20
An ordinary morning with little wind. I got up at
6:30
21
June 1st
and had slept very well all night long. The ship had sailed through the night
22
until morning. At
7:05 the town of
Jaffa came into view. Then half
Page 073
01
Jaffa Jaffa
an hour out boats came out from the shore to the ship to take on some more passengers. Likewise,
02
lighters came to get the cargo and we heard that we would have to stay here all day.
03
The town of
Jaffa lies by the sea and has elegant buildings like the houses of
Beirut
04
but it is an abominable anchorage because the sea here is rough and our boat is flopping about like
05
a fish. We were never able to keep ourselves from throwing up and so too
06
all the passengers. Our heads were all spinning and our stomachs were quite upset.
07
The coast of
Jaffa is well-known around here for its rough seas. Many vendors came from the city
08
with goods such as rings and rosaries and other curios made in
Jerusalem and
Jaffa.
09
We bought some things as mementos. At
10
11:00 they rang the breakfast bell and we went to eat at a private table in the salon.
11
The ship never ceased rocking and we were much troubled. My morale was low and I grew weak.
12
It came to mind how much better it is traveling by land than by sea. The ship
13
is quite large but light and has only a little cargo in it, yet it holds 3600 tons.
14
It is very long and narrow with about 100 cabins that are very nicely appointed.
15
In them are electric lights and bells, also electric, as well as other things.
16
Here I made friends with a man of American citizenship originally from
Beirut
17
but he had emigrated from
Beirut long ago. His name is
George Saba
18
and he lives in
New York. He is a very pleasant man. He was staying
19
with us at the hotel but neither of us dared speak to the other until now.
20
We were quite distressed by the rocking of the ship. Finally at
6:00 it whistled and set off from
Jaffa,
21
this accursed place. However we encountered high winds and the ship rolled
22
even more. At
7:00 the dinner bell rang. I immediately went and ate
23
hastily with an upset stomach and then rushed off to sleep.
Page 074
01
June 2nd
A nice morning with a westerly wind. I got up at
5:00 but I did not
02
sleep all night because I was indisposed on account of the sea. I heard the ship
03
slow down and knew immediately that we were arriving at
Port Sa'id. I put my head
04
out the window and saw the seaport, which came into view a half an hour out. The ships there were as abundant as
05
worms. I hurried to change my clothes and went up on deck. Then the ship entered the harbor. It was
5:20.
06
I saw a number of big ships in a line. Then after the ship stopped moving,
07
we hired a boat, one of the
Cook
Cook: A reference to Thomas Cook and Sons, an international travel company that started as a rail travel company in Britain, it expanded to give tours in Egypt by 1869. By the time Alexander had arrived in Cairo, the company offered worldwide tours and transit options within and beyond the Middle East. In addition to providing rail options and a fleet of luxury steamers within Egypt. The company also offered travel options to many other locations around the world.
boats. We stowed our things and then went ashore
08
to the customs office. Here they searched us in case we had with us the slightest prohibited thing and they found nothing.
09
We had decided that we would visit our friend Monsieur
Joseph Khoury
Joseph Khoury: Formerly engaged to Josephine, the daughter of Alexander Richard Svoboda's older half sister. The two never married because Josephine passed away before the marriage.
who, 10 years ago, was
10
the interpreter for the
French Consul in
Baghdad. He was engaged to
Josephine
Josephine: The daughter of Medula Sayegh Tessy. Medula was Alexander Richard Svoboda's half sister from this mother's (Eliza Marine) first marriage.
, Aunt Medula's daughter, who
11
passed away before her marriage. So we asked about his house and they showed us where it was. We sent up our card fearing that
12
this might be a different
Khoury. They then showed us up and none other than
Joseph's mother herself came.
13
Then he arrived and received us with much joy and kissed us. We were truly amazed at how fate had allowed us to see him after
14
so long. Our idea was that we would go from here directly to
Cairo, that is, on the train that
15
departs at
9:00. But
Monsieur Khoury very much wanted us to stay here for the day so we agreed to this.
16
I left to tour
Port Sa'id and found it a very beautiful and clean town. Its markets and buildings are entirely
17
like
Europe. That is to say, all the buildings are four or five stories high and there is a large building, 9 stories high, made of iron.
18
It is across from the house of
Monsieur Khoury. I can honestly say that the arrangement of
Port Sa'id is better than
19
Beirut although it is small and extremely expensive. A person cannot live there on less than 15 francs
20
a day. All the shops and department stores are in the French style and nearly all the inhabitants of the town dress
21
Port Sa'id Port Sa'id
in the French manner. The Egyptian police patrol every street, dressed very neatly and were on the lookout
22
for anyone who plays rough. My health up until now has been quite disrupted. My head is spinning
23
and I am incapable of doing anything. In the afternoon we had breakfast at
Monsieur Khoury's
Page 075
01
and asked him to show us some of the hotels so we could find a place to spend the night. He took us to
02
a hotel where we rented two rooms. They asked 15 francs of us for dinner and bed. The bicycle is
03
abundant here and there are many, both men and women, who ride it in the streets.
04
After dinner
Monsieur Khoury came to visit us and stayed for about two hours.
05
Today the morning is a little hot with a westerly wind. The weather
06
June 3rd
here is much different than in
Damascus and
Beirut. It is like days in
Baghdad during this month.
07
That is to say, dry and hot. We drank tea at
7:30, got our things together, and went to
08
Monsieur Khoury's house to say goodbye and go to the railway to board the train
09
to
Cairo. So we stayed just until
8:30. Then we bade his mother goodbye
10
and he generously offered to accompany us to the station. We went and got ourselves seats. We saw that this train
11
was much nicer than the one that goes from
Damascus to
Beirut. And by chance we came upon
12
an empty
Wagon for us only and we were very pleased. At
9:00 sharp
13
the whistle blew and the bell rang for the departure. So we exchanged goodbyes with
Monsieur Yousif Khoury
14
and the train left
Port Sa'id taking the shore of the
15
Canal de Suez, always traveling along its banks. At
9:35
16
it halted. It was 14 kilometers from
Port Sa'id to here. At
9:45 a ship in the canal,
17
named
Abdul Qader
Abdul Qader: The name of a ship.
, passed us with pilgrims on board, one that had certainly come from
Basrah
18
going to
the Hajj. At
10:00 the train stopped and started again 3 minutes later.
10:50
al-Qantara Station, we departed at
19
11:00 /
11:45,
al-Ferdan, we departed at
11:47. We arrived in
al-Isma'iliyya
20
Suez Canal, al-Isma'iliyya
at
12:15 and got off the train. We had to wait for the train coming from
21
al-Suez to take us to
Cairo. At
1:10 it arrived and we transferred.
22
We took another
Wagon but not the same kind as the first and older.
23
Isma'iliyya is a small and rebuilt town. At
1:23 we set out
24
returning to
al-Suez so that the train can take the
Cairo track. This one
Page 076
01
was going fast, much swifter than the one we came on, to
al-Isma'iliyah.
02
1:55
, Mahassana, we departed at
1:58 /
2:08,
Qassasin, we departed at
2:10 /
2:25,
Tel al-Kabir,
03
we departed at
2:30 /
2:45,
Abu Hamad, we departed at
2:48 /
3:00,
Abu Ahdhar, we departed at
3:01.
04
Here there is a large and well-designed
cemetery
Cemetary: In Abu Ahdhar, a cemetary commemorating the soldiers who died int he 1882 Battle of Tel el-Kebir in Egypt.
with the graves of English and Egyptian soldiers
05
who were killed in the battle between
England and Egypt
Battle of Tel el-Kebir: An important battle in 1882 between the British military and the Egyptian army led by Ahmed Urabi near Tel el-Kebir, about 110 km northeast of Cairo. The British succeeded in maintaining control of the Suez Canal and other regional interests.
and its allies.
3:10,
Zaqaziq.
06
to Cairo
This town is quite large and resembles
Baghdad in size. Here many passengers came
07
and 7 of them even entered the reserved
Wagon. They were quite lacking in manners
08
and made jokes amongst themselves thinking we were Westerners. The lands here are very fertile and there are many
09
date palms and crops such as barley, wheat, cotton, rice and other things.
10
For the first time since
Baghdad I saw water buffalos in this place. But
11
the entire area from
Port Sa'id to here is very sandy with dust clouds and the train
12
is full of dust. The railway was swift and we traveled quite well.
13
I counted 15 telegraph poles passing in a single minute. We departed from
14
Zaqaziq at
3:25, with a large number of passengers from there.
Zinkaloon,
3:35, we departed at
3:36
15
/
Joudida,
3:48, we departed at
3:50 /
Minat al-Qamh,
3:55 we departed at
4:00 /
Mayt Yazid,
16
4:05, we departed at
4:07. At
4:15 the train stopped and they said we must
17
move to another one because the track here is being leveled and the railway cannot pass directly.
18
So we had to carry our things and race to the second railway, jostled
19
left and right by the passengers. At last we reached the other train but with great difficulty and settled into
20
a compartment that holds 8 persons. We were obliged to wait for the transfer of the cargo from one
21
to the other. Finally at
5:10 the train departed. We arrived in
Shablena at
5:20
22
and departed at
5:28 /
5:45,
Benha, we departed at
6:00. The train was extremely swift,
23
traveling this speedily with us for the first time. It was making a full 21 poles per minute.
24
After a 15 minute run
Cairo came into view. So it reduced its speed and began
Page 077
01
to travel slower.
02
03
04
AT
6:35 WE ARRIVED at the
Cairo station and caught sight of the towering buildings
05
and lovely edifices that eclipse both
Beirut and
Damascus. Here hotel owners gathered
06
about us abundant as worms and we sought out the best one, that is, the
Hotel Metropole.
07
Cairo
We hired a carriage and rode through pleasant
08
markets and beautiful streets that cheer the heart. As we continued on our way people
09
swarmed in the streets and the carriages teemed like fish. The policemen in the streets
10
are as neatly dressed as the English soldiers. We do not have time
11
just now to look at everything. So we came to the hotel entrance and bargained with them to pay one
12
English pound each day for the three of us. We entered and took two rooms. Everything is
13
unbearably expensive. In
Port Sa'id it is much worse. There a porter will not carry anything
14
a distance of only three minutes without one franc and everyone else is the same. At the hotel we met
15
Madame Fara, that is,
Regina, the daughter of
Khowaja Habib Shiha
Khwaja Habib Shiha: The brother of Francis Shiha; he fathered a girl named Regina.
and her son
Victor.
16
She was very pleased to see us when we reached her room. She could not believe that
17
we had really come and was quite astonished to see me. She asked about
Baghdad, about her sister
18
Takohi among other things. We dined at
8:00 and then went up to sleep in our rooms
19
because we were truly devastated by exhaustion and the journey.
20
I got up at
6:30 in the morning. It was hot all night long
21
June 4th
and the windows were open in the room. I slept very well this night
22
because I was so tired. After we drank tea I went with my
23
father to tour the markets. But what markets they are, like palaces!
Page 078
01
All the stores are made bright with gilded signs and glass on the main doors, and
02
with passages like beautifully designed brides. First we went to Messrs.
03
Thos. Cook & Son to purchase tickets from one of them right then to
Brindisi
04
and
Napoli, as well as railway tickets from here to
Alexandria.
05
So we came to the office which looked as if it was a city gate. The architecture was amazing and
06
the building seemed like a castle. We entered and inquired about the tickets. He immediately showed us the plan
07
of the ship that will sail from
Alexandria on the 11th of this month to
Brindisi.
08
It is called
Sutleg. It holds nearly 5000 tons and is an extremely large ship.
09
He issued three second-class tickets for us to
Brindisi for 16 and a quarter English
10
pounds and railway tickets from
Brindisi to
Napoli for about 6 pounds,
11
and also tickets from here to
Alexandria for one and a half pounds for all, that is, all three of us.
12
He said that if we returned in an hour the tickets would be ready. So we left
13
and went to the bank, that is, the
Banque Impl. Ottomane, to collect
14
a total of 60 pounds. This bank is also large with admirable architecture and
15
a fair number of clerks. They handed us the money and we left returning to
Cook's
16
and found all the tickets ready. We took them and went to the
Austrian Consulate
17
to ask if there were any letters from
Baghdad addressed to us. We gave them
18
gave our cards and they looked but found nothing. Then it was necessary for us to return to the hotel because
19
it had turned
11:30. In
Regina's room I ran across Monsieur
20
Auguste Tonietti, whom I had quite forgotten. When he left
Baghdad
21
I was about 9 years old. He did not recognize me either. We were very pleased
22
to find someone who could help us here and so we arranged to meet him
23
in the afternoon, that is, at
4:00, and tour the town together. In the course of conversation
24
he told us that
Effie
Effie: Effie Svoboda was the daughter of Alexander Sandor Svoboda and wife of Ernest Boucherot. Born in Baghdad in 1852, she left the city in 1860, eventually settling in Cairo. She gave birth to many children, including a girl named Evelyn and sons Paul Louis and Alphonse.
, my late Uncle Alexander's daughter is here but is
Page 079
01
out of town and that her husband has an
Optician's shop in the city.
02
I prepared a few letters to
Baghdad and
Basrah after breakfast. Then
Monsieur Auguste came at
4:00 and took us with him to
03
see Monsieur
Boucherot, Effie's husband. He had no news of this
04
whatsoever and when my father surprised him the poor man was so amazed
05
that he cried out in a loud voice and hugged him as if in disbelief
06
Azbeqiyya, Cairo Cairo el Izbakieh
and appeared very happy to see us. He is a pleasant man and he has a store where he sells
07
binoculars, engineering tools, and other things. After a half an hour we left
08
his place. He said that
Effie would return tomorrow and that he would bring her to our hotel.
09
He also invited us to spend the day with him outside the city on Sunday. From there we went into
10
a wooded garden called
al-Azbakiyah
al-Azbeqiyya: To be completed.
in the center of the district.
11
What a pleasant and agreeable garden it is, with every kind of tree in
12
the world purchased for exorbitant sums in order to bring them here. Beneath
13
the trees there are plenty of seats and benches and people are going to and fro.
14
In the middle there is a very large pond, I mean 200 meters long, with geese,
15
but a different kind of goose we had never seen before. It has a long neck and a beak
16
with a black appendage and is quite large. There is a raised circle next to the pool
17
where they play music, pleasant Western songs. In short this place
18
is the best of all the wooded gardens we have seen. In front of this garden,
19
in the passage, there is a large statue of
Ibrahim Pasha riding his horse, made entirely
20
of bronze. We stayed until
7:30 and then returned. The streets
21
swarmed with people, Westerners with their women, as abundant as worms. It was a thousand times more
22
crowded than in the morning because everyone had just now finished work. The streets are lit
23
by electric lights, natural gas, and petrol. Streetcars go to and
24
fro and so too the bicycles. Here for the first time we saw the
Page 080
01
Tramway. It runs on electricity and they call it the
Automobile.
02
This thing is truly astonishing. It moves by itself without being pulled by horses or having
03
fire in it. Returning to the hotel we said goodbye to
Auguste and agreed that
04
tomorrow he would come to us so that we could go and see other places.
05
I got up in the morning and the weather was very hot. The night had been
06
June 5th
very stuffy. After I had washed and changed
Monsieur Auguste
07
arrived and we decided to visit a mosque well known for its architecture. They call it
08
al-Muqattam Mosque. So we set out from the hotel and boarded the
Tramway Electric
09
to journey to the outskirts of the city in order to go up and see this mosque which is built tall
10
and on top of a mountain. We arrived and there were many barhama (acacia) trees in the streets.
11
Then we climbed up little by little and went all around this very large mosque.
12
al-Muqattam Mosque
The building is like the work of a mighty people. From here we see the whole town below us
13
and so too the pyramids become visible to us from here. Afterwards we wanted to enter the
14
mosque, that is to say, the prayer hall, so we were obliged to wear their slippers.
15
We wore them and entered into the prayer hall. We were astonished by its size and by what there was inside
16
of refined marble-work. Its width is 80 steps and its length is many times
17
that. It also has four domes on top, each one higher than the other, and all
18
have encircling balconies.  They can light
20
1000 lamps on this chandelier and its circumference is possibly 10 meters. Then we exited
21
and gave them a few piasters as a tip. We then came to a very deep hole
22
called the
Well of Joseph
The Well of Joseph: According to Burckhardt (1812), the Well of Joseph (Ar. Jubb Yousif) was on the road between Damascus and Akka. Alexander must have visited a second well, known by the same name, a short distance from Cairo.
, that is to say, where
Joseph the Beautiful was thrown into the
23
well. Here too we gave them a few piasters and they opened the door for us. We went down into it
Page 081
01
because it is in the depths of the middle of this mountain. It is dark
02
so they brought us candles. I went down half-way with
Auguste and we saw
03
a tomb in the wall and something like wheels for drawing water. We were at a depth of 200 meters and it was but
04
another 100 meters to the water. But we came back up because we were dying from exhaustion
05
Cairo
and the heat that had killed us all day long. The sun was blazing hot like the days of the summer
06
in
Baghdad. So we left this place quite amazed by its workmanship
07
and went back on the tramway to the hotel. It was
12:00 and we were
08
expecting
Effie, daughter of the late
Uncle Alexander, because her husband had told us that she
09
would come to our place at noon. Just when we sat down at the table for breakfast they told us that
10
guests had arrived to see us and we knew that it was
Effie. She came right in and
11
continuously embraced us most affectionately. She was surprised at how she had encountered us and was extremely happy to see us.
12
So we had her sit down at the table with us and ordered a meal for her. Afterwards we went up with her to
13
our room and remained talking at length about
Baghdad. She said that it has been 37 years since
14
she left
Baghdad. Yet she recalled everything up to this very moment, even
15
the old songs. But the poor thing is very old and the hair on her head is growing
16
white. She was much taken by my mother and I showed her many photographs of
Baghdad and especially
17
photographs of our family. She was overcome by wonder when she saw such changes as had happened
18
in the family. At
4:00 we took her with us and went to the market to buy a few
19
things. Then we went to her husband's shop and found her youngest son there. He is named
20
Paul and is 10 years old. Her elder daughter is married and has a
21
boy. We kept walking after leaving the store until we came to the railway station.
22
Then we said our goodbyes and she insisted that tomorrow we come and spend the day
23
at their house, in a place called
al-Matariyah
al-Matariyah: A small historical site located on the outskirts of Cairo of seeming importance to Christians. The site is home to a prominent obelisk, an ancient tree named after the Virgin Mary, and a Fresco of the Holy Family located in a local chapel(date unknown), and a small body of water colloquially called the “Jesus Well.”
, outside of town at a distance of
24
a half hour's walk and 10 minutes by railway. We returned to the hotel at sunset.
Page 082
01
June 6th
A stuffy and hot morning. I got up at
6:30 and changed my clothes.
02
Because today is Sunday we had arranged yesterday with
Monsieur Auguste
03
that he would come to us at
8:00 and take us with him to church to hear mass.
04
From there we would go to the station and to
Effie's house.
Auguste came right at the set
05
time. We took him and went to a small church. We saw that all
06
Cairo
the masses had finished and that another one would be held at
10:00. But that was very
07
late and the weather was getting hot. So we decided that it would be better to go to
08
the railway and get ourselves tickets to
al-Matariyah. We hired a carriage and went to
09
the station. It was
9:15 and we got return tickets for 12 standard piasters
10
for the four of us. At
9:30 we boarded the train and it set out. We journeyed along, stopping every
11
10 minutes at a station, until we arrived at
10:00 in
al-Matariyah. We got off
12
and went to
Effie's place. The weather was getting hotter and hotter and the ground
13
was boiling hot because it is dry sand. We entered and they were happy
14
to welcome us.
Auguste had gone to be with some of his friends. We went into a room
15
and shut all the doors and windows because the blazing heat was extremely
16
powerful. At
noon it got to 112º Fahrenheit and I can say
17
that in
Baghdad there is no heat like this. So an hour after noon we sat down
18
to breakfast at which time Effie's son
Alphonse came, the one who works
19
at the railway. He is a youth of 21 years. The poor fellow was sick
20
from the heat. Finally at
4:15 we said our goodbyes and left to catch the train
21
that leaves at
4:30. The sun here was very hot and the weather
22
was dry, saam-like, and scorching. They used to say that
Africa
23
is hot and yet we did not believe it. At
4:30 the train came and we boarded it.
Page 083
01
There was not a single person on board because of the intensity of the heat.
Auguste came as well. We arrived
02
in
Cairo at
5:00 and decided to visit
Yousif Serpos who arrived today from
03
Alexandria. When we were in
Port Sa'id we wrote him a letter informing him of
04
our arrival here and they sent the letter there for him. Yesterday at sunset a telegram came from him telling us that tomorrow
05
he would be in
Cairo. So we went with
Auguste
06
to his residence and entered and went up to the third floor where we saw him. He was happy to see us and
07
his wife came too, who is quite young, perhaps
08
22 years old.  We left
09
their place after an hour. He invited us for dinner at his place tomorrow and we accepted. We had intended
10
to go and view the best place in
Cairo which is
al-Gizeh,
11
a large district on the other side of the
Nile River. So we hired a carriage for 3 francs
12
Giza Guizeh
and rode with
Auguste over leveled roads bordered by plantings
13
of barhama, where people in carriages and on horseback and bicycles were abundant as worms,
14
swarming. Then we came upon the
Nile River Bridge which is made of iron and stands
15
about 50 meters above the river. At its entrance there are two bridgeheads
16
with two lions, sculpted in steel, very large, and a truly
17
terrifying sight. We then crossed the bridge over the
Nile and came to
al-Gizeh, an extremely pleasant
18
place. It resembles a covered passage with barhama trees on both sides which
19
shade the center and carriages in abundance on two lanes, one lane going out
20
and the other coming back. And between them there are police on the lookout for anything the least bit
21
inappropriate. Here there is the best hotel to be found in
Cairo. It is called
22
the
Gazereh Palace Hotel
Gazereh Palace Hotel: This was a luxury hotel located in central Zamalek. Jointly managed by the French Gezirah Land Company and the Egyptian Hotels Company, the building was converted to a hotel during the late 19th century (only a few years before Alexander’s visit); it had previously been a palace of Khedive Ismail. The hotel was famed for its luxury, and it was a popular location with European tourists.
and it is truly a sight to see.
23
People who have seen it say that its like is not to be found in
Europe because it is as large
24
as the largest palace. In it are more than 300 rooms, an electricity
Page 084
01
generating facility, and huge theatres. In front the ground is planted with all
02
kinds of flowers. Every 10 cubits there are statues and electric lights
03
fill it inside and out. In short it is very elegant. Then we returned from this
04
place which is also used in the winter for betting on the horses
05
at
7:30.
06
June 7th
I awoke at
6:30 in the morning. The weather was still stuffy.
07
It seems that these are the hottest days here. After drinking tea
Monsieur Auguste came to take us
08
and we hired a carriage and went to see the sisters of
Yousif Serpos
Yousif Saryos: A resident of Alexandria who had two children and two sisters, Mariam and Touza, who had recently lost her husband.
, that is,
09
Mariam and
Touza, whose residence is a half an hour from here. On our way we went into
10
the place of a dressmaker who is sewing a coat for my mother. Here I saw something worth
11
mentioning, something wondrous and rare. This dressmaker has a son some 35 years old.
12
I saw with my own eyes that he was blind, since the age of twenty, and yet he has learned to play
13
the piano. This poor fellow was inspired by Allah and so long as he has been blind he has been giving piano lessons
14
to many people. Beyond that he composes music and writes the notes down in
15
notebooks and teaches them to students despite being blind to the ultimate degree. This is something
16
that amazed me and will never happen again. We arrived at the house of the
17
Serpos daughters and went up to their place. They greeted us dressed in black for both
18
their sister and
Touza's husband,
Iskander Nassour.
Parson Boutros Abed came here too, the one who
19
was the director of the
Chaldean school in
Baghdad six years ago. The poor fellow has lost much
20
weight and is now in charge of the church that was sponsored by Antony's wife
21
who lives at the same building with
Yousif Serpos
22
but on the floor below. Then after leaving
Mariam and
Touza's home,
23
Parson Boutros went with us to have a look at the church that
Page 085
01
belongs to
Antoine Abdul-Mesih's wife. We entered and found it pleasant. It was not
02
very large and as yet unfinished. They are still painting but the interior is lovely and
03
holds only about 500 people. Up to now she has spent 7000 pounds on it.
04
We returned to the hotel at
12:00 and had breakfast. Afterwards at
5:00
Auguste came
05
and took us to visit Antony's wife
Helene. She received us
06
in the diwan. She is old and deaf, about 65 years of age. Since we had decided that
07
we would dine at
Yousif's place we said our goodbyes and went up to the floor above. There
08
we were seated in the diwan and
Yousif and his wife entered later.
Yousif entertained
09
us to the best of his ability. Then we decided that after dinner we would go and take the air in
10
the surroundings of
Cairo.
Yousif's wife is young, 20 years old, and she plays the piano quite well.
11
She played a number of pieces for us, especially some melodies that I used to hear in
12
Baghdad. Then I thought of the homeland and wished I were there. We sat down to dine at
9:30 and
13
the table was quite lovely. We finished at
11:00 and then took two carriages
14
to the bridge district that they call
kopri
Kopri district: Possibly a reference to the area around Gezira Bridge. Constructed in 1872, the bridge linked the East Nile and the island of Zamalek. The bridge has since been demolished, and today the Qasr-e-Nile bridge serves the purpose that the Gezira Bridge once served.
. But how pleasant the view is there
15
on the roads with trees on both sides and electric and gas lights
16
on both lanes. There is something especially beautiful at the bridgehead where the rays of light cast
17
a charming and even glow. We returned at
12:00 to the hotel and said farewell to
18
Yousif and his wife. We arranged with them that tomorrow we would go to the
Palace of Antiquities
Palace of Antiquities: Cairo’s Museum of Antiquities, which held most relics from Egypt’s ancient past. It was moved to Giza in 1891 following a flood that damaged the previous location. Soon after Alexander’s visit, the goods in the museum were moved once more.
,
19
that is to say, the
Musée. Today I sent a number of letters to
Baghdad, that is, to
Johnny
20
Kasperkhan,
Nassoury,
Jamil, and to
Rapha'il. I also sent
Johnny the regulations
21
I obtained from the president of the university in
Beirut.
22
June 8th
I got up in the morning and changed my clothes. The weather was still
23
very stuffy. After we drank tea at
8:00 the
Khowajas,
24
Auguste, and
Yousif, came to take us to the exhibit of Egyptian antiquities.
Page 086
01
So at
8:30 we hired a carriage and rode toward the bridge. We crossed and took a street called
02
al-Giza. It is completely shaded by barhama trees on both sides, which cast a shadow
03
over the middle. Here the breeze was blowing pleasantly and the zephyr was cheering to the heart.
04
Half an hour later we arrived at the
Palace of Antiquities in
Giza, which they call
Le Musée.
05
The Palace of Antiquities in Giza
It consists of a huge orchard with a
06
very large saray in the middle which was previously the residence of the former khedive
07
Isma'il Pasha. Now it has been made into an exhibit which houses all the Egyptian finds
08
discovered in these lands. Because today is Tuesday admission is free to all visitors.
09
Then we reached the gate and the palace came into view. It is a most excellent thing for its sublime architecture
10
and decorative workmanship. We entered and they asked us for the canes and umbrellas
11
because they feared that something inside might be broken. We entered the first room and saw
12
the embalmed bodies that are the
Momies d'Egypte. They are desiccated but
13
in the state in which they died, except for being desiccated and black. All their jewelry and clothes
14
are here as are the shrouds. They are very ancient, no less
15
Le Musée
than 3000 years old. Finally we went into room after room in this
16
huge, pleasant palace, all decorated and dazzling and far better
17
than the finest houses of
Damascus, which astonished us. So here we saw
18
all that they had discovered of this ancient people. Their clothes, idols, rings
19
and gold work, coffins, furniture, tools, mirrors, books, jewelry,
20
articles of war, beads and their inscriptions on linen or tree leaves, and so on, and
21
other artifacts that bewilder the mind and confound one's wits.
22
This palace contains nearly 90 rooms all filled
23
with such artifacts which are a sight to see and which open one's eyes
24
to ancient things. Here all these objects are stored in covered boxes
Page 087
01
of glass and crystal to prevent their being touched. We also saw their ships, boats, oars,
02
and so on. Actually we kept on touring until
11:00 and had still not finished. We were extremely tired
03
from being on our feet and so we went downstairs after we had looked at everything, got into the carriage, and returned to our place
04
quite thoughtful and impressed by this pleasant visit. In the afternoon
05
Khowaja Yousif and his wife came to visit us. At sunset we went to enjoy the fresh air
06
in the
Azbakiyah Garden.
07
June 9th
Today I woke up in the morning, that is to say, at
5:00 because we had decided to go and see
08
the extraordinary pyramids. The morning was pleasant and not too hot.
Monsieur Auguste
09
came to us and at
10 minutes past 6 we got into a carriage and rode toward
10
The Pyramids Pyramides
the bridge in order to take the road which will lead us to the pyramids. So we crossed and went between
11
the barhama trees on both sides and among long, straight roadways.
12
The sun was casting shadows and a very nice morning breeze blew. At last we arrived at
13
7:45 at the pyramids which are truly one of the wonders of the world.
14
A hotel called
Mena's House
Mena House Hotel: A hotel near Cairo and the Giza Pyramids. The site was converted into a hotel after its 1885 acquisition by an English family. The hotel began to stay open year-round around 1890; this marked a shift from other hotels, which typically closed during the summer. The hotel was incredibly luxurious, as it included tennis courts, high-end chefs, and the first hotel swimming pool in Cairo.
is nearby
15
which is extremely pleasant and well-decorated. But before we arrived at the pyramids
16
a crowd of people wanting to act as our guides gathered around us. They were rushing toward the carriage and quarreling
17
amongst themselves. We rebuffed them and did not want any of them but they did not make way
18
and were truly quite annoying. We told them that we wanted none of them at all yet they did not give up
19
but, this time, went and brought their camels and riding animals. So we left them behind, like dogs, and went
20
toward the first of the pyramids which from afar appeared a small thing to us. These
21
pyramids are built of great blocks of marble laid one on top of the other and
22
are a sight to see. The height of these pyramids is 470 feet.
23
They suppose that the kings of the ancients when they ascended to the throne
24
had deep tombs made for them at a depth of 400 feet. Above them they constructed
Page 088
01
these huge mountains, that are the pyramids, because they believed that their souls
02
after death would return on the
Day of the Last Judgment to take on their bodies and live deathless
03
for all eternity. Before dying one must direct that after he dies
04
they lay up his body in the tightest possible place so that it receive no breath of wind
05
or air and for that reason too they embalmed them. This could possibly be true.
06
After viewing the first pyramid we went toward the
Sphinx,
07
which here they call
Abul-Hawl. We were amazed by its size and massive workmanship.
08
We observed as much as our strength allowed because the heat was very strong and the ground
09
was not easy to walk on because it was sandy, hot, and rose and fell.
10
So we descended and took to the carriage. It was
9:30 and we went back to where
11
we had come from. Thus we arrived at the hotel at
10:50 and paid the carriage fare of 35 standard
12
piasters. After breakfast
Effie and her son,
Alphonse, arrived
13
and stayed until
6:00. Then they left the hotel giving us their word that they would return
14
tomorrow afternoon to say our goodbyes. At sunset we took
Auguste and went to
15
al-Azbakiyah to listen to the music for an hour. Then we returned to our place.
16
June 10th
I got up at
7:00. The morning was like yesterday. After
17
we drank tea we went all together to the
bath which is 10
18
minutes from here in order to bathe. We paid 6 standard piasters each. Truly
19
this bath was very pleasing. It is made in the European style and women and men can
20
go there because it is entirely divided into rooms and pools in the European style.
21
We returned after an hour. This is our last day here in
Cairo and tomorrow
22
we will take the train to
Alexandria. So today we have nothing
23
to do. We breakfasted and asked the hotel owner to present
24
us with the bill. I really loved
Cairo very much
Page 089
01
and am sad to leave it. I will certainly see no better. In the afternoon
02
Monsieur Auguste visited. We took him and went about bidding farewell to
Egypt.
03
When we returned at sunset we found
Effie's daughter
Eveline at our place
04
with her husband and son. Her husband's name is
Georges Kahil and truly
05
both of them are young, the girl probably 18 years old and the husband possibly
06
only 20. We were quite happy to see them and they us. They left after a half an hour
07
and we said our goodbyes. They told us that
Effie directed them to give us her greetings since
08
she did not have time to come into town.
09
10
11
12
June 11th
I GOT UP IN THE morning at
6:00 because we have to prepare our things to travel by
13
the train that leaves at
9:30. So after drinking tea we arranged all our things.
14
At
8:00
Auguste arrived and
Regina Madame Fara came down from
15
upstairs. A half an hour later we hired two carriages and bade goodbye to
16
Regina. We paid the hotel charges, which amounted to nearly 8 English
17
pounds, boarded the carriages, and rode to the railway station.
18
As soon as we arrived we got our tickets and took a place
19
in second class. They charge for the trunks here also. When, like this, we
20
came from
Port Sa'id they took 10 francs for the two trunks. Then
21
Yousif Serpos, his wife and children, and
Parson Boutros came
22
to bid us goodbye. At
9:30 the train whistled and we bade everyone goodbye,
Page 090
01
and especially
Auguste was very upset by our parting, as were we.
02
He was our companion in
Egypt, with us the whole time, and he never stinted in doing anything for us.
03
So we left
Egypt behind. The train pulled out of the
Station heading
04
toward
Alexandria. I was truly quite sad to leave
Cairo
05
Alexandria
for it is a city worth remembering and seeing and it is superior to all the places that
06
we have seen before. We departed at
9:30 / at
10:10
Benha, departed at
10:15 /
07
at
10:52
Tanta, departed at
11:05 / at
11:15
Kafr el-Zayyat, departed at
11:16 /
08
at
11:55
Damanhour, departed at
12:00 / at
12:40
Sidi-Gaber, departed at
12:45.
09
At
1:00 in the afternoon we arrived in
Alexandria. Since I have
10
a friend here with whom I have kept up a correspondence for three years on the subject of stamps,
11
I had written him a letter from
Cairo some days ago. I told him that I had arrived
12
here and would see him soon. He replied saying that he was quite pleased and would wait for me
13
at the station on the day of my arrival. When the train arrived at the station here I met
14
my friend. His name is
S. E. Couddésu and he was very happy to see me. So immediately
15
we hired a carriage and loaded our trunks. We made up our minds before anything else to go and take
16
the cabin on the ship
Sutlej
Sutleg [Thomas and Cook ship]
, which is one of the
T. & C ships.
17
Then we rode through the streets of
Alexandria and I was impressed by this construction
18
which is far superior to
Cairo. We boarded the ship and took the cabin.
19
Couddésu was with us. After we left our trunks we returned by carriage
20
to have a better look at the town. So we toured its markets and locales. I saw
21
that it resembles
Cairo to some extent. Although there are neither trees by the roads
22
nor big gardens its streets are paved with marble. Then we went to the post office to inquire if
23
there are letters for us from
Baghdad. We did not find a thing and wondered
24
how it is that our family has not written anything to us by now. The last letter we received was in
Page 091
01
Beirut. It has been a long time and we have had no news at all from them. We returned to the ship at
3:00
02
because it will sail at
4:00. Then I gave my friend the stamps, a few
03
foreign stamps and others numbering about 50. He bade me goodbye and left. I also gave him a letter
Antoine
04
Guilietti wrote to his Aunt here as a kind of recommendation and I begged of him to tell
05
Messieurs
Bavastro
et
Sakakini that I deeply regretted not having seen them
06
in person. At
4:00 sharp the ship sailed from the
Port
07
where there are about 100 ships, among them the ship Turkistan that came
08
from
Basrah and will also sail immediately to
Marseille. Truly
09
the port of
Alexandria is excellent, pleasant and very large.
10
So we left the port and are now at sea. Our ship is extremely large and can transport nearly
11
5000 tons. Thank God it has a cargo and does not rock like the one we came on
12
from
Beirut to
Port Sa'id. It travels quite pleasantly
13
and does not upset us in the slightest. Here we made friends with a French man
14
named
Monsieur Chartraine and his wife. He works at the railroad
15
in
Cairo and is a good person. There are only 30 passengers with us, in both first and second
16
class. One thing is not good here and that is the food. It is quite insufficient. They serve
17
That was only at sunset but in the daytime they serve food about 4 times, but only a simple meal at sunset.
no more than two simple dishes. After supper which was at sunset
6:30,
18
I went up onto the deck of the ship. The moon was in its tenth day and cast
19
a lovely light onto this vast and violent sea. The weather was very cold here
20
and there was a great difference between here and
Cairo. The clouds resembled winter days.
21
June 12
This morning the sea is fearsome and upsetting but not
22
so much and there are signs of its getting worse. I am quite afraid of it because
23
it pains me. The ship is very big and there is not much cargo.
24
We approached the shores of
Greece just after noon. The wind blew
Page 092
01
hard and the ship tossed and turned more. I began to toss and turn inside also
02
and my health changed. In the afternoon we passed islands, the
Ionian Islands, in the distance.
03
The ship never ceased rocking more and more, and I likewise, until sunset when I came to sit
04
at the table. My stomach turned and I went down to the cabin without eating
05
a morsel. I was feeling much worse and my insides turned all the more. I threw myself
06
on the bed and began to vomit unceasingly.
07
June 13
That night turned out to be the hardest night of my entire life.
08
Until now I had never suffered such agony which I continue to suffer
09
to this very moment. Left like a fish on the bed, from the tossing
10
of the accursed ship, I threw up nearly 15 times during the night and have been throwing up
11
like that until now. The sea is quite agitated and I feel my head
12
is being uprooted. They advised me that I should go up on deck but
13
it was even more miserable and until sunset I suffered the torments of martyrs.
14
This is the first time I have felt anything of this sort. May God help anyone in whose head
15
such a thing happens. I was in the same state until night, growing extremely weak and without
16
enough power in me to walk. I feared that this night would be like the previous one
17
so we sent for the physician and he gave me a sleeping draught. However, God be praised, the sea
18
became less agitated.
19
June 14th
Tonight I slept well though reeling from fatigue
20
and lack of food. From the day before yesterday until now I have eaten nothing
21
at all. Since we will arrive today in
Brindisi I had to prepare my things for leaving
22
the ship and the accursed sea which I had begun to hate like the devil.
23
I longed for travel by land which is a thousand times better. After I drank
Page 093
01
a little tea I changed my clothes and arranged my things. I was devastated
02
by utter weakness and did not have the strength to take a step. At
7:00
03
the accursed ship began to toss and turn again and the sea grew more agitated. There is no power
04
and no strength save in God the Sublime and Mighty! Then I, in all my weakness, started
05
Brindisi
to get sick again. Truly if it were not that
Brindisi is two hours from here
06
I would inevitably have died! Then I sat down at table and the ship
07
tossed and turned and finally went back and forth. This was because we had neared
08
the shores of
Italy, that is to say,
Brindisi. At
8:30 the ship entered the port
09
and settled somewhat. Then at
9:10 it proceeded to the shore or the
Quai.
10
They lowered the gangway and we disembarked from the ship. I am happy at being separated from
11
the sea but distressed because of my utterly low spirits. What good health
12
I had gathered along the way I lost in a single day and night.
Brindisi
13
resembles
Port Sa'id a bit but all its people are Italians.
14
The town is not large but arranged like in
Europe. We had hoped that
15
after our arrival we would leave here immediately but when we asked about the train
16
that goes to
Naples they said that it had left 5 minutes ago.
17
There is another to
Foggia, or half way to
Naples,
18
which is due to leave at
1:10 in the afternoon. So we had to wait until
19
then. At
1:00 the train appeared so we took our things and went
20
to reserve a place in second class. Here in
Italy there is a charge
21
by weight for travelers' trunks. They took 17 francs for our two trunks
22
as the fee direct to
Naples. At
1:15 we traveled from
Brindisi
23
by rail, then to stay overnight at a small town called
Foggia
Page 094
01
because the direct road to
Naples from here is very long and takes more than 15 hours.
02
Thus we arrived at
1:33 in
S. Vito D'Otranto, left at
1:35 =
2:05
Carovigno, left
2:08 =
03
2:27
Ostouni, left
2:40 =
2:55
Cisternino, left
3:00 =
3:15
Fazano,
04
left
3:25 =
3:42
Monopoli, left
3:50 =
4:07
Polignanio, left
4:10 =
05
4:30
Mola, left
4:33 =
4:45
Noicattaro, left
4:57 =
5:15
Bori,
06
left
5:30. These three latter stations are very large & their
07
towns are also big.
5:50 New station, left
6:05 =
6:11
Molfetta,
08
left
6:15 =
6:30
Biceglia, left
6:33 =
6:42 , left
7:.. =
09
7:20
Barletta, left
7:28 =
7:44
Ofantino, left
7:46 = From
10
Brindisi to here, we were going alongside the sea but
11
now tooked the desert. =
8:15
Cirgnola, left
8:20 =
8:45
Ortonova,
12
left
8:47 = arrived @
9:10
Foggia
.
13
We arrived here after sunset, darkness had set in but there is electric
14
and gas light in the streets. We got off the train, took a carriage, and went with someone
15
to a place where we could sleep. So we arrived there and the place did not look good. Yet we took a room
16
and ordered food. I have not stopped being weak and am not feeling well. After we had dinner
17
we went to bed. This place is called
Albergo di Villa di Napoli.
18
June 15th
We got up in the morning at
5:00 because the train leaves
19
for
Naples at
6:15. We rushed to prepare ourselves and paid
20
Foggia
the 7 francs that we owed. After we drank some milk
21
we went to the station and boarded the train that goes directly to
Naples
22
without all the stops. Its name is
Expresse.
23
From
Foggia at
6:15 =
6:52.
Bovino left
7:20 =
Page 095
01
7:37
Savignano left
7:40 =
7:50
Pianerottola L
7:57 =
02
Passed a long tunnel for 6 minutes =
8:00
Ariano L
8:03 =
03
8:20
Montegalvo, left
8:23 =
8:40
Apice-Argengelo L
8:42 =
04
8:49
Ponte-Valentino L
8:50 =
8:55
Benevento L
9:05 =
05
9:23
Casalduni Ponte L
9:25 =
9:35
Solopaga L
9:37 =
06
9:42
Terese Cereto L
9:45 =
9:56
Frasso-Dugenta L
9:58 =
07
Here, we passed under a bridge of 3 stages.
08
Naples
=
10:13
Madoloni L
10:15 =
10:25
Caserta L
10:35 =
09
10:52
Aversa L
10:55 =
11:00
Fratemajoregroma L
11:03 =
10
11:08
Afragola L
11:10 = Arrived
Naples
11:15.
11
Thus, we neared the famous
Naples little by little. From
Foggia to
12
here we were traveling through pleasant green mountains with extremely beautiful scenery.
13
After we arrived at the station we hired a carriage, took our belongings, and went
14
to rent ourselves a room in a hotel called the
Pension Suisse.
15
But it is small and dirty and we bargained to pay 18 francs a day. Because
16
I have a friend here with whom I correspond on the subject of stamps, I wrote a letter to him from
17
Brindisi so that he would come to the station and meet me. But upon my arrival
18
I did not see him and I suppose my letter did not reach him. After we finished breakfast
19
we went to look at the town which is as pleasant as ever
20
could be. It has buildings and parks such as we have not seen before
21
and likewise its palaces and theatres. It is on the sea and its location
22
is lovely. There are many people here, some 600,000 souls. Especially these
23
days when
Sultan Humberto and his son and his daughter-in-law
Page 096
01
are in residence, the whole town, the markets, and palaces are adorned with flowers
02
and other things. It is true that
Naples is a paradise. After we toured the city
03
I wanted to go and look for my friend because we are here by ourselves and do not know
04
Naples
anybody. So we tried and with great difficulty found his place in a long street called
05
Via Chiaja, number 20. I went up to his room and rang the bell.
06
A woman came out and told me that he was not at home but at his office, and would return
07
at
8:00, after sunset. So I wrote him a note telling him that I had arrived
08
in
Naples and wished to see him. I also gave him my address and begged him
09
to come to my place as soon as possible. Then the woman immediately brought me a note
10
that my friend
Monsieur D'Ovidio wrote saying that he did not
11
know when I would honor
Naples and that only my letter from
Cairo had reached him.
12
In his note he also asked me to give him my address. I was truly pleased
13
by this and forgave him for not coming to the station because my letter did not reach him
14
from
Brindisi. So we returned from the street to our hotel to await
15
Monsieur D'Ovidio's arrival. We had not been there an hour when someone knocked at
16
the door of the room. I opened it and there was
D'Ovidio himself. I greeted
17
him and he me and I introduced him to my parents. He was very happy that we had come and apologized
18
for being late, saying that his wife had just now sent him both my note and letter which I sent
19
from
Brindisi that arrived with us on the same train.
20
After a long talk he presented himself to us as a true friend and said
21
that he was ready to be of service to us in everything we desire here and that he would go eat dinner
22
and afterwards return to take us for an evening tour of the enjoyable sites in
Naples.
23
We dined and afterwards
Monsieur D'Ovidio came and we left to wander about in
Page 097
01
the superb sights of
Naples. The people swarmed like worms and the carriages were coming and going.
02
Naples
We passed whatever there was to look at. First we went first to the
Teatro St. Carlo
03
and then to the
Galleria and the
Palais Royal. Then we went to the seaside
04
across from
Mt. Vesuve which was erupting and we could see
05
fire covering the mountain. I really do not know what to say about
Naples
06
and all its entertainments. Two hours later we returned to the hotel.
07
June 16th
June 16th
The morning is pleasant and the weather here is good. The weather is not at all
08
hot. Yesterday we arranged with
Monsieur D'Ovidio that he would come and get us at
10:00
09
and we would go to tour
Naples in a coach. At
9:00 he sent me a letter by
10
one of his clerks expressing his regret but that he is extremely busy and it is impossible for him to accompany
11
us now but he sent his clerk and his carriage. So we entered
12
the carriage and went to the vicinity of famous and great places. We began to climb, little
13
by little, up into the mountains where the entire city came into view. What a beautiful sight it was,
14
on the sea and
Mt. Vesuvius among other things, and those palaces hanging in
15
Napoli
the middle of the green mountains. We toured around the town and then descended and went to my friend's office.
16
It was then
1:30 and he promised to meet there so he could take us
17
to the
Port, board a jolly boat and go to sea.
18
He was not ready when we arrived but after 10 minutes he came
19
and apologized for being unable to accompany us in the morning. Then we went to the seashore,
20
boarded a boat and went out to sea. How pleasant was the view of
21
the town from the sea. Then the sea grew rough and the jolly boat began
22
to toss and turn. I remembered my time on the ship and my stomach grew
Page 098
01
upset. I asked him to take us back to shore because the wind at sea pains me.
02
We went back after an hour. Here in the harbor there are two
Ports,
03
Naples
one for the navy and the other for trade, and it has a
Phare that is
04
a lighthouse on the sea. Anchored in the naval harbor were two Italian warships.
05
One of them, named the
Sardaigna, has 7 funnels and is extremely large.
06
At sunset we returned to our place having decided that we would go after
07
dinner to the
Theatre, that is, to the
Opera called
San Carlo.
08
We bought the tickets for two francs each. Before we returned to the hotel my friend
09
took us to walk by the sea. On one side is a big garden and the sea
10
is on the other. The most pleasant of all places in
Naples are here. The carriages
11
and people were passing like the sands of the sea and they say that in the entire world
12
one will not find as pleasant a sight as this place. Finally we returned and so too
13
did
Monsieur D'Ovidio return home. It was decided that we would wait for him at the theater door,
14
that is, at
9:00. We returned at
8:30 to the theater. We waited for him until
15
arrived. We entered and took our seats. I was fascinated by this entryway and such a beautiful scene.
16
The performance began and there were about 1000 persons in the audience. They were
17
performing the drama according to the ordering of the
Orchestra. The music was
18
playing and accompanied their singing. The scene was truly quite humbling.
19
They performed a ballet afterward, which captured the gaze of all those present,
20
and they applauded them as a sort of expression of gratitude. The drama did not end until an hour
21
past midnight. Then we left the theater and exchanged goodbyes with my friend. He said
22
that tomorrow he would come to say goodbye before my departure. The train
23
leaves at
8:15 in the morning.
Page 099
01
June 17th
We got up in the morning and the weather was fine with a westerly wind. We drank
02
tea hastily and afterwards arranged our things and paid the hotel bill.
03
We then hired a carriage, went to the station, and took our seats. I was
04
sad having not seen
Monsieur D'Ovidio again. It is possible he had forgotten
05
to come. The train set out from
Naples at
8:20, heading
06
toward
Rome. I am sorry to be parted from this utterly lovely town.
07
8:44
Cancello, L
8:45 =
8:59
Caserta, L
9:01 =
08
9:08
S. Maria, L
9:09 =
9:15
Capua, L
9:17 =
09
9:34
Saparanise, L
9:35 =
9:49
Teano, L
9:51 =
10
10:03
Canianolla, L
10:05 =
10:40
Cassino , L
10 :43 =
11
11:04
Roccasecca, left
11:05 =
11:16
Ceprano, L
11:21 =
12
11:42
Ceccano , L
11:43 =
11:53
Frosinone, L
11:57 =
13
12:29
Segni, left
12:34 =
1:15
Ciocupino, left
1 :16. =
14
15
16
From here the famous
Rome appeared to us at a distance. The first thing that came into view
17
was the precious dome of
Saint Peter's Cathedral. We arrived at the station at
1:30 and after
18
we hired a carriage and loaded our belongings we rode through the markets and streets to find
19
a hotel. Today is a major holy day, Corpus Christi Day, and all the shops are
20
closed and one finds only a few open. The people are also very scarce in the streets.
21
Finally we looked at two hotels and found one that is small and nice but for lodging only,
Page 100
01
for 7 francs a day. It is called the
Hotel d'Orient and is in the
Piazza
02
Pole, number 8. The hotel overlooks a large square and a square to one side,
03
called
Piazza Colona. After we took two rooms and left our things
04
Rome
we went out to eat at a
Restaurent. After eating we returned to
05
our lodgings. In the afternoon we went to the residence of the head of the
Carmelite Fathers to ask if
06
he had a letter addressed to us from
Baghdad. He said he had nothing
07
and if any letter comes he will send it to us. He is a very pleasant man and placed himself
08
at our disposal for anything we might need here. So we asked him only if he might send
09
a guide with us when we visit the
Vatican. He said that tomorrow he would send a priest from
10
his parish church to accompany us there. Then we thanked him for his kindness and left. Since
11
I have a letter of recommendation from the son of
Ossany Boutros in
Baghdad, to his brother
12
here,
Gabriel in the
Propaganda
Propaganda: Branch of the Catholic Church entrusted with expanding Catholicism and of managing Church affairs in non-Catholic countries. This branch of the Church operated in non-Catholic Europe, the Middle East, the Americas, and elsewhere. A few years after Alexander’s travels, it expanded its operations under the direction of Pope Pious X.
, I wished to see him. So we went to
13
the
Propaganda and saw some Chaldean and Syriac priests at the door.
14
Then by chance as the scholars were leaving for the break I saw
Mikha'il, the son of
15
Nazo a resident of
Baghdad, and greeted him. I was quite pleased to see a son of
16
our homeland. Speaking of
Gabriel Ossany, they told me that he is busy at the moment
17
but he will have time tomorrow afternoon. So I gave the letter to
Mikha'il
18
for delivery. We returned at sunset to the hotel and afterwards went
19
to dine at the
Restaurent in the
Piazza Colona.
20
Here we listened to the Italian military band play music. There was a huge crowd
21
of people coming and going in this square which is as large
22
as two thousand cubits in length and width. At
9:30 we returned to our lodgings.
Page 101
01
June 19
I got up in the morning and the weather was cloudy and a bit rainy. After we drank tea
02
Saint Peter's Basilica Basilique St. Pietro
we changed our clothes and I went with
my father to the
Dominican Fathers because
03
we have letters of recommendation to them from
His Grace the Papal Legate in
Mosul.
04
We finally found their residence which was in the
Piazza Tretone. We entered
05
Rome Roma
and presented our card to a door-keeper priest and he returned and said that the
Father General
06
is engaged and is not accepting anyone. We were truly annoyed very much by
07
this and understood that there had been a mistake. So we said to him, here is a letter to him from the
Papal Legate, give it to him.
08
And here is another to the
Père Procureur,
09
give that to him too with our greetings. He then said, "You had best wait until I return
10
for an answer." He came back 10 minutes later and said, "If you please," took us and we went
11
to the great monastery to the
Père Procureur whose name is
12
Père Cronier. He received us with a hearty welcome for he had received
13
news of our coming. Then after a long talk he said, "It is possible that I can go
14
with you to the
Superior," because we came to ask the
Superior for a letter
15
of recommendation to
Vienna. So we went to the
Superior General, whose name is
Père Bodin
Père Bodin
.
16
He came and received us appearing to be very much a man of fine character.
17
He apologized for having been busy and we had a long talk with him about
Turkey. Afterwards
18
we begged a letter of recommendation from him to
Vienna and he immediately wrote one and gave it to us.
19
Likewise he wrote another to
the Head of the Vatican asking
20
him to show us around all the places of the
Vatican. We had decided that
21
tomorrow we would go in the morning because it will be open from
8:00 to
1:00 in the afternoon.
22
Then we thanked him for his kindness and we returned to our residence. A few minutes later, there came to us
Page 102
01
S. Sebastian No. 10
a Carmelite priest sent by the head priest at whose place we had been yesterday
02
and we arranged with him that he would come tomorrow at
8:00 and take us to the
Vatican
03
and show us around everything. But after breakfast we went
04
to see
Saint Peter's Basilica, famed in all the world
05
and the like of which is not found in all the inhabited lands. So we hired a carriage.
06
We came to its square at
1:00 in the afternoon. We were stunned when we saw
07
the courtyard outside the Basilica which is larger than the
Piazza Colona
08
by 5 times. It is also encircled by pillars in 4 rows, like this.
On
09
the right and left there are two fountains than which there is none more magnificent.
10
We approached the door of the church and entered into the middle of the Basilica. We were amazed by
11
what we saw of refined marble work and by the size of the church, which is 500 paces in length
12
and 200 in width. It also has a dome which exceeds 500 feet in height. In truth
13
they are right when they say that this basilica has no peer in all the world. This is the truth
14
and it is impossible to elucidate in writing what is in it. This is the best of all
15
the sights we have seen from
Baghdad to here. Inside the church there are
16
about 25 thrones and the graves of all the Popes and statues of human figures. It is something that
17
astounds one. It also has 6 very large doors and is constructed entirely of porphyry,
18
excellent and polished. In short, whatever I say will be too little said about this Basilica that has become famous
19
in all the lands of the earth. After we looked around for about two hours and a half, we returned to
20
our place wondering at the works of mankind. I wrote a number of letters to
Baghdad,
21
that is to
Nassoury,
Jamil,
Johnny Pahlawan,
Father Philips,
Mr. Demello and Rozario,
22
our servant
Mansour, and
Albert Asfar. I also wrote a postcard to my friend
Hana Tabouni
23
in
Marseilles informing him that I will be with him in only a few days and then sent them all by post.
Page 103
01
June 20
The morning is cloudy.  At
8:00 the priest came who
03
it had been decided would accompany us on the visit to the
Vatican. But first we took him and went to see
04
The Vatican
Cardinal Jerome
Cardinal Jerome
who
5 years ago was
Head of the Carmelite Priests
Carmelite Priests: The Order of the Brothers of Our Lady of Mount Carmel or Carmelites. A Roman Catholic religious order founded in the 12th century on Mount Carmel, Israel.
.
05
His residence is not far from our hotel. So we arrived there and the Father went in to get us
06
permission to see him. Then we entered the house which was large and ascended to the room
07
of the Cardinal's private secretary. They told us that
Cardinal Jerome was busy at the moment and that 10 minutes later
08
he would greet us. After he finished we went in to him. He received us cheerfully and we sat
09
in the diwan. He is a person with very good manners. After the conversation we arose
10
and left his place. The Cardinal's private secretary named
...[illegible] asked us about
Father Anastas Marini
Father Anastas Marini
11
and sent him his regards. Then we left
the Cardinal's residence and took the
Omnibus to
12
the
Vatican square. We arrived there at
9:15 and my health continued to
13
decline. Thus we arrived at the
gate of the Vatican where there are some of the Papal Guards
14
who protect the Pope without wages. Then we went up about 100 wide steps
15
Vatican
and here got tickets to visit the whole
Vatican. As for the
Vatican
16
they say that it is the largest of all the palaces in the whole world. It was
17
founded by the
Popes Symmachus and Tiberius
Popes Symmachus and Tiberius: Pope Symmachus (498-514CE) built two episcopal residences in the Vatican, one on either side of the basilica, to be used for brief stays.
in
18
1473 and has 22 courtyards and 11,000 huge rooms decorated with
19
refined gilding and paintings, famous for color and unique in all the world
20
for their perfection because they were done by the brush of
Raphael Angelo, the premier painter of
21
all the ages who spent his entire life working on
the Vatican. The first place
22
we saw was the
Sixtine (Sistine Chapel) where the Pope celebrates mass on
Page 104
01
holidays. It is 40 meters long and contains very famous paintings, among them a unique picture
02
which is behind the throne and is as large as the entire wall. It is of the Last Judgment and the finest thing
03
that ever was. And all the walls and ceilings have pictures on them of all kinds. After leaving
04
The Vatican Vatican
the chapel there was the room of
Rapl Angelo
Rapl. Angelo: Possible reference to Rafael (Sanzio da Urbino), famous painter active in the 16th century. He has a series of namesake rooms in the Vatican, which are noted for their large frescoes. Noted for such works as The School of Athens and the Baptism of Constantine.
and then we came to the
Galleries of Paintings
05
which was founded in the time of
Pope Pius VII. In it are some paintings which are priceless
06
forever and incomparable. As for the
Galleries of Paintings
The Galleries of Paintings: [in the Sistine Chapel] Established in 1815 by Pius VII, although officially begun under his predecessor Pius VI in 1799. Contains a number of paintings by well-known artists, including Da Vinci and Caravaggio. During the time of Alexander’s travels, the paintings were contained in the Borgia Apartments.
, in it are some 50 rooms filled
07
with the finest brush paintings to be found on earth. In one room I saw a large picture,
08
nearly 30 meters long, a gift of the
Sultan of Austria
Sultan of Austria: Alexander may be referring erroneously to a painting by Jan Matejko, entitled John III Sobieski at Vienna. Matejko painted this scene in the mid-19th century in Poland, not under Ottoman rule. The painting is very large; Alexander’s size estimates may have been an exaggeration. It is contained in the “Sobieski” room of the Vatican galleries. http://www.galenfrysinger.com/vatican_city.htm
to
the Pope. It depicts
09
the Siege of Vienna by the Turks and is, in short, a most excellent thing. After we finished
10
with this place we went up to
the Gallery of Antiquities, or
the Meseum,
11
which is unique in the world for the ancient Roman antiques it contains, like
12
idols, animals and other things that astound a person. There are some 100 rooms full
13
of these sorts of things. Here I saw the
Pope's Confessor and
the Pope's Private Secretary
14
passing by on the loggia. On all the loggias there are guards dressed in official uniforms stationed
15
to keep watch. It was
11:30 and, thus far, we have not seen but half of the
Vatican quarter.
16
I am feeling quite poorly and became extremely tired from walking without ever stopping.
17
Finally we came up to the top floor. From here
Rome is visible to him, with all its churches and houses.
18
This place is the private residence of
the Pope so we obtained permission and visited his diwan and the place
19
where he sits at times when
the Sultans and Princes come to visit him. It is a most excellent diwan
20
and a sight to be seen. There are two things left that we have not yet seen and these are
the Gallery of Books
21
and
the Gallery of Treasures. For that purpose special permission was necessary
22
from
the Director General. As for
the Gallery of Books, it contains more than 100,000 volumes
Page 105
01
in all tongues on earth and
the Gallery of Treasures contains all the tiaras
02
in addition to the
Stone of ...[illegible]
Stone of [illegible]
. Then we went down from
the Vatican and it was
12:00, the time when
03
they close the doors. So we took the
Omnibus, went directly to the
Restaurent,
04
and had breakfast. I am quite feverish and so we returned to the hotel where I was seized by a raging fever
05
which continued to rise until nighttime.
06
June 21
Today is Sunday and a pleasant morning with sun. This
07
night I was suffering quite a bit from the high fever that was with me
08
until morning when it dropped somewhat. However I had grown very weak and could not
09
get out of bed. Only at sunset did I change my clothes
10
and go to eat in the
Restaurent.
11
June 22
I got up in the morning and the weather was fine. We decided to visit
12
the
Collosseum or the very ancient
Amphiteatre that the Romans
13
were using as a theatre. In it they released wild beasts to attack people
14
Collosseum
while the populace looked on. So at
8:30 we hired a carriage and went toward these ancient constructions
15
outside the city. They were built in
72 A.D. during the time of
Vespasian.
16
The
Collosseum consists of 3 stories of arches and every story
17
has 80 arches in it, each story with a different style. The first is
Doric,
18
the second
Jonic (Ionic), and the third
Corinthian. In this
Collosseum
19
over a period of 100 years 500 wild animals were killed. It is 157 feet high,
20
278 feet long, and 177 feet wide, and in it could be seated more than
21
100,000 people. Truly this place is a wondrous thing
22
and one of the most ancient constructions. We left the
Collosseum
Page 106
01
and came to other ancient remains. This is called the
Arch of Constantine,
02
a great arch of stone inscribed from top to bottom and adorned
03
with ancient images. They also call it the
Arch of Triomph
04
and it is one of the finest remains of
Rome. It was built in 315 A.D. and
05
Rome Roma
many more ancient remains are next to it, the creations of the earliest
06
Romans. To this very moment they have been left as they were and are well looked after. We returned
07
two hours later to the hotel. At
1:00 in the afternoon I wished to go
08
once more to the
Propoganda to see
Mikhail Nazo and especially
Gabriel Ossany and
09
whom I had not yet seen. So we all went there and asked for him. They came right away and were
10
very pleased to meet with people from their homeland. Then they promised us to get permission
11
from the
Principal so they could come with us tomorrow to visit the famous
Basilica of Saint Paul,
12
the same as the
Basilica of Saint Peter. They also told us that it is now the
Feast of Saint Ignatius
13
and that there is a church here dedicated to him. Today it is decorated and we must see it.
14
So we left their place and I promised them I would return in two hours to see if
15
they had gotten the permission. Otherwise we would travel to
Marseille tomorrow.
16
After we returned to the hotel, we went to visit the
Church of Saint Ignatius and saw that it was full crowded
17
of people. The
Orgue was playing, the people were glorifying God, there was a great tumult, and it was quite
18
lovely. It is half as large as the
Basilica of Saint Peter and contained some
19
3000 souls and yet there was much space. After we toured everything
20
we left and wanted to visit the
Pantheon which is the mausoleum of
King Victor Emmanuel,
21
the Sultan of
Italy, but we found the door closed and admissions closed.
22
However from the outside the place appeared very large and lofty.
23
At
4:30 I went to
Mikhail and
Gabriel. They told me that the
Principal gave them
24
permission and they will meet us at the hotel tomorrow at
10:00.
Page 107
01
June 22
This morning is pleasant with a westerly wind. Today my health is much improved.
02
At
9:30 after we had changed our clothes,
Mikhail and
Gabriel came to our place. We talked
03
St Paul's Basilica Basilique St. Paul
at length about
Baghdad. I showed them photographs of some people and they gave us theirs and
04
other things. An hour later they left promising to come at
4:30 in the afternoon
05
to accompany us to the Basilica of St. Paul. So at
4:30 they kept their word
06
and came to us. They brought
Father Samuel Jamil, the Chaldean who
07
has been here for some time and knows
Father Yousif Taweel who is in
Beirut.
08
Then we left together and we went by the
Tramway to the
Basilica of St. Paul.
09
We arrived there half an hour later and went in. We were truly quite amazed by
10
its size, the varieties of marble inside, and the
Mosaïque images,
11
something bewildering. This craft appears to be quite well known in
Rome
12
because they make with it large, masterful and very pleasant images. So inside
13
this famous basilica which is second only to the
Basilica of St. Peter
14
there are countless marble works. But what kind of marble is this that is comparable to
15
gold? To the right of the entrance is a pulpit made of green marble
16
and they told me that this is the equivalent of yellow gold. On the left hand
17
many pillars extend to the interior or to the doorway, that is to say, about 180
18
pillars of excellent porphyry, tall and shining from a single block.
19
Likewise on the side walls and above the area surrounding the pillars, one finds pictures
20
of all those who had become Popes wholly done in
Mosaïque work. In the middle
21
of the basilica one finds the
Tomb of Saint Paul, but his body only, because
22
they claim that his head when it was cut off was buried elsewhere. For that reason
Page 108
01
there is another church that bears the name of
Saint Paul, but much smaller than this one.
02
The Basilica of St. Paul is considered one of the most perfect basilicas in the world and second only to the Basilica
03
Basilica Basilique
of St. Peter which has no peer in all the world. This basilica,
04
the
Basilica of St. Paul, had been greatly damaged by a
fire
Fire: [in St.Paul's Basillica] Reference to Basilica of St. Paul Outside the Walls, built over the grave of St. Paul in the 4th century CE. The referenced fire occurred in 1823 and damaged significant portions of the church. The church was re-consecrated in 1855.
27 years ago.
05
The entire roof collapsed and most of the fine images were destroyed. From that time
06
to this the basilica has been undergoing rebuilding and also some of the buildings outside it
07
are still in renovations. We finished looking around,
08
and went outside with the other people there. On one side there is an area for refreshing oneself.
09
They sell wine and other things so we sat there for about a half an hour
10
and afterwards took the
Tramway and returned to town. The basilica is
11
outside the town two miles away. It is ...[blank] feet in length
12
and its width is likewise ...[blank] feet. On our way to the hotel we entered
13
another church, which is called
The Church of Jésus. It is also very pleasantly
14
decorated. It contains a wondrous picture and the
Tomb of Saint Ignatius.
15
Then we returned to the hotel at sunset and exchanged goodbyes with
Mikhail,
Gabriel, and
16
Father Jamil. We must leave tomorrow. I am truly very grateful
17
for all the kindness they have shown me.
18
19
20
June 23
I was up at
6:00. It is a pleasant morning with a little of chill. After
21
I dressed and drank tea I arranged my things and bound them up in preparation
22
for the journey. At
7:30 we left the
Hotel d'Orient and paid their bill of 42 francs.
Page 109
01
We hired a carriage, stowed our things, and drove to the train station.
02
After we arrived we freighted our two trunks directly to
Marseille and paid the bill of
03
Genoa Génes
28 francs. We boarded the
Express train that goes swiftly and without
04
delay. So at
8:00 sharp, we left the
Rome station.
05
9:25
Civatavecchia, left
9:30 /
9:46
Corvetto, left
9:47 =
06
10:40
Orbettelo, left
10:55 =
11:25
Grosetto , left
11:32 =
07
12:25
Campiglia , left
12:30 =
1:05
Cecena,left
1:16 =
08
1:52
Celle salvetti , left
1:55 /
2:15
Pisa a big town,
09
left
2:30 =
2:44
Vareggio, left
2:47 =
3:05
Pietrasanta, left
3:07/
10
3:20
Massa , left
3:21 =
3:26
Spetzia , left
3:28 =
11
3:40
Sarzana ,left
3:45 =
3:53
Vezzano, left
3:55 =
12
4:40
Levanto, ...
4:43 here we passed several
13
tunnels for 2 hours we were going each 1 second
14
under a long tunnel of 5 & 10 minutes I counted
15
about 50 & always alongside the sea.
16
4:58
Sestri Levanto, left
5:00 /
5:25
Chiavari, left
5:30.
17
At
6:37 we arrived at the
Genoa station and went into the town. We saw
18
some 20 of the hotels' private carriages awaiting the passengers and so we took the carriage
19
of the
Hotel de Genéve and rode to the hotel. We arrived and took
20
two rooms. I was feeling very weak from exhaustion. Before sunset we went to
21
a church across from the hotel, named
Annunziata, that is, the
Church of the Annunciation
Church of the Annunciation: Basilica della Santissima Annunziata, is a Catholic cathedral (1520) located in Genoa, Italy.
.
22
I was truly amazed by the work inside the church. The ceilings all had pictures
23
and gilding with frames matching the style of the building, astonishing. The church is also large and quite nice.
Page 110
01
Then we returned to the hotel and ate dinner. Afterwards we slept.
02
June 24
We arose at
7:00 and after washing and drinking tea came down
03
and paid the hotel bill, that is, 12 francs. The meal they had served
04
yesterday was not good at all and very costly.
 It is pleasant and organized like
Rome. It has electric carriages
06
and other things. After we finished at the hotel we took the carriage and went to
07
the station to travel to
Nice. We arrived at the station at
8:30.
08
The train does not depart until
9:20 so we sat and waited in the station.
09
At
9:00 we boarded the train and at
9:20 it pulled out of the station leaving
Genoa at
9:30
10
9:30
Sanpierd, left
9:32 =
9:44
Corniliagno, left
9:45/
11
9:59
Pegli, left
10:01 =
10:09
Voltri, left
10:10 =
12
10:27
Arenzano,left
10:30 =
10:40
Cogoletto, left
10:41 =
13
10:59
Gella, left
11:00 =
11:06
Albisolla, left
11:07 =
14
11:15
Savona, left
11:25 =
11:38
Berjeggi, left
11:39 =
15
11:50
Noli, left
11:51 =
11:59
Varigotti, left
12:00 =
16
12:05
Finalemarina, left
12:10 =
12:14
Bergo ,left
12:15 =
17
12:20
Pietrligure, left
12:21 =
12:27
Lòno, left
12:30 =
18
12:45
Albenga, left
12:47 =
1:00
Alassio, left
1:03 =
19
1:16
Andora, left
1:17 =
1:28
Cervo, left
1:29 =
20
1:37
Onuglia, left
1:39 =
1:50
Porto Morizo, left
1:53 =
21
2:03
San Lorenzo, left
2:20 =
2:20
Taggia, left
2:30 =
22
2:32
San Remo, left
2:35 =
2:55
Bordighesa, left
2:59 =
Page 111
01
Then at
3:10 we arrived at
Vintmiglia (Ventimiglia). We got off the train here because
02
this is where
Italy ends and the French borders begin. There are customs here too.
03
So we took our things and went through customs. After the inspection we took them and went
04
to a French railway car that goes directly to
Paris, passing through
Marseille.
05
We found it more suitable that we go from here directly to
Marseille and not stop
06
in
Nice. So we boarded the train. Here the
07
time is different and one hour less than in
Italy. So we set back
08
our watches to an hour less and the train departed with us from
Vintmiglia
09
at
3:05 French time.
10
3:17
Mentone, left
3:19 =
here, I have two people with whom I correspond.
11
3:58
Mont Carlo, left
4:02 =
4:06
Monaco, left
4:07 =
12
4:23
Beaulieu,left
4:25 =
4:29
Villefranche, left
4:30 =
13
4:34
Nice Niqueur, left
4:35 =
4:37
Nice
.
14
Since there is an eating place here we stopped for a long time and we bought dinner
15
to eat in the carriage. At
5:03 the train left.
16
5:25
Antibes, left
5:28/
5:45
Cannes, left
5:50 =
17
This extremely beautiful area is well known all over the world. It lays on the seaside
18
surrounded by many trees and houses. Even kings come
19
here to enjoy the fresh air, and especially to
Nice because of its very fine weather.
20
6:33
St. Raphail,left
6:37 =
6:42
Fréjus,left
6:44 =
21
7:12
Les Arcs, left
7:38 =
8:55
Hyres, left
8:57 =
22
9:07
Toulon, left
9:22 =
11:49
Marseille.
Page 112
01
02
Coming and Going
03
Our arrival by train at this pleasant town was at
11:47 after sunset.
04
We got off the train and hired a carriage straight away. Then we rode among streets lined
05
Marseille
with excellent buildings. All the going and coming in the markets had somewhat
06
lessened as
midnight neared. Then we came to the hotel where
07
we had written to have our friend here,
Nassoury Sayegh, to make arrangements for us. We knocked at the door
08
and the hotel owner opened it and admitted us. He immediately gave us rooms. The
09
name of this hotel is
Rubi at
No.103 Rue Paradis. After we entered
10
and put things in order we went to sleep. It was
12:00.
11
June 25
I got up in the morning and the weather was fine but getting hot with a
12
westerly wind. After we dressed, at
9:30 I went with my father to look
13
Marseille
for
Monsieur Nassoury Sayegh. We went to
29 rue St. Jacques
14
for we knew from earlier that he is there. Then we knocked and they told us that
15
he is at the office and that this place is only where he lives, but he works at
27 rue
16
des Princes. So we went there and found him. We were pleased to see him and he us. I had not
17
met him before. He gave us several letters addressed to me from
Baghdad and the homeland. From the
Baghdad
18
letters I learned of the death of
Monsieur Vasilaki, thanks to
Yaqoub Shamani
19
and of other things beside, but we have not heard anything from our family
20
since
Beirut. We left
Nassoury's office
21
at
10:00. He promised to come visit us in the afternoon. Today I looked
22
for my friend
Hanna Tabouni here but I did not know the way
Page 113
01
to his place on
23 Boulevard des Dames. In the afternoon
Nassoury came to see us
02
and near sunset we spent some time touring around with him.
Nassoury is alone
03
in town because his wife and son have gone out of town for a change of air to
04
Marseille
a place half an hour away. I found out from
05
Nassoury how to go and see
Hanna Tabouni at his place. I learned that
06
I would take the tram so I took the tram on which was written
07
Joliette and
Castillan right away, paying 10 centimes for it. After
08
15 minutes I arrived at the street. I got off and looked for the number.
09
I found it and went up to his place and knocked at the door. An elderly woman came
10
and told me that he was not there and had gone out. So I wrote him a card and told
11
him that we arrived yesterday evening, that I would love to see him, and he should come after
12
dinner to such and such hotel in such and such street and number. Then I took
13
the tram back to
rue St. Jacques. I arrived at
14
the hotel. I waited for
Hanna until he returned at
7:30. I was quite pleased
15
when I saw him and remembered our friends, family, and
Baghdad. I stayed with him
16
for about an hour and then we went out together at
9:00 and toured the streets. We went
17
to the
Cannebière, an area very distinguished and pleasant. People were
18
bustling about as abundant as worms. I said goodbye to him here and told him to come to me tomorrow morning.
19
He is employed at a commercial shipping company for 100 francs a month.
20
I returned to the hotel by myself on the tram at
10:30 .
21
Stuffy weather. After I woke up, the weather is quite warm, my friend
22
Hanna Tabouni came to see me. He stayed until just about
7:30 and promised us that he would return tomorrow
Page 114
01
so we could go and hear mass at church. Tomorrow is Sunday. At
02
9:30 we went to
Khowaja Nassoury's place. I settled an account I had with him
03
and took the remaining money, 242 francs. We returned to our residence
04
and afterwards, the three of us went to the bath which is not far from us and is called
Bains Paradis
Bains Paradis
.
05
Marseille
We bathed and paid 3 francs. Yesterday
Hanna told me that
06
Razouk Rafi, our friend in
Baghdad, had come to
Marseille on the ship
Turkistan
Turkistan: [ship]
07
4 days ago and he promised to send him to see me in the afternoon. At the hotel
08
we found the trunk that we had shipped from
Baghdad before coming
09
here. It contains some provisions like dates and arak and other things. After breakfast
10
we opened it and I found my book of stamps too, that is to say, the album I shipped
11
here. Then in the afternoon
Razouk Rafi arrived and I was extremely happy to see him.
12
He had recently arrived from
Basrah on the ship Turkistan, which docked 5 days ago
13
and will continue on to
London. So I took
Razouk Rafi and we walked the passages and environs of
14
the lovely
Marseille.
Marseille truly delighted me very much. It is the most recent town I
15
have found so pleasant and it has a very highly regarded port. At sunset
16
we returned and I found
Monsieur Sayegh at our hotel. He proposed that tomorrow, Sunday, we will go
17
and have breakfast at his place. He is not in town having gone to spend the summer in the country, that is
18
in
Montredon. He gave us the address of his house. After
19
dinner we went out to the area around
Cannebière
Cannebière
. We were astonished to see
20
so many people and such liveliness in the street. This is the best of all the streets one finds
21
June 26
in these districts. We returned an hour later to
22
our hotel.
Page 115
01
June 27
I got up early in the morning in order to wait for
Hanna Tabouni and
Razouk
02
so we could go hear mass in an excellent church on the mountain. Its name is
03
Marseille
Notre Dame de la Garde
Notre Dame de la Garde
. The weather is quite sultry and about to become hot and there is no wind.
04
Then at
7:15 they arrived and a half hour later we went to a place
05
where we could go up the mountain. There is an
Assensessenur here in which they go up.
06
We all took seats and paid 40 centimes for each person. We ascended in this
07
fine machine which consists of a car moving along the wall to the top
08
of the mountain. When we reached the top the car drew level with the walkway and we got out.
09
The weather was very hot. First we came to a spot below
10
Our Lady of the Garde Notre Dame de la Garde
the church where there was a place with some pictures and holy relics. On the left there was
11
a statue of
Jesus dying. Afterwards we climbed up to the church. The
12
mass was just beginning and so we listened. The church is not very big
13
but it is lofty and has a very large statue on top of the dome. They say
14
that in the crown people enter and the eyes of the statue are binoculars
15
that look from a distance on the ships coming in and those in danger because
16
the church is on the sea. All
Marseille is visible below and the view
17
is extremely beautiful. There were many people on top, about 400 or 500. Some of them brought their breakfast with them
18
to eat it there. After we looked at everything we went down on the pathway and not
19
by the descending car. We were truly quite tired because the descent is difficult from such
20
a height. We reached the bottom and walked back to the hotel amid lovely trees.
21
This was on the
Boulevard N. Dame. We returned to our lodgings
22
at
10:30 and waited a half an hour. Then we went to the
Rue de Rome
Page 116
01
to take the
Omnibus to
Nassoury's place. We took the bus
02
to
Montredon where
Nassoury is. We arrived after half an
03
hour and paid 35 centimes each.
Nassoury greeted us at the door of his house
04
and we entered his small but pleasantly situated house by the sea
05
with a very fresh breeze. We also saw his wife and son and at noon broke our fast.
06
Marseille
At
3:00 we returned by the omnibus to the hotel.
Nassoury's wife is very quiet
07
and sensible and about 35 years old. At the door of the hotel we saw
Hanna and
Razouk
08
waiting for us in order to go to the animal garden, or
09
the
Jardin Zoologique
Jardin Zoologique
. So we went to the
Rue Cannebière and took the
10
Tramway to
Longchamps. We arrived and found
11
this road was very pleasant with trees on both sides. We reached the zoological
12
garden and before everything else went into the picture gallery which is also
13
nice. We then climbed to a high place among flowers and greenery
14
Marseille
before we went down to the garden which was full of people.
15
Music was playing in the middle and because today is Sunday all those who
16
enter do so for free. We looked around at the different animals. We saw
17
various kinds of birds, ducks, geese, and camels, and different kinds of mountain sheep, and
18
white, black and grizzly bears, and zebras, elephants, lions and monkeys
19
and other things that are certainly worth seeing. We continued to wander around for about two hours
20
and at sunset took a carriage and returned to our place.
21
June 28
The morning is pleasant with a westerly wind. After we finished
22
getting dressed, that is at
9:00,
Monsieur Tiers arrived. He is
Nassoury's broker, who
Page 117
01
works at his office, a man of about 40 years. He had agreed to take us around
02
the shops to buy a number of things. So we went with him to the largest shops
03
Marseille
and bought some clothes and other necessities. We returned in the afternoon to our place.
04
At
3:30 I went to
Nassoury's and wrote him a bill of exchange from my mother to
Baghdad
05
in the amount of 1,000 francs. He said that in half an hour he would come and bring it with him. Then I went
06
out to look around the shops for silk yarn for knitting to send to
07
Rosa my maternal uncle's daughter. I found in one shop and bought a large quantity, some
08
200 grams. They made it into two parcels for me to send by post and I took them to
09
the
Central post office, or the main post office. All the clerks
10
are young 18 to 20 year old girls. I asked of them to post the parcels
11
for me but they refused saying the parcels were too large. They said it would better if I made them into
12
three parcels. So I was obliged to return to the shop to ask them to divide the two parcels into three for me
13
and this they did. I returned to our residence and found that
Nassoury had come and taken my parents
14
to tour around. I tried to follow but did not find them. I passed one of the booksellers
15
and bought two books, one about teaching dancing and the other poetry. I had them made
16
into one parcel in order to send them by post tomorrow, one to
Johnny Pahlawan and the other
17
to
Nassoury Bahoshy. I returned at sunset to our residence.
18
June 29
I got up in the morning and the weather was somewhat hot. At
9:00
19
Monsieur Tiers came again to get us. We went to someone who prints visiting
20
cards and asked for some hundreds. Then we continued to a large department store
21
called the
Magasin Général. Here they sell everything that a person
22
desires of clothes, accessories and other things that boggle the mind. We bought
Page 118
01
many things and returned to our lodgings before noon. We then began to arrange the items
02
to send to
Baghdad. At
2:30
Hanna Tabouni came to see me
03
Marseille
and we left to tour the markets. We came to a place where they show
04
moving pictures. They call this the
Cinamétographe (Ct[`e]nematograph) and admission is 50
05
centimes. It is truly a wondrous and amazing thing that a person can see
06
people walking and talking as if completely natural. Half an hour later
07
we left and I returned to our lodging. I found
Nassoury at our place and after he left we took
08
mother and went out a second time and likewise bought few things. We returned
09
at sunset.
Nassoury invited us to break our fast at his place at noon tomorrow and
10
very much insisted that we come. So we accepted.
11
June 30
The morning is unpleasant. The weather is extremely stuffy with clouds and it is very hot.
12
After we awoke we put our things in the trunks
13
and arranged everything because we will have to travel the day after tomorrow.
14
We stayed here a long time. At
11:00
Nassoury brought
15
Marseille
letters from
Baghdad. I mean from my paternal uncle
Henry and
Johnny and from my maternal uncle
Antone.
16
We were very pleased for news from our homeland. They wrote that they are all in good health.
17
Marseille
The heat where they are is very strong. The
Syriac Archbishop
Syriac Archbishop: [in Mosul]
had traveled to
Mosul
18
where he would oversee his mission. Likewise
Father Yousif Jarji had gone too and other
19
things beside. After we read the letters we went with
Nassoury to the
20
train station to go to
Montredon, where
Nassoury stays. The weather
21
was extremely unsettling with a strong, dry wind, and the sand blinded us until
22
we arrived. His wife greeted us with a hearty welcome and after breakfast
Page 119
01
his mother-in-law arrived too. At
3:00 we said our goodbyes and returned to town.
02
When we returned to our lodgings we found that our work was not yet finished. So we will leave the day after
03
tomorrow. After dinner we went to the
Cannebière district and returned after an hour.
20
حزيران ١
صباح اعتيادي مع هواء قليل قمت
ساعه -,٦
21
و نمت طول الليل كثير مليح .
ساعه
10
١١
دقوا جرص الفطور و رحنا اكلنا في الصالون على ميز منفرد
11
المركب لم يزل يلعب و مزعجنا كثير و انا ما بقى لي خلق و ضعفت
12
و جيت في بالي سفر البر كيف هو كثير احسن من البحر . المركب
13
كثير كبير ولكن خفيف و ما به الاّ قليل حمل يشيل ٣٦٠٠ تن
14
و هو رفيع و طويل جداً به مقدار ١٠٠ قماره كثير حلو مرتبين
15
بهم ضواء الكهرباء و ناقوس ايضاً كهرباء و غير اشياء .
16
هنا تصادقت مع واحد من اهل
امريكا
و اصله من
بيروت
17
لكن صار له مده من هاجر
بيروت
و اسمه
George Saba
18
و مسكنه في
نيويورك
رجل لطيف كثير و كان ساكن
19
معنا في الهوتيل لكن ما احد تجاسر يحكي مع الاخر غير الآن
20
كثير اضجرنا من تقلب المركب اخيراً
ساعه ٦
صاح و مشي من
يافا
21
هدا مطرح الملعون لكن قابلنا هواء عالي و بدى يلعب
22
كثير ازود .
ساعه ٧
دق جرص العشاء حالاً رحت اكلت
23
بسرعه و معدتي مخربطه و اسرعت لانام .
Page 074
01
حزيران ٢
صباح لطيف مع هواء غربي قمت
ساعه ٥
و لكن ابد ما
02
نمت هده الليله لأن كيفي كان مخربط من البحر . سمعت بأن المركب
03
تقل مشيه فحالاً اعرفت باننا واصلين
پورت سعيد
فاطلعت رأسي
04
من الشباك و شفت البندر بان لنا من بعد نصف ساعه و المركب به مثل
05
الدود فاسرعت بتبديل هدومي و طلعت فوق السطح فدخل المركب بالمينه و كانت
06
ساعه٥,٢٠
فهنا شفت جملة مراكب كبار واحد بعد الآخر فبعدما بطل حركته
07
المركب استكرينا بلم من ابلام
Cook
Cook: A reference to Thomas Cook and Sons, an international travel company that started as a rail travel company in Britain, it expanded to give tours in Egypt by 1869. By the time Alexander had arrived in Cairo, the company offered worldwide tours and transit options within and beyond the Middle East. In addition to providing rail options and a fleet of luxury steamers within Egypt. The company also offered travel options to many other locations around the world.
ووضعنا الاغراض و طلعنا على الساحل
08
الى الكمرك فهنا فتشونا ادا يوجد معنا ادنى شي غير قابل دخوله فما لقوا شيء.
09
فاعتمدنا بأن نزور صديقنا
المسيو جوزيف خوري
Joseph Khoury: Formerly engaged to Josephine, the daughter of Alexander Richard Svoboda's older half sister. The two never married because Josephine passed away before the marriage.
الدي كان قبل ١٠ سنين
10
في
بغداد
ترجمان
قنصل الافرنساوي
و الدي خطب ابنة
عمتي مدولة
جوزيفين
Josephine: The daughter of Medula Sayegh Tessy. Medula was Alexander Richard Svoboda's half sister from this mother's (Eliza Marine) first marriage.
التي
11
توفت قبل زواجها فسألنا عن بيته فارونا اياه فرسلنا الكارت متخوفين
12
لئلا يكون هدا غير
خوري
فاروا لنا بالطلوع فأجت والدته و ادا هي بعينها
13
و ثم هو جاء و قابلنا بكل فرح و قبلنا و تعجبنا حقيقة كيف الدهر اجابنا بعد هكدا
14
مده لنراه . فكان فكرنا بأن نروح من هنا رأساً الى
القاهرة
اعني في الاترين الذي
15
يمشي
ساعه ٩
لكن كثير حب
مسيو خوري
بأن نبقى النهار هنا فرضينا بذلك .
16
طلعت لادور في
پورت سعيد
فشفتها بلد حلوه كثير و نضيفه و اسواقها و عماراتها
17
پورت سعيد Port Sa'id
مثل
اوربا
تكميل اعني جميع البيوت ٥/٤ قوط و يوجد بيت كبير من حديد ٩ قوط
18
و هدا قبال بيت
مسيو خوري
و الصدق اقول ان ترتيبها احسن من
19
بيروت
لكن صغيره و للغاية غاليه الادمي ما يقدر يعيش بها اقل من ١٥ فرنك
20
يومياً جميع المخازن و الدكاكين على افرنكه و تقريباً جميع اهل البلد يلبسون
21
على افرنكه و البوليس المصري يدورون بين كل عقد لابسين كثير نضيف و مفتشين
22
على الذي يعمل قوي . صحتي الى الآن كثير مخبوطه و رأسي دائخ
23
و ما عندي قابله لشيء. بعد الظهر فطرنا عند
مسيو خوري
Page 075
01
و طلبنا منه ليرينا مكان في بعض الهوتيلات لنقضي فيه ليلتنا فاخدنا و اتينا على
02
هوتيل و اجرنا اوضتين فطلبوا مننا ١٥ فرنك الى العشاء و النوم . هنا البايسكل
03
كثير و يوجد كثره من الدين يركبوه بالدروب من نساء و رجال .
04
بعد العشاء زارنا
المسيو خوري
و قعد مقدار ساعتين .
05
حزيران ٣
اليوم صبحت قليل حارة مع هواء غربي و الوقت
06
هنا كثير تغير عن
الشام
و
بيروت
و صار مثل ايام
بغداد
في هدا الشهر
07
اعني يابس و حار . شربنا الجاي
ساعه -,٧
و لمينا حوايجنا و دهبنا
08
لعند
مسيو خوري
لكي نودعهم و نروح الى سكة الحديد لنركب
09
بها الى
القاهره
فقعدنا لحد
ساعه -,٨
و بعده سلمنا على والدته و هو
10
و
اسماعيليه
Suez
+
Ismaїlia
رحب يرافقنا
للمحطة
فجينا و اخدنا لنا مكان و شفنا هدا الترين
11
كثير الطف من الدي يروح من
الشام
الى
بيروت
وبالنصيب لقينا
12
لنا Wagon فارخه لأجلنا فقط فكثير فرحنا عليه
فساعه ٩
13
تكميل صاح بالصافوره و الجرص دق للمشي فتوادعنا مع
مسيو يوسف
14
خوري و الترين ترك
پورت سعيد
و اخد جرف
الكنال السويس
15
Canal de Suez
و طول الوقت يمشي على حافتَيْهِ
ساعه ٩,٣٥
16
وقف و لحد هنا يوجد ١٤ كيلومتر من
پورت سعيد
ساعه ٩,٤٥
فاتنا مركب
17
بالكنال اسمه
عبد القادر
Abdul Qader: The name of a ship.
و معه حجاج و الدي أتي من كل بد من
البصرة
18
و رائح الى
الحج
ساعه ١٠
و قفنا و مشينا بعد 3 دقائق
١٠,٥٠
كنطره
19
محطه مشينا
١١
الفردان
١١,٤٥
مشينا
١١,٤٧
وصلنا
اسماعيليه
20
Suez السويس و اسماعيليه
ساعه ١٢,١٥
و هنا نزلنا من الاترين و التزمنا ننتظر الدي جاي من
21
السويس
ليأخدنا الى
القاهره
فساعه ١,١٠
اتى و بدلنا مطرحنا به
22
و اخدنا ايضاً Wagon لكن غير جنس من الاولى و اعتق
23
اسماعيليه
هي بلد صغيره و معمره
ساعه ١,٢٣
مشينا منها
24
راجعين الى
السويس
حتى الاترين يأخد درب
القاهره
. فهدا
Page 076
01
كان يمشي سريع و كثير اخف من الدي جينا به الى
اسماعيليه
.
ساعه
02
١,٥٥
مَحَسَّنَه
مشينا
١,٥٨
.
قصاصين
٢,٨
مشينا
٢,١٠
تل الكبير
03
٢,٢٥
مشينا
٢,٣٠
ابو حمد
٢,٤٥
مشينا
٢,٤٨
ابو احضر
٣
مشينا
٣,١
04
هنا يوجد
مقبرة كبيره
Cemetary: In Abu Ahdhar, a cemetary commemorating the soldiers who died int he 1882 Battle of Tel el-Kebir in Egypt.
مهندسة فيها
قبور عسكر الانكليز
و المصر
05
الدين قتلوا في معاركة
الانكليز
مع
المصر
Battle of Tel el-Kebir: An important battle in 1882 between the British military and the Egyptian army led by Ahmed Urabi near Tel el-Kebir, about 110 km northeast of Cairo. The British succeeded in maintaining control of the Suez Canal and other regional interests.
و اخوانها .
زقازيق
06
الى القاهره
٣.١٠
هده بلد كبيره جداً و مثل
بغداد
بالكبر هنا كثير عبريه اتوا
07
و حتى دخلو ٧ في الـ Wagon الذي مأخديه و كانوا كثير ما عندهم ادب
08
و يتمازحون على ظنهم نحن افرنج . الاراضي هنا كثير مخصبه و بها كثير
09
من النخل و الزرع مثل الشعير الحنطه الثمن القطن و غير اشيا و هنا
10
اول مره شفت من
بغداد
الى هدا المكان حيوان الجاموس . لكن
11
جميع الاراضي من
پورت سعيد
الى هنا كثير مرمله و بها عج و الاترين
12
املأ تراب . سكة الحديد كثير مليح كانت تمشي هنا و خفيف
13
و كنت اعد كل ١٥ عامود التلغراف نفوته في دقيقه واحده مشينا من
14
زقازيق
ساعه ٣,٢٥
و معنا كثير عبريه منها .
زنكالون
٣,٣٥
مشينا
٣,٣٦
15
جوديده
٣,٤٨
مشينا
٣,٥٠
.
مينة القمح
٣,٥٥
مشينا
٤
.
ميت
16
يزيد
٤,٥
مشينا
٤,٧
.
ساعه ٤,١٥
و قف الترين و قالوا لازم
17
نتحول الى غير واحد لأن الدرب هنا عمال يدوزوه و ما تقدر تفوت السكة
18
راساً فاختصبنا ان ننقل اغراضنا و نركض الى سكة الثانية و نحن مجرجرين
19
يميناً و شمالاً بالركاب اخيراً طلعنا بكل عداب الى الترين الأخر و قعدنا في
20
محل يمسك ٨ اوادم و اختصبنا ان ننتظر تبديل الحمل من الأحد
21
الى الأخر اخيراً
ساعه ٥,١٠
مشي من هدا المحل وصلنا
شبلنا
22
٥,٢٠ مشينا
٥,٢٨
بنحا
٥,٤٥
مشينا
٦
الترين للغاية رائح خفيف
23
و اول مره مشي بنا هكدا سريع و كان يعمل كل ٢١ عمود في دقيقة
24
فبعد ممشا ١٥ دقيقة بان لنا
القاهره
فنزل حركته و بدي
Page 077
01
يمشي اتقل .
02
03
04
ساعه ٦,٣٥
وصلنا
محطة القاهره
و شفنا البنيانات الشاهقة
05
و العمارات اللطيفة التي ضيعت
بيروت
و
الشام
06
اصحاب الهوتيلات مثل الدود فاستخيرنا واحد اي
هوتيل ميتروبول
فهنا التموا علينا
07
القاهره
Cairo
Hotel Metropole
و اجرنا عربه و سقنا ما بين الاسواق
08
اللطيفه و الدروب الجميله التي تفتح القلب فزلنا ماشيين و الناس
09
تنفش بالدروب و العربات مثل السمك و البوليس بالدروب
10
لابسين نضيف و كذلك عسكر الانكليزي فمالنا الوقت
11
الآن لننظر كل شي فجينا على باب الهوتيل و تعاملنا معه على ليره
12
انكليزيه يومياً لثلاثتنا و دخلنا واجرنا اوضتين . هنا كل شي
13
غالي نار و في
پورت سعيد
كثير ازود حتى الحمال ما يشيل غرض
14
الى بعد ٣ دقائق فقط مندون فرنك و كدا الجميع . في الهوتيل لقينا
15
مدام فره
مع ابنها
فيكتور
اي
ريجينه
بنت
الخواجه حبيب شيحا
Khwaja Habib Shiha: The brother of Francis Shiha; he fathered a girl named Regina.
16
و طلعنا عندها و فرحت كثير لما شافتنا و ما كانت تصدق هل صحيح
17
نحن اتينا و تعجبت كثير لما شافتني و سألتنا على
بغداد
و على الشقيقة
18
تاكوهي
و غير اشياء . تعشينا
ساعه ٨
و طلعنا الى اوضتنا لننام
19
حزيران ٤
لاننا كنا حقيقة كثير هلكانين من التعب و من السفر .
20
قمت صباحاً
ساعه -,٦
و طول الليل الوقت كان
21
حار و شبابيك الاوضة مفتوحه هده الليله نمت كثير مليح
22
لاني كنت تعبان كثير . بعد ما شربنا الجاي رحت مع
23
الوالد لندور في الاسواق و لكن اي اسواق مثل صرايات
Page 078
01
و كل المخازن متنوره بالاعلانات الدهبية و الزجاج على الباب الكبير
02
و العقود مثل عروسة المهندسة فاول جينا نروح لعند
مسرس
03
Thos. Cook + Son
لنأخد منه تداكر من الآن الى
برنديزي
04
و
ناپولي
و ايضاً تداكر الى سكة الحديد من هنا الى
اسكندرية
05
فجينا على الاوفيس و كانه باب ولاية و تلك العمارات التي تدهش
06
و البيت كانه قلعه فدخلنا و طلبنا منه دلك فحالاً ارانا خارتت
07
المركب الدي سياسفر من
الاسكندريه
في ١١ من هدا الشهر الى
برنديزي
08
و اسمه
Sutleg
و يشيل تقريب ٥٠٠٠ تن و كبير الى اخر
09
درجه فاعطانا ٣ تداكر الى ثاني درجه الى
Brindisi
في ١٦ ليره
10
انكليزيه و ربع و من
Brindisi
الى
Napoli
بالسكة الحديد ٦ ليرات
11
تقريبا و من هنا الى
اسكندريه
ليره و نصف هده الجميع اعني الى ثلاثتنا
12
و قال ادا نحب نرجع بعد ساعه نشوف التداكر حاضره فخرجنا من
13
هنا و رحنا الى البنك اي
Banque Impl. Ottomane
لنقبض دراهم
14
اي ستون ليره و هدا البنك ايضاً كبير و فاخر بعماراته و به
15
جملة كتاب فاعطونا الدراهم و خرجنا راجعين الى محل
Cook
16
فشفنا التداكر جميعها حاضره فاخدنانها و رحنا الى
قنصلاتو
17
النمسى
حتى نسأل ادا يوجد كتاب باسمنا من
بغداد
فاعطينا
18
الكارتت و دوروا و ما لقوا شيء ابداً فلزم نرجع الى الهوتيل لأن
19
صارت
ساعه -,١١
فبعد ما رجعنا لقيت عند
ريجينه
مسيو
20
اوكست تونيتي
الدي قد نسيته جداً و لما طلع من
بغداد
كان
21
عمري مقدار ٩ سنين و هو ايضاً ما عرفني ففرحنا كثير
22
لما شفنا يوجد واحد الدي يقدر يساعدنا هنا فتواعدنا معه بأن
23
يجي
بعد الظهر اعني ساعه ٤
لنروح معه ندور في البلد و من الحكي
24
قال لنا بأن
ايفي
ابنة
عمي المرحوم اسكندر
Effie: Effie Svoboda was the daughter of Alexander Sandor Svoboda and wife of Ernest Boucherot. Born in Baghdad in 1852, she left the city in 1860, eventually settling in Cairo. She gave birth to many children, including a girl named Evelyn and sons Paul Louis and Alphonse.
موجودة هنا خارج
Page 079
01
البلد و زوجه بالبلد عنده مخزن
Optician
. بعد الفطور حضرت
02
كم كتاب الى
بغداد
و
البصرة
و
الساعه ٤
اتى
مسيو اوكست
و اخدنا الى
03
مسيو
Boucherot
زوج
ايفي
و هدا ما كان عنده خبر بشي
04
ابداً و
والدي
دخل عليه غفلتاً و هدا المسكين هكدا تعجب حتى
05
صاح بصوت عالي و تعانق معه و صار مثل ليس مصدق كثير
06
اقاهره الازبكيه Cairo el Izbakieh
فرح بان عليه بمشاهدتنا و هو رجل لطيف كثير و عنده مخزن يبيع
07
به مثل درابين آلات هندسة و غير اشياء فبعد نصف ساعه خرجنا
08
من عنده و قال بأن غداً
ايفي
تجي الى البلد و سيجيبها عندنا في الهوتيل
09
و عزمنا يوم الأحد ان نروح نقضي النهار معه بخارج البلد . فمن هنا دخلنا
10
في بستان التي هي بنصف الولاية و تسمى
الازبكيه
al-Azbeqiyya: To be completed.
لكن
11
يا لها من بستان لطيفه حلوه بها من جميع اجناس اشجار التي في
12
الدنيا و التي اشتروها بدراهم باهضة حتى يجيبوها الى هنا و تحت
13
العروق يوجد كراسي و تخوت بكثره و الناس بها تروح و تجي
14
و في الوسط يوجد حوض كبير جداً اعني طوله ٢٠٠ متر و به الوز
15
لكن
غير اجناس وز
و ما شفنا قبلاً منه له رقبة طويله و منقار
16
عليه وصله سوداء و كبار جداً و بجانب الحوض يوجد دائره عاليه
17
و المسيقه تدق بها اغاني افرنجيه و لطيفه و الحاصل هدا المكان
18
هو احسن من جميع بساتين الدين شفناهم و قبال هده الجنينة
19
في العقد يوجد تمثال كبير
ابراهيم باشا
راكب على حصانه و الجميع
20
من برنج فبقينا في البستان الى
ساعه -,٧
و بعده رجعنا و الدروب
21
تنفش بها الناس الافرنج مع مداماتهم مثل الدود و الف قاط ازود
22
من الصباح لأن الآن الجميع خلصوا شغلهم و الدروب مصطبحه
23
بنور الكهرباي و الكاز الحقيقي و البترول و الكواري تروح
24
و تجي و البايسكلات كدلك و هنا شفنا اول مرة الـ
Page 080
01
tramway الدي يمشي بالالكتريك و يسموه
Automobile
02
هدا شيء حقيقة يعجب يمشي من داته لا خيل تجره و لا
03
نار به . رجعنا الى الهوتيل و توادعنا مع
اوكست
و تواعدنا بأن
04
غداً يجي علينا لنروح نشوف غير اماكن .
05
حزيران ٥
قمت صباح و الوقت كان حار جداً و هده الليله كانت
06
كثير وخمه بعد ما غسلت و بدلت اجي علينا
مسيو اوكست
07
و اعتمدنا نروح نزور جامع قيل موصوف بعماراته و يسموه
جامع
08
المقطم
فطلعنا من الهوتيل و ركبنا في
الـ
Tramway Electric
09
و رحنا الى خارج البلد لكي نطلع نشوف هدا الجامع الدي هو
10
معمر على جبل و عالي فوصلنا هناك و اشجار البرهامه بالدروب
11
كثيره و طلعنا رويداً رويداً و درنا حول هدا الجامع الكبير جداً
12
جامع المقطم
و مبني كشغل الجبابره و من هنا نشوف جميع البلد تحتنا
13
و كدلك الاهرام تبان لنا من هنا فبعده ردنا ندخل بداخل
14
الجامع اي بالحضره فلزم علينا ان نضع بوابيج من عندهم
15
و ندخل بها فدخلنا الى الحضره و تعجبنا على كبرها و على ما بها من
16
شغل الرفيع المرمري فعرضها ٨٠ خطوه و طولها باضعاف
17
دلك و لها من فوق ٤ قبات الواحده اعلى من الاخره و الجميع
18
دائرهم طرمات و بالوسط معلق طريه التي معلقه من
19
كبرها بزنجيل المركب الدي يجرون به الانكر و يقدرون يشعلون
20
بهده الطرية ١٠٠٠ قنديل فدائرها يمكن ١٠ مترات فخرجنا
21
من هنا و اعطينا كم غرش بخشيش و ثم جينا على مكان عميق
22
جداً و يسموه
جب يوسف
The Well of Joseph: According to Burckhardt (1812), the Well of Joseph (Ar. Jubb Yousif) was on the road between Damascus and Akka. Alexander must have visited a second well, known by the same name, a short distance from Cairo.

فساعه ٤
اخدناها و طلعنا الى السوق لمشتري كم
19
غرض و دخلنا دكان زوجها و شفنا عنده ابنها الصغير و اسمه
20
پول
و عمره ١٠ سنوات ابنتها الكبيره قد زوجتها و عندها
21
ولد فبقينا نمشي بعد خروجنا من المخزن الى ان وصلنا
محطة
سكة
22
الحديد فتوادعنا معها و حققت علينا بأن بكره نروح لعندهم نقضي
23
النهار في مكان اسمه
مطريه
al-Matariyah: A small historical site located on the outskirts of Cairo of seeming importance to Christians. The site is home to a prominent obelisk, an ancient tree named after the Virgin Mary, and a Fresco of the Holy Family located in a local chapel(date unknown), and a small body of water colloquially called the “Jesus Well.”
في خارج البلد ببعد نصف ساعه
24
مشي و السكة الحديد ١٠ دقائق . فرجعنا الى الهوتيل
الغروب
.
Page 082
01
حزيران ٦
صباح وخم و حار قمت
ساعه -,٦
و بدلت هدومي
02
و بما اليوم هو يوم الأحد اعتمدنا البارح مع
مسيو اوكست
03
بأن يجي علينا
ساعه ٨
لنروح معه الى كنيسة لنسمع فيها القداس
04
و من هناك نروح الى المحطة لنروح لعند
ايفي
.  فرحنا مع
اوكست
06
الى محله و دخلنا و صعدنا الى ثالث قاط فهناك شفناه و فرح بنا
07
و كدلك اتت امرأته الدي هي كثير جاهله و عمرها يمكن
08
٢٢ سنه و له ابنين صغار بعمر سنتين و ادون فخرجنا من
09
عنده بعد ساعه و عزمنا على العشى عنده غداً و قبلنا ذلك . فقصدنا
10
ان نروح نتفرج على احسن مكان
القاهره
و هي
الكيزة
اعني
11
دائره كبيره في داك جانب
نهر النيل
فكرينا عربه في ٣ فرنكات
12
كيزه Guizeh
و سقنا مع
اوكست
بين شوارع عدله و مزروعه على الصوبين
13
بالبرهامه و الناس في العربات و على الخيل و على البايسكل مثل الدود
14
تنفش هنا فجينا على جسر ن
هر النيل
الدي هو من حديد و عالي
15
مقدار ٥٠ متر من الشط و في دخوله يوجد رأسين الدخله
16
سبعين مجسمين من پولاد كبار جداً و لهم منظر حقيقة
17
يخوف فعبرنا الجسر على
النيل
و جينا على
الكيزه
مكان غاية
18
لطيف و هو مثل مدربان و على الصفين شجرات البرهامه
19
تعمل في للنصف و العربات مثل الدود على صفين صف للرواح
20
و الاخر للرجوع و الپوليس بينهم ينتظرون ادنى شي غير
21
لائق و هنا يوجد هوتيل افخر الموجود في
القاهره
و اسمه
22
Gazereh Palace Hotel
Gazereh Palace Hotel: This was a luxury hotel located in central Zamalek. Jointly managed by the French Gezirah Land Company and the Egyptian Hotels Company, the building was converted to a hotel during the late 19th century (only a few years before Alexander’s visit); it had previously been a palace of Khedive Ismail. The hotel was famed for its luxury, and it was a popular location with European tourists.
 فرجعنا من هدا
04
المكان الدي ايضاً يعملوه في الشتاء ميدان لشرط الخيل
ساعه
05
-,٧
.
06
حزيران ٧
قمت
ساعه -,٦
صباح و الوقت كان وخم كدلك
07
و يبان هده اشد ايام الحر هنا فبعد ما شربنا الجاي اجاء علينا
مسيو
08
اوكست
Yousif Saryos: A resident of Alexandria who had two children and two sisters, Mariam and Touza, who had recently lost her husband.
و كرينا عربه و رحنا نشوف خوات
يوسف سريوس
اي
09
مريم
و
توزه
فمكانهم من هنا بعيد بمقدار نصف ساعه في مرورنا دخلنا
10
عند خياطه التي عمال تخيط كوت للوالدة و هنا شفت شيء الدي يستحق
11
دكره و عجيب و نادر . هده الخياطه عندها ابن عمره مقدار ٣٥ سنه
12
و انا شفته بعيني و هو من سن العشرين اعمي و لكنه معلم بدق
13
البيانو فهدا المسكين الله نور قلبه و بطول عميانهُ يعلم البيانو
14
لجملة ناس و ازود من دلك يعمل نوط اي نغمات و يكتبها في
15
دفاتر و يعلم بها الطالبين و هو اعمي الى آخر درجه فهدا شيء
16
الدي حيرني و الدي ما يصير مثله بعد . وصلنا عند بيت بنات
17
سريوس
و طلعنا عندهم و استقبلونا و لابسين السواد على اختهم و زوج
18
توزه
اسكندر نصور
فهنا اتى
الخوري بطرس
عابد الدي كان
19
قبل ٦ سنين مدير
مدرسة الكلدان
في
بغداد
و المسكين كثير
20
ضعفان و هو الآن هنا يباشر
كنيسة التي عمال تعملها
21
امرأة
انطوني
التي هي هنا ساكنه في حوش واحد مع
يوسف
22
سريوس
لكن قاط الاسفل فبعد ما طلعنا من عند
مريم
و
توزه
23
اجى معنا
الخوري بطرس
ليفرجنا على
الكنيسة
التي
Page 085
01
تخص امرأة
انطون عبد المسيح
فدخلنا بها و شفناها لطيفه و ليس
02
كثير كبيره و بعد ليس متممه و عمال يصبغونها لكن حلوه من داخلها
03
و تمسك مقدار ٥٠٠ نفس فقط و قد صرفت عليها الى الآن ٧٠٠٠ ليره
04
فرجعنا الى الهوتيل
ساعه ١٢
و فطرنا و بعده
ساعه ٥
اتى علينا
اوكست
05
و اخدنا و رحنا لعند
هيلانه
امرأةانطوني
لنعمل لها زياره فاستقبلتنا
06
في الديوان و هي طرشه و عجوز بمقدار ٦٥ سنه فكما نحن معتمدين
07
ان نتعشى عند
يوسف
فتوادعنا معها و طلعنا الى قاط الأعلى فهناك
08
قعدنا بالديوان و بعده اتوا
يوسف
و
امرأته
و
يوسف
كان يونسنا
09
على قدر اطاقته فاعتمدنا بعد العشى نروح العربه نشم الهوا في
10
دائر
القاهره
امرأةيوسف
جاهله و عمرها ٢٠ سنه و تدق البيانو كثير لطيف
11
و دقت لنا كم فصل و خصوصاً دقت بعض الحان التي كنت اسمعها في
12
بغداد
فتدكرت هنا الوطن و عجبني اكون به .
ساعه -,٩
قعدنا على
13
العشى و ميزه كان كثير مليح و
ساعه ١١
خلصنا و اخدنا عربيتين
14
و رحنا لطرف الجسر و يسموه هنا
كبري
Kopri district: Possibly a reference to the area around Gezira Bridge. Constructed in 1872, the bridge linked the East Nile and the island of Zamalek. The bridge has since been demolished, and today the Qasr-e-Nile bridge serves the purpose that the Gezira Bridge once served.
لكن يا للمنظر اللطيف
15
في الطرق على الجنبين الاشجار و ضواء الكهربائي و الكاز على
16
الصفين و خصوصاً براس الجسر شيء كثير لطيف و الظواء عامل
17
زي زريف و عدل
فساعه ١٢
رجعنا الى الهوتيل و توادعنا . مع
18
يوسف
و
امرأته
و اعتمدنا معهم بأن بكره نروح الى صراي الانتيكات اي
19
الـ Musée
Palace of Antiquities: Cairo’s Museum of Antiquities, which held most relics from Egypt’s ancient past. It was moved to Giza in 1891 following a flood that damaged the previous location. Soon after Alexander’s visit, the goods in the museum were moved once more.
. اليوم رسلت جملة مكاتيب
لبغداد
اعني
لجاني
20
كسبرخان
الى
نصوري
و
جميل
الى
روفائيل
و كدلك ارسلت الى
جاني
قوانين
21
مدرسة الكلية في
بيروت
التي اخدتهم من
الرئيس
.
22
حزيران ٨
قمت صباحاً و بدلت و الوقت كذلك
23
كثير وخم فبعد ما شربنا الجاي اي
ساعه ٨
اتوا لعندنا
الخواجات
24
اوكست
و
يوسف
ليأخدونا و نروح الى
المعرض الانتيكات المصريه
.
 و كتبهم و جواهرهم
20
و آلات محاربتهم و خرزهم و كتاباتهم على الخام ام على وراق الاشجار و غير
21
وغير دلك اشغال التي تحير العقل و تشوش دهن الانسان
22
و هدا الصراي يحوي على تقريب ٩٠ اوضه الجميع متروسه
23
من هده الاشغال التي تستحق الشوف و تفتح الابصار
24
على اشياء القديمه و هنا جميع هده الاغراض مغطات بصناديق
Page 087
01
من جام و بلور لتنمع اللمس و كدلك شفنا مراكبهم و ابلامهم و المجاديف
02
الى أخره و حقيقة بقينا الى
ساعه ١١
ندور و ما خلصنا و تعبنا الى اخر
03
درجه من الوقوف فنزلنا بعد ما شفنا كل شيء و ركبنا بالعربية و رجعنا
04
الى مطرحنا مفتكرين و مبهوتين على هده الفرجه اللطيفه . بعد الظهر
05
اتوا عندنا
الخواجا يوسف
و
امرأته
و الغروب رحنا شمينا الهواء في
06
جنينة الازبكيه.
07
حزيران ٩
اليوم قمت صباحاً اعني
ساعه ٥
لأننا معتمدين نروح نشوف
08
الاهرام
العجيبة . صباح لطيف و ليس كثير حار اجاء علينا
مسيو
09
اوكست
و
ساعه ٦,١٠
دقائق ركبنا في عربة و سقنا نحو الجسر
10
الاهرام Pyramides
لنعبر و نروح الى طريق الدي يوصلنا الى
الاهرام
فعبرنا و سرنا بين
11
اشجار البرهامه على الصفين و بين مدربانات طوال عدل
12
و الشمس تعطي في و نسيم الصباح كثير لطيف اخيراً وصلنا
ساعه
13
٧,٤٥
الى
الاهرام
التي هي حقيقة عجوبه من عجوبات الدنيا
14
و يوجد بجانب الاهرام هوتيل اسمه
Mena House
Mena House Hotel: A hotel near Cairo and the Giza Pyramids. The site was converted into a hotel after its 1885 acquisition by an English family. The hotel began to stay open year-round around 1890; this marked a shift from other hotels, which typically closed during the summer. The hotel was incredibly luxurious, as it included tennis courts, high-end chefs, and the first hotel swimming pool in Cairo.
لكن
15
للغاية لطيف و مزخرف فقبل وصولنا الى الاهرام اجتمعوا علينا
16
جملة اوادم ليكونوا لنا كدليل و كانوا يركضون على العربه و يتعاركوا
17
مع بعضهم و نحن نسحتهم و ما نريدهم و ما كان يطلع درب منهم
18
و حقيقة كثير عمال يضوجوا فقلنا لهم ما نريد احد ابداً و ما جازوا
19
و راحوا جابوا اباعرهم و دوابهم هده المره فخليناهم مثل الكلاب و رحنا
20
بجانب اول اهرام التي من بعد كانت تبان لنا شي صغير و هده
21
الاهرام هي مبنيه من حجار كبار مرمر مصفطه واحده على الاخره
22
شيء يستحق الفرجه و علو هده الاهرام كان ٤٧٠ فوت
23
و زعموا بأن ملوك الاقدمين لما كانوا يقعدوا على التخت
24
كانوا يعملون لهم قبور غميق بغمق ٤٠٠ فوت و فوقه يعملون
Page 088
01
هده الجبال الكبار اي الاهرام لأن كانوا يعتقدوا بأن ارواحهم
02
بعد موتهم ترجع بيوم الدينونه و تأخد اجسادهم و تصير حيه غير
03
مميته الى الابد و لازم الانسان قبال مماته يوصي بأن بعد موته
04
يرفعون جسده في مكان اضيق ما يكون حتى لا يقدر يشم الهوا
05
و الريح و لأجل ذلك ايضاً كانوا يحنطوهم فهدا صدق يمكن .
06
فبعد ما تفرجنا على اهرام الاول دهبنا نحو
الـ Sphinx
07
و يسموه هنا
ابو الهول
و تعجبنا على كبره و ضخامة شغله
08
فتفرجنا على قدر اطاقتنا لأن الحر كان قوي جداً و الارض
09
ليس سهلة المشي لانها مرمله و حارة و صاعدة و نازله .
10
فنزلنا و اخدنا العربيه و كانت
ساعه -,٩
و رجعنا من اين
11
ما اتينا فوصلنا الهوتيل
ساعه ١٠,٥٠
و اعطينا حق العربه 35 غرش
12
صاغ . بعد الفطور اتت عندنا
ايفي
و ابنها
الفونص
13
و بقوا لحد
ساعه ٦
و دهبوا من الهوتيل عاطين لنا قول بانهم يرجعون
14
بكره العصر يتوادعون معنا . الغروب اخدنا
اوكست
و رحنا الى
15
الازبكيه
سمعنا الموسيقه لأجل ساعه و رجعنا الى مطرحنا .
16
حزيران ١٠
قمت
ساعه ٧
و الصباح كان مثل البارحه و بعد
17
ما شربنا الجاي رحنا جميعاً الى
الحمام
التي تبعد من هنا بمقدار ١٠
18
دقائق لنستحم و اعطينا لكل نفر ٦ غروش صاغ و حقيقة
19
كثير عجبتني هده الحمام لانها على افرنكه و النساء و الرجال يقدرون
20
يروحون بها و جميعها مقسمه باوضات و احواض افرنجيه
21
فبعد ساعه رجعنا . و هدا هو اخر يوم نحن هنا في
القاهر
و بكره
22
سنأخد الشمين دفير الى
الاسكندريه
و اليوم ما عندنا
23
شيء نعمل . فطرنا و طلبنا من صاحب الهوتيل ان يقدم
24
لنا الحساب . و اني حقيقة للغاية حبيت
القاهره
Page 089
01
و منكدر على طلوعي منها لكن لا بد ما اشوف ما اشوف احسن منها . العصر اتى
02
علينا
مسيو اوكست
و اخدناه و رحنا ندور و نتوادع مع
مصر
03
و الغروب لما رجعنا شفنا عندنا ابنت
ايفي
و اسمها
Eveline
04
مع زوجها و ابنها و زوجها اسمه
Georges Kahil
و بالحقيقيه
05
اثنينهم جهال البنت عمرها يمكن ١٨ سنه و الزوج يمكن
06
٢٠ فقط. و كثير فرحنا لما شفناهم و هم ايضاً و بعد نصف ساعه راحوا
07
و توادعوا معنا و قالوا لنا بأن
ايفي
وصتهم ليسلموا علينا من طرف
08
ما كان عندها وقت لتدخل البلد .
09
10
11
12
حزيران ١١
قمت صباحاً
ساعه ٦
لأن لازم نحضر اغراضنا للمشي مع
13
الترين الدي يمشي
ساعه -,٩
فبعد ما شربنا الجاي لمينا جميع اسبابنا
14
و
ساعه ٨
اتانا
اوكست
و ايضاً
ريجينه مدام فره
نزلت من
15
فوق عندنا فبعد نصف ساعه كرينا عربياتين و توادعنا مع
16
ريجينه
و اعطينا حق الهوتيل الدي صار تقريب ٨ ليرات
17
انكليزيه و ركبنا بالعربات و سقنا الى
محطة
سكة
18
الحديد فحالاً عند وصولنا اخدنا لنا تداكر و اخدنا مكان في
19
ثاني درجة و هنا الصناديق يأخدون عليها نول و كدلك لما
20
جينا من
پورت سعيد
اخدوا على الصندوقين ١٠ فرنكات
21
فهنا اتانا
يوسف سريوس
و مدامته و اولاده و
خوري بطرس
22
لتوادعوا معنا
فساعه -,٩
صاح الترين و توادعنا مع الجميع
Page 090
01
و خصوصاً
اوكست
الدي كثير احتصر على فرقتنا و نحن كدلك لأن
02
مده قعودنا في
مصر
كان كل الوقت معنا و ما قصر بشي علينا .
03
فقد تركنا
مصر
و الترين طلع من الـ
Station
متقبل
04
نحو
الاسكندريه
وحقيقة اني كثير احتصرت على فراقنا
القاهره
05
اسكندرية مصر Alexandria
لانها بلد التي تستحق الدكر و الشوف و فاقت جميع اماكن
06
التي شفناها قبل .
ساعه -,٩
مشينا
ساعه ١٠,١٠
بنها
مشينا
١٠,١٥
07
١٠,٥٢
تنتا
١١,٥
مشينا
.
١١,١٥
كافر زايات
١١,١٦
مشينا .
08
١١,٥٥
دمنهور
١٢,٠
مشينا .
١٢.٤٠
سيدي كابر
١٢,٤٥
مشينا
09
ساعه واحده بعد الظهر
وصلنا
اسكندريه
. بما يوجد عندي هنا
10
صديق الدي اتكاتب معه من مدة ٣ سنين على مادة الاپوال
11
كتبت له كتاب من
القاهره
قبل كم يوم و قلت له باني وصلت
12
هنا و عن قريب سأشوفه فجاوبني بانه كثير فرحان و ينتظرني
13
في المحطة يوم وصولي و هنا لما وصل الاترين المحطة لقيت
14
هدا صاحبي و اسمه
S.E. Couddésu
و كثير فرح لما شافني فحالاً
15
كرينا عربة و اخدنا صناديقنا و افتكرنا قبل كل شي نروح نأخد
16
القمره في
مركب
الـ
Sutleg
Sutleg [Thomas and Cook ship]
من
مراكب
T. + C.
17
فسقنا بين شوارع
الاسكندريه
و انا متعجب من هدا البنيان
18
الدي كثير اعلا من
القاهره
فجينا الى المركب و اخدنا القمره و معنا
19
Couddésu
و بعد ما وضعنا صناديقنا رجعنا تكراراً بالعربة
20
لنتفرج على البلد احسن فدرنا في اسواقها و مكاناتها و شفتها
21
مثل
القاهره
تقريباً لكن ما بها اشجار بالدروب و بساتين
22
كبار ادروبها مطبقه من المرمر فرحنا الى الپوسطة لنسأل اذا
23
يوجد عندنا مكاتيب من
بغداد
فما شفنا شيء و تعجبنا من الاهل
24
كيف الى الآن ما كتبوا لنا شيء و اخر كتاب اخدناه في
Page 091
01
بيروت
و لنا زمان ما عندنا خبر عنهم ابداً .
فساعه ٣
رجعنا الى المركب
02
لأن
ساعه ٤
يمشي فاعطيت الى صديقي الپوال كم پول عجمي
03
و غير مقدار ٥٠ و توادع معي و طلع و اعطيته كتاب
انطوان
04
جوليتي
الدي كتبه الى عمته هنا مثل توصيه و طلبت منه ان يقول
05
مسيو Bavastro
et
Sakakini
بأن كثير محصور كون ما شفتهم
06
وجهياً.
ساعه ٤
تمام شلع المركب من
الـPort
الدي
07
به مقدار ١٠٠ مركب و من جملتهم مركب تركستان الدي جاي
08
من
البصره
و ايضاً سيمشي الآن الى
مارسيليا
و حقيقة ان
09
مينةالاسكندريه
هي شي فاخر و لطيف و كثير كبير .
10
فطلعنا من المينة و صرنا بالبحر و مركبنا للغاية كبير يشيل تقريب
11
٥٠٠٠ تن و له الحمد شاحن و ما عمال يلعب مثل الدي جينا
12
به من
بيروت
الى
پورت سعيد
و ممشانا كثير لطيف
13
و ما نحس بانزعاج قطعياً . هنا تصادقنا مع واحد افرنساوي
14
اسمه
مسيو شارترين
و مدامته الدي هو متوضف في سكة الحديد
15
بالقاهره
و ادمي طيب معنا مقدار ٣٠ عبري فقط بالاول و ثاني
16
درجة. هنا شيء واحد ليس مليح و هو الأكل كثير فقير و ما يعطون
17
- هدا كان الغروب فقط لكن بالنهار اكثر يعطون اكل مقدار٤ مرات لكن الغروب فقط اكل بسيط
غير جنسين اكل بسيط. بعد العشاء الدي كان ساعه -,٦ غروب
18
طلعت على سطح المركب و القمر كان في عشره منها و كان يعطي
19
نور لطيف على هدا البحر الكبير العرمرم . الوقت هنا بارد جداً
20
و فرق عظيم بين
القاهره
و هنا و الغيم هنا مثل ايام الشتى .
21
حزيران ١٢
اليوم صبح البحر مخيف و مزعج لكن ليس
22
كثير و له علامات يكثرو انا كثير خائف منه لأنه
23
يأديني . المركب كبير جداً و ما بها غير حمل قليل
24
بعد الظهر
قربنا على سواحل
اليونان
و الهواء
Page 092
01
هنا كثر و المركب بدي يلعب ازود و انا بدت نفسي ايضأ تلعب
02
و صحتي تغيرت العصر فتنا عن بعد جزائر
الـIonian Islands
03
و المركب لم يزل يكثر بلعبه و انا كدلك حتى الغروب لما جيت اقعد
04
على ميز لعبت نفسي و نزلت في القمره من دون اْخدان
05
لقمه و هنا كيفي كثير تغير و نفسي بدت تلعب ازود و انطرحت
06
على الفراش و بديت استفرغ من دون بطاله .
07
حزيران ١٣
هده الليله قضيتها من اشق الليالي في عمري
08
كله و لحد الآن ما قاسيت هكدا عداب الذي لم ازل اقاسيه
09
لحد الآن و انا متروك مثل السمكه على الفراش من لعبان
10
المركب الملعون و استفرغت بالليل مقدار ١٥ مرة و كدلك الى
11
الآن استفرغ و البحر هايج جداً و انا احس رأسي
12
يقلع من مكانه وصفوا لي ان اطلع فوق السطح لكن
13
كان اتعس اخر الى
الغروب
انا اجر عداب الشهداء
14
و هده اول مرة حسيت بهدا شي و الله يساعد من يجري برأسه
15
هكدا شيء . الى
الليل
انا على حاله واحده و للغاية ضعفت و ما
16
بقي بي قوه امشي و خفت لئلا هده الليله تكون مثل السابقه
17
فارسلنا على الحكيم و اعطاني دواء النوم لكن لله الحمد هنا البحر
18
قل هيجانه .
19
حزيران ١٤
هده الليلة نمت مليح لكن سكران من الضعف
20
و من قلت الأكل و من اول البارحه الى الآن ما اكلت شي
21
قطعياً فبما اليوم نصل
برنديزي
لزم احضر اغراضي لتركان
22
المركب و البحر الملعون الدي صرت اكرهه مثل الشيطان
23
و اتمنى مشي البر بالف قاط احسن . فبعد ان شربت
Page 093
01
قليل من الجاي بدلت هدومي لميت اغراضي و انا هلكان
02
من الضعف الكلي و ما عندي قوة ادب قدمي
فساعه ٧
ايضاً
03
المركب الملتعن بدي يلعب و البحر كدلك هاج فلا حول و لا
04
قوة الا بالله العلي العظيم . و انا مع كل ضعفي بدت نفسي
05
برنديزي Brindisi
كدلك تتخربط و لولا ان
برنديزي
تبعد من هنا ساعتين
06
حقاً اني كنت اموت لا محاله فقعدت على الميز و المركب
07
يلعب و يروح و يجي اخيراً هده كانت منطرف قد قربنا الى
08
سواحل
ايتاليا
اي
برنديزي
فساعه -,٨
دخل المركب الى
المينة
09
و سكن نوعاً ما فقدمنا على الجرف
ساعه ٩,١٠
اي على الـ
Quai
10
و وضعوا الدوسه و خرجنا من المركب و انا فرحان على مفارقتي
11
البحر لكن محصور على ضعف مزاجي الكلي و جميع صحت التي
12
حصلتها في الطريق قد ضاعت هنا في يوم واحد و ليله .
برنديزي
13
هي تشبه قليل
پورت سعيد
لكن جميع اوادمها ايتاليان
14
و بلد ليس كبير لكن على ترتيب
اوربا
. فكان املنا ان
15
نمشي من هنا حالاً بعد وصولنا لكن لما سألنا على اترين
16
الدي يروح الى
ناپولي
قالوا بأنه مشي قبل ٥ دقائق
17
و يوجد واحد اخر الى
Foggia
اي نصف درب
ناپولي
18
و الدي يمشي
ساعه ١,١٠
بعد الظهر
فاختصبنا ان ننتظر لذلك
19
الوقت .
فساعه ١
بان الترين فاخدنا اسبابنا و رحنا
20
استأجرنا مكان في ثاني درجة . هنا في
ايتاليا
يوجد رسم
21
على صناديق المسافرين اي بالوزن و اخدوا على صندوقينا ١٧ فرنك
22
اجره الى
ناپولي
رأساً .
ساعه ١,١٥
سافرنا من
برنديزي
23
في سكة الحديد رأحون نبات في
Foggia
بلد صغيرة
Page 094
01
لأن الدرب رأساً الى
ناپولي
من هنا بعيد جداً و ازود من ١٥ ساعه فوصلنا بـ
02
1,33
S. Vito D'Otranto
left
1,35
=
2,5
Carovigno
left
2,8
=
03
Ostouni
2,27
left
2,40
=
Cisternion
2,55
left
3
=
Fazano
3,15
04
left
3,25
=
Monopoli
3,42
left
3,50
=
Polignanio
4,7
left
4,10
=
05
Mola
4,30
left
4,33
=
Noicattaro
4,45
left
4,57
=
Bori
5,15
06
left
5,30
= these three latter stations are very large + their
07
towns are also big.
New station
5,50
left
6,5
=
Molfetta
6,11
08
left
6,15
=
Biceglia
6,30
left
6,33
=
Trani
6,42
left
7,28
=
09
Barletta
7,20
left
7,28
=
Ofantino
7,44
left
7,46
= from
10
Brindisi
to here we were going alongside the sea but
11
now tooked the desert.
Cirgnola
8,15
left
8,20
=
Ortonova
12
8,45
left
8,47
= arrived @
9,10
Fogia
13
فهنا وصلنا
بعد الغروب
و كان قد اظلم الليل لكن النور الكهرباي
14
و الكاز كان بالدروب فتركنا الترين و اخدنا عربه و رحنا مع فرد آدمي
15
الى محل ننام به فوصلنا و هدا المكان يبان ليس جيد فاخدنا اوضة
16
و امرنا بأكل و انا لم ازل ضعيف و ما عندي خلق فبعد ما تعشينا
17
نمنا و هدا المكان يسموه
Albergo di Villa di Napoli
.
18
حزيران ١٥
قمنا صباح اي
ساعه ٥
لأن الترين يمشي
19
من هنا الى
ناپولي
ساعه ٦,١٥
فاسرعنا بالتحضير و اعطينا حق
20
Foggia
المكان ٧ فرنكات و بعد ما شربنا قليل من الحليب
21
رحنا الى
المحطة
و ركبنا بالأترين الدي يروح رأساً الى
ناپولي
22
و من دون جملة وقوف و اسمه الـ
Expresse
مشينا
23
من
Foggia
ساعه
6,15
.
Bovino
6,52
left
7,2
=
Page 095
01
Savignano
7,37
left
7,40
=
Pianerottola
7,50
L
7,57
=
02
passed a long tunnel for 6 minutes,
Ariano
8,00
L
8,3
=
03
Montegalvo
8,20
left
8,23
=
Apice-Argengelo
8,40
L
8,42
04
Ponte-Valentino
8,49
L
8,50
=
Benevento
8,55
L
9,5
=
05
Casalduni Ponte
9,23
l
9,25
=
Solopaga
9,35
l
9,37
=
06
Terese Cereto
9,42
l
9,45
=
Frasso-Dugenta
9,55
l
9,58
=
07
here we passed under a bridge of 3 stages.
08
ناپولي Napoli
Madoloni
10,13
l
10,15
=
Caserta
10,25
l
10,35
=
09
Aversa
10,52
l
10,55
=
Fratemajoregroma
11,0
l
11,3
=
10
Afragola
11,8
l
11,10
= Arrived
Napoli
11,15
11
فقدمنا رويداً رويداً على
ناپولي
الشهيره و من
Foggia
الى
12
هنا كنا نمشي بين الجبال اللطيفه و المخضره و لها منظر للغاية
13
جميل فبعد ما وصلنا
المحطة
كرينا عربه و اخدنا اغراضنا و رحنا
14
كرينا لنا اوضة في هوتيل اسمه
Pension Suisse
15
لكنه حقير و وسخ و تعاملنا معه على ١٨ فرنك يومياً . فبما يوجد
16
عندي صديق اتكاتب معه بشأن الابوال كتبت له من
17
برنديزي
كتاب حتى يجي للمحطة يستقبلني لكن بوصولي
18
ما شفته و اظن ما وصله كتابي فبعد ما خلصنا الفطور
19
طلعنا خارج حتى نتفرج على البلد التي هي زريفه مثل ما
20
لازم و بها عمارات و منتزهات التي ما شفناها بعد
21
و كدلك الصرايات و التياتروات هي على البحر و موقعها
22
حسن و بها خلق كثير اي ٦٠٠,٠٠٠ نفس و خصوصاً هده
23
الايام
السلطانHumberto
و ولده مع امرأة
Page 096
01
ولده هم هنا و جميع البلد و الاسواق و الصرايات مزوقه بالورود
02
وغير اشياء و حقيقة ان
ناپولي
هي جنة فبعد ما درنا بالبلد
03
عجبني اروح ادور على صديقي لاننا موجودين وحدنا هنا و ما نعرف
04
ناپولي Napoli
احد فعالجنا مع كل تعب و لقينا مكانه في درب طويل و اسمه
05
Via Chiaja
نمره ٢٠ فطلعت لعند اوضة و دقيت الجرس
06
فخرجت امرأة و قالت لي بانه ليس بالبيت لكن في اوفيسه و يرجع
07
ساعه ٨
بعد الغروب فكتبت له ورقة و قلت له بأني وصلت
08
ناپولي
و مشتاق اشوفه و اعطيته ادريسي و حنيت عليه
09
بالمجي عندي في اقرب وقت فللحال الامرأة جابت لي ورقه
10
قد كتبها
مسيو D'Ovidio
صديقي يقول بها بانه ما
11
يعرف متى اشرف
ناپولي
و قد وصله مكتوبي من
القاهره
فقط
12
و طلب مني في تسكرته ان اوضح له ادريسي فحقيقة فرحت
13
بذلك و عدرته على عدم مجيه للمحطه لان ما وصله مكتوبي
14
من
برنديزي
. فرجعنا من الشارع الى هوتيلنا لننتظر
15
مجي
مسيو D'Ovidio
فما لبثنا ساعه و ادا واحد يدق
16
باب الاوضة ففتحت و ادا
D'Ovidio
بعينه فتسالمت
17
معه و هو كدلك و قدمته للوالدين و كثير فرح على مجينا و استعدر
18
كونه اعتاق و قال الان امرائته ارسلت له تسكرتي و مكتوبي
19
معاً الدي ارسلته من
برنديزي
و الدي وصل معنا في الاترين
20
فبعد الحكي الطويل قدم نفسه لنا مثل صديق تام و قال
21
بانه واقف لنا بالخدمه في كل ما نريد هنا و انه سيروح يتعشى
22
و بعده يرجع يأخدنا لنروح ندور بالليل في مكانات
ناپولي
اللطيفه
23
فتعشينا و بعده اتى
مسيو ديـﭭيديو
و طلعنا نجول في مكانات
Page 097
01
الفاخره و الناس تعمال تنفش مثل الدود و العربات تروح و تجي
02
ناپولي Napoli
و مرينا على اي شيء نتفرج فرحنا اولاً نحو
الـ Teatro S. Carlo
03
و ثم الى
الـ Galleria
و ثم الى
Palais Royal
و ثم على جانب البحر
04
و قبال جبل
Vesuve
الدي عمال يزوع و نقدر نشوف
05
النار مغطى على الجبل و بالحقيقة ما اعرف ماذا اقول على
ناپولي
06
و على ونساتها فبعد ساعتين رجعنا الى الهوتيل.
07
حزيران ١٦
صباح لطيف و هنا الوقت طيب و حر ابد ما
08
يوجد . البارحة اعتمدنا مع
مسيو دوﭭيديو
ان يجي يأخدنا
ساعه ١٠
09
و نروح ندور دائر
ناپولي
في كاروسه .
 فرجعنا
ساعه -,٨
الى التياترو و انتظرناه هناك الى
15
ان اتى فدخلنا و قعدنا و انا تعجبت على هدا المدخل و المشاهده
16
الجميله فبدوا باللعب و كانوا مقدار ١٠٠٠ نفس داخل يسمعون و كانوا
17
يعملون الروايه على ترتيب الـ
Orchestra
و كانت الموسيقه
18
تدق و تعاون اصواتهم فحقيقة المنظر كان خشوعي
19
جداً و بعده عملوا بالو الدي وقف اعين جميع الحاضرين
20
وصفقوا لهم بنوع الاكرام فما قدرت تخلص الروايه قبل
ساعه
21
بعد نصف الليل
فخرجنا من التياترو و توادعت مع صديقي و قال
22
بانه غداً يجي يودعني قبل ممشاي لأن الاترين
23
يتحرك
ساعه ٨,١٥
صباحاً .
 فبما يوجد
11
عندي مكتوب توصيه من
ابناوساني بطرس
من
بغداد
الى اخيه
12
هنا
جبرائيل
في
بروبكندا
Propaganda: Branch of the Catholic Church entrusted with expanding Catholicism and of managing Church affairs in non-Catholic countries. This branch of the Church operated in non-Catholic Europe, the Middle East, the Americas, and elsewhere. A few years after Alexander’s travels, it expanded its operations under the direction of Pope Pious X.
حبيت ان اشوفه فرحنا الى
13
الـ Propaganda
و شفنا بالباب كم قس كلداني و سرياني
14
و بالتصادف شفت عند خروج التلاميد للتنزه
ميخائيلبن
15
نازو
من اهل
بغداد
فسلمت عليه و فرحت كثير لما شفت ابن
16
وطنا و اما عن
جبرائيل اوساني
فقالوا لي بانه مشغول الآن
17
و غداً بعد الظهر يكون بطال فاعطيت الكتاب الى
ميخائيل
18
ليسلمه اياه و رجعنا عند الغروب للهوتيل و بعده رحنا
19
تعشينا في
الـ
Restaurant الدي هو في
Piazza Colona
20
و هنا سمعنا الموسيقه تدق مع العسكر الاتليان و كان جم غفير
21
من الناس يروحون و يجون في هده الفضوة التي بكبر
22
الفين دراع طول و عرض
فساعه -,٩
رجعنا الى موضعنا .
Page 101
01
حزيران ١*٩١
قمت صباح و الوقت مغيم و ممطر قليل بعد ان شربنا الجاي
02
و بدلنا هدومنا رحت مع
الوالد
عند
بادريه الدومينيكان
لأن
03
عندنا مكاتيب توصيه لهم من عند
القاصد الخير
الدي في
الموصل
04
اخيراً لقينا المكان و هو في
Piazza Tratone
فدخلنا
05
رومية Roma
و اعطينا الكارت الى بادريه بواب فرجع و قال بأن
بادري
06
الجنرال
مشغول و ما يقبل احد فحقيقة كثير انهضمنا من
07
دلك و عرفنا يوجد غلط فقلنا له هودا مكتوب من القاصد
08
له اعطيه اليه و هودا اخر الى
البادري
الـ Procureur
09
ايضاً اعطيه و نحن نسلم عليك فقال الأحسن انتظروا لارجع
10
لكم الجواب فرجع بعد ١٠ دقائق و قال تفضلوا و اخدنا و رحنا
11
الى الدير الكبير الى
البادري
الـ Procureur
و اسمه
12
Père Cromier
فاستقبلنا بكل استرحاب و قد اتاه
13
خبر عن مجينا فبعد الحكي الطويل قال يمكن اقدر اروح
14
معكم الى
الرئيس
لأن جينا نطلب من الرئيس مكتوب
15
توصيه الى
ﭭينا
فرحنا عند
رئيس الجنرال
و اسمه
Père
Père Bodin
16
Bodin