It all started with the idea of a PCB which could display the time in BCD code and is small enough to wear it on the wrist. Sadly i was not able to find a Housing which could be used for the Clock, so i created one myself in OpenSCAD and 3D-printed it. After a while i got tired to explain the BCD code to everybody, so there is also a Analogish Version available.
The Software for both Versions is unified and just differentiated by the Linker. So there is no change to the Code needed.
After some problems with sweat entering the Housing and destroying the electronics, i tried
several possible solutions (read more in the story).
The alternative try to solve the sweat issue was to remove the buttons completely and replace them
with a G-Force sensor. As sensor the Bosch BMA456 is used, since it features various
interrupt functionalities to wakeup the microcontroller and only draws a few microamps in
standby.
The powerful Sensor also made some other cool features for a wrist watch. There is a Wrist Tilt detection to activate the Watchface once the user rises the arm and takes a look on the watch. Now the watch can also be turned on while only using one hand e.g. while carrying stuff.
Another cool new feature is a stepcounter, so the watch is also a (not completely sweat resistant ;-) ) fitness tracker.
The next evolution step is switching to a new more powerful controller. For this the STM32L432K Controller was chosen. This controller also features a calender in the built in RTC.
The First PCB Version was a desaster. The PCBs arrived very fast, but the QFN Package had the wrong size. ATMEL only produces QFN32 in 7x7mm. Therefore the design of the PCB hat to be changed to the smaller package, but that gave me the Chance to shrink the Design to a smaller form factor. The part which keeps the PCB from getting smaller is the Coin Cell Battery (CR2032). On the PCBs there was the order number printed on the Front side, which would be visble in the final assembly.
The second PCB Version was designed from scratch. But the Front was the side with the Battery, so hopefully the Order Number would not be printed on the visible side of the PCB. This worked out very well for the second Version of the PCBs.
since the PCBs finally arrived. it was possible to assemble all the parts. The first PCB was assembled with some Cables soldered to the Testpins on the Backside of the Board. And the Battery case was also not assembled. Here is a Picture of the uncleaned but already soldered PCB
The PCB2 was assembled and cleaned as a First Prototype with the Housing. Here aretwo Pictures of the PCB one without the LEDs turned on and one with the LEDs turned on. Brightness was set in the Program to 100/255 (see software void showLEDs, constant perc=100)
The third PCB was ordered at aisler.net. It only took around one and a half week to arrive(to Germany). The PCB was not completely milled out. It was in a carrier PCB with rectangular shape, but it was easy to remove. I had to sand the edges a bit, since it was a bit rough on the parts where i removed the connections to the carrier, since i had to sand the PCB anyway to fit in the Housing that was no big problem. The overall Quality of the PCBs is very good, but you can not choose the thicknes or color of the PCB.
The Housing was designed in OpenSCAD. a very helpfull reference for the OpenSCAD syntax was https://en.wikibooks.org/wiki/OpenSCAD_User_Manual/Transformations
The Housing was printed by the TOOM Printing Service as SLS in PLA. Sadly all the surfaces are not really smooth, therefore the Buttons are working very bad. I tried to glue in the glass with superglue, but the glue dried out white, this looks really bad :-(
The next housing should be produced via SLA with transparent Resin, so no glass for Protection is needed, since the resin could be used.
Problems while printing with SLA It turns out, that there is no completely transparent Resin available. All of them get a yellow color sooner or later. So it is not really beautiful as a glass.
A friend told me that most of the time the resin will not reflect light equally in every spot, therefore i decided to order a PCB without glass and do the mounting of the glass with very tight tolerances and a rim on the top edge. this worked out extremely well. Another goal was to make the second Housing slim, because the first one was very bulky. With a bit of optimization is was possible to integrate the bottom plate completely in the housing. The overall thicknes was reduced from about 15mm to 9.4mm with the 1mm PCB or 10mm with the new 1.6mm PCB. For the PCB to tightly fit in either the Housing has to get some aditional holes or at least the Battery clip has to be modified.
The first watch broke down after nearly 1 year. After opening the Housing the Problem was very obvious. Sweat was entering the Housing and corroded the PCB and the mounted parts.
Cleaning the PCB and adding something to absorb the moisture As a solution i tried to clean the PCB with Isopropanol and glued some rice to the PCB to absorb the moisture, that helped only for about a week and the Watch stopped working again. So that is not the best solution, but is is an extraordinary try ;-)
adding isolation Tape between the lid and the housing The second solution was to add Tape, which is originally designed to be used to seal threads, between the housing and the lid. That worked out a little bit better, but the Watch also stopped working after a few weeks.
Analyzing the Watch again After analyzing it again the PCB seemd to be ok. The PCB was only a little damaged from the first sweat attack. The Problem was that the time stopped to run, but another point was that the LEDs wont go off anymore. But it was possible to set the time. So the conclusion is that the clock which is run by the crystal stopped running.
Adding clear Nailpolish to guard the Crystal The next attempted solution was to add clear Nailpolish to the PCB, so the crystal is completely covered. This is an attempt to stop moisture from crawling below the crystal and stopping the clock.
Adding Nailpolish was also not the real solution. The Clock also stopped to work after a few weeks.
commercial products to insulate PCBs The next attempt will be to use a commercial Product to insulate the PCB. For this i will try Plastik 70 Super from Kontakchemie.
The time is displayed in BCD Code. For further reference please see the Picture below:
There are Two Buttons on the Watch:
BL: left Button
BR: right Button
To read the Watch it is necessary to activate the Display via one of the Buttons
The LEDs are read columnwise. So the right two columns are showing the Minutes. If an LED is litone have to add its Value to the Minutes if not then nothing is added. So for the full hour no led in the right two columns will be lit.
In the Example above the following LEDs are lit: M40, M10, M08 and M01. The sum of all the values is the current minute value 40 + 10 + 8 + 1 = 59
The Hours are displayed exactly like the Minutes. For the hours the 24 Hour Format is used. In the Example above the following LEDs are lit: H10, H01, H02. The current Hour Value is also determined by summing everythin up: 10 + 1 + 2 = 13.
So the current Time in the example is 13:59. If it is 0:00 the watch will display 24:00 to make sure 0:00 is not confused with a broken watch.
To set the time first of all the display has to be activated, afterwards both buttons have to be released (to make sure that the setup mode is not accessed accidently). Now both buttons have to be pressed. Now the LED H80 lights up, to signalize that now it is in set hour mode. Now Both buttons can be released again.
To switch to the set minute mode the right button has to be pressed. In set minute mode the right button switches back to the normal mode.
With the right button the value which is set currently can be incremented. The hour will not be incremented wen incrementing the minutes from 59 to 0.
Both setup modes will timeout if no button is pressed for 30 seconds. While the watch is in setup mode the clock will be stopped, after returning to normal mode the seconds will start from 0 so it is easy to set the time precisely.
After the PCBs for the BCD Version were working, i also created an analog Version, so i dont have to explain the Clock everytime ;-)
The Analog Watch features the same Schematics for the basic clock functionality, but the display is done via Charlieplexing the LEDs. There are 4 Clustes with 4 Pins which drive all the 42 LEDs. 12 LEDs on the inner ring are displaying the hours. On the outer ring 30 LEDs display the Minutes. Since it was not possible to fit 60 LEDs on the outer ring, uneven numbers are shown while lighting up the two neighbouring LEDs.
The PCB for the analog Version is designed with the same mechanical Interface as the Binary Version therefore the Housing from the Binary Version can be used.
The first Watch i gave away was one of the analog PCB ones i built for my dads birthday. for this Watch i replaced all the resistors for the LEDs with Zero Ω resistors, so the LEDs got more bright and are clearly readable also in the sunlight.
The PCB is based on the Binary Watch. Even the Buttons would still work if soldered on the board. Additionally to the original Schematics there is a Bosch BMA456 connected to the SPI, which is already on the back of the PCB to enable programming via Pogo Pins. Additionally there is also the Chip select pin used and two interrupt pins to enable the wakeup functionality via the BMA sensor.
The SPI interface was chosen, to keep thepower consumption low, since SPI compared to I2C doesn’t need PullUp Resistors.
The BMA Sensor is mounted on the back of the PCB to keep the symetric watch face.
The concept is to use the BMA Sensor also as interface. To enable the Display and also to set the time. So no buttons will be needed this should also enable a housing without holes to keep sweat from crawling into and solve the corroded PCB problems I had with the first BinaryWatch
For interfacing with the BMA i use my own Bosch_BMA456 with an additional SPI-adapter.
The Software still has the ability to work with Buttons, but since the BMA is working really well there is no point in using th buttons. and risking that sweat will enter the housing.
Adapting the housing was very easy, just remove the holes for the buttons. A little smoothing was done afterwards, because there were some thickened walls around the holes, where the Buttons were mounted.
The time is displayed in BCD Code. For further reference please see the Picture below:
To read the Watch it is necessary to activate the Display this can be either done via double tapping the Housing or raising the arm to take a look on the watch(tilt it by a minimum of 12 degrees with the Watchface facing up and holding it steady for about one second)
The LEDs are read columnwise. So the right two columns are showing the Minutes. If an LED is litone have to add its Value to the Minutes if not then nothing is added. So for the full hour no led in the right two columns will be lit.
In the Example above the following LEDs are lit: M40, M10, M08 and M01. The sum of all the values is the current minute value 40 + 10 + 8 + 1 = 59
The Hours are displayed exactly like the Minutes. For the hours the 24 Hour Format is used. In the Example above the following LEDs are lit: H10, H01, H02. The current Hour Value is also determined by summing everythin up: 10 + 1 + 2 = 13.
So the current Time in the example is 13:59. If it is 0:00 the watch will display 24:00 to make sure 0:00 is not confused with a broken watch.
To switch between time display and stepcounter display one needs to double tap the watch. In the stepcounter mode the value is displayed differently. the first column from the left is used to signalize that the stepcounter is shown, it will always display 3(H20 & H10) in this mode, because this would be an unplausible time. the two middle columns are used to display the two most significant numbers of the stepcounter. The most right column is used to display a exponent on the base of 10.
| 0 | 0 | 0 | 0 |
| 0 | 1 | 1 | 0 |
| 1 | 0 | 0 | 1 |
| 1 | 1 | 0 | 0 |
H10, H20 ⇒ 3 signalizes stepcounter mode
H01, H04 ⇒ 5
M40 ⇒ 4
M02 ⇒ 2
54 ⋅ 102 = 5400
To set the time first of all the display has to be activated, afterwards the watchface needs to be turned down and double tapping the Housing. If the First step was succesful the two LEDs H80 and M80 will light up together. To enter the set hour mode the watchface needs to be turned up again and the watch needs to be double tapped again.

To change the Value the watch needs to be tilted up to increase the value or tilted down to decrease the value, to switch to set minute mode the watch needs to be double tapped again. Changing the minutes works exactly like changing hours. To finish the setup process double tap the cloak again. Now the second counter will also start with zero, so it is possible to set the time precisely.
The obvious next evolution step would be to include the BMA Sensor into the analog Version. But since the ATMega328P has a lot of reserved pins there are not enough usable pins to supply the BMA and the 42 LEDs (only one Pin was missing). So there were a few possible solutions
Regarding the Software this would be the easiest Varaint to go with. But there are a few disadvantages of the AVR Controller.
a larger Package requires more PCB Space
it requires 6 Pins for ISP programming
it has a bigger power consumption than modern Controllers
modern Controllers are faster
it is an old Controller ;-)
there is no technical challenge
So this was not the final solution.
I started with the Atmel SAM Controller, because I liked the experience with Atmel Controllers so far. For a comparison of Microcontrollers there is a great article from Jay Carlson https://jaycarlson.net/microcontrollers/. The advantage of the Atmel SAM Controllers are there are a lot of open source Tools which could also be used out of a makefile, so the projectsrtucture is very easy to create. All the Configuration and the Bootupsequence is generated by the Atmel Start utility. https://start.atmel.com/. The feature i liked the most is the SERCOM Interface.A SERCOM interface could be used for various serial Interfaces (UART, I2C, SPI...), the biggest advantage is that all thepins could be multiplexed with each other.
Therefore i created a Evaluationboard i could start playing around with: https://github.com/sulkith/devboards/tree/master/ATSAML22G18A_LowPowerArm
Once the Board arived i encountered the first problem. The files generated by the Atmel Start utility are licensed under the ASF license. And since i’m no lawyer, i couldn’t really decide if it is safe to use these files in an open-source project like this one. So i decided to build a wrapper, which would unpack the Package generated by the Atmel Start utility and include the files in my project Structure ( https://github.com/sulkith/devboards/blob/master/ATSAML22G18A_LowPowerArm/Software/AtmelStart/AtmelStartIntegrate/importAtzip.sh). But as soon as you need to change some code in the Startup or in the drivers the whole process is not working anymore.
But since in the early stages one has to change a lot of settings in the configurator and include it back in my code. So the whole Workflow is some kind of clumpsy. And i got a bit sick of changing a Setting and taking one or two minutes to change a single option. So i was looking for a solution where the whole process is smoother.
So a few colleques suggested to go for a STM32 Controller because the STMCubeIDE is very smooth and all configurations are done inside the IDE.Afterwards the Code is directly generated. A big plus point was that in the copiright notice it is explicitely stated, that you are allowed to redistribute the software if you mention the original source(this is automatically done in the header of every file). So using it for an open source project doesn’t seem to be a problem.
To start with the ecosystem i went for a Nucleo-L053R8 development board with a lowpower Cortex M0+. It took me about half an hour to get the I2C running. So the IDE is great and easy to use. The Controller used on the Board is featuring a on-chip RTC which is also running in all Low-Power modes including Standby mode. So all the Timekeeping wor the wrist watch could be done completely by the chip. There is also a RTC-Clibration feature, which could be used to syncronize the deviation of the Crystal with a high precision frequency source. Sadly the STM32L053R8 Controller is not available in a QFN32 Package.
While searching for a replacement for the STM32L053R8 i came across the STM32L432K Controller, with a Cortex M4 Core, which is also featuring a Shutdown mode with only about 400 nA with the RTC running. So the Watch will consume very low power. A Wakeup is also possible by the Wakeup pin, which could be connected to the BMA Controller to wake up the Controller on wrist tilt or double-tap. There are enough pins for using the Wakeup Pin, SPI, SWD-Debugging and supplying all 42 LED for the analog version. So from the Hardware point of view everything is fine.
Binary PCB Sinc the ST QFN Package looks like a big black box i also placed the BMA456 sensor, which also looks like a black box right next to it for a more PCB like look.
The Boot Pin When the first PCBs arrived it was very easy to get them working, but when the Debugger was not connected sometimes the controller wasn’t booting correctly and was displaying strage things on the LED. When connecting to the controller without a reset one could identify the courrent all stack. And the address was in the section of the ST Bootloader. So the obvious suspect was the Boot Pin, the pin was floating in the initial PCB design and this is a bad Idea. In the first Prototype this was fixed by connecting it directly to the neighbouring ground pin. For the next version there will be a resistor pulling it to ground.
Since the Watch was working now it was time to get the crystal calibration working. But since the controller only has a 32 Pin Package the Calibration Pin is not available in the footprint.
Calibration A Workaround for the missing calibration feature was to use the Timer in frequency counter mode with the LSE clock(External Crystal) connected to the Clock pin. So the Input timervalue will be saved on each Signal edge, after two edges the difference could be calculated. For an input Frequency of 1Hz the difference has to be exactly 32768. To increase the accuracy was the presacaler was set to the maximum value of 8. So the value has to be exactly 8*32768. To further increase the accuracy the whole process will be repeated 20 Times and then the average deviation will be calculated. From this deviation the correction value per 1 ppm could be calculated. But after the calibration procedure the Watch was still not very acurate.
Load Capacitance While searching for the source of the Clock Deviattion i came across the Application Note 2867 https://www.st.com/resource/en/application_note/cd00221665-oscillator-design-guide-for-stm8af-al-s-stm32-mcus-and-mpus-stmicroelectronics.pdf Which describes the Design guidelines for oscillators used in combination with STM32 controllers. The crystal used in the Clock is the Abracon ABS05W-32.768 kHz-D. The AN2867 recommends 4pF Load Capacitors for this setup. Till now i used 10pF Capacitors, this could als explain the heavy correction which was needed for the AtMega328P.
So i did a few single measurements to measure the difference of the Changes done. The measurements were done with the same Controller on the same PCB, once with a Battery Supply (2.8V) and once with Power Supply from the Nucleo Board (3,3V), The second change was the Change of the Capacitors from 10pF to 3,9pF (i couldn’t get exactly 4pF on the 0603 Package). The Results could be found in the Table below.
| Supply Voltage [V] | Load Capacitance [pF] | Frequency [Hz] | Deviation [ppm] |
| 2,8 | 10 | 32549 | -209 |
| 3,9 | 32850 | 92 | |
| 3,3 | 10 | 32548 | -210 |
| 3,9 | 32857 | 99 | |
So we can conclude that a larger Capacitance slows the oscillator down. The correction needed for the clock was now smaller, but the deviation was still there.
CubeIDE Initialization After another few tests i found out there is a relation between Wakeups and the Deviation of the Clock. So the original Proble was every time the Controller is initialized the code generated by the CubeIDE will initialize the whole Clock System. To initialize the driver strength of the LSE Clock the clock has to be stopped, and syncronized again. This Process will delay the RTC Time by about 0,5 seconds.
Therefore i needed to adapt the initialization for the Controller. The function, which was causing the Problems is the SystemClock_Config(), if there is a LSE configured it would be initialized. So the obvoius solution would be to disable the LSE. But if the LSE is disabled the RTC would need a Clock, so the RTC was also disabled. The big Problem is if the RTC is disabled in the configuration the HAL Driver would not be included in the project. So i copied the initialization Function from the code generated without the RTC and renamed it to SystemClock_Config_without_LSE() in the Project configuration i disabled the function call to the original SystemClock_Config() and called the SystemClock_Config_without_LSE() in the usermain instead. Also the RTC initialization had to be rewritten to only initialize the RTC if the LSE is not running. For this task the Function STM32L4_HAL::HAL_driverInit() was introduced. This Function checks if a RTC clock source is set. The clock source is set in the RCC_BDCR register, which resides in the backupdomain of the STM and therefore is not cleared by a reset. So the initialization will be only done once when the Battery is inserted.
Analog PCB Since the STM32L432K has more usable pins than the Atmega328P it was also possible to route a PCB with the BMA Sensor and the Analog Watchface. The space for the Analog Watchface was already very tight without the BMA Sensor. With the Sensor it got extremely tight, so i had to turn the Controller by 45 Degrees. Sadly I was not able to comply with all the Designrules for the BMA Sensor. Now i have a via under the BMA, i think this is very bad for series production, but for me it is working.
Software for the Analog Version I wanted to keep the changes on the Software as simple as possible and don’t want to maintain two folders with common files between both variants. I created a combined software, which selects the correct DisplayManager depending on the watch variant saved in the flash, right next to the calibration values for the RTC. So i have only one Software, which fits the analog and the binary version of the watch, but i need to specify, via a define in the calibration software, if it is a analog or a binary watch. For further development i also added some defines in the software, which can disable a specific watch variant. This can be used either to save flash memory or to reduce the possible software bugs in the software.
To read the Watch it is necessary to activate the Display this can be either done via double tapping the Housing or raising the arm to take a look on the watch(tilt it by a minimum of 12 degrees with the Watchface facing up and holding it steady for about one second)
Analog The analog Version an be read equally to a normal Watch. In the inner Ring the Hours from 1 to 12 are displayed. In the outer Ring the minutes are displayed from 0 to 59, since there are only 30 LEDs in the outer ring for uneven minutes the nearest two LEDs are lit up. For example for 3:15 the LEDs signalling 14 and 16 are lit up.
Binary in the Binary Version the LEDs are read columnwise as BCD code starting with 1 at the bottom. So the right two columns are showing the Minutes. If an LED is litone have to add its Value to the Minutes if not then nothing is added. So for the full hour no led in the right two columns will be lit. In the example above in the first column no LED is lit. In the second column the LED for 1 and 2 are lit. In the third column the LED for 1 is lit and in the last column the LED for 1 and 4 are lit. So it is 3:15.
To enter the Time setting mode you have to turn the Watch in show time mode upside down, Watchface facing the ground an double Tap it. The Watch enters debouncing mode. In debouncing mode the Hours 80 and Minutes 80 are blinking for the binary version for the Analog Version Hours 12 and 6 are blinking. (Blinking leds are displayed brighter in the graphic.
While in debouncing mode turn the watch around again (Watchface facing up) and double Tap it again to enter Set Hour mode.
In the set hour mode the hour can be increased by leaning the Watch away from you and decreased by leaning the watch towards you. In the Analog Version the LED signalling 10 Minutes is blinking, when the current hour setting is PM. Once the hour is set correctly double Tap the Watch again to enter Set Minute Mode.
The Set hour mode works exactly like to set hour mode. Increasing and decreasing is done via leaning the Watch fowrward an backward. Once finished a double Tap sets the Seconds to 0 and starts the Watch again.
To enter the Date display mode tilt the Watch in Time Mode to the Front(Facing away from you) at least 10 degrees and double Tap it.
Analog On the analog Version The Minutes 40 and 50 are lit up to signal Date Display. On the Hours Ring the Month is displayed as Hour and the Day is Displayed as Minutes.
Binary
On the binary Version the first column is showing 3 to signal Date Display. In the second and
third column the Day is displayed as BCD Code and the Month is displayed in binary code(it does
not stop on 9)
A double Tap with the watch facing up switches back to show time mode.
To enter the Date setting mode you have to turn the Watch in show date mode upside down, Watchface facing the ground an double Tap it. The Watch enters debouncing mode. In debouncing mode the Hours 8 and Minutes 80 are blinking for the binary version for the Analog Version Minutes 40 and 50 are blinking. (Blinking leds are displayed brighter in the graphic.
While in debouncing mode turn the watch around again (Watchface facing up) and double Tap it again to enter set day mode.
Setting the Day works exactly like setting the hour. Increasing and decreasing is done via leaning the Watch fowrward an backward. Once finished a double Tap switches to set month mode.
Setting the Month works exactly like setting the hour. Increasing and decreasing is done via leaning the Watch fowrward an backward. Once finished a double Tap switches to set year mode.
The year is only used for the leap year calculation and can be only set between 0 and 99.
Analog In the Analog Version the Set year mode is signalized by blinking both minute LEDs 30 and 50. The Year tens are shown in the inner ring with one LED per Counter and the ones are shown in the outer ring with one LED per counter. In this example XX21.
Binary
Setting Year mode is displayed by showing 3 in the first column and blinking all LEDs in the
second column. The year is displayed in columns 3 and 4. In this example XX21.
Setting the Month works exactly like setting the hour. Increasing and decreasing is done via leaning
the Watch fowrward an backward. Once finished a double Tap sets the Seconds to 0 and starts the
Watch again.
To enter Step display mode tilt the Watch in Time Mode to the Back(Facing you) at least 10 degrees and double Tap it.
Analog On the Analog Watch the hour LED 11 is lit up with the overflow counter (from 0(12 o’clock) to 3. The overflow counter counts the number of whole rounds on the Stepcounter. An overflow occurs on 15000. The current Stepcounter without overflow is displayed in the outer Ring. Each LED signalizes 500 Steps. The value is rounded to 500. In the Example the overflow counter shows 2 and the counter itself shows 6. 2 * 15000 + 6 * 500 = 33000
Binary
On the binary Watch the Step Counter is signalized by the forst column showing 7. Column 2 to 4
shows the steps in 100 counts rounded to 100 counts. So 32768 in the exmample will be shown as
(7)328
A double Tap with the watch facing up switches back to show time mode.
To enter the steps history mode you have to turn the Watch in show steps mode upside down, Watchface facing the ground an double Tap it.
The history counter can be increased and decreased by leaning the watch back and forth.
Analog The steps history mode looks like the Show steps mode, but there is an additional LEDas Hitory Counter lit up. The History counter starts at Hour 4 and increases depending on how far ago the Date is. In the Example Hour 5 is shown, so the history is from 2 days ago. The steps are show as in the Show Steps mode, so there were 7500 Steps done two days ago.
Binary
The steps hitory mode is signalized by the H80 LED. The LEDs below show how long ago the
Steps were counted, the counter starts yesterday with 0. so the example shows the Data from 2 Days
ago. The steps are displayed as in the show steps mode. so the example shows 7500 Steps 2 days
ago.
to leave this mode double tap changes to the show Battery Voltage.
To enter the steps history mode you have to double tap the Watch in show steps history mode.
Analog The show battery voltage is signalized by the Hour 11 and 12 lighting up together. The voltage is shown on the minutes ring, scaled from 3.5V to 1,5V, so each quarter is 0,5V. The Watch in the example is showing 2,95V.
Binary
The show battery voltage is signalized by the Hour 40 LED. Column 2 to 4 are showing the
Battery voltage in 10mV granularity. So the Example shows 2950mV = 2, 95V
A double Tap with the watch facing up switches back to show steps mode.
The battery of the STM Watch version will last for about 6 months, so every 5 months i have to open the housing, change the battery and close the housing again. Also from an enviromental point of view it is not good to waste a battery every 6 months. So there has to be a solution to make the watch rechargable.
The easiest variant to make the watch rechargable would be to directly use a rechargable battery wiht the same PCB. This would require no changes on the PCB level, but the rechargable batteries have a smaller capacitance than the not rechargable lithium batteries which are used till now. So from the environmental point of view this is even worse, since the housing will wear out and i have to change the housing also very frequently. With this solution it also won’t be possible to make the housing 100% waterproof(glue it shut).
Another possible solution would be to insert some contacts in the housing to be able to contact the battery from the outside. This would either require a battery management controller inside of the watch or in a charging bay. Since the charging bay for the watch would be also a special construction i would have gone for the charging bay with the integrated battery managment. This would also make the battery directly connected tothe outside of the watch possibly draining the battery when the watch is wet or sweaty. For this problem a possible solution would be to add a reed contact to one of the pins of the battery. to experiment a bit with these variant i created a devboard ( see Schematics/devboards/LiPo_Circuit). This devboard is using a LTC4054ES5-4.2 as a battery controller. With the devboard i was able to run the watch for about 2 months without recharging. If i don’t have to open the watch to recharge the battery this is sufficient.
With a very small solar cell it would also be possible to power the watch and maybe even charge the battery. If the solar cell is not powerfull enough to charge the watch in the daily usage it would also be possible to build a special charging box which charges the watch by shining light directly on the solar cell. The problem with this solution was the needed space on the watchface. The goal of the watch is to keep it as small as possible so it is easy to use and smaller than a normal smart watch.
This is a very comfortable solution for the user, but the most complex solution to implement in the watch itself. Also this solution would make it possible to fill the complete housing with epoxy, so it is 100% waterproof. Although this solution is the most complex solution, it is also the most elegant one so it is also the one which gets implemented.
The battery has to be protected aganist overcurrent so it won’t start burning suddenly. Luckily most batteries you can buy on ebay or other sources already have an integrated overcurrent protection.
Lithium batteries will wear out when they are discharged below certain levels, so this has to be avoided. Some Batteries already have an integrated undervoltage protection, but most batterymanagent ICs also include a undervoltage protection.
a typical Lithium Polymer battery has a undervoltage protection at 2V and a charging Voltage of 4.2V , so either all parts have to be tolerant to 2V to 4.2V or we need to use some kind of Voltage regulator or DCDC Converter. For the STM32 tis is fine, but the BMA456 is only specified from 1.6V to 4.0V , so we cannot use the whole range from the lithium polymer battery. For this reason in included the TPS62203DBV which is a step-down converter to 3.3V , this will also decrease the needed current from the battery when the voltage is higher than needed.
Wireless charging can either be implemented via a selfmade schematic or via an IC. While researching i came across the LTC4124 Controller from Amalog devices: https://www.analog.com/en/products/ltc4124.html. This IC features an wireless power receiver and an integrated batterymanagement, so it will be the only needed chip for the wireless charging part of the schematic. Sadly the LTC4124 IC is a very small QFN package and only has the pad underneath as ground, so it has to be soldered very good. The testboard can be found under Schematics/devboards/LiPo_Wireless.
receiving part This testboar features a receiving part using the LTC4124. To get it running the LTC4124 needs to receive power wirelessly to connect the battery to the output pin. So you won’t have any luck with the receiver until you get the sender running. A LED is showing when the receiver is charging, this can be used as a finst indcator that something is working. But beware the open dain pin of for the charging LED is only drawing 300țA so make sure to use a low current LED, otherwise you will be fooled by the LED not working. Trust me this will drive you nuts...
sending part The schematic for the sending part was straight from the datasheet of the LTC4124 nevertheless i was not able to get it working, the power dropped once the MOSFET turned on after adding an additional resistor in line with the induction coil and a big capacitor paralell to the power supply the voltage stayed stable, but it was not supplying enough energy to charge the battery. Anyhow it was enough energy to swith on the output pin of the LTC4124. This was the first sign of life for the whole board. However i was not able to improve the sending part any further...
alternative Sender - QI charging pad The next option was to use a already available charging pad to send enough energy to charge the battery. I tried this with a QI charging pad, but sadly the QI charging standard includes a handshake which will prevent the sender to send energy when there is no receiver present. The charging was working if the coil of the sender was placed between the QI charging pad and a QI charging phone. Sadly the chargin was not possible when the coil was placed on the phone, or the phone was more than 10mm away from the charging pad. So it was not possible to charge the assembled watch with this method.
alternative Sender - Evaluation board The next solution i tried was to order an evaluation board for the LTC4124 and just use the sender which comes with the evaluation board. This worked like a charm.
TODO


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Contributions to Chart.js are welcome and encouraged, but please have a look through the guidelines in this document before raising an issue, or writing code for the project.
The issue tracker is the preferred channel for reporting bugs, requesting new features and submitting pull requests.
Please do not use issues for support requests. For help using the annotation plugin, please take a look at the GitHub Discussions page.
Well structured, detailed bug reports are hugely valuable for the project.
Guidlines for reporting bugs:
Please provide any additional details associated with the bug, if it’s browser or screen density specific, or only happens with a certain configuration or data.
Run npm ci
to install all the libraries, then run npm run dev
to build and run tests as you make changes.
Clear, concise pull requests are excellent at continuing the project’s community driven growth. But please review these guidelines and the guidelines below before starting work on the project.
Guidelines:
/src
/test
.md
file in /docs
By contributing your code, you agree to license your contribution under the MIT license.


Setup
Development Environment
Required Software
- A text editor
- A computer with macOS, Windows or Linux
- Python 3
- Node.js (v6.11.0+) w/ NPM
- SQLite 3
Required Services
- Slack with bot API key
- MailGun API key
Running Development Server
First, copy settings.template.js
to settings.js
and add your API keys. DO NOT CHANGE settings.template.js
. More info about settings.js
can be found here.
Then copy messages.template.db
to messages.db
.
Run npm install
and node index.js
.
You are good to go. Default app location is http://localhost:3000/
.
Compiling Client
There is a script called compile.py
in client
folder. Simply run python3 compile.py
in the folder to compile.
Compiled code are stored in client/compiled
folder.
Production Environment
Server
First, copy settings.template.js
to settings.js
and add your API keys. More info about settings.js
can be found here.
Then copy messages.template.db
to messages.db
.
Run npm install
and node index.js
.
You are good to go. Default app location is http://localhost:3000/
.
Client
Simply paste the following code into your webpage. More about client configuration can be found here.
<script type="text/javascript">
lightningChatApiBase = "<your api access point>"
lightningChatInterfaceResources = {
htmlPath:"<path to ui.html>",
welcomeMessage: "Welcome to AMACSS at UTSC, how can we help?",
emailMessage: "What is you email address? if you are away, you will recieve an email notification when we reply."
}
lightningChatInitialQuiz = []
</script>
<script src="<path to lc.min.js>"></script>


An absolute link leading to example.com
A relative link leading to subfoldersubfolder
A root-based link leading to a parallel page otherpage.html.


PM Narendra Modi Graces Yeh Rishta Kya Kehlata Hai Actress Mohena Singh-Suyesh's Wedding Reception
by Nagarathna AMohena Singh, who became popular with her role Kriti in Star Plus' longest-running show Yeh Rishta Kya Kehlata Hai, tied the knot with Suyesh Rawat on October 14, 2019 in Haridwar. Suyesh hails from a political background, and hence, a few politicians graced the wedding along with Baba Ramdev, Kailash Kher, Urvashi Rautela and a couple of Mohena's friends. Almost a month after their wedding, Suyesh threw a grand wedding reception in Delhi yesterday (November 28). The actress was on top of the world as Prime Minister Narendra Modi graced the reception.
PM Narendra Modi At Mohena-Suyesh's Wedding Reception
Mohena shared a picture and wrote, "Truly blessed by the gracious presence of our honourable and admired Prime Minister Shri Narendra Modi Ji at our Reception. And a huge big thank you for this Uber Cool Selfie! Koti Koti Pranaam." - (sic)
The Couple Greet PM Narendra Modi!
In one of the videos doing the rounds on social media, Mohena, Suyesh and PM Narendra Modi, along with the couple's family members were seen on the stage, striking a pose for the shutterbugs.
Selfie Time!
Mohena and Suyesh greeted the PM and clicked a selfie (groupfie) with him. Narendra Modi was seen congratulating the couple. The PM donned a white kurta-pyjama and teamed it up with his signature Modi jacket.
Mohena & Suyesh Wedding Reception
At the wedding reception, Mohena Singh looked resplendent in a baby-pink embroidered anarkali suit and heavy jewellery while her husband Suyesh donned a white pathani suit with a colourful turban.
#SuMo
The princess of Rewa, and Suyesh were all smiles as they greeted their friends and family. The actress had shared a few pictures of her wedding on her social media. Sharing this beautiful picture, the actress captioned it, "It's been a month !And it's been magical.... @suyeshrawat." - (sic)
(Images Source: Instagram)
Also Read: Mohena Singh Looks Breathtaking In A Red Poshak: Pictures From The ROYAL Wedding


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The
Upload As
feature lets you upload a single file or a single directory (and its
contents) as a different name. To do this, follow the steps given
below:
FTP -> Upload As...
from
the menu bar
Upload As...
from the context
menu
Ctrl + F9
(Command + F9
on
Mac OS X) key on your key board
Upload
As
will be displayed.
Upload 'xxx' As
In this field, specify a new name for the selected file or directory.
Upload
Click on this button to transfer the file or directory.
Cancel
Clicking on this button closes the Upload As dialog.
Help
Clicking on this button, displays this help topic.
While the transfer is in progress, you can see the status of the transfer in the status bar.


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The tag algorithm lets people mint — create — identifiers that no one else using the same algorithm could ever mint. It is simple enough to do in your head, and the resulting identifiers can be easy to read, write, and remember. The identifiers conform to the URI (URL) Syntax.
2005-10-26: The 'tag' URI scheme has been published as RFC 4151.
To do:
In early 2001, similar schemes were proposed independently by (Sandro Hawke, The TANN URI Scheme) and Tim Kindberg (list email and this draft). We then collaborated to develop the current scheme, with feedback from various sources.
Here is a short and incomplete history of drafts prior to RFC publication.
I (Sandro) have a dog named Taiko, which is a fairly obscure name, but I can't be sure he's the only dog on the planet with that name. I want to be able to talk about him using just his name (without reference to myself, the town I live in, etc) and I want to be sure people will not accidentally think I'm talking about some other dog also named Taiko. So I'm going to give him a tag URI.
Step 1. Identify myself. I have two choices: I can use one of my e-mail addresses<EMAIL_ADDRESS><EMAIL_ADDRESS><EMAIL_ADDRESS>or I can use a domain name assigned to me (such as hawke.org). I could also use a shared domain name (w3.org) if I had explicit permission from the domain holder.
Step 2. Pick a date. It's possible that in 100 years my great grandson Sandro Hawke IV will be using<EMAIL_ADDRESS>for e-mail. He may even have a dog named Taiko, and I still want my tag to name my Taiko, not his. So I pick some date during which the address<EMAIL_ADDRESS>was definitely mine. I'll pick yesterday, Tuesday, June 5, 2001.
Step 3. Encode the date as characters, using ISO 8601: "2001-06-05". If I had picked the first day of a month, back in step 2, I would not include the day. If I had picked the first day of a year, I would not include the month or day.
Step 4. Pick a unique name for the object. But it has to be unique only for the already-chosen identity and date. "Taiko" seems like a fine choice here. I don't want to use a name like "1", because then I'm much more likely to get confused and accidentally call my other dog "1". I also want to avoid accidentally reusing a name, but by always using the previous day's date I essentially eliminate that risk: I only need to remember names for the rest of the day.
Step 5. Combine them like this: tag:sandro@hawke.org,2001-06-05:Taiko.
Tags are used to identify blog items in the Atom personal publishing standard, as in this example.
Tags are also used in YAML to identify type information.
Please let Tim Kindberg know of other uses.
That's undefined in the tag specification; you'd need to look at the particular protocol in which they are used. Tags constitute only a scheme for minting identifiers: there is no authoritative resolution mechanism.
Indeed, Sandro might instead have named his dog http://hawke.org/2001/06/05/Taiko.
There are different points of view about this. The main argument against tags is "Why invent a new URI scheme when an old one — http — could be used?" Some arguments in favour are:
This specification only tells people how to mint unique identifiers. Policies concerning the use of these identifiers should be set for each situation or protocol in which they are used.
We considered other identifiers assignable on a quantum of a day, such as telephone numbers and IP numbers. But it seemed better to keep things simple.
There are two schools of thought about XML namespace names: (1) the name serves purely to distinguish otherwise-identical XML element names, and (2) the names leads to documentation, schema, and other information about the elements. For people firmly in the first camp, tags make good namespace names; for everyone else, working http URIs are recommended.
As with XML Namespaces, there are two schools of thought. Do you want the web's default mechanism at your disposal for fetching information about the identified thing? If so, then HTTP URIs are probably better used.
No!
This web site is maintained by Tim Kindberg and Sandro Hawke as a place for authoritative information about the "tag" URI scheme. It is expected to stay small and simple.
Last updated 2008-07-09.


Robotic Arts Intro Fall 2019 (IA277.01)
- Instructor: Lucas Yasunaga Haroldsen<EMAIL_ADDRESS>- Class Site: yasunaga.work/raif19
- syllabus: syllabus.pdf
- Resources: links.html
11/15: [work session & prototyping]
Project
Today is dedicated to getting things moving. Let's get your ideas take shape. You are free to use other shops/studio as long as you check in with me. Today, I will go over:
- on prototyping
- on trouble shooting
- Optional: 3D printing demo
Reminder for the schedule
- 11/22 prototype due
- 12/6 presentation
- 12/13 Documentation due
On Prototyping
Next week we will be reviewing your prototype for your project. I want you to consider a few things towards next week to get most out from the feedback.
- Prototype does not have to look slick! It is a model of your project so we can discuss what is working
- Identify the important part of your project and decide what part you want people to experience
- Prepare questions to ask
- Take a break! We make some mistake often when we are working on the same thing for too long. Fresh eye always helps to see a problem
- Break it down. Make small part of your project work first, then scale it up!
- Iterate your idea
- Try not to get confined by the tech and stay flexible with your experiments!
感情纏身装身具 / ACCESSORIES FOR WEARING EMOTIONS by Hazuki Katagai
Ranjit Bhatnagar - 28 Instruments, 28 Days
Naki nonsense machines by Meiwa Denki
Sumersault (excerpt)from Callum Cooper
Troubleshooting Checklist
When we work with electronics, do not expect everything to work on a first try! There are times that things work on a first try but always expect a problem.
Troubleshooting is an important and an essential skill for working with electronics.
Here are some guidelines for troubleshooting projects. Ask few questions to yourself to start this process.
- Is this problem occurring for the first time?
- What was the last thing you change in your project?
- Are there a part that's working? If so what is working and what is not?
- Based on these questions, what do you think might be happening?
Now, when you get to troubleshooting with details of your project, I want you to pay attention to a couple of things.
- If anything is too hot to touch, smells burned, or if you see smoke, unplug everything and identify where in your project is it coming from. Heat is bad in most cases!
- Test your components from one end or another so you can eliminate working part of circuit as you go
- Take a break! We make some mistake often when we are working on the same thing for too long. Fresh eye always helps to see a problem
- Break it down. Make small part of your project work first, then scale it up!
Above is an example set up for a testing sequence.
We will start at the plug and work our way up to the sensors and outputs.
Use a multimeter to test the circuit! Here is a refresher on how to use a multimeter
1: Wall
- Test if the outlet you are using is working by plugging other electronics in like lamps
- Try another outlet
- If you are using power strips or surge protectors, make sure they are turned on
- Test any extension cords you are using
- Some outlet has "reset" button
2: Power Supply / Battery
- Make sure your power supply is plugged in firmly to wall and arduino
- Check polarity
- Check the label and make sure it is meant to provide in between 6V and 15V if you are plugging into 2.1 mm center positive plug
- Use multimeter to check the output voltage
- Use another power supply
- Make sure battery is not dead
3: USB cord
- It is more common then we expect that bad USB cable causes issues.
- if you are having a trouble uploading to the board even if you have selected right port and the board, check USB cable first.
- Swap out the USB cable to make sure cable is good. If not throw it away!
- USB C to USB adapter can cause issues connecting to your arduino. Try another adapter
4: Computer / Code
- Make sure you have selected right board to upload in arduino software (Tools --> Board)
- Make sure you have selected the port you are connecting (Tools --> Serial Port)
- Try to load simple sketch like Blink.ino sketch from example and see if it uploads
- Restart arduino software
- Restart computer
- Come back to coding troubleshooting after you confirm that arduino is working with simple code
5: Arduino
- Make sure On LED is lighting up. If On LED goes out when you plug something into arduino, that's a bad sign (likely there is wiring issue). Unplug them and see the On LED comes back up.
- Make sure no conductive objects are touching on the bottom of the board
- Press "Reset" button
- Try to load simple sketch like Blink.ino sketch from example and make sure TX and RX LEDs are lighting up during upload
- Double check all connection and there is no short circuit
- make sure there is no heat coming off of any pat of arduino.
- Remove all connection except for USB and try to upload Blink sketch
- Try another arduino
6: Wires to the sensors
- Bad solder can cause connection issues. Make sure your soldering connections are attached well
- Check continuity from one end to soldered connection to the sensor using multimeter
- Discard any wire that fails continuity test
7: Sensors / Components
- Check if it's soldered well
- If you are using Digital input, upload the simplest sketch like Examples > Digital > Button
- If you are using Analog input, upload the simplest sketch like Examples > Analog > AnalogInput
- Use serial monitor and serial plotter
- Swap out for identical sensor
8: wire to the output
- Again, bad solder can cause connection issues. Make sure your soldering connections are attached well
- Check continuity
9: output
- Check if it's wired correctly
- Power it without arduino if you can
- swap it with another one
10: coding
- always start small. When you have multiples input and output, start with one input one outputs
- Make sure you have main structure down --- void setup() void loop()
- make sure there is no duplicate variables
- make multiple sketches in stages of your project
- comment your code!
- Use serial monitor
- Always make sure your physical part of your project (circuits) are connected correctly and working before you tackle coding problem
3D printing and modeling
3D printers
We have three 3D printers in house! I will be doing a demo and going over how to use them. In case you need a refresher in the future, here are some videos of walk through
Monoprice 3D printer configuration file
3D modeling software
- OpenSCAD: Free code based 3D modeling software. Great if you are good at coding
Basic Tutorials - Rhinoceros 3D: Popular paid 3D modeling software that cost ~$200 for students. Installed on computers on the 4th floor computer LAB.
Tutorials at Lynda.com through your MICA portal - TINKERCAD :Free basic online 3D modeling software
- BlocksCAD :Free online block based 3D modeling
- SculptGL :Free online sculpting 3D modeling
- Netfabb: Free software for cleaning your 3D models


Graph Game
Graph Game
Tutorial
Coordinate
Linear Equations
Linear Transformations
Introduction to Quadratics
Standard Quadratics Form
General Quadratic Form
Zeros (Quadratics)
Quadratic Transformations
3 times
6 times
9 times
Timed
Your Browser is not compatible with the Canvas tag. Please use Chrome, Firefox, or IE 9 or above.
(
,
)
Y =
X +
Y =
/
X
+
Y = ( X -
)^2 +
Y =
( X -
)^2 +
Y =
X^2 +
X +
Y = (X -
) (X -
)
Exit
:


Alohomora! Harry Potter and the Cursed Child: behind the scenes - in pictures
The secrets of the spellbinding West End production are unlocked in a new book that contains previously unseen sketches and designs
Pages from director John Tiffany’s Cursed Child notebooks
A hoot … Albus Potter (Sam Clemmett) and Scorpius Malfoy (Anthony Boyle) in the owlery
Photograph: Manuel Harlan
Design for the happiness-guzzling Dementors
Illustration: ©Katrina Lindsay
Rose Granger-Weasley (Cherrelle Skeete) is assigned her house by the sorting hat
Photograph: Manuel Harlan
Costume design for Dolores Umbridge of the Ministry of Magic
Illustration: ©Katrina Lindsay
Sketch of the chalkboard in Snape’s potions class by set designer Christine Jones
Albus and Scorpius make a stink in potions class
Photograph: Matthew Murphy
Hermione Granger costume design by Katrina Lindsay
Illustration: ©Katrina Lindsay
Another look for Hermione Granger
Illustration: ©Katrina Lindsay
A third style for Hermione Granger
Illustration: ©Katrina Lindsay
Harry Potter and the Cursed Child, a play in two parts, had its world premiere in the summer of 2016 at the Palace theatre, London, where it is still running
Photograph: Manuel Harlan
The Guardian’s Michael Billington called it ‘ a thrilling theatrical spectacle’
Photograph: Manuel Harlan
Sketches by scenic supervisor Brett J Banakis
Further designs for the Dementors
Illustration: ©Katrina Lindsay
Harry Potter and the Cursed Child: The Journey: Behind the Scenes of the Award-winning Stage Production is out now from Little, Brown
Photograph: Manuel Harlan


Frequently Asked Questions
What kind of cats do you save? Are their any excluded?
No, we do not discriminate against any kinds of cats. Old, Young, Black, Tabby, we help all kinds of cats across the country.
How much of the donations "actually" go to help the cats?
The foundation's expenses are entirely out of the pockets of volunteers which leaves 100 percent of all donations made to the foundation going to the cats who desperately need it the most.
I've got information on a cat that could use your help, how can I get in touch?
You can get in touch with us by visiting our contact page and using the phone number to call us or sending us an email via the email link<EMAIL_ADDRESS>Alternatively, you can also reach out to one of our various social media accounts!


Lorem Ipsum available, but the majority have suffered alteration in some form, by injected humour, or randomised words which don't look even slightly believable. but the majority have suffered alteration in some form, by injected humour
S M L
The best way is to develop and follow a plan. Start with your goals in mind and then work backwards to develop the plan. What steps are required to get you to the goals? Make the plan as detailed as possible. Try to visualize and then plan for, every possible setback. Commit the plan to paper and then keep it with you at all times. Review it regularly and ensure that every step takes you closer to your Vision and Goals. If the plan doesn’t support the vision then change it!
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| Brand | Brand Name |
| Delivery Condition | Lorem Ipsum |
| Type | Party Wear |
| Style | Modern |
| Product Number | FG1548952 |
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Imogen Corbett is a New Zealand artist and curator based in Brisbane. In 2018 she attended Studio Arts College International in Florence Italy, studying art history and painting, which has greatly influenced her work. She co-curated and exhibited in the exhibition ‘Ex/Studio’ (2019), ‘The Centenarian Portrait Project’ (2019) and co-founded and exhibited in ‘The Brisbane Indie Project’, for emerging artists and musicians (2020). She has exhibited in the New Zealand and Australian painting awards ‘The Adam Portrait Award’ (2018 and 2020), ‘The Midland MRI National Youth Award’ (2017) and ‘The Wallace Secondary School’s Art Award’ (2017) and The Lethbridge Small Scale Art Award (2021).
Imogen Corbett is a Brisbane based oil painter, whose work combines hyper realistic detail with surreal, fantasy compositions. Her subject matter engages with the traditions of portraiture, still life and landscapes, which is then destabilized through surrealism. She uses recurring motifs such as young and older models, skulls, smoke and decaying fruit, as reminders of our mortality. Her objective is to make contemporary vanitas paintings which explore life, death and their often overlooked connection to one another.


--- creation_epoch:<PHONE_NUMBER> lastmod_epoch:<PHONE_NUMBER> categories: Security title: Mitigating attacks against FDE (BitLocker, TrueCrypt, etc) via Firewire, Thunderbolt, or DMA --- Good Microsoft KB on how to prevent Firewire/Thunderbolt/DMA attacks against a live running system with software FDE.
Good for versions of Windows including and after Vista and Server 2008.
Windows 8.1 (not 8.0) actually mitigates the attack out of the box now! See Choose the Right BitLocker Countermeasure on technet.microsoft.com (March 26, 2014).
Microsoft's site isn't the most clear since it tries to apply to many versions of Windows. The instructions actually have text that doesn't 100% match what your version of Windows may have.
Windows 7 Quick Start:


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Digital Branding + Design
You are as precious to me as you were to your own mother and father.
I swore to them that I would protect you, and I haven't. Yes, I used a machine gun. I want to shoot the pigeons... Off my roof.
 When I get back, remind me to tell you about the time I took 100 nuns to Nairobi!
© 2013 // WebDesigner Magazine