāquillus De Claris Grāmaticis. || Suetonius Trāquillus De Claris Rhetoribus || Coquinariæ capita Græca ab Apitio posita hæc sunt || Epimeles, (etc. In Fine) Impressum Venetiis per Bernardinum Venetum.
No date, but attributed to ca. 1483-6. Given as the earliest edition by most authorities. 4to, old vellum, 30 sheets, the pages not numbered. Georg-Drexel, No. 13; Pennell, p. 111; Vicaire, col. 29.
Apicius Culinaris (sic) (cura Blasii Lanciloti In fine) Impressum Mediolani per Magistrum Guilierum de Signerre Rothomagensem. Anno Domini M CCCC LXXXX die VIII mensis Januarii.
Large 8vo. Edition disputed by bibliographers.
Ex Bernhold, præfatio, p. IX, who (we are translating from his Latin text) says, “Here is the exterior of the book as extant in the Nuremberg library, most accurately and neatly described by the very famous and most worthy physician of that illustrious republic, Dr. Preus, a friend of mine for thirty years; whose integrity, of course, is above reproach; these are his own words—The book is made in the size called large octavo. It must be mentioned that the sheets are [259] indeed large, so that the size might be styled an ordinary quarto. Fabricius, in his Bibliotheca, the newest edition, quotes a copy under this name. The entire book consists of five parts [sheets, folded into eight leaves—sixteen printed pages—stitched together] and two leaves. These five parts contain the text proper; these two sheets preceding them, are occupied by the title page, the dedication and a kind of poetic address. The text itself commences with p. 5, I should say, though there is no regular pagination. However, there are nevertheless in the lower ends of the leaves, called the limp parts, some conspicuous letters on the first four leaves of the sheets, while the remaining four leaves though belonging to the respective parts, are blank. For instance aI., aII., aIII., aIIII. Then follows the next sheet or part, signed, bI., II., III., IIII. in the same manner, with the four following leaves blank. And thus in the same manner follows sheet c, d, e. The two leaves preceding the five parts which comprise the text proper, contain the title of the book, Apicius Culinaris [sic] nowhere, to be sure, appears a note of the place or the date where and when the book was made, and on this whole first page, aside from the words already noted, there is nothing else in evidence than the picture of an angel, in the center of which there is the sign, IHS, and around the circle the following words are read, ‘Joannes de Lagniano M.’ At the feet of the angel spaces may be seen that are inscribed with the letters, I.O.L. The next page, or the verso of the title page, exhibits the dedication of Blasius Lancilotus, extending to the upper part of the third page. On this very same page occurs the poem by Ludovicus Vopiscus, addressed to Joannes Antonius Riscius, comprising five very beautiful distichs. The remaining part of the third page is finished off with the word, ‘Finis,’ while the fourth page is entirely blank. The text of Apicius commences with the fifth, as mentioned above, and from now on the leaves are numbered by letters, as previously described. At the end of the text, on the last page of the book, a poem is conspicuous, entitled, ‘Antonius Mota to the Public,’ consisting of four neat distichs, followed by another composition, containing five distichs by Joannes Salandus. And conclusion of the entire work is made with these words, ‘Printed at Milan by Master Guiliermus de Signerre Rothomagensis, in the year of the Lord 1490, on the 8th day of the month of January.’
“From this edition, the oldest as well as the rarest—with no other known earlier edition—all the variants given herewith have been collected by Goezius.” Thus far Bernhold.
The existence of this edition is doubted by Brunet, according to Vicaire. This ancient description corresponds substantially to that of Vicaire of the following edition of 1498 which Vicaire proclaims to be the first dated Apicius edition. It is interesting to note, however, what Bernhold has to say of this 1498 edition.
“Without a doubt a repetition of the preceding edition,” says he; and he goes on quoting the Bibliotheca Latina Fabricio-Ernestina (Jo. Alberti Fabricii Bibliothec. Latin. edit ab Ernesti 1708) to the effect that two editions were printed at Milan, one of 1490 by Blasius Lancilotus and one of 1498 by Guiliermus de Signerre Rothomagensis.
[260] Our inquiry at the Municipal library of Nürnberg has revealed the fact that this copy of 1490 is no longer in the possession of the library there.
Apicius Culinarius (in fine) Impressum Mediolani per Magistrum Guilerum Signerre Rothomagensem, Anno dni Mcccclxxxxviii, die xx, mensis Ianuarii.
(Ex Pennell, p. 111) First dated edition, 4to, 40 sheets, pages not numbered.
COLOPHON, MILAN EDITION, 1498
From the Lancilotus edition of Apicius, printed by Signerre, Milan, 1498, the first dated edition. The poems by Mota and Salandus are identical with the colophon of the 1503 Venice edition.
Note the date of this colophon and observe how easily it can be read for “the 8th day of January, 1490” which date is attributed to our Apiciana No. 2. This edition, as is noted, is doubtful, although several bibliographers speak about it.
[261] This copy has on the fly leaf the book plate of “Georgius Klotz, M.D. Francofurti ad Mœnum” and the autograph of John S. Blackie, 1862.
Bernhold, p. XI. Not in Georg-Drexel. Vicaire, 28; he reads Appicius [sic] Culinarius. Pennell and Vicaire read Guilerum, Bernhold Guilierum.
Vicaire’s description of this edition tallies with that of Bernhold’s and his collaborator’s account of the preceding edition. There are certain copies of this edition, bearing the following titles, Apicius de re coquinaria and Apicivs in re qvoqvinaria. Cf. Vicaire, 28-29.
Gesamtkatalog der Wiegendrucke, Leipzig, 1926, II, p. 510, places as the first printed edition Apicius in re quoquinaria [sic] printed by William de Signerre at Milan, on the 20th day of January, 1498. The second place is given Apicius de re coquinaria printed by Bernardinus de Vitalibus at Venice, no date, circa 1500 (our No. 1). This classification follows that of Brunet in 1840. Neither the Gesamtkatalog nor Brunet make any mention whatsoever of the doubtful 1490 Milan edition (our No. 2).
Vicaire, col. 33, mentioning this edition citing Bernhold, quotes Brunet as doubting the existence of this 1490 edition, but we fail to notice this expression of doubt since our Brunet is altogether silent on the subject, same as the other bibliographers.
Vicaire, col. 28-29, quotes Brunet as saying that the undated Apicius (our No. 1) despite its sub-titles of Suetonius, contains only the Apicius text, a statement confirmed by Pennell.
A search of all the available works of Joh. Alb. Fabricius—Bibliotheca Latina [Classics], Hamburg, 1722, Bibliographia Antiquaria, ib. 1760 and the Bibliotheca Latina mediæ et infimæ [middle ages], ib. 1735, has failed to reveal a trace of the 1490 Apicius, displayed by Bernhold, as described by Fabricius and as seen by Preus in the Nürnberg Municipal Library.
Our facsimile of the 1498 colophon shows how easily its date can be mistaken for “the 8th day of January, 1490,” Bernhold’s very date! Evidently an error of this kind made victims of Preus, Bernhold and Fabricius (if, indeed, he quoted it) and caused us some ardent searching among dusty tomes. We have therefore come to the conclusion that either this 1490 edition disappeared between the year 1787 and our time or else that it never existed.
Apitii Celii de re Coquinaria libri decem. || Coquinariæ capita Græca ab Apitio posita hæc sunt. || Epimeles: Artoptus: Cepurica: Pandecter: Osprion || Trophetes: Polyteles: Tetrapus: Thalassa: Halieus || Hanc Plato adulatricem medicinæ appellat || [in fine] Impressum uenetiis p Iohannem de Cereto de Tridino alias Tacuinum. M.CCCCC.III. die tertio mensis Augusti.
4to, 32 sheets, 30 lines to the page, pages not numbered, signed a-h, by 4.
TITLE PAGE, VENICE EDITION, 1503
From the Blasius Lancilotus edition, printed by Johannes de Cereto de Tridino alias Tacuinus, Venice, 1503. This is the second dated edition of Apicius, resembling very closely the undated edition and also the Milan edition, printed by Signerre 1498, the first to bear a date. Same size as the original. This is a first timid attempt at giving a book a title page. Most books printed before this date have no title pages.
On the last page of our copy are the two poems mentioned in the 1490 Milan edition (No. 2) “Antonius mota ad uulgus” (4 distichs) and “Iohannes salandi Lectori” (5 distichs). The verso of this page is blank. The dedication, on the verso of title page, is likewise by Blasius Lancilotus. It appears that this edition is closely related to No. 2.
Vicaire, 30; unknown to Georg-Drexel and Pennell.
In the collection of the author.
Cælii Apitii || svmmi advlatricis medi || cinæ artificis De Re Cvlinaria Libri X. re || cens è tenebris eruti & à mendis uindicati, || typisque svmma diligentia || excusi. || Præterea, || P. Platinæ Cremo || nensis viri undecvnqve do || ctissimi, De tuenda ualetudine, Natura rerum, & Popinæ || scientia Libri x. ad imitationem C. Api || tii ad unguem facti. || Ad hæc, || Pavli Æginetæ De || Facvltatibus Alimentorvm Tra || ctatvs, Albano Torino || Interprete. || Cum indice copiosissimo. || Basileæ || M.D.XLI. [in fine] Basileæ, Mense Martio, Anno M D X L I.
4to, old calf, 16 pp., containing title, dedication and index, not numbered but signed in Greek letters. The body of the work commences with p. 1, finishing with p. 366, the sheets are signed first in small Roman letters a-z and numbers 1-3 and then in capital letters A-Z, likewise numbered 1-3. The titles of the books or chapters, on verso of the title page, under the heading of “Katalogos et Epigraphè Decem Voluminum De Re Popinali C. Apitii” are both in Greek and Roman characters. German names and quotations are in Gothic type (black letter). The book is well printed, in the style of the Froschauer or Oporinus press, but bears no printer’s name or device.
The Apicius treatise is concluded on p. 110, and is followed by “Appendicvla De Conditvris Variis ex Ioanne Damasceno, Albano Torino Paraphraste,” not mentioned on the title. This treatise extends from p. 110 to p. 117, comprising fourteen recipes for “condimenta” and “conditvræ”; these are followed on the same page by “De Facvltatibvs Alimentorvm Ex Pavlo Ægineta, Albano Torino Interprete” which book is concluded on p. 139; but with hardly any interruption nor [263] with any very conspicuous title on this page there follows the work of Platina: “P. [sic] Platinæ Cremonensis, viri vndecvnqve doctissimi, De tuenda ualetudine Natura rerum, & Popinæ scientia, ad amplissimum D.D.B. Rouerellam S. Clementis presbyterum, Cardinalem, Liber I.” The ten books of Platina are concluded on p. 366; the type gracefully tapering down with the words: “P. [sic] [264] Platinæ libri decimi et vltimi Finis” and the date, as mentioned. The last page blank.
TITLE PAGE, LYONS, 1541
This edition, printed in Lyons, France, in 1541, by Sebastian Gryphius is said to have been pirated from the Torinus edition given at Basel in the same year. Early printers stole copiously from one another, frequently reproduced books with hundreds of illustrations with startling speed. Gryphius corrected Torinus’ spelling of “P” [Bartholomæus] Platina, but note the spelling of “Lvg[v]dvni” (Lyons). Inscription by a contemporary reader over the griffin: “This [book] amuses me! Why make fun of me?”
Strange enough, there is another edition of this work, bearing the same editor’s name, printed at Lyons, France, in the same year. This edition, printed by Gryphius, bears the abbreviated title as follows:
Cælii || Apitii Svm || mi Advlatricis || Medicinæ Artificis, || De re Culinaria libri || Decem || B. Platinæ Cremonen || sis De Tuenda ualetudine, Natura rerum & Popinæ || scientia Libri X, || Pauli Æginetæ De Facultatibus Alimentorum Tractatus, || Albano Torino Inter || prete.
The lower center of the title page is occupied by the Gryphius printer’s device, a griffin standing on a box-like pedestal, supported by a winged globe. On the left of the device: “virtute duci,” on the right: “comite fortuna”; directly underneath: “Apvd Seb. Gryphivm, Lvgvdvni [sic], 1541.” Sm. 8vo. Pages numbered, commencing with verso of title from 2-314. Sheets lettered same as Basel edition; on verso of title “Katalogos” etc. exactly like Basel. Page 3 commences with the same epistola dedicatoria. This dedication and the entire corpus of the book is printed in an awkward Italic type, except the captions which are in 6 pt. and 8 pt. Roman. The book is quite an unpleasant contrast with the fine Antiqua type and the generous margins of the Basel edition. Some woodcut initials but of small interest. The index, contrary to Basel, is in the back. The last page shows another printer’s device, differing from that on the title, another griffin.
This edition, though bearing Platina’s correct initial, B., has the fictitious title given to his work by Torinus, who probably possessed one of the earliest editions of Platina’s De honesta Voluptate, printed without a title page.
Altogether, this Lyons edition looks very much like a hurried job, and we would not be surprised to learn that it was pirated from the Basel edition.
The epistola dedicatoria, in which Torinus expresses fear of pirates and asks his patron’s protection, is concluded with the date, Basileæ, v. Idus Martias, Anno M. D. XLI., while the copy described by Vicaire appears to be without this date. Vicaire also says that the sheets of his copy are not numbered. He also reads on the title “Lvgdvni, 1541” which is spelled correctly, but not in accordance with the original. Of these two editions Vicaire says:
“Ces deux éditions portent la même date de 1541, mais celle qui a été publiée à Bâle a paru avant celle donnée à Lyon par Seb. Gryphe. Cette dernière, en effet, contient la dédicace datée.” The title page of our copy is inscribed by three different old hands, one the characteristic remark: “Mulcens me, gannis?” This copy is bound in the original vellum. Vicaire, 31, G.-Drexel, No. 12.
The work of Torinus has been subjected to a searching analysis, as will be shown throughout the book. An appreciation of Platina will be found in Platina, mæstro nell’arte culinaria Un’interessante studio di Joseph D. Vehling, by Agostino Cavalcabò, Cremona, 1935.
TITLE PAGE, HUMELBERGIUS EDITION, ZÜRICH, 1542
The Gabriel Humelbergius edition is printed by Froschauer, one of the great printers of the Renaissance. Showing the autograph of Johannes Baptista Bassus. The best of the early Apicius editions.
In Hoc Opere Contenta. || Apicii Cælii || De Opsoniis et Condimentis, || Sive Arte Coqvina || ria, Libri X. || Item, || Gabrielis Humelbergij Medici, Physici || Isnensis in Apicij Cælij libros X. || Annotationes. || Tigvri in Officina || Froschouiana. Anno, || M.D. XLII.
4to, 123 sheets, pagination commences with title, not numbered. On verso of title a poem by Ioachim Egell, extolling Humelberg. Sheet 2 the dedication, dated “Isnæ Algoiæ, mense Maio, Anno à Christo nato, M.D.XLII.” Sheet 3-4 have the preface; on verso of 4 the names of the books of Apicius. On recto of sheet 5 the chapters of Book I; on verso commences the corpus of the work with Apicii Cælii Epimeles Liber I.
The Apicius text is printed in bold Roman, the copious notes by the editor in elegant Italics follow each book. Very instructive notes, fine margins, splendid printing. Altogether preferable to Torinus. Our copy is bound in the original vellum. Inscribed in old hand by Johannes Baptista Bassus on the title.
G.-Drexel, No. 14; Vicaire, 31; not in Pennell.
Apicii Cœlii || De || Opsoniis || Et || Condimentis, || Sive || Arte Coquinaria, || Libri Decem. || Cum Annotationibus Martini Lister, || è Medicis domesticis serenissimæ Ma || jestatis Reginæ Annæ || Et || Notis selectioribus, variisque lectionibus integris, || Humelbergii, Caspari Barthii, || & Variorum. || Londini: || Typis Gulielmi Bowyer. MDCCV.
The first edition by Lister, limited to 120 copies.
8vo. The title in red and black. Original full calf, gilt. Pp. XIV + 231. Index 11 leaves, unnumbered. This scarce book is described by Vicaire, 32, but unknown to the collectors Drexel and Pennell. Our copy has on the inside front cover the label of the Dunnichen library. Above the same in an old hand: “Liber rarissimus Hujus editionis 120 tantum exemplaria impressa sunt.” On the fly leaf, in a different old hand a six line note in Latin, quoting the medieval scholar, G. J. Vossius, Aristarch. 1.13. p. 1336, on the authorship of Cœlius. Directly below in still another old hand, the following note, a rather pleasing passage, full of sentiment and affection for our subject, that deserves to be quoted in full: “Alas! that time is wanting to visit the island of Magellone [Megalona-Torinus] where formerly flourished a large town, of which there are now no other remains but the cathedral church, where, according to tradition, the beautiful Magellone lies buried by her husband Peter of Province.* Matthison’s letters, etc. pag. 269.
“‘* Jt was in the island of Magellone that Apicius’s ten books on cookery were rediscovered.’ Ibid.—Vide Fabric. Biblioth: Lat: edit. ab Ernesti. vol. 2; p. 365.”
On the verso of the title page there is the printed note in Latin to the effect that 120 copies of this edition have been printed at the expense of eighteen [267] entlemen whose names are given, among them “Isaac Newton, Esq.” and other famous men.
TITLE PAGE, LISTER EDITION, LONDON, 1705
The first Apicius edition by Martin Lister, Court Physician to Queen Anne. Printed in London in 1705 by the famous printer, William Bowyer. This is one of the rarest of the Apician books, the edition being limited to 120 copies. It has been said that the second edition (Amsterdam, 1709) was limited to 100 copies, but there is no evidence to that effect.
Lister’s preface to the reader occupies pp. I-XIV; the same appears in the 1709 (2nd) edition. The ten books of Apicius occupy pp. 1-231; the index comprises 11 unnumbered leaves; on the verso of the 11th leaf, the errata. One leaf for the “Catalogus” (not mentioned by Vicaire) a bibliography of the editor’s extensive writings, and works used in this edition principally upon nature and medical subjects. This list was ridiculed by Dr. King. Cf. Introduction by Frederick Starr to this present work. The last leaf blank. Our copy is in the original binding, and perfect in every respect.
VERSO OF TITLE PAGE
of the first Lister edition, London, 1705, giving evidence of the edition being limited to 120 copies. This edition was done at the expense of the men named in this list. Note particularly “Isaac Newton, Esq.,” Sir Christopher Wren and a few more names famous to this day.}
Apicii Cœlii || De || Opsoniis || Et || Condimentis, || Sive || Arte Coquinaria, || Libri Decem. || Cum Annotationibus || Martini Lister, || è Medicis domesticis Serenissimæ Maje || statis Reginæ Annæ, || et || Notis selectioribus, variisque lectionibus integris, || Humelbergii, Barthii, Reinesii, || A. van Der Linden, & Aliorum, || ut & Variarum Lectionum Libello. || Editio Secunda. || Longe auctior atque emendatior. || Amstelodami, || Apud Janssonio-Wæsbergios. || M D C C I X.
Small 8vo. Title in red and black. Dedication addressed to Martinus Lister by Theod. Jans. [sonius] of Almeloveen; the preface, M. Lister to the Reader, and the “Judicia et Testimonia de Apicio” by Olaus Borrichius and Albertus Fabricius occupy seventeen leaves. The ten books of Apicius, with the many notes by Lister, Humelberg and others, commence with page 1 and finish on page 277. Variæ Lectiones, 9 leaves; Index, 12 leaves, none numbered.
Vicaire, 32; Pennell, p. 112; G.-Drexel, No. 164. “Edition assez estimée. On peut l’annexer à la collection des Variorum d’après M. Græsse, Trésor des Livres [269] rares et précieux.”—Vicaire. Our copy is in the original full calf gold stamped binding, with the ex libris of James Maidment.
The notes by Lister are more copious in this edition, which is very esteemed and is said to have been printed in 100 copies only, but there is no proof of this.
Typographically an excellent piece of work that would have done justice the Elzevirs.
Cælii Apicii || de || Opsoniis || et || Condimentis || sive || Arte Coquinaria || Libri X || cum || Lectionibus Variis || Atque Indice || editit || Joannes Michæl Bernhold || Comes Palatinatus Cæsareus, Phil. et || Med. D. Serenissimo Marchioni Bran || denburgico-Onoldino-Culbacensi || A Consiliis Aulæ, Physicus Suprema || rum Præfecturarum Vffenhemensis || et Creglingensis, Academiæ Imperiali || Naturæ Scrutatorum Adscriptus.
The first edition. The title page has a conspicuously blank space for the date etc. of the publication, but this is found at the foot of p. 81, where one reads: Marcobraitæ, Excudebat Joan. Val. Knenlein, M. D. CC. LXXXVII. 8vo. Fine large copy, bound in yellow calf, gilt, with dentelles on edges and inside, by J. Clarke, the binding stamped on back, 1800. Dedication and preface, pp. XIV. The ten books of Apicius commence with p. 1 and finish on p. 81, with the date, as above. Index capitulum, pp. 82-85; Lectiones Variantes collectæ ex Editione Blasii Lanciloti, pp. 86-108, at the end of same: “Sedulo hæ Variantes ex Blasii Lanciloti editione sunt excerpta ab Andrea Gözio Scholæ Sebaldinæ Norimbergiensis Collega.” Variantes Lectiones, Lib. I. Epimeles, pp. 109-112, with a note at the head of the same that these variants occur in the Vatican MS. These four pages are repeated in the next chapter, pp. 113-130, “Variæ Lectiones Manuscripti Vaticani,” headed by the same note, the text of which is herewith given in full. Bernhold states that these Variæ Lectiones have been taken from the second Lister edition (No. 8) where they are found following p. 277. The first Lister edition does not contain these Variæ, nor does Lister have the Variantes ex Blasii Lanciloti. The following note to the Vatican variants appears in the second Lister edition also:
“Apicii collatio cum antiquissimo codice, literis fere iisdem, quibus Pandectæ Florentinæ, scripto; qui seruatur hodie Romæ in Bibliotheca Vaticana, inter libros MSS., qui fuere Ducis Vrbinatium, sed, nostris temporibus extincta illa familia Ducali, quæ Ducatum istum a Romanis Pontificibus in feudum tenuerat, Vrbino Romam translati, et separato loco in bibliotheca Vaticana respositi sunt. Contulit Henricus Volkmarus [Lister: Volkmas] Scherzerus, Lipsiensis. E bibliotheca Marquardii Gudii ad I. A. Fabricium, et, ex huius dono, ad Theodorum Ianssonium ab Almeloueen transmigrauere; qui illas suæ, Amstelodami 1709 8vo in lucem prolatæ; Apicii editioni inseri curauit.”
On pp. 131-154 are found the Lectiones Variantes Humelbergianæ, and on [270] pp. 155-156 the Lectiones differentes etc. On pp. 157-228 the Index Vocabulorum ac Rerum notabiliorum etc.; on pp. 229-30 the Notandum adhuc. One blank leaf.
Described by Vicaire, 33, who has only seen the 1791 edition; G.-Drexel, No. 165; Brunet I. 343. Neither Vicaire nor Georg-Drexel have the date and place of publication, which in our copy is hidden on p. 81.
Georg reads Apicii Cœlii instead of the above. On the fly leaf the autograph of G. L. Fournier, Bayreuth, 1791.
Bernhold has based his edition upon Lister and on the edition by Blasius Lancilotus, Milan, 1490, (our No. 2, which see.) Aside from the preface in which Bernhold names this and other Apicius editions, unknown to the bibliographers, the editor has not added any of his own observations. Being under the influence of Lister, he joins the English editor in the condemnation of Torinus. His work is valuable because of the above mentioned variants.
[Same as above] The Second Edition. Vicaire, 33. not in G.-Drexel nor Pennell.
Apitius Cœlius de re culinaria. Ed. Bernhold. 8vo. Ansbachii, 1800.
Ex Georg, No. 1076; not in Vicaire nor in Pennell. Though listed by Georg, it is not in the Drexel collection.
Apitius Cælius Delle vivande e condimenti ovvero dell’ arte de la cucina. Volgarizzamento con annotationi di G. Baseggio.
8vo, pp. 238. With the original Latin text. Venezia, 1852, Antonelli.
Ex Georg-Drexel, No. 1077.
Apici Cæli || De || Re Coquinaria Libri Decem. || Novem codicum ope adiutus, auxit, resti || tuit, emendavit, et correxit, variarum || lectionum parte potissima ornavit, stric || tim et interim explanavit || Chr. Theophil. Schuch. || Heidelbergæ, 1867.
8vo. pp. 202.
Ex Vicaire, 33; Not in G.-Drexel, not in Pennell.
[The same] Editio Secunda Heidelbergæ, 1874, [Winter].
Although G.-Drexel, No. 1075, reads Apitius Cœlius, our copy agrees with the reading of Vicaire, col. 889, appendix. Not in Pennell. Brandt (Untersuchungen [No. 29] p. 6) calls Schuch Wunderlicher Querkopf. He is correct. The Schuch editions are eccentric, worthless.
Das Apicius-Kochbuch aus der altrömischen Kaiserzeit. Ins Deutsche übersetzt und bearbeitet von Richard Gollmer. Mit Nachbildungen alter Kunstblätter, Kopfleisten und Schlusstücke. Breslau und Leipzig bei Alfred Langewort, 1909. 8vo. pp. 154.
Apicius Cælius: Altrömische Kochkunst in zehn Büchern. Bearbeitet und ins Deutsche übersetzt von Eduard Danneil, Herzoglich Altenburgischer Hoftraiteur. Leipzig: 1911: Herausgabe und Verlag: Kurt Däweritz, Herzoglich Altenburgischer Hoftraiteur Obermeister der Innung der Köche zu Leipzig und Umgebung. 8vo, pp. XV + 127.
Apicii || Librorvm X qvi Dicvntvr || De Re Coqvinaria || Qvæ Extant || Edidervnt || C. Giarratano et Fr. Vollmer || Lipsiæ in Ædibvs B. G. Tevbneri MCMXXII.
Les dix livres de cuisine d’Apicius traduits du latin pour la Première fois et commentés par Bertrand Guégan. Paris René Bonnel Éditeur rue Blanche, No. 8.
No date (in fine October 16th, 1933). Three blank leaves, false title; on verso, facing the title page (!) “du mème auteur”—a full-page advertisement of the author’s many-sided publications, past and future. Title page, verso blank. On p. ix Introduction, a lengthy discourse on dining in ancient times, including a mention of Apician manuscripts and editions. This commences on p. Li with Les Manuscrits d’Apicius. The Introduction finishes on p. Lxxviii. On p. 1 Les Dix Livres d’Apicius, on p. 2 a facsimile in black of the incipit of the Vatican manuscript, Apiciana II. On p. 3 commences the translation into French of the Apician text, finishing on p. 308. Table Analytique (index) pp. 309-322. Follow three unnumbered sheets, on the first page of which is the Justification du tirage, with the date of printing and the printer’s name, Durand of Chartres. The copies printed are numbered from 1 to 679. The copy before us is No. 2; copies 1 to 4 are printed on Montval vellum, 5 to 29 on Dutch Pannekoek vellum, the rest, 30 to 679 on Vidalon vellum paper.
Unfortunately, the present work did not reach us until after ours had gone to press. The text of this edition, the first to appear in the French language, could not be considered in our work, for this reason.
However, a few casual remarks about it may be in order here.
A hasty perusal reveals the disconcerting fact that the editor has been influenced by and has followed the example of Schuch by the adoption of his system of numbering the recipes. We do not approve of his inclusion of the excerpts of Vinidarius in the Apician text.
The observations presented in this edition are rich and varied. The material, [272] comprising the Introduction and also the explanatory notes to the recipes are interesting, copious and well-authenticated. The editor reveals himself to be a better scholar, well-read in the classics, than a practical cook, well-versed in kitchen practice. Frequently, for instance, he confounds liquamen with garum, the age-old shortcoming of the Apician scholars.
The advertisement facing the title page of this work is misplaced, disturbing.
Nevertheless, we welcome this French version which merits a thorough study; this we hope to publish at some future date. Any serious and new information on Apicius is welcome and much needed to clear up the mysteries. The advent of a few additional cooks on the scene doesn’t matter. Let them give lie to the old proverb that too many cooks spoil the broth. Apicius has been so thoroughly scrambled during the sixteen-hundred years preceding his first printing which started the scholars after him. So far, with the exception of a few minor instances, they have done remarkably well. The complete unscrambling can be done only by many new cooks, willing to devote much pain and unremunerative, careful, patient work in discovering new evidence and adding it to what there is already, to arrive at the truth of the matter.
Apicius, J. D. Vehling, the present edition.
De Re Coquinaria. Von Speisen. Natürlichen und Kreuterwein, aller Verstandt. Vber den Zusatz viler bewerter Künst, insonders fleissig gebessert und corrigirt aus Apitio, Platina, Varrone, Bapt. Fiera cet.’; Francofurti, apud Egenolfum, 1531, 4to.
Ex Bernhold, p. XIV, unknown to the bibliographers. The above is related to the following two works. Apparently, all three have little bearing on Apicius.
Polyonymi Syngraphei Schola Apiciana. Ibid. 1534, 4to.
Ex Bernhold, p. XIV., unknown to the bibliographers. Copy in the Baron Pichon collection, No. 569.
Schola || Apitiana, Ex Op || timis Qvibvs || dam authoribus diligen || ter ac nouiter constru || cta, authore Polyo || nimo Syngra || pheo. || A C Gessere Dia || logi aliquot D. Erasmi Ro || terodami, & alia quædam || lectu iucundissima. || Væneunt Antuerpiæ in ædi || bus Ioannis Steelsij. || I. G. 1535. Small 8vo. Title in beautiful woodcut border. [in fine] Typis Ioan. Graphei. M.D.XXXV.
Pagination A-I 4, on verso of I 4, device of Io. Steels, Concordia, with doves [273] on square and astronomical globe. On verso of title, In Scholam Apitianam Præfatio. Sheet A3 Mensam Amititiæ Sacram esse, etc. On sheet A6 The dialogue by Erasmus of Rotterdam between Apitivs and Spvdvs to verso of sheet A8; follows: Conviviarvm qvis nvmervs esse debeat [etc.] ex Aulo Gellio; Præcepta Cœnarvm by Horace; De Ciborvm Ratione by Michæle Savonarola [Grandfather of the great Girolamo S.]; on sheet C5 De Cibis Secvndæ Mensæ, by Paulus Aegineta; and a number of other quotations from ancient and medieval authors, partly very amusing. The Apician matter seems to be entirely fictitious.
In the collection of the author. Vicaire, 701, who also describes in detail the 1534 edition printed by Egenolph but which is not the same as the above in text.
Flora Apiciana. Dierbach, J. H. Ein Beitrag zur näheren Kenntniss der Nahrungsmittel der alten Römer. Heidelberg, 1831, Groos. 8vo.
H. C. Coote: The Cuisine Bourgeoise of Ancient Rome. Archæologia, vol. XLI.
Ex Bibliotheca A. Shircliffe.
Cesare Giarratano: I Codici dei Libri de re coquinaria di Celio. Naples, 1912, Detken & Rocholl.
Friedrich Vollmer: Studien zu dem römischen Kochbuche von Apicius. Vorgetragen am 7. Februar 1920. Sitzungsberichte der Bayerischen Akademie der Wissenschaften Philosophisch-philologische und historische Klasse Jahrgang, 1920, 6. Abhandlung. München, 1920. Verlag der Bayerischen Akademie der Wissenschaften in Kommission des G. Franzschen Verlags (J. Roth).
G. Sternajolo: Codices Vrbinati Latini.
Untersuchungen zum römischen Kochbuche Versuch einer Lösung der Apicius-Frage von Edward Brandt, Leipzig, Dietrich’sche Verlagsbuchhandlung, 1927. Philologus, Supplementband XIX, Heft III. 164 pp.
Dr. Edward Brandt, the philologist of Munich, is the latest of the Apician commentators. His researches are quite exhaustive. While not conclusive (as some of the problems will perhaps never be solved) he has shed much new light on the vexatious questions of the origin and the authors of our old Roman cookery book.
APICIANÆ FINIS
CANTHARUS, WINE CUP WITH HANDLES
Elaborate decoration of Bacchic motifs: wine leaves and masks of satyrs. Hildesheim Treasure.
 Gluttony, intemperance
ABROTANUM, —ONUM, —ONUS the herb lad’s love; or, according to most Southernwood. ABROTONUM is also a town in Africa
Absinth. ABSINTHIUM, the herb wormwood. The Romans used A. from several parts of the world. ℞ 3, also APSINTHIUM
ABSINTHIATUS, —UM, flavored with wormwood, ℞ 3
ABSINTHITES, wine tempered or mixed with wormwood; modern absinth or Vermouth, cf. ℞ 3
ABSINTHIUM ROMANUM, ℞ 3
ABUA, a small fish; see APUA, ℞ 138, 139, 147
ACER, ACEO, ACIDUM, to be or to make sour, tart
ACETABULUM, a “vinegar” cruet: a small measure, equivalent to 15 Attic drachms; see Measures
ACETUM, vinegar
—— MULSUM, mead
ACICULA, ACUS, the needle fish, or horn-back, or horn-beak; a long fish with a snout sharp like a needle; the gar-fish, or sea-needle
ACIDUM, sour; same as ACER
ACINATICIUS, a costly raisin wine
ACINOSUS, full of kernels or stones
ACINUS, —UM, a grain, or grape raisin berry or kernel
ACIPENSER, a large fish, sturgeon, ℞ 145; also see STYRIO
ACOR, —UM, sourness, tartness; the herb sweetcane, gardenflag, galangale
ACRIMONIA, acidity, tartness, sourness; harshness of taste
ACUS, same as ACICULA
Adjustable Table, illustration, p. 138
ADULTERAM, “tempting” dish, ℞ 192
Adulterations of food in antiquity, pp. 33, 39, seq. 147; ℞ 6, 7, 9, 15, 17, 18. Also see Cookery, deceptive
Advertising cooked ham, ℞ 287
Advertising ancient hotels, p. 6
Aegineta, Paulus, writer on medicine and cookery, see Apiciana, No. 5-6
AENEUM, a “metal” cooking utensil, a CACCABUS, which see; AENEUM VAS, a mixing bowl; AENEA PATELLA, a pewter, bronze or silver service platter. Aeno Coctus, braised, sometimes confused with oenococtum, stewed in wine
AËROPTES, fowl, birds; the correct title of Book VI, see p. 141
Aethiopian Cumin ℞ 35
“AFFE” (Ger.) Monkey; ℞ 55; also see Caramel Coloring
AGITARE (OVA), to stir, to beat (eggs)
AGNUS, IN AGNO, lamb; AGNINUS, pertaining
to L. ℞ 291 seq., 355, 364,
495
—— COPADIA AGNINA, ℞ 355 seq.
—— AGNI COCTURA, ℞ 358
—— ASSUS, ℞ 359
—— AGNUM SIMPLICEM, ℞ 495
—— TARPEIANUS, ℞ 363
AGONIA, cattle sacrificed at the festivals: only little of the victims was wasted at religious ceremonies. The priests, after predicting the future from the intestines, burned them but sold the carcass to the innkeeper and cooks of the POPINA, hence the name. These eating places of a low order did a thriving business with cheaply bought meats which, however, usually were of the best quality. In Pompeii such steaks were exhibited in windows behind magnifying glasses to attract the rural customer
Albino, writer, p. 10
ALBUM, ALBUMEN, white; —— OVORUM, the “whites” of egg; —— PIPER, white pepper, etc.
ALEX, (ALEC, HALEC), salt water, pickle, brine, fish brine. Finally, the fish itself when cured in A. cf. MURIA
Alexandria, the city founded by Alexander the Great, important Mediterranean harbor. A. was a rival of Rome and Athens in Antiquity, famous for its luxury
Alexandrine dishes ℞ 75, 348, seq.
ALICA, spelt. ℞ 200
ALICATUM, any food treated with ALEX, which see
ALLIATUM, a garlic sauce, consisting of a purée of pounded garlic whipped up with oil into a paste of a consistency of mayonnaise, a preparation still popular in the Provence today; finally, anything flavored with garlic or leeks
ALLIUM, garlic; also leek. Fr. AILLE
Almonds, AMYGDALA, peeling and bleaching of A. ℞ 57
[278] AMACARUS, sweet-marjoram, feverfew
AMBIGA, a small vessel in the shape of a pyramid
AMBOLATUS, unidentified term; p. 172; ℞ 57, 59
Amerbach Manuscript, Apiciana XIV
AMMI, (AMMIUM, AMI, AMIUM), cumin
AMURCA (AMUREA), the lees of oil
AMYGDALA (—UM) Almonds, ℞ 57; OLEUM AMYGDALIUM, almond oil
AMYLARE (AMULARE), to thicken with flour. AMYLATUM (AMULATUM) that which is thickened with flour. Wheat or rice flour and fats or oil usually were used for this purpose, corresponding to our present roux. However, the term was also extended to the use of eggs for the purpose of thickening fluids, thus becoming equivalent to the present liaison, used for soups and sauces. Hence AMYLUM and AMULUM, which is also a sort of frumenty
Anacharsis, the Scythian, writer. He described a banquet at Athens during the Periclean age. pp. 3, 7
ANAS, a duck or drake; ℞ 212-17. ANATEM, ℞ 212; ANATEM EX RAPIS, ℞ 214
Anchovy, a small fish; ℞ 147; cf. APUA. —— forcemeat, ℞ 138; —— sauce and GARUM (which see) ℞ 37; —— omelette ℞ 147
ANET(H)ATUM, flavored with dill; ANET(H)UM, dill, also anise
ANGUILLA, eel, ℞ 466-7, 484. cf. CONGRIO
ANGULARUS, a “square” dish or pan
ANISUM, anise, pimpinella
ANSER, goose, gander; IN ANSERE, ℞ 234; —— JUS CANDIDUM ℞ 228
ANTIPASTO, “Before the Meal,” modern Italian appetizer; the prepared article usually comes in cans or glasses, consisting of tunny, artichokes, olives, etc., preserved in oil
APER, see APRUS
APEXABO, a blood sausage; cf. LONGANO
Aphricocks, ℞ 295
APHROS, ℞ 295
APHYA, see APUA
Apician Cheesecakes, p. 9
—— cookery, influence, p. 16,
23
—— Archetypus, p. 19
—— manuscripts, p. 19, p. 253, seq.
—— Terminology, p. 22
—— dishes, compared with modern dishes, p. 23
—— sauces, p. 24
—— Style of writing, p. 26
—— research, p. 34 seq.
Apiciana, Diagram of, p. 252
Apicius, pp. 7, 9
—— The man, p. 9
—— Athenaeus on, p. 9
—— and Platina, p. 9
—— Expedition to find crawfish, p. 9
—— ships oysters, p. 10
—— school, p. 10
—— death, pp. 10, 11
—— reflecting Roman conditions, pp. 14, 15
—— authenticity of, pp. 18, 19
—— writer, p. 26, ℞ 176, 436
—— confirmed by modern science, p. 33
—— editors as cooks, p. 34 seq.
Apion, writer, quoted by Athenaeus, p. 9
APIUM, celery, smallage, parsley. ℞ 104
APOTHERMA (—UM, APODERMUM) hot porridge, gruel, pudding. ℞ 57; cf. TISANA
APPARATUS, preparation; —— MENSAE, getting dinner ready
Appetizers. ℞ 174 and others. According to Horace, eggs were the first dishes served. The “moveable appetizer” of Apicius is very elaborate, p. 210
Appert, François, ℞ 24, father of the modern canning methods
APRUS, APRUGNUS, wild boar. ℞ 329-38. APRINA, PERNA, ℞ 338, also APER
APUA (ABUA, APHYA), a small kind of fish, anchovy, sprat, whiting, white bait, or minnow. ℞ 138-9, 146, cf. Pliny. Apua is also a town in Liguria; its inhabitants APUANI
AQUA, water; —— CALIDA, hot w.; —— CISTERNINA, well w.; —— MARINA, sea w.; —— NITRATA, soda w. for the cooking of vegetables; —— RECENS; fresh, i.e., not stale w.; —— PLUVIALE, rain w.
AQUALICUS lower part of belly, paunch, ventricle, stomach, maw
Archetypus Fuldensis, manuscript, see Apiciana Diagram
ARCHIMAGIRUS, principal cook, chef, cf. Cooks’ names
ARIDA (—US, —UM) dry; —— MENTHA, dry mint
ARTEMISIA, the herb mugwort, motherwort, tarragon
ARTOCREAS, meat pie
ARTOPTES, Torinus’ title of Book II; better: SARCOPTES, minces, minced meats
ARTYMA, spice; cf. CONDIMENTUM
Asa foetida, use of —— ℞ 15, p. 23
ASARUM, the Herb foalbit, foalfoot, coltsfoot, wild spikenard
ASCALONICA CEPA, “scallion,” young onion
Asparagus, ASPARAGUS, p. 188, ℞ 72, —— and figpecker, ℞ 132, —— custard pie, ℞ 133
ASSATURA, a roast, also the process of roasting. ℞ 266-270
ASSUS, roast
ASTACUS, a crab or lobster
Athenaeus, writer, pp. 3, seq.
—— on Apicius, p. 10
Athene, Dish illustration, p. 158
ATRIPLEX, the herb orage, or orach
ATRIUM, living room in a Roman residence, formerly [279] used for kitchen purposes, hence the name, “black room,” because of the smoky walls. Like all simple things then and now, the Atrium often developed into a magnificently decorated court, with fountains and marble statues, and became a sort of parlor to receive the guests of the house
ATTAGENA (ATAGENA), heath cock, a game bird. ℞ 218, seq.
AURATA, a fish, “golden” dory, red snapper. ℞ 157, 461, 462
AVELLANA, hazelnut, filbert, Fr. AVELLINE
—— NUX, —— NUCLEUS, kernel of f. ℞
297 and in the list of the Excerpta
AVENA, a species of bearded grass, haver-grass, oats, wild oats
AVICULARIUS, bird keeper, poulterer
AVIS, bird, fowl; AVES ESCULENTAE, edible birds. —— HIRCOSAE, ill-smelling birds, ℞ 229-30, —— NE LIQUESCANT, ℞ 233
BACCA, berry, seed. —— MYRTHEA, myrtle berry; —— RUTAE, rue berry; —— LAUREA, laurel berry, etc.
Bacon, ℞ 285-90; see also SALSUM
BAIAE, a town, watering place of the ancients, for which many dishes are named. ℞ 205. BAIANUM pertaining to BAIAE; hence EMPHRACTUM ——, FABAE, etc. ℞ 202, 205, 432; Baian Seafood Stew, ℞ 431
Bakery in Pompeii, illustration, p. 2
Bantam Chicken, ℞ 237
Barracuda, a fish, ℞ 158
BARRICA, ℞ 173
Barthélemy, J. J., writer, translator of Anacharsis, p. 8
Baseggio, G., editor, Apiciana, No. 13, p. 270
BASILICUM, basil
Bavarian Cabbage, ℞ 87
Beans, ℞ 96, 189, 194-8,
247; Green —— ℞ 247; —— sauté,
℞ 203; —— in mustard, ℞ 204
—— Baian style, ℞ 202
—— “Egyptian,” see COLOCASIUM
Beauvilliers, A., French cook; cf. Styrio
Beef, p. 30; shortage of —— diet, p. 30
—— “Beef Eaters,” p. 30
—— dishes, ℞ 351, seq.
Beets, ℞ 70, 97, 98,
183
—— named for Varro, ℞ 70,
97, 98
Bernardinus, of Venice, printer, p. 258
Bernhold, J. M., editor, Apiciana, Nos. 2-3, 12-14, pp. 258, seq.
BETA, beet, which see BETACEOS VARRONES, ℞ 70
Bibliographers of Apicius, see Apiciana
Birds, Book VI, ℞ 210-227; treatment of strong-smelling —— ℞ 229, 230
BLITUM, a pot herb, the arrack or orage, also spinach, according to some interpreters
Boiled Dinners, ℞ 125
BOLETAR, a dish for mushrooms, ℞ 183
BOLETUS, mushroom, ℞ 309-14
Bordelaise, ℞ 351
Borrichius, Olaus, p. 268
BOTELLUS, (dim. of BOTULUS) small sausage, ℞ 60. BOTULUS, a sausage, meat pudding, black pudding, ℞ 60, 61, 172
BOUILLABAISSE, a fish stew of Marseilles, ℞ 431, 481
Bouquet garni, ℞ 138
BOVES, Beef cattle; cf. BUBULA
Bowls for mixing wine, etc., see Crater
—— for fruit or dessert, illustration, p. 61
Brain Sausage, ℞ 45
—— Custard, ℞ 128
—— and bacon, ℞ 148
—— and chicken with peas, ℞ 198
Brandt, Edward, Editor, Commentator, ℞ 29, 170, p. 273
BRASSICA, cabbage, kale; —— CAMPESTRA, turnip; —— OLERACEA, cabbage and kale; —— MARINA, sea kale (?)
Bread, Alexandrine, ℞ 126; Picentian ——, ℞ 125. The methods of grinding flour and baking is illustrated with our illustrations of the Casa di Forno of Pompeii and the Slaves grinding flour, which see, pp. 142, 149. Apicius has no directions for baking, an art that was as highly developed in his days as was cookery
BREVIS PIMENTORUM, facsimile, p. 234
Brissonius, writer, quoting Lambecius, ℞ 376
Broiler and Stove, illustration, p. 182
Broth, see LIQUAMEN; Barley ——, ℞ 172,
200, 201
—— How to redeem a spoiled, ℞ 9
BUBULA, Beef, flesh of oxen, p. 30, ℞ 351, 352
BUBULUS CASEUS, cow’s cheese
BUCCA, BUCCEA, mouth, cheek; also a bite, a morsel, a mouth-full; Fr. BOUCHÉE; BUCELLA (dim.) a small bite, a dainty bit, delicate morsel; hence probably, Ger. “Buss’l” a little kiss and “busseln,” to spoon, to kiss, in the Southern German dialect
BUCCELLATUM, a biscuit, Zwieback, soldier’s bread, hard tack
BULBUS, a bulbous root, a bulb, onion, ℞ 285, 304-8
BULBI FRICTI, ℞ 308
BULLIRE, to boil; Fr. BOUILLIR
[280] BUTYRUM, butter. Was little used in ancient households, except for cosmetics. Cows were expensive, climate and sanitary conditions interfered with its use in the Southern kitchen. The Latin butyrum is said to derive from the German Butter
CABBAGE, ℞ 87-92, 103; p. 188
Bavarian, ℞ 87
Ingenious way of cooking, ℞ 88
Chartreuse, ℞ 469
CACABUS, CACCABUS, a cook pot, marmite; see OLLA. Illustrations, pp. 183, 209, 223, 235. Hence: CACCABINA, dish cooked in a caccabus. See also SALACACCABIA, ℞ 468. I Exc. 470
CAELIUS, see Coelius
CAEPA, CEPA, onion; —— ARIDA, fresh onion; —— ROTUNDA, round onion; —— SICCA, dry o.; —— ASCALONICA, young o. “scallion;” —— PALLACANA or PALLICANA, a shallot, a special Roman variety
Calamary, cuttlefish, ℞ 405, p. 343
CALAMENTHUM, cress, watercress
CALLUM, CALLUS (—— PORCINUM) tough skin, bacon skin, cracklings. ℞ 9, 251, 255
CAMERINUM, town in Umbria, ℞ 3, where Vermouth was made
CAMMARUS MARINUS, a kind of crab-fish, ℞ 43
CANABINUM, CANNABINUM, hemp, hempen
CANCER, crab
Canning, ℞ 23-24
CANTHARUS, illustrations, p. 231; p. 274
CAPON, ℞ 166, 249; CAPONUM TESTICULI, ℞ 166
CAPPAR, caper
CAPPARA, purslane, portulaca
CAPPARUS, CARABUS, ℞ 397
CAPRA, she-goat, also mountain goat, chamois; Ger. GEMSE; ℞ 346-8
Caramel coloring, ℞ 55, 73, 119, 124, 146
CARDAMOMUM, cardamom, aromatic seed
CARDAMUM, nasturtium, cress
Cardoons, ℞ 112-4
CARDUS, CARDUUS, cardoon, edible thistle, ℞ 112-3
Carême, Antonin, The most talented French cook of the post-revolution period; his chartreuses compared, ℞ 186, p. 35
CARENUM, CAROENUM, wine or must boiled down one third of its volume to keep it. ℞ 35
CAREUM, CARUM, Carraway
CARICA (—— FICUS) a dried fig from Caria, a reduction made of the fig wine was used for coloring sauce, similar to our caramel color, which see
CARIOTA, CARYOTA, a kind of large date, figdate; also a wine, a date wine; ℞ 35
CARO, flesh of animals, ℞ 10; —— SALSA, pickled meat
CAROTA, CAROETA, carrot; ℞ 121-3
Carthusian monks, inventors of the CHARTREUSE, ℞ 68, see also Carême
CARTILAGO, gristle, tendon, cartilage
CARYOPHYLLUS, clove
Casa di Forno, Pompeii, “House of the Oven,” illustration, p. 2
CASEUS, cheese; ℞ 125, 303; —— BUBULUS, cow’s cheese; —— VESTINUS, ℞ 126
CASTANEA, chestnut, ℞ 183 seq.
Catesby, writer, ℞ 322
Catfish, ℞ 426
CATTABIA, see Salacaccabia
Caul Sausage, Kromeski, ℞ 45
CAULICULOS, ℞ 87-92; also Col— cul— and coliclus
Cauliflower, ℞ 87
Caviare, see STYRIO
Celery, ℞ 104
Celsinus, a Roman, ℞ 376-7
CENA, COENA, a meal, a repast; CENULA, a light luncheon; —— RECTA, a “regular” meal, a formal dinner, usually consisting of GUSTUS, appetizers and light ENTRÉES, the CENA proper which is the PIÈCE DE RESISTANCE and the MENSÆ SECUNDAE, or desserts. The main dish was the CAPUT CENAE; the desserts were also called BELLARIA or MENSAE POMORUM, because they usually finished with fruit. Hence Horace’s saying “AB OVO USQUE AD MALA” which freely translated and modernized means, “Everything from soup to nuts.”
—— AUGURALIS, —— PONTIFICALIS, —— CAPITOLINA, —— PERSICA, ——SYBARITICA, —— CAMPANAE, —— CEREALIS, —— SALIARIS, ——TRIUMPHALIS, —— POLINCTURA are all names for state dinners, official banquets, refined private parties each with its special significance which is hard to render properly into our language except by making a long story of it
—— PHILOSOPHICA, —— PLATONICA, —— LACONICA, —— RUSTICA, ——CYNICA are all more or less skimpy affairs, while the —— ICCI is that of a downright miser. —— HECATES is a hectic meal, ——TERRESTRIS a vegetarian dinner, —— DEUM, a home-cooked meal, and a —— SATURNIA is one without imported dishes or delicacies, a national dinner
—— NOVENDIALIS is the feast given on the ninth day after the burial of a dead man when his ashes were scattered while yet warm and fresh. —— DUBIA, ℞ 139, is the “doubtful meal” [281] which causes the conscientious physician Lister so much worry
The CENA, to be sure, was an evening meal, the PRANDIUM, a noon-day meal, a luncheon, any kind of meal; the JENTACULUM, a breakfast, an early luncheon; the MERENDA was a snack in the afternoon between the meals for those who had “earned” a bite
There are further CENAE, such as —— DAPSILIS, —— PELLOCIBILIS, —— UNCTA, —— EPULARIS, —— REGALIS, all more or less generous affairs, and our list of classical and sonorous dinner names is by no means exhausted herewith. The variety of these names is the best proof of how seriously a meal was considered by the ancients, how much thought was devoted to its character and arrangements
CEPA, same as CAEPA, onion
CEPAEA, purslane, sea-purslane, portulaca
CEPUROS, Gr., gardener; title of Book III
CERASUM, cherry, Fr. CERISE; Cerasus is a city of Pontus (Black Sea) whence Lucullus imported the cherry to Rome
CEREBRUM, CEREBELLUM, brains, ℞ 46
CEREFOLIUM, CAEREFOLIUM, chervil, Ger. KERBEL, Fr. CERFEUILLE
Cereto de Tridino, printer, see Tacuinus
CERVUS, stag, venison, ℞ 339-45
Cesena, a town in Italy where there is an Apicius Ms.; Apiciana XII
CHAMAE, cockles
Chamois, ℞ 346 seq.
Charcoal used for filtering, ℞ 1
CHARTREUSE, ℞ 68, 131, 145a, 186, 469-70; also see Carthusian monks and Carême
“Chasseur,” ℞ 263
Cheese, cottage, ℞ 303; also see CASEUS
Cheltenham codex, Apiciana I
Chestnuts, ℞ 183-84a
Chicken, PULLUS
—— forcemeat, ℞ 50; ——
broth, 51; —— fricassé, 56;
—— boiled, 235, 236,
242; —— and dasheens, 244;
—— creamed, with paste, 247; ——
stuffed, 248, 199, 213-17,
235; —— in cream, 250; —— disjointed,
139, note 1; —— Bantam, 237;
—— cold, in its own gravy, 237; ——
fried or sauté, 236; —— Guinea hen,
239; —— Fricassé Varius,
245; —— à la Fronto, 246;
—— Parthian style, 237; —— and leeks,
238; —— with laser, 240;
—— roast, 241; —— and pumpkin,
243; —— galantine, 249;
—— fried with cream sauce, 250; —— Maryland,
Wiener Backhähndl, 250
Chimneys on pies, ℞ 141
Chipolata garniture, ℞ 378
CHOENIX, a measure,—2 SEXTARII, ℞ 52
Chops, ℞ 261
CHOUX DE BRUXELLES AUX MARRONS, ℞ 92
Christina, Queen of Sweden, eating Apician dishes, pp. 37, 38
CHRYSOMELUM, CHRYSOMALUM, a sort of quince
CIBARIA, victuals, provisions, food; same as CIBUS. Hence CIBARIAE LEGES, sumptuary laws; CIBARIUM VAS, a vessel or container for food; CIBARIUS, relating to food; also CIBATIO, victualling, feeding, meal, repast
CIBARIUM ALBUM, white repast, white dish, blancmange. Fr. BLANC MANGER, “white eating.” A very old dish. Platina gives a fine recipe for it; in Apicius it is not yet developed. The body of this dish is ground almonds and milk, thickened with meat jelly. Modern cornstarch puddings have no longer a resemblance to it; to speak of “chocolate” blancmange as we do, is a barbarism. Platina is proud of his C.A. He prefers it to any Apician dessert. We agree with him; the incomplete Apicius in Platina’s and in our days has no desserts worth mentioning. A German recipe of the 13th century (in “Ein Buch von guter Spise”) calls C.A. “Blamansier,” plainly a corruption of the French. By the translation of C.A. into the French, the origin of the dish was obliterated, a quite frequent occurrence in French kitchen terminology
CIBORIUM, a drinking vessel
CIBUS, food, victuals, provender
CICER, chick-pea, small pulse, ℞ 207-209
Cicero, famous Roman, ℞ 409
CICONIA, stork. Although there is no direct mention of the C. as an article of diet it has undoubtedly been eaten same as crane, egrets, flamingo and similar birds
CINARA, CYNARA, artichoke
CINNAMONUM, cinnamon
CIRCELLOS ISICATOS, a sausage, ℞ 65
CITREA MALA, citron; see CITRUM
CITREUS, citron tree
CITRUM, CITRIUM, the fruit of the CITREUS, citron, citrus, ℞ 23, 81, 168. The citron tree is also MALUS MEDICA. “MALUS QUAE CITRIA VOCANTUR”; CONDITURA MALORUM MEDICORUM, Ap. Book I.; Lister thinks this is a cucumber
CITRUS, orange or lemon tree and their fruits. It is remarkable that Apicius does not speak of lemons, one of the most indispensable fruits in modern cookery which grow so profusely in Italy today. These were imported into Italy probably later. The ancients called a number of other trees CITRUS also, including the cedar, the very name of which is a corruption of CITRUS
Classic Cookery, pp. 16-17
CLIBANUS, portable oven; also a broad vessel for bread-making, a dough trough
CNECON, ℞ 16
CNICOS, CNICUS, CNECUS, bastard saffron; also the blessed thistle
CNISSA, smoke or steam arising from fat or meat while roasting
COCHLEAE, snails, also sea-snails, “cockles,” periwinkles, [282] ℞ 323-25. —— LACTE PASTAE, milk-fed snails. COCHLEARIUM, a snail “farm,” place where snails were raised and fattened for the table.  COCHLEOLA, a small snail
COCOLOBIS, basil, basilica
COCTANA, COTANA, COTTANA, COTONA, a small dried fig from Syria
COCTIO, the act of cooking or boiling
COCTIVA CONDIMENTA, easy of digestion, not edible without cooking. COCTIVUS, soon boiled or roasted
COCTOR, cook, which see; same as COQUUS
COCULA, same as COQUA, a female cook
COCULUM, a cooking vessel
COCUS, COQUUS, cook, which see
Coelius, name of a person, erroneously attached to that of Apicius; also Caelius, p. 13
COLADIUM, —EDIUM, —ESIUM, —OESIUM, variations of COLOCASIUM, which see
Colander, illustration of a, p. 58
COLICULUS, CAULICULUS, a tender shoot, a small stalk or stem, ℞ 87-92
COLO, to strain, to filter, cf. ℞ 73
COLOCASIA, COLOCASIUM, the dasheen, or taro, or tanyah tuber, of which there are many varieties; the root of a plant known to the ancients as Egyptian Bean. Descriptions in the notes to the ℞ 74, 154, 172, 200, 244 and 322
COLUM NIVARIUM, a strainer or colander for wine and other liquids. See illustration, p. 58
COLUMBA, female pigeon; COLUMBUS, the male; COLUMBULUS, —A, squab, ℞ 220. Also used as an endearing term
Columella, writer on agriculture; —— on bulbs, ℞ 307; —— mentioning Matius, ℞ 167
COLYMBADES (OLIVAE), olives “swimming” in the brine; from COLYMBUS, swimming pool
Combination of dishes, ℞ 46
Commentaries on Apicius, p. 272
Commodus, a Roman, ℞ 197
Compôte of early fruit, ℞ 177
CONCHA, shellfish muscle, cockle scallop, pearl oyster; also the pearl itself, or mother-of-pearl; also any hollow vessel resembling a mussel shell (cf. illustration, p. 125) hence CONCHA SALIS PURI, a salt cellar. Hence also CONCHIS, beans or peas cooked “in the shell” or in the pod; and diminutives and variations: CONCHICLA FABA, (bean in the pod) for CONCHICULA, which is the same as CONCHIS and CONCICLA; ℞ 194-98, 411. —— APICIANA, ℞ 195; —— DE PISA, ℞ 196; —— COMMODIANA, ℞ 197; —— FARSILIS, ℞ 199
CONCHICLATUS, ℞ 199
CONCRESCO, grow together, run together, thicken, congeal, also curdle, etc., same as CONCRETIO, CONCRETUM
CONDIO, to salt, to season, to flavor; to give relish or zest, to spice, to prepare with honey or pepper, and also (since spicing does this very thing) to preserve
CONDITIO, laying up, preserving. CONDITIVUS, that which is laid up or preserved, same as CONDITUM
CONDITOR, one who spices. Ger. Konditor, a pastry maker
CONDIMENTARIUS, spice merchant, grocer
CONDIMENTUM, condiment, sauce, dressing, seasoning, pickle, anything used for flavoring, seasoning, pickling —— VIRIDE green herbs, pot herbs; cf. CONDITURA. —— PRO PELAMIDE, ℞ 445; —— PRO THYNNO, ℞ 446; —— IN PERCAM, ℞ 447; —— IN RUBELLIONEM, ℞ 448; —— RATIO CONDIENDI MURENAS, ℞ 449; —— LACERTOS, ℞ 456; —— PRO LACERTO ASSO, ℞ 457; —— THYNNUM ET DENTICEM, ℞ 458; —— DENTICIS, ℞ 460; —— IN DENTICE ELIXO, ℞ 461; —— AURATA, ℞ 462; —— IN AURATAM ASSAM, ℞ 463; —— SCORPIONES, ℞ 464; —— ANGUILLAM, ℞ 466; —— ALIUD —— ANGUILLAE, ℞ 467
CONDITUM, preserved, a preserve; cf. CONDIO;
—— MELIRHOMUM, ℞ 2; —— ABSINTHIUM
ROMANUM, ℞ 3; —— PARADOXUM, ℞ 1; ——
VIOLARUM, ℞ 5
—— Paradoxum, facsimile of Vat. Ms., p. 253
CONDITURA, a pickle, a preserve, sauce, seasoning,
marinade; the three terms, C., CONDITUM
and CONDIMENTUM are much the same in
meaning, and are used indiscriminately. They
also designate sweet dishes and desserts of different
kinds, including many articles known to us
as confections. Hence the German, KONDITOR,
for confectioner, pastry cook. Nevertheless, a
general outline of the specific meanings of these
terms may be gathered from observing the nature
of the several preparations listed under these
headings, particularly as follows: —— ROSATUM,
℞ 4; (cf. No. 5) ——
MELLIS, ℞ 17; —— UVARUM,
℞ 20; —— MALORUM PUNICORUM,
℞ 21; —— COTONIORUM, ℞ 19;
—— FICUUM, PRUNORUM, PIRORUM, ℞ 20; —— MALORUM
MEDICORUM, ℞ 21; —— MORORUM,
℞ 25; —— OLERUM, ℞ 26;
—— RUMICIS, ℞ 27; —— LAPAE, ℞
27; —— DURACINORUM, ℞ 29; ——
PRUNORUM, etc., ℞ 30
—in most of these instances corresponds to our
modern “preserving”
CONGER, CONGRIO, CONGRUS, sea-eel, conger. CONGRUM QUEM ANTIATES BRUNCHUM APPELLANT,—Platina, cf. ANGUILLA. Plautus uses this fish name to characterize a very cunning person, a “slippery” fellow. A cook is thus called CONGRIO in one of his plays
[283] CONILA, CUNILA, a species of the plant ORIGANUM, origany, wild marjoram. See SATUREIA
CONYZA, the viscous elecampane
Cook, COCUS, COQUUS is the most frequent form used, COCTOR, infrequent. COQUA, COCULA, female cook; though female cooks were few. The word is derived from COQUERE, to cook, which seems to be an imitation of the sound, produced by a bubbling mess
The cook’s work place (formerly ATRIUM, the “black” smoky room) was the CULINA, the kitchen, hence in the modern Romance tongues CUISINE, CUCINA, COCINA. Those who work there are CUISINIERS, COCINEROS, the female a CUISINIÈRE, and so forth
The German and Swedish for “kitchen” are KÜCHE and KÖKET, but the words “cook” and “KOCH” are directly related to COQUUS
A self-respecting Roman cook, especially a master of the art, having charge of a crew, would assume the title of MAGIRUS, or ARCHIMAGIRUS, chief cook. This Greek—“MAGEIROS”—plainly shows the high regard in which Greek cookery stood in Rome. No American CHEF would think of calling himself “chief cook,” although CHEF means just that. The foreign word sounds ever so much better both in old Rome and in new New York. MAGEIROS is derived from the Greek equivalent of the verb “to knead,” which leads us to the art of baking. Titles and distinctions were plentiful in the ancient bakeshops, which plainly indicates departmentisation and division of labor
The PISTOR was the baker of loaves, the DULCIARIUS the cake baker, using honey for sweetening. Martial says of the PISTOR DULCIARIUS, “that hand will construct for you a thousand sweet figures of art; for it the frugal bee principally labors.” The PANCHESTRARIUS, mentioned in Arnobius, is another confectioner. The LIBARIUS still another of the sweet craft. The CRUSTULARIUS and BOTULARIUS were a cookie baker and a sausage maker respectively
The LACTARIUS is the milkman; the PLACENTARIUS he who makes the PLACENTA, a certain pancake, also a kind of cheese cake, often presented during the Saturnalia. The SCRIBLITARIUS belongs here, too: in our modern parlance we would perhaps call these two “ENTREMETIERS.” The SCRIBLITA must have been a sort of hot cake, perhaps an omelet, a pancake, a dessert of some kind, served hot; maybe just a griddle cake, baked on a hot stone, a TORTILLA—what’s the use of guessing! but SCRIBLITAE were good, for Plautus, in one of his plays, Poenulus, shouts, “Now, then, the SCRIBLITAE are piping hot! Come hither, fellows!” Not all of them did eat, however, all the time, for Posidippus derides a cook, saying, CUM SIS COQUUS, PROFECTUS EXTRA LIMEN ES, CUM NON PRIUS COENAVERIS, “What? Thou art a cook, and hast gone, without dinner, over the threshold?”
From the FOCARIUS, the scullion, the FORNACARIUS, the fireman, or furnace tender, and the CULINARIUS, the general kitchen helper to the OBSONATOR, the steward, the FARTOR to the PRINCEPS COQUORUM, the “maître d’hôtel” of the establishment we see an organization very much similar to our own in any well-conducted kitchen
The Roman cooks, formerly slaves in the frugal days of the nation, rose to great heights of civic importance with the spread of civilization and the advance of luxury in the empire. Cf. “The Rôle of the Mageiroi in the Life of the Ancient Greeks” by E. M. Rankin, Chic., 1907, and “Roman Cooks” by C. G. Harcum, Baltimore, 1914, two monographs on this subject
Cookery, Apician, as well as modern c., discussed
in the critical review of the Apicius book
—— examples of deceptive c. in Apicius,
℞ 6, 7, 9,
17, 229, 230,
384, 429
—— of flavoring and spicing, ℞ 15,
277, 281, 369
—— deserving special mention for ingenuity and
excellence, ℞ 15, 21, 22,
72, 88, 177,
186, 212, 213,
214, 250, 287,
315, 428
—— modern Jewish, resembling Apicius, ℞ 204 seq.
—— examples of attempts to remove disagreeable
odors, ℞ 212-14, 229, 230,
292
—— removing sinews from fowl, ℞ 213
—— utensils, p. 15
Coote, C. T., commentator, pp. 19, 273
COPA, a woman employed in eating places and taverns, a bar maid, a waitress, an entertainer, may be all that in one person. One of the caricatures drawn on a tavern wall in Pompeii depicts a COPA energetically demanding payment for a drink from a reluctant customer, p. 7
COPADIA, dainties, delicate bits, ℞ 125, 179, 180, 271, 276, seq., 355
Copper in Vegetable Cookery, ℞ 66
Copyists and their work, p. 14
COQUINA, cooking, kitchen. COQUINARIS, —IUS, relating to the kitchen. COQUO, —IS, COXI, COCTUM, COQUERE, to cook, to dress food, to function in the kitchen, to prepare food for the table. See cook
COR, heart
CORIANDRUM, the herb coriander; CORIANDRATUM, flavored with c.; LIQUAMEN EX CORIANDRO, coriander essence or extract
Corn, green, ℞ 99
CORNUM, cornel berry; “CORNA QUAE VERGILIUS LAPIDOSA VOCAT”—Platina
CORNUTUS, horn-fish, ℞ 442
CORRUDA, the herb wild sparrage, or wild asparagus
[284] CORVUS, a kind of sea-fish, according to some the sea-swallow. Platina describes it as a black fish of the color of the raven (hence the name), and ranks it among the best of fish, cf. STURNUS
COTANA, see COCTANA
COTICULA (CAUDA?), minor cuts of pork, either spareribs, pork chops, or pig’s tails
COTONEA, a herb of the CUNILA family, wallwort, comfrey or black bryony
COTONEUM, COTONEUS, COTONIUS, CYDONIUS, quince-apple, ℞ 163
COTULA, COTYLA, a small measure, ½ sextarius
COTURNIX, quail
COSTUM, COSTUS, costmary; fragrant Indian shrub, the root of burning taste but excellent flavor
Court-bouillon, ℞ 37, 138
Cow-parsnips, p. 188, ℞ 115-122, 183
COXA, ℞ 288
Crabs, ℞ 485; crabmeat croquettes, ℞ 44
Crane, ℞ 212, 213, p. 265. Crane with turnips, ℞ 214-17
CRATER, CRATERA, a bowl or vessel to mix wine and water; also a mixing bowl and oil container—see illustrations, p. 140
CRATICULA, grill, gridiron; illustration, p. 182
CREMORE, DE—, ℞ 172
CRETICUM HYSOPUM, ℞ 29, Cretan hyssop
CROCUS, —OS, —ON, —UM, saffron; hence CROCEUS, saffron-flavored, saffron sauce or saffron essence. CROCIS, a certain herb or flavor, perhaps saffron
Croquettes, ℞ 42, seq.
Cucumber, CUCUMIS, ℞ 82-84
CUCURBITA, pumpkin, gourd, ℞ 73-80, 136
CULINA, kitchen; CULINARIUS, man employed in the kitchen; pertaining to the kitchen
CULTER, a knife for carving or killing; the blade from 9 to 13 inches long
CUMANA, earthen pot or dish; casserole, ℞ 237
Cumberland sauce, ℞ 345
CUMINUM, CYMINUM, cumin; CUMINATUM, —US, sauce or dish seasoned with cumin, ℞ 39, 40. Aethiopian, Libyan, and Syriac cumin are named, ℞ 178
CUNICULUS, rabbit, cony
CUNILAGO, a species of origany, flea-bane, wild marjoram, basilica
CUPELLUM, CUPELLA, dim., of CUPA, a small cask or tun. Ger. KUFE; a “cooper” is a man who makes them
CURCUMA ZEODARIA, turmeric
Custard, brain, ℞ 27; —— nut, ℞ 128, 142; —— of vegetables and brain, ℞ 130; —— of elderberries, ℞ 134; —— rose, ℞ 135; see also ℞ 301
CYATHUS, a measure, for both things liquid and things dry, which according to Pliny 21.109, amounted to 10 drachms, and, according to Rhem. Fann. 80., was the 12th part of a SEXTARIUS, roughly one twelfth pint. Also a goblet, and a vessel for mixing wine, ℞ 131
CYDONIIS, PATINA DE, ℞ 163, see also Malus
CYMA, young sprout, of colewort or any other herb; also cauliflower, ℞ 87-9-92
CYPERUS, CYPIRUS, a sort of rush with roots like ginger, see MEDIUM
CYRENE, a city of Africa, famous for its Laser Cyrenaicum, the best kind of laser, which see. Also Kyrene
DACTYLIS, long, “finger-like” grape or raisin; —US, long date, fruit of a date tree, ℞ 30
DAMA, a doe, deer, also a gazelle, antilope (DORCAS). In some places the chamois of the Alps is called DAMA
DAMASCENA [PRUNA], plum or prune from Damascus, ℞ 30. Either fresh or dried
Danneil, E., editor, pp. 33-34, 35, 271
Dasheen, ℞ 74, 152, 172, 216, 244, 322
Dates, stuffed, ℞ 294
DAUCUM, —US, —ON, a carrot
DE CHINE, see Dasheen
“Decline of the West,” p. 17
DECOQUO, to boil down
DEFRUTARIUS, one who boils wine; CELLA DEFRUTARIA, a cellar where this is done, or where such wine is kept
DEFRUTUM, DEFRICTUM, DEFRITUM, new wine boiled down to one half of its volume with sweet herbs and spices to make it keep. Used to flavor sauces, etc., see also Caramel color
DENTEX, a sparoid marine fish, “Tooth-Fish,” ℞ 157, 459-60
Dessert Dishes, illustrations, pp. 61, 125
Desserts, absent, p. 43
Desserts, Apician, ℞ 143, 294, seq.
DIABOTANON PRO PISCE FRIXO, ℞ 432
Diagram of Apician editions, p. 252
Didius Julianus, ℞ 178
Dierbach, H. J., commentator, p. 273
Dining in Apician style, modern, p. 37
—— in Rome, compared with today,
pp. 17, 18
Diocles, writer, ℞ 409
Dionysos Cup, illustration, p. 141
Dipper, illustrated, p. 3
[285] DISCUS, round dish, plate or platter
Disguising foods, ℞ 133, pp. 33-4
Distillation, see Vinum
Dormouse, ℞ 396
Doves, p. 265
Drexel, Theodor, collector, pp. 257-8
Dubois, Urbain, chef, p. 16
Duck, p. 265, ℞ 212-3; —— with turnips, ℞ 214-7
DULCIA, sweets, cookies, confections, ℞ 16, 216,
294-6
—RIUS, pastry cook, ℞ 294
Dumas, Alexandre, cooking, p. 24
Dumpling of pheasant, ℞ 48; —— and HYDROGARUM, ℞ 49; —— with broth, plain, ℞ 52, 181
DURACINUS, hard-skinned, rough-skinned fruit; —— PERSICA, the best sort of peach, according to some, nectarines, ℞ 28
Early fruit, stewed, ℞ 177
ECHINUS, sea-urchin, ℞ 412-17
Economical methods: flavoring, ℞ 15
EDO, to eat; great eater, gormandizer, glutton
EDULA, chitterlings
Eel, ℞ 466-7
Egg Dish, illustration, p. 93
Eggs, ℞ 326-28; —— fried, ℞ 336; —— boiled, ℞ 327; —— poached, ℞ 328; —— scrambled with fish and oysters, ℞ 159
Eglantine, ℞ 171
Egyptian Bean, ℞ 322; also see CYAMUS
ELAEOGARUM, ℞ 33
Elderberry custard, ℞ 135
ELIXO, to boil, boil down, reduce. —US, —UM, boiled down, sodden, reduced. According to Platina an ELIXUM simply is a meat bouillon as it is made today. ELIXATIO, a court-bouillon, liquid boiled down; ELIXATURA, a reduction
EMBAMMA, a marinade, a pickle or sauce to preserve food, to give it additional flavor; same as INTINCTUS, ℞ 344
EMBRACTUM, EMPHRACTUM, a dish “covered over”; a casserole of some kind. E. BAIANUM, ℞ 431
Endives, ℞ 109
Enoche of Ascoli, medieval scholar, cf. Apiciana
Entrées, potted, ℞ 54, 55; —— sauces, ℞ 56; —— of fish, poultry and sausage, ℞ 139; —— of fowl and livers, ℞ 175
EPIMELES, careful, accurate; choice things. Title of Book I
Erasmus of Rotterdam, Dialogue, p. 273
ERUCA, the herb rocket, a colewort, a salad plant, a mustard plant
ERVUM, a kind of pulse like vetches or tares
ESCA, meat, food, victuals; ESCO, to eat
Escoffier, A. modern chef, writer, ℞ 338
ESCULENTES, things good to eat
ESTRIX, she-glutton
ESUS, eating
EXCERPTA A VINIDARIO, p. 235
Excerpts from Apicius by Vinidarius, pp. 21, 234
EXCOQUO, to boil out, to melt, to render (fats)
FABA, bean, pulse. —— AEGYPTIACA, ℞ 322; —— IN FRIXORIO, string beans in the frying pan, Fr.: HARICOTS VERTS SAUTÉS; —— VITELLIANA, ℞ 189, 193
FABACIAE VIRIDES, green bean, ℞ 202; —— FRICTAE, ℞ 203; —— EX SINAPI, ℞ 204
Fabricius, Albertus, bibliographer, pp. 258, seq., 268
“Fakers” of manuscripts, p. 13
FALSCHER HASE, ℞ 384
FAR, corn or grain of any kind, also spelt; also a sort of coarse meal
Farce, forcemeat, ℞ 131
FARCIMEN, sausage, ℞ 62-64
FARCIO, to fill, to stuff; also to feed by force, cram, fatten
FARINA, meal, flour, ℞ 173; —OSUS, mealy
FARNEI FUNGI, ℞ 309
FARRICA, ℞ 173
FASEOLUS, PHASEOLUS, a bean; Ger.: Fisole, ℞ 207
FARSILIS, FARTILIS, a rich dish, something crammed or fattened, ℞ 131
FARTOR, sausage maker; keeper of animals to be fattened, ℞ 166, 366
FARTURA, the fattening of animals; also the dressing used to stuff the bodies in roasting, forcemeat, ℞ 166, 366
FENICULUM, FOENI—, fennel
FENUM GRAECUM, FOEN—; the herb fenugreek, also SILICIA, ℞ 206
FERCULUM, a frame or tray on which several dishes were brought in at once, hence a course of dishes
FERULA, a rod or branch, fennel-giant; —— ASA FOETIDA, same as LASERPITIUM
FICATUM, fed or stuffed with figs, ℞ 259-60
FICEDULA, small bird, figpecker, ℞ 132
FICUS, fig, fig tree, FICULA, small fig
Field herbs, ℞ 107; Field salad, ℞ 110; a dish of field vegetables, ℞ 134
Fieldfare, a bird, ℞ 497
Figpecker, a bird, ℞ 132
Figs, to preserve, ℞ 22
Filets Mignons, ℞ 262
Filtering liquors, ℞ 1
Financière garniture, ℞ 166, 378
Fine ragout of brains and bacon, ℞ 147
Fine spiced wine, ℞ 1
Fish cookery, “The Fisherman,” title of Book X; —— boiled, ℞ 432, 4, 5, 6, 455; —— fried, herb [286] sauce, ℞ 433; —— to preserve fried fish, ℞ 13; —— with cold dressing, ℞ 486; —— baked, ℞ 476-7; —— balls in wine sauce, ℞ 145, 164; —— fond, ℞ 155; a dish of any kind of ——, ℞ 149, 150, 156; —— au gratin, ℞ 143; —— loaf, ℞ 429; —— liver pudding, ℞ 429; —— pickled, spiced, marinated, ℞ 480; —— oysters and eggs, ℞ 157; —— salt, any style, ℞ 430, 431; stew, ℞ 153, 432; —— sauce, acid, ℞ 38-9
Flaccus, a Roman, ℞ 372
Flavors and spices, often referred to, especially in text; instances of careful flavoring, ℞ 15, 276-77. Flavoring with faggots, ℞ 385, seq.
Florence Mss. Apiciana VI, VII, VIII, IX
FLORES SAMBUCI, elder blossoms
Fluvius Hirpinus, Roman, ℞ 323, 396; a man interested in raising snails, dormice, etc., for the table
FOCUS, hearth, range; unusually built of brick, on which the CRATICULA stood. Cf. illustrations, p. 182
FOLIUM, leaf, aromatic leaves such as laurel, etc. —— NARDI, several kinds, nard leaf. The Indian nard furnishes nard oil, the Italian lavender
FONDULI, see SPHONDULI, ℞ 114, 121
Food adulterations, pp. 33, 34
Food disguising and adulteration, p. 33, ℞ 6,
7, 134, 147;
—— displayed in Pompeii, p. 7
Fowl, p. 265; a dish of, ℞ 470; —— and livers, ℞ 174; various dishes and sauce, ℞ 218, seq. Picking ——, ℞ 233; Removing disagreeable odors from ——, ℞ 229-30
French Dressing, ℞ 112
French Toast, ℞ 296
FRETALE, FRIXORIUM, FRICTORIUM, frying pan, illustrations, pp. 355, 366; cf. SARTAGO
FRICTELLA, fritter; “A FRICTO DICI NULLA RATIO OBSTAT”—Platina. Ger. “Frikadellen” for meat balls fried in the pan. “De OFFELLIS, QUAS VEL FRICTELLAS LICET APPELLARE”—Platina
FRICTORIUM, FRIXORIUM, same as FRETALE, frying pan
FRISILIS, FRICTILIS, FUSILIS, ℞ 131
FRITTO MISTO (It.), ℞ 46
Friture, (Fr.) frying fat, ℞ 42, seq.
FRIXUS, roast, fried, also dried or parched, term which causes some confusion in the several editions
Frontispice, 2nd Lister Edition, illustration, p. 156
FRUGES, farinaceous dishes
Fruit dishes, ℞ 64, 72; Fruits, p. 210; —— dried,
Summary, p. 370
—— Bowl illustration, pp. 61,
125
FRUMENTUM, grain, wheat or barley
Frying, ℞ 42, seq.
Frying pans, illustrated, cf. FRETALE and SARTAGO
Fulda Ms., cf. Apiciana
FUNGUS, mushroom; —ULUS, small m.; see BOLETUS —— FARNEI, ℞ 309, seq.
FURCA, a two-pronged fork; —ULA, —ILLA (dim.) a small fork. FUSCINA, —ULA, a three-pronged fork. Cf. “Forks and Fingerbowls as Milestones in Human Progress,” by the author, Hotel Bulletin and The Nation’s Chefs, Chicago, Aug., 1933, pp. 84-87
FURNUS, oven, bake oven. See illustration, p. 2
GALLINA, hen; —ULA, little hen; —ARIUS, poulterer
GALLUS, cock
Game of all kinds, sauce for, ℞ 349
—— birds, ℞ 218, seq.
GANONAS CRUDAS, fish, ℞ 153
GARATUM, prepared with GARUM, which see
Gardener, The—Title of Book III, ℞ 377
GARUM (Gr.: GARON) a popular fish sauce made chiefly of the scomber or mackerel, but formerly from the GARUS, hence the name, cf. p. 22, ℞ 10, 33, 471
Mackerel is the oiliest fish, and plentiful, very well suited for the making of G.
G. was also a pickle made of the blood and the gills of the tunny and of the intestines of mackerel and other fish. The intestines were exposed to the sun and fermented. This has stirred up controversies; the ancients have been denounced for the “vile concoctions,” but garum has been vindicated by modern science as to its rational preparation and nutritive qualities. Codfish oil, for instance, has long been known for its medicinal properties, principally Vitamin D; this is being increased today by exposure to ultraviolet rays (just what the ancients did). The intestines are the most nutritious portions of fish
G. still remains a sort of mystery. Its exact mode of preparation is not known. It was very popular and expensive, therefore was subject to a great number of variations in quality and in price, and to adulteration. For all these reasons GARUM has been the subject of much speculation. It appears that the original meaning of G. became entirely lost in the subsequent variations
In 1933 Dr. Margaret B. Wilson sent the author a bottle of GARUM ROMANUM which she had compounded according to the formulae at her disposal. This was a syrupy brown liquid, smelled like glue and had to be dissolved in water or wine, a few drops of the G. to a glass of liquid, of which, in turn, only a few drops were used to flavor a fish sauce, etc.
—— SOCIORUM, the best kind of G.; ALEXGARI [287] VITIUM, the cheap kind of G., cf. ALEX, HALEC. OENOGARUM, G. mixed with wine; HYDROGARUM, G. mixed with water; OLEOGARUM, G. mixed with oil; OXYGARUM, G. mixed with vinegar
GARUS, small fish from which the real GARUM was made
GELO, cause to freeze, to congeal; GELU, jelly
GELU IN PATINA, gelatine: “QUOD VULGO
GELATINAM VOCAMUS”—Platina
Georg, Carl, Bibliographer, p. 257
Gesamt-Katalog, bibliography, p. 261
Gesner, Conrad, Swiss scientist, bibliographer, polyhistor, see Schola Apitiana, p. 206
GETHYUM, —ON, same as PALLACANA, an onion
Giarratano, C., editor, Apiciana, pp. 18, 19, 26, 271, 273
GINGIBER, ginger; also ZINGIBER, faulty reading of the “G” by medieval scribes
GINGIDON, —IUM, a plant of Syria; according to Spengel the French carrot. Paulus Aegineta says: “BISACUTUM (SIC ENIM ROMANI GINGIDION APPELLANT) OLUS EST SCANDICI NON ABSIMILE,” hence a chervil root, or parsnip, or oysterplant
GLANDES, any kernel fruit, a date, a nut, etc.
Glasse, Mrs. Hannah, writer, ℞ 127
GLIS, pl. GLIRES, dormouse, a small rodent, very much esteemed as food. GLIRARIUM, cage or place where they were kept or raised, ℞ 396
Gluttons, p. 11
Goat, wild, ℞ 346, seq. —— liver, ℞ 291-3
Gollmer, R., editor, Apiciana, pp. 18, 35, 270
GONG for slaves, illustration, p. 151
Goose, p. 265; white sauce for, ℞ 228
Grapes, to keep, ℞ 19
Greek influence on Roman cookery, p. 12, seq.
—— Banquet, by Anacharsis, p. 8
Greek monographs, p. 43
Green beans, p. 247, ℞ 202, 206
Greens, green vegetables, ℞ 99
Grimod de la Reynière, writer, p. 4, cf. Mappa
Gruel, p. 210; ℞ 172, 200-1, seq. —— and wine, ℞ 179-80
GRUS, crane; GRUEM, ℞ 212-3; —— EX RAPIS, ℞ 215-6
Gryphius, S., printer, Apiciana No. 6, facsimile of title, p. 263
Guégan, Bertrand, editor, p. 271, seq.
Guinea Hen, ℞ 239, cf. “Turkey Origin,” by the author, Hotel Bulletin and The Nation’s Chefs, for February and March, 1935, Chicago
GULA, gluttony
GUSTUS, taste; also appetizers and relishes and certain entrées of a meal, Hors d’oeuvres. Cf. CENA, ℞ 174-77
Habs, R., writer, p. 18
HAEDUS, HAEDINUS, kid, ℞ 291-3, 355, seq.
—— SYRINGIATUS, ℞ 360;
—— PARTHICUM, ℞ 364; —— TARPEIANUM,
℞ 363; —— LAUREATUM EX LACTE, ℞ 365;
—— LASARATUM, ℞ 496
HALEC, see ALEC
HALIEUS, HALIEUTICUS, pertaining to fish; title of Book X, p. 356
HAND-MILL, operated by Slaves, illustration, p. 60
HAPANTAMYNOS, ℞ 497
Harcum, C. G., writer, see COQUUS
Hard-skinned peaches, to keep, ℞ 28
Hare, B. VIII, ℞ 382, seq. —— imitation, ℞ 384; —— braised, ℞ 382-3; —— different dressings, ℞ 383; —— Stuffed, ℞ 384, 91; —— white sauce for, ℞ 385; —— lights of, ℞ 386-7; —— liver, ℞ 170; —— in its own broth, ℞ 388; —— smoked Passenianus, ℞ 389; —— tidbits, kromeskis, ℞ 390; —— boiled, ℞ 393; —— spiced sauce, ℞ 393; —— sumptuous style, ℞ 394; —— spiced, ℞ 395
Haricot of lamb, ℞ 355
HARPAGO, a meat hook for taking boiled meat out of the pot, with five or more prongs; hence “harpoon.” Cf. FURCA
“Haut-goût” in birds, to overcome it, ℞ 229-30
Headcheese, ℞ 125
Heathcock, ℞ 218, seq.
HELENIUM, plant similar to thyme(?); the herb elecampane or starwort
Heliogabalus, emperor, p. 11
HEMINA, a measure, about half a pint
Henry VIII, of England, edict on kitchens, p. 156
HERBAE RUSTICAE, ℞ 107
Herbs, pot herbs, to keep, ℞ 25
Hildesheim Treasure, found in 1868, a great collection of Roman silverware, now in the Kaiser Friedrich Museum, Berlin, our illustrations show a number of these pieces, p. 43
Hip, dog-briar, ℞ 171
HIRCOSIS AVIBUS, DE, ℞ 229-30
Hirpinus, Fluvius, Roman, ℞ 323, 396, who raised animals for the table
HISPANUM, see Oleum
HOEDUS, see HAEDUS
HOLERA, pot herbs, ℞ 25, 66; also OLERA and HOLISERA, from HOLUS
HOLUS, OLUS, kitchen vegetables, particularly cabbage, ℞ 99
Home-made sweets, ℞ 294
Honey cakes, ℞ 16
Honey Refresher, ℞ 2; —— cake, ℞ 16; —— to renew spoiled, ℞ 17; testing quality of, ℞ 18; —— pap, ℞ 181; see also Chap. XIII, Book VII
Horace, writer, pp. 3, 4, 273, ℞ 455
HORDEUM, barley
Horned fish, ℞ 442
Hors d’oeuvres, ℞ 174; cf. GUSTUS
HORTULANUS, gardener, Hortolanus, pork, ℞ 378
House of the Oven in Pompeii, illustration, p. 2
Humelbergius, Gabriel, editor, ℞ 307; title page of his 1542 edition, p. 265
Hunter style, ℞ 263
HYDROGARATA, foods, sauces prepared with GARUM (which see) and water, ℞ 172
HYDROMELI, rain water and honey boiled down one third
HYPOTRIMA, —IMMA, a liquid dish, soup, sauce, ragout, composed of many spiced things, ℞ 35
HYSITIUM, ISICIUM, a mince, a hash, a sausage, forcemeat, croquette, ℞ 41-56. The term “croquette” used by Gollmer does not fully cover H.; some indeed, resemble modern croquettes and kromeskis very closely. The ancients, having no table forks and only a few knives (which were for the servants’ use in carving) were fond of such preparations as could be partaken of without table ware. The reclining position at table made it almost necessary for them to eat H.; such dishes gave the cooks an opportunity for the display of their skill, inventive ability, their decorative and artistic sense. As “predigested” food, such dishes are decided preferable to the “grosses-pièces,” which besides energetic mastication require skillful manipulation of fork and knife; such exercise was unwelcome on the Roman couches. Modern nations, featuring “grosses-pièces” do this at the expense of high-class cookery. The word, H., is probably a medieval graecification of INSICIUM. Cf. ISICIA
HYSSOPUS, the herb hyssop; H. CRETICUS, marjoram. Also Hysopum creticum, hyssop from the island of Creta, ℞ 29
IECUR, JECUR, liver; ℞ 291-3. IECUSCULUM, small (poultry, etc.) liver
Ihm, Max, writer, p. 19
Ill-smelling fish sauce, ℞ 9; ditto birds, ℞ 229-30
Indian peas, ℞ 187
Ink-fish, ℞ 405
INSICIA, chopped meat, sausage, forcemeat, dressing, stuffing for roasts, ℞ 42; see Hysitia and Isicia; —ARIUS, sausage maker
INTINCTUS, a sauce, seasoning, brine or pickle in which meat, etc., is dipped. See EMBAMMA, ℞ 344
INTUBUS, INTYBUS, —UM, chicory, succory, endive, ℞ 109
INULA HELENIUM, the herb elecampane or starwort
ISICIA, see HYSITIA, ℞ 41-54, 145
—— AMULATA AB AHENO, ℞ 54; —— DE
CAMMARIS, ℞ 43; —— DE CEREBELLIS, ℞
45; —— DE LOLLIGINE, ℞ 42; —— DE SPONDYLIS,
℞ 46; —— DE PULLO, ℞ 50; —— DE
SCILLIS, ℞ 43; —— HYDROGARATA, ℞ 49;
—— PLENA, ℞ 48; —— SIMPLEX, ℞ 52; ——
DE TURSIONE, ℞ 145
Italian Salad, ℞ 123
IUS, JUS, any juice or liquid, or liquor derived
from food, a broth, soup, sauce. IUSCELLUM,
more frequently and affectionately, IUSCULUM,
the diminutive of I.
—— DE SUO SIBI, pan-gravy; such latinity as
this proves the genuineness of the Apicius text,
℞ 153; —— IN DIVERSIS AVIBUS, ℞ 210-228;
—— IN ELIXAM, ℞ 271-7; —— IN VENATIONIBUS,
℞ 349, seq. —— DIABOTANON,
℞ 432; —— IN PISCE ELIXO, ℞ 433-6;
—— ALEXANDRINUM, ℞ 437-9; —— CONGRO,
℞ 440; —— IN CORNUTAM, ℞ 441;
—— IN MULLOS, ℞ 442-3; —— PELAMYDE, ℞
444; —— IN PERCAM, ℞ 446; —— IN
MURENA, ℞ 448, 449-52; —— IN PISCE ELIXO,
℞ 454; —— IN LACERTOS ELIXOS, ℞ 455;
—— PISCE ASSO, ℞ 456; —— THYNNO, ℞
457; —— ELIXO, ℞ 458; —— IN
DENTICE ASSO, ℞ 459-60; —— IN PISCE AURATA, ℞
461-2; —— IN SCORPIONE, ℞ 463; ——
PISCE OENOGARUM, ℞ 464-5; —— ANGUILLAM,
℞ 466-7
Jardinière, ℞ 378
JECINORA, ℞ 291
Jewish Cookery, compared with Apician, ℞ 205
Johannes de Cereto de Tridino, Venetian printer, p. 261
John of Damascus, see Torinus edition of 1541, Basel
Julian Meal Mush, ℞ 178
Keeping meat and fish, ℞ 10-14, seq.
Kettner, writer, p. 38
Kid, p. 314, ℞ 355, seq. —— liver, ℞ 291-93; —— stew, ℞ 355-8; —— roast, ℞ 359-62; —— boned, ℞ 360-1; —— Tarpeius, ℞ 363-4; —— Prize, ℞ 365; —— plain, ℞ 366; —— laser, ℞ 496
Kidney beans, ℞ 207-8
King, Dr. W., writer, quoted: Introduction, pp. 38, 267
Kromeskis, ℞ 44, 47, 60; cf. ISICIA and HYSITIA
Kyrene, Cyrene, City of Northern Africa, see Laser
Labor item in cookery, pp. 18, 24
LAC, milk; —— FISSILE, cottage cheese
LACERTUS, a sea-fish, not identified, ℞ 147, 152, 455-7
LACTARIS, having milk, made of milk; —IUS, dairyman
LACTES, small guts, chitterlings
LACTUA, LACTUCULA, lettuce, ℞ 105, 109-11
[289] LAGANUM, a certain farinaceous dish; small cake made of flour and oil, a pan cake
LAGENA, —ONA, —OENA, —UNA, flask, bottle
Lamb, ℞ 291-3, 355-65, 495-6; preparations same as Kid, which see
Lambecius, Petrus, writer, on “The Porker’s Last Will,” ℞ 376
Lanciani, Rodolfo, writer, pp. 29, 30
Lancilotus, Blasius, co-editor, 1498-1503 editions, pp.
27-30, 41
—see also Tacuinus
—facsimile of opening chapter, 1503, p. 232
Langoust, ℞ 485
LANX, broad platter, dish, charger, ℞ 455
LAPA, LAPATHUM, LAPADON, same as RUMEX, ℞ 26
Larding, ℞ 394
LARIDUM, LARDUM, ℞ 147, 290; cf. SALSUM
LASER, LASERPITIUM, —ICIUM, the juice or distillate of the herb by that name, also known as SILPHIUM, SYLPHIUM, Greek, SYLPHION. Some agree that this is our present asa foetida, while other authorities deny this. Some claim its home is in Persia, while others say the best LASER came from Cyrene (Kyrene), Northern Africa. The center picture of the so-called Arkesilas-Bowl of Vulci at Paris, Cab. d. Méd. 189, represents a picture as seen by the artist in Kyrene how King Arkesilas (VI. saec.) watches the weighing and the stowing away in the hold of a sailing vessel of a costly cargo of sylphium. It was an expensive and very much esteemed flavoring agent, and, for that reason, the plant which grew only in the wild state, was probably exterminated
There is much speculation, but its true nature will not be revealed without additional information
Method of flavoring with laser-impregnated nuts, ℞ 15
LASERATUS, LASARATUS, prepared or seasoned with LASER, or SILPHIUM
Latin title of Vehling translation, opposite title page
LAUREATUM, prepared with LAURUS; also in the sense of excellence in quality, ℞ 365, 373
LAURUS CINNAMOMUM, cinnamon; —— NOBILIS, laurel leaf, bay leaf
La Varenne, French cook, p. 16
Leeks, p. 188, ℞ 93-6; —— and beans, ℞ 96
LEGUMEN, leguminous plants; all kinds of pulse-peas, beans lentils, etc., Book V
LENS, LENTICULA, lentils, ℞ 183-4
LEPIDIUM SATIVUM, watercress
LEPOREM MADIDUM, ℞ 382, seq. —— FARSUM, ℞ 384; —— PASSENIANUM, ℞ 389; —— ISICIATUM, ℞ 390; —— FARSILEM, ℞ 391; —— ELIXIUM, ℞ 392; —— SICCO SPARSUM, ℞ 394; —— LEPORIS CONDITURA, ℞ 393-5
LEPUS, hare; LEPUSCULUM, young hare; LEPORARIUM, a place for keeping hare; LEPORINUM MINUTAL, minced hare, Hasenpfeffer, ℞ 382-395
Lettuce, B. V, ℞ 105, 109-111; —— and endives, ℞ 109; —— purée of, ℞ 130
LEUCANTHEMIS, camomile
LEUCOZOMUS, “creamed,” prepared with milk, ℞ 250
Lex Fannia, ℞ 166
Liaison, lié, ℞ 54; cf. AMYLARE
LIBELLI, little ribs, spare ribs, also loin of pork, ℞ 251
LIBRA, weight, 1 pound (abb. “lb.” still in use); LIBRAE, balances, scales
LIBURNICUM, see oil, oleum
LIGUSTICUM, lovage (from Liguria) also LEVISTICUM; identical with garden lovage, savory, basilica, satury, etc.
LIQUORIBUS, DE, p. 370
LIQUAMEN, any kind of culinary liquid, depending upon the occasion. It may be interpreted as brine, stock, gravy, jus, sauce, drippings, marinade, natural juice; it must be interpreted in the broadest sense, as the particular instance requires. This much disputed term has been illustrated also in page 22. Also see ℞ 9, 42
Liquids, Summary of, p. 370
—— thickening of, by means of flour, eggs, etc.,
called Liaison, cf. AMYLARE
Lister, Dr. Martinus, editor, edition of 1705, title
page, ditto, verso of, ditto of 1709, p. 38; frontispice
—— quoted in many foot notes, ℞ 8, seq.
—— assailing Torinus, p. 13, ℞ 15,
26, 100, 205
—— edition, 1709, facsimile, p. 250
Liver kromeskis, ℞ 44; fig-fed, of pig, ℞ 259-60; —— and lungs, ℞ 291-3; —— hash, ℞ 293; —— of fish, see GARUM and Pollio
Lobster, ℞ 398, 399, 400, 401, 2; in various ways
LOCUSTA, a langoust, spiny lobster, large lobster without claws; ℞ 397-402, 485; —— ASSAE, ℞ 398; —— ELIXAE, ℞ 399, 401-2
LOLIGO, LOLLIGO, calamary, cuttle-fish, ℞ 42, 405
LOLIUM, LOLA, darnel, rye-grass, ray-grass, meal. The seeds of this grass were milled, the flour or meal believed to possess some narcotic properties, as stated by Ovid and Plautus, but recent researches have cast some doubt upon its reported deleterious qualities. Apicius, ℞ 50, reads LOLAE FLORIS
LONGANO, a blood sausage, ℞ 61. The LONGANONES PORCINOS EX IURE TARENTINO in ℞ 140 is a part of the PATINA EX LACTE; a pork sausage made in Tarent of the straight gut, the rectum. Lister says they are cooked in Tarentinian sauce and are not unlike the sausage [290] called APEXABO and HILLA. These sausages were in vogue before the Italians learned to make them; it was in Epirus, Greece, that they were highly developed. Their importation into Rome caused quite a stir, politically. Lister, ℞ 50, p. 119, describes the sausage and calls the inhabitants of Tarent “most voluptuous, soft and delicate” because Juvenal, Sat. VI, v. 297, takes a shot at Tarent
This part of Italy, and especially Sicily, because in close contact with Greece was for many years much farther advanced in art of cookery than the North
Lucania, district of lower Italy whence came the Lucanian sausage, p. 172, ℞ 61; see also LONGANO
LUCIUS FLUVIALIS, a river fish, perch, or pike, according to some; Platina also calls it LICIUS. Cf. MERULA
Lucretian Dish, ℞ 151
Lucullus, Roman general, proverbial glutton, has a place here because of his importation into Rome of the cherry, which he discovered in Asia Minor. He cannot be expected to be represented in the Apicius book because he died 57 B.C.
LUCUSTA, see LOCUSTA
LUMBUS, loin, (Ger. LUMMEL), ℞ 286; LUMBELLI, ℞ 255
Lung, ℞ 291-2
LUPINUS, lupine
LUPUS, fish, ℞ 158
MACELLARIUS, MACELLINUS, market man, butcher
MACELLUM, market
MACERO, to soak, soften, steep in liquor, macerate; MACERATUM, food thus treated
MACTRA, trough for kneading dough
MAGIRUS, MAGEIROS, cook, see COQUUS
Mallows, ℞ 86
MALUS, fruit tree, apple tree; —— PUNICORUM, pomegranate; —— ASSYRIA, —— CITRUS DECUMANA, one of the larger citrus fruits; —— MEDICA, citron tree; —— CYDONIA, quince tree
MALUM, fruit, an apple, but quinces, pomegranates, peaches, oranges, lemons, and other fruits were likewise designated by this name. ℞ 18, 20. See also CITRUM
It is remarkable that Apicius does not specifically speak of lemons and oranges, fruits that must have grown in Italy at his time, that are so indispensable to modern cookery
MALUM PUNICUM, ℞ 20, 21; —— CYDONIUM, ℞ 21; —— GRANATUM, ℞ 20; —— MEDICUM, ℞ 24; —— ROSEUM, ℞ 178, 171. This name, which according to Schuch simply stands for a rose-colored apple, has led to the belief that the ancients made pies, etc., of roses. Today a certain red-colored apple is known as “Roman Beauty.” We concur in Schuch’s opinion, remembering, however, that the fruit of the rose tree, namely the hip, dog-briar, or eglantine, is made into dainty confections on the Continent today. It is therefore quite possible that MALUM ROSEUM stands for the fruit of the rose
MANDUCO, to chew, to munch, to enjoy food by munching; a glutton
MAPPA, table napkin (Fr. nappe). M. is a Punic word, according to Quintil. 1, 5, 57
Each banquet guest brought with him from his own home such a napkin or cloth which he used during the banquet to wipe his mouth and hands. The ancients, evidently, were conscious of the danger of infection through the common use of napkins and table ware. Sometimes they used their napkins to wrap up part of the meal and to give it to their slaves to carry home in. Horace, Martial, Petronius attest to this fact. The banquet guests also employed their own slaves to wait on them at their Host’s party. This custom and the individual napkin habit have survived until after the French revolution. Grimod de la Reynière, in his Almanach des Gourmands, Paris, 1803, seq., describes how guests furnished their own napkins and servants for their own use at parties to which they were invited
This rather sensible custom relieved the host of much responsibility and greatly assisted him in defraying the expenses of the dinner. On the other hand it reveals the restrictions placed upon any host by the general shortage of table ware, table linen, laundering facilities in the days prior to the mechanical age
Marcellus, a Roman physician, ℞ 29